I think the alkalinity of that tank needs to be increased a little more to avoid shock during water changes but that is not the only thing that could shock the animals as you might know.
Can I put a seabae (white with purple tips) in the same tank with a rose bubble tip? I have a rock flower also which has been fine, but I’m worried about the seabae & rbt 🤔
Your watch likely houses loads of bacteria, its a lovely watch but it could come off before you wash your arm to play in the fishtank. Thanks for the video this week, still love the channel
You raise an excellent point! I like to think my obsessive hand washing has helped, but I'm sure I'm just deluding myself! I'll try my best to remember to take it off next time! Thanks for watching, the tip, and the support!
Not yet, but I'm sure it will happen eventually. The urchin that died was in a tank with all of the pieces cemented together. The Lux 90 tank has only stacked rock, but they are pretty level with the weight spread out and nothing is stacked in a tippy way. But even with that I wouldn't be surprised if one moves a bit. I'll just add some epoxy to any loose pieces to keep them in place. I've heard you can just add a few small pieces of epoxy and that can be enough.
I was just about to say that lol do you know how much outside dirt and sweat you have under the watch lol 😂 I would send a ICP test if I were you ,and also if your current Bta aren't do so hot , then why the heck would you buy more and add more to the tank, thats just so irresponsible, just saying , for someone how has been in the hobby for a while , you should %100 know that by now
So I haven't used Vibrant, but I have used Razor, and that worked well. Last time I did it I think it worked too well and I had a dinoflagellate outbreak. I'm really just trying to control it naturally this time around, but may have to resort to something like Vibrant. I actually do have a foxface, but he's in another tank and way too big. I've added a blenny since this video, so we'll see how it does! When you dose Vibrant, do you do the full dose? And for how many days? Have you ever had a cyano or dino outbreak after dosing it? Thanks for watching and your tips!
@@MyFirstFishTank I'll dose 5ml in my 65 gallon once a week if I starting seeing algae. If it it still around the 2nd week then I'll dose again and in between dosing I will adjust my feeding routine and check parameters. No cyano or dino ever. If you see signs of improvement then I wouldn't dose that 2nd week.
Didn’t you acclimate both urchins in the other tank as you said they should be close enough? I am assuming at least one parameter between the two tanks is different enough that it may have been your issue.
You are exactly right. The only issue I can think of is that the tanks are just different, so I should have drip acclimated them in different tanks. I'll definitely be doing that next time for sure!
I did do a review. Here's the link. ua-cam.com/video/q4IjPYoF2IU/v-deo.html This is auto feeders and feeding rings. I like the aquamaxx one, but it's big. I think the IM one is better. Here's the link. www.marinedepot.com/partners/idevaffiliate.php?id=102&url=3574
How old is that anemone tank in the middle. It looks like it is just maturing and may be too young for the anemones. Do you have enough matrix in your sump or the back of the tank? Those should establish and help reduce nitrates and phosphates. If you do, when you do a water change, do you rinse them in the water you took out? This was a game changer for me
Hey there, this tank has been up and running for 3-4 months at this point. I have several pieces of actual live rock from the ocean in the sump which has really helped seed the tank with beneficial bacteria and pods. I've been super heavy feeding, but so far the nutrients levels, especially the NO3 and PO4, have been relatively stable. I'm doing 25-40% water changes each week, and testing for phosphates and nitrates every other day which is helping me keep things in check. And then I'm slightly adjusting my protein skimmer and water change schedule as needed. And no, I've never rinsed the live rock out during a water change. Is that something you would recommend? Does it help keep it clean? And I'm assuming you mean rinse it in the saltwater you just pulled out right? Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@MyFirstFishTank I suffered for a year with my tank with green hair algae, bubbles.. Your rocks look like they have diatoms too. What changed for me was a few things. 1) I did vibrant which helped 2) I got a skimmer But 3) the biggest change for me was adding another bag of biomedia matrix and making sure I rinsed and washed in the water I took out of the tank. During my water change, I would dump my biomedia matrix (which I have in bags), into the water I took out and quickly dip and rinse, the water would go so brown.. And then put it back. I suspect all of the nitrates and junk is coming off. And then to top it off 4) I've added some filter floss, so diatoms are pulled. I've been going 2 weeks without water changes now and no GHA issues, so my water changes are 2 weeks now, and ATO is on standby. Worth a shot eh?
Most definitely worth a shot! This is one of the reasons I love this hobby. So many different people experimenting with different techniques to find success. It sounds like your tank has hit the sweet spot! Thanks for sharing what worked for you, I definitely appreciate it!
You could try vibrant 🤷🏻♂️ are you tanks new as I’m a big believer in tanks have t o be over 18 months old . Myself heavy 75 gallons mixed reef mag 1350 , cal435 , and trying to stable alk at 9 by dosing 12 x times on DD dosser per hour a day 🤞 you’ll get there😉 , keep the vids coming 👍😀🏴
Thanks Andrew. The fluval reef tank is a couple years old at least, and the lux 90 is about 3-4 months old at this point, so certainly still quite new. I haven't used vibrant, but I've used brightwell razor before and it worked great. I'm really just trying to figure out a way to do it 100% naturally. The tank is just so small that a tang isn't a great idea, and I could do a sea hare, but it would eat everything super fast I think and then would need a new home. I've heard about keeping magnesium up higher to help get rid of the hair algae? Any thoughts on that?
@@MyFirstFishTank no sorry not heard of that one , when I had it , I just let it go long then pulled it out with my hose on water changes . Did the trick 👍🏴😃
Ah yes, I like the fluval tank. They are sort of hard to find, but that m90 is a good size! I'll be getting rid of my M60 soon and upgrading to a 45 gallon jbj!
Really hope your watch is fully waterproof ! Have you thought of the pinch + syphon method for removing green algae by hand, especially if doing a water change?
Oh it's waterproof alright! And yes indeed, i've don't more thank think about the pinch and siphon method, but the tank has so little water, that i just can't get enough done! Plus I don't like having both my hands in the water, I end up making a huge mess! While this method is slow, it works. But boy oh boy, that hair algae is still going strong! Might have to get me a sea hare!
@@MyFirstFishTank Only place I seem to grow it is in the sump refugium trying to grow with the chaeto. Used to outcompete the chaeto until I added some additional flow. Cleanup crew + fish keep the actual tank clear and recommend people think about having some fish with actual "jobs" in the tank, not simply to look pretty.
Yeah agreed. I just added a blenny to help with the algae, but so far nothing. I've thought about a small tang, but the tank is only 24 gallons. And for clean up crew, it just seems to long for any snails or crabs to tackle it. So besides a sea hair, not sure what other cuc options I have. Any suggestions?
@@MyFirstFishTank Time and manual removal. Too many Clean Up Crew (CUC) and they'll starve afterwards, dying and producing the exact conditions to spawn a new outbreak. UV steriliser could help with free floating algae but not those established on rockwork. Even then you'd have to set the flow correctly. No experience with any other CUC other than snails and hermits. I get the impression a foxface can be better for algae control than tangs but they can grow fast so would certainly not recommend for a smallish tank. Also not a fan of buying any "temporary" animal. Comes from owning rescue dogs. Here's a thought though.. if I'm right, you do not have a sump but how about macroalgae in the actual tank. Doesn't have to be chaeto and there are several attractive types available that could be part of any display whilst competing with the hair algae for nutrients. Don't know how practical and haven't researched it at all.
Yeah, you are right on all accounts. The tank has a rear filtration chamber, and I try to let whatever nuisance algae that wants to grow back there. I'm also hesitant about temporary inhabitants, as each move is super stressful for the livestock. This tank is so finicky, because it had no algae for two years, and was verging on no nutrients, cyano outbreak, etc. Then with the addition of a couple small fish, bam, hair algae kicked it! I have a foxface in my 40 gallon tank but he is huge and likely needs a bigger home! I'm actually planning on doing a macro algae seahorse tank in the near future, so maybe I can get a jump start with some macroalgae for this tank!
okay, at 4:45 minutes into this video you say you add 5 to 6 mm of Calcium and Alkalinity a day, according the the Red Sea MyRecipe Wizard, they are recommending 7.4mm of calcium and 22.1mm of KH/Alkalinity per day! How did you come up with your measurements? I did the calculations on the Wizard for a 65 gallon Mixed Tank. Im just curious as to how you came up with your dosing schedule and if Im overdosing!?!?!
That is a great question. Okay, it's kind of a long answer, and I know there are others who will disagree with me, so be forewarned! First off, each company makes different concentrations of calcium and alkalinity, so you can't really compare between companies. Some are highly concentrated and others are not. Next up, I have used, and still use the calculators for figuring out a dose, but I only use that as a starting point. At the end of the day, each take is different, so the best way to nail in your dosing is to test at the same time everyday, and adjust as need be. I test every week, but mainly because the tanks are already relatively stable. Your tank may have a lot more coral, or a lot more growth, so it could be consuming a lot more of both. Lastly, and this is probably the most controversial part, I always try to dose equal amounts of two-part. My understanding is that it that two part was invented so you could dose equal amounts of each. But that means you have to let go of whatever CA and ALK number you have in your mind. I have found that if I dose equally, the levels will equal out, not usually where I think they are ideal, but somewhere that is okay. So I usually prioritize alkalinity, and let the calcium fall where it may. But, even after saying that, I will occasionally break my own rule, if the numbers get too out of whack. Hope that helps!
Red Banded Trochus snails crushed all of my hair algae problems in my 40 gallion and less tanks. They seem hard to come by and expensive but they are very effective.
Yeah, they are super hard to come by these days! I'm assuming you had to trip the GHA back first? I've never seen a trochus or astrea or turbo even eat the long hair algae. So what is your technique for getting it down low?
Might be time to go bare bottom! What kind of skimmer are you using? I run my light at 50% and more so on the blue side. I’ve been having great luck:) with no algae.
You know, on the fluval m60 the only thing I run is a single sponge, that's it for filtration! And it's worked great for two years until recently when I added some new fish and upped the feeding! I've thought about turning off the red and the green entirely and lowering the lights down. You'd recommend doing that?
I just think tank is to new for nems and urchins…if you are still working out your parameters it’s tricky to keep them its been a year for me and I still get a spike here and there … I lost an urchin recently.. I think the are sensitive to all swings because it happened when I started worrying about keeping my alk above 8 .. Everything was doing great at 7.5 -7.8 those extre .2 killed my favorite milleopra and my urchin
Oh, it's waterproof alright! One of those cheapy timex ironman watches. I've worn the thing for five years now I think? Almost never take it off! It's was even my hawaii snorkel companion!
oh dear keep it simple mate change your water every 2 weeks your filter pads every 3 days have good bio and re the smell use a cap full of micro fuel once a week your bio is hungry .....kis
So your hair algie issue is rom the nutrients within the rock, when using new live rock, Every tank has a hair algae bloom, called the ugly stage, theres nothing you can really do is remove by hand and let it run its course. the nutrients within the rock havent been release till now and just so happens it green hairs favorite thing to eat, SMALL carbs are best , big ones just wanna eat bigger foods and fight. in tank #2 your feeding way too much, 2 times at 2 rotations and frozen feed is plenty of food for whats in that tank. Your high Phosphates is from your Dinos. by the way bristol work keep the nitrotus from build up from within the rock work and causing nitrates to be out of control, so if you remove the natural way of cleaning the rocks inside, how are you cleaning all the build inside them? Bristol worms don't sting or bit, they are no more harmless than a regular dirt worm, they dont eat corals, they from time to time end being eaten by anemones and mushrooms if they wonder to close. Want more helpful tips like this consider subscribing to my channel, Over 10 years reefing experience. Best of luck to everyone who has a reef!
Wow, tons of great info to digest here, thanks! I'll head over and check out your channel for sure! I really appreciate you not only watching the video, but taking the time to share your tips and experience in the hobby. I'm going to digest everything you said and make changes accordingly. Thanks again!
@@MyFirstFishTank Your Welcome Sir, I Have lots of shot videos but need to be edited, Also I knew you had dynos before you even said it. Feel Free to Give Me a shout out as I can do the Same in return. I Had restarted my channel over, didn't like my old editing style. salvaged a few but I work and take care of 3 other families plus my tank, side jobs, video editing for work commercials, making my Super handyman Channel working on cars, o and not to forget house and yard cleaning...projects, the list goes on!
@@MyFirstFishTank also any time you feed make sure its all consumed un 2 minutes, fish typically stop eating after 2 minutes, unless they are older....or you have a fat fish that just wont stop lol
@@MyFirstFishTank i can’t imagine the mistakes i would be making doing a vlog. kudos to you. i’m sloooowly turning the like of the channel, into a love? 😊😂.
I just think tank is to new for nems and urchins…if you are still working out your parameters it’s tricky to keep them its been a year for me and I still get a spike here and there … I lost an urchin recently.. I think the are sensitive to all swings because it happened when I started worrying about keeping my alk above 8 .. Everything was doing great at 7.5 -7.8 those extre .2 killed my favorite milleopra and my urchin
You mean Your brand new sea urchin. That is not an anemone.
I think the alkalinity of that tank needs to be increased a little more to avoid shock during water changes but that is not the only thing that could shock the animals as you might know.
Matt if you ever sell that enocore I call dibs lol glad weekly weekly videos are back ! Keep up the good and hard work
Deal!
Can I put a seabae (white with purple tips) in the same tank with a rose bubble tip? I have a rock flower also which has been fine, but I’m worried about the seabae & rbt 🤔
Super Healthy compared too the one that's Dead. Ha Ha, Nice Mathew.
Not sure if it would help or not, but I like to use a toothbrush to help remove the GHA.
I've done that before as well! Some people tell me that they don't like to do that because then it just spreads gha throughout the tank... thoughts?
I think there's a chance of that with any method. You could scrub a bit but have a small siphon near the base to get any escapees
Yeah, that's probably a good compromise. Maybe I could enlist my wife or daughter to hold the siphon while I scrub!
Teamwork makes dreamwork!
:-)
Your watch likely houses loads of bacteria, its a lovely watch but it could come off before you wash your arm to play in the fishtank. Thanks for the video this week, still love the channel
You raise an excellent point! I like to think my obsessive hand washing has helped, but I'm sure I'm just deluding myself! I'll try my best to remember to take it off next time! Thanks for watching, the tip, and the support!
Have you had any issues with your Urchins knocking over your rocks? I was wanting to add one to my tank, but my rocks are just stacked, not epoxy.
Not yet, but I'm sure it will happen eventually. The urchin that died was in a tank with all of the pieces cemented together. The Lux 90 tank has only stacked rock, but they are pretty level with the weight spread out and nothing is stacked in a tippy way. But even with that I wouldn't be surprised if one moves a bit. I'll just add some epoxy to any loose pieces to keep them in place. I've heard you can just add a few small pieces of epoxy and that can be enough.
@@MyFirstFishTank Good to know. Thank you.
Hey bud a pretty professional reefer little tip rings an watches carry a lot of alkaloids an poisons for reef especially
You are the second person to mention that and I'd never even considered it before! Time to take those things off! Thanks!
I was just about to say that lol do you know how much outside dirt and sweat you have under the watch lol 😂 I would send a ICP test if I were you ,and also if your current Bta aren't do so hot , then why the heck would you buy more and add more to the tank, thats just so irresponsible, just saying , for someone how has been in the hobby for a while , you should %100 know that by now
Have you tried dosing Vibrant? Add in a foxface to help with the GHA. I dose vibrant once every few months when I start seeing GHA or BA
So I haven't used Vibrant, but I have used Razor, and that worked well. Last time I did it I think it worked too well and I had a dinoflagellate outbreak. I'm really just trying to control it naturally this time around, but may have to resort to something like Vibrant. I actually do have a foxface, but he's in another tank and way too big. I've added a blenny since this video, so we'll see how it does! When you dose Vibrant, do you do the full dose? And for how many days? Have you ever had a cyano or dino outbreak after dosing it? Thanks for watching and your tips!
@@MyFirstFishTank I'll dose 5ml in my 65 gallon once a week if I starting seeing algae. If it it still around the 2nd week then I'll dose again and in between dosing I will adjust my feeding routine and check parameters. No cyano or dino ever. If you see signs of improvement then I wouldn't dose that 2nd week.
Okay, makes sense. Seems like doing a lower dose less frequently is a good technique! Thanks!
Didn’t you acclimate both urchins in the other tank as you said they should be close enough? I am assuming at least one parameter between the two tanks is different enough that it may have been your issue.
You are exactly right. The only issue I can think of is that the tanks are just different, so I should have drip acclimated them in different tanks. I'll definitely be doing that next time for sure!
@@MyFirstFishTank love your videos btw
Thanks, you are too kind! :-)
I was looking at that feeding ring on 60 is good have you done review of it? Its alot bigger than I thought.
I did do a review. Here's the link. ua-cam.com/video/q4IjPYoF2IU/v-deo.html This is auto feeders and feeding rings. I like the aquamaxx one, but it's big. I think the IM one is better. Here's the link. www.marinedepot.com/partners/idevaffiliate.php?id=102&url=3574
How old is that anemone tank in the middle. It looks like it is just maturing and may be too young for the anemones. Do you have enough matrix in your sump or the back of the tank? Those should establish and help reduce nitrates and phosphates. If you do, when you do a water change, do you rinse them in the water you took out? This was a game changer for me
Hey there, this tank has been up and running for 3-4 months at this point. I have several pieces of actual live rock from the ocean in the sump which has really helped seed the tank with beneficial bacteria and pods. I've been super heavy feeding, but so far the nutrients levels, especially the NO3 and PO4, have been relatively stable. I'm doing 25-40% water changes each week, and testing for phosphates and nitrates every other day which is helping me keep things in check. And then I'm slightly adjusting my protein skimmer and water change schedule as needed. And no, I've never rinsed the live rock out during a water change. Is that something you would recommend? Does it help keep it clean? And I'm assuming you mean rinse it in the saltwater you just pulled out right? Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@MyFirstFishTank I suffered for a year with my tank with green hair algae, bubbles.. Your rocks look like they have diatoms too. What changed for me was a few things.
1) I did vibrant which helped
2) I got a skimmer
But 3) the biggest change for me was adding another bag of biomedia matrix and making sure I rinsed and washed in the water I took out of the tank. During my water change, I would dump my biomedia matrix (which I have in bags), into the water I took out and quickly dip and rinse, the water would go so brown.. And then put it back. I suspect all of the nitrates and junk is coming off.
And then to top it off 4) I've added some filter floss, so diatoms are pulled. I've been going 2 weeks without water changes now and no GHA issues, so my water changes are 2 weeks now, and ATO is on standby. Worth a shot eh?
Most definitely worth a shot! This is one of the reasons I love this hobby. So many different people experimenting with different techniques to find success. It sounds like your tank has hit the sweet spot! Thanks for sharing what worked for you, I definitely appreciate it!
@@MyFirstFishTank no problem, thanks for creating videos on UA-cam
You could try vibrant 🤷🏻♂️ are you tanks new as I’m a big believer in tanks have t o be over 18 months old . Myself heavy 75 gallons mixed reef mag 1350 , cal435 , and trying to stable alk at 9 by dosing 12 x times on DD dosser per hour a day 🤞 you’ll get there😉 , keep the vids coming 👍😀🏴
Thanks Andrew. The fluval reef tank is a couple years old at least, and the lux 90 is about 3-4 months old at this point, so certainly still quite new. I haven't used vibrant, but I've used brightwell razor before and it worked great. I'm really just trying to figure out a way to do it 100% naturally. The tank is just so small that a tang isn't a great idea, and I could do a sea hare, but it would eat everything super fast I think and then would need a new home. I've heard about keeping magnesium up higher to help get rid of the hair algae? Any thoughts on that?
@@MyFirstFishTank no sorry not heard of that one , when I had it , I just let it go long then pulled it out with my hose on water changes . Did the trick 👍🏴😃
I always dump my old water on the side of my house where I don’t want any weeds to grow, it works
Ha, for sure! love it!
Sorry I dose Red Sea A B C mag 2ml , calc 8ml and alk 22ml hope this helps 👍😃🏴
Hi Matt! I like your Fluval m60 tank! It looks really good, I have a Fluval m90! 😀👍👍
Ah yes, I like the fluval tank. They are sort of hard to find, but that m90 is a good size! I'll be getting rid of my M60 soon and upgrading to a 45 gallon jbj!
Really hope your watch is fully waterproof ! Have you thought of the pinch + syphon method for removing green algae by hand, especially if doing a water change?
Oh it's waterproof alright! And yes indeed, i've don't more thank think about the pinch and siphon method, but the tank has so little water, that i just can't get enough done! Plus I don't like having both my hands in the water, I end up making a huge mess! While this method is slow, it works. But boy oh boy, that hair algae is still going strong! Might have to get me a sea hare!
@@MyFirstFishTank Only place I seem to grow it is in the sump refugium trying to grow with the chaeto. Used to outcompete the chaeto until I added some additional flow. Cleanup crew + fish keep the actual tank clear and recommend people think about having some fish with actual "jobs" in the tank, not simply to look pretty.
Yeah agreed. I just added a blenny to help with the algae, but so far nothing. I've thought about a small tang, but the tank is only 24 gallons. And for clean up crew, it just seems to long for any snails or crabs to tackle it. So besides a sea hair, not sure what other cuc options I have. Any suggestions?
@@MyFirstFishTank Time and manual removal. Too many Clean Up Crew (CUC) and they'll starve afterwards, dying and producing the exact conditions to spawn a new outbreak. UV steriliser could help with free floating algae but not those established on rockwork. Even then you'd have to set the flow correctly. No experience with any other CUC other than snails and hermits. I get the impression a foxface can be better for algae control than tangs but they can grow fast so would certainly not recommend for a smallish tank. Also not a fan of buying any "temporary" animal. Comes from owning rescue dogs. Here's a thought though.. if I'm right, you do not have a sump but how about macroalgae in the actual tank. Doesn't have to be chaeto and there are several attractive types available that could be part of any display whilst competing with the hair algae for nutrients. Don't know how practical and haven't researched it at all.
Yeah, you are right on all accounts. The tank has a rear filtration chamber, and I try to let whatever nuisance algae that wants to grow back there. I'm also hesitant about temporary inhabitants, as each move is super stressful for the livestock. This tank is so finicky, because it had no algae for two years, and was verging on no nutrients, cyano outbreak, etc. Then with the addition of a couple small fish, bam, hair algae kicked it! I have a foxface in my 40 gallon tank but he is huge and likely needs a bigger home! I'm actually planning on doing a macro algae seahorse tank in the near future, so maybe I can get a jump start with some macroalgae for this tank!
okay, at 4:45 minutes into this video you say you add 5 to 6 mm of Calcium and Alkalinity a day, according the the Red Sea MyRecipe Wizard, they are recommending 7.4mm of calcium and 22.1mm of KH/Alkalinity per day! How did you come up with your measurements? I did the calculations on the Wizard for a 65 gallon Mixed Tank. Im just curious as to how you came up with your dosing schedule and if Im overdosing!?!?!
That is a great question. Okay, it's kind of a long answer, and I know there are others who will disagree with me, so be forewarned! First off, each company makes different concentrations of calcium and alkalinity, so you can't really compare between companies. Some are highly concentrated and others are not. Next up, I have used, and still use the calculators for figuring out a dose, but I only use that as a starting point. At the end of the day, each take is different, so the best way to nail in your dosing is to test at the same time everyday, and adjust as need be. I test every week, but mainly because the tanks are already relatively stable. Your tank may have a lot more coral, or a lot more growth, so it could be consuming a lot more of both. Lastly, and this is probably the most controversial part, I always try to dose equal amounts of two-part. My understanding is that it that two part was invented so you could dose equal amounts of each. But that means you have to let go of whatever CA and ALK number you have in your mind. I have found that if I dose equally, the levels will equal out, not usually where I think they are ideal, but somewhere that is okay. So I usually prioritize alkalinity, and let the calcium fall where it may. But, even after saying that, I will occasionally break my own rule, if the numbers get too out of whack. Hope that helps!
Red Banded Trochus snails crushed all of my hair algae problems in my 40 gallion and less tanks. They seem hard to come by and expensive but they are very effective.
Yeah, they are super hard to come by these days! I'm assuming you had to trip the GHA back first? I've never seen a trochus or astrea or turbo even eat the long hair algae. So what is your technique for getting it down low?
@@MyFirstFishTank I should have been more clear, I did some manual removal as you did.
I figured as much! Thanks for clarifying!
I have an urchin just like that had the same issue lost al spins about month ago still going and looks like it going back it’s spins
Well that's awesome. I heard that urchins can grow back spines!
What tank? is that you have in the middle the big one looks so nice
That tank is the Lux 90 from Reef Octopus. www.marinedepot.com/partners/idevaffiliate.php?id=102&url=3179 It's a super slick tank!
Might be time to go bare bottom! What kind of skimmer are you using? I run my light at 50% and more so on the blue side. I’ve been having great luck:) with no algae.
You know, on the fluval m60 the only thing I run is a single sponge, that's it for filtration! And it's worked great for two years until recently when I added some new fish and upped the feeding! I've thought about turning off the red and the green entirely and lowering the lights down. You'd recommend doing that?
Hi Matthew. Nice video. How often do you do water changes?
Hi Dwight, thanks! Since setting up the gallery I'm doing a water change every week.
Love your videos…but you keep calling the urchins…anenomes…lol sorry you lost one. I’m getting one today…first one ever. Keep the videos coming.
For the small tank a hector gobie could work out well. They tackle hair algae well. They have them at liveaquaria often
Really! I'm going to go check them out now! Thanks Michael!
@@MyFirstFishTank they're kind of bland but one of the few tang gang replacements for a small tank I've found
Just added one to my cart! But now I need to figure out what else to buy so I can get free shipping!!! Thanks for the recommendation!
@@MyFirstFishTank glad I could help. Good luck with the free shipping hustle
You know it! :-)
Tooooothbrush and then siphon with an air hose. 🥰😍😀
Yup!!! Good advice!
I need that wrasse shirt
:-)
I just think tank is to new for nems and urchins…if you are still working out your parameters it’s tricky to keep them its been a year for me and I still get a spike here and there … I lost an urchin recently.. I think the are sensitive to all swings because it happened when I started worrying about keeping my alk above 8 .. Everything was doing great at 7.5 -7.8 those extre .2 killed my favorite milleopra and my urchin
I hope that watch is waterproof and will not rust.
Oh, it's waterproof alright! One of those cheapy timex ironman watches. I've worn the thing for five years now I think? Almost never take it off! It's was even my hawaii snorkel companion!
trochus snails might help with the hair
Yeah, for sure!
First comment love the vids
Sweet, first comment! Thanks Jake!
@@MyFirstFishTank that's dope that you responded thanks so much
The same thing happened to me with my first sea urchin, then I found out you have to drip aclimate for 30 min. 😞
Yeah, makes sense! I think my problem may have been drip acclimating in a different tank that I thought would be similar enough, but probably wasn't!
@@MyFirstFishTank sorry, hopefully the next will be ok. By the way love your videos 👍
Thanks for the support @reefervapes !
oh dear keep it simple mate change your water every 2 weeks your filter pads every 3 days have good bio and re the smell use a cap full of micro fuel once a week your bio is hungry .....kis
Is micro fuel like microbacter 7 or dr. tim's one and only? I'm assuming it's just beneficial bacteria?
You calling that urchin an anemone?
So your hair algie issue is rom the nutrients within the rock, when using new live rock, Every tank has a hair algae bloom, called the ugly stage, theres nothing you can really do is remove by hand and let it run its course. the nutrients within the rock havent been release till now and just so happens it green hairs favorite thing to eat, SMALL carbs are best , big ones just wanna eat bigger foods and fight. in tank #2 your feeding way too much, 2 times at 2 rotations and frozen feed is plenty of food for whats in that tank. Your high Phosphates is from your Dinos. by the way bristol work keep the nitrotus from build up from within the rock work and causing nitrates to be out of control, so if you remove the natural way of cleaning the rocks inside, how are you cleaning all the build inside them? Bristol worms don't sting or bit, they are no more harmless than a regular dirt worm, they dont eat corals, they from time to time end being eaten by anemones and mushrooms if they wonder to close. Want more helpful tips like this consider subscribing to my channel, Over 10 years reefing experience. Best of luck to everyone who has a reef!
Wow, tons of great info to digest here, thanks! I'll head over and check out your channel for sure! I really appreciate you not only watching the video, but taking the time to share your tips and experience in the hobby. I'm going to digest everything you said and make changes accordingly. Thanks again!
@@MyFirstFishTank Your Welcome Sir, I Have lots of shot videos but need to be edited, Also I knew you had dynos before you even said it. Feel Free to Give Me a shout out as I can do the Same in return. I Had restarted my channel over, didn't like my old editing style. salvaged a few but I work and take care of 3 other families plus my tank, side jobs, video editing for work commercials, making my Super handyman Channel working on cars, o and not to forget house and yard cleaning...projects, the list goes on!
@@MyFirstFishTank also any time you feed make sure its all consumed un 2 minutes, fish typically stop eating after 2 minutes, unless they are older....or you have a fat fish that just wont stop lol
Mixed nems and caused them to kill each other.
I hope your watch is water resistant.
It is, but somebody told me to take it off because of bad bacteria. So I do now!
mathew knows the difference between an urchin & anemone guys. lol
I do, but for some reason I keep saying nem when I mean urchin and vice versa!!!!
@@MyFirstFishTank i can’t imagine the mistakes i would be making doing a vlog. kudos to you. i’m sloooowly turning the like of the channel, into a love? 😊😂.
@@MyFirstFishTank as always, job well done teach! mr. mathew, the teacher! 🙏🏽
brooo that anemone is supposed too live so long and u killed it !! how sad too see
yeah, lame
Why do you keep calling the urchins anemones in your videos!? 😂
I don't know! It's super annoying!!! :-)
Jfyi wearing gloves makes no sense if the water just comes in through the top
True
i want to see the cat
I just think tank is to new for nems and urchins…if you are still working out your parameters it’s tricky to keep them its been a year for me and I still get a spike here and there … I lost an urchin recently.. I think the are sensitive to all swings because it happened when I started worrying about keeping my alk above 8 .. Everything was doing great at 7.5 -7.8 those extre .2 killed my favorite milleopra and my urchin