This is the best advice that I ever heard. I just recently got my pedal board from Chemistry Design Werks and this is my first one. I am going to take this guy's advice on the power and instrument cable in order to isolate the noise. Hopefully, it will work. Peace, Flood!
well this same guy( a few years later) says it really does no matter about power and instrument cables need to be isolated from each other ua-cam.com/video/QEex3z-hcXg/v-deo.html
Regardless of the below comments on this guy's company, it's refreshing to see a pedalboard tips video that doesn't spend the majority of its time telling you how to order your pedals!
I know im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a method to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the account password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Will Duncan I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
AN OPEN LETTER FROM MICHAEL LANDAU. This letter is in response to the recent events surrounding Mason Marangella and Vertex Effects. I first became aware of the drama concerning the Vertex Wah Wahs through Clif Jones on August 16th. I was late hearing the news because I had been on tour and I’m not a regular on the gear forums. The news was not good, this was exactly the type of drama that has kept me far away from guitar pedal endorsements for most of my life up until recently. Since I’ve never actually owned a production model Vertex Axis Wah, I anonymously purchased one 12 days ago so I could have it compared to the BBE Ben Wah by a reliable source whom I’ve known for many years, I wanted to have a first hand account of the results. The results show that the Vertex Axis Wah I recently purchased was identical to the BBE Ben Wah. Obviously I can’t be involved with a company or associated with a person who runs his company like this, so officially as of 9-6-2014, I no longer formally endorse any Vertex products. I would like to state the following facts for clarity: - I am not an electrical engineer, the only time I open up a pedal is to change the battery. - I have never used, nor have I ever endorsed any of the production model Vertex Wah Wahs. - The Wah Wah that has been on my pedalboard since January 2013 is an old Dunlop Cry Baby that was modified by Mason, I don’t know the specifics of the mods, it sounds good to me, it does have a Vertex sticker on it from when Mason worked on it a couple of years ago. - I do not use, nor have I ever endorsed the Vertex cables. - I use the Vertex Landau Boost because I love the EXP volume control function. - I use the Vertex Volume pedal only as an EXP pedal for the Landau Boost. As of 9-3-2014 , I have instructed Mason to give all of the dealers and distributers a 30 day notice stating that the Vertex Landau Boost and the Vertex Landau Chorus will be discontinued. Out of respect to the entire guitar community: If anyone wants to return their Vertex Landau Boost or Vertex Landau Chorus and is having a problem doing so through Vertex or the dealer they purchased it from, please contact Clif @ L.A. Vintage Gear and I will personally provide a full refund. Michael Landau
@laurens b - Very true...any Fuzz Face, Tone Bender, Treble Booster...really any Silicon or Germanium transistor-based effects won't like the low-impedance of an input buffer, ideally, you'd want to use an input buffer following any of these devices and again on the output of your system to best isolate the pedalboard for the guitar and amp.
@Onipa'a Gaudia - A buffered volume pedal will typically do less harm than a passive volume pedal unless you have a high quality buffer coming before a low-impedance passive volume pedal (ideally lower than 25K, or even 10K if you can find a pot that low). Sometimes you can use the EXP input on a Volume pedal to get a lower impedance pot and use an INSERT cable with one TRS end and two TS ends to gain access it and allow the 10K pot to control your volume.
..wow..holy brain fart...I just rearranged my pedalboard this morning...and nothing that i did is nowhere near as precise as this...I just basically arranged them the way I wanted, and put them down with velcro...I figure they'll hold..and power supply is relatively sturdy...sounds great and happy with the result....great,in-depth vid !!
Mason's pedalboards are works of art! I try to get mine to look that good but they fall short. Thanks for the tips. I'll keep trying. Mason and I disagree on a couple of points. I have been using George L solder-less cables for over 10 years with only two failures. I also use a Godlyke Powerall for my power supply. It is noiseless, and keeps that valuable pedalboard real estate available for something else. I play 60-70 gigs a year in a salt air environment here on the Gulf Coast. The Powerall has never failed me and it is good anywhere in the world. It also comes with a lifetime warranty - and no, I don't sell them!
Might this perhaps be better called a "Boost Machine"? This young man probably knows all the important stuff, right?!? 🙂I LIKE this idea of using two "Boost Machines"! And I'd bet dollars to donuts, his are really good. Without a doubt, the best info I have ever seen regards building a professional pedal board ... this knocks it out of the park, in my humble opinion. And his pedals appear to be just as stellar.
You can absolutely run your DC power lines next to your audio lines no problem. There won't be any induced noise. The problem comes from running AC power lines next to audio lines. Those are the ones you want to keep at right angles to audio cables. Also, it's "adhere"...not "adhese".
+ClamsAnonymous : I had to chew on "adhese" for about a minute before I saw this comment. Seems as though that is the least of this d-bags concerns at this point after reading other comments. :P
+ClamsAnonymous Exactly. The longer I listened to this guy talk, the more clear it became how little he actually knows about this. Pure DC does not produce noise. If he is getting noise from his DC it is not a clean supply, or his supply is working too hard. And I love how he has a loop switcher and doesn't even touch on the benefits and qualities of using that to reduce the total cable length on the board. I'm not familiar with this specific brand and it's switching method, but it still has an affect.
Also rockboard patch cables are really phenomenal as well the small 10cm are 3.90 each. And the ends are nice and flat and the cables are nice and plyable making for pedal board mounting ease
This is a fantastic video. Absolutely fantastic advice. Where can I get the buffer that you have? I have been looking long and hard for a decent buffer.
Onipa'a Gaudia - it can be helpful if the quality of the buffer in the VP is good, however having a great quality dedicated buffer on the input and output I think would be more helpful. What VP are you thinking of?
As of now: Photographic proof shows the Vertex Axis Wah to be a rebadged BBE Ben Wah, with no changes other than cosmetic/goop, and to remove/falsify country of origin. Photographic proof shows the Vertex volume pedals to be rebadged Boss volume pedals, with tuner out removed, one jumper added, cosmetic changes and goop, and with country of origin removed/falsified. Photographic proof shows the Vertex cable, claimed to twisted pair and with custom low-capacitance connectors, is actually Belden non-twisted pair cable, using stock high-capacitance connectors, and with Vertex logos added on shrinkwrap. Being as the above claims about place of origin, actual components used, and work done were factual misrepresentations in pursuit of sales, they actually rise to the level of fraud. University credential verification services show that Mason does not have an electrical engineering degree from the university which defenders claim he does, and the university in question does not offer an electrical engineering degree at all.
Here's a response to this comment: Who the hell cares? This is too common a tale (even among great innovators) throughout history. Whether you're talking about Marshall who started his business blatantly cloning the internal designs of existing Fender amps or Ibanez cloning Les Paul guitars in the 70's to Led Zeppelin putting their name on not only published music but public domain material! They all did this without apology or fear of consequence because I believe they wanted to take as much of the art and inspiration from these sources and apply it to their own invention and aesthetic. The method in which these things are conveyed and presented will impact the perception and elicited response. I think every guitar pedal builder out there is cloning to some degree and looking to create their best version of the mousetrap so to speak. The Ben Wah is by far not the Kleenex of the tissue paper business either. The Cry Baby is. So why not copy the most successful model of this category if the sole purpose is to achieve monetary gain? I think an important lesson was learned and addressed by the builder due to the previously mentioned 'method' which led to the type of response received. Bottom line is the guy actually does good work and still has a job based on the level and quality of the work put out there. A big business boo boo was made but I'm glad he didn't stop and bury his head in the sand. I've learned a number of legitimately useful and thoughtful tips and techniques from Mason and his videos. His current roster of Vertex pedals are well made and well regarded. Thumbs up to now (and the future), don't fall back and keep doing what you're doing man.
Only remark on the buffer: if you like ANYTHING with a germanium transistor in it, you'll probably want the buffer after that pedal. Germanium doesn't like a buffered signal
Funny I watched a similar more recent video by him on the same subject. In that video he clearly states that DC connections and audio cables can be run together but do not run AC connections adjacent to audio if at all possible
Hi, Mason. I have a small pedalboard with just a handful of various pedals. In regards to the buffer, what are your thoughts on running one in a manner where I'm running a long cable from the pedal board back to a rack-mounted Digitech GSP-21 (I know, ancient tech) that sits adjacent to my amp?
Thanks a lot for the tips. Few of them are obvious, others were discoveries for me. Besides a delay I've got all the pedals that I need, so I am mainly looking to isolated power banks and pedal board interfaces that could be midi-controlled. Any hints on that one? Greetings
+Nick Jacobs - could be a bad contact somewhere. This could be as simple as cleaning the contact on all of your pedals with something like DeOxit D5 Contact Cleaner, but could also be an intermittent cable. I would recommend starting at the end of your signal path and working backwards removing one pedal at a time from your chain to see if you can get the problem to go away. If you want me to walk you through some other solutions email me at mason@vertexeffects.com and I'll point you in the right direction.
Thanks, clear and useful video and I love your stuff! One question: do you suggest avoiding to put certain effects close to an isolated power supply, or that doesnt have any impact in noise etc? For example: should I place an analog phaser or chorus or a digital delay close to a vodoo lab-style power supply? Thanks!
If it's a switching supply - Truetone or Strymon, it's not such an issue. If it has a transformer, you would want to avoid getting certain pedals near the supply. You can assess the loop area of the transformer beforehand by plugging in your pedals individually and moving them around the power supply to see where they are least noisy in proximity to it.
I have my tuner on my tuner out of my vol. pedal, so there's no output cable needed on the output Jack of the tuner. I noticed you don't have an output cable connected to your tuner either, how can you accomplish that without it coming out of a vol. pedal?
Input buffers are probably best placed after any germanium fuzz/dirt pedal, unless you actually like the screechy distortion it creates. To each his/her own. And using an isolated power supply is probably the single most important thing in this video.
dave fuller - I think it's a fine solution if you don't have the dough to purchase a separate buffer, but ideally you'd want a two dedicated buffers (one for the input and another for the output of your pedalboard). This would provide the best impedance isolation between the guitar, pedalboard, and amplifier.
How would I add another tier onto a pedal train. Not another row. I want to place pedals that I don't want to change underneath and place others on top.
I am using or switching between Two amps, therefore at the moment my last unit in my signal chain with a A & B Out (Lehle Little Dual). In regards to a buffer at the end of your signal, can it go before my A/B Box or do you know of a buffer that would work appropriately with Little Dual?
I just found out about the scandal after reading some of the other comments below. That's a sad story. But still, every one of these tips is good, and I especially agree about soldering the patch leads. Oh, BTW, 2:54 - you missed a screw on that pancake connector!
@Bryan Almaguer It depends on the quality of the pedals that are in the loop and the quality of the buffered effects loop. I've seen buffered effects loops that are very effective of driving more than 10ft of cable without introducing distortion into the signal or degrading the signal in some way, additionally some of the pedals that are designated for line level don't have great quality line-driving capabilities either. I will (depending on the amp the system is used with), buffer on the return side if the quality of the buffer coming from the SEND on the FX LOOp isn't sufficient. Again, this is an oversimplification, and really needs to be addressed on a case by case basis depending on your amp and pedals in the loop.
Tiger Audio, Inc. Well it is true if the FX Send is "buffered" from the amplifier (some are better than others just like pedals). there still is a need for a buffer on the pedal output back to the amp FX return for the same reason that you would want a buffer from the pedal board to the amplifier input. Some pedals will not drive the long cables well, especially those with high capacitance well. Also some FX loop returns are lower impedance than amplifier inputs which makes it even harder for pedals to drive.
Tiger Audio, Inc. Unfortunately there are a lot of poor amplifer FX circuits out there with too low input impedances IMHO on the FX return (you wonder what the designer was thinking). This will load a lot of pedals that cannot drive that impedance as well as having to drive the line capacitance. So again, the best answer IMHO is to have a well designed buffer that has low output impedance on the pedal board that can handle not only the lower impedance AMP FX inputs but drive large amount of capacitance without stability problems or other artifacts. The FX return from the pedal board should be as neutral as possible. This is a weak point that a lot of persons miss IMHO. And yes I have seen some real stability problems (oscillations) with certain amp FX setups ( worse when they are intermittent and only do it at certain times, temperatures, conditions (like in the middle of a performance !!!), let alone how other Amp FX/pedal board combinations color the sound. Often the problem only shows up when certain pedals in the middle of the pedal board chain are on and all pedals downstream are true bypassed so this one pedal has to drive all the pedal capacitance after it (all cables connecting the true bypass pedals) and the long lines and the input capacitance of the AMP FX and well, it has no chance - definitely not designed to do that. A well designed output buffer will prevent all that. Also some people claim their pedal has an output buffer (but does that mean a good one?) is not in the loop when true bypassed !
Hi so I noticed my amp sometimes muddies up and a lot of low frecuencies come out of it, don't know if it's the amp or bad programming of my multi effects unit. I'm about to change to pedals. If it turned out to be my amp should I get an eq pedal or a mid boost pedal? So I plan on running gain in front of amp, and the time based effects in the effects loop of the amp. Where in the chain should I put that pedal? In the beginning, the middle or the end?
If the input impedance of your pedal is high, then the cable/connector resistance is irrelevant. If the input impedance of your pedal is not high, then get rid of the pedal and replace with one that was competently designed. Electronics 101.
First pedal in chain has buffer Next is always on No need for standalone buffers Plus if u have eq or other pedals further in chain that boost signal u loose no high end I have soldered pancakes with mogami...and I've used planet wave solderless...no difference Dual lock way to locky. Velcro I have to use prybar to get pedal off Tip 4 right on Tip 5 right on Tip 6 ok...I can dig it I have used these If your board is in constant flux this is a pain But definitely separate power from audio...or its noisy Tip 7 what was it
I’ve tried to build a pedal board on 3 occasions and never successfully got it right. I’ve changed every cable, guitar to board and board to amp with quality mogami cables, mogami patch, I’ve changed the power supply to a 4+4 voodoo labs brick and separated the power for the Joyo pxl8 loop switcher. I’m running a Mesa rectoverb and tend to push it quite hard so understand I will get gain humm but when I plug straight into the amp, I get very little noise. Frustrated any ideas ?
Actually. You have a lot more resistance in a soldered line than a properly made solderless. As the solder tin has a higher resistance than copper. There is a reason why just about every connection made in industrial settings are either screwed or press fitted. Old school audio equipment don't even use solder in the circuits. Allso, if one invest in a proper power supply. The power cables won't do much if the signal cables is layed next to it. The power is really well filtered dc and the signal is shielded. Though with a cheaper rippeled powerbrick, that might cause some slight hum.
there are solderless systems without the drawbacks you mentioned, that are actually more reliable than your average soldered cables. check out the evidence audio sis system. also, cioks is pronounced "chocks".
Larry, certainly solderless cables have improved a lot even since this video was recorded several years ago, however I've yet to see anyone that does rigs professionally switch to using solderless cables - Robert Bradshaw (CAE), David Freidman (Racksystems), Xact Tone Solutions (XTS), David Phillips (LA Sound Design). I would surmise that above all else, reliability and longevity on the road wins out every time for a quality soldered connection, irrespective of how many improvements have been made to mitigate resistance in the connections or capacitance in the plugs. I think that Evidence does a great job, and I think from a consumer standpoint it's among the best for DIYers. Thanks for filling me in on the pronunciation on Cioks! ~Mason
I truly hope you're wrong about the $240 I just spent on my tightrope non solder cables. I have two huge boards. Pleeeease tell me you're wrong. This is expensive as it is. Pleeeease answer me lol! I've been looking to UA-cam and forums to be my guide. Thanx!
They'll be fine as long as you make them correctly, If you weren't using a board then you may question how durable the connection would be as opposed to a soldered cable due to movement etc, but since I'm guessing you are using a board then it will be fine as the cable will not be under much stress (if any). Check out a bit of the background of vertex effects, you'll likely take this guy less seriously after :)
You know how to solve this problem? The answer: another buffer! Seriously, adding a specific input buffer to a fuzz will make it work perfectly under any circumstances. Impedance matching can be tricky but isn't black magic either.
just checking your terminology here and to make sure the message is clear to the punters out there... 2 points you made.1) Solder less cables have a higher resistance than solder cables... no, this is not the case as resistance is dependant on cable cross section and not simply a solder joint or not. Cheap small cross section soldered cables are far higher resistance than the decent solder less solutions. lots of people also have problems with home made solder cables shorting out, because the solder joint is messy.2) Linear power supplies? Pedals run off 9V DC and the power supply takes AC (be it 110V, 230V, 240V, etc.) this means they run a diode bridge and the are switch mode or NON linear. A linear supply takes unstable DC and converts to stable DC. What you may be referring to is a linear voltage regulator INSIDE the power supply that is a secondary stage to clean up the DC output feed to the pedals.good video though... very informative to those starting out.
I found holeyboard and zip ties to be a royal pain. Mine is for sale on Colorado Springs Craigslist (2017.08.16) I am designing a pedalboard with a new type of fastener. Will make them available in 6 months.
Dude, don't believe me, try it out for yourself, use Klotz patch cables, they're soldered and ready made, not make for measure, you can twist 'em, tie 'em, trample on them and they still give you great tone...made in Germany.
ricardod123 If you dont mind losing a bit of your high end than of course its not a necessity. its a necessity for those who wants to keep their original tone as much as possible throughout long cables in and out and through an entire board. not a big deal in a small club with small cables but think of big stages like festivals where several meters of cables are necessary. Me personally a slight high end roll off is not a big issue but if i want a high roll off i prefer to control it via my tone pot or my amp rather than my cable rolling it off permanently.
I use evidence sis and I have never had a problem and there are a lot of pros that use evidence. I would challenge you to listen to my system and tell me there is a difference in the sound straight through my amp or not. You can hang off my cables and it will not effect them. Bottom line is you get what you pay for and I have been doing this stuff for 50 years so I think I might have some kind of clue as to what I am talking about and I have nothing to do with evidence but the system they have is top of the line with or without solder. There are many other companies out there that have solderless systems that really suck, I will admit that but a good connection is a good connection. It's not rocket science. IMHO there's nothing special about mogami 2319 cable neither. Best tronics I think is the name of the company, makes a better cable than mogami and that's just my opinion, everyone has one. They have a solderless system but it's not in the same league as evidence, they're cable is good though. That's my 2 cents.
This is the best advice that I ever heard. I just recently got my pedal board from Chemistry Design Werks and this is my first one. I am going to take this guy's advice on the power and instrument cable in order to isolate the noise. Hopefully, it will work. Peace, Flood!
Nice! Hope it works out!
well this same guy( a few years later) says it really does no matter about power and instrument cables need to be isolated from each other ua-cam.com/video/QEex3z-hcXg/v-deo.html
Regardless of the below comments on this guy's company, it's refreshing to see a pedalboard tips video that doesn't spend the majority of its time telling you how to order your pedals!
I know im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the account password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Judah Keith Instablaster ;)
@Will Duncan I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Will Duncan It worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
@Judah Keith you are welcome xD
Ι have benn following your work for a while and the least I have to say is that it speaks for itself. You are a true professional!
Finally, a USEFULL pedalboard tips video. Great advice, thank you.
My pleasure!
AN OPEN LETTER FROM MICHAEL LANDAU.
This letter is in response to the recent events surrounding Mason Marangella and Vertex Effects. I first became aware of the drama concerning the Vertex Wah Wahs through Clif Jones on August 16th. I was late hearing the news because I had been on tour and I’m not a regular on the gear forums. The news was not good, this was exactly the type of drama that has kept me far away from guitar pedal endorsements for most of my life up until recently.
Since I’ve never actually owned a production model Vertex Axis Wah, I anonymously purchased one 12 days ago so I could have it compared to the BBE Ben Wah by a reliable source whom I’ve known for many years,
I wanted to have a first hand account of the results. The results show that the Vertex Axis Wah I recently purchased was identical to the BBE Ben Wah.
Obviously I can’t be involved with a company or associated with a person who runs his company like this,
so officially as of 9-6-2014, I no longer formally endorse any Vertex products.
I would like to state the following facts for clarity:
- I am not an electrical engineer, the only time I open up a pedal is to change the battery.
- I have never used, nor have I ever endorsed any of the production model Vertex Wah Wahs.
- The Wah Wah that has been on my pedalboard since January 2013 is an old Dunlop Cry Baby that was modified by Mason, I don’t know the specifics of the mods, it sounds good to me, it does have a Vertex sticker on it from when Mason worked on it a couple of years ago.
- I do not use, nor have I ever endorsed the Vertex cables.
- I use the Vertex Landau Boost because I love the EXP volume control function.
- I use the Vertex Volume pedal only as an EXP pedal for the Landau Boost.
As of 9-3-2014 , I have instructed Mason to give all of the dealers and distributers a 30 day notice
stating that the Vertex Landau Boost and the Vertex Landau Chorus will be discontinued.
Out of respect to the entire guitar community:
If anyone wants to return their Vertex Landau Boost or Vertex Landau Chorus and is having a problem doing so through Vertex or the dealer they purchased it from, please contact Clif @ L.A. Vintage Gear and I will personally provide a full refund.
Michael Landau
@laurens b - Very true...any Fuzz Face, Tone Bender, Treble Booster...really any Silicon or Germanium transistor-based effects won't like the low-impedance of an input buffer, ideally, you'd want to use an input buffer following any of these devices and again on the output of your system to best isolate the pedalboard for the guitar and amp.
Very good info.... Refreshing to see someone recommend soldered cables over solderless... I just don't like solderless cables....
@Onipa'a Gaudia - A buffered volume pedal will typically do less harm than a passive volume pedal unless you have a high quality buffer coming before a low-impedance passive volume pedal (ideally lower than 25K, or even 10K if you can find a pot that low). Sometimes you can use the EXP input on a Volume pedal to get a lower impedance pot and use an INSERT cable with one TRS end and two TS ends to gain access it and allow the 10K pot to control your volume.
Great Tips! Especially the last one! Thanks Mason!
..wow..holy brain fart...I just rearranged my pedalboard this morning...and nothing that i did is nowhere near as precise as this...I just basically arranged them the way I wanted, and put them down with velcro...I figure they'll hold..and power supply is relatively sturdy...sounds great and happy with the result....great,in-depth vid !!
This is all great advice. I'm putting together several boards at the moment, and most of this advice is very timely. Nice work! =)
Mason's pedalboards are works of art! I try to get mine to look that good but they fall short. Thanks for the tips. I'll keep trying. Mason and I disagree on a couple of points. I have been using George L solder-less cables for over 10 years with only two failures. I also use a Godlyke Powerall for my power supply. It is noiseless, and keeps that valuable pedalboard real estate available for something else. I play 60-70 gigs a year in a salt air environment here on the Gulf Coast. The Powerall has never failed me and it is good anywhere in the world. It also comes with a lifetime warranty - and no, I don't sell them!
Solderd my own patch cables for years, this year i went and tried out lava cables and low key I'm happier with the results
Might this perhaps be better called a "Boost Machine"? This young man probably knows all the important stuff, right?!? 🙂I LIKE this idea of using two "Boost Machines"! And I'd bet dollars to donuts, his are really good.
Without a doubt, the best info I have ever seen regards building a professional pedal board ... this knocks it out of the park, in my humble opinion. And his pedals appear to be just as stellar.
Thanks for your patience and information....Smiley'
Thumbs up for good cable management.
Thank you for the depth and detail... Very helpful
Hey bud great video, especially with the power/audio lines I. Parallel. Great tip and totally undervalued
Excellent advice, Thanks!
***** - Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Nailed those points perfectly!
Is it me or does this guy look identical to (FPS Russia)? Great video BTW.
Who's that?
He does xD
You can absolutely run your DC power lines next to your audio lines no problem. There won't be any induced noise.
The problem comes from running AC power lines next to audio lines. Those are the ones you want to keep at right angles to audio cables.
Also, it's "adhere"...not "adhese".
+ClamsAnonymous : I had to chew on "adhese" for about a minute before I saw this comment. Seems as though that is the least of this d-bags concerns at this point after reading other comments. :P
+ClamsAnonymous
Exactly. The longer I listened to this guy talk, the more clear it became how little he actually knows about this. Pure DC does not produce noise. If he is getting noise from his DC it is not a clean supply, or his supply is working too hard.
And I love how he has a loop switcher and doesn't even touch on the benefits and qualities of using that to reduce the total cable length on the board. I'm not familiar with this specific brand and it's switching method, but it still has an affect.
I loved “adhese” 😂
Also rockboard patch cables are really phenomenal as well the small 10cm are 3.90 each. And the ends are nice and flat and the cables are nice and plyable making for pedal board mounting ease
Very very helpful and informative video!!
This is a really helpful video. Thanks.
This is a fantastic video. Absolutely fantastic advice. Where can I get the buffer that you have? I have been looking long and hard for a decent buffer.
Onipa'a Gaudia - it can be helpful if the quality of the buffer in the VP is good, however having a great quality dedicated buffer on the input and output I think would be more helpful. What VP are you thinking of?
im in this process now so thanks for the great suggestions Mason. Question please. Where do you get the isolated buffers from?
Fantastic video
As of now:
Photographic proof shows the Vertex Axis Wah to be a rebadged BBE Ben Wah, with no changes other than cosmetic/goop, and to remove/falsify country of origin.
Photographic proof shows the Vertex volume pedals to be rebadged Boss volume pedals, with tuner out removed, one jumper added, cosmetic changes and goop, and with country of origin removed/falsified.
Photographic proof shows the Vertex cable, claimed to twisted pair and with custom low-capacitance connectors, is actually Belden non-twisted pair cable, using stock high-capacitance connectors, and with Vertex logos added on shrinkwrap.
Being as the above claims about place of origin, actual components used, and work done were factual misrepresentations in pursuit of sales, they actually rise to the level of fraud.
University credential verification services show that Mason does not have an electrical engineering degree from the university which defenders claim he does, and the university in question does not offer an electrical engineering degree at all.
reverb.com/news/vertex-effects-after-the-axis-wah-scandal-a-conversation-with-mason-marangella
Google is your friend.
Here's a response to this comment: Who the hell cares? This is too common a tale (even among great innovators) throughout history. Whether you're talking about Marshall who started his business blatantly cloning the internal designs of existing Fender amps or Ibanez cloning Les Paul guitars in the 70's to Led Zeppelin putting their name on not only published music but public domain material! They all did this without apology or fear of consequence because I believe they wanted to take as much of the art and inspiration from these sources and apply it to their own invention and aesthetic. The method in which these things are conveyed and presented will impact the perception and elicited response. I think every guitar pedal builder out there is cloning to some degree and looking to create their best version of the mousetrap so to speak. The Ben Wah is by far not the Kleenex of the tissue paper business either. The Cry Baby is. So why not copy the most successful model of this category if the sole purpose is to achieve monetary gain? I think an important lesson was learned and addressed by the builder due to the previously mentioned 'method' which led to the type of response received. Bottom line is the guy actually does good work and still has a job based on the level and quality of the work put out there. A big business boo boo was made but I'm glad he didn't stop and bury his head in the sand. I've learned a number of legitimately useful and thoughtful tips and techniques from Mason and his videos. His current roster of Vertex pedals are well made and well regarded. Thumbs up to now (and the future), don't fall back and keep doing what you're doing man.
Did you mention something about buffers?
+Adrian Lespron there should be something in there. What buffers are you using in your system?
+Adrian Lespron ahahaha
LOL give this man a cookie
Thanks very helpful video!!!
Austin Guitar House! Love that place.
Only remark on the buffer: if you like ANYTHING with a germanium transistor in it, you'll probably want the buffer after that pedal. Germanium doesn't like a buffered signal
Bill Wilkie : )
dual lock is absolutely amazing
Mason, l'm going to cover my pedal train with a aluminium plate. Will flat black spray paint be good to use to paint the aluminum ? Thx
Funny I watched a similar more recent video by him on the same subject. In that video he clearly states that DC connections and audio cables can be run together but do not run AC connections adjacent to audio if at all possible
Thanks for the tip on Mogami patch cables ;)
Hi, Mason. I have a small pedalboard with just a handful of various pedals. In regards to the buffer, what are your thoughts on running one in a manner where I'm running a long cable from the pedal board back to a rack-mounted Digitech GSP-21 (I know, ancient tech) that sits adjacent to my amp?
good job Mason.
Thanks a lot for the tips. Few of them are obvious, others were discoveries for me. Besides a delay I've got all the pedals that I need, so I am mainly looking to isolated power banks and pedal board interfaces that could be midi-controlled. Any hints on that one?
Greetings
The first thing I recommend is to get a tshirt that fits.
Theophilus Parabombastus Maybe he picked out the T-shirt while his eyes were closed, like in the video.
What does it mean if I get large dips in how loud my sound gets. At times, the volume just drops to almost a whisper! Power issue?
+Nick Jacobs - could be a bad contact somewhere. This could be as simple as cleaning the contact on all of your pedals with something like DeOxit D5 Contact Cleaner, but could also be an intermittent cable. I would recommend starting at the end of your signal path and working backwards removing one pedal at a time from your chain to see if you can get the problem to go away. If you want me to walk you through some other solutions email me at mason@vertexeffects.com and I'll point you in the right direction.
Alrighty! Thanks!
+Nick Jacobs Does it happen when you have no pedals plugged in?
No
Patrik Olsson Only when pedals are plugged in.
Very solid advice. What materials do you recommend for the platform?
Right on all counts.
Great tips, thanks.
Thanks, clear and useful video and I love your stuff! One question: do you suggest avoiding to put certain effects close to an isolated power supply, or that doesnt have any impact in noise etc? For example: should I place an analog phaser or chorus or a digital delay close to a vodoo lab-style power supply? Thanks!
If it's a switching supply - Truetone or Strymon, it's not such an issue. If it has a transformer, you would want to avoid getting certain pedals near the supply. You can assess the loop area of the transformer beforehand by plugging in your pedals individually and moving them around the power supply to see where they are least noisy in proximity to it.
Here's a tip for getting a Vertex wah for much less: just get the BBE Ben Wah. It's identical!
I have my tuner on my tuner out of my vol. pedal, so there's no output cable needed on the output Jack of the tuner. I noticed you don't have an output cable connected to your tuner either, how can you accomplish that without it coming out of a vol. pedal?
Thanks for the awesome vid!
Input buffers are probably best placed after any germanium fuzz/dirt pedal, unless you actually like the screechy distortion it creates. To each his/her own.
And using an isolated power supply is probably the single most important thing in this video.
Very nice!
@Paul Wolf - You could do that without a problem!
Great tips!
I have the Crocodile Tail Loop, and I love it as a switcher. What is your opinion on the built in buffer?
dave fuller - I think it's a fine solution if you don't have the dough to purchase a separate buffer, but ideally you'd want a two dedicated buffers (one for the input and another for the output of your pedalboard). This would provide the best impedance isolation between the guitar, pedalboard, and amplifier.
How would I add another tier onto a pedal train. Not another row. I want to place pedals that I don't want to change underneath and place others on top.
Very interesting. But why toroid transformer?
Great video thanks. Buffer in front of a fuzz face? Did you make any special accommodation?
Buffer comes in after the Sun Lion on this board to avoid any impedance issues with the Fuzz and Treble Booster
I am using or switching between Two amps, therefore at the moment my last unit in my signal chain with a A & B Out (Lehle Little Dual). In regards to a buffer at the end of your signal, can it go before my A/B Box or do you know of a buffer that would work appropriately with Little Dual?
Thx for clarifying.
I just found out about the scandal after reading some of the other comments below. That's a sad story. But still, every one of these tips is good, and I especially agree about soldering the patch leads. Oh, BTW, 2:54 - you missed a screw on that pancake connector!
There's a set screw on one side, and a crimp on the other - only one set screw is used for these connectors.
What about pedals running in my amps loop, if it has a 'buffered effects loop'? Wouldn't it be redundant?
@Bryan Almaguer It depends on the quality of the pedals that are in the loop and the quality of the buffered effects loop. I've seen buffered effects loops that are very effective of driving more than 10ft of cable without introducing distortion into the signal or degrading the signal in some way, additionally some of the pedals that are designated for line level don't have great quality line-driving capabilities either. I will (depending on the amp the system is used with), buffer on the return side if the quality of the buffer coming from the SEND on the FX LOOp isn't sufficient. Again, this is an oversimplification, and really needs to be addressed on a case by case basis depending on your amp and pedals in the loop.
Tiger Audio, Inc. Well it is true if the FX Send is "buffered" from the amplifier (some are better than others just like pedals). there still is a need for a buffer on the pedal output back to the amp FX return for the same reason that you would want a buffer from the pedal board to the amplifier input. Some pedals will not drive the long cables well, especially those with high capacitance well. Also some FX loop returns are lower impedance than amplifier inputs which makes it even harder for pedals to drive.
Tiger Audio, Inc. Unfortunately there are a lot of poor amplifer FX circuits out there with too low input impedances IMHO on the FX return (you wonder what the designer was thinking). This will load a lot of pedals that cannot drive that impedance as well as having to drive the line capacitance. So again, the best answer IMHO is to have a well designed buffer that has low output impedance on the pedal board that can handle not only the lower impedance AMP FX inputs but drive large amount of capacitance without stability problems or other artifacts. The FX return from the pedal board should be as neutral as possible. This is a weak point that a lot of persons miss IMHO. And yes I have seen some real stability problems (oscillations) with certain amp FX setups ( worse when they are intermittent and only do it at certain times, temperatures, conditions (like in the middle of a performance !!!), let alone how other Amp FX/pedal board combinations color the sound. Often the problem only shows up when certain pedals in the middle of the pedal board chain are on and all pedals downstream are true bypassed so this one pedal has to drive all the pedal capacitance after it (all cables connecting the true bypass pedals) and the long lines and the input capacitance of the AMP FX and well, it has no chance - definitely not designed to do that. A well designed output buffer will prevent all that. Also some people claim their pedal has an output buffer (but does that mean a good one?) is not in the loop when true bypassed !
Hi so I noticed my amp sometimes muddies up and a lot of low frecuencies come out of it, don't know if it's the amp or bad programming of my multi effects unit. I'm about to change to pedals.
If it turned out to be my amp should I get an eq pedal or a mid boost pedal?
So I plan on running gain in front of amp, and the time based effects in the effects loop of the amp. Where in the chain should I put that pedal? In the beginning, the middle or the end?
If the input impedance of your pedal is high, then the cable/connector resistance is irrelevant. If the input impedance of your pedal is not high, then get rid of the pedal and replace with one that was competently designed. Electronics 101.
Is there a link where I can purchase the right dual lock ?
If by chance all of your pedals are true bypass when off, do you still need a buffer?
you specially need a buffer in that scenario
Cheers
Erick Chicas What exactly is a buffer?
*Don’t put a buffer before a fuzz because most are designed to react to the load from your pickups* **analogueman the master of fuzz**
First pedal in chain has buffer
Next is always on
No need for standalone buffers
Plus if u have eq or other pedals further in chain that boost signal u loose no high end
I have soldered pancakes with mogami...and I've used planet wave solderless...no difference
Dual lock way to locky.
Velcro I have to use prybar to get pedal off
Tip 4 right on
Tip 5 right on
Tip 6 ok...I can dig it
I have used these
If your board is in constant flux this is a pain
But definitely separate power from audio...or its noisy
Tip 7 what was it
hi, nevertheless what is your feedback about the Evidence Audio SIS ?
I noticed that you had pedals that were sideways, are those the pedals that you hardly use?
These are being controlled by the One Control OC-10, so access to the switch isn't necessary as it's switched on/off remotely.
Thanx again! Can't argue with a man named "MR. LAW".
I’ve tried to build a pedal board on 3 occasions and never successfully got it right. I’ve changed every cable, guitar to board and board to amp with quality mogami cables, mogami patch, I’ve changed the power supply to a 4+4 voodoo labs brick and separated the power for the Joyo pxl8 loop switcher. I’m running a Mesa rectoverb and tend to push it quite hard so understand I will get gain humm but when I plug straight into the amp, I get very little noise. Frustrated any ideas ?
change the power supply to a switch mode power supply
Actually. You have a lot more resistance in a soldered line than a properly made solderless. As the solder tin has a higher resistance than copper. There is a reason why just about every connection made in industrial settings are either screwed or press fitted. Old school audio equipment don't even use solder in the circuits.
Allso, if one invest in a proper power supply. The power cables won't do much if the signal cables is layed next to it. The power is really well filtered dc and the signal is shielded. Though with a cheaper rippeled powerbrick, that might cause some slight hum.
At 5:56 Mason mentions G-Lab. Other polish company that produces very good power supplys is Yankee.
WE'VE GOT A 23-19!!
Thanks for the cable dressing tip.
: ) My pleasure
Anybody know where I can get a cheap Vertex Wah pedal?
Orange County is permanently closed. Do you have another source?
Amazon?
hi bro .. who cut your hair? 😊
there are solderless systems without the drawbacks you mentioned, that are actually more reliable than your average soldered cables. check out the evidence audio sis system. also, cioks is pronounced "chocks".
Larry, certainly solderless cables have improved a lot even since this video was recorded several years ago, however I've yet to see anyone that does rigs professionally switch to using solderless cables - Robert Bradshaw (CAE), David Freidman (Racksystems), Xact Tone Solutions (XTS), David Phillips (LA Sound Design). I would surmise that above all else, reliability and longevity on the road wins out every time for a quality soldered connection, irrespective of how many improvements have been made to mitigate resistance in the connections or capacitance in the plugs. I think that Evidence does a great job, and I think from a consumer standpoint it's among the best for DIYers. Thanks for filling me in on the pronunciation on Cioks! ~Mason
Can someone tell me where can I get those mini straight plugs, please?
Just google Switchcraft 380
I truly hope you're wrong about the $240 I just spent on my tightrope non solder cables. I have two huge boards. Pleeeease tell me you're wrong. This is expensive as it is. Pleeeease answer me lol! I've been looking to UA-cam and forums to be my guide. Thanx!
They'll be fine as long as you make them correctly, If you weren't using a board then you may question how durable the connection would be as opposed to a soldered cable due to movement etc, but since I'm guessing you are using a board then it will be fine as the cable will not be under much stress (if any). Check out a bit of the background of vertex effects, you'll likely take this guy less seriously after :)
Thanx, George! He never answered me. Plus I'm using TB loopers. Thanx again!
Happy to help mate :)
So much wrong information in this video.
Stay away from Vertex, check out Joe Bonamassas statement and a lot of other pro players.
Buffer, buff,buff,buff, b b b b b buffer. Tell that to my germanium fuzz lol. Most boss pedals have buffers that suffice. Or invest in a gigrig g2
You know how to solve this problem? The answer: another buffer!
Seriously, adding a specific input buffer to a fuzz will make it work perfectly under any circumstances. Impedance matching can be tricky but isn't black magic either.
Yes G2 - just got mine . . .
This isn't about DIY pedalboards, this about buying more shit.
The title of the video is misleading. This is an advertisement for a product.
Great stuff! A+++++++
just checking your terminology here and to make sure the message is clear to the punters out there... 2 points you made.1) Solder less cables have a higher resistance than solder cables... no, this is not the case as resistance is dependant on cable cross section and not simply a solder joint or not. Cheap small cross section soldered cables are far higher resistance than the decent solder less solutions. lots of people also have problems with home made solder cables shorting out, because the solder joint is messy.2) Linear power supplies? Pedals run off 9V DC and the power supply takes AC (be it 110V, 230V, 240V, etc.) this means they run a diode bridge and the are switch mode or NON linear. A linear supply takes unstable DC and converts to stable DC. What you may be referring to is a linear voltage regulator INSIDE the power supply that is a secondary stage to clean up the DC output feed to the pedals.good video though... very informative to those starting out.
I agree with you , deffective solder can create lots of problem .
if your not familiar with solder don't do it !!!
This dude would get a heart attack, if he gets to see my "pedalboard"
This is very techie
SOOOODER ... You mean Solder?
solderless cables have a lot of resistance? are you sure man? my multimeter doesnt indicate "a lot of resistance with my lava solderless cables"
tie wraps works better than velcro or dual lock. --> Holey boards
Do you worry about the zip ties damaging your pedals? Have you tried different densities of 3M Dual Lock?
I found holeyboard and zip ties to be a royal pain. Mine is for sale on Colorado Springs Craigslist (2017.08.16) I am designing a pedalboard with a new type of fastener. Will make them available in 6 months.
I like to dress my cables with pink silk bows.
Dude, don't believe me, try it out for yourself, use Klotz patch cables, they're soldered and ready made, not make for measure, you can twist 'em, tie 'em, trample on them and they still give you great tone...made in Germany.
A buffer is not a necessity, defo not 2. I came here to maybe learn a trick but I just found myself getting angry??
ricardod123 If you dont mind losing a bit of your high end than of course its not a necessity. its a necessity for those who wants to keep their original tone as much as possible throughout long cables in and out and through an entire board. not a big deal in a small club with small cables but think of big stages like festivals where several meters of cables are necessary.
Me personally a slight high end roll off is not a big issue but if i want a high roll off i prefer to control it via my tone pot or my amp rather than my cable rolling it off permanently.
in Russia the pedals Velcro you down
so basically folks buy his buffer
I use evidence sis and I have never had a problem and there are a lot of pros that use evidence. I would challenge you to listen to my system and tell me there is a difference in the sound straight through my amp or not. You can hang off my cables and it will not effect them. Bottom line is you get what you pay for and I have been doing this stuff for 50 years so I think I might have some kind of clue as to what I am talking about and I have nothing to do with evidence but the system they have is top of the line with or without solder. There are many other companies out there that have solderless systems that really suck, I will admit that but a good connection is a good connection. It's not rocket science. IMHO there's nothing special about mogami 2319 cable neither. Best tronics I think is the name of the company, makes a better cable than mogami and that's just my opinion, everyone has one. They have a solderless system but it's not in the same league as evidence, they're cable is good though. That's my 2 cents.
solderless lava cables. good enough for Steve Via and Roger Waters...