This video is a perfect example why sometimes UA-cam is better than a live class. I would never remember all this from a live class, but I like knowing I can come back to it when I need it! (Added to playlist!)
Thank you Roxanne! Another great video. I prefer a V-neck shape and most patterns do not have a V-neck. I would love to learn how to modify the neck to create a V-neck shaping. 😊
You are amazing!! This is so helpful, Roxanne. I’ve knit plenty of sweater necks, and I’ve even modified a few of them, but I’ve never understood what I was doing until now. I’m just fine at following instructions, but visualizing what I will end up with is super hard for me. You’ve given me just the tools I needed to practice with so I can “see” what I’m doing when I knit. Heck, I might be able to use this for sleeve mods, shoulder shaping - just everything! Also, the mini sweaters are just the icing on the cake of this video series🥰
Thank you so much for doing a break down of how the math works! I've seen so many videos that don't get into the breakdown of how to figure out how to plan things or actually make adjustments that I've been hesitant to start my first sweater, but after watching some of your videos I feel much mode confident thank you so much!
This was so helpful! I'm really struggling with this at the moment, so this was extremely helpful, I'll keep this video at hand moving forward (as I do with many other of your videos). You are truly a natural gifted teacher. Thank you so much!!
Hi Roxanne. What a great video! I actually understand it, lol! A math wiz I am not but your explanations are so clear and concise! Great series! I see you are almost at 100k subscribers! Awesome! Thanks for another fantastic video!💕
Your little mannequin is a great idea. It would let one learn different sweater construction without investing so much time (and yarn). I think most of us are visual learners.
Very interesting! I was searching for some basic information on picking up stitches for the neckband and stumbled onto this video. Understanding the basic concept of how a neck pattern is designed is useful for predicting how a particular pattern would fit even if one isn't planning on doing one's own pattern design modifications. Thank you! p.s. I would love a video walking through different types of neck bands. Maybe you have one but I haven't found it yet.
Can you explain what you main by different neck bands? Do you mean different ribbing patterns? Ribbed vs hemmed vs rolled? Or are you talking about different neck opening shapes, like crew, scoop, V-neck, boat, square, etc.?
Oh just in general. Could be all of the things you mentioned. But I was thinking initially about modifying a bottom up vest pattern to sub in cowl neck instead of a small rib band. Modifying patterns is probably way beyond my current skill set, but I like watching videos and imagining the day that I will get good enough to do that.
This has been very helpful! I'm incorporating this for a cardigan with shoulder seams. So do you shape only the front, and the back just stays flat edge?
Some people will drop the back of the neck 1/2-3/4'', but it really depends on what sort of neck/collar treatment you're doing. I prefer the back of the neck to be straight across, because it adds some stability to the shoulders. For collars that need to go up the neck and fold down (e.g. shawl collars), a horizontal back of neck works better than dropping the base of that neck.
@@RoxanneRichardson Ah, thank you! I’ll be doing a crew neck like in the video. So if I drop the back, do I keep the same measurements for the front like in the video or do I make adjustments?
Thanks for this very helpful video, Roxanne! I am about to start a top-down lopi pullover, worked in-the-round of course, with a 1" folded ribbed collar that I'd like to make a bit wider than a standard crew neck, but not as wide as a boatneck -- maybe a circumference of 18". I'm concerned that it be wide enough to go over the head (and have the required stretchiness for that), but not so stretchy that it will not be strong enough to support the weight of the sweater without the collar being stretched out too much. For such a sweater, it is better to make the base of the collar more stable by having a cast-on edge there, from which I would later pick up stitches to work the collar? Or would it better to keep that base of the collar more stretchy by working the folded ribbed collar first, using a provisional cast-on as the base, with which the last round of the folded collar would be worked together before proceeding downward through the yoke, etc., so that the base of the collar would basically have the same stretchiness and strength as any other regular round of knit stitches? I hope this makes sense! Thanks for any advice you can offer!
I am sorry to say but I think the maths and the diagrams you used at the start this time are not so clear. The ones at the end when you show the adding up are very good. However you said the width of the neck is about half of the width of the shoulders and you show a drawing with shoulder at 4 1/2 but the neck is 6 1/2. So assuming you would add two shoulder to make 9 so no way half. You do explain this and say that adding the ribbing will fill the gap but you did not explain how to calculate the ribbing. I can only presume it is at about one inch because that would indeed make it about half of the width of the two shoulders but you did not explain it at this point futher. Fianlly you have not put on a measurement for the neck front you say about half of the width of the back is this before ribbing after it is the same? I was some what confused it is quite hard to follow at this point I had to really think about what you meant I am good at math and visualising. Sorry having watched you other videos if I saw this first I would maybe have switched off not have watched more and seen what you meant. Not meaning to be nasty because the rest is clear but this first part may confuse people.
The width of the sweater shoulders vary, based on the type of sweater. At about 1:46 the video states that the neck opening is *about* half the width of the *human's* shoulders. The neck opening will be the same width, regardless of whether it is a drop shoulder, modified drop shoulder, set-in sleeve or raglan. The width of the *sweater* shoulders will be wider for a drop shoulder, a bit narrower for a modified drop, and even more narrow (typically) for a set-in sleeve sweater. The neck opening width itself can vary, based on preference (close fitting neck vs wide neck), and the depth of the ribbing can also vary.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you I did find the later part useful and yoir other videos are super helpful but if i had seen this first I maybe would not have watched it all or more. I habe thankful found the pattern I am trying to finish elsewhere.
In the explanation, you say most neckline opening are about 1/2 of the total neck. For your example, in getting 4.5 + 4.5 +6.5 = 15.5. 6.5 isn't 1/2 that. Or is that close enough to count?
There's a note on the screen at 1:54 that specifies it's 1/2 of the human's shoulder width. The sweater shoulders can be wider for some styles, like drop shoulder and modified drop shoulder sweaters. The schematic is for a modified drop shoulder sweater.
I can tell that I will be watching this a couple of times more. Maybe without the glass of wine.
😄
This video is a perfect example why sometimes UA-cam is better than a live class. I would never remember all this from a live class, but I like knowing I can come back to it when I need it! (Added to playlist!)
This is the best video I've found on UA-cam telling you how to draft neckline. Great video, easy to understand. Thank you very much.
Thank you Roxanne! Another great video. I prefer a V-neck shape and most patterns do not have a V-neck. I would love to learn how to modify the neck to create a V-neck shaping. 😊
Amazing. You are a born teacher and this series is packed with information that I couldn’t even attempt without your videos Thank you
Interesting as always. You're a real goldmine of knitting knowledge!
You are amazing!! This is so helpful, Roxanne. I’ve knit plenty of sweater necks, and I’ve even modified a few of them, but I’ve never understood what I was doing until now. I’m just fine at following instructions, but visualizing what I will end up with is super hard for me. You’ve given me just the tools I needed to practice with so I can “see” what I’m doing when I knit. Heck, I might be able to use this for sleeve mods, shoulder shaping - just everything! Also, the mini sweaters are just the icing on the cake of this video series🥰
Just what I needed! And when I need it. Thank you! I’ll be using the graph from now on to get everything straightened out.
Really love this series.
Thank you so much for doing a break down of how the math works! I've seen so many videos that don't get into the breakdown of how to figure out how to plan things or actually make adjustments that I've been hesitant to start my first sweater, but after watching some of your videos I feel much mode confident thank you so much!
Love the teeny sweater models, Roxanne! 😉
Thank you as always for a very informative video. I will be watching this again and again as I fix a few of my knits.
Very clear, I may well try it out, perhaps on a child's cardigan first to check I understood it fully. Thanks Roxanne.
Simple yet so well explained. You’ve made my day! Thank you ever so much!
This was so helpful! I'm really struggling with this at the moment, so this was extremely helpful, I'll keep this video at hand moving forward (as I do with many other of your videos). You are truly a natural gifted teacher. Thank you so much!!
Just found you and you are a knitting guru. I will be hanging out here learning. Thank you.
Great explanation! How about a v-neck tutorial?
This is so useful to modify necklines, thank you so much !
Hi Roxanne. What a great video! I actually understand it, lol! A math wiz I am not but your explanations are so clear and concise! Great series! I see you are almost at 100k subscribers! Awesome! Thanks for another fantastic video!💕
Your little mannequin is a great idea. It would let one learn different sweater construction without investing so much time (and yarn). I think most of us are visual learners.
1:33 that sweater is adorable! 😁
Thanks, Roxanne! Have a coffee and nosh on me!
Thanks, Allison! :-)
Thank you it was very helpful
Very interesting! I was searching for some basic information on picking up stitches for the neckband and stumbled onto this video. Understanding the basic concept of how a neck pattern is designed is useful for predicting how a particular pattern would fit even if one isn't planning on doing one's own pattern design modifications. Thank you! p.s. I would love a video walking through different types of neck bands. Maybe you have one but I haven't found it yet.
Can you explain what you main by different neck bands? Do you mean different ribbing patterns? Ribbed vs hemmed vs rolled? Or are you talking about different neck opening shapes, like crew, scoop, V-neck, boat, square, etc.?
Oh just in general. Could be all of the things you mentioned. But I was thinking initially about modifying a bottom up vest pattern to sub in cowl neck instead of a small rib band. Modifying patterns is probably way beyond my current skill set, but I like watching videos and imagining the day that I will get good enough to do that.
Super helpful video!!
Thanks- this was soo very helpful!!
Thanks for the vdo❤️❤️❤️💚💚💚
This has been very helpful! I'm incorporating this for a cardigan with shoulder seams. So do you shape only the front, and the back just stays flat edge?
Some people will drop the back of the neck 1/2-3/4'', but it really depends on what sort of neck/collar treatment you're doing. I prefer the back of the neck to be straight across, because it adds some stability to the shoulders. For collars that need to go up the neck and fold down (e.g. shawl collars), a horizontal back of neck works better than dropping the base of that neck.
@@RoxanneRichardson Ah, thank you! I’ll be doing a crew neck like in the video. So if I drop the back, do I keep the same measurements for the front like in the video or do I make adjustments?
Could’ve used this last week but I’m sure it will be good info later. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge. 🧶💕🧶
Thanks for this very helpful video, Roxanne! I am about to start a top-down lopi pullover, worked in-the-round of course, with a 1" folded ribbed collar that I'd like to make a bit wider than a standard crew neck, but not as wide as a boatneck -- maybe a circumference of 18". I'm concerned that it be wide enough to go over the head (and have the required stretchiness for that), but not so stretchy that it will not be strong enough to support the weight of the sweater without the collar being stretched out too much. For such a sweater, it is better to make the base of the collar more stable by having a cast-on edge there, from which I would later pick up stitches to work the collar? Or would it better to keep that base of the collar more stretchy by working the folded ribbed collar first, using a provisional cast-on as the base, with which the last round of the folded collar would be worked together before proceeding downward through the yoke, etc., so that the base of the collar would basically have the same stretchiness and strength as any other regular round of knit stitches? I hope this makes sense! Thanks for any advice you can offer!
I'd add the ribbing later, by picking up along a CO edge, rather than starting with the ribbing.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks for your advice!
I am sorry to say but I think the maths and the diagrams you used at the start this time are not so clear. The ones at the end when you show the adding up are very good.
However you said the width of the neck is about half of the width of the shoulders and you show a drawing with shoulder at 4 1/2 but the neck is 6 1/2. So assuming you would add two shoulder to make 9 so no way half. You do explain this and say that adding the ribbing will fill the gap but you did not explain how to calculate the ribbing. I can only presume it is at about one inch because that would indeed make it about half of the width of the two shoulders but you did not explain it at this point futher.
Fianlly you have not put on a measurement for the neck front you say about half of the width of the back is this before ribbing after it is the same?
I was some what confused it is quite hard to follow at this point I had to really think about what you meant I am good at math and visualising.
Sorry having watched you other videos if I saw this first I would maybe have switched off not have watched more and seen what you meant. Not meaning to be nasty because the rest is clear but this first part may confuse people.
The width of the sweater shoulders vary, based on the type of sweater. At about 1:46 the video states that the neck opening is *about* half the width of the *human's* shoulders. The neck opening will be the same width, regardless of whether it is a drop shoulder, modified drop shoulder, set-in sleeve or raglan. The width of the *sweater* shoulders will be wider for a drop shoulder, a bit narrower for a modified drop, and even more narrow (typically) for a set-in sleeve sweater. The neck opening width itself can vary, based on preference (close fitting neck vs wide neck), and the depth of the ribbing can also vary.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you I did find the later part useful and yoir other videos are super helpful but if i had seen this first I maybe would not have watched it all or more. I habe thankful found the pattern I am trying to finish elsewhere.
In the explanation, you say most neckline opening are about 1/2 of the total neck. For your example, in getting 4.5 + 4.5 +6.5 = 15.5. 6.5 isn't 1/2 that. Or is that close enough to count?
There's a note on the screen at 1:54 that specifies it's 1/2 of the human's shoulder width. The sweater shoulders can be wider for some styles, like drop shoulder and modified drop shoulder sweaters. The schematic is for a modified drop shoulder sweater.
@@RoxanneRichardson ah!! Light bulb. Thanks