Another way to cut through the mortar is to use a masonry saw. It would save you a lot of time drilling all of those holes (you asked if anybody had another idea).
Think this is a great method and was happy I came across it - couldn't use grinder bc spigot pipe on one side of brick. Maybe he was using the sds drill on slower speed for control but my Makita Bulldog with a cross tip bit goes through brick mortar like butter! Can drill each hole in 2-3 seconds (depends on mortar mix I guess), maybe 8 seconds to go through brick itself. Just in case anybody is running out to get an SDS plus for the job!
One important facet of SDS drill units is that not all of them have a built in rotary action stop facility which is what`s required if you need to use the chisel action. I have 2 SDS drills neither of which have this facility, very annoying for me.
This was 👍. I own a 50s home in the United States and needed to sister joists in my bathroom. The only way I can get the joists in is to remove some exterior bricks and slide the new joists in from the front exterior of the home
I have about 15 bricks on my chimney that have the faces missing. Would you try to repair the faces or remove the bricks as you demonstrated and add new ones?
Hi, I have to do very similar job, but need to install air Rick instead old imperial. I couldn’t find any information on the web as to how to install air bricks into solid brick wall of an old house. I am planing to install additional two air brick at the front of the bay wall due to damp issues. One is already there placed in the middle. It is a solid brick wall house was built back in 1900. My question, due to structural integrity reasons do I need to install lintel when installing air brick. Wall is pretty thick, more than 200 mm. Would appreciate any advice really. Many thanks.
I've got to remove some to fix a pipe that busted one winter it's going to be a challenge but it really needs to be fixed so, I can use that faucet again.
Hey mate, if you are doing this job alot, I would get an Arbortech Allsaw. They're not cheap but they do this job way quicker and they square cut on the head joint
Have you heard of clinker bricks? My fireplace has some sticking out of it like mixed in with regular style bricks and I really want to remove the clinker bricks that way I have a "normal looking fireplace" lol
I have an old house to demolish that has 300 blocks which I would like to use for a fence. I was thinking of removing the roof first and then slowly going from the top surface, block by block? Thank you my friend
Say I'm trying to turn a very large window that overlooks a backyard into a sliding glass door. Taking the small number of bricks out below the window that would later become a door all at once should compromise structural integrity, right?
Its one brick - it cant. Bricks are arranged to distribute loads in what is called corbelling so that even removing a few bricks will only cause the weight above it to be redistributed to the bricks either side of them. Look up self corbelling for diagrams on this principle.
Hi Chris the brick that I need to remove is in the middle of a walkway so the mortar underneath is holding it in. Any suggestions for removing it? I am not concerned with destroying the brick because I have spares. Thanks
I would "stitch drill" it out Chip... i.e. drill lots of holes into it with a standard masonry drill bit (6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm - it doesn't matter really). I would drill down to the exact depth of the brick, so you only just reach the mortar below. Once you've turned the whole brick into Swiss cheese, you can break it up with a hammer & thin chisel and hoover out all the bits.
Could you use this method to remove bricks at strategic locations in order to retie the brick to a newly framed and sheathed wall? I'm trying to get creative with a termite damage repair...an exterior wall needs to be reframed and resheathed but the brick ties would need to be cut to do so and then would need to be retied. The brick veneer is in very good shape and I'm looking for a way to retie the brick without removing the entire brick veneer.
Came cause they're tearing down my old apartment complex I grew up in and I wanna go steal a brick and have all of us that grew up there, (since we're all still friends and hangout once in a while) sign it and keep it in a nice glass case or something hahaha thanks
Hi Chris Great Video, have a question, how useful are plugging chisels for working out the mortar after using your method with the SDS drill ? Also what advantages do you see between using a brick removal chisel vs a plugging chisel and how long does a brick removal chisel last (i.e how many bricks or jobs might it last) Cheers George
Hi George, thank you for your comment. A lot depends on the individual situation. If you are doing a couple of bricks you can use the same stitch drilling method and then knock out the remaining mortar with a plugging chisel. The mortar on our house is made from some super-reinforced alien space dust and I had 23 bricks to remove so the brick removal chisel saved me about a week of manual chiseling. How long will a brick removal chisel last? Good question. I guess that depends on the quality of the material used in the chisel you purchase and the kind of material you are removing with it. Happy brick removing! Cheers, Chris 👍
I need to tear down an old brick garage and not damage the bricks so I can reuse them on the new garage. Another youtuber showed using a sawzall to cut through the mortar, but that didn’t work on my garage. The mortar is like rock. Any ideas?
Great video! Thanks for the advice! I need an indoor "air vent brick" fitted to a damp chimney breast area. What do I do if all I see is wallpaper? In other words, I don't see the "exposed" brickwork as such, as in your video, I just see, well I guess it's plaster? Do I drill through that, until I start to see the brickwork? Then once I see a brick, and its mortar, then follow your directions in the video? So, to begin with anyway, would it be a case of "Trial and error", sort of thing? Do you have experience with indoor air vent bricks? Thanks a lot!
Hi Aserta, yes you can use those too. Here's a 9 inch masonry cutting blade on amazon: www.amazon.com/Hitachi-752040-9-Inch-Reciprocating-Blade/dp/B0017100S8 Cheers, Chris 👍
@@christopher_barr It's actually hard to find these tools in the USA. I just repaired a brick retaining wall with the help of a mason, your video was super useful on how to carefully take the wall down (Save the brick, put them back up with new mortar).
Can I use any drill and any insert? I have a drill where I change the nozzle for different uses but is this a particular one with particular power? (sorry big time newbie here)
Hi there, you'll need a SDS Drill but you can get them pretty cheap these days. This is the one I have: www.screwfix.eu/titan-ttb278sds-5kg-sds-plus-hammer-drill-230-240v.html Good luck with the job! Cheers, Chris 👍
I'll probably need a professional mason but I had my handyman brick in a large window. He did it by eye and when finished it has an inward how to it. He SHOULD have checked to make sure it was plumb. Structurally I'd say it's ok but unhappy cosmetically. I hate to remove all the outer bricks but I don't see any other way.
Why not make things a lot quicker, simpler and therefore cheaper come to think of it. Use a 9" grinder with a stone blade or diamond blade. Cut in to the mortar bed along the length of bricks you need, top and bottom. Don't forget your safety equipment and try not to do it off a ladder as that isn't a stable working platform! Either use scaffolding, or wait until the extension/porch/lean to is built you can then use the timber framework as a platform, as long as its sufficiently strong to hold your weight that is... REMEMBER, safety first, last and foremost. Once you've cut the top and bottom mortar from your brick you only need to drill the mortar from the sides of your first couple of bricks, after that, you can repeat the cutting process top and bottom, except once the first couple of bricks are out, you can use a lump hammer to knock the remaing bricks a couple at a time as necessary from behind with minimal force. DO NOT CUT THE FULL LENGTH OF THE BRICK LINE YOU WANT TO REMOVE IN ONE GO, ONLY CUT THE MORTAR OF UP TO 3 BRICKS AT A TIME, insert your tray, and then replace the bricks, BEFORE moving on to the next 3 Using this method is much much much quicker than drilling and chiseling, it also means if your house has poor mortar bonds, then you are less likely to disturb the adjoining brickwork with lots of drilling and chiseling, and you also have little chance of damaging your sometimes irriplaceable bricks (Because they're no longer made). Even though this is a much quicker method, you should be methodical in your approach and DON'T rush any part of the job, fools rush in and usually cost themselves a lot more than the price of a tradesman to have done the job in the first place. Take care you lot
Thanks for your comment Keith. I have seen more injuries with grinders than with any other tool (unless you count bottle openers and the subsequent effects of their use...) I have also seen the mess someone made to the bricks on my house with a grinder, where they slipped and damaged the edges of the bricks. Removing mortar with a grinder also creates a mini Sahara desert worth of dust which gets absolutely everywhere, all the way down the street and on neighbours cars, house windows etc. which doesn't exactly do wonders for relations with them. Drilling and chiseling creates a lot less dust. I agree with you that working a 9" grinder off a ladder is not safe - which is why I never suggested doing that in the first place. I would argue 'my' way is quicker simpler and cheaper than 'your' way, as putting up scaffolding takes time and money. I removed 23 bricks from the front of my house (a few at a time, like I said in the video). I didn't damage the bricks and I didn't hurt myself. I would love to know some good reliable tradesmen to do this kind of work for me but I'm afraid I am yet to find someone I trust, hence me doing the work myself.
@@christopher_barr I do tuckpointing in the states, and we use special grinders that have stackable wheels to fit the joints your working on. Also, they have vacuum attachments that suck up all that pesky dust.
Chris, is it possible to remove bricks without damage with 'manual' tools? E.g. just a hammer and chisel? I can't get a power supply to my wall and would prefer not to invest in battery-power tools for this single job.
Hi Lewis, it depends... The property in the video has mortar which is really hard to remove (it is 60 year old lime-based mortar, which is very resistant to removal via percussion). It would be possible to remove a brick from this property using just a hammer and chisel/s but I would estimate that it would take me something like 4 - 8 hours to remove a single brick. I guess it depends on how many brick you need to remove, what kind of mortar the wall is made with, and how much you value your time. Good luck and let us know how you get on. Cheers, Chris 👍
Yes, the lead flashing above the lintel was laid in a single 9 foot section, and over time this had split. (Modern practice is to lay lead in maximum 4 foot sections, to allow for differential thermal expansion and contraction, without the lead splitting) I replaced the whole section of lead with PVC cavity trays. I made another short video about this too. Cheers, Chris 👍
I wanted to increase the airflow around that area so the plan was always to add a bunch of airbricks and then add the shingles (these have openings at each end) to allow a good throughflow of air and at the same time keep any wind-driven rainwater out. I had also planned to build the pitched roof above the porch (as seen in another video) so the shingles were also an aesthetic addition to 'tie that in' to the front of the house.
Disadvantages of using a grinder for this job: *1. Dangerous* - grinders are one of the most dangerous tools for DIYers to use. Tons of people get injured from kickbacks, especially if they are not experts (this video is for DIYers). An SDS drill can be used up a ladder, like I did, safely - a grinder requires scaffolding or some other kind of stable platform, which costs $$$. *2. Dusty* - there is a small amount of dust created using 'my' method but this just falls straight down. When you cut masonry with a grinder you get about 100 times more dust and it shoots out a long way from where you are working. Not only is this unpleasant for the person doing the job, but also for others (you will dirty all your neighbour's windows, cars etc. which is a great way to annoy people) *3. Bricks get damaged* - unless you are a real expert in using a grinder, it is inevitable that the bricks will suffer cuts when cutting out the mortar with a grinder. I know on my house you can see where someone has used a grinder in the past to remove some mortar and they have made a real mess of some of the bricks. These bricks are no longer made, so you can't replace them like for like. That's why I recommend using the technique above for DIYers who need to re-use the bricks they are removing.
I had to remove 23 bricks from the front of our property to address damp (I had to clean out the cavity and replace lead cracked lead flashing with cavity trays). The bricks I removed are no longer made and the closest alternative bricks look different and are a different size. Using the technique in the video I was able to remove the bricks without damaging them. Cheers, Chris
By not going to prison in the first place. You will be saving your self 25 to 100 years of labor. If you feel you must commit a crime you should sneak a drill in by using your prison pocket have a buddy bring in the chisel and drill bits as I don't quite think all three will fit inside a rectum.
Thanks brother. Quick and precise. Just the way a demonstration should be done.
Cheers Terry 👍
Another way to cut through the mortar is to use a masonry saw. It would save you a lot of time drilling all of those holes (you asked if anybody had another idea).
I'm so new to all of this, but feel confident I'd be successful after watching this video. Brilliant!
Think this is a great method and was happy I came across it - couldn't use grinder bc spigot pipe on one side of brick. Maybe he was using the sds drill on slower speed for control but my Makita Bulldog with a cross tip bit goes through brick mortar like butter! Can drill each hole in 2-3 seconds (depends on mortar mix I guess), maybe 8 seconds to go through brick itself. Just in case anybody is running out to get an SDS plus for the job!
Thanks. I have to sort out groves left by a disc cutter. I’ll just take the brick out and turn it around 💪 thank you
One important facet of SDS drill units is that not all of them have a built in rotary action stop facility which is what`s required if you need to use the chisel action. I have 2 SDS drills neither of which have this facility, very annoying for me.
Clean work. Looking to do one brick myself this should help me out do a neat job.
This was 👍. I own a 50s home in the United States and needed to sister joists in my bathroom. The only way I can get the joists in is to remove some exterior bricks and slide the new joists in from the front exterior of the home
Cool. Check out the mortar router bit for angle grinders. I don't have one but look like they'd work great
at 4 1/2, not good enuff
I have about 15 bricks on my chimney that have the faces missing. Would you try to repair the faces or remove the bricks as you demonstrated and add new ones?
I've missed you Chris! I'm so happy you're back. Great video by the way. :D
Cheers buddy :-)
Awesome instructions. Followed these instructions and it was too easy! Thanks for taking the time to explain and show how to do this. Love your work!!
Thanks for the feedback Dave. 👍
Wis I would have watched this about 3 hours earlier. The drill technique is great. About to try it in a few with a couple others I need to remove. 👍
Hi, I have to do very similar job, but need to install air Rick instead old imperial. I couldn’t find any information on the web as to how to install air bricks into solid brick wall of an old house. I am planing to install additional two air brick at the front of the bay wall due to damp issues. One is already there placed in the middle. It is a solid brick wall house was built back in 1900. My question, due to structural integrity reasons do I need to install lintel when installing air brick. Wall is pretty thick, more than 200 mm. Would appreciate any advice really. Many thanks.
Good one mate! Very helpful as Inhave to locate a water pipe and bricks must come out. Cheers 👍👍👍
Pretty helpful
Thanks
Better than grinder, less dusty
There's less chance of damaging the bricks too, so they can be reused more easily. Cheers, Chris 👍
I've got to remove some to fix a pipe that busted one winter it's going to be a challenge but it really needs to be fixed so, I can use that faucet again.
Can you do a video of you cleaning up the brick? Thanks
reciprocating saw and mortar/brick blade. start with a drilled hole at one corner. goes through like butter
How do you avoid damaging water proofing membrane behind brick? If I do this i'll create holes and tears. Thanks.
Thank you extremely helpful
Hey mate, if you are doing this job alot, I would get an Arbortech Allsaw. They're not cheap but they do this job way quicker and they square cut on the head joint
Oh yea… at about $1000.00 it better be “alot”!
Awesome! Just what I needed to know! cheers!
Great video. This is what I am looking for. Thank You
Very helpful! Thanks for posting!
Good video. Now I can start my project.
iv used a long shank mortar rake on a small 6" angle grinder before , drill one hole top and bottom of the brick and follow the mortar course ,
Brilliant!!...Thanks for posting...It worked a treat!!
Nice one, thanks for taking the time to come back and comment. Cheers! Chris
Have you heard of clinker bricks? My fireplace has some sticking out of it like mixed in with regular style bricks and I really want to remove the clinker bricks that way I have a "normal looking fireplace" lol
Thank you. It would be more difficult if the adjacent brick was not already removed i assume ??
Is that the same proces for concrete blocks?
I have an old house to demolish that has 300 blocks which I would like to use for a fence. I was thinking of removing the roof first and then slowly going from the top surface, block by block? Thank you my friend
Say I'm trying to turn a very large window that overlooks a backyard into a sliding glass door. Taking the small number of bricks out below the window that would later become a door all at once should compromise structural integrity, right?
Hey mate have you any video how to remove plastic air brick from the wall and replace new .
Thank you
hi what brand drill bit you used. i bought a bosh and the tip broke right off.
Good job thank for sharing
My pleasure! :-)
How do you know when you are going to compromise structural integrity?
Its one brick - it cant. Bricks are arranged to distribute loads in what is called corbelling so that even removing a few bricks will only cause the weight above it to be redistributed to the bricks either side of them. Look up self corbelling for diagrams on this principle.
@@kickpublishing Kewl, thanks.
I've got a baby sparrow stuck about the kitchen window wall cavity. Is there a quicker and less noisy way?
Hi Chris the brick that I need to remove is in the middle of a walkway so the mortar underneath is holding it in. Any suggestions for removing it? I am not concerned with destroying the brick because I have spares. Thanks
I would "stitch drill" it out Chip... i.e. drill lots of holes into it with a standard masonry drill bit (6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm - it doesn't matter really). I would drill down to the exact depth of the brick, so you only just reach the mortar below. Once you've turned the whole brick into Swiss cheese, you can break it up with a hammer & thin chisel and hoover out all the bits.
Thanks good video
Thank you Robert 👍
well done!
Could you use this method to remove bricks at strategic locations in order to retie the brick to a newly framed and sheathed wall? I'm trying to get creative with a termite damage repair...an exterior wall needs to be reframed and resheathed but the brick ties would need to be cut to do so and then would need to be retied. The brick veneer is in very good shape and I'm looking for a way to retie the brick without removing the entire brick veneer.
Came cause they're tearing down my old apartment complex I grew up in and I wanna go steal a brick and have all of us that grew up there, (since we're all still friends and hangout once in a while) sign it and keep it in a nice glass case or something hahaha thanks
Great idea & help
Hi Chris
Great Video, have a question, how useful are plugging chisels for working out the mortar after using your method with the SDS drill ? Also what advantages do you see between using a brick removal chisel vs a plugging chisel and how long does a brick removal chisel last (i.e how many bricks or jobs might it last)
Cheers
George
Hi George, thank you for your comment. A lot depends on the individual situation. If you are doing a couple of bricks you can use the same stitch drilling method and then knock out the remaining mortar with a plugging chisel. The mortar on our house is made from some super-reinforced alien space dust and I had 23 bricks to remove so the brick removal chisel saved me about a week of manual chiseling. How long will a brick removal chisel last? Good question. I guess that depends on the quality of the material used in the chisel you purchase and the kind of material you are removing with it. Happy brick removing! Cheers, Chris 👍
That’s the way to do it 🥇🏆👍
I need to tear down an old brick garage and not damage the bricks so I can reuse them on the new garage. Another youtuber showed using a sawzall to cut through the mortar, but that didn’t work on my garage. The mortar is like rock. Any ideas?
Could this method be applied to thermalite/breeze blocks on the inside of the cavity, working from inside the house?
Nice one 😊
Great video! Thanks for the advice! I need an indoor "air vent brick" fitted to a damp chimney breast area. What do I do if all I see is wallpaper? In other words, I don't see the "exposed" brickwork as such, as in your video, I just see, well I guess it's plaster? Do I drill through that, until I start to see the brickwork? Then once I see a brick, and its mortar, then follow your directions in the video? So, to begin with anyway, would it be a case of "Trial and error", sort of thing?
Do you have experience with indoor air vent bricks?
Thanks a lot!
great video man
Thank you!
You can try with an oscillating saw, tho, you would need a custom blade, i've yet to come across one that has the depth of a brick wall.
Hi Aserta, yes you can use those too. Here's a 9 inch masonry cutting blade on amazon: www.amazon.com/Hitachi-752040-9-Inch-Reciprocating-Blade/dp/B0017100S8 Cheers, Chris 👍
@@christopher_barr I wouldnt expect that to last that long.
Thank you so much
My pleasure Patrick 👍
Thank you.
You're welcome Matthew 👍
@@christopher_barr It's actually hard to find these tools in the USA. I just repaired a brick retaining wall with the help of a mason, your video was super useful on how to carefully take the wall down (Save the brick, put them back up with new mortar).
Hi Matthew, I'm glad to hear that! Well done for your successful job and thank you for taking the time to thank me. Cheers, Chris 👍
Thanks for vid 👍🏻
My pleasure, thank you for your comment 👍
It’s quicker with an angle grinder mate
What’s the name of that chisel? I’m searing it on amazon not having luck
Day 46 of me learning a useless skill ill never need thanks to the internet
speak for yourself. I'm thinking about turning a window into a sliding glass door and there is brick below the window.
Well why are you watching and commenting if that's the case
Can I use any drill and any insert? I have a drill where I change the nozzle for different uses but is this a particular one with particular power? (sorry big time newbie here)
Hi there, you'll need a SDS Drill but you can get them pretty cheap these days. This is the one I have: www.screwfix.eu/titan-ttb278sds-5kg-sds-plus-hammer-drill-230-240v.html Good luck with the job! Cheers, Chris 👍
What does SDS stand for?
I'll probably need a professional mason but I had my handyman brick in a large window. He did it by eye and when finished it has an inward how to it. He SHOULD have checked to make sure it was plumb. Structurally I'd say it's ok but unhappy cosmetically. I hate to remove all the outer bricks but I don't see any other way.
Why not make things a lot quicker, simpler and therefore cheaper come to think of it.
Use a 9" grinder with a stone blade or diamond blade. Cut in to the mortar bed along the length of bricks you need, top and bottom. Don't forget your safety equipment and try not to do it off a ladder as that isn't a stable working platform! Either use scaffolding, or wait until the extension/porch/lean to is built you can then use the timber framework as a platform, as long as its sufficiently strong to hold your weight that is... REMEMBER, safety first, last and foremost.
Once you've cut the top and bottom mortar from your brick you only need to drill the mortar from the sides of your first couple of bricks, after that, you can repeat the cutting process top and bottom, except once the first couple of bricks are out, you can use a lump hammer to knock the remaing bricks a couple at a time as necessary from behind with minimal force.
DO NOT CUT THE FULL LENGTH OF THE BRICK LINE YOU WANT TO REMOVE IN ONE GO, ONLY CUT THE MORTAR OF UP TO 3 BRICKS AT A TIME, insert your tray, and then replace the bricks, BEFORE moving on to the next 3
Using this method is much much much quicker than drilling and chiseling, it also means if your house has poor mortar bonds, then you are less likely to disturb the adjoining brickwork with lots of drilling and chiseling, and you also have little chance of damaging your sometimes irriplaceable bricks (Because they're no longer made).
Even though this is a much quicker method, you should be methodical in your approach and DON'T rush any part of the job, fools rush in and usually cost themselves a lot more than the price of a tradesman to have done the job in the first place.
Take care you lot
Thanks for your comment Keith. I have seen more injuries with grinders than with any other tool (unless you count bottle openers and the subsequent effects of their use...) I have also seen the mess someone made to the bricks on my house with a grinder, where they slipped and damaged the edges of the bricks. Removing mortar with a grinder also creates a mini Sahara desert worth of dust which gets absolutely everywhere, all the way down the street and on neighbours cars, house windows etc. which doesn't exactly do wonders for relations with them. Drilling and chiseling creates a lot less dust. I agree with you that working a 9" grinder off a ladder is not safe - which is why I never suggested doing that in the first place. I would argue 'my' way is quicker simpler and cheaper than 'your' way, as putting up scaffolding takes time and money. I removed 23 bricks from the front of my house (a few at a time, like I said in the video). I didn't damage the bricks and I didn't hurt myself. I would love to know some good reliable tradesmen to do this kind of work for me but I'm afraid I am yet to find someone I trust, hence me doing the work myself.
@@christopher_barr I do tuckpointing in the states, and we use special grinders that have stackable wheels to fit the joints your working on. Also, they have vacuum attachments that suck up all that pesky dust.
Do you know Paulie?
Arbortech
this compared to arbortech is like stone age :D
Chris, is it possible to remove bricks without damage with 'manual' tools? E.g. just a hammer and chisel? I can't get a power supply to my wall and would prefer not to invest in battery-power tools for this single job.
Hi Lewis, it depends... The property in the video has mortar which is really hard to remove (it is 60 year old lime-based mortar, which is very resistant to removal via percussion). It would be possible to remove a brick from this property using just a hammer and chisel/s but I would estimate that it would take me something like 4 - 8 hours to remove a single brick. I guess it depends on how many brick you need to remove, what kind of mortar the wall is made with, and how much you value your time. Good luck and let us know how you get on. Cheers, Chris 👍
Thanks a lot for the reply Chris. Makes sense.
My pleasure Lewis, good luck with your project.
If u care about ur health 😂😂🤣 that got me ngl
Was there a problem with the tray ?
Yes, the lead flashing above the lintel was laid in a single 9 foot section, and over time this had split. (Modern practice is to lay lead in maximum 4 foot sections, to allow for differential thermal expansion and contraction, without the lead splitting) I replaced the whole section of lead with PVC cavity trays. I made another short video about this too. Cheers, Chris 👍
Random Chris
Did the replacement trays cure the problem? I was curious because you fixed the shingles and flashing over it after?
I wanted to increase the airflow around that area so the plan was always to add a bunch of airbricks and then add the shingles (these have openings at each end) to allow a good throughflow of air and at the same time keep any wind-driven rainwater out. I had also planned to build the pitched roof above the porch (as seen in another video) so the shingles were also an aesthetic addition to 'tie that in' to the front of the house.
iam savaging historical brick but never done it before can someone help me
please
+Rene Ancar Hi Rene, I would have hoped that this video would have helped... What would you like to know exactly? Cheers, Chris
hey my names chris, and i lay brick too
dude how about using a grinder with masonry saw blade cut around your Brick and then just bust it out with your demo hammer
Disadvantages of using a grinder for this job:
*1. Dangerous* - grinders are one of the most dangerous tools for DIYers to use. Tons of people get injured from kickbacks, especially if they are not experts (this video is for DIYers). An SDS drill can be used up a ladder, like I did, safely - a grinder requires scaffolding or some other kind of stable platform, which costs $$$.
*2. Dusty* - there is a small amount of dust created using 'my' method but this just falls straight down. When you cut masonry with a grinder you get about 100 times more dust and it shoots out a long way from where you are working. Not only is this unpleasant for the person doing the job, but also for others (you will dirty all your neighbour's windows, cars etc. which is a great way to annoy people)
*3. Bricks get damaged* - unless you are a real expert in using a grinder, it is inevitable that the bricks will suffer cuts when cutting out the mortar with a grinder. I know on my house you can see where someone has used a grinder in the past to remove some mortar and they have made a real mess of some of the bricks. These bricks are no longer made, so you can't replace them like for like.
That's why I recommend using the technique above for DIYers who need to re-use the bricks they are removing.
Not a clue. Going to drill and chisel and not damage. How many years you have?
Only problem I will take a year to remove
I guess it's OK if your trying to save the brick but why would u be pulling out a perfect brick and then reusing it, makes no sense
I had to remove 23 bricks from the front of our property to address damp (I had to clean out the cavity and replace lead cracked lead flashing with cavity trays). The bricks I removed are no longer made and the closest alternative bricks look different and are a different size. Using the technique in the video I was able to remove the bricks without damaging them. Cheers, Chris
Christopher Barr - Random Chris this is why I stay away from repairs lol
Laughing...EXCELLENT!
now i can use these when im in prison
By not going to prison in the first place. You will be saving your self 25 to 100 years of labor. If you feel you must commit a crime you should sneak a drill in by using your prison pocket have a buddy bring in the chisel and drill bits as I don't quite think all three will fit inside a rectum.
This method is obsolete. Just use a saw, skill saw, chop saw, 7-9 inch grinder and or hammer drill on the hammer selection and call it a day
10 years later and job should be finished
That's the hardest way to get a brick out this day and age
Then please explain or post another video with method, thanks!
Then, what is an easier way?
🫡
Smash the brick out and buy new ones
They don't make them any more - that's the whole point!
@Female Dance Fitness please no name calling that hurts. It can make somebody hurt themselves
Just buy a new house, easier.
😂