I did it that way for years , I never used a flash light I just looked into the front of the scope. I saved a bit of time not using a light and both hands are free. I am not using rifles any more since I turned 82.
Your plumb line isn't straight level. It is straight plumb. That's why it is called a plumb line. Level is horizontal. Plumb is vertical. Plumb is perpendicular to level as vertical is perpendicular to horizontal. It might be more accurate to title this video "plumbing a scope using a plumb line" Since the reticle is manufactured with the vertical and horizontal perpendicular, leveling is a byproduct of plumbing. Nice video. A final check might be to sight in on a plumb line at 40 yards. If you are holding your rifle plumb, and not canted, the vertical of the reticle should cover the plumb line top to bottom. If you can't stand straight and hold your rifle plumb, what's the point of all these adjustments?
You are pretty close here but you are missing an enormous step making this whole video useless. Your rifle did NOT stay vertical when you installed it. It absolutely moved when you installed the rings and scope. You level the rifle with the scope installed and then level the reticle. All you did here was level the reticle to gravity NOT the rifle.
The concept as I understand it is... level the reticle to an anti-cant bubble (or other device). Otherwise, leveling anything that excludes the reticle/anti-device combination does not ensure cant has been discounted. If no anti-level device is installed, then there is no way to ensure that cant is not being introduced in the act of aiming. Using a "tall-target" at the range to verify the set-up ensures the anti-cant procedure was successful.
@@BNatoAk Someone on the internet we'll call "Mallninja A" came up with this procedure and it spread like wildfire within the community. Unless you are dealing with a $30 Walmart scope they are CNC manufactured and the elevation turret cap will be perfectly flat and level. You can safely and accurately use that to level off of along with the level on your barrel and or PIc mounted level. Another "flaw" is everyone says to mount the 1913 mount to the forward position of the slot. What happens if you drop your rifle or set it down a little rough or "less than gentle"? That's right it moves to the rear of the slot. When properly torqued it will have more tendency to move from rough handling or a drop than it will under recoil. People don't think these thing through when they jump online and flap their gums about a subject. Worse yet, correct you and tell you that YOU are wrong! I have been doing this in a huge way for 41 years. I don't think I am wrong at all. Even funnier when you point out "this must be the way" mentality is irrelevant because the 1913 Pic rail was only invented in 1992. What did we do prior to that? It makes all your 25 - 30 year old lads claims bogus is what it does! ua-cam.com/video/srrYlR8n1vI/v-deo.html Be well!
If you shoulder the rifle 90° to the right, on it's side and still level the scope this way, the level of the rifle means jack shit, because the bullet exits the barrel perfectly centered, all it's being affected by is gravity. The rotation of the barrel doesn't affect the flight path. So when you level the scope this way, you can perfectly adjust the elevation on the scope to zero it at whatever distance you want and shoot the rifle holding it sideways.
The only issue with using that method is it’s not 100% accurate. The reticle can be canted inside the scope and leveling off of the flat underneath will straighten only the scope tube. This method provides consistent accuracy because your projecting the reticle on to the wall and using a weighted line. Gravity holds it straight. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
I use a plumb line too but I just look through the scope to line up the vertical cross hair.
I put a white piece of cardboard behind the string and it makes it really clear, and easy to see, and get the plumb bob still.
That's cool .thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I did it that way for years , I never used a flash light I just looked into the front of the scope. I saved a bit of time not using a light and both hands are free. I am not using rifles any more since I turned 82.
Beautiful video thanks!
Going to try this. Thanks!
Np! If you haven’t please subscribe
To help you out next time to keep you line from moving fill a coffee can 3/4 with water & put your pulm bob in the water
Thanks I’ll try it!
Then put it in the freezer for 48 hours.
Amazing tutorial 🙌 thank you so much 🎯
Your welcome! Thanks for watching and if you haven’t please subscribe!
I upgraded from a blumb line to a cross laser level. But everything else is the same. No more swinging line.
I too have done such. Works very well
YOU ROCK...🤟
Thank you!
THANK YOU!
No problem!
All is for naught unless your 100% sure the eye box is EXACTLY where you need it to be.
Eyebox has nothing to do with leveling the scope.
Your plumb line isn't straight level. It is straight plumb. That's why it is called a plumb line. Level is horizontal. Plumb is vertical. Plumb is perpendicular to level as vertical is perpendicular to horizontal. It might be more accurate to title this video "plumbing a scope using a plumb line" Since the reticle is manufactured with the vertical and horizontal perpendicular, leveling is a byproduct of plumbing. Nice video. A final check might be to sight in on a plumb line at 40 yards. If you are holding your rifle plumb, and not canted, the vertical of the reticle should cover the plumb line top to bottom. If you can't stand straight and hold your rifle plumb, what's the point of all these adjustments?
lol you are looking to be parallel with your plumb line not perpendicular
add tie lock & good to go
You are pretty close here but you are missing an enormous step making this whole video useless. Your rifle did NOT stay vertical when you installed it. It absolutely moved when you installed the rings and scope. You level the rifle with the scope installed and then level the reticle. All you did here was level the reticle to gravity NOT the rifle.
Good video but I was thinking the same thing.............. I ALWAYS level the rifle with the scope mounted.
The concept as I understand it is... level the reticle to an anti-cant bubble (or other device). Otherwise, leveling anything that excludes the reticle/anti-device combination does not ensure cant has been discounted. If no anti-level device is installed, then there is no way to ensure that cant is not being introduced in the act of aiming. Using a "tall-target" at the range to verify the set-up ensures the anti-cant procedure was successful.
@@malcolmgary1086 correct, he didn't level scope. There cheap, almost as cheap as a plumb bob.
@@BNatoAk
Someone on the internet we'll call "Mallninja A" came up with this procedure and it spread like wildfire within the community. Unless you are dealing with a $30 Walmart scope they are CNC manufactured and the elevation turret cap will be perfectly flat and level. You can safely and accurately use that to level off of along with the level on your barrel and or PIc mounted level. Another "flaw" is everyone says to mount the 1913 mount to the forward position of the slot. What happens if you drop your rifle or set it down a little rough or "less than gentle"? That's right it moves to the rear of the slot. When properly torqued it will have more tendency to move from rough handling or a drop than it will under recoil. People don't think these thing through when they jump online and flap their gums about a subject. Worse yet, correct you and tell you that YOU are wrong! I have been doing this in a huge way for 41 years. I don't think I am wrong at all. Even funnier when you point out "this must be the way" mentality is irrelevant because the 1913 Pic rail was only invented in 1992. What did we do prior to that? It makes all your 25 - 30 year old lads claims bogus is what it does!
ua-cam.com/video/srrYlR8n1vI/v-deo.html
Be well!
If you shoulder the rifle 90° to the right, on it's side and still level the scope this way, the level of the rifle means jack shit, because the bullet exits the barrel perfectly centered, all it's being affected by is gravity. The rotation of the barrel doesn't affect the flight path. So when you level the scope this way, you can perfectly adjust the elevation on the scope to zero it at whatever distance you want and shoot the rifle holding it sideways.
Table shakes badly. String swings
Parallax between the plumb line and the wall. Can't get rid of it.
Why not use an Arisaka optic leveler?
The only issue with using that method is it’s not 100% accurate. The reticle can be canted inside the scope and leveling off of the flat underneath will straighten only the scope tube. This method provides consistent accuracy because your projecting the reticle on to the wall and using a weighted line. Gravity holds it straight. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Parallel*
Your plumb line isn't plumb. How you gonna call it straight when it's swinging back and forth?
LMAO...🙄🙄