Great video. I love my Z6 III. I was taking photos of my little niece running around in a park sprinkler, and the camera locked onto her eye, even when she was behind the sprinkler spray. My Z6 II probably would have switched focus to the water spray.
Stellar review and thank you Jeremy. I'd like to ask a favour. I think your AF test showing the Z6III's focus acquisition in low light is fantastic, and you're one of the few that's actually tested this properly. Would you be able to take shots too and see the hit rate? I'm asking because I've heard that sometimes cameras may lock on focus in low light, but then you take the picture and the focus is slightly off. The Z6 III looks confident, so I think the hit rate will still be good in low light, but I'd be interested in this comparison with the A1/A9III if time permits it for you. Thanks again for this video.
The Z6 is quite a step down compared to the Sony A1/A9III benchmarks I used in this test and the Z6III is better still. Long story short you will see a HUGE difference!
Good and interesting test, thank you! I just tried this 1/60, f/8, ISO64000 with my years old Canon R6 and it tracks the face effortlessly too. The unsuccess of the Sony is somehow logical - it focuses down to -4EV only. Canon R6 to -6.5, Nikon Z6III to -10EV. On the other hand, shooting at that extremely high ISOs while having stopped down to a very dim f/8 makes zero sense. If you want to show the environment, use wider FL for deeper DoF at wide apertures. I always combine UWA f/2.8 zoom with sub f/1.8 primes in the standard to short telephoto range.
Canon's Dual Pixel CMOS AF tech is interesting and works differently than every other manufacturer. While Canon hasn't been too keen on elaborating on many details one thing I know is that Canon's don't exhibit the same aperture change before capture discussed here. One thing is obvious; all the camera manufacturers are working to improve this aspect of mirrorless cameras. I totally agree, the settings used here are are for demonstration purposes a "torture test" of sorts. In real-world shooting I too try to shoot at wider focal lengths to help maximize DOF without having to stop down as far. Notice my settings on the real-world photo at 1:23... 1/80th at F/5.6, ISO 4000, and 21mm. 😃
With a DSLR you can use your flash - even with firing disabled - AF asist light to nail focus in pitch black light conditions. And unlike walking around with a huge LED light to light everything up, it remains unnoticable for the people you're trying to capture - on a wedding dance floor for example. Resulting in great candid photos. Therefore, DSLR lowlight (with flash AF light) will always be even more reliable than mirrorless. I miss that feature on my Z6III. I don't understand nobody is selling a flash with the same capability, but adapted to mirrorless. Even a laser grid or beam of green light might help. The Z6III is obviously better than my Z6II. But it's not as good than my old D750 & SB-910 combo with AF assist light. The resuslt is, more overshooting to compensate. So more photos to dig through later.
This is going to be a game changer for events with flash on low light. Can you replicate these tests with a flash? Would it make any difference from what you showed here? This is awesome finding so far and for my work it will be an awesome advantage
Neil van Niekerk whose image I showed in the video made a blog post that outlines everything you need. 😃 neilvn.com/tangents/finding-a-solution-for-poor-low-light-auto-focus-with-mirrorless-cameras/
I don't think the Z cameras actually stop down past 5.6 until the shutter is depressed and the photo is taken. I believe this is a parameter of the Z cameras for just this reason. -PD
Interesting, I will test more. 😃 In my testing other Z cameras struggle just as much or more than the Sony's I compared to in this test (including the Z8 and Z9).
@@JeremySmithPhotography Yeah that is interesting - Nikon may have added additional tech in addition to the 5.6 stop down maximum for this camera - either way Nikon is killing it!
I plan on selling my z6 II next year and buying this camera. I may have another wedding to pay for next year so it depends on a lot of different things. I have the z8 so it's not like I really have to have the z6 III. I just want it. From my understanding, it has a dual gain ISO. From 100 to 800 it prioritizes for dynamic range because the noise isn't really that bad. Nothing that software can't clear up easily. From 800 on up it prioritizes the noise to keep it lower. I think that's because it's not a bsi sensor. Sometimes I shoot milky way photos at ISO 6400 so I do want to see some tests at that range. I'll be watching for some of the UA-camrs to put out videos testing it out at night. I do like the flip out screen. I have one on my Canon T6s. It comes in handy when you are in a place where you can't stand behind the camera. I've set up right beside a creek where there was a steep drop off of at least 5 feet. There was no place to stand. I just flipped the screen out so I could see it. It works great for when you have to set the camera down low or in the corner of a room. I wish it had a screen like Sony has that works both ways. Combine the one from the z8 with the one on the z6 III. Best of both. But they're trying to keep the price down.
@@JeremySmithPhotography I take it that if the Sony a1 & a9III don't autofocus in low light as good as the Z6III, my guess is that the Sony a7IV won't autofocus that well in low light either?
NO Mirrorless camera does that if you know what you’re doing. If you can’t see your exposure is probably off and you can prove this by turning off the view that applies the settings to the viewfinder. As for DSLRs, if you try that with many DSLR lenses with an Aperture greater than F/5.6 it will do the same thing. The Z6 III just has a setting that turns that off if you’re using flash.
This video isn’t about being able to see an accurate representation of the exposure (exposure simulation). It’s about how the camera does focus tracking at small apertures in low light. If you turn off exposure simulation on a Nikon, Sony, or Fuji mirrorless camera the aperture will remain wide open like on a DSLR… but ONLY if you are using AF-S (SINGLE SERVO) focus. That’s not what this video is about… here we are specifically speaking about how the Z6III is able to do focus TRACKING in low light at small apertures. Focus tracking means we aren’t using AF-S, we are using AF-C (CONTINUOUS) focus. When using AF-C with exposure simulation turned off Nikon, Sony, and Fuji mirrorless cameras DO NOT remain at a wide aperture like a DSLR, they stop down just as shown here. This is why those of us who are experienced know this issue very well and understand just how big a leap forward the Z6III is in this area. 😉
Nikon does it by not stopping the lens down until you take the photo. I'll need to take a look at my Z6III but on my recently sold Z6 it would close the aperture down to about f/5.6 then the blades would not move anymore as you stop down. When you take the photo the aperture would stop down to take the photo.
@@livejames9374 The biggest difference is that despite maintaining f/5.6 an older camera like the Z6II will struggle under these conditions... interestingly enough so does the Z8 and Z9. I feel a follow-up video coming. 😃
That was my first thought too, to my surprise it isn't simulating! Note my title at 2:39; I will continue to investigate... I want to know how Nikon did it. I am impressed! 😃
The key here is to pay close attention to the exposure settings used, keep in mind what you are seeing during the test is a screen recording from the camera. At 5:04 I show what kind of exposure you would get under "more favorable" (brighter) lighting conditions. At 5:36 that darker result is not because of an exposure change. Notice that I did not change camera settings; we stay at ISO 800, F/4, 1/60th. When I say "first of all lets make it properly dark in here" I turn off the main light to simulate extreme low-light conditions. This is to illustrate just how dark the subject became relative to where we started. Again; we are still at the same settings and we are 3+ stops underexposed. While things are still 3+ stops underexposed I make things even worse by stopping down to F/8 (since how the camera focuses when stopped down is the topic of this video). To compensate for the change in aperture AND the ambient light being reduced the ISO is raised to 64,000. Under the test conditions 1/60th and F/8 at ISO 64,000 ISO would be the same exposure as 1/60th and F/2.8 at ISO 8,000, or 1/60th and F/2 at ISO 4,000. If translated to settings I would actually use during an event we arrive at 1/250th and F/1.4 at ISO 8,000. Put simply, despite the scene appearing bright for the sake of this video presentation it was properly dark. 😃
@@JeremySmithPhotography Thank you. I am a beginner enthusiast photographer and just learning. I appreciate your time to educate me. I have a Z6ii and still learning how to use it. Do you think I should upgrade to Z6iii if money is not an issue, or something else?
Good stuff Jeremy!
Thank you sir 😃
Great video. I love my Z6 III. I was taking photos of my little niece running around in a park sprinkler, and the camera locked onto her eye, even when she was behind the sprinkler spray. My Z6 II probably would have switched focus to the water spray.
I just came from your friend Beyond Xen. We all love you Jeremy haha
Thanks for the love! Maybe it’s time for some co-ops 😃
@@JeremySmithPhotography yeahh, it would be amazing
Thanks for this comparison! I'm sold on this even more and will probably buy 2 when I'm able to
Insightful & fair presentation! Thanks man!!
Stellar review and thank you Jeremy. I'd like to ask a favour. I think your AF test showing the Z6III's focus acquisition in low light is fantastic, and you're one of the few that's actually tested this properly. Would you be able to take shots too and see the hit rate? I'm asking because I've heard that sometimes cameras may lock on focus in low light, but then you take the picture and the focus is slightly off. The Z6 III looks confident, so I think the hit rate will still be good in low light, but I'd be interested in this comparison with the A1/A9III if time permits it for you. Thanks again for this video.
That is very important for me cause Im shooting primarily events in low light. My Z6 struggles a lot in that area. Thanks
The Z6 is quite a step down compared to the Sony A1/A9III benchmarks I used in this test and the Z6III is better still. Long story short you will see a HUGE difference!
How did Nikon do it?...The dark side of the Force is a pathway to many abilities some consider to be unnatural...
Good and interesting test, thank you!
I just tried this 1/60, f/8, ISO64000 with my years old Canon R6 and it tracks the face effortlessly too.
The unsuccess of the Sony is somehow logical - it focuses down to -4EV only. Canon R6 to -6.5, Nikon Z6III to -10EV.
On the other hand, shooting at that extremely high ISOs while having stopped down to a very dim f/8 makes zero sense. If you want to show the environment, use wider FL for deeper DoF at wide apertures. I always combine UWA f/2.8 zoom with sub f/1.8 primes in the standard to short telephoto range.
Canon's Dual Pixel CMOS AF tech is interesting and works differently than every other manufacturer. While Canon hasn't been too keen on elaborating on many details one thing I know is that Canon's don't exhibit the same aperture change before capture discussed here. One thing is obvious; all the camera manufacturers are working to improve this aspect of mirrorless cameras.
I totally agree, the settings used here are are for demonstration purposes a "torture test" of sorts. In real-world shooting I too try to shoot at wider focal lengths to help maximize DOF without having to stop down as far. Notice my settings on the real-world photo at 1:23... 1/80th at F/5.6, ISO 4000, and 21mm. 😃
With a DSLR you can use your flash - even with firing disabled - AF asist light to nail focus in pitch black light conditions. And unlike walking around with a huge LED light to light everything up, it remains unnoticable for the people you're trying to capture - on a wedding dance floor for example. Resulting in great candid photos. Therefore, DSLR lowlight (with flash AF light) will always be even more reliable than mirrorless. I miss that feature on my Z6III. I don't understand nobody is selling a flash with the same capability, but adapted to mirrorless. Even a laser grid or beam of green light might help. The Z6III is obviously better than my Z6II. But it's not as good than my old D750 & SB-910 combo with AF assist light. The resuslt is, more overshooting to compensate. So more photos to dig through later.
Z cameras can't see red when autofocusing. So red is dead. There are some third party flashes which can turn on their white video LEDs instead.
This is going to be a game changer for events with flash on low light. Can you replicate these tests with a flash? Would it make any difference from what you showed here? This is awesome finding so far and for my work it will be an awesome advantage
I haven't tested with flash much but from my initial tests the camera still did just as well with flash as it did in this test. 😃
Great content brother
Thank you!
Hi Jeremy, Can you please provide the info for the bracket that is holding the small LED light? Thank you.
Neil van Niekerk whose image I showed in the video made a blog post that outlines everything you need. 😃
neilvn.com/tangents/finding-a-solution-for-poor-low-light-auto-focus-with-mirrorless-cameras/
Ja Morant is a photographer too??
*Goggle searches*, *squints eyes*, *asks mom*... I think it's just the mustache and eyebrows lol.
I don't think the Z cameras actually stop down past 5.6 until the shutter is depressed and the photo is taken. I believe this is a parameter of the Z cameras for just this reason.
-PD
Interesting, I will test more. 😃 In my testing other Z cameras struggle just as much or more than the Sony's I compared to in this test (including the Z8 and Z9).
@@JeremySmithPhotography Yeah that is interesting - Nikon may have added additional tech in addition to the 5.6 stop down maximum for this camera - either way Nikon is killing it!
I plan on selling my z6 II next year and buying this camera. I may have another wedding to pay for next year so it depends on a lot of different things. I have the z8 so it's not like I really have to have the z6 III. I just want it. From my understanding, it has a dual gain ISO. From 100 to 800 it prioritizes for dynamic range because the noise isn't really that bad. Nothing that software can't clear up easily. From 800 on up it prioritizes the noise to keep it lower. I think that's because it's not a bsi sensor. Sometimes I shoot milky way photos at ISO 6400 so I do want to see some tests at that range. I'll be watching for some of the UA-camrs to put out videos testing it out at night. I do like the flip out screen. I have one on my Canon T6s. It comes in handy when you are in a place where you can't stand behind the camera. I've set up right beside a creek where there was a steep drop off of at least 5 feet. There was no place to stand. I just flipped the screen out so I could see it. It works great for when you have to set the camera down low or in the corner of a room. I wish it had a screen like Sony has that works both ways. Combine the one from the z8 with the one on the z6 III. Best of both. But they're trying to keep the price down.
💯
The low light AF is quite impressive.! Thanks for pointing it out! \(^_^ )
Indeed it is! I believe this is a sign of good things to come in terms of future cameras. 😃
@@JeremySmithPhotography I take it that if the Sony a1 & a9III don't autofocus in low light as good as the Z6III, my guess is that the Sony a7IV won't autofocus that well in low light either?
Correct; do keep in mind though that the A1 and A9III also do well. It's not that they do terribly it's just that the Nikon does exceptionally well. 😃
NO Mirrorless camera does that if you know what you’re doing. If you can’t see your exposure is probably off and you can prove this by turning off the view that applies the settings to the viewfinder.
As for DSLRs, if you try that with many DSLR lenses with an Aperture greater than F/5.6 it will do the same thing.
The Z6 III just has a setting that turns that off if you’re using flash.
This video isn’t about being able to see an accurate representation of the exposure (exposure simulation). It’s about how the camera does focus tracking at small apertures in low light. If you turn off exposure simulation on a Nikon, Sony, or Fuji mirrorless camera the aperture will remain wide open like on a DSLR… but ONLY if you are using AF-S (SINGLE SERVO) focus.
That’s not what this video is about… here we are specifically speaking about how the Z6III is able to do focus TRACKING in low light at small apertures. Focus tracking means we aren’t using AF-S, we are using AF-C (CONTINUOUS) focus. When using AF-C with exposure simulation turned off Nikon, Sony, and Fuji mirrorless cameras DO NOT remain at a wide aperture like a DSLR, they stop down just as shown here. This is why those of us who are experienced know this issue very well and understand just how big a leap forward the Z6III is in this area. 😉
Nikon does it by not stopping the lens down until you take the photo. I'll need to take a look at my Z6III but on my recently sold Z6 it would close the aperture down to about f/5.6 then the blades would not move anymore as you stop down. When you take the photo the aperture would stop down to take the photo.
The Z6iii functions the same as your old camera.
@@livejames9374 The biggest difference is that despite maintaining f/5.6 an older camera like the Z6II will struggle under these conditions... interestingly enough so does the Z8 and Z9. I feel a follow-up video coming. 😃
It might simulate a small aperture will keeping it fully open untill you press the shutter?
That was my first thought too, to my surprise it isn't simulating! Note my title at 2:39; I will continue to investigate... I want to know how Nikon did it. I am impressed! 😃
That’s not how Nikon cameras work
Just found out about you from your half life playing friend
Cool! We are going to starting doing some collaborations soon 😉
@@JeremySmithPhotography cool dude
How is it dark when lights are on? You made it dark regarding exposure, not ambient light? Am I missing something here?
The key here is to pay close attention to the exposure settings used, keep in mind what you are seeing during the test is a screen recording from the camera.
At 5:04 I show what kind of exposure you would get under "more favorable" (brighter) lighting conditions. At 5:36 that darker result is not because of an exposure change. Notice that I did not change camera settings; we stay at ISO 800, F/4, 1/60th. When I say "first of all lets make it properly dark in here" I turn off the main light to simulate extreme low-light conditions. This is to illustrate just how dark the subject became relative to where we started. Again; we are still at the same settings and we are 3+ stops underexposed.
While things are still 3+ stops underexposed I make things even worse by stopping down to F/8 (since how the camera focuses when stopped down is the topic of this video). To compensate for the change in aperture AND the ambient light being reduced the ISO is raised to 64,000. Under the test conditions 1/60th and F/8 at ISO 64,000 ISO would be the same exposure as 1/60th and F/2.8 at ISO 8,000, or 1/60th and F/2 at ISO 4,000. If translated to settings I would actually use during an event we arrive at 1/250th and F/1.4 at ISO 8,000. Put simply, despite the scene appearing bright for the sake of this video presentation it was properly dark. 😃
@@JeremySmithPhotography Thank you. I am a beginner enthusiast photographer and just learning. I appreciate your time to educate me. I have a Z6ii and still learning how to use it. Do you think I should upgrade to Z6iii if money is not an issue, or something else?