Mike, I am a first time tractor owner. I have watched everyone of your videos and they have been extremely helpful. I like the way you present ...very necessary for first time owners! Thank you!
I retrofitted several of my implements to work with my quick hitch. I welded a simple trailer axle hanger to the 3pt mounts, bolted a grade 8 1" or 3/4" bolt through their holes. 20 minutes & roughly $20 & I'm ready to go. Keep it simple & go to work!
Excellent advice, mike. When i was younger & in better shape, hookups were not an issue. I'm a little older, & have been hit pretty hard with arthritis in the last several years. Just getting on & off of my jd 3005 can be excruciating at times. Therefore, it was worth it to me to modify my implements to fit the quick hitch. I can easily see its not for everybody, but in my case, its a must have item.....
I agree if you have a bunch of different ones it may or may not be worth it. I bought mine because I only have a brush hog and a box blade. I had to fix my box blade to adapt it to the quick hitch. And I have no problems switching back and forth now. But again I only have 2 implements
thanks Mike! I bought a tractor a couple of years ago, and with the help of your videos, i think i made a good choice. You helped me make choices that have worked well for me. I want to emphasize the "make choices that have worked for me". You provide info that one can use to make better decisions regarding what THEY want/need to have a good experience. My flail mower (with hammers now) is much more compact than a "brush hog" and frequently is used to break down miscellaneous plant/tree parts in addition to mowing the farm grass. During the summer it stays on my tractor all summer unless i need to use something else--it feels strange to drive without it. A REAL reason i might not "want" a quick hitch may be that i have few attachments. I want to have a tool carrier but "i just use the flail mower so much"; until today i did not even have a rake attachment to pull together (when desired) the cut and/or pulverized plant matter left by the mower. If i had a tool carrier, i could go out do the work i need to do and then swing back and swap out for the mower and do the cleanup.
Hi Mike, Great video on quick hitch 3 point cat 1. One thing I would like to point out you is when you showed the upper link adapter you had it hooked up wrong. The fork end of the adapter goes on the same pin as the upper link arm that shortens the length of the upper link adapter. I have the same quick hitch as you. Thanks, GF.
Mike this is a great video for someone considering a quick hitch. I just got one and have been messing with the fittings, so here is a topic that you could add to the videos. The lower lift arm hooks on the quick hitch seem to be designed for 1 7/16 which is Cat 3. So, one needs bushings for a good fit. One could do without one, like you show in the videos - but from a stress distribution on the lift, it is beneficial to distribute the load. It needs a Cat 1 - Cat 3 bushing size which I have started shopping for, rather than pay the $42 the manufacturers sell them for. A less crucial element, but something have been doing is making up different thickness bushings for the top link, to fudge the errors between implements so it fits across more of the implements.
Thanks Mike. I bought an 8 foot mower that seemed a quick hitch was the best solution to operate it. Had no idea what to do about the top link. Had no idea that an adapter existed. Ran straight to Rural King and found one on a shelf next to the quick hitch display.
That's exactly why I like my lower link only quick hitches. It leaves me the flexibility to maneuver the top link appropriately. Thanks for the video Mike!
Well, I was just about to order one...then you said it’s not compatible with an auger. Man, you don’t know how much I appreciate you saving me all the trouble. I have a JD 950, and I’d just about rather take a beating than hook up the auger. But then again it may be worth it just for the bush hog. Thanks for the info...greatly appreciated.
Mike, one thing I experienced with my QH is where the top link hook is bolted to the QH. I removed the 1/2" bolts and used tow pins, same kind as used for a trailer receiver. I have a Kubota BX with a Land Pride blade that bottomed out on the bolt heads and nuts. I have a Rural King QH that looks exactly like yours and actually thought it was until I saw your link. Great video spot on! Thanks Marvin
Thanks for a very informative video! Y, the Quick Hitch, when it works, is fantastic. When it doesn't work, it is the most frustrating piece of equipment I have ever owned. Agree w all your points. Lol, now I know how to put that adapter thingy on for implements with insufficient space behind the top pin, and yes, unfortunately it does change the angles, so that would only be effective for some implements, hope it works with mine! Someone below mentioned a tip n tilt kit and I will check that out. For my seed spreader, I just modified how the top pin hook is connected and secured it with only one bolt since the implement is not going to torque there as maybe a bush hog or a box blade would... But I will try the adapter thingy!!! One thing you neglected to mention is some implements are a different height between top and bottom pins, and I have to take out two bolts and change the position of the top pin hook in the quick hitch; sometimes it also doesn't go quite high enough! In any case, those bolts should be pins with clips for easy changing; they're 1/2 inch and so far I haven't found them as most of those pins are 5/8 inch; but I'll keep looking or else maybe custom make some using a 1/2 inch bolt and having someone drill through it if said person thinks that would be ok. Also, for the box blade, since the bottom pins are between two sides of the frame, I will actually have to take the pins out and have someone cut the fat part out of the bushing and put it back together. Mine is a Mahindra Quick Hitch on a Mahindra 1538 tractor. Again, thanks for the informative video!!!
Jane, I think I actually installed the adapter thingy the wrong way. If you install it right you may not change the angles, but you have to get off the tractor to put it on. I have it on my list to correct that, and figure out the right way to put it on, unfortunately, those things don't come with instructions.
Tractor Mike right... anyway it didn’t help as it made the seed spreader very unlevel. I still used it but not ideal. The next try will be to reverse the bolt holding the bin to the frame and that will buy mean another 1/2 inch horizontally for the top hook to fit; for the vertical space I may get the hook shaved off some so it will fit better. When I borrowed my neighbor’s the work-around was to use the regular hook but reposition it crooked and only attached with one bolt. Will see.
Thanks for the video Mike, I use mine on everthing but a post hole digger, I unbolted and took the top hook off my quick hitch and now I just pin my implements top link into the desired hole that the top hook use to bolt into, hard to describe but it works perfectly, on my brush hog I have to get off the tractor anyways to hookup the driveline so I just put the top link in the desired hole where the hook use to be and pin it. It use to take me 15 mins to hookup my brush hog not to mention how upset I would get on and off the tractor trying to move the brush hog with brute force, now its a 3 min job and I love not having to adjust the slack in the lower links. Thanks again Mike
Mike, I recently bought a new tractor and requested all the impliments be quick hitch compatible. I went one step further and also ordered a top n tilt kit to go along with the quick hitch. This is an ideal setup for a box blade. You may want to do a video on a top n tilt, I know not all people even know what it is. I have learned a lot from your channel, keep up the good work. Robert Lee
Great channel, Mike. Here's my 2 cents on the Quick Hitch, fwiw. If you like it, buy it. The Quick Hitch sort of depends on a stationary top link connection to easily hook onto, like a blade, plow or rake. This works fine for mules without telescoping links, or for swapping implements with that rigid top link connection. Also, if the tool uses a PTO, you still have to get off the seat to hook up the PTO shaft. I haven't figured out how to easily use a QH with an implement that has a loose top link connection like a tiller or a mower. How does that loose top pin stay in the hook? My mower has a U-shaped top link connection that pivots, allowing this connection to move forwards and backwards, allowing the implement to pivot on the bottom pins, and floats over the contour of the ground. You probably understand this 'rigid vs floating' concept, but for the rookies, I'll try to explain the way an old pro taught me. To imagine your machine moving forward across your land, sketch a rough side view showing the tractor with the front and rear tires. Draw a flat line between the bottoms of the tires and extend it out towards the rear. Now sketch a blade hanging off the back. Place a ruler on that line and tilt it up and down, pivoting it at the rear tire contact point - simulating the tractor approaching a rise or a drop-off. With a rigid top link connection, if the front tires drop down into a ditch, the blade will raise up away from the ground. If you raise the front tires to go forward up that rise, the blade must drop down and will dig into the soil. This is why brush hogs usually require a tail wheel and a flail has a roller to prevent scalping. This is where the floating top link connection comes in. With a movable top connection, the implement will pivot on the bottom pins and the rear of the implement will float up and down on the ground. It took me a while to understand this 'rigid vs floating' concept. I learned this well the first time I tried to grade a path with a rear blade. Now I know why real road graders have the blade - between - the wheels, not hung off the back. I know, I know, way too much information ;^) Anyway, keep these great videos coming.
Great video Mike! I just increased my top hook length , solved about 80% of my problems. Sure is a back saver as I get older! Well worth a little re-engineering and welding. Keep up the good work! Thanks for taking the time making the videos!
Replace the bolts holding the top hook with pins, then, if you have a non-quick hitch compatible implement, remove the pins holding the hook, invert the hook and slide it down over the top pin on your implement... replace the pins holding the hook... it’s no longer a “quick hitch” but it’s easier than modifying your implement and the rock rake will no longer have that acute angle from the adapter.
One more thing to think about is if you trailer your tractor from job to job. I have a John Deere 4520 with a Bush Hog 286 rotary mower deck on the back. I trailer it on a 14,000 GVWR Bri-Mar equipment trailer with a 20' flat deck. When I put the tractor on, I back onto the trailer. I do that because of not only the weight distribution, but in order to load it on the trailer, I have to curl the bucket all the way down so the ramps can come up to the travel position, and the tail wheel over hangs the front to the point it just barely misses the jack. If I had a quick hitch that extra couple of inches of length wouldn't work. It's easy to say get a longer trailer if you have the money, But a 20' trailer is about as long as you're likely to find in stock. At least in an equipment trailer configuration. I usually mow about 45 fields so The tractor spends quite a bit of time on the trailer and as much as I'd like to have one, a quick hitch would be a problem for me.
Thank's Mike for the informative video. I was considering a quick hitch but after viewing your post, opted against it. Although majority of my implements are "Land Pride" ergo similar 3-point attachment design, it seemed to me that cons outweighed pros for my potential use. I find the most painful part of implement installation is the PTO shaft and spline, better put, the on and off of "grease" dedicated gloves 😃 and the Quick Hitch does not address that problem 😉 So thank you for saving me money!
I bought a quick hitch and returned it the same day. I had all the same problems you did Mike, plus I'm Cat 2 and have a few Cat 1 implements still around. I always felt the quick hitch was a hairy homeowner device and after owning one for a day it proved my theory. Glad some people like them though. Good video!
NothnRunsLikeADeere : Funny, because I did the exact same thing as you did! Bought a Harbor Freight Category 1 quick hitch. Got it home and installed it, hoping for the best, but had a gut feeling it wasn't gonna be so great after all. Went to use it on multiple different pieces of Category 1 and Cat 2 equipment that I own. It only worked on very few of the Cat 1 implements, and obviously, none of the Cat 2 implements. I was so disappointed & irritated that it didn't work on 2/3rds of my attachments, that I returned it the same day. 3-point quick hitches are a great concept, in theory. They will be adequate if you are always hooking to the same implements that it does happen to coincide with. Then, they are okay. Otherwise, they ain't worth a shit. That's what we get for being lazy. 3-point quick hitches are just a waste of time and money in the vast majority of situations. That hokey Pat's quick hitch is pretty much crap too. You have to have a longer top (center) link to work with them, AND the lower draft arms are a pain to keep in the right place while trying to attact an implement, due to side-sway. Unless you have rigid-style (very uncommon) adjustable anti-sway links on the tractor's 3-point lower draft/lift arms, where you can "lock-out" the draft arms ability to side sway prior to attaching to an implement, you'll dislike them.
mike, I just watched this video and I can't believe you of all people have this Quick Hitch set up this way. Now I know you're absolutely right about some things not fitting the bottom of the QH. I have a single bottom plow that is way too narrow but hey, I use it once maybe twice a year and my post hole auger of coarse won't fit. But that's talking about the bottom. Mike, my rake is QH ready so no worries but, my brush cutter is not. My brush cutter has a brace just like the one you depicted on your rake but seriously Mike, you? You disappoint me. Why would anyone purchase an "adaptor" when all I do for QH reality is adjust the top hook! It's so crazy simple! Leave out the stupid bolts that everyone puts on the top hook and use hitch pins....... There's a lot of people reading this right now saying "duh", that is a no brainer. I only (in most cases) use one hitch pin so when I back up to an implement I swing my hook up out of the way, hook to the tool with the bottom of the QH locking it in place then lower it and remove the hitch pin set the hook in place under the hook bolt, adjust it to the best hole and replace the hitch pin. Another peeve is that people showing these QH's always unlock them before hooking up. Why???? A QH is designed to hook up to an attachment while in the locked position. It pushes the locking mechanism in allowing the pins to enter but they can't pop back out like they can when unlocked. Has about another video Mike on the QH? This time make it a reality common sense video and show how to use one in the real world for those who don't know. And I know, I know, I'll get flack about safety or something but come on, I've been using my QH every since they came out I through those two bolts out the first day and I've been using the adjustable hitch pin every since without a single fail. I do love your videos, and if I didn't give you a hard time who would? Lol Your friend and subscriber from Lithia, FL. -Russ
Great video! I also use Pat's Quick Hitch. Best purchase I ever made. The second best purchase was an extra long top link. The quick hitch extends the lower arms by a couple inches. My standard top link became too short. With the extra long link, it works fantastic. Keep up the great videos!
Great video!!!! All my implements work with my quick hitch!!!! Most new implements meet the manufacturing spec. for the class of hitch. Mixing old and new implements is where you have problems. I get every one I have modified for my quick hitch. I connect in seconds every implement I have. My post hole digger is the only problem I have!!! I have to remove the quick hitch to install the post hole digger, Luckily I only dig post holes a couple of times a year. Again thanks for the great straight forward honest video!!!!
Mike, I bought a small tractor which has a backhoe for small needs around the farm. When I take the backhoe off and put on the 3 point, With the backhoe frame in place, the 3 point arms hit the frame and will not allow lifting implements. Some of the implements for my larger tractor would work, but I cannot get the width due to the backhoe frame.....this appears that it might be the solution albeit work will probably have to be done to modify the fit. ...thanks for the video.
I have a hydraulic Top link and a quick hitch. Every implement I have works except my seed spreader. The top hook is lower than the top link part of the seeder. I’m going to make an adapter for it only and I won’t have any more issues. As someone who is disabled the quick hitch and top link are a life saver. I only have to get on my tractor once and I can do all the cutting, disking and smoothing I need. Though they aren’t for everyone it works well in my favor
I just added a SpeeCo e-hitch to my John Deere 1025R (no bushings required for Cat 1). For 15 years prior I used a Ford 640 and not a quick hitch. Took 20 minutes sometimes and a lot of pounding and nautical language to change implements.. Sooooo much easier (once you have it adjusted) to swap implements with the e-hitch. Now it takes 2 minutes. I have the Bolt On Hooks quick pins instead of bolts for the top hook as one 20 years old carry-all I use requires me to move the top hook. An extra two minutes.
On my quick hitch you don’t have to manually disengage and engage the latch handles to attach an implement. The latches, at least on mine, are spring loaded, and automatically latch the lower implement mounts into the bracket.
I bought the Pat's quick hitch and so far, love it. The only issue I've found is I need a longer top link. Really not much longer is needed but just a few inches. I can't wait to hook up my brush hog, just waiting for my new grass to grow. I love your videos, I recently went from a 51 Ferguson to a 2017 3901 Kubota and, the differences are amazing.
Add one advantage to a quick hitch: My bush hog on a smaller tractor without live power requires an overrun clutch. If I had a quick hitch I could hook up my finish mower without taking off the overrun clutch and without cutting the PTO shaft on the finish mower, which it just about 1/2" too long to clip on the tractor with the overrun clutch installed.
I bought a cheap, black quick hitch from the Freight near the Harbor if you catch my drift :) I ended up returning it because of the negatives you mentioned here. It only fit one of my implements which kind-of defeated the purpose. I didn't want to either modify all of my stuff or sell it and buy QH compatible stuff so I just took the thing back. I did, however, find a quick hitch that worked with any implement. It's call the Pat's Quick Hitch. They sell it at Northern Tool, or you can order online. Tractor Supply sells a knock-off version but it's not nearly as good and not worth the tiny discount. The way it works is, it's a separate, individual quick hitch for each lower arm. You use the same top link you use currently. The lower arms are the hard part anyway to get lined up, the top link is usually no problem. So, you back up to your implement until the pins hit both sides, then lift up until they lock into place, then you get off the tractor and hook up the top link. This works with a post hole digger also since you just connect the top just like you do without the quick hitch. It's width adjustable also. They sell a bar that connects the 2 sides to stabilize it (keep the width stationary) . If your tractor has the telescoping link arms like mine, you don't need the stabilizer bar. One more advantage to the cheap quick hitch is you buy either a category 1 or category 2 version. The cat1 links are actually 7/8", not larger, requiring you to get those adapters for all of your implements, of have it rattle around. All of my stuff is cat1 so I don't need to buy the cat2 version. For the ends of the pins (on the implements) they give you some bent washers that prevent the hitch sides from sliding off the end. They're pretty basic and I just made some more following their pattern.
I have a 60" rotary mower and a 60" finish mower and a carry all I use and with this hitch changes are a breeze. Before I got it I sometimes could spend an hour frigging to get the brush cutter on, Uneven ground, heavy attachment and tight space between the tractor and attachment made for some frustrating times. Now I switch between with out any thought, I just curse the PTO sometimes. I bought a new B2601 Kubota and the attachments are quick hitch compatible
Nice video, Mike. I think I have the. Same quick hitch. It is a BIG time saver. I was not aware of the fitting that go in the link arm pins. Those should take most of the shake and wobble out. Keep up the great work!
Hey Tractor Mike, I own a New Holland TC40 and a New Holland 4.75. I've had a lot of experience with different brands of quick hitches and if there is one thing I've learned it's the fact that there is nothing universal about a universal quick hitch. Every brand is made slightly different and unfortunately they do not all work as advertised. The one brand that has worked best out of all of them is SpeeCo. They work with every implement that is quick hitch compatible unlike several of the other brands. I now only buy implements that are quick hitch compatible because I'm tired of kicking and cussing all the 3 point implements that are not! Keep up the good work on all the videos you post! Sincerely, Glenn Sanders Republic MO
Mike, another safety note...When going to a quick hitch, be sure to inspect the drive shaft of your pto driven implements...Be sure that you have 4"to 6" overlap of the drive shaft...ends...
Take the bolts out of your top hook and replace with hitch pins. It may add thirty seconds to connect your implements but big deal. I also adapted my quick hitch with a 2” receiver for my winch and a skidder face for my firewood production
I have a JD quick hitch on my JD 2032r. I use it to hook/unhook my JD MX5. I was looking at a Land Pride FDR 1660 finish mower, but if you use it with a quich hitch, you can't float the front end. Which pretty much negates the use of a finish mower.
Gotta watch quick hitches too if you keep them on while towing a draw bar implement like a batwing rotary cutter, the bottom corners of the quick hitch can hit the PTO shaft in turns and off camber situations. For us the quick hitch is a HUGE time saver since our hay mower uses the lower 3pt arms to be drawn so hooking up and dropping the mower and switch to the hay rake is a huge time saver
The quick hitch moves the implement to the rear by several inches. With implements using a PTO shaft make sure there is enough shaft overlap with it in the rear position. Bad things can happen if not!
I have a kubota/land pride quick hitch and mostly land pride implements...I bought a land pride tiller and the Land Pride website said QH compatible, but after buying it, I read the owners manual and it says you can't use the QH if you run the tiller offset
There is another type of quick hitch that I feel is a lot more versatile. Not sure if I should mention the name. It is separate hooks that go on the lower arms only. Then you connect the top link as normal. With those lower link hooks and a hydraulic top link, I can change implements without getting off the tractor, just reach behind the seat to connect the top link. I change out a lot working at the hunting camp. Best thing I ever did to my tractor!
All your PTO's cut to fit are now 4 inches short. You'll need to also get a push pin 6 spline female to 6 spline male or 21 spline depending on your tractor that extends the PTO 4 inches.
I normally wouldn't recommend harbor freight.. But in my comparison... harbor freight's quick hitch appears to be the exact same as everyone else's quick hitch (likely the same China origin). w 20% coupon.. got mine for $79... very heavy and well built for HF item.... But again... visual inspection puts it as being the same as this Amazon hitch as well as the northern tool version and others. Happy w it. Thx for the overview regardless.
I know this is an old video, but you are using the top hook adapter wrongly. The harbor freight book shows you how to use it. Also tractor supply sells an attachment link to use on the top hook if it isn't compatible
Very informative. Thanks for the info. on specific cat 1 27" width. That helps a lot. Looking at putting one on a Farmall Cub to use small cat 1 implements with a 26 1/4" pin spacing.
The plusses outweigh the negatives if you have attachments to change. It is definitely worth modifying attachments to work with it. If you have a category 1 small tractor and all your attachments will be for that tractor you can get a quick hitch made for category 1 attachments and not have to purchase adaptors for the attachments, that is what I did. After having a quick hitch making all the changes in attachments so easy it is only a matter of a couple of minutes to change any of them. Maybe add a minute or two at the most for attachments with PTO shafts. On the other hand if someone has category 1 and category 2 tractors and would share implements one would need to use adaptors for one or the other. I did modify a wood chipper that was not quick hitch to work and it was not all that difficult just moving a bolt hole and using a couple of spacer adaptors to get the size right for the top attachment. Quick hitch is the only way to go if you want to put easy in changing attachments. If they are too hard to change it's easy to just say it's not worth all the work to put it on for a little job so you don't do it.
Well first of all I have a quick hitch on a kubota b 2320 for about 3 years now. That top link adaptor dosent go on that top link hook like you had it. you remove that hood and put that adaptor in place of that hook.
Mike, I just put on a quick hitch for my Massey 2706. All my attachments are Woods, so i keep it uniform. I am having a hard time finding a 3 point spreader that is quick hitch compatible. Can you do a video on this? It seems to be a hot topic in my area. The only one I found is the countyline which is Tractor Supply’s model. Thanks
Great video Mike. I have a quick hitch and a lot of different size and shaped attachments. I use the universal top link on all of my equipment. If I am correct the owners manual calls to remove the hook from the quick hitch when using the universal top link. This allowed everything to hang correctly from the hitch not the way it was on the rake you connected on your tractor. I do have to get off the tractor each and every time. PS. I love all you videos. Thanks for your hard work.
I've a Areins GT20 could YOU PLEASE tell Me about using the 3 point hitch? what do you call that turn buckle at the top? it has a mower deck and a front PTO.... thanx!
If one has 4 welders like I do, fabricating proper adapters to make fit is not a difficult thing. But as you pointed out, if one is not a welder/fabricator, life can get difficult.
I bought a quick hitch Cat 2 once and ASSumed that since the different category pins were standardized that the widths were too. WROOOONG!!! About half my implements fit and the other half didn't . For me the problem came into play with implements that have a clevis style hookup for the lower control arms. Different manufacturers make their implements with different widths between mounting spots and also different clearances within the clevis hookup. The real pisser was that several were off by just half an inch. The quick hitch I bought was over 100 lbs and I didn't feel like trying to manhandle that thing every time I needed to take it off or reinstall it for different equipment so I sold it without ever using it. I could have probably cut it down and rewelded it but it just didn't seem worth the trouble.
Three point hookups are a pain, with or without a quick hitch. That said, if you take the time to mate your attachments to your quick hitch, it is better [imo]. Now as far as the PTO.....
The hitch on Amazon looks exactly like the QH from Harbor Freight, I mean exactly. The pic is the exact same (including welding imperfections and all). That said, I wonder if this is coming from the same manufacturer in China. If so, buy it from HF for $99.99 and find one of their 20% off coupons vs $169.73 on Amazon...
Jeff, I think you'll have to scrap the factory pins and get some longer ones and put the stabilizers around them. They won't go inside where the lower links go will they? I hadn't thought about that but I can see it being a problem on that style of stabilizers.
That's a question I don't know the answer to but I really don't think so. I think the Allis would have to be converted to three point before the quick hitch would work. Maybe one of the channel viewers will know for sure. I'd be shocked if there was any way to make either system work with a snap coupler.
I just bought a iMatch hitch (pricey eh?) No matter how I've tried, I cannot hook the hitch up to a King Kutter landscape rake. I think your advice of buying implements from the same vendor would eliminate a lot of frustration. However, I already have many third party implements. I wish I had seen your video to understand some of third party implements are not going to work without major changes to either the implement or the hitch.
Very informative video Mike, thanks! I often wonder though about extra stress on the tractor's 3-points mounts from the implement being extended reward. Don't know if that's an issue or not.
It would add to the stress but most three points are built for it. I've only seen a three point break one time in my life and it was on our farm and we had to put it in a pretty severe bind to snap it off. Local welding guru fixed it and it never gave us any more problems. Normally they can take about all the stress you can put on them.
My quick hitches work with all my equipment except my box blade, and one plow. I have to use the adapter to hook them up, but I don't use the plow, or the box blade that much.
Ive also noticed that the quick hitch changes the effective total height that you can lift your implements. Mike, where did you get those quick hitch lower arm bushings ? I need a bunch of them.
Best thing is to order them off Amazon. I have what's called an "Influencer Site" that has stuff I use and recommend, they're down at the bottom if you click on this link: www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1QDZ7XPK57E49/ref=cm_wl_huc_view.
Bevis Butthead. You might want to price Tractor supply. That is where I bought mine, but you stated you needed a bunch so you can probably save some money buying online through harbor freight.
On your blade that doesn't fit, it looks like it might just barely if you move the lock washer to the other side of the frame, under the nut.. ( little hard to tell from the video )
John Deere is the only company that makes ASAE Certified catagory 1, 2 & 3 quick hitches. Most King Kutter implement work with the John Deere quick It is John Deere who invented the 3pt quick couplers back in the 60s
Great video, Mike. I have a 70 hp tractor with both cat I and cat II holes on the arms. Could I still use the cat I quick hitch or will the tractor hp be too much for it? The implements I have now (box blade and rotary cutter) are cat I. Thanks
Larry, I really don't know. A lot depends on how hard you work the implements. I could probably tell you when I've had it a few years but right now I just can't predict.
Larry Braley Not using quick hitch but the tractor can't be too powerful. The driver might not limit himself on how much he tries to pull etc. but that is driver error. If the implement is cat 1 it was probably not (unless both 1&2) made for a too big tractor using all its power on it. So it might fail instead of the quick hitch.
Larry Braley : Yes, you can use it just fine. Personally, I have no use for quick hitches. Except for in a few situations, there's really nothing "quick" about them, far as I'm concerned.
Two questions for you sir. Does lengthening the distance between the Tractor and lift arms (~ 4”) affect lifting capacity of the hitch, and how much overlap is correct, or not enough, for the drive shaft? Thanks, Steve
A few years late, but lengthening the distance between the lift arms and tractor will slightly reduce your lift capacity of course, plus the weight of the quick hitch, but pretty negligible. For the drive shaft of a PTO implement after adding a quick hitch you'll have to make sure you still have about 2" of shaft overlap to be safe. The PTO shaft for my roto-tiller was too short after adding my quick hitch, I bought a PTO shaft extension that goes on the end of the PTO shaft of the tractor which worked...except in my case I installed that adapter on the tiller because its my only PTO implement and if I get other implements in the future that use the PTO I'll simply cut the shaft to the right length to accommodate the quick hitch. If I recall most times your PTO implement's manual will say a minimum of 2 inches of overlap on the 2 PTO shaft halves to be safe for operation...but double check the manual for your particular application to be sure.
True that if you frequently use a post hole digger, you have to remove your top link. I just remove the last attachment used and leave the QH on it. But in your second point, you're showing the toplink adapter installed incorrectly. You attach the adapter to where your top link pins to the quick hitch - several inches toward the tractor. When not using the adapter, it swings out of the way. No wonder your rake droops down so far! Too bad folks see this and get steered away from the incorrect demo. Yes it does take some time to set up initially for each implement, but for those of us with limited physical lifting capability, it is a real saver.
Largest issue I've had with my quick hitch is the fact it seems to make my PTO shaft just a bit too short to use for my rotary cutter . Which of course is the main reason I bought the quick hitch .
Tractor Mike bought Pats, good price at Agri Supply, because of the issues you mention. I'm not trying to hook up without getting out of the seat, but want to retire the mattock/pick I use to maneuver implements to the pins😡
Mike, I am a first time tractor owner. I have watched everyone of your videos and they have been extremely helpful. I like the way you present ...very necessary for first time owners! Thank you!
Thanks for watching👍!
I retrofitted several of my implements to work with my quick hitch. I welded a simple trailer axle hanger to the 3pt mounts, bolted a grade 8 1" or 3/4" bolt through their holes. 20 minutes & roughly $20 & I'm ready to go. Keep it simple & go to work!
Excellent advice, mike. When i was younger & in better shape, hookups were not an issue. I'm a little older, & have been hit pretty hard with arthritis in the last several years. Just getting on & off of my jd 3005 can be excruciating at times. Therefore, it was worth it to me to modify my implements to fit the quick hitch. I can easily see its not for everybody, but in my case, its a must have item.....
Thanks Mike! You're the best resource on tractors on the Internet.
I agree if you have a bunch of different ones it may or may not be worth it. I bought mine because I only have a brush hog and a box blade. I had to fix my box blade to adapt it to the quick hitch. And I have no problems switching back and forth now. But again I only have 2 implements
thanks Mike!
I bought a tractor a couple of years ago, and with the help of your videos, i think i made a good choice.
You helped me make choices that have worked well for me. I want to emphasize the "make choices that have worked for me".
You provide info that one can use to make better decisions regarding what THEY want/need to have a good experience.
My flail mower (with hammers now) is much more compact than a "brush hog" and frequently is used to break down miscellaneous plant/tree parts in addition to mowing the farm grass. During the summer it stays on my tractor all summer unless i need to use something else--it feels strange to drive without it.
A REAL reason i might not "want" a quick hitch may be that i have few attachments.
I want to have a tool carrier but "i just use the flail mower so much"; until today i did not even have a rake attachment to pull together (when desired) the cut and/or pulverized plant matter left by the mower.
If i had a tool carrier, i could go out do the work i need to do and then swing back and swap out for the mower and do the cleanup.
Hi Mike, Great video on quick hitch 3 point cat 1. One thing I would like to point out you is when you showed the upper link adapter you had it hooked up wrong. The fork end of the adapter goes on the same pin as the upper link arm that shortens the length of the upper link adapter. I have the same quick hitch as you. Thanks, GF.
Mike this is a great video for someone considering a quick hitch. I just got one and have been messing with the fittings, so here is a topic that you could add to the videos. The lower lift arm hooks on the quick hitch seem to be designed for 1 7/16 which is Cat 3. So, one needs bushings for a good fit. One could do without one, like you show in the videos - but from a stress distribution on the lift, it is beneficial to distribute the load. It needs a Cat 1 - Cat 3 bushing size which I have started shopping for, rather than pay the $42 the manufacturers sell them for. A less crucial element, but something have been doing is making up different thickness bushings for the top link, to fudge the errors between implements so it fits across more of the implements.
Thanks Mike. I bought an 8 foot mower that seemed a quick hitch was the best solution to operate it. Had no idea what to do about the top link. Had no idea that an adapter existed. Ran straight to Rural King and found one on a shelf next to the quick hitch display.
It really comes down to what you have. If you have quick hitch comparable implements on the equipment you use the most the they are amazing.
That's exactly why I like my lower link only quick hitches. It leaves me the flexibility to maneuver the top link appropriately. Thanks for the video Mike!
interesting. i have not seen those.
Well, I was just about to order one...then you said it’s not compatible with an auger. Man, you don’t know how much I appreciate you saving me all the trouble. I have a JD 950, and I’d just about rather take a beating than hook up the auger. But then again it may be worth it just for the bush hog. Thanks for the info...greatly appreciated.
Very helpful. Better to hear about various compatibility problems now than find out after you buy something. Thanks.
Mike, one thing I experienced with my QH is where the top link hook is bolted to the QH. I removed the 1/2" bolts and used tow pins, same kind as used for a trailer receiver. I have a Kubota BX with a Land Pride blade that bottomed out on the bolt heads and nuts. I have a Rural King QH that looks exactly like yours and actually thought it was until I saw your link. Great video spot on! Thanks Marvin
Did that the first thing when I bought mine from tractor supply when they first started selling them....
Now they sell the Pat's quick hitch.
Thanks for a very informative video! Y, the Quick Hitch, when it works, is fantastic. When it doesn't work, it is the most frustrating piece of equipment I have ever owned. Agree w all your points. Lol, now I know how to put that adapter thingy on for implements with insufficient space behind the top pin, and yes, unfortunately it does change the angles, so that would only be effective for some implements, hope it works with mine! Someone below mentioned a tip n tilt kit and I will check that out. For my seed spreader, I just modified how the top pin hook is connected and secured it with only one bolt since the implement is not going to torque there as maybe a bush hog or a box blade would... But I will try the adapter thingy!!! One thing you neglected to mention is some implements are a different height between top and bottom pins, and I have to take out two bolts and change the position of the top pin hook in the quick hitch; sometimes it also doesn't go quite high enough! In any case, those bolts should be pins with clips for easy changing; they're 1/2 inch and so far I haven't found them as most of those pins are 5/8 inch; but I'll keep looking or else maybe custom make some using a 1/2 inch bolt and having someone drill through it if said person thinks that would be ok. Also, for the box blade, since the bottom pins are between two sides of the frame, I will actually have to take the pins out and have someone cut the fat part out of the bushing and put it back together. Mine is a Mahindra Quick Hitch on a Mahindra 1538 tractor. Again, thanks for the informative video!!!
Jane, I think I actually installed the adapter thingy the wrong way. If you install it right you may not change the angles, but you have to get off the tractor to put it on. I have it on my list to correct that, and figure out the right way to put it on, unfortunately, those things don't come with instructions.
Tractor Mike right... anyway it didn’t help as it made the seed spreader very unlevel. I still used it but not ideal. The next try will be to reverse the bolt holding the bin to the frame and that will buy mean another 1/2 inch horizontally for the top hook to fit; for the vertical space I may get the hook shaved off some so it will fit better. When I borrowed my neighbor’s the work-around was to use the regular hook but reposition it crooked and only attached with one bolt. Will see.
Thanks Mike 4 the 3 points for a 3 point hitch. I am a new tree farmer and learned a lot from you
Thanks for the video Mike, I use mine on everthing but a post hole digger, I unbolted and took the top hook off my quick hitch and now I just pin my implements top link into the desired hole that the top hook use to bolt into, hard to describe but it works perfectly, on my brush hog I have to get off the tractor anyways to hookup the driveline so I just put the top link in the desired hole where the hook use to be and pin it. It use to take me 15 mins to hookup my brush hog not to mention how upset I would get on and off the tractor trying to move the brush hog with brute force, now its a 3 min job and I love not having to adjust the slack in the lower links. Thanks again Mike
Mike,
I recently bought a new tractor and requested all the impliments be quick hitch compatible. I went one step further and also ordered a top n tilt kit to go along with the quick hitch. This is an ideal setup for a box blade. You may want to do a video on a top n tilt, I know not all people even know what it is. I have learned a lot from your channel, keep up the good work.
Robert Lee
I'll look into it.
Finally....an accurate review of quick hitches! Way to go Tractor Mike!
Great channel, Mike. Here's my 2 cents on the Quick Hitch, fwiw. If you like it, buy it.
The Quick Hitch sort of depends on a stationary top link connection to easily hook onto, like a blade, plow or rake. This works fine for mules without telescoping links, or for swapping implements with that rigid top link connection. Also, if the tool uses a PTO, you still have to get off the seat to hook up the PTO shaft.
I haven't figured out how to easily use a QH with an implement that has a loose top link connection like a tiller or a mower. How does that loose top pin stay in the hook? My mower has a U-shaped top link connection that pivots, allowing this connection to move forwards and backwards, allowing the implement to pivot on the bottom pins, and floats over the contour of the ground.
You probably understand this 'rigid vs floating' concept, but for the rookies, I'll try to explain the way an old pro taught me.
To imagine your machine moving forward across your land, sketch a rough side view showing the tractor with the front and rear tires. Draw a flat line between the bottoms of the tires and extend it out towards the rear. Now sketch a blade hanging off the back. Place a ruler on that line and tilt it up and down, pivoting it at the rear tire contact point - simulating the tractor approaching a rise or a drop-off. With a rigid top link connection, if the front tires drop down into a ditch, the blade will raise up away from the ground. If you raise the front tires to go forward up that rise, the blade must drop down and will dig into the soil. This is why brush hogs usually require a tail wheel and a flail has a roller to prevent scalping. This is where the floating top link connection comes in. With a movable top connection, the implement will pivot on the bottom pins and the rear of the implement will float up and down on the ground.
It took me a while to understand this 'rigid vs floating' concept. I learned this well the first time I tried to grade a path with a rear blade. Now I know why real road graders have the blade - between - the wheels, not hung off the back.
I know, I know, way too much information ;^) Anyway, keep these great videos coming.
Thank you! Very helpful information for a new tractor owner.
Great video Mike! I just increased my top hook length , solved about 80% of my problems.
Sure is a back saver as I get older! Well worth a little re-engineering and welding. Keep up the good work! Thanks for taking the time making the videos!
Replace the bolts holding the top hook with pins, then, if you have a non-quick hitch compatible implement, remove the pins holding the hook, invert the hook and slide it down over the top pin on your implement... replace the pins holding the hook... it’s no longer a “quick hitch” but it’s easier than modifying your implement and the rock rake will no longer have that acute angle from the adapter.
One more thing to think about is if you trailer your tractor from job to job. I have a John Deere 4520 with a Bush Hog 286 rotary mower deck on the back. I trailer it on a 14,000 GVWR Bri-Mar equipment trailer with a 20' flat deck. When I put the tractor on, I back onto the trailer. I do that because of not only the weight distribution, but in order to load it on the trailer, I have to curl the bucket all the way down so the ramps can come up to the travel position, and the tail wheel over hangs the front to the point it just barely misses the jack. If I had a quick hitch that extra couple of inches of length wouldn't work. It's easy to say get a longer trailer if you have the money, But a 20' trailer is about as long as you're likely to find in stock. At least in an equipment trailer configuration. I usually mow about 45 fields so The tractor spends quite a bit of time on the trailer and as much as I'd like to have one, a quick hitch would be a problem for me.
Thank's Mike for the informative video. I was considering a quick hitch but after viewing your post, opted against it. Although majority of my implements are "Land Pride" ergo similar 3-point attachment design, it seemed to me that cons outweighed pros for my potential use. I find the most painful part of implement installation is the PTO shaft and spline, better put, the on and off of "grease" dedicated gloves 😃 and the Quick Hitch does not address that problem 😉
So thank you for saving me money!
I bought a quick hitch and returned it the same day. I had all the same problems you did Mike, plus I'm Cat 2 and have a few Cat 1 implements still around. I always felt the quick hitch was a hairy homeowner device and after owning one for a day it proved my theory. Glad some people like them though. Good video!
NothnRunsLikeADeere : Funny, because I did the exact same thing as you did! Bought a Harbor Freight Category 1 quick hitch. Got it home and installed it, hoping for the best, but had a gut feeling it wasn't gonna be so great after all.
Went to use it on multiple different pieces of Category 1 and Cat 2 equipment that I own. It only worked on very few of the Cat 1 implements, and obviously, none of the Cat 2 implements. I was so disappointed & irritated that it didn't work on 2/3rds of my attachments, that I returned it the same day.
3-point quick hitches are a great concept, in theory. They will be adequate if you are always hooking to the same implements that it does happen to coincide with. Then, they are okay. Otherwise, they ain't worth a shit.
That's what we get for being lazy. 3-point quick hitches are just a waste of time and money in the vast majority of situations.
That hokey Pat's quick hitch is pretty much crap too. You have to have a longer top (center) link to work with them, AND the lower draft arms are a pain to keep in the right place while trying to attact an implement, due to side-sway.
Unless you have rigid-style (very uncommon) adjustable anti-sway links on the tractor's 3-point lower draft/lift arms, where you can "lock-out" the draft arms ability to side sway prior to attaching to an implement, you'll dislike them.
mike, I just watched this video and I can't believe you of all people have this Quick Hitch set up this way. Now I know you're absolutely right about some things not fitting the bottom of the QH. I have a single bottom plow that is way too narrow but hey, I use it once maybe twice a year and my post hole auger of coarse won't fit. But that's talking about the bottom. Mike, my rake is QH ready so no worries but, my brush cutter is not. My brush cutter has a brace just like the one you depicted on your rake but seriously Mike, you? You disappoint me. Why would anyone purchase an "adaptor" when all I do for QH reality is adjust the top hook! It's so crazy simple! Leave out the stupid bolts that everyone puts on the top hook and use hitch pins....... There's a lot of people reading this right now saying "duh", that is a no brainer. I only (in most cases) use one hitch pin so when I back up to an implement I swing my hook up out of the way, hook to the tool with the bottom of the QH locking it in place then lower it and remove the hitch pin set the hook in place under the hook bolt, adjust it to the best hole and replace the hitch pin.
Another peeve is that people showing these QH's always unlock them before hooking up. Why???? A QH is designed to hook up to an attachment while in the locked position. It pushes the locking mechanism in allowing the pins to enter but they can't pop back out like they can when unlocked.
Has about another video Mike on the QH? This time make it a reality common sense video and show how to use one in the real world for those who don't know. And I know, I know, I'll get flack about safety or something but come on, I've been using my QH every since they came out I through those two bolts out the first day and I've been using the adjustable hitch pin every since without a single fail.
I do love your videos, and if I didn't give you a hard time who would? Lol
Your friend and subscriber from Lithia, FL.
-Russ
Great video! I also use Pat's Quick Hitch. Best purchase I ever made. The second best purchase was an extra long top link. The quick hitch extends the lower arms by a couple inches. My standard top link became too short. With the extra long link, it works fantastic. Keep up the great videos!
Seems strange, I never had top-link problem when using a quick hitch.
Great video!!!! All my implements work with my quick hitch!!!! Most new implements meet the manufacturing spec. for the class of hitch. Mixing old and new implements is where you have problems. I get every one I have modified for my quick hitch. I connect in seconds every implement I have. My post hole digger is the only problem I have!!! I have to remove the quick hitch to install the post hole digger, Luckily I only dig post holes a couple of times a year. Again thanks for the great straight forward honest video!!!!
Mike, I bought a small tractor which has a backhoe for small needs around the farm. When I take the backhoe off and put on the 3 point, With the backhoe frame in place, the 3 point arms hit the frame and will not allow lifting implements. Some of the implements for my larger tractor would work, but I cannot get the width due to the backhoe frame.....this appears that it might be the solution albeit work will probably have to be done to modify the fit. ...thanks for the video.
I have a hydraulic Top link and a quick hitch. Every implement I have works except my seed spreader. The top hook is lower than the top link part of the seeder. I’m going to make an adapter for it only and I won’t have any more issues.
As someone who is disabled the quick hitch and top link are a life saver. I only have to get on my tractor once and I can do all the cutting, disking and smoothing I need. Though they aren’t for everyone it works well in my favor
I just added a SpeeCo e-hitch to my John Deere 1025R (no bushings required for Cat 1). For 15 years prior I used a Ford 640 and not a quick hitch. Took 20 minutes sometimes and a lot of pounding and nautical language to change implements.. Sooooo much easier (once you have it adjusted) to swap implements with the e-hitch. Now it takes 2 minutes. I have the Bolt On Hooks quick pins instead of bolts for the top hook as one 20 years old carry-all I use requires me to move the top hook. An extra two minutes.
On my quick hitch you don’t have to manually disengage and engage the latch handles to attach an implement. The latches, at least on mine, are spring loaded, and automatically latch the lower implement mounts into the bracket.
GREAT INFO. MIKE, BEEN ALL THROUGH WHAT YOU TALKED ABOUT AND MUCH MORE, VERY GOOD TRUE INFO. THANKS JOE
It looks like a Harbor Freight "Q"uick "H"itch -on mine top hook made wrong. Take off hook and weld nuts to tractor side edge of hook (J
I bought the Pat's quick hitch and so far, love it. The only issue I've found is I need a longer top link.
Really not much longer is needed but just a few inches.
I can't wait to hook up my brush hog, just waiting for my new grass to grow.
I love your videos, I recently went from a 51 Ferguson to a 2017 3901 Kubota and, the differences are amazing.
Add one advantage to a quick hitch: My bush hog on a smaller tractor without live power requires an overrun clutch. If I had a quick hitch I could hook up my finish mower without taking off the overrun clutch and without cutting the PTO shaft on the finish mower, which it just about 1/2" too long to clip on the tractor with the overrun clutch installed.
I bought a cheap, black quick hitch from the Freight near the Harbor if you catch my drift :) I ended up returning it because of the negatives you mentioned here. It only fit one of my implements which kind-of defeated the purpose. I didn't want to either modify all of my stuff or sell it and buy QH compatible stuff so I just took the thing back.
I did, however, find a quick hitch that worked with any implement. It's call the Pat's Quick Hitch. They sell it at Northern Tool, or you can order online. Tractor Supply sells a knock-off version but it's not nearly as good and not worth the tiny discount.
The way it works is, it's a separate, individual quick hitch for each lower arm. You use the same top link you use currently.
The lower arms are the hard part anyway to get lined up, the top link is usually no problem. So, you back up to your implement until the pins hit both sides, then lift up until they lock into place, then you get off the tractor and hook up the top link. This works with a post hole digger also since you just connect the top just like you do without the quick hitch.
It's width adjustable also. They sell a bar that connects the 2 sides to stabilize it (keep the width stationary) . If your tractor has the telescoping link arms like mine, you don't need the stabilizer bar. One more advantage to the cheap quick hitch is you buy either a category 1 or category 2 version. The cat1 links are actually 7/8", not larger, requiring you to get those adapters for all of your implements, of have it rattle around. All of my stuff is cat1 so I don't need to buy the cat2 version. For the ends of the pins (on the implements) they give you some bent washers that prevent the hitch sides from sliding off the end. They're pretty basic and I just made some more following their pattern.
thanks for the do's and don'ts of the quick attach.
I have a 60" rotary mower and a 60" finish mower and a carry all I use and with this hitch changes are a breeze. Before I got it I sometimes could spend an hour frigging to get the brush cutter on, Uneven ground, heavy attachment and tight space between the tractor and attachment made for some frustrating times. Now I switch between with out any thought, I just curse the PTO sometimes. I bought a new B2601 Kubota and the attachments are quick hitch compatible
Nice video, Mike. I think I have the. Same quick hitch. It is a BIG time saver. I was not aware of the fitting that go in the link arm pins. Those should take most of the shake and wobble out. Keep up the great work!
Hey Tractor Mike, I own a New Holland TC40 and a New Holland 4.75. I've had a lot of experience with different brands of quick hitches and if there is one thing I've learned it's the fact that there is nothing universal about a universal quick hitch. Every brand is made slightly different and unfortunately they do not all work as advertised. The one brand that has worked best out of all of them is SpeeCo. They work with every implement that is quick hitch compatible unlike several of the other brands. I now only buy implements that are quick hitch compatible because I'm tired of kicking and cussing all the 3 point implements that are not! Keep up the good work on all the videos you post!
Sincerely,
Glenn Sanders
Republic MO
Thanks Glenn, we used to live in Republic. First house was out west of P Highway.
I got a quick hitch that is ultra adaptable and never fails, it’s name is Tim.
Mike, another safety note...When going to a quick hitch, be sure to inspect the drive shaft of your pto driven implements...Be sure that you have 4"to 6" overlap of the drive shaft...ends...
Take the bolts out of your top hook and replace with hitch pins. It may add thirty seconds to connect your implements but big deal. I also adapted my quick hitch with a 2” receiver for my winch and a skidder face for my firewood production
I have a JD quick hitch on my JD 2032r. I use it to hook/unhook my JD MX5. I was looking at a Land Pride FDR 1660 finish mower, but if you use it with a quich hitch, you can't float the front end. Which pretty much negates the use of a finish mower.
Gotta watch quick hitches too if you keep them on while towing a draw bar implement like a batwing rotary cutter, the bottom corners of the quick hitch can hit the PTO shaft in turns and off camber situations. For us the quick hitch is a HUGE time saver since our hay mower uses the lower 3pt arms to be drawn so hooking up and dropping the mower and switch to the hay rake is a huge time saver
The quick hitch moves the implement to the rear by several inches. With implements using a PTO shaft make sure there is enough shaft overlap with it in the rear position. Bad things can happen if not!
I have a kubota/land pride quick hitch and mostly land pride implements...I bought a land pride tiller and the Land Pride website said QH compatible, but after buying it, I read the owners manual and it says you can't use the QH if you run the tiller offset
There is another type of quick hitch that I feel is a lot more versatile. Not sure if I should mention the name. It is separate hooks that go on the lower arms only. Then you connect the top link as normal. With those lower link hooks and a hydraulic top link, I can change implements without getting off the tractor, just reach behind the seat to connect the top link. I change out a lot working at the hunting camp. Best thing I ever did to my tractor!
I described the Pat's hitch in my comment also. I use it. I think it's the best option.
I'll have to get one of those to evaluate. Maybe you have the best tool. Stay tuned...
Don't get the Tractor Supply version.
What is the name and where did you get it? Thanks
All your PTO's cut to fit are now 4 inches short. You'll need to also get a push pin 6 spline female to 6 spline male or 21 spline depending on your tractor that extends the PTO 4 inches.
I normally wouldn't recommend harbor freight.. But in my comparison... harbor freight's quick hitch appears to be the exact same as everyone else's quick hitch (likely the same China origin). w 20% coupon.. got mine for $79... very heavy and well built for HF item.... But again... visual inspection puts it as being the same as this Amazon hitch as well as the northern tool version and others. Happy w it. Thx for the overview regardless.
I know this is an old video, but you are using the top hook adapter wrongly. The harbor freight book shows you how to use it. Also tractor supply sells an attachment link to use on the top hook if it isn't compatible
Very informative. Thanks for the info. on specific cat 1 27" width. That helps a lot. Looking at putting one on a Farmall Cub to use small cat 1 implements with a 26 1/4" pin spacing.
The plusses outweigh the negatives if you have attachments to change. It is definitely worth modifying attachments to work with it. If you have a category 1 small tractor and all your attachments will be for that tractor you can get a quick hitch made for category 1 attachments and not have to purchase adaptors for the attachments, that is what I did. After having a quick hitch making all the changes in attachments so easy it is only a matter of a couple of minutes to change any of them. Maybe add a minute or two at the most for attachments with PTO shafts. On the other hand if someone has category 1 and category 2 tractors and would share implements one would need to use adaptors for one or the other. I did modify a wood chipper that was not quick hitch to work and it was not all that difficult just moving a bolt hole and using a couple of spacer adaptors to get the size right for the top attachment. Quick hitch is the only way to go if you want to put easy in changing attachments. If they are too hard to change it's easy to just say it's not worth all the work to put it on for a little job so you don't do it.
Well first of all I have a quick hitch on a kubota b 2320 for about 3 years now. That top link adaptor dosent go on that top link hook like you had it. you remove that hood and put that adaptor in place of that hook.
Mike, I just put on a quick hitch for my Massey 2706. All my attachments are Woods, so i keep it uniform. I am having a hard time finding a 3 point spreader that is quick hitch compatible. Can you do a video on this? It seems to be a hot topic in my area. The only one I found is the countyline which is Tractor Supply’s model. Thanks
They are currently unavailable at the Amazon link provided, but you can find the same one at Harbor Freight.
@ 4;15, use a shorter toplink, that will help level the implement.
Great video Mike. I have a quick hitch and a lot of different size and shaped attachments. I use the universal top link on all of my equipment. If I am correct the owners manual calls to remove the hook from the quick hitch when using the universal top link. This allowed everything to hang correctly from the hitch not the way it was on the rake you connected on your tractor. I do have to get off the tractor each and every time.
PS. I love all you videos. Thanks for your hard work.
I've a Areins GT20 could YOU PLEASE tell Me about using the 3 point hitch? what do you call that turn buckle at the top?
it has a mower deck and a front PTO.... thanx!
If one has 4 welders like I do, fabricating proper adapters to make fit is not a difficult thing. But as you pointed out, if one is not a welder/fabricator, life can get difficult.
Well done Mike!
mike... no mention of how the quick hitch can change the needed length of your pto...? I bought a pto extender for mine. I think it was about 4".
Isn't that what an overrun clutch is for?? : )
Wow, what a informative video. Thank you Tractor Mike! You earned a like from me.
Thanks Doug!
I bought a quick hitch Cat 2 once and ASSumed that since the different category pins were standardized that the widths were too. WROOOONG!!! About half my implements fit and the other half didn't . For me the problem came into play with implements that have a clevis style hookup for the lower control arms. Different manufacturers make their implements with different widths between mounting spots and also different clearances within the clevis hookup. The real pisser was that several were off by just half an inch.
The quick hitch I bought was over 100 lbs and I didn't feel like trying to manhandle that thing every time I needed to take it off or reinstall it for different equipment so I sold it without ever using it. I could have probably cut it down and rewelded it but it just didn't seem worth the trouble.
I want to thank you for that that helps me out with a lot of problems
Three point hookups are a pain, with or without a quick hitch. That said, if you take the time to mate your attachments to your quick hitch, it is better [imo]. Now as far as the PTO.....
The hitch on Amazon looks exactly like the QH from Harbor Freight, I mean exactly. The pic is the exact same (including welding imperfections and all). That said, I wonder if this is coming from the same manufacturer in China. If so, buy it from HF for $99.99 and find one of their 20% off coupons vs $169.73 on Amazon...
Yup!
@@Kntryhart I GOT MY CAT 2 FROM NORTHERN TOOL ON SALE $126.00 ABOUT 5 YEARS AGO. THAT WAS SHIPED TO NEAREST STORE SO I HAVE TO ADD GAS MONEY.
I ordered the quick hitch for more ford 2000 but I can't figure out where to hook my stabilizer bars?
Jeff, I think you'll have to scrap the factory pins and get some longer ones and put the stabilizers around them. They won't go inside where the lower links go will they? I hadn't thought about that but I can see it being a problem on that style of stabilizers.
Tractor Mike - No sir, they will not fit in there with the lift arms, but the longer pins is a great idea.
Thank you sir
Would a Quick Hitch attachment work on an old Allis-Chalmers WD that has a snap coupler setup instead of using a 3 pt. hitch conversion kit?
That's a question I don't know the answer to but I really don't think so. I think the Allis would have to be converted to three point before the quick hitch would work. Maybe one of the channel viewers will know for sure. I'd be shocked if there was any way to make either system work with a snap coupler.
I just bought a iMatch hitch (pricey eh?) No matter how I've tried, I cannot hook the hitch up to a King Kutter landscape rake. I think your advice of buying implements from the same vendor would eliminate a lot of frustration. However, I already have many third party implements. I wish I had seen your video to understand some of third party implements are not going to work without major changes to either the implement or the hitch.
3:25 Could you turn the pins inward on the implement to get under the 27 inch limit?
It will almost certainly be too narrow if you try that.
Can the quick hatch help with a tiller
Very informative video Mike, thanks! I often wonder though about extra stress on the tractor's 3-points mounts from the implement being extended reward. Don't know if that's an issue or not.
It would add to the stress but most three points are built for it. I've only seen a three point break one time in my life and it was on our farm and we had to put it in a pretty severe bind to snap it off. Local welding guru fixed it and it never gave us any more problems. Normally they can take about all the stress you can put on them.
My quick hitches work with all my equipment except my box blade, and one plow. I have to use the adapter to hook them up, but I don't use the plow, or the box blade that much.
Good information!
Thanks for this.
My quick hitch top hook will not stay engaged with my Landpride Brushhog. Any suggestions?
Ive also noticed that the quick hitch changes the effective total height that you can lift your implements. Mike, where did you get those quick hitch lower arm bushings ? I need a bunch of them.
Best thing is to order them off Amazon. I have what's called an "Influencer Site" that has stuff I use and recommend, they're down at the bottom if you click on this link: www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1QDZ7XPK57E49/ref=cm_wl_huc_view.
thanks mike
Bevis Butthead. You might want to price Tractor supply. That is where I bought mine, but you stated you needed a bunch so you can probably save some money buying online through harbor freight.
Thanks for posting & stay safe.
4:08 adapter is mounted wrong. It should be hooked through the same hole as the 3 point top link on the tractor side. Still a very helpful video
On your blade that doesn't fit, it looks like it might just barely if you move the lock washer to the other side of the frame, under the nut.. ( little hard to tell from the video )
Idk if anyone mentioned this but I feel like the adapter is supposed to be hooked to the pin thru the quick hitch not on the hook
Looks like these would only be safe for balanced applications. if this works on hay spike I am in those are a pain to hook up
He made “three points” about a
“three point” hitch. 😂 That’s funny right there, I don’t care who ya are!
John Deere is the only company that makes ASAE Certified catagory 1, 2 & 3 quick hitches. Most King Kutter implement work with the John Deere quick It is John Deere who invented the 3pt quick couplers back in the 60s
Great video, Mike. I have a 70 hp tractor with both cat I and cat II holes on the arms. Could I still use the cat I quick hitch or will the tractor hp be too much for it? The implements I have now (box blade and rotary cutter) are cat I. Thanks
Larry, I really don't know. A lot depends on how hard you work the implements. I could probably tell you when I've had it a few years but right now I just can't predict.
Larry Braley Not using quick hitch but the tractor can't be too powerful. The driver might not limit himself on how much he tries to pull etc. but that is driver error. If the implement is cat 1 it was probably not (unless both 1&2) made for a too big tractor using all its power on it. So it might fail instead of the quick hitch.
Larry Braley : Yes, you can use it just fine. Personally, I have no use for quick hitches. Except for in a few situations, there's really nothing "quick" about them, far as I'm concerned.
Can you still tilt a box grader with the quick hitch attached?
yes did it today
Two questions for you sir. Does lengthening the distance between the Tractor and lift arms (~ 4”) affect lifting capacity of the hitch, and how much overlap is correct, or not enough, for the drive shaft?
Thanks, Steve
A few years late, but lengthening the distance between the lift arms and tractor will slightly reduce your lift capacity of course, plus the weight of the quick hitch, but pretty negligible.
For the drive shaft of a PTO implement after adding a quick hitch you'll have to make sure you still have about 2" of shaft overlap to be safe. The PTO shaft for my roto-tiller was too short after adding my quick hitch, I bought a PTO shaft extension that goes on the end of the PTO shaft of the tractor which worked...except in my case I installed that adapter on the tiller because its my only PTO implement and if I get other implements in the future that use the PTO I'll simply cut the shaft to the right length to accommodate the quick hitch.
If I recall most times your PTO implement's manual will say a minimum of 2 inches of overlap on the 2 PTO shaft halves to be safe for operation...but double check the manual for your particular application to be sure.
thats where Im at, all my equipt is old and the only thing that works on them is pat,s quick links
I have pats quick hitch love them, got them at agri supply, cost a little more
True that if you frequently use a post hole digger, you have to remove your top link. I just remove the last attachment used and leave the QH on it. But in your second point, you're showing the toplink adapter installed incorrectly. You attach the adapter to where your top link pins to the quick hitch - several inches toward the tractor. When not using the adapter, it swings out of the way. No wonder your rake droops down so far! Too bad folks see this and get steered away from the incorrect demo. Yes it does take some time to set up initially for each implement, but for those of us with limited physical lifting capability, it is a real saver.
Hi Mike - were you using Tractor Supply / County Line cat 1 top link there?
I think that's what it is...the factory top link got bent up somehow and I was too cheap to buy the replacement.
Awesome video! Some of these points never occurred to me. I'm thinking that one of these won't work with some of the implements at work :(
Largest issue I've had with my quick hitch is the fact it seems to make my PTO shaft just a bit too short to use for my rotary cutter . Which of course is the main reason I bought the quick hitch .
Ugh!
Great video!
Great informative video as always. Thank you.
Mike what do you think about Pat's quick hitch?
I'm getting a lot of feedback on them so I'll have to order a set and evaluate. Stay tuned!
Tractor Mike bought Pats, good price at Agri Supply, because of the issues you mention. I'm not trying to hook up without getting out of the seat, but want to retire the mattock/pick I use to maneuver implements to the pins😡
I have Pat's hooks and don't like them. Took them off, got a harbor Freight quick hitch. Had to do some tweaking to it , but like it a lot better!
would you sell them
great info thanks
Good info.