My local Suzuki dealers told me not to touch center bolt so i was cussing when I went to fit it and noticed it wasn't going to retract.. I didn't force it, rather made a cup of tea and fired up the internet. This video saved me a headache or worse. Cheers Rick :)
Appreciate you making this, made my gasket swap easier. I did remove the exhaust, made the job easier for sure. Did not find TDC, just didn't turn the motor after CCT was out. Fired right up after reinstall.
So I ended up replacing the gasket no problems at all. I didn't worry about finding top dead centre and as I didn't move the bike at all whilst replacing the gasket I found it went back together fine, started and did an hour ride with no problems... including leaks. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for the guide, the forum posts I was finding weren't covering this. Getting it all mounted back in place involved less struggle and swearing than I expected.
I just replaced that gasket on my 99 DR650 today, thank you for the video by the way, it was a nice pre wrenching refresher on the auto tensioner on these bikes. I did mine without removing the oil return lines or the exhaust pipe, or the clutch cable bracket. Like you said, it would make life easier as far as removing the baked on old gasket, but not necessary by any means. That old gasket was on there so good, i ended up using paint thinner and scotch pad to remove it. They really ought to fix that blemish on these bikes, i was so sick of driving mine around with a messy leaky engine, leaving puddles of oil everywhere I went. LOL
Thanks for the video, another good reason to own a DR is the generously shared knowledge of them.Going to do this as soon as i can get a new gasket, maybe tomorrow, and also check the valve lash and put the rooster in the starter motor out of its misery at the same time by greasing the bearings properly.
I was very confused about Cam Chain Tensioners, until I watched this.Thank you for your tutorial. This answered all of my questions. I have a 99 GSXR 600 SRAD that is beginning to rattle at low revs.
i know Im randomly asking but does anyone know a way to log back into an instagram account?? I was stupid forgot the account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me
@Alvaro Armando i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I have a 2010 Arctic Cat 700 and this same tensioner is on it- I think the engine might have been mfg by Suzuki. This video saved me from really messing things up. i had to remove this tensioner to get my starter out and could not get it back in. After seeing how the screw works to reset it, reinstalling the tensioner was a snap.
This has been up for a few years but really helped me. I have a non standard larger diameter exhaust and found there was no way to do the job without taking the exhaust off. Thanks for posting.
Nice vid, thanks to make this clear! a tip i read somewhere on the Internet: when you remove the tensioner, hold the screw when you pull it out just like you put it in. You will, then, get an idea about your timing chain state (my hornet is 115000km, i am pretty curious about it)
🤘🏻MY DR Brother from another motorcycle mother thank you so much for making this video perfect exactly what I'm going to do today and I probably would have screwed it up if I didn't watch your video you just saved the fellow rider a Of stress
Really really thank you and God bless you for this tutorial. Getting tensioner out was easy, but putting it back was blowing my mind. Until I saw this... :)
turn in the lil flat head screw inside the tensioner and hold it with your hand , and put the lil end bolt on ,Install the tensioner Remove the end bolt / The tensioner will adjust . / then install the end bolt
First off, Thanks for the Video and explaining the tensioner for those who do Not know how it works! HOWEVER, I would add, PLEASE, PLEASE CLEAN off all the Dirt, Sand, Grit and Crap from around the tensioner and lines BEFORE you open your motor up. The motor does not need the dirt and grit inside to run properly. Also If you get sand between the gasket or the banjo bolt fitting.. It WIll Leak, AND then you....GetTo Do It All Over Again! I can Confirm you do not need to put the motor at Top Dead Center to remove it.... Also, Actually the plunger is Not Spring Tensioned. The screw that moves the plunger forward is spring rotated. THAT is why the plunger can not be forced back once it has been moved forward by rotation of the screw during the tension Take-up procedure. Thanks Again
You may be lucky that your engine stopped at or near TDC when you did remove the tensioner. I have seen a few which were not that lucky and lost timing. The engine does not have a guide underneath the crankshaft timing chain sprocket and if you release the tensioner in the wrong position it WILL jump by one tooth. Fixing this is tedious. Firstly you will only realise something is wrong because all of a sudden the performance is shite. One tooth off fortunately is not enough to bend valves but the bike does not go. To fix it you will have to remove the rocker box and the camshaft sprocket. better to just do the job with the engine at TDC.
This is the tutorial I woud have wanted to watch as well, before removing the Cam Chain Tensioner of my XF650 two years ago. 2 hell hours of "what the xyz!!" :D
Thanks a lot for the video! You need to take the cam chain tensioner out in order to take the starter motor out, and in order to take the starter motor out, you need to remove the exhaust anyway. Unfortunately I also have crash protection bars installed which need to be taken off in order to remove the exhaust😥😥
yes , it i have doen a few of these on differnet bikes and they usually have a lock mechanism built into to them in some way shape or form . the hydrauliv ktm one locks if you click it all the way back , then you push it forward against the cam chain and release to dis engage . the one liek you have in this video i the same as husqvarna and many others , if you srew it in all the way to the stop , you then turn it harder just a fraction more and it will lock into place , makes it alot easier to install , tighten the bolts , then give it one small turn back to get it to release .
great video. I found if you screw tensioner screw in all the way and tighten it down it will stay in place. Once CCT is bolted down turn screw back and plunger will engage chain.
Hmm...I didn't notice that mine did that. It seemed to spring back as soon as the screw was released. I'd be curious if anyone else had the same experience as you. It would be fiendishly clever of Suzuki to have actually engineered that feature into the design. In fact, if it doesn't work that way, it should. It would make life much easier.
yeah I think it was definitely a fluke. It was first oil leak on my dr650 with 15,900 miles on it. Wasn't sure how I was going to be able to hold the screwdriver, put tensioner in place then thread two bolts in all the while making sure that screwdriver didn't slip and have to start all over. Just turned screw all the way in and just tightened a little more and plunger did not move. Couldn't believe it either. Just lucky for sure.
+Rick Silberman I know this is an old video, and thank you for making it. I just wanted to note that per these instructions, you turn the screw a little bit the opposite direction once it's fully retracted, and that locks the tensioner back! Fiendishly clever and maybe this comment will help someone else that watches your video... www.thumpertalk.com/topic/613297-cam-chain-tensioner-gasket-leak/
Awesome tutorial. This is probably the best explanation I've seen of the cam chain tensioner to date. I've developed an oil leak over the last few days that appears to be the CCT gasket, so I'm going to be checking this out. As a side note, to get rid of the wobbly distortion effect, you can turn off the auto smoothing thing that UA-cam wants to do when you upload.
Hi Rick! Great video! I am having to replace this gasket for the second time in a year or so. I was wondering if you used permatex on the new gasket? I noticed the original gasket was thicker than the OEM paper replacement and did not put any sealant on the gasket the last time I repaired it. Thanks again for the great instructional vid!
loved the video very well explained !! I was wondering I have replaced the gasket easliey enough as per this video but I did not find top dead centre prior to removing it the bike hasn't moved since pulling it apart and I'm hoping that I can just simply put it back together ...any thoughts ?
Sorry, this question is beyond my pay grade. I'm GUESSING that if you put it back together it will be fine. Perhaps, you can tell us what you end up doing and how it worked out.
Great video! I have a 2017 sv 650. The bike sounds great when cold. One it’s ridden for a while, especially in hot days, it starts to make a weird noise, like a rattle or clack... under light load at about 4000rpm. Sounds like its coming from the right rear side. Could a faulty chain tensioner cause that? And only when hot? All the best!!!
Hi great video thank you. I'm going to try and the replace the gasket if I as unable to get the suzuki original is there something you could recommend, thanx info advance
Thanks for posting this tutorial. I've noticed a minor?leak around the cct housing spreading around cooling fins.Did yours do this as well? Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I just want to confirm that if I remove the cam chain tensioner it will not cause the piston to fall or cause any huge issues. I have oil leaking from the cam chain tensioner and would like to just replace it with a new one. My thought is to take out the old one and put in a new one.. Will that be OK to do?
Removing the CCT shouldn't have any effect on the piston. As noted, I set the cam at TDC, but others have not - to no ill effect. Not sure why you want to replace the CCT with a new one. I can't imagine there would be any problem doing so, but why? Do you have some reason to believe there is something wrong with the old one? Usually when they leak it is a simple matter of replacing the gasket.
Thanks for the response Rick, and thanks for the video. I have found with my 83 virago it's just easier to replace parts than try to fix them. However that being said, I was able to pop the cap off the CCT add some new silicon and the leak stopped.
Rick, how did you get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke without taking the valve cover off? Is there any trick to taking the oil lines off? When the motor is cool, the lines should be clear, and there shouldn't be any mess right? How did you get the plunger screw to stay in while you were bolting the tensioner to the motor? You *just* used permatex right? No actual gasket?
There are lots of videos on how to find TDC, but I'm not at all sure that it is necessary to do if you are careful not to move anything when it's apart. There was no leakage when removing the oil lines. Keeping the screw withdrawn is what made this job awkward. Just use your third hand (kidding). But if you read the other replies, some people seem to think that if you withdraw the screw all the way that it will keep itself withdrawn. If you find that is the case, let us know. It would make the job WAY easier. I used a gasket, no Permatex.
Remove cap from timing hole. Rotate the crankshaft (most engines should be turned counter clockwise) until the T on the rotor is aligned with the index mark in the timing hole.
If you screw it back far enough until the spring jams the mechanism you put excessive stress onto the ends of the spring and that's exactly where I found a few of the springs broken.
Hi there; Why you have to replace the cam tensioner? Im having a weird problem in my DR, it work fine when it´s cold, but when it gets warm you start to ear a noise like a chain scraping in something... The chain is new, the tensioner is old, do you think i have to change it? Tks for all Best regards; Ivo
You could have tried this. Remove the tensioner and Ensure it extends automatically and the plunger can not be pushed back into the retracted position. IF it works fine , try inserting the tensioner (with out bolts) with it fully extended. IF the tensioner can be pushed up against the gasket surface, that indicates the cam chain/slider has stretched/worn beyond it service limit... Take Care
Oh no! Do NOT use Permatex on the banjo bolt fittings!! The top and bottom washers are special sealing washers, designed to slightly crush under a mild-moderate torque. If these washers are leaking, then go buy new ones. Never, ever use any sealing compound on oil line banjo fittings! With correct top and bottom washers and correct tightening of the banjo bolt, these fittings will not leak or come loose. Jeez.
My local Suzuki dealers told me not to touch center bolt so i was cussing when I went to fit it and noticed it wasn't going to retract.. I didn't force it, rather made a cup of tea and fired up the internet. This video saved me a headache or worse.
Cheers Rick :)
+Tone H they must have wanted you to wreck it, nice guys.
i just changed my gasket on my dr650. This really gave me confidence. No more oil leak. feels good! Thanks for your video
Exactly what i was looking for, thank you. Really didn't want to break anything, glad i watched.
Appreciate you making this, made my gasket swap easier.
I did remove the exhaust, made the job easier for sure.
Did not find TDC, just didn't turn the motor after CCT was out. Fired right up after reinstall.
So I ended up replacing the gasket no problems at all. I didn't worry about finding top dead centre and as I didn't move the bike at all whilst replacing the gasket I found it went back together fine, started and did an hour ride with no problems... including leaks. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks so much for this video. Knowing what to do is half the battle.
Thanks for the guide, the forum posts I was finding weren't covering this. Getting it all mounted back in place involved less struggle and swearing than I expected.
I just replaced that gasket on my 99 DR650 today, thank you for the video by the way, it was a nice pre wrenching refresher on the auto tensioner on these bikes. I did mine without removing the oil return lines or the exhaust pipe, or the clutch cable bracket. Like you said, it would make life easier as far as removing the baked on old gasket, but not necessary by any means. That old gasket was on there so good, i ended up using paint thinner and scotch pad to remove it. They really ought to fix that blemish on these bikes, i was so sick of driving mine around with a messy leaky engine, leaving puddles of oil everywhere I went. LOL
Thanks for the video, another good reason to own a DR is the generously shared knowledge of them.Going to do this as soon as i can get a new gasket, maybe tomorrow, and also check the valve lash and put the rooster in the starter motor out of its misery at the same time by greasing the bearings properly.
I was very confused about Cam Chain Tensioners, until I watched this.Thank you for your tutorial. This answered all of my questions. I have a 99 GSXR 600 SRAD that is beginning to rattle at low revs.
i know Im randomly asking but does anyone know a way to log back into an instagram account??
I was stupid forgot the account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me
@Kaiser James instablaster =)
@Alvaro Armando i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Alvaro Armando it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
@Kaiser James You are welcome =)
I have a 2010 Arctic Cat 700 and this same tensioner is on it- I think the engine might have been mfg by Suzuki. This video saved me from really messing things up. i had to remove this tensioner to get my starter out and could not get it back in. After seeing how the screw works to reset it, reinstalling the tensioner was a snap.
Out of all the cct installation vidz this is the most informative, thanks
Thanks for the video. This seems straightforward enough.
This has been up for a few years but really helped me. I have a non standard larger diameter exhaust and found there was no way to do the job without taking the exhaust off. Thanks for posting.
how hard was it to remove the Exhaust? its a pain to get the Gasket off.
This was really helpful I have a 450 quadking and you just helped me figure out how to get the plunger back
Thank you. I'm going to tackle this job in a couple of days. i really appreciate the video.
Great Video. I just did my TTR and the screw was a pain in the ass to get off, but finally got it !
Nice vid, thanks to make this clear! a tip i read somewhere on the Internet: when you remove the tensioner, hold the screw when you pull it out just like you put it in. You will, then, get an idea about your timing chain state (my hornet is 115000km, i am pretty curious about it)
🤘🏻MY DR Brother from another motorcycle mother thank you so much for making this video perfect exactly what I'm going to do today and I probably would have screwed it up if I didn't watch your video you just saved the fellow rider a Of stress
Really really thank you and God bless you for this tutorial. Getting tensioner out was easy, but putting it back was blowing my mind. Until I saw this... :)
turn in the lil flat head screw inside the tensioner and hold it with your hand , and put the lil end bolt on ,Install the tensioner Remove the end bolt / The tensioner will adjust . / then install the end bolt
Great video! I found the job way easier to remove the exhaust header than to try to work around it.
First off, Thanks for the Video and explaining the tensioner for those who do Not know how it works! HOWEVER, I would add, PLEASE, PLEASE CLEAN off all the Dirt, Sand, Grit and Crap from around the tensioner and lines BEFORE you open your motor up. The motor does not need the dirt and grit inside to run properly. Also If you get sand between the gasket or the banjo bolt fitting.. It WIll Leak, AND then you....GetTo Do It All Over Again!
I can Confirm you do not need to put the motor at Top Dead Center to remove it....
Also, Actually the plunger is Not Spring Tensioned. The screw that moves the plunger forward is spring rotated. THAT is why the plunger can not be forced back once it has been moved forward by rotation of the screw during the tension Take-up procedure.
Thanks Again
You may be lucky that your engine stopped at or near TDC when you did remove the tensioner. I have seen a few which were not that lucky and lost timing. The engine does not have a guide underneath the crankshaft timing chain sprocket and if you release the tensioner in the wrong position it WILL jump by one tooth. Fixing this is tedious. Firstly you will only realise something is wrong because all of a sudden the performance is shite. One tooth off fortunately is not enough to bend valves but the bike does not go. To fix it you will have to remove the rocker box and the camshaft sprocket. better to just do the job with the engine at TDC.
This is the tutorial I woud have wanted to watch as well, before removing the Cam Chain Tensioner of my XF650 two years ago. 2 hell hours of "what the xyz!!" :D
Great video man!!! Thanks!
Cheers mate ,all the info l needed.
Thanks a lot for the video! You need to take the cam chain tensioner out in order to take the starter motor out, and in order to take the starter motor out, you need to remove the exhaust anyway. Unfortunately I also have crash protection bars installed which need to be taken off in order to remove the exhaust😥😥
Blessed, different bike but pretty much the same on my ttr250
Wish I had watched this video before i did my one yesterday hopefully I can take the pressure off it today with it still on the bike
Cheers
Nice video! Thanks for sharing
exelente video desde colombia un abrazo
yes , it i have doen a few of these on differnet bikes and they usually have a lock mechanism built into to them in some way shape or form . the hydrauliv ktm one locks if you click it all the way back , then you push it forward against the cam chain and release to dis engage . the one liek you have in this video i the same as husqvarna and many others , if you srew it in all the way to the stop , you then turn it harder just a fraction more and it will lock into place , makes it alot easier to install , tighten the bolts , then give it one small turn back to get it to release .
Very helpful. Thanks
you did a good job
This helped with my Yamaha Timberwolf
great video. Thank you sir.
great video. I found if you screw tensioner screw in all the way and tighten it down it will stay in place. Once CCT is bolted down turn screw back and plunger will engage chain.
Hmm...I didn't notice that mine did that. It seemed to spring back as soon as the screw was released. I'd be curious if anyone else had the same experience as you. It would be fiendishly clever of Suzuki to have actually engineered that feature into the design. In fact, if it doesn't work that way, it should. It would make life much easier.
yeah I think it was definitely a fluke. It was first oil leak on my dr650 with 15,900 miles on it. Wasn't sure how I was going to be able to hold the screwdriver, put tensioner in place then thread two bolts in all the while making sure that screwdriver didn't slip and have to start all over. Just turned screw all the way in and just tightened a little more and plunger did not move. Couldn't believe it either. Just lucky for sure.
+Rick Silberman I know this is an old video, and thank you for making it. I just wanted to note that per these instructions, you turn the screw a little bit the opposite direction once it's fully retracted, and that locks the tensioner back! Fiendishly clever and maybe this comment will help someone else that watches your video... www.thumpertalk.com/topic/613297-cam-chain-tensioner-gasket-leak/
@@ljones4203 this exactly. Not a fluke and most Suzuki auto tensioners have this feature.
Awesome tutorial. This is probably the best explanation I've seen of the cam chain tensioner to date. I've developed an oil leak over the last few days that appears to be the CCT gasket, so I'm going to be checking this out. As a side note, to get rid of the wobbly distortion effect, you can turn off the auto smoothing thing that UA-cam wants to do when you upload.
Thanks. I finally figured out how to get rid of the dreaded image stabilization. Much better.
very helpful thanks
good video thanks
Hi Rick! Great video! I am having to replace this gasket for the second time in a year or so. I was wondering if you used permatex on the new gasket? I noticed the original gasket was thicker than the OEM paper replacement and did not put any sealant on the gasket the last time I repaired it. Thanks again for the great instructional vid!
Thanks bro.
thank you
Thanks😇
loved the video very well explained !! I was wondering I have replaced the gasket easliey enough as per this video but I did not find top dead centre prior to removing it the bike hasn't moved since pulling it apart and I'm hoping that I can just simply put it back together ...any thoughts ?
Sorry, this question is beyond my pay grade. I'm GUESSING that if you put it back together it will be fine. Perhaps, you can tell us what you end up doing and how it worked out.
Great video!
I have a 2017 sv 650. The bike sounds great when cold. One it’s ridden for a while, especially in hot days, it starts to make a weird noise, like a rattle or clack... under light load at about 4000rpm. Sounds like its coming from the right rear side. Could a faulty chain tensioner cause that? And only when hot? All the best!!!
Do you need to check on the timing after pulling out and replacing the tensioner?
Information I'm getting is that it's important to be at TDC and TDC in compression stroke. What's your thoughts?
use a 1/4 drive 6" extension, universal, and a 5mm allen tip only need to disconnect oil lines
lol, good to know about how that tensioner screw works.
Hi great video thank you. I'm going to try and the replace the gasket if I as unable to get the suzuki original is there something you could recommend, thanx info advance
Garth Ensley you should have no problem finding OEM. BIkebandit.com if you can’t find it locally.
Thanks for posting this tutorial. I've noticed a minor?leak around the cct housing spreading around cooling fins.Did yours do this as well? Thanks again.
Yes, but it was a fairly consistent flow of oil. Definitely needed attention.
Is it a one way fit or can you mount it up side down..?The wrong way.
Thank's for posting👍
Thanks for the video. I just want to confirm that if I remove the cam chain tensioner it will not cause the piston to fall or cause any huge issues. I have oil leaking from the cam chain tensioner and would like to just replace it with a new one. My thought is to take out the old one and put in a new one.. Will that be OK to do?
Removing the CCT shouldn't have any effect on the piston. As noted, I set the cam at TDC, but others have not - to no ill effect. Not sure why you want to replace the CCT with a new one. I can't imagine there would be any problem doing so, but why? Do you have some reason to believe there is something wrong with the old one? Usually when they leak it is a simple matter of replacing the gasket.
Thanks for the response Rick, and thanks for the video. I have found with my 83 virago it's just easier to replace parts than try to fix them. However that being said, I was able to pop the cap off the CCT add some new silicon and the leak stopped.
Rick, how did you get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke without taking the valve cover off?
Is there any trick to taking the oil lines off? When the motor is cool, the lines should be clear, and there shouldn't be any mess right?
How did you get the plunger screw to stay in while you were bolting the tensioner to the motor?
You *just* used permatex right? No actual gasket?
There are lots of videos on how to find TDC, but I'm not at all sure that it is necessary to do if you are careful not to move anything when it's apart. There was no leakage when removing the oil lines. Keeping the screw withdrawn is what made this job awkward. Just use your third hand (kidding). But if you read the other replies, some people seem to think that if you withdraw the screw all the way that it will keep itself withdrawn. If you find that is the case, let us know. It would make the job WAY easier. I used a gasket, no Permatex.
Remove cap from timing hole. Rotate the crankshaft (most engines should be turned counter clockwise) until the T on the rotor is aligned with the index mark in the timing hole.
Lol. Funny video. "If it leaks....Well I dunno if I'll tell you or not"
if you screw it all the way back it stays in place (back ) then you install it then release the screw and your are set .
I am not familiar with the DR650, But Most tensioners Do Not have that
"retention catch" in the retracted position. Thanks
If you screw it back far enough until the spring jams the mechanism you put excessive stress onto the ends of the spring and that's exactly where I found a few of the springs broken.
Hi there;
Why you have to replace the cam tensioner? Im having a weird problem in my DR, it work fine when it´s cold, but when it gets warm you start to ear a noise like a chain scraping in something...
The chain is new, the tensioner is old, do you think i have to change it?
Tks for all
Best regards;
Ivo
You could have tried this. Remove the tensioner and Ensure it extends automatically and the plunger can not be pushed back into the retracted position. IF it works fine , try inserting the tensioner (with out bolts) with it fully extended. IF the tensioner can be pushed up against the gasket surface, that indicates the cam chain/slider has stretched/worn beyond it service limit... Take Care
How far do you tighten the screw for the tensioner? Do you wind until it no longer pushes in?
That's what i want too know..🤔
can someone tell how to check if it's working properly or not? cuz I can see it's working but dunno if it's still good enough...
How did you repair it? You just re-installed it?
Mine was leaking around the gasket, so, yes, in that case remove it, clean it and reinstall with a new gasket. No further repair necessary.
Its not symmetrical which way is up. theres a slot that either points up or down...
If the screw has i nut it's a bolt ;)
Yes. I broke one.
suzuki
Oh no! Do NOT use Permatex on the banjo bolt fittings!! The top and bottom washers are special sealing washers, designed to slightly crush under a mild-moderate torque. If these washers are leaking, then go buy new ones. Never, ever use any sealing compound on oil line banjo fittings! With correct top and bottom washers and correct tightening of the banjo bolt, these fittings will not leak or come loose. Jeez.
wtf you want to show us with this video... ??
Not as clear as you suggest. Screwing the tail bolt. CW? CCW? And which when?