Hi, i had the same problem. I ordered master- and slave cylinder, in shipping time i found your Video! Then i remove the pipe- replaced it- fixed the problem with the pedal and works great! Thank´s for your help from germany....😏👌
This happened to me but mine is a 3.2l PX1. Wondering if this is the same part? I have tried to get info from ford part dealers but everyone says something different. Sutton's wanted to sell me a whole kit for 900 bucks.
I don't have the part number, but just call the dealership, tell them it's the pipe that connects into the clutch concentric slave cylinder, that has the bleeder nipple in it.
I was gonna get one through ford genuine. thanks so much for sharing, been doing my head in for a couple of weeks now, my client's pedal is only partly sticking down, installed return spring to pedal, improved situation but did not completely fix, few weeks later came back, big headache.
@@adamjones8480 yes,, turns out there is a restrictor in the clutch fluid coupling that is not there in the aftermarket units, since installing problem has been resolved.
Having a pedal issue with my sons ranger, his clutch pedal isn't sinking to the floor though, just not always returning to the top, say about an inch from the top of travel. Does that sound like the same symptoms this ute was having? I removed the dampner and bled fresh fluid through the system, pedal felt fine for a few days then played up again, was leaning towards replacing the master first as i dont really want to remove the gearbox unless i have to. Am i hoping for too much? Should i just drop the box and change this pipe?
Different symptoms but possible it could be the same issue. You would think of the clutch spring was getting weak it would happen more frequently. We did replace the master cylinder first on this one, thinking that was the most likely issue, but it made no difference. If you are pulling the box out I'd replace both this pipe and the clutch assembly as the pressure plate spring could also be a cause.
Same here. It happens after driving on the motorway fast for a while. When slowing and downshifting, the first time pressing the clutch seems to be the trigger. It raises up to about an inch or two below the other pedals. I'm able to lift the pedal up and usually it will stay until the next gear change. This will go on for some time. It may last until the next time the truck fully cools down or just for a few minutes. I was thinking it was old fluid boiling in the slave cylinder due to heat, so I bled it once. The issue has come back but it is less pronounced. I will bleed it again just to see but I think I will look at the spring first.
@@captainotto first time it happened for us was after driving offroad, so i figured the same, old fluid. I flushed it and it still happened a couple more times. But touch wood hasn't played up again for the last month. I purchased a new dampner and master cylinder but will hold off on fitting until it plays up again
@@brendenrose9629I get the sense that the slave cylinder may hold on to some fluid even after flushing. I don't know how true that can be but if it were true, it could be mixing and diluting with the new fluid over time. If so, that could explain what you've experienced and why mine's less pronounced. I'm just guessing of course but want to exhaust all the cheap options before I go for replacing the bleeder pipe and clutch itself (might as well do both I guess if the trans has to drop). What I do know is that when I did bleed the clutch, the fluid came out very dark and EC tested at around 4% moisture. I guess it had never been changed.
Generally reverse bleeding, but with this system we tried every way to bleed it. The reality is it would bleed up fine, and work fine for about two weeks, then start to fail.
Thanks for the information, same problem, where are you based, did you pull it apart to see cause, can I get to it from outside of gearbox? More information please thanks again
Unfortunately there's nothing to really see. You just need to replace the part. Also unfortunately the only way to change this pipe is to remove the gearbox. Based in New Zealand.
I haven't, but I believe it's just a straight through pipe with a bleeder nipple in it. I assume the fault is with the bleeder nipple allowing air to get back into the system.
Hi hope you can see this and give me some advice, I had a similar problem with the clutch pedal not coming all the way back up. I decided to try and bleed it thinking it would be simple enough and gravity would do most of the work however my pipe as in your video was missing the 90 degree piece to attach a bleed pipe to. I can no longer get any fluid down to the pipe do you have any ideas on the best way to get this to work? Thanks
Hi there, to get fluid to come out of the bleeder, you will need to pull back the first metal clip and slide the pipe back away from the plastic pipe shown in the video. That will open the port to the bleeder to allow fluid out. Not sure what part is missing on yours, but as long as you can get fluid coming through, you should be able to bleed it. Also possible that the dampener or master cylinder have issues in the case of the pedal not fully returning.
Thanks for the quick reply, I cannot get any fluid to come out from the pipe at all, even if I completely remove the pipe going to the bleeder and pressurise the bottle still nothing comes down, when I pump the clutch pedal with the bleeder in the open position I can hear air being pumped but I can’t seem to get any fluid down there, any help is appreciated Thanks
@@bencurl1779 so if there's no fluid coming through the pipe, I'd be suspecting the master cylinder. If the cups are stuck in the wrong place, that would prevent any fluid entering the lines. The dampener valve which is along the line on the firewall could also be blocked. I'd remove the pipe from the master cylinder see if you have fluid coming out there. If there is, I'd try removing the dampener valve from the system, then you could disconnect the pipe from the master and slave cylinder ends, blow some air through to check for any further blockages.
Okay I will try this, thank you, I can hear the master cylinder pushing air and the clutch was working before i tried to bleed it however not very good hence the reason for trying to bleed it. Did I hear somewhere that the dampener pipe can be blocked off or something do you know anything about this?
I have a Ranger 2017 model. This problem is intermittent - It is fine for weeks and then the clutch goes limp. Pumping the pedal helps a bit. Bleeding the system at that part also helps. But do you know what the problem with this part is? Do the internals just wear out or does it get air in?
I don't know exactly what goes wrong, my guess is that somehow the bleeder lets some air in. The first one we did, the pedal would go to the floor while the customer was driving, then he would pull over, pump it up and it would be fine for another week. We replace the master cylinder first thinking it was bypassing the cups intermittently, then we removed the damper valve from the system (just after master cylinder). Then we did the slave cylinder (and clutch assembly since the box was out). Each time we did something (and re-bled the system) it would be good for two weeks, then go on him again. We talked to the clutch component supplier who told us these pipes and the damper valves can give issues. So we got a new damper valve to put back in, same thing again. Then we pulled the box out a second time to replace this pipe. That is what finally fixed it. Since then I've done a couple more where we have gone straight to this pipe and it has worked. Recommend getting a genuine part and suggest to the customer doing the clutch assembly or at least the slave cylinder while the box is out also. No one likes pulling a box out twice. I don't know why they don't just put this pipe in the clutch kits if they know it's an issue, it was a $50 part.
i'm a mechanic experiencing the same problem on my px1 3.2 pedal on floor all of a sudden could still change gears but barely would get slightly better after use but still not normal ended up bleeding it had to pressure bleed it to get pedal back but after a week same problem still driveable but only just morning the worst .reluctant to pull gearbox out.Just a question the elbow connection at gearbox seems even thou not leaking very loose is there a o ring that can be replaced as its obviously drawing air somewhere no leaks or fluid loss detected .
Hi there, there are o rings, but on this one we literally replaced everything in the cluth system, before going back to replace this pipe as a last resort. We've now done 3 of these with the exact same issue, the pipe fixes it. There is the possibility that other parts of the system could cause issues also, but we now go straight to this pipe. The damper valves apparently have issues too. I think it must be the bleeder in nipple in this pipe some how drawing in air. Then you have to think about if the box is coming out, do you do the clutch and slave at the same time. The first one of these I did, I replaced the master, the dampner, the clutch assembly and slave, before having to take the box out a second time to do this stupid pipe 😆.
i think the o rings have shrunk in the fitting when applying pressure thy still seal but allow air in without it as that fitting connection seems far to loose in my book .Also it seems to loose its pedal standing overnight on mine.now having fitted some u think i could replace the o rings while in situ.?. As thy don't look easy to excess as i.m bit reluctant to pull my box for this
@@twogates233 not both of them, you could replace the o ring in the pipe that fits into this pipe, but there is also an o ring on the other end of the pipe that fits into the clutch slave. That end of the pipe is in the bell housing. This pipe can't be removed without removing the gearbox unfortunately. If you do remove the gearbox, definitely replace this pipe. I did also try replacing that external o-ring on the first one I did too. It didn't do anything. Most of the faults I e had have been really Intermittent though, not loosing the pedal over night as much as randomly loosing it while driving.
@@gettingitdone1 been thinking about this about it being a restriction in that stupid right angle elbow not freely flowing on the return stroke creating a vacuum when releasing the clutch might be ok when o rings are new but causing this issue when thy harden up .all said and done ford strikes again .Having to pull the gearbox for that is insane.
I was changing my slave an putting the gear box back on that piece snagged and broke.. ended up modifying the line with a longer flex hose directly into the slave.. worked out ..
Hey mate I did the exact same thing, how did you modify the line to go directly into the slave? Did you basically remove this bleeder attachment completely and bypass it was a hose?
I'm not sure if it has a specific name, just tell them it's the clutch pipe that connects into the concentric slave cylinder and has the bleeder nipple in it.
Hi there, sorry I don't have the part number for these, bit we did discover that the genuine Ford part was actually cheaper than the after market ones where we are. So we'll worth calling a Ford dealer and checking that out.
I am a trade qualified mechanic, l have been chasing the same fault with two BT50's, one has done 230k & the other 70k. I have been tearing my hair out! (CHANGED M\C & S\C, & a heap of fluid!) l really hope this fixes the problem.
Hi there, I've done two or three of these now with the same issue. The first one had everything else in the system replaced, this pipe was a last resort but fixed the issue. After that we have gone straight to replacing this pipe and it has continued to fix the issue. Not sure why, as it looks like a straight through pipe, bit we figure it must have something to do with the bleeder being in the pipe. We always fit genuine parts on this one because it's such a big job to replace. We have heard that the damper valves give issues as well, but that was one of the things replaced on the first one, which made no difference either.
@@gettingitdone1 Thank you, l have got the part from Ford AB397C560AC cost between $230-250. Mazda will only sell you the complete clutch fluid line $500-600+ . You have been confident enough to only change this pipe on any low or high km vehicle or vehicle which passes a slipping clutch test? Thank you.
@@andrewtink5659 the gearbox has to come put to replace the pipe. So it's worth recommending to the customer, replacement of the clutch assembly and slave cylinder while the box is out. But have had at least one who didn't want to do that, so we just replaced the pipe and it was fine. The first one we did we replace all of that first and the master cylinder and damper valve and none of it worked. We had to take the box out a second time to do the pipe.
@@gettingitdone1 HI, ANOTHER FAILURE, WENT AND REPLACED THE PIPE. WAS CONFIDENT, BUT NOW IT IS DOING THE SAME THING! I AM LOOSING MY CONFIDENCE REAL FAST. COST PRICE PARTS AND FREE LABOUR, I AM INTO THIS FOR A BIT OVER $2000, LESS MY TIME!
@@andrewtink5659 oh man, that sucks. Sounds like the only part you haven't tried is the dampner valve, it's in the pipe that comes out of the master cylinder. You can actually take it out of the system, by removing it and rejoining the pipes. I have heard that they can cause issues sometimes but I've never seen it. Every one of these we've done has been fixed with the new bleeder pipe. Also are you reverse bleeding the system to make sure all the air is gone? If you haven't heard of reverse bleeding, I can share a video that explains it, it will change your world in bleeding clutch systems.
HI MATE, ME AGAIN. WELL, I HAVE TOTALLY EXHAUSTED IT NOW! I HAVE TRIED, 2X MASTER CYLINDERS, NEW GENUINE CLUTCH PIPE (BLEED PIPE), 2X SLAVE CYLINDERS & A NEW CLUTCH WITH MACHINED FLYWHEEL. I AM GOING TO RE-FIT THE DAMPNER. WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE? NOW I HAVE 3 OF THESE VEHICLES DOIN THE SAME THING! CAN ANY ONE HELP PLEASE.
Man you are having a tough time. So there must be air getting into the system somehow, which could get drawn in through any of those pipe connections. I know when we tried a new dampnerve, it came with a section of pipe also. So they could have issues there too. Do you loose the clutch all together or is it just the pedal sticking to the floor then coming back up?
@@adamjones8480 Hi mate, I think i have solved it. You need 2 people, 1 working the bleeder & 1 working the pedal. Pedal person jabs the pedal, working it aggressively. The other person randomly, after 10-12 pumps clips the bleed valve shut. You need a full reservoir of fluid. I dislike these vehicles with a passion. Sorry for the late reply. If you fixed it, please give me some feedback.
@@adamjones8480 Yes l did, it was air trapped in the new master cylinder & the way I was bleeding the system. You need to really stab the clutch pedal by hand & have someone shut the bleeder randomly.
Clutch Release Concentric Cylinder looking at this unit the clips and seal probably have a slight movement on the depression that wears and eventually starts to leak
For this particular issue, it’s not actually the concentric slave cylinder (although you should replace that at the same time). The fault is in this piece of pipe, we believe that the bleeder somehow lets air back into the system over time. This one had already had the slave replaced and still had the same issue until we replaced the pipe.
Again, thank you for your time and information
Hi, i had the same problem. I ordered master- and slave cylinder, in shipping time i found your Video!
Then i remove the pipe- replaced it- fixed the problem with the pedal and works great! Thank´s for your help from germany....😏👌
Had the same trouble but thanks to this video I got this pipe replaced at same time even thou I had only 60k on the clock. Been great sinds.
This happened to me but mine is a 3.2l PX1. Wondering if this is the same part? I have tried to get info from ford part dealers but everyone says something different. Sutton's wanted to sell me a whole kit for 900 bucks.
Would just be a matter of having a look, see if it has one of these pipes coming out of the bell housing, with the bleeder nipple in it.
@gettingitdone1 what’s the name if that pipe?? Can you please share the part number of the part?
I don't have the part number, but just call the dealership, tell them it's the pipe that connects into the clutch concentric slave cylinder, that has the bleeder nipple in it.
I was gonna get one through ford genuine. thanks so much for sharing, been doing my head in for a couple of weeks now, my client's pedal is only partly sticking down, installed return spring to pedal, improved situation but did not completely fix, few weeks later came back, big headache.
Yeah we've done a couple of these now. We use genuine parts for them now too.
Did this sort your problem? Ive got the exact same issue & have thrown two complete clutch kits at it & can't work it out
@@adamjones8480 yes,, turns out there is a restrictor in the clutch fluid coupling that is not there in the aftermarket units, since installing problem has been resolved.
Having a pedal issue with my sons ranger, his clutch pedal isn't sinking to the floor though, just not always returning to the top, say about an inch from the top of travel. Does that sound like the same symptoms this ute was having?
I removed the dampner and bled fresh fluid through the system, pedal felt fine for a few days then played up again, was leaning towards replacing the master first as i dont really want to remove the gearbox unless i have to. Am i hoping for too much? Should i just drop the box and change this pipe?
Different symptoms but possible it could be the same issue. You would think of the clutch spring was getting weak it would happen more frequently. We did replace the master cylinder first on this one, thinking that was the most likely issue, but it made no difference. If you are pulling the box out I'd replace both this pipe and the clutch assembly as the pressure plate spring could also be a cause.
Thanks for your reply, i hold some small hope now that it may be a sticking cup in the master haha. Really don't want to remove the box
Same here. It happens after driving on the motorway fast for a while. When slowing and downshifting, the first time pressing the clutch seems to be the trigger. It raises up to about an inch or two below the other pedals. I'm able to lift the pedal up and usually it will stay until the next gear change. This will go on for some time. It may last until the next time the truck fully cools down or just for a few minutes.
I was thinking it was old fluid boiling in the slave cylinder due to heat, so I bled it once. The issue has come back but it is less pronounced. I will bleed it again just to see but I think I will look at the spring first.
@@captainotto first time it happened for us was after driving offroad, so i figured the same, old fluid. I flushed it and it still happened a couple more times. But touch wood hasn't played up again for the last month. I purchased a new dampner and master cylinder but will hold off on fitting until it plays up again
@@brendenrose9629I get the sense that the slave cylinder may hold on to some fluid even after flushing. I don't know how true that can be but if it were true, it could be mixing and diluting with the new fluid over time. If so, that could explain what you've experienced and why mine's less pronounced. I'm just guessing of course but want to exhaust all the cheap options before I go for replacing the bleeder pipe and clutch itself (might as well do both I guess if the trans has to drop). What I do know is that when I did bleed the clutch, the fluid came out very dark and EC tested at around 4% moisture. I guess it had never been changed.
How are you bleeding the system?
Generally reverse bleeding, but with this system we tried every way to bleed it. The reality is it would bleed up fine, and work fine for about two weeks, then start to fail.
Thanks for the information, same problem, where are you based, did you pull it apart to see cause, can I get to it from outside of gearbox? More information please thanks again
Unfortunately there's nothing to really see. You just need to replace the part. Also unfortunately the only way to change this pipe is to remove the gearbox. Based in New Zealand.
Hi. have you ever cut this tube open to see whats inside? it will give more reason to believe it is this pipe.
I haven't, but I believe it's just a straight through pipe with a bleeder nipple in it. I assume the fault is with the bleeder nipple allowing air to get back into the system.
Hi hope you can see this and give me some advice, I had a similar problem with the clutch pedal not coming all the way back up. I decided to try and bleed it thinking it would be simple enough and gravity would do most of the work however my pipe as in your video was missing the 90 degree piece to attach a bleed pipe to. I can no longer get any fluid down to the pipe do you have any ideas on the best way to get this to work? Thanks
Hi there, to get fluid to come out of the bleeder, you will need to pull back the first metal clip and slide the pipe back away from the plastic pipe shown in the video. That will open the port to the bleeder to allow fluid out. Not sure what part is missing on yours, but as long as you can get fluid coming through, you should be able to bleed it. Also possible that the dampener or master cylinder have issues in the case of the pedal not fully returning.
Thanks for the quick reply, I cannot get any fluid to come out from the pipe at all, even if I completely remove the pipe going to the bleeder and pressurise the bottle still nothing comes down, when I pump the clutch pedal with the bleeder in the open position I can hear air being pumped but I can’t seem to get any fluid down there, any help is appreciated
Thanks
@@bencurl1779 so if there's no fluid coming through the pipe, I'd be suspecting the master cylinder. If the cups are stuck in the wrong place, that would prevent any fluid entering the lines. The dampener valve which is along the line on the firewall could also be blocked. I'd remove the pipe from the master cylinder see if you have fluid coming out there. If there is, I'd try removing the dampener valve from the system, then you could disconnect the pipe from the master and slave cylinder ends, blow some air through to check for any further blockages.
Okay I will try this, thank you, I can hear the master cylinder pushing air and the clutch was working before i tried to bleed it however not very good hence the reason for trying to bleed it. Did I hear somewhere that the dampener pipe can be blocked off or something do you know anything about this?
I have a Ranger 2017 model. This problem is intermittent - It is fine for weeks and then the clutch goes limp. Pumping the pedal helps a bit. Bleeding the system at that part also helps. But do you know what the problem with this part is? Do the internals just wear out or does it get air in?
I don't know exactly what goes wrong, my guess is that somehow the bleeder lets some air in. The first one we did, the pedal would go to the floor while the customer was driving, then he would pull over, pump it up and it would be fine for another week. We replace the master cylinder first thinking it was bypassing the cups intermittently, then we removed the damper valve from the system (just after master cylinder). Then we did the slave cylinder (and clutch assembly since the box was out). Each time we did something (and re-bled the system) it would be good for two weeks, then go on him again. We talked to the clutch component supplier who told us these pipes and the damper valves can give issues. So we got a new damper valve to put back in, same thing again. Then we pulled the box out a second time to replace this pipe. That is what finally fixed it. Since then I've done a couple more where we have gone straight to this pipe and it has worked. Recommend getting a genuine part and suggest to the customer doing the clutch assembly or at least the slave cylinder while the box is out also. No one likes pulling a box out twice. I don't know why they don't just put this pipe in the clutch kits if they know it's an issue, it was a $50 part.
Jeeez!!! I have an exact similar problem… how did you sort yours?
@@xxxxxl4120 It gradually got so bad that I had the bleeder unit/slave cylinder replaced. No problems thereafter.
my 2014 PX was doing this intermittently now its permanently at the floor.
Try bleeding the system, if that brings it back up again, this pipe could be your issue.
i'm a mechanic experiencing the same problem on my px1 3.2 pedal on floor all of a sudden could still change gears but barely would get slightly better after use but still not normal ended up bleeding it had to pressure bleed it to get pedal back but after a week same problem still driveable but only just morning the worst .reluctant to pull gearbox out.Just a question the elbow connection at gearbox seems even thou not leaking very loose is there a o ring that can be replaced as its obviously drawing air somewhere no leaks or fluid loss detected .
Hi there, there are o rings, but on this one we literally replaced everything in the cluth system, before going back to replace this pipe as a last resort. We've now done 3 of these with the exact same issue, the pipe fixes it. There is the possibility that other parts of the system could cause issues also, but we now go straight to this pipe. The damper valves apparently have issues too. I think it must be the bleeder in nipple in this pipe some how drawing in air. Then you have to think about if the box is coming out, do you do the clutch and slave at the same time. The first one of these I did, I replaced the master, the dampner, the clutch assembly and slave, before having to take the box out a second time to do this stupid pipe 😆.
i think the o rings have shrunk in the fitting when applying pressure thy still seal but allow air in without it as that fitting connection seems far to loose in my book .Also it seems to loose its pedal standing overnight on mine.now having fitted some u think i could replace the o rings while in situ.?. As thy don't look easy to excess as i.m bit reluctant to pull my box for this
@@twogates233 not both of them, you could replace the o ring in the pipe that fits into this pipe, but there is also an o ring on the other end of the pipe that fits into the clutch slave. That end of the pipe is in the bell housing. This pipe can't be removed without removing the gearbox unfortunately. If you do remove the gearbox, definitely replace this pipe. I did also try replacing that external o-ring on the first one I did too. It didn't do anything. Most of the faults I e had have been really Intermittent though, not loosing the pedal over night as much as randomly loosing it while driving.
@@gettingitdone1 been thinking about this about it being a restriction in that stupid right angle elbow not freely flowing on the return stroke creating a vacuum when releasing the clutch might be ok when o rings are new but causing this issue when thy harden up .all said and done ford strikes again .Having to pull the gearbox for that is insane.
Where can I get one as I am having this exact problem?
Should be able to get them through any clutch parts supplier.
I was changing my slave an putting the gear box back on that piece snagged and broke.. ended up modifying the line with a longer flex hose directly into the slave.. worked out ..
Hey mate I did the exact same thing, how did you modify the line to go directly into the slave? Did you basically remove this bleeder attachment completely and bypass it was a hose?
WHATS THE NAME OF THIS PART
I'm not sure if it has a specific name, just tell them it's the clutch pipe that connects into the concentric slave cylinder and has the bleeder nipple in it.
What's the part no? Thanks in advance
Hi there, sorry I don't have the part number for these, bit we did discover that the genuine Ford part was actually cheaper than the after market ones where we are. So we'll worth calling a Ford dealer and checking that out.
AB397C560AC GENUINE FORD.
I am a trade qualified mechanic, l have been chasing the same fault with two BT50's, one has done 230k & the other 70k. I have been tearing my hair out! (CHANGED M\C & S\C, & a heap of fluid!)
l really hope this fixes the problem.
Hi there, I've done two or three of these now with the same issue. The first one had everything else in the system replaced, this pipe was a last resort but fixed the issue. After that we have gone straight to replacing this pipe and it has continued to fix the issue. Not sure why, as it looks like a straight through pipe, bit we figure it must have something to do with the bleeder being in the pipe. We always fit genuine parts on this one because it's such a big job to replace. We have heard that the damper valves give issues as well, but that was one of the things replaced on the first one, which made no difference either.
@@gettingitdone1 Thank you, l have got the part from Ford AB397C560AC cost between $230-250. Mazda will only sell you the complete clutch fluid line $500-600+ . You have been confident enough to only change this pipe on any low or high km vehicle or vehicle which passes a slipping clutch test? Thank you.
@@andrewtink5659 the gearbox has to come put to replace the pipe. So it's worth recommending to the customer, replacement of the clutch assembly and slave cylinder while the box is out. But have had at least one who didn't want to do that, so we just replaced the pipe and it was fine. The first one we did we replace all of that first and the master cylinder and damper valve and none of it worked. We had to take the box out a second time to do the pipe.
@@gettingitdone1 HI, ANOTHER FAILURE, WENT AND REPLACED THE PIPE. WAS CONFIDENT, BUT NOW IT IS DOING THE SAME THING! I AM LOOSING MY CONFIDENCE REAL FAST. COST PRICE PARTS AND FREE LABOUR, I AM INTO THIS FOR A BIT OVER $2000, LESS MY TIME!
@@andrewtink5659 oh man, that sucks. Sounds like the only part you haven't tried is the dampner valve, it's in the pipe that comes out of the master cylinder. You can actually take it out of the system, by removing it and rejoining the pipes. I have heard that they can cause issues sometimes but I've never seen it. Every one of these we've done has been fixed with the new bleeder pipe. Also are you reverse bleeding the system to make sure all the air is gone? If you haven't heard of reverse bleeding, I can share a video that explains it, it will change your world in bleeding clutch systems.
HI MATE, ME AGAIN. WELL, I HAVE TOTALLY EXHAUSTED IT NOW! I HAVE TRIED, 2X MASTER CYLINDERS, NEW GENUINE CLUTCH PIPE (BLEED PIPE), 2X SLAVE CYLINDERS & A NEW CLUTCH WITH MACHINED FLYWHEEL. I AM GOING TO RE-FIT THE DAMPNER. WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE? NOW I HAVE 3 OF THESE VEHICLES DOIN THE SAME THING! CAN ANY ONE HELP PLEASE.
Man you are having a tough time. So there must be air getting into the system somehow, which could get drawn in through any of those pipe connections. I know when we tried a new dampnerve, it came with a section of pipe also. So they could have issues there too. Do you loose the clutch all together or is it just the pedal sticking to the floor then coming back up?
Did you get this resolved? I'm currently in the same situation although luckily only with 1 instead of 3 vehicles
@@adamjones8480 Hi mate, I think i have solved it. You need 2 people, 1 working the bleeder & 1 working the pedal. Pedal person jabs the pedal, working it aggressively. The other person randomly, after 10-12 pumps clips the bleed valve shut. You need a full reservoir of fluid. I dislike these vehicles with a passion. Sorry for the late reply. If you fixed it, please give me some feedback.
@@adamjones8480 Yes l did, it was air trapped in the new master cylinder & the way I was bleeding the system. You need to really stab the clutch pedal by hand & have someone shut the bleeder randomly.
@@andrewtink5659 thats like the old way with a bleed nipple
thanks for the information
Clutch Release Concentric Cylinder
looking at this unit the clips and seal probably have a slight movement on the depression that wears and eventually starts to leak
For this particular issue, it’s not actually the concentric slave cylinder (although you should replace that at the same time). The fault is in this piece of pipe, we believe that the bleeder somehow lets air back into the system over time. This one had already had the slave replaced and still had the same issue until we replaced the pipe.