I'm an electrician, I would not have used the old toaster wiring/cord as the plug is a 3- wire and is not being used and this would make someone think this item is grounded when it is not. You also didn't mention about attaching the correct neutral wire together (these are usually identified by a raised ridge or ridges on the outer insulation of the cord, an appliance cord may not have this identifier, so be carful) so that you don't have a reversed polarity when you plug in your cool lamp. Reverse polarity can be very dangerous. If your lamp has that condition and you plug in, the outer skin " the i.e. pipe" can be energized and present a shock hazard. Your ideas and figuring it out is/are supper cool, keep up the great work..
Thanks for the tutorial. Looks good - I have been wanting to do something like this for a while now. I also like the style lamp you chose to complete the look - that 'old fashioned' filament in a clear envelope just adds to the overall effect. Nice work! I also would not have thought of the clear coat, but see that is is a good idea to help prevent rust. I do have a couple of electrical safety suggestions. First, since you used a cord with a ground (which is actually a good idea because of the metal pipe), crimp an appropriate sized ring terminal on the ground (green, green/yellow, or bare copper) wire and make sure to capture it with one of the mounting screws to electrically connect the ground to the pipe assembly. Another safety tip - lampholders have a hot and neutral - in the US, black is hot and white is neutral. The neutral connects to the shell of the lamp (the threaded part) while the hot is the center contact. Make sure you connect the neutral on the lampholder to the neutral from your cord set. This is to minimize the chance of a shock should someone touch the outside of the lamp when it is partially screwed into the lamp holder. The switch should switch the hot wire between the cord set and the lampholder. To tell hot from neutral, look at the cordset and see if the wires are colored. If so, white is neutral and black is hot (in the US). If you have a cordset from Europe, the colors are typically brown for hot and blue for neutral. If you do not have a grounding cordset, the wire connected to the larger blade on the plug is the neutral. If your cordset is not polarized (I.E. both blades are the same width) and is not a 3 prong grounded cordset, I would get one that is grounded or polarized for the sake of safety. For a grounded cordset that does not have colored wires, if you look at the end of the cordset with the blades facing you and the ground (round) pin at the bottom, the neutral will be the blade to the right of ground. For your crimp terminals, the ones with the integrated heatshrink (like you used) are awesome. Sometimes you will see them mentioned as auto or marine use, because they seal when heated and shrunk. The terminals also are different sizes - make sure you match the wire size to the terminal size. These are generally color coded as well - what you commonly find are red, blue, and yellow. Each is suitable for a range of sizes. For most lamp wiring, the blue connectors (usually for 14 - 16 gauge wire) are the ones you want. Sometimes you might encounter 18 gauge wire, in which case red is your color (red is typically 18 - 22 gauge. Yellow is 10 - 12). Make sure the proper crimp slot on your crimper are used as well - depending on the specific tool, they may have marking for insulated and non-insulated connectors. Make sure the size and type match the slots used in your crimp tool to ensure a secure crimp.
It would be cool if the valve was actually a dimmer so if you keep rotating the light keeps becoming brighter and brighter. I think I'll try it myself.
Use the green wire (Grounding Wire) and terminate it to the pipe or somewhere internally so that the fixture is grounded. IF the hot wire was to go to the pipe and it wasn't grounded the pipe would become energized and in the right conditions touching the fixture you would get shocked. It would keep from some one getting hurt for sure and it was already available. I would also use a white wire to make sure that polarity was being maintained to the socket. Other than that, it was a nice build, I think I may make one myself. Best Regards!
WOW....I have seen several videos and the end product is ok....what you have made here is right up my alley and takes this to an artistic level that I love and is always what I am looking for. Ways I can infuse my style into a current trend. Great job...and you sneaky one you did not tell us how you made the bulbs appear to be lit from both ends....but I think I figured it out...anyway great work..more...
Just a heads up. If you use a 1/2 inch gate valve it will actually screw in to a 1 inch to 3/4 reducer hex. Use a little red lock tight and it will not come off.
Thanks for the tutorial. I like your honesty showing that mistakes happen and is ok; we just need correct them and continue until project is complete. Thanks again!
Nice Design on the Switch I like your idea better than mine, but I was using 3/4 Copper and had a lot less room to work with. I use a miniature Toggle Switch and drilled a hole in the Gate to operate the Toggle switch.
It's not just a little tricky, it's hard as hell to get the bonnet off. *giggles I guess* Wish I'd known how hard it was before purchasing the gate valve.
I wondered how I could make a water valve switch, thank you so much, you just helped me solve the problem. The first one I make will be because of you.. again thank you for the video, just awesome 👌 👏
If that long straight pipe nipple is black steel, make sure you degrease it with acetone first. They're all coated with a thin layer of oil so that they don't flash rust at the store. Definitely do not paint over an oily surface. It WILL fail. Source: I have a shop where I paint cars and motorcycles.
i know Im randomly asking but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost my password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Jamie Tristan Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Youve got a lot to learn, long journey still left but nice work btw, ive got a long journey too. Never stop learning shop skills. Cheers, also, use the mutlimeter continuity test to check your wiring works, dont need to plug anything in, or set it to resistance ohms and make sure it reads low resistance, as an open circuit or faulty connectuion has high resistance.
Thanks for the vid. But I think the 8” nipple is ¾ not 1” if I follow your build pic. You reduce to ¾ then increase back to an inch at the light fixture I believe. Your parts list says 1”x8” nipple.
Hi, I love the video. Can you please give me advice on how you separate the faucet handle from the valve? Did you use a vice clamp or plumber's wrench? I bought the gate valve you recommended and I'm starting to strip the outside and I don't want to screw it up anymore. Thank you!
@@sofiedimarco5851 Yeah, I got really lucky. I went to my local hardware store and they did it for me. Essentially, they clamped it down and then used two wrenches and some old man strength to get it unscrewed. I hope this helps you!
Watching your video with headphones is so weird. I hear the music on both sides, your speaking voice just on my left and your recorded voice online on my right side 😄
Do you think we could pack the pipe where the switch is with insulation to keep it from moving? Instead of using the welding glue? or both for extra measure.
Hey! Really nice build, i loved it! There are a few things that you could improve: - start and ending voice volume are really low and the music really high - makes it really hard to hear you. - lower the music volume overall - when you lower the camera at 2:40 you also lowered the mic and the sound of your voice was coming from above and it was also lower - when you move the camera back ~ 2:57 the volume bounces back and it creates a bad audio experience. I hope you don't mind me pointing these things out but I like the video and I would love to see your channel grow.
You’ve probably found out the answer already but if someone comes along looking for it…like I did. Take the positive wire from the light socket and attach it to one of the wires on the rotary switch. Then the positive wire from the electrical cord connects to the other wire on the switch. Then connect the negative wire from the light socket to the negative wire on the power cord.
Well what about the green ground wire? If the lamp has a ground fault that could energize the metal pipes. That could cause problems such as fire or electrocution.
Here's a great idea. When you are talking, record what you're saying and drop the music so we know whats happening. Great project if I knew what you were doing.
I admit i'm nervous to do this. Just because I doubt my design will sell. I'll go through all this trouble and money and no one will buy it. But I have some neat ideas I think. Do you sell these?
you never switch a neural (white) always hot (black). keep the white neutral on the white wire of light sockets. this will make the screw shell cold & the center contact hot. i was an elecrician for 28 years. never dawned on me to build lamps from plumbing pipe!
So take a normal charging cord and slip it up through the slot I routered into the board from the bottom. Place a bead of silicon in the hole to hold the cord in place. I didn't show this very well in the video sorry !!
Also use a thicker board then I did the end of the charging cord doesn't like to bend or put feet on it like I did .. Let me know if you need anymore help !!
Thanks for keeping in the mistakes. It's a nice reminder that I'm not the only one who makes them.
I'm an electrician, I would not have used the old toaster wiring/cord as the plug is a 3- wire and is not being used and this would make someone think this item is grounded when it is not. You also didn't mention about attaching the correct neutral wire together (these are usually identified by a raised ridge or ridges on the outer insulation of the cord, an appliance cord may not have this identifier, so be carful) so that you don't have a reversed polarity when you plug in your cool lamp. Reverse polarity can be very dangerous. If your lamp has that condition and you plug in, the outer skin " the i.e. pipe" can be energized and present a shock hazard. Your ideas and figuring it out is/are supper cool, keep up the great work..
Thanks for the tutorial. Looks good - I have been wanting to do something like this for a while now. I also like the style lamp you chose to complete the look - that 'old fashioned' filament in a clear envelope just adds to the overall effect. Nice work! I also would not have thought of the clear coat, but see that is is a good idea to help prevent rust.
I do have a couple of electrical safety suggestions. First, since you used a cord with a ground (which is actually a good idea because of the metal pipe), crimp an appropriate sized ring terminal on the ground (green, green/yellow, or bare copper) wire and make sure to capture it with one of the mounting screws to electrically connect the ground to the pipe assembly. Another safety tip - lampholders have a hot and neutral - in the US, black is hot and white is neutral. The neutral connects to the shell of the lamp (the threaded part) while the hot is the center contact. Make sure you connect the neutral on the lampholder to the neutral from your cord set. This is to minimize the chance of a shock should someone touch the outside of the lamp when it is partially screwed into the lamp holder. The switch should switch the hot wire between the cord set and the lampholder. To tell hot from neutral, look at the cordset and see if the wires are colored. If so, white is neutral and black is hot (in the US). If you have a cordset from Europe, the colors are typically brown for hot and blue for neutral. If you do not have a grounding cordset, the wire connected to the larger blade on the plug is the neutral. If your cordset is not polarized (I.E. both blades are the same width) and is not a 3 prong grounded cordset, I would get one that is grounded or polarized for the sake of safety. For a grounded cordset that does not have colored wires, if you look at the end of the cordset with the blades facing you and the ground (round) pin at the bottom, the neutral will be the blade to the right of ground. For your crimp terminals, the ones with the integrated heatshrink (like you used) are awesome. Sometimes you will see them mentioned as auto or marine use, because they seal when heated and shrunk. The terminals also are different sizes - make sure you match the wire size to the terminal size. These are generally color coded as well - what you commonly find are red, blue, and yellow. Each is suitable for a range of sizes. For most lamp wiring, the blue connectors (usually for 14 - 16 gauge wire) are the ones you want. Sometimes you might encounter 18 gauge wire, in which case red is your color (red is typically 18 - 22 gauge. Yellow is 10 - 12). Make sure the proper crimp slot on your crimper are used as well - depending on the specific tool, they may have marking for insulated and non-insulated connectors. Make sure the size and type match the slots used in your crimp tool to ensure a secure crimp.
Thanks for your additional safety tips Robert.
It would be cool if the valve was actually a dimmer so if you keep rotating the light keeps becoming brighter and brighter. I think I'll try it myself.
The wiring for my lamp is going to be the most difficult aspect of my project, your video made it easier for me!
Wiring the pipe lamp can be a challenge but you got this !! If you have any problems I'm here to help
Use the green wire (Grounding Wire) and terminate it to the pipe or somewhere internally so that the fixture is grounded. IF the hot wire was to go to the pipe and it wasn't grounded the pipe would become energized and in the right conditions touching the fixture you would get shocked. It would keep from some one getting hurt for sure and it was already available. I would also use a white wire to make sure that polarity was being maintained to the socket. Other than that, it was a nice build, I think I may make one myself. Best Regards!
I was just about to say that... this could be a deadly item.... it needs to be grounded...
How does this not have more views! Great idea and awesome instructions.
hehe thanks friend!!
Thank you for talking and describing what you are doing on your video!! And thanks for the parts list also.
No worries, glad to help! Did you end up making the pipe lamp ?
WOW....I have seen several videos and the end product is ok....what you have made here is right up my alley and takes this to an artistic level that I love and is always what I am looking for. Ways I can infuse my style into a current trend. Great job...and you sneaky one you did not tell us how you made the bulbs appear to be lit from both ends....but I think I figured it out...anyway great work..more...
Just a heads up. If you use a 1/2 inch gate valve it will actually screw in to a 1 inch to 3/4 reducer hex. Use a little red lock tight and it will not come off.
You did a Badass Job Girl !!!!!
Ahhh thanks Chris we still use these pipe lamps on our night table !
I made a lamp by putting a pressure gauge and adding a fire sprinkler, it's great.
Making the switch is where I was stuck. It's a real take-away for me... Thanks for the video
Glad it helped, I really enjoyed figuring the light switch out.
Thanks for the tutorial. I like your honesty showing that mistakes happen and is ok; we just need correct them and continue until project is complete. Thanks again!
yes! sometimes it can be discouraging, but once you realise that its all just a part of the passion, its not so bad!
That was cool!!! Good job! Thanks for the close ups of the build process!
I’m looking for ideas for a steampunk/industrial style bankers lamp I can put on my upright piano. LOVE the valve switch!
Nice Design on the Switch I like your idea better than mine, but I was using 3/4 Copper and had a lot less room to work with. I use a miniature Toggle Switch and drilled a hole in the Gate to operate the Toggle switch.
finally finished for both ac and dc connections... ty tysmfs :)
hi Heidi....bellissimo progetto, brava!
My right ear love this video...
It's not just a little tricky, it's hard as hell to get the bonnet off. *giggles I guess* Wish I'd known how hard it was before purchasing the gate valve.
Omg 😍😍😍😍😍 beautiful…. Now i have new idea to do something unique. Thankyou beautiful 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
I'd say you made pretty good use of an otherwise flimsy situation. Nice shelves. 3:58
классная настольная лампа с зарядкой для Hand-Telefon
I wondered how I could make a water valve switch, thank you so much, you just helped me solve the problem. The first one I make will be because of you.. again thank you for the video, just awesome 👌 👏
Beautiful craft and presenter.
Consider soldering your connections first before using heat shrink. Great video!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing 👍
Amazing design and clever idea with the power switch!! But grounding is absolutely necessary when you use metal tubes ... otherwise it can cause ☠
Nice lamp! I hope that plastic tube holds up between the knob and the switch ;--)
gracias, gracias, graciasssssssss un abrazo desde colombia
Nice! Hope you make a steampunk look desktop computer😀
How do you not have more views and subs>?!?!? Your videos are amazing please don't stop making them!
Looks great keep it up!
Can you make a steampunk table lamp with 2 bulbs...one facing up the other down
If that long straight pipe nipple is black steel, make sure you degrease it with acetone first. They're all coated with a thin layer of oil so that they don't flash rust at the store. Definitely do not paint over an oily surface. It WILL fail.
Source: I have a shop where I paint cars and motorcycles.
I LOVE THIS! Super awesome Sunday project! Ha ha! I can’t wait to try this with the love of my life! ♥️💋 Thanks for sharing doll!
i know Im randomly asking but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost my password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Jimmy Johnny instablaster ;)
@Jamie Tristan Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jamie Tristan It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Jimmy Johnny Happy to help :D
I priced out all the parts needed to make the lamp here in Canada and it came out to $150. Is that crazy or decent for a lamp like this?
Gracias mil por el tutorial, te quedo fantastica!!! Ya me suscribi.
Hi, where can i see more details of the pipe & valve diameter? able to show the link to get those?
Im not shure about the video but what i find works best for wires and looks it 3/4 inch threaded pipe
Thanks for the great video. Are you able to share the link or product number for the dimmer switch you used?
Youve got a lot to learn, long journey still left but nice work btw, ive got a long journey too. Never stop learning shop skills. Cheers, also, use the mutlimeter continuity test to check your wiring works, dont need to plug anything in, or set it to resistance ohms and make sure it reads low resistance, as an open circuit or faulty connectuion has high resistance.
Thanks for the vid. But I think the 8” nipple is ¾ not 1” if I follow your build pic. You reduce to ¾ then increase back to an inch at the light fixture I believe. Your parts list says 1”x8” nipple.
have you tried to make a gooseneck lamp using teacups? i'd like to see a tutorial on that
Question: could you tell us the pipe parts you used? Especially the part where you added the light socket. thanks
Was wondering the same
thanks , I am going to do it
Hi, I love the video. Can you please give me advice on how you separate the faucet handle from the valve? Did you use a vice clamp or plumber's wrench? I bought the gate valve you recommended and I'm starting to strip the outside and I don't want to screw it up anymore. Thank you!
Did you end up figuring it out? I’m trying to do the same and I’m having the same issues as you!
@@sofiedimarco5851 Yeah, I got really lucky. I went to my local hardware store and they did it for me. Essentially, they clamped it down and then used two wrenches and some old man strength to get it unscrewed. I hope this helps you!
This is super helpful!! Subscribing for sure :)
Such a Great Video, Thank YOU 🙏
What was the spray you use for the pipes and for the wood to get brilliant?
Excelente!!! Felicitaciones!!
Fantastic
My favourite part of this project was figuring out how to turn a standard gate valve into a light switch.
really good video
Link for tthe switch???
Love it and thank you for share this one
How do you cut and thread all your piping to size?
Watching your video with headphones is so weird. I hear the music on both sides, your speaking voice just on my left and your recorded voice online on my right side 😄
I thought the voice was all on the same channel but it switches channels. So weird.
Great job! Love it!
This vid is wonderful, but, where do you get bulb holders that screw into the pile?? Bill
You are one awesome young lady.
Robot lamp!!!
How do you make sure the black iron dosnt stain when touched
Nice ideas!
Wow ...wish i could meet someone like you
Can you provide the link to the rotary switch please?
Tell me the exact model of the lamp switch. Thank you
What if you want to make one that wires directly into the wall?
wish you showed the light socket portion.
Awesome video, well done 🤙🏼
Замечательно👍
Instead of that tubing, try heat shrink tubing instead.
I love the video will you be doing more lamps!!??
definitely!! I've done a couple now tho, so not for a little bit. was thinking maybe a concrete lamp!!
@@TimberTea I was watching your concrete countertop video when you sent that haha
Hey, can you not solder the connections then heat shrink them?
Where can I get the socket and steel piece the socket goes into?
hey, Can you please share the link for the light shocket again? I can't access from here, thank you!
Do you think we could pack the pipe where the switch is with insulation to keep it from moving? Instead of using the welding glue? or both for extra measure.
How to find pipe sizes used ????
The prettiest youtuber ever
Hey! Really nice build, i loved it!
There are a few things that you could improve:
- start and ending voice volume are really low and the music really high - makes it really hard to hear you.
- lower the music volume overall
- when you lower the camera at 2:40 you also lowered the mic and the sound of your voice was coming from above and it was also lower
- when you move the camera back ~ 2:57 the volume bounces back and it creates a bad audio experience.
I hope you don't mind me pointing these things out but I like the video and I would love to see your channel grow.
I have a question I'm doing a steampunk lamp with the same switch set up but I have 2 bulbs and it keeps shorting out how do you do 2 bulbs?
Hi thanks for sharing. Can you please tell me which wire go to the main power and which go to the rotator switch (positive or negative)??? Thank you!
You’ve probably found out the answer already but if someone comes along looking for it…like I did.
Take the positive wire from the light socket and attach it to one of the wires on the rotary switch. Then the positive wire from the electrical cord connects to the other wire on the switch. Then connect the negative wire from the light socket to the negative wire on the power cord.
Well what about the green ground wire? If the lamp has a ground fault that could energize the metal pipes. That could cause problems such as fire or electrocution.
drill a small hole in an inconspicuous place, use a screw, nut & washer, wrap the green wire around & tightened. presto! fixture is grounded.
I can’t find the 3/4” gate valve anywhere. All of our hardware stores carry the plunger type.
I got mine from home depot you could also try Amazon.
Here's a great idea. When you are talking, record what you're saying and drop the music so we know whats happening. Great project if I knew what you were doing.
I admit i'm nervous to do this. Just because I doubt my design will sell. I'll go through all this trouble and money and no one will buy it. But I have some neat ideas I think. Do you sell these?
So nice! Do you connect hot wire or neutral wire to the rotary switch?or it don't matter?
you never switch a neural (white) always hot (black). keep the white neutral on the white wire of light sockets. this will make the screw shell cold & the center contact hot. i was an elecrician for 28 years. never dawned on me to build lamps from plumbing pipe!
Nice jiob👍
Do you have to use a grounding wire (ur toaster oven wire) or can u just connect the primary wire to the lamp wire like normal?
hey can it used for studing
I’m trying to make this for a gift but can you explain how phone charger works? I mean charging but sitting flat
So take a normal charging cord and slip it up through the slot I routered into the board from the bottom. Place a bead of silicon in the hole to hold the cord in place. I didn't show this very well in the video sorry !!
Also use a thicker board then I did the end of the charging cord doesn't like to bend or put feet on it like I did .. Let me know if you need anymore help !!
Awesome build. Do you have a list of pipe that you used? That way I'm not making 20 trips to Lowes hahaha
hahahaha which is totally what I did! you need:
1" flange
1"x1" nipple
1" t-pipe
1" hex
1"x3/4" hex
3/4"x6" nipple
3/4" 90' elbow
3/4"x1" 90' elbow
3/4"x3" nipple
1" close nipple
3/4"x1" reducer
hope that helps!!
@@TimberTea Thank you so much... for some reason UA-cam just sent me this alert that you posted this haha
@@TimberTea The reducer for the light socket needs to be 1" x 1.25"
Super
why cant u use 3/4" pipe tee, had to use 1" to 3/4" reucer thing for the valve turn thing.
The switch won't fit in 3/4" pipe tee very well. She says this in the video.
what he said :P
I'm working on a similar switch, I cut the threaded rod on the valve so that it can fit in a 1 inch T with the switch
Hi Madam
Very good product is possible to buy from you?
Does this gotta be grounded?
I don't think it actually does.. I've looked at a lot of lamps since I built this one and none of them are grounded !!
@@TimberTea thank you
Nice job . One little piece of advice though . Turn down the music so we can hear what you're saying a bit better .
What is the red stuff you put on the pipe threads?
Is the mobile phone charger connected to main lamp wiring? How is this done?
No it was on a separate plug
Good
So what went wrong that the light switch didn’t work? Did u forget to plug it?