Caution! Defective 440 Source Parts! (Saving the Home Builder a Headache)
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Not all new parts are good parts. When building your big block Mopar, going to #440source is an easy option. They offer all types of big block Mopar engine parts at fair prices. It’s widely known that many of their parts are sourced from overseas.
In this video, I share which parts I’m using that were corrected before they caused an engine failure!
For more on machining and parts, check out Ed at @edsmachine93 .
Good morning Mopar Joe.
Great video.
I have to say it was nice getting to check a set of these rods.
And machine them.
I agree, the people at 440 Source are nice people and I talked to them several times on the phone and they were very nice to talk to.
You have a new job now Joe, Infomercial Joe!
Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed! Hopefully they will check out your channel.
That is a great one Ed and I hear the ring now JMJ Technical specifications advisor!
@@JustMoparJoe I believe that I do now I got to check, you got me thinking, that would cause the house to fill with smoke, TTYL and enjoy your day!
This is why I watch just Mopar Joe!
Thanks John! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
I’m glad 440 source responded the way they did and are trying to make it right.
For sure. They could have easily denied it and blamed a machinist.
That was cool that they are not denying and taking steps on their end to rectify the issue!
For sure. And they will refund or swap if you have a problem.
Great job keeping everyone informed when things like this happen Joe! When 440source hit the scene all of us were ecstatic to see an actual mopar company providing reasonably priced hot rod parts, especially with the stroker kits right up front showing those big displacements...It was like breathing new life into our possibilities. A few years in and there were a few people complaining about some head issues, but overall it seemed things were holding up pretty good. That's the thing about parts; you can't buy them one time and be good to go forever lol! Catching issues like this is so helpful, that way problems can be isolated both for safety/damage prevention on the side of the hot rodders, but also for the company to remedy it at the production end as it appears to be doing. This way their reputation doesn't get smeared, and the flow of parts can continue (win-win)! Glad they are owning the issue, and thank you for being a fair reporter of the truth and giving them (440source)a fair shake despite the problem. Honesty and Transparency go a long way! Have a great day brother :)
Thanks Ryan.The guy was very nice, and helpful on the phone. Glad they’re working out the issue. But like me, some guys collect parts for builds over several months and even years.
@@JustMoparJoe That is 100% me, Joe. I have been parts collecting for my build for more than 15 years and just like the 440 source water pump housing I mentioned, I have one of their first off the pallot and had to do a lot of work to make it right..
Fact is, I go through this with MOST parts companies!! Hell, I bought and sold/installed MOOG products for a living in the pothole capital of the country. Rochester, NY. and I would never think twice about their parts.. Until a few years back when I bought a set of TRE's for my mothers car and they came new in the box with no threads in the end!!! Then a set of bushings that had rubber so hard that I know they had to have been ancient stock they reboxed!! SMH....
Good Advice, take nothing for granted!
Cheers to 440 Source, because Doing what’s RIGHT ain’t Cheap! Holley should take lessons from them!
I know you know! Merry Christmas buddy!
My experience with 440 source I purchased a stroker kit and paid for their race balance. My engine builder and I checked and if they did in fact attempt to balance things the individual needs glasses. I guess the long and short of it is don’t trust verify everything.
Thanks Dirk. The kit I bought was always claimed to be balanced. I will make a video when Ed spins the crank on his balancer to verify.
Great info to know, Now im looking forward to seeing this 512 build!
Really close to starting on it. The coronet is almost out
As always the best of tech inspection for the home guy
Absolutely 👍🏼
Thanks Joe for this public information and announcement. I am going to use those rods in my 383 build. I will have my machine shop check them out to be sure. If I lived close to y’all which I don’t, I would be glad to use Ed’s machine shop.
Thanks Greg! 440 source made it right and checked every single rod they had. They now sell some as blemished sets. If you have some that aren’t correct, I’m sure Brandon can make them right. Mine did well in the 400 making 535 horse plus a 100 shot in the car 👍🏼
Great info Joe. Might save a lot of headaches and expense. Good customer service on 440 sources behalf to check parts over and make things right as necessary.
Thanks Terry. Merry Christmas!
@@JustMoparJoe Merry Christmas to you and your family Joe!
Joe, thanks for the heads up. I would think if your pistions have the grooves you could just run the c-clips even without the pin floating just to keep it from sliding, if your pistons don't have the grooves run buttons. That could be an easy solution to a possible problem.
Looking forward to seeing these rockers. I just missed a set of Crane adjustables yesterday on B-Bodies Only. LOL, just a minute too late. I see Manacini has these for a small block but not for a big block. Wish they would have tham made. Guess I'lll keep running the swap meets.
Thanks brother. I don’t think you can run the clips and press pin because the pin can be off center and force the clip out when it floats. I’d have to verify that.
No you can't put the keepers in.
Either press fit or full float, no in between.
It will bind up and kick out a rod bearing or worse.
Please do not skip these important steps.
Take care, Ed.
See, I learn something everyday.
Great, honest info Joe. Thanks for what you do.
Thanks brother. Merry Christmas 🎄
Thanks for the information, hope it helps a few people, it seems to be the way now you always have to make sure it's what you need, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thanks Donald! Merry Christmas
I have bushed the 440Source rods down to .990" but have never run them press fit, so THANKS for the 411!!
Bushmaster! 😂
@@JustMoparJoe Hybrid 383 with Diamond long-rod pistons!! lol
Hi Joe, I’ve been watching your channel since the very beginning and I absolutely love it. I built my first Mopar watching your channel. What I really want to see is for one of my favorite Mopar UA-camrs to do a one second upgrade video. Meaning if you have a 16 second car, what kind of upgrades would you do to make it 15 second car. And if you have a 15 second car, what kind of upgrades would make you have a 14 second car? And so on. I can’t be the only one that wants to upgrade one second at a time lol. Just wondering what that would look like. I’ve been looking for that for years, and I figured if you did a video series on that, it would be awesome.
Thanks brother! That’s an excellent idea.
Okay, now that is the coolest channel name so far!! LOL
Good to hear they are checking the rods. I am considering a set of these myself.
Yes sir. Triple check them if you’re going to push them. I would go ahead and float them. I’ve ran stock rods steel to steel for years in my other race cars.
Good morning Joe,
It's tough when you get bad parts, but at least 440 source sounds like they want to make things right. That's great to hear. Ed's, input is very valuable as well.
Sir , I pray you and yours have a very MERRY CHRISTMAS and a HAPPY NEW YEAR 😊
Bert
Thanks Bert! Merry Christmas 🎄
I'm glad you brought this to the people. I used to moderate on a pretty big Mopar site and heard way too many times, the name 440 Source used in the negative. Their rocker systems have been a big issue and dare I say, I bought one of the first 440 Source aluminum water pump housings and pumps and yes, found a big issue with them.... I know they want to put out a great product and they are trying to, but they have to have a better QC system in place. That said, I know there are thousands of their products out there that are doing fine.... Something I really want to see is a monster stroke on a 400 low deck.... I always wanted to do this with iron 902 heads. (They have more cooling or more even cooling flow but are basically the same as a 906. Port them and do big valves and let's see what can be made...
Thanks Steve. I am going to try their rockers. If they have issues, I’ll definitely report it.
I had an issue with my water pump as well.
@@dangarrison3503 I hogged out the thinned out areas with cutting burrs and light weight oil. I still have not put it to the test, but I have as much or more open throat as a factory cast iron housing. I also use burrs on all oil and water ports on the block and oil pump housing..
@@SteveP-vm1uc I used a dremel, the fins were hitting even with a thinner gasket. It worked, nut I went back to a cast housing.
@@dangarrison3503 I’ve heard that before as well
Thank you for a great video!!! As you know I've been looking at the 440 source 451 or 470 kit (on hold due to finances). So this is great info to have. I too have called 440 source in talking to them about their heads vs the TrickfFow 240 heads (they sell both) and I got some good honest answers from them. They seem like good people. In the end I went with the TrickFlow 240 head.
Thanks John. Nice choice. Merry Christmas 🎄
@@JustMoparJoe Thank you. Merry Christmas to you as well.
This was a slick video Joe!!! Way to throw a boost to 440Source with your channel man! I saw the title and was like "oh, no what happened" and ended up being the opposite! I have been using them for years for various little things, several of my family members and local mopar guys as well. We have had very few quality control issues with anything so far. They are definitely an A list company for sure. One of the things to remember is that no company can 100% guarantee a product anymore, they can only take responsibility for any mistakes. Like you said, 440Source is doing just that. Look at how bad those Eddy heads were and imagine if there was a true unrepairable flaw, I bet it would take 6 months to get them to do anything about it, if at all. Yet 440S is jumping on it right away, very impressive company ethics!
Thanks brother. Merry Christmas to you and yours
@@JustMoparJoe Merry Xmas to you as well! I was going to text that instead but uncertainty said no.
Everybody makes mistakes. It's good to know they acknowledged they had a problem and fixed it. Thanks for the heads up Joe.
Glad to help! They were good about it and now offer the blem rods at a discount on the site, as well as found the correct sized pieces for the kits.
Great information sir!
Thanks brother!
Yeah Joe, it's good advice to check all your parts very closely even if they're new. I've got some junk parts from 440 source and I've got some good stuff too. I like the Scat rods just fine and I think the Eagle stroker kits are really nice. Worth the money to me; just for the peace of mind. My biggest problem w/ 440 source is that it's so difficult to return anything to them. Even if it's still new and unused. And if it's expensive -they won't do it at all; unless you agree to less than half your money back. Their "GO-TOO" line for ALL returns/ complaints is - "Trust me - It'll be fine - Were 440 experts and that's all we do - We checked it before we shipped it to you and made sure it was well withing specs - What was the part#? And what's your name again?" 🤣
Oh man. I’ve always had good luck communicating with Brandon. Thanks for sharing your experience with their stuff.
Just My opinion, you have to check and triple check and have some experience with working on this from a machinist point of view , tolerances are critical and knowing the difference in which areas to be aware of , this engine building for the DIY is a little more complicated than most are aware of IMO.
Absolutely true. I think a home builder like myself would heat that rod and slip the pin in and keep going. I bet it slid in really easy and then had some resistance. I am trying to be more diligent in clearances with my builds. I have a dial bore set that measures in .0005.
nice review !!! and nice seeing the black truck again!!
Thanks Tim! I will run against the old black truck someday
He took it out first time and won 2nd with it!
@@JustMoparJoe that truck is how I found your channel... looking around when we bought drag truck
pushrods being check for 'trueness" is always a good policy, even if new and from a reputable manufacturer.
Yes sir
Always call these bad parts out. You pay good money for these parts and these companies always gladly take your money. Glad the company will fix your problem.
They jumped on it
Thanks for the heads up!
Yes sir. Merry Christmas
I have a 440 source 543 stroker kit in my 440,Had it set up for Nitrous,which I'm changing it over for a 871 blower, Not sure how to measure for a lower compression piston, would make a great video to share if you have the knowledge on this? Greatly enjoy your videos they are very informative!
Thanks Dan. Many nitrous engines are built with lower compression in mind. Usually 10.5/1 or less. They would also have a wider ring gap, depending on the builder. Both of those are good for adding boost. If you can look at your build sheet to see if it had dished pistons, that’s be a quick way to determine a loose idea of what compression would be. If the heads were off the engine, you can bring a piston up to TDC and measure its height from the deck. 440 source is nice with their kits because they have a quick reference chart for each kit. So you could go to the site, find the stroker kits for 440 blocks, then scroll down to find the 54x kits.
@@JustMoparJoe the kit is already installed Joe it's at 11.1 compression ratio,as of now! All the speed shops around here have all been closed up very hard to find nitrous so what I'm doing is changing the compression ratio of the engine and replacing it with a blower with that being said I need a lower compression piston the 440 source 543 stroker kit comes with a 7.1 length rod mine is actually 5:37 cubic inch because it's only bored 30,000 with a 4.35 bore I guess maybe I should call a piston maker and see if they can hook me up maybe 4:40 source I'd like to know that just for my own knowledge but thanks again for your reply Joe
Good stuff as always brother… Keep rockIn.
Thanks Mike!
Thanks Joe for the heads up,,,, 🦗 grasshopper
Any time!
It seems we go through this issue of parts being defective every time their is a shift from one country to another when manufacturing is concerned. Originally it was issues with things being made in Japan, that cleared up and we all know Japan makes some excellent electronics. Then we had issues with 70's vehicles parts being made in Mexico. I'd pulled and trashed a lot of the "Made In Mexico" engine blocks due to poor metallurgy in their blocks and bearings. Sorry, 1/4 inch thrust clearance isn't acceptable on a crankshaft......lol. We've had Taiwan, India, Philippines, and Indonesia thrown in as well. Now it's China. I'm not sure that country will ever step their game up to a consistent level because of their politics and the value of life that they place on their people. Now don't get me wrong, they do put out some amazing products, especially when they take a proven design and clone it, carbs, intakes, ignition systems, etc. But where they really seem to fail is with parts that need exact tolerances, heat treating, and metallurgy on intricate parts. And it seems quality control is thrown by the wayside in order to put out maximum volume of parts. We're car guys, we adapt, we overcome, and thankfully there are companies that are willing to stand behind the parts that they're importing. Sorry about the long winded rant, but I'm one of those older guys who has seen the world go from "this part will work" to "let me break out the calipers and check this thing before I even attempt to install it". Leaves you kind of bitter if ya know what I mean.
the reason the countries change is because manufactures are cheapskate bastards who are trying to maximize profits instead of maximizing customer loyalty. they exploit poor people in poor countries for cheap labor. as time passes, those people realize their value and demand more pay. over time, other places become more profitable to move production there instead.
Thank you for sharing. I wasn’t really buying parts until the early 2000’s. But I am seeing the value of rebuilding and reusing stock parts as much as possible. I see your points on the Chinese. We are blessed to still have some resemblance of freedom.
Thanks for heads up. Im using Scat. I am interested to see the Lifter install, i know racer used it years back . and there are skeptics' out there
Thanks brother. Will show lifters and valvetrain in next video.
The list of people and parts you can trust continues to shrink, Joe. Thanks for the alert. I had to take my 440 Source head to a local machine shop because the valve cover would not seat down due to a missed machining step.
Wow, Don! Mine had two spring cups under one spring 😅
Bought a 440 out of Daytona that had the same problem. I thought they were LY rods, have to check. I may have that cylinder sleeved and bring the motor to .040" over as it was already .030" over. Grooved the cylinder pretty good.
Thanks for sharing!
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Cley. I would buy these rods again. Just have to be sure about the ends. But that’s any rod
@@JustMoparJoe seems any part at all needs to be checked! Merry Christmas Joe!
@@Mynextproject_74 merry Christmas, buddy!
Awesome thanks for letting us know
Thanks brother. Merry Christmas 🎄
Glad to hear “440 Source” is stepping up making it right. This is how an American owned and operated company is supposed to operate! Many overseas companies could take a lesson from this! Appreciate the heads up Joe, good luck bro! 👍
Thanks Steve. Merry Christmas
@@JustMoparJoe Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours Joe!
Great 440-Source feed back….. whoooo 512 cu”
Thanks Michael
Joe, if 440 was the only place to order parts, I would call 📞 it quites on my/our favorite pastime. I won't do it! Now you have to rebalance the engine! Just WOW!
Thanks buddy. I’m glad they’re aware and trying to remedy it. Hope I can get the word out
I am Interested in how their rocker arms hold up for you. Lots of cheapo junk rockers out there. T&D, Jesel, Comp all out of my budget. I'm basically planning on upgrading my iron head 440 with a .509 cam to Eddy or TFS heads using the factory rockers. For now.
I will report on it. I got a solid warning from a viewer that his ate into the 440 source rocker shafts. I will pull mine and check them out after the break in and dyno
I know this video is a year old, but this very thing just happened to a 440 that came into Nick's garage in Canada. (Feb. or March of 2024.) Wrist pin came out and really messed up the block.
Oh man! Ed caught the issue right away. I’m glad to have shared this one, but 440 has made it right because of this video.
Regarding 'Pin Fitting'.... as a std machining operation which always be checked/set as req'd.
Anytime any Rods are being utilized, Full Floating or NON-Floating....
no matter Street, Street/Strip or dedicated Competition as they have been over the decades....
the small Ends of all Rods should be Pin "Fitted" as per the application..... and yes, even when running 'interference' Fit.... that interference should be Honed and "set" so as to provide FULL and ROUND retention on the Pin as the small end cools... which can NOT be done utilizing a Rod Oven which DISTORTS the Rod small end by overheating to purple color half way done the Beam section of the Rod... which results in uneven cooling/uneven Pin clamping force.
When the interference fit in a pressed fit Rod small end has been "Pin-Fit" correctly @ .001" interference.... all that is required is a very light "straw colored' heating with a hand held propane/butane torch of the small end of the rod to insert the Pin.... allowing the small end to then contract down onto the Pin "uniformly' and UN-distorted for FULL ROUND Pin retention.
IMO,
Pin Fitting .001" Clearance in the Pistons.... with .001" Interference Fit in an LY Rod as described/performed/assembled as above ...
is not only far superior..... but will last far longer in my experience..... than any "steel on steel' Full Floating attempt that has insufficient dissimilar hardness materials wear surface(1053 Steel on whatever Pin Steel) for extended street/strip or even limited Competition usage.
We have built many hundreds of BB Mopar Street/Strip and Competition stock rod 451 efforts as far back as the 1970's logging many thousands of hits.....utilizing the above NON-full floating 'fitted' .001" interference fit LY rod small ends and .001" Clrc Pistons..... NEVER had a failure.
IMO...
'Steel on Steel' is nothing but limited term usage.
Reccommended Tools/equipment for proper Pin-Fitting.
Sunnen Rod Hone with AG300 Gauge
Sunnen Pin Fixture Parallels for setting the AG300
Set of Sunnen SYY Steel Lifetime Mandrels suitable for wide-slot 4032 and 2618 alloy Forgings.
Thanks for sharing. I have had great luck with floating steel to steel. Ran many seasons on the stock floated rods and kb pistons. It’s the way my Dad and I were back, to back,to back, track champions in bracket classes. Typically, the pistons and stock rods were replaced every 4-5 years. I am at a pivotal moment in my racing life and personal life. I can finally afford aftermarket parts, but my kids need diapers, food, and Christmas presents. Going the cheaper route is better in some areas that I know to be reliable for my bracket car. Hopefully I can make 10 races next year. It was an act of congress to make 5-6 last year.
Merry Christmas, Bob!
@@JustMoparJoe Merry X-Mas to you to Joe, and Thx for sharing your channel.
As always .... just providing an 'option' if you don't want the 'steel on steel'.... obviously, you call/preference to do as you see fit with your Engine.
Just say'in.... and if you're on a budget ?... it's far quicker/cheaper Vrs Full Floating 'steel on steel' and having to drill an Oil Hole ..... to just Pin-Fit the Pin in the Pistons @ .001".... and while you're there and already setup just Hone the Rod small ends 'round' down to .001" interference.... then it only requires a small torch heat to 'straw colored' and the Pin slides right in.... and because it wasn't Heated Purple/Distorted in a Rod Oven it will contract 'evenly' with full clampload on the Pin and it ain't going anywhere..... PLENTY of wear surface on the 1.04" Pins in the Piston.
I wasn't kidding.... we were doing Competition 451's/ARIAS Pistons/LY Rods as far back as the late 70's/early 80's that way.... same even street/strip/brackets 383's/440's/440-6 Pack stuff.... all of it... NEVER a problem and many were still running/racing well into the 90's.
Not done much anymore obviously as anything I/we do these days doesn't use stock rods... but if I ever saw something 'stock'ish' again that's the way I'd still do them... 451, 400, 440 no matter.
Best of Luck and Happy New Year !
One of the most intelligent commentaries on this subject and I agree with you 100%. The ONLY reason for 'full floating' the pins is for ease of repair/maintenance. The only (musclecar era) engines that Chrysler offered which came from the factory with 'full floated pins' were the 426 Hemi, 340, and 318. The first 2 were 'HP' ONLY engines. The 318 was used in a bunch of Industrial and HD truck and fleet applications. I also have NEVER had an issue with pressed pins in OE rods or decent aftermarket ones, but they're easy to check. I use the dealership (Miller tool) pin press arbor tool and there's even a way to check the interference if it's correct. I hadn't checked in a while but the factory spec on the press fit is 7-14 tenths, so 1 thou is right in the middle.
Most of the time, using the thermal method to insert the pin people will overheat the rod. Getting the rod to 'straw' tan is all you need. Purple or blue is too hot and will begin to anneal the metal and change it's ductility properties. This WILL cause it to lose it's grip on the pin.
As far as Honing a 'steel' rod to float a steel pin without a bronze bushing, It's just plain wrong. Why introduce a weakness into an HP build or 'backward engineer' reliability? Anybody that knows anything about metallurgy knows that you cannot have two materials of similar composition and hardness which are contact wear surfaces and not gall. All of the OE's used Oilite sintered bronze bushings because they retained oil in the pores. Even the GM 'Pink' rods had bronze plated pin ends, then they honed them.
I know there are people that will take the short cut and may get away with it for a while but that doesn't mean it's right or they'll beat the odds forever. How hard is it to press a bushing in the rod and size it? If you're going to pay for the machining, do it right. I've had some people point to the LT1 rods or more modern engines without bushings. In all those cases the rods are softer powdered iron. The only saving grace of not properly bushing a steel rod for the wrist pin is the fact that it also pivots in the piston, but it's NOT a high reliability move. There's NO in-between.
As an example, some 20+ years ago when Comp came out with their investment cast steel 'Magnum' rockers, the Chrysler shaft rockers ran bare steel rockers on hard chrome shafts. And were galling all over the place. Then they introduced bronze bushings to correct the problem. What a novel idea. Those that think they can re-invent the wheel learn a hard and expensive lesson. One guy said you can't run Spirolox or Circlips in a pressed pin piston (with lock grooves) because it would pound out the locks. That may be true, but what's the difference between that and a seized pin in a steel rod?
BTW, when I saw the price of those 'Source' rods I wasn't all that surprised. Hard to believe they can buy ARP bolts for those and still make a profit.
On my 440 stroker I went with Scat Chevy-sized 'long-travel' rods. Way overkill for my application but they are nice rods for the money.👍
Thanks for sharing. Definitely an upgrade from these
What is a long travel rod?
@@auteurfiddler8706sorry about that I’ve called them ‘long travel’ - rods that are longer than stock length, the piston spends more time at the apex, vs if you used stock length
@@conradk Well, that confused me. According the Mopar Bible, the 440 and 400 Mopar engines have longer rods than BB Chevy. They were bragging about "rod ratios" around 1.7 vs 1.5 or something like that for the competition.
@@auteurfiddler8706 Yes there isn't much to be gained... In my application I will have way more torque than I can put to the ground so am just trying to move my power up the band a bit.
Good morning to you JMJ I hope you are having a good day so far and I am hooked to going to a machine shop trying to get a quality part is getting almost next to impossible and the way I did it years ago I would have junk by the first or second oil change by the looks of things now.
Thanks John! Merry Christmas to you and yours
@@JustMoparJoe thanks for sharing this I am going to have to be really due diligent about my new motor build I plan on getting started here this spring. You have a great day today. Looking forward to seeing your next one.
P. S., Thank you and God bless, stay warm.
I am surprised the pin walked out that far without the engine installing a new inspection window in the side.
Exactly what I thought! I bet it made a strong noise when it was coming apart
Finally had time to watch this vid. When you posted it in the facebook mopar engine group the other day you sure took a lot of hate for it seemed like. Seems like legit concerns to me.
Thanks brother. I went ahead and deleted that post. There was guys almost cussing each other out on how pistons are fitted to rods. I didn’t want to give an Avenue of hostility, especially during the holiday season. So far I’ve gotten multiple thanks for bringing up the issue. Of course all parts should be checked out before building. Thanks Mopardude. Merry Christmas 🎄
Man...that reminds me of what blew up my Indian motorcycle engine. Only it was a wristpin clip that came off. Rear cylinder of the V-twin....the pin was tapping and scraping the bore.....I had no idea what was happening....then, the piston grenaded into a million pieces, locked up the engine, bent the steel H-beam rod, bent the valves etc....😖😖😖
Man that sounds rough! Glad it didn’t lock up while going down the road
@@JustMoparJoe , 2002 Indian Chief. Indian PP100 bottlecap engine...only made that engine for 3 years. Bought the bike in 2010 with 8k miles. I babied it. Then one day in 2017, I raced it down the highway...then pushed it hard from a stoplight...it developed a loud tick/tapping noise. It grenaded in my garage! I should've torn it down before it grenaded.
I still have the bike. Going to get a rebuilt PP100 from a place in FL. eventually.
I could just do an S&S, but the original engine is what makes the bike an Indian.
A lot of these issues is why I stopped doing more with less...in the mid 90's I had enough of buying cheap new/used parts that need machining cause ya gotta pay to take those parts and make them right. Cheaper and less hassle to buy the good stuff. But today I'm not so sure, we just ordered dyers rods and they are over 2200 bucks.
That’s some cash! Should be in an impressive build.
@@JustMoparJoe They last forever.
Brother how are you doing Along with Yah,........ MOPAR'S.......I love your Beautiful MoPAR TruCK,.......We have a 1975 w/a 440 727RMV.......DANA 60 out of a 1970/440,4Spd CUDA
Thanks Danny. Trying to finish the 400 up by the end of the year. Many projects coming up next year!
I got harmonic balancer from 440 source . I think it is thicker than stock and belts don't line up
I’ve heard that before. Not really sure if it’s spacing on the pulley or can only be used with certain brackets.
I had both sets of china rods I bought bored and bushings installed for full floaters. Easier to install pistons at home, 😂 👍💪
True that! Mine are steel to steel! No regrets!
Defective parts from 440 Source ? I didn’t know they had any other kind. I’m sorry I know I’m being a jerk lol . My opinion of 440 Source is they are the low end of the Chinese parts . I hate redoing anything so I wait until I can throw a little more money at a better part . Another good video Joe , you keep posting and I’ll keep giving comment, wanted or not lol
Thanks for sharing. I know many people on both sides of the fence. I’ll keep riding it 😂
@@JustMoparJoe Ouuuch I heard riding the fence causes splinters lol
So 440 Source is doing the quality control that should have been done at the manufacturing plant ? Good that they have stepped up and are taking care of the customers . Did the loose pin cause any block damage ?
Thanks for another informative video .
The owner says that the block was savable in that cylinder. 440 source is checking their parts at least now. Merry Christmas Terry
Merry Christmas to you and your family as well .
I have the same exact rods as you do in my 400B I'm building. Mine are utilizing the press fit since it's just a beefed up truck engine. Did 440 Source happen to say when they started to measure the rods? Like the beginning of this year, or a couple months ago. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks buddy. The guy said it was within the last couple weeks that they got a measurement tool. My rods were purchased over a year ago. The 440 rods were 8-10 months old
@@JustMoparJoe ordered my rods months ago. They should be good I trust the guy that put them together. Thanks
@@subwoofer8865 that’s the important part
when it comes to Chinese parts some can be fine other what was I thinking. Thanks for the info. Like the EQ heads of today Dave Hughes warned us about. I think it was from 318willrun those Chinese EQ are not bolt on
That’s for sure. He does great work. I always tune in!
👍👍🚒
Thanks brother
Just got a set of gaskets from 440 Source - no name packaging and the head gaskets have black flaking stuff on them and they are very sticky. called 440 Source and ask about them and they said they are teflon coated - I don't think so. I asked if the gaskets were US made - no answer. I ask what the brand was and they said DC. Checking on line DC gaskets are made in Mexico. The very fine print on the package does say (in spanish) assembled in Mexico, products from Mexico and Taiwan. Have no idea what this stuff is...
They’re usually very good to issue refunds
Have you had metal transfer to the Hard Chrome wrist pin from the 440-S rods?
Not that I have it’s just a question? M
Have no idea yet. The engine will run will be completed and on a dyno soon.
So you are saying that the one pictured had walked-out in a running engine? Did it go far enough to gouge the cylinder wall??
It walked out just like that. He swears the wall is fine and only switched rods
@@JustMoparJoe WOW!!!
buying aftermarket parts truly really don't last long as they say it can cause sometime they break easier.
It’s true. I would have reconned the stock rods but didn’t have them. I got the pistons, rods, and rings for my engine from a friend for a great deal.
Why are you using solid roller lifters on that cam?
It’s a hydraulic roller cam. It’s becoming a common practice on some stuff. Engine masters showed it made 10 more hp and the solid lifters made more reliable power over the hydraulics. The hydraulic roller cam has a softer ramp for the lifter to roll on, so it’s easier on the valve train versus a solid roller.
ua-cam.com/video/GZTdo2-cGCM/v-deo.html
Did you have the urge to Wave Back to Burt?
😂
Every company has its challenges. You name them, they have issues. Some publicized more than others, but it's the nature of the business and it comes with the territory. 440 Source has always treated me well and made things right if something wasn't. And I have no interest in the company, I just know the guys are straight shooters from my experience.
Brandon is a great guy, and I’m excited to be working with them now. This video actually sparked up a good relationship for us. These rods are now available for a reduced price on their website as blemished. They have done a good job of recognizing and remediating the issue.
Is that you mopar joe
You caught me again!
👍🏻💯🇦🇺
Thanks brother
440 Source
Yes. 440 Source.
Thanks Chris
Glad 440 source wants to make things right but…my early New Year’s resolution is if I can determine something I want to buy is made in China I will not buy it. I will buy used parts before I buy any more Chinese garbage
Thanks Robert. I hope y’all have a merry Christmas in Oklahoma! Stay warm
Thank you Joe ! I hope you and all your family have a merry Christmas 🎄 as well
Yikes! They're the rods i went with in 2015 when i had my 440 built. The machine shop didn't say anything bad about them, so i assume they're ok🤷♂️. They resized the big ends and used arp cap screws. Engine only has cam break in and dyno time. Hasn't made it into my car yet.
ua-cam.com/video/sZIgbBi4wKM/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing! I’ll check it out
Just change you name to JOPAR
Blake over at Bad Tree Productions calls me “Jopar Moe”
@@JustMoparJoe that’s like a freind of mine from Nebraska who says ,”don’t Huck with the Cornfuskers.”
Chinese parts and bad service. I have had nothing but trouble with them.
Oh man! I’m sorry to hear that! I’ve always been satisfied minus this deal. But they made it right. Went back and checked every set of rods on the shelf and sold the defective sets at a discount.