Thanks for the video. Harness worked perfectly. Used solder and heat shrink rather than the connectors you did. Aside from that install was straight forward. Good product. Thanks to The Honda Resource for sending me your way with his door harness video.
Got the new connector installed over the weekend and everything works great again. WAY easier than replacing the pins! 5 bolts to get the door off, did one wire at a time, there were 4 or 5 more that had broken off since the last time I was in there and replaced the some pins and broken wires, great documentation with wire colors and wire sizes. Speaker works again, locks, windows, everything is great.
Mitch, you are a blessing. I ordered your harness, had it in 2 days, got it installed last night and all the windows and locks work perfectly ! thank you for what you do... Mark
Just received your harness and watched the video. Ready to install as soon as the weather gives me a chance. I will be leaving you feedback on eBay. Nice solid fix for the crv. Thanks!!!
Hi Mitch, my OEM wires are bad. No malice intended in this next question: is there any difference in design with the original factory plug versus your wire harnesses? The original design to have the wires just deal with the wear and tear of opening and closing the doors thousands of times throughout the decades is the true issue. Have you made your version of the wire harness to be more “secure” somehow? do they avoid the pulling of the door opening, or is the tension offset elsewhere? I didn’t notice a closeup of your harnesses. Might appear crude but For lack of better way of putting it - The original wires and plugs in all of these CRV’s are obviously 25 years old now, is the appeal of your product that they aren’t as worn down?
i use better wire than the oem txl wire. as for crimping, it does appear that some of the stamped leads that broke at the terminal where a bellmouth should have existed, didn't have a decent bellmouth, but it's speculation at this point now. ultimately I position the product to use the highest quality materials so the chances of this issue reintroducing itself are even lower.
I have 2001 CRV FWD. same issue, only the drivers side is affected. The master control on the drivers side can lower all windows except driver door, and no power locks all around. Would replacing the wiring harness fix the issue? Great vehicle otherwise.
Hey Mitch, my front passenger window does not roll down but rolls up. I found that out after I replaced the regulator/motor. Is the issue fixable with this harness? And if so, is this done on the driver side or passenger.
nice video.. i'm going to order one today. but what did you do with the excess wiring? you left a lot of slack. and does the kit come with heat shrink?
@@Mintonperformance Thank you, I just bought it via Ebay. Quick question, would it be ok to use heat shrink butt connectors for the installation? It's a civic so I'm guessing there will be less space than on the CRV you show in the video
@@davidgarzon-limberg2043 The drivers door lock/latch mechanism has an adjustment. My locks stopped working/worked sometimes and this was the issue. Try pulling the door handle on the outside of the door like you are opening it a little bit at a time while locking the car at the same time and see if it locks. If it does then the adjustment needs to be made on the metal rod that goes from the latch up to the door handle. Super pain in the A because it is the one that snaps into the door handle. The rod pushes on a little mechanism in the door lock/latch, if it doesn't engage it enough then the door will not lock, none of the door lock! Mine was double confusing because my door wires had also broken off at the pins so things were intermittent and some things just stopped working all together. Most complicated door lock system I have ever seen. I tried to purchase a new latch and it was like 400 dollars! At that price I just removed mine and really studied it, finally figured out what was going on and was able to adjust it and get it working again. Worked fine when I removed it from the car, got everything hooked back up and it wouldn't work again, that is when I realized the handle rod wasn't adjusted correctly and that is what was not letting the car lock. You will see if this is your issue, there are a few rods on the lock/latch, it is the rod that has the screw on connector on it. Super hard to explain, hope this helps.
hey eter! I haven't dug into a 2nd gen CR-V, have you verified the wiring harness is indeed failing? the 02+ used a different design for their door jambs
Mitch, I installed the harness a while back and the horn blows continuously now. Any ideas? I have them disconnected. Everything else works fine , door locks, windows , speakers.
the horn relay is in the lower kick panel where your left foot would be while driving. There's a gray wire there that's used between the steering wheel horn switch, a potential unconnected connector for anti-theft, and the keyless entry module. ita shorting out somewhere
thanks a bunch , I'll see if I can run it down. I had a feeling that it might have something to do with those modules and was probably open and just wasn't doing it while the wiring was all broken. @@Mintonperformance
I don't own any of the tools you used my man but my power locks are out and I changed the driver actuator already so I'm thinking it's this situation. What can I get away with buying at a minimum to do this job considering I don't know if I'll ever use wiring tools again? Also the fender panel can't be taken out by itself? Thought I saw someone in the fb group just take off the panel only.
Great Harness fit like a glove thank you ! Mitch .Sadly I still have an issue the front driver and pass door locks not working > does anyone know what could be causing this issue? I checked the color code and the connections several times they all seen to be in order .Hope someone may have an answer before I go back and re-splice all wires that are power door wires it would save me a lot of time. TY best, robert
passenger door harness is broken or intermittent connection as well, same thing happens on that side of door harness connector, or there is a short in wire above the spliced in area.
I cut the harness coming from inside the door as well as the one from the fender in an attempt to splice the wires together. nothing is working well now. How would I manage to fix this? will I need any more parts then just your replacement part? Any help is appreciated thanks.
@@joshuamarshall1797 ultimately something isn't wired correctly. if you cut the plugs entirely before splicing, you're just gonna have to go circuit by circuit until you get things operational. start by testing every circuit, eliminate the correctly working circuits from the problem circuits, then just start testing 1 at a time with the helms manual for operation
I just ordered one of your harnesses. Hopefully it’ll solve my power lock issue with the passengers side, & both rear doors. Is this common to cause those issues as well?
Bought two of your harness I’m having trouble with the passenger side the wires from fender are 10 wires and passenger door jamb has 14 wires and the wires colors don’t match
Waiting for my order now, but have started prepping. Also noticed 2 Yellow/Red's. If both wires detached, you can't try to match up like you described in the video. I did notice though that one of the yellow/reds is thicker than the other, so would I assume that that would be B1(Yellow/Red 16) and the thinner would be B2(Yellow/Red 20)?
That's correct. The (yellow/red 16) will be the thicker one, and the (yellow/red 20) will be the thinner one. There's 3 blue wires as well. B4, B5, and E4.
@@xanderrobertson7486 check to see the wiring from the motor is working, should be red/yellow and red/blue. should show 12v or - 12v when measuring with the motor switch
Quick question....If I’m wiring aftermarket speakers to the front door (powered by a 4 channel amp). do I need to go through that front section or can I wire em another way??
@@Mintonperformance Is it necessary to take off the front fender when wiring things through the front harness? also do I need to buy anything or can I just shove the speaker wire in with the jamb...???
I've had to change up how I'm going about making them and am having to reuse the original connector. covid shortages hit this connector and it's no longer being manufactured
currently they're on backorder, im working to get inventory back up as covid shut down all manufacturing of the connectors from the oem manufacturer. so now I'm having to source original harnesses, depin them, clean them, and reterminate them.
@@Mintonperformance OMW to junkyard tomorrow to see if I can salvage one. How to repair? Can you clean all the grease off and start fresh? Is it possible to reconnect broken wires in the OEM moldex connector?
@@michaeldelvalle1642 I have 1 available currently, I've been catching up on production and had to change my structure to use original connectors as the manufacturer completed obsoleted the connector
@@adildriouech1293 it will certainly work, but the pinout will be different than the colors of wire used on RD1's. I supply a blank template to populate all the colors into a diagram to then be referenced for splicing
@@Mintonperformance Man, that sucks. You made a great effort here. Think I.m going to straight solder the wires, shrink wrap and zip tip to reinforce. At least my ground and red/white wire is out and must be at least one more after troubleshooting. This video is awesome. Thanks!
@@Mintonperformance reason I ask is. I put in a new driver's window motor and window still does not function. Ordered a new window control switch assembly and it will be here any minute. Hope that fixes it. Other issue is the drivers speaker does not work either. So it's a blown speaker and a bad switch or, the harness is failing.
@@Mintonperformance I need 1 I also have another civic that doesn't have power windows just power locks the civic VP and the other im needing has both p/w and locks
Thanks for the video. Harness worked perfectly. Used solder and heat shrink rather than the connectors you did. Aside from that install was straight forward. Good product. Thanks to The Honda Resource for sending me your way with his door harness video.
Got the new connector installed over the weekend and everything works great again. WAY easier than replacing the pins! 5 bolts to get the door off, did one wire at a time, there were 4 or 5 more that had broken off since the last time I was in there and replaced the some pins and broken wires, great documentation with wire colors and wire sizes. Speaker works again, locks, windows, everything is great.
Thanks to you I was able to do the job and now everything works perfectly
Mitch, you are a blessing. I ordered your harness, had it in 2 days, got it installed last night and all the windows and locks work perfectly ! thank you for what you do... Mark
You're welcome Mark :)
Just received your harness and watched the video. Ready to install as soon as the weather gives me a chance. I will be leaving you feedback on eBay. Nice solid fix for the crv. Thanks!!!
You're welcome :) thank you for entrusting me with a solution
Hi Mitch, my OEM wires are bad.
No malice intended in this next question: is there any difference in design with the original factory plug versus your wire harnesses? The original design to have the wires just deal with the wear and tear of opening and closing the doors thousands of times throughout the decades is the true issue. Have you made your version of the wire harness to be more “secure” somehow? do they avoid the pulling of the door opening, or is the tension offset elsewhere? I didn’t notice a closeup of your harnesses.
Might appear crude but For lack of better way of putting it - The original wires and plugs in all of these CRV’s are obviously 25 years old now, is the appeal of your product that they aren’t as worn down?
i use better wire than the oem txl wire.
as for crimping, it does appear that some of the stamped leads that broke at the terminal where a bellmouth should have existed, didn't have a decent bellmouth, but it's speculation at this point now.
ultimately I position the product to use the highest quality materials so the chances of this issue reintroducing itself are even lower.
I have 2001 CRV FWD. same issue, only the drivers side is affected. The master control on the drivers side can lower all windows except driver door, and no power locks all around. Would replacing the wiring harness fix the issue? Great vehicle otherwise.
pulling the fender to check the harness is the only real surefire way. but it does sound like it's the issue.
Hey Mitch, my front passenger window does not roll down but rolls up. I found that out after I replaced the regulator/motor. Is the issue fixable with this harness? And if so, is this done on the driver side or passenger.
Nice! Keep em coming!
Quality of video is on point and extremely informative.
I appreciate the kind words
nice video.. i'm going to order one today. but what did you do with the excess wiring? you left a lot of slack. and does the kit come with heat shrink?
i pushed it inside the cabin
Hi Mitch, this is precisely what I need for my 98 civic. Is the diagram that you use included with the harness?
yes , it's included with every order
@@Mintonperformance Thank you, I just bought it via Ebay. Quick question, would it be ok to use heat shrink butt connectors for the installation? It's a civic so I'm guessing there will be less space than on the CRV you show in the video
@@davidgarzon-limberg2043 absolutely, I recommend staggering the splices in 2 or 3 different lengths to avoid the volume being all in 1 spot.
@@davidgarzon-limberg2043 The drivers door lock/latch mechanism has an adjustment. My locks stopped working/worked sometimes and this was the issue. Try pulling the door handle on the outside of the door like you are opening it a little bit at a time while locking the car at the same time and see if it locks. If it does then the adjustment needs to be made on the metal rod that goes from the latch up to the door handle. Super pain in the A because it is the one that snaps into the door handle. The rod pushes on a little mechanism in the door lock/latch, if it doesn't engage it enough then the door will not lock, none of the door lock! Mine was double confusing because my door wires had also broken off at the pins so things were intermittent and some things just stopped working all together. Most complicated door lock system I have ever seen. I tried to purchase a new latch and it was like 400 dollars! At that price I just removed mine and really studied it, finally figured out what was going on and was able to adjust it and get it working again. Worked fine when I removed it from the car, got everything hooked back up and it wouldn't work again, that is when I realized the handle rod wasn't adjusted correctly and that is what was not letting the car lock. You will see if this is your issue, there are a few rods on the lock/latch, it is the rod that has the screw on connector on it. Super hard to explain, hope this helps.
i just purchased the harness. Do you provide the sheet for the connections on your website?
@@eddiesantos5928 I do.
Good day Mitch. Great video. Do you have any harnesses for a 2004 Honda CRV? If so. How may I get one please? Thanks
hey eter! I haven't dug into a 2nd gen CR-V, have you verified the wiring harness is indeed failing? the 02+ used a different design for their door jambs
Mitch, I installed the harness a while back and the horn blows continuously now. Any ideas? I have them disconnected. Everything else works fine , door locks, windows , speakers.
the horn relay is in the lower kick panel where your left foot would be while driving.
There's a gray wire there that's used between the steering wheel horn switch, a potential unconnected connector for anti-theft, and the keyless entry module.
ita shorting out somewhere
thanks a bunch , I'll see if I can run it down. I had a feeling that it might have something to do with those modules and was probably open and just wasn't doing it while the wiring was all broken. @@Mintonperformance
I don't own any of the tools you used my man but my power locks are out and I changed the driver actuator already so I'm thinking it's this situation. What can I get away with buying at a minimum to do this job considering I don't know if I'll ever use wiring tools again? Also the fender panel can't be taken out by itself? Thought I saw someone in the fb group just take off the panel only.
You can find me on Facebook, mitch Minton. That's the best route
Great Harness fit like a glove thank you ! Mitch .Sadly I still have an issue the front driver and pass door locks not working > does anyone know what could be causing this issue? I checked the color code and the connections several times they all seen to be in order .Hope someone may have an answer before I go back and re-splice all wires that are power door wires it would save me a lot of time. TY best, robert
passenger door harness is broken or intermittent connection as well, same thing happens on that side of door harness connector, or there is a short in wire above the spliced in area.
I cut the harness coming from inside the door as well as the one from the fender in an attempt to splice the wires together. nothing is working well now.
How would I manage to fix this? will I need any more parts then just your replacement part?
Any help is appreciated thanks.
to understand clearly, you attempted to bypass the plug entirely?
@@Mintonperformance yes the wires are spliced to eachother now.
When it was working my fob would open the window and the drivers side window would unlock the car
@@joshuamarshall1797 ultimately something isn't wired correctly. if you cut the plugs entirely before splicing, you're just gonna have to go circuit by circuit until you get things operational. start by testing every circuit, eliminate the correctly working circuits from the problem circuits, then just start testing 1 at a time with the helms manual for operation
@@Mintonperformance would your harness still work at this point
I just ordered one of your harnesses. Hopefully it’ll solve my power lock issue with the passengers side, & both rear doors. Is this common to cause those issues as well?
it is, the power door lock module is inside the driver's door, and sends current through 2 wires going to the other 3 doors
Would this apply to Honda CRV 2005? If so, u think I could grab the door harness from a junk yard from another CRV?
02 and up it will not fit. they didn't use the same connection as the 97-01s
@@Mintonperformance so this won’t be the exact thing as changing out my door harness on my CRV 2005
@@fishywishy4145 that's correct.
@@Mintonperformance ok thanks
Hey im trying to order the harness but it says sold out im wondering if itll be in stock soon ?
yeah I got more connectors coming . they should be arriving by next week, so im expecting it to be next weekend I'll have more ready to fulfill orders
what do you use to cover the extra 8 inches of wire that no longer fits into the harness? and is there room to tuck it cleanly away ?
i push it back into the cabin
Hi ,perfect video. are the harness the same for both doors?L and R and how can i order it?
yes, replacement harnesses are the same for both sides. splicing is the only difference
for ordering, email me at mitchminton@gmail.com
BTW
We really like the connectors/crimper you used, could you link to where we can buy ?
Thanks
crimper is a hozan p706/p707 series crimper.
Bought two of your harness I’m having trouble with the passenger side the wires from fender are 10 wires and passenger door jamb has 14 wires and the wires colors don’t match
email me if you can, mitchminton@gmail.com.
im not entirely following. i populate every position in my harnesses which would have 25 wires.
Can this harness be used to completely eliminate the original?
yes
Waiting for my order now, but have started prepping. Also noticed 2 Yellow/Red's. If both wires detached, you can't try to match up like you described in the video. I did notice though that one of the yellow/reds is thicker than the other, so would I assume that that would be B1(Yellow/Red 16) and the thinner would be B2(Yellow/Red 20)?
That's correct. The (yellow/red 16) will be the thicker one, and the (yellow/red 20) will be the thinner one.
There's 3 blue wires as well. B4, B5, and E4.
@@Mintonperformance so I wired this in and the lock works but the window will not move. Any idea which wire that could be?
@@xanderrobertson7486 check to see the wiring from the motor is working, should be red/yellow and red/blue. should show 12v or - 12v when measuring with the motor switch
Quick question....If I’m wiring aftermarket speakers to the front door (powered by a 4 channel amp). do I need to go through that front section or can I wire em another way??
for the best practices and cleanest look, id wire them through the door jamb connector, the terminals i have available and a crimper would be needed
@@Mintonperformance Is it necessary to take off the front fender when wiring things through the front harness? also do I need to buy anything or can I just shove the speaker wire in with the jamb...???
You have any of these for sale? I'm looking to buy one
Email in the description
Your current URL link to ebay does not work. Are you still selling these ?
Thanks !!! Great Video
I've had to change up how I'm going about making them and am having to reuse the original connector. covid shortages hit this connector and it's no longer being manufactured
Hello, could you help me, I would like to know where you got the diagram.
i made it
I feel like the replacement harness could be half that length.
always can shorten them, difficult to make them longer :)
i didn’t hear the harness company name or a website to order from
mintonperformance.com
How would I go about getting two of these?
email me my first and last name at gmail dot com
How can I get one of your driver's side harnesses for 2000 Honda CR V? And how much are they?
currently they're on backorder, im working to get inventory back up as covid shut down all manufacturing of the connectors from the oem manufacturer. so now I'm having to source original harnesses, depin them, clean them, and reterminate them.
@@Mintonperformance OMW to junkyard tomorrow to see if I can salvage one. How to repair? Can you clean all the grease off and start fresh? Is it possible to reconnect broken wires in the OEM moldex connector?
How do I purchase your harness ?
email mitchminton@gmail.com
Mitch Minton do you have any more Pigtail Connectors Wiring Harnesses for 01 CRV?
i do, I pulled my ebay sales ad down because of the limited quantities left
@@Mintonperformance i need to order one can i contact you through fb or gmail? If so please lmk
@@luisdrivera2191 yes sir, my email is mitchminton@gmail.com
How can i purchase the harness?
Ok. Please let me know when you have the harness available again.
I'm hoping to have a batch completed in about 2 weeks
@@Mintonperformance perfect, Mitch. Do you have an email address you'd share so that I can send you my contact info?
@@johnunruh7119 my first and last name at Gmail :)
legend , nice video
thank you !
Where can I find the harness? The link in the description says item is no longer available.
I've got 4 connectors left before I'm sold out. if you're interested, feel free to reach out to me at mitchminton@gmail.com
@@Mintonperformance hey mitch you still have any harnesses available?
@@michaeldelvalle1642 I have 1 available currently, I've been catching up on production and had to change my structure to use original connectors as the manufacturer completed obsoleted the connector
Do you still have more parts, I Need one for my 2000 Honda Civic LX sedan.
I've got supplies for just a few left.
Would it work on 2000 Civic?
If it does, where is it listed?
@@adildriouech1293 it will certainly work, but the pinout will be different than the colors of wire used on RD1's. I supply a blank template to populate all the colors into a diagram to then be referenced for splicing
Hey man can you send me a pic of the diagram. The one on ebay is too blurred. Thankyou!
On Facebook by chance? If so, message me and i can get you the docs
@@Mintonperformance hey could I please get a picture of the diagram as well. I can't find one anywhere and I'm trying to finish my car
@@JahlaniRobertsMusic send me a message on Facebook and I'll send it over
How can I purchase one of your repair harnesses?
head over to mintonperformance.com, ill be shipping out Monday (it says 0 stock, but I have them)
Trying to place the order but since it says out of stock it won’t let me place anything in the cart
How do you order the harness?
mintonperformance.com
Great video. how can I order one as the ebay link is not working?
the connector was obsoleted by the manufacturer so it have no ability to make them any more unfortunately
@@Mintonperformance Man, that sucks. You made a great effort here. Think I.m going to straight solder the wires, shrink wrap and zip tip to reinforce. At least my ground and red/white wire is out and must be at least one more after troubleshooting. This video is awesome. Thanks!
He makes them again
@@kellymyers8671 He makes them again
Does a 2006 crv suffer the same issue?
not that I've observed, but if it does, it's not the same connector.
@@Mintonperformance thank you so much.. Great video by the way.
@@Mintonperformance reason I ask is. I put in a new driver's window motor and window still does not function. Ordered a new window control switch assembly and it will be here any minute. Hope that fixes it. Other issue is the drivers speaker does not work either.
So it's a blown speaker and a bad switch or, the harness is failing.
@@Deeked its possible they are falling to the same fate, but i haven't heard many cases of it
@@Mintonperformance I just tested the speaker with a 1.5 volt battery. It pops so not looking good. I suppose it could be the factory had unit.
Does this harness work on passenger side
It certainly does. It will work for either side of the front doors
Mitch Minton thank you I jus ordered mine. Wil be ordering another one one I install my first one
Do u still sell them???
yes sir, mintonperformance.com
I need these
mintonperformance.com is where you can order one
How can I order one of your harnesses?
I'll be updating my inventory tonight. just made a batch that I'm finishing up
Sounds good, I need one of these! Would make my crv much more enjoyable!
@@420stoner14 available now
eBay link not available
updated to address the situation.
will this fit a 1996 civic??
yes, it will, the documentation just won't apply to the civic, as the wire colors will be different
@@Mintonperformance cool thanks, do i just order from e-bay? or from you?
@@waltermaggrah7656 either way works. going directly saves sales tax.
PayPal : mitchminton@gmail.com
Is there any for civics 96 to 2000 4dr
yes, the door jamb harness i build works for the 96-00 civics also
@@Mintonperformance I need 1 I also have another civic that doesn't have power windows just power locks the civic VP and the other im needing has both p/w and locks
@@2koolforyou88 send an inquiry to mitchminton@gmail.com
@@Mintonperformance ok thanks
I found it is a lot easier to just take the door off the car to do the job.
That's way to much work for such a repair . Bout to just pay someone to fix it
2 door si
96-00 Civic's use the exact same plug, just different pinout for wiring