CNC Bass Guitar | Complex CNC CAM contours with Fusion 360
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- Опубліковано 16 чер 2019
- Making a custom bass on the CNC and how I created the tool paths in Fusion 360
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Great video. I'm starting on CNC machines and it was very helpful
Thanks, good luck.
Its just a 3/4" ball end straight two flute router bit from the local hardware store, nothing fancy or expensive.
Awesome job!
Thanks
Awesome! Would like to see some videos on maybe your design process and more on the milling! Keep up the good work!
I didn't design this one the file was sent in, check out the mandolin and violin series there is a lot of design and milling content.
@@TwoCherriesIns sounds good! Hope you're posting more videos on the bass build in the future if you can
@@chrisernoii4258 This was just a body I made for another maker. If your interested in a bass build series I will put it on the list for upcoming projects. Thanks,
@@TwoCherriesIns awesome, thank you! Would love to see it
Nice. I’m sitting here at F360 now trying to figure out how to do the contouring for the bass I’m building on my channel
Thanks!
I didn’t understand how you align X and Y the first time you put the stock on the spoil board: just eyeballing the centerline for the X? And when you flip it over, do you just lay the flat border of the “holder” onto something for one coordinate? And what for the other one? Thank you!
Indexing and setup datums is a pretty in-depth topic, not sure I can explain it here completely. For bodies I use the center line for they y axis, and the x is indexed from the material. For necks the second side alignment is more critical so I us a sacrificial fence that is cnc cut and therefore perfect aligned to the axis. I have several videos about these processes.
awesome video....again! I am not a luthier and I don't play an instrument. I only have a basic grasp of Fusion and just started guitar lessons but I am obsessing with making my own guitar so your videos have been very helpful. forgive the newbie question, could you have left the body in the original piece of wood, contoured it, created tabs and than flipped it rather than cut it out on the bandsaw? The perimeter would have been the gauge for the flip?
Yes that is a reasonable method, I have not had much success with it. If I was making a lot of these than a dialed in setup like your talking about would make sense.
amazing work, this type of modeling and cam, can be done with the free version of Fusion 360 or is it the full version. thanks
The free version does everything the paid version can do. The only difference for this work is the gcode has limited rapids. Code that takes a little longer to run shouldn't be a problem for the hobiest.
Do you run one tool paths at a time so you can change tools and re zero? Or do you run the whole setup and if so how do you change tools, edit post?
I built a machine to help me build my guitars but I'm still learning, cutting more simple things thus far.
Great video btw
Fusion360 allows you to post-process out code in several ways. I post out usually by setup and sometimes by the tool. In Mach3 the tool change code will retract and wait for the tool change; you can zero the Z-axis when you change the tool. Cycle star resumes the program until the next tool change in the code.
By my experience it would probably have been a lot easier if you had not cut the body outline at the start, but kept the body atached to the frame with tabs while running the CNC. That way, you can use the waste material for your workholding and indexing, without having to worry about making jigs etc. for holding complex shapes. In the end, when the machining is done, you cut the tabs, and get rid of the ramins of those while sanding, which you will have to do anyway :) Other than that unnecessary additional work you had to do becaus of your process, gret work, I really like the organic shapes, reminds me a lot of the Warwick basses, which I happen to like a lot. (And I know I'm late to the video, I don't intend to raise the dead, I just thought that it was worth pointing out)
This extra work takes about 4 minutes, and what it does makes a marked improvement to the milling. My tool engagement on the rough milling is half the diameter instead of full. So I can run the machine much faster and get a better surface finish. When Slot milling 1.75" deep, there is no way to extract chips they become impacted in the sot and add unintended forces on the tool. The goal is to set up a finishing pass with a specific chip load, This can't be done when slot milling. If it works for you, then great. I avoid slot milling whenever I can. Tabs are also unnecessary due to my work holding technique and avoidance of slot milling.
Hi, can you tell me what bit you're using for the main rough cuts? I'm having trouble getting one that long.
It's a 1/2" x 3", straight two flute, cheap ebay router bit.
Great video! I am getting into the CNC world of guitar making as well. What type of mill did you use for the contouring (the red one), is it some sort of roundover? I am using a normal 3/8 ball end currently but I dont have quite the contours this one has. Beautiful design!
Isn't not my design, it was sent to me to be milled. The lager roundover is a .75 with a .25 shank.
@@TwoCherriesIns Thanks for the video! I am not finding a "lager" roundover bit you mention. Am I missing something? Thanks.
@@pipercub45 its just a 3/4" ball nose, nothing special.
Shrek bass yess
What kind of tape are you using for work holding? I can't find anything that sticks that well to MDF!
This just plain old masking tape form your local big box store. I burnish it into the part and the spoil board with a rounded over piece of maple, If you work it in well and then get a good glue joint with the CA glue it holds better than any double-sided tape, and it's way less expensive. I have to wedge a chisel between the part and the spoil board to remove the part most of the time, and I never have to worry about crashing into a clamp or creating expensive oversized stock to accommodate clamps.
@@TwoCherriesIns I've used the tape/CA glue method for plastic parts (mainly pickguards/inlays), but on top of prefinished birch plywood (so the tape sticks)...never a guitar body right on MDF...I'll have to try it! What are your depth of cut/feedrates when using tape/glue? I generally run 1/8" depth of cut at 100ipm with a 1/2" tool, but I'm curious if the tape would let go with those parameters.
@@jacobcanady4621 I'm generally cutting at .125" to .25" depth of cut with a 1/2" end mill at 200 IPM for roughing. The farther away for the spoil board I get the more conservative I will set my tool paths, So for cutting the heel of an acoustic guitar neck that's nearly 4" above the spoil board, I will set the depth of cut and stopover quite shallow, for bodies and parts less than 1.75" I don't have any issues.
@@TwoCherriesIns Dang that's impressive holding power...definitely going to be doing some tests! Thanks for sharing that information, very cool.
What CNC machine do you have?
It's the Standard CNC router Parts CRP2448
4, 5 or 6 string ? How did it end as ?
A client designed this body I believe in rhino, and I cut it out for him. I have no idea how it ended up. It's a really cool shape and it was a challenge to cut, Unfortunately, I don't have details about it.
song at 1:41?
Sorry, I'm not sure. I don't keep the files for very long after a video is posted, they take up a lot of space. I can tell you that it's in the UA-cam audio library, almost all the music I use comes from there. Thanks for watching.
Very cool design but it looks like Shrek. 😂
I didn't design this one, the 3D model was sent to me. It has an interesting look.
That's a Shrek bass