unfazed by the barking pup during precision paint applications.....,. Sean, you are truly a legend! And being a dog owner just gives you a boost in cool guy points.
Greatings from NZ bro Have you thought about making yourself a sprey booth/box.... Quite easy one I made using a cardboard refrigerator box with a small 5" fan, a length of ceiling ventilation tubing and a few sheets of 3m or similar scuff pads as filters... Also a few spaced layers of Chux type cloth works as a good filter
Very nice work. Could you please explain in a little more detail how how you fit the gear doors for retracted gear? In the process of building the J variant kit, and want to have it gear up l, but can’t really figure out the best way to go about it. Thanks!
The nose gear doors weren’t too bad. I just had to carefully file a small amount of material from the edges of the doors, angled my filing towards the inside of the doors. Then glued one side, let that cure, then taped and glued the other side. Had to do it that way as after filing, they still wouldn’t sit exactly flush without pressure being applied. For the engine nacelles, I think I glued one door on each nacelle, let that cure, then glued on the other doors. If I remember right, there was still a substantial gap but doing it this way, I was able to keep the gap on one side and just filled and re scribed. I think I might have had to straighten out the front end of the doors with a file as well.
Random question for you, you used to have the multi-view drawings of various aircraft on the wall behind you. One of them was of an F-8 Crusader. Would you mind sharing details on that one--any specific unit markings, where you got it, etc? Thanks
Like your method for painting your props. I have had trouble chipping with Tamiya XF paint. This is what I did....primer---Tamiya LP silver---hairspray---Tamiya XF-62 Olive Drab thinned with Mr Hobby levelling thinner and left to dry over night. Had a heck of a time getting the paint to start chipping no matter how stiff the brush and amount of water used. I could dab, dab, dab until dooms day and could not get the paint to chip. Even using a tooth pick it would get down to the silver but looked like a scratch and not the worn down to metal effect desired. Any ideas?
Glad you've done the Tamiya P-38. I've got a Tamiya P-38J on order and plan to use after market decals with an OD scheme. I've heard it's a great kit to build, any comments on the construction you'd like to share?
It’s a little more complicated than the Tamiya f-14 and f-4 models and there’s a little more sanding and filling than I anticipated but it’s still a really good fitting kit
@@seanerk5kt9 Sean, I was looking back through your videos and I noticed you have never published a video of a helicopter build. Aircraft? Check. Sci-fi? Check. Submarine? (See Sci-Fi). Even a car. but no Helos. If you ever have a helo itch to scratch check out the Special Hobbies 1/32 AH-1G "Hi-Tech" kit. Comes with 3-D printed, resin and painted PE parts. Even paint masks for the canopy. Pretty much everything you'd want for a build in one box. Thanks again for your builds. Really are an inspiration for us mere mortals.
Always enjoy watching these modelling videos. However so many of the materials seem to be environmentally hazardous. Are the waste plastics recyclable?
Great video. Didn’t quite understand what you meant by your comment that you used lacquer thinner with the Tamiya paint and it doesn’t have an effect. Can you amplify what you are referring to in terms of lacquer vs other types of thinner and chipping?
@@seanerk5kt9 Thank you. I have never done hairspray chipping. Didn't realize there could be a difference in use of types thinner with Tamiya paint that effects how the chipping process.
I seem to have issues with that AK metal colour rubbing off even after a week or two of curing has anyone else had this issue? I do the same as you with brushing Tamiya paint but I also add a touch of Liquitex Flow Improver works well. Looks great so far. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻🙃🙃
Great video and I really enjoy your demeanor and teaching technique. Suggestion for your props - the weathering on the leading edge of the prop gets more significant the further outboard from the hub. It’s not uniform across the leading edge.
unfazed by the barking pup during precision paint applications.....,. Sean, you are truly a legend! And being a dog owner just gives you a boost in cool guy points.
Great to see you back mate...
The masking workout perfectly! Awesome work and keep on enjoying the coffee lol
I admire the level of control you have with the airbrush, a skill I'm yet to get even reasonably competent with let alone master.
You don't need airbrush. I have been modeling for 40 years and would never use them.
@@brianhurley6289 I know but I wouldn't be without mine...
You’ve really motivated me to try this. Thanks brother
Drinking coffee on this end too.
Greatings from NZ bro
Have you thought about making yourself a sprey booth/box.... Quite easy one I made using a cardboard refrigerator box with a small 5" fan, a length of ceiling ventilation tubing and a few sheets of 3m or similar scuff pads as filters... Also a few spaced layers of Chux type cloth works as a good filter
I have a spray booth;).
Never thought about taking back chipping but I like the way you are doing this technique. Thanks for the tip and your work is outstanding.
what a amazing watch,thank you for sharing .
Looking fab
Amazing work as always truly amazing from the UK
Awesome looking!
Great video! I really like these longer videos, but maybe we can get some more coffee sips 😂
Good video looking great
Sean how did you close the wheel bays on the p-38? Id like to do it myself and Im thinking of styrene tabs etc.. Any help would be appreciated
I don’t remember :(
The automated subtitles say at some point „dog“😂 Sean, as usual, a very, very well done paintjob. Very tasteful.
Impressive work! I like it very much. Do you plan to show us some details of the cockpit?
What you can see thru the canopy glass I’ll be sure to show
@@seanerk5kt9 Great! Thank you :)
Very nice work. Could you please explain in a little more detail how how you fit the gear doors for retracted gear? In the process of building the J variant kit, and want to have it gear up l, but can’t really figure out the best way to go about it. Thanks!
The nose gear doors weren’t too bad. I just had to carefully file a small amount of material from the edges of the doors, angled my filing towards the inside of the doors. Then glued one side, let that cure, then taped and glued the other side. Had to do it that way as after filing, they still wouldn’t sit exactly flush without pressure being applied. For the engine nacelles, I think I glued one door on each nacelle, let that cure, then glued on the other doors. If I remember right, there was still a substantial gap but doing it this way, I was able to keep the gap on one side and just filled and re scribed. I think I might have had to straighten out the front end of the doors with a file as well.
Thanks so much for the response. I’m a bit scared to try it, but think I’ll give it a go :)
Awsome job! What paint did you use for the olive drab? I find Tamiya to be to dark and green not enough brown to it .
I used Tamiya mixed with deck tan
I come for the models, I stay for the coffee gulping.
Random question for you, you used to have the multi-view drawings of various aircraft on the wall behind you. One of them was of an F-8 Crusader. Would you mind sharing details on that one--any specific unit markings, where you got it, etc? Thanks
I threw it away so I can’t share the details. I’m pretty sure it came from a 1/32 trumper kit.
@@seanerk5kt9 No worries, thanks for replying.
Like your method for painting your props.
I have had trouble chipping with Tamiya XF paint. This is what I did....primer---Tamiya LP silver---hairspray---Tamiya XF-62 Olive Drab thinned with Mr Hobby levelling thinner and left to dry over night. Had a heck of a time getting the paint to start chipping no matter how stiff the brush and amount of water used. I could dab, dab, dab until dooms day and could not get the paint to chip. Even using a tooth pick it would get down to the silver but looked like a scratch and not the worn down to metal effect desired. Any ideas?
Maybe use more layers of hairspray and or thinner coats of olive drab.
You have to chip it faster, don't let it dry overnight. Start when its just dry 45 min or so.
Glad you've done the Tamiya P-38. I've got a Tamiya P-38J on order and plan to use after market decals with an OD scheme. I've heard it's a great kit to build, any comments on the construction you'd like to share?
It’s a little more complicated than the Tamiya f-14 and f-4 models and there’s a little more sanding and filling than I anticipated but it’s still a really good fitting kit
@@seanerk5kt9 Sean, I was looking back through your videos and I noticed you have never published a video of a helicopter build. Aircraft? Check. Sci-fi? Check. Submarine? (See Sci-Fi). Even a car. but no Helos. If you ever have a helo itch to scratch check out the Special Hobbies 1/32 AH-1G "Hi-Tech" kit. Comes with 3-D printed, resin and painted PE parts. Even paint masks for the canopy. Pretty much everything you'd want for a build in one box. Thanks again for your builds. Really are an inspiration for us mere mortals.
Always enjoy watching these modelling videos. However so many of the materials seem to be environmentally hazardous. Are the waste plastics recyclable?
They may be recyclable but I throw them away in the normal trash.
Are you for real ???
@@dkki201 ua-cam.com/video/rld0KDcan_w/v-deo.html
@@seanerk5kt9 😂
Thank you!
Great video. Didn’t quite understand what you meant by your comment that you used lacquer thinner with the Tamiya paint and it doesn’t have an effect. Can you amplify what you are referring to in terms of lacquer vs other types of thinner and chipping?
I’ve found no difference in how Tamiya chips when thinned with various thinners.
@@seanerk5kt9 Thank you. I have never done hairspray chipping. Didn't realize there could be a difference in use of types thinner with Tamiya paint that effects how the chipping process.
I seem to have issues with that AK metal colour rubbing off even after a week or two of curing has anyone else had this issue? I do the same as you with brushing Tamiya paint but I also add a touch of Liquitex Flow Improver works well. Looks great so far. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻🙃🙃
I have heard this occurs when too heavy of coats are applied.
@@brettbricker1810
Ok thanks. I tried light coats heavy coats seem to get the same results.
Is there a reason you didn't install the Elevator Counter Balance? How do you maintain the continuity of the paint installing it later?
Because I would break them off. I paint them at the same time using the same techniques, just separate from the model
Hey Sean, what is your formula for Medium Gray?
I use this page to get me in the ballpark
www.aerohistorians.org/Other/Tamiya_paint_mixes_4-17.pdf
Thanks!!
The propeller blades are counter rotating.
👍👍
The cone on the prop is called a spinner
😊👍
Такая методика cheaping выглядит интереснее, особенно на большем масштабе. Видел ролик, где автор рекомендовал защищать слой Металлика лаком.
Great video and I really enjoy your demeanor and teaching technique. Suggestion for your props - the weathering on the leading edge of the prop gets more significant the further outboard from the hub. It’s not uniform across the leading edge.
please take your sip before starting the video, rest is outstanding!
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