Drop In Hotend Upgrade For Creality K1 & K1 Max Printers (Micro Swiss FlowTech™)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- Find out more or pick up your own FlowTech™ Hotend here:
store.micro-swiss.com/collect...
Installation Instructions PDF:
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/121...
Love the channel? Consider supporting me on Patreon:
www.patreon.com/user?u=806627
Get Great Filament From PolyMaker & Help Support The Channel:
bit.ly/3P5MRD7
ModBot Merch Store is now live! Get yours here:
bit.ly/3qhJ8Yl
Join the official ModBotArmy discord server: / discord
In this video we take a look at the Micro Swiss FlowTech™ Hotend for Creality K1 / K1 Max. This is a brand new hotend featuring a unique nozzle heatbreak hybrid that prevents leaking and allows for cold nozzle swaps. The longer melt zone also provides improved flow. We will go step by step as we remove the stock hotend and get up and running with FlowTech™.
(´∀｀)♡ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases:
Buy now on Amazon: amzn.to/2jQAOgV
Subscribe To My 3d Printing Blog! :
Lets Get Social!
Facebook: / dopesoner930
Twitter: / modbotarmy
Instagram: / modbotarmy
Twitch: / dopesoner930
I wish manufacturer's assembly and repair videos were this clear and informative. Great step-by-step instructions and clear well focused video with the best camera angles to convey the information. The Micro-Swiss hotend would be a great update for the crazy low Black Friday pricing that Creality is currently running on the K1 Max.
A comparison to the TriangleLabs CHCB-OT would be cool.
Excellent installation video! This is well spoken and a good pacing. Your walkthrough and MicroSwiss drop in design will help save someone a tool head for sure! Thank you for working with your sponsors to bring us quality content.
Your tutorial sections are really great! The attention to detail you put into each step (what size screws, how to remove a connector or how to remove the shroud, etc...) is really great. It's nice when people don't just assume "oh that's obvious I don't need to mention it".
He forgot to mention 1 crucial detail.
Before removing the connector of the heater and thermistor from the backside, it is a GREAT idea to pry off the glue securing the connectors.
As the connectors are less securely attached to the metal spikes soldered to the board, than how strong the glue can hold.em togehter, so you can yank the plastic socket clean off the board if you are not careful.
P.s.: On the upside the metal spikes ofc. still remain solderex to the board, so you can replug the socket, it will just look damn ugly, and be damn scary.
I dont know that this glue can be removed. When hot glue is used some IPA will cause it to come right off but the glue use in this case is not that.
Doing the back and fourth wiggle with the connector was not too difficult to get it to break the seal in the glue. With how small the connectors are I almost feel it could be as easy to damage trying to remove the glue with something sharp.
I appreciate it. I really try to cover as much as I can to prevent accidents from happening. Of course some will think it is too much and there will be some items I maybe miss but I definitely consider as many aspects as possible when putting something like this together.
Just got one of these, and you made the installation even simpler and worry free than it already is
nice video man , at last we are on an era of just plug and play our 3d printers and with minor upgrades . im full of custom builds and im looking very interested in these new 3d printers from creality, the upcoming flsun , and quidi ... good time for 3d printing .
purchased 3 of those, they have ~5 watts more compared to stock. flow is 3-5 less than CHT+stock hotend (at same temp) but extrusion quality is much better and more consistent. also much less VFA, looks like the heatbreak mount with threads on stock is a transfer point for vibrations. with 230°C@stock i have the same amount of gloss as with 250°C on flowtech, which means stock hotend is operating at 10-20°C more than shown by the thermistor. if we reduce stock hotend to ~210°C (230°C real) the gloss is gone but flow WITH cht drops to 23-25 ! my flow with flowtech+sunlu pla+ at 230 is ~28-29. sunlu meta is >40m³ @210
you have many confounding factors in there.
Thermistors are the same probs on stock AND flowtech.
or the same type at the very least, otherwise flowtech would show incorrect values.
Nice content as always. A good tool to have for any 3d printer electronics disassembly is a pair of tweezers called dressing or thumb forceps. I've also seen them listed as rat tooth tweezers. They look like a regular pair of tweezers except they have hooked teeth on the tips, one tooth on one side and two teeth on the other. They make grabbing and pulling on those small JST connectors a lot easier and safer. They're less than $7 on AMZ.
Thank you, random stranger. You may have just solved a problem I didn't know I had.
First time hearing about these thank you. I will get a pair in.
I didn’t find the exact ones but it ordered the i fixit pair that has a 45 degree at the end that comes to a fine point. Will give them a go.
This was a very good and easy to understand explenation how to intall the Micro Swiss Hotend. I have considered if to buy or not, since I was a bit worried about if it should be diffucult to install. Now I'm sure that I will buy this. GREAT JOB!!!
Note: pull wires holding connector, NOT cable, because you will destroy cable over time
In a lot of these cases it is so small that it is not possible. That is why I recommend at least getting as close to it as possible. Minimize the strain on the wires.
@@ModBotArmyyou can typically grab the included flat head screw driver and wedge it in the side of the connecters and pry/twist on each side usually will do the trick
Very professional video as always,i like this video
I have one of these on my XMas list. I hope I was a good boy this year!
I just got one! I had a clog in my throat so I figured I might as well just upgrade to the hot end that would prevent it from happening again.
Thanks for the video. Very intresting. I was a little surprised, that CHC heater connected by XH2.54 socet. The maximum current for CHC is about 5Amps, but the socet is for 2Amps only. Sorry for my English. :)
Bought this a couple of weeks ago but still to install it. Have you seen any improvements or backwards printing qualities at all?
always nice to see
Pretty fun for me Creality sent mine with stripped screws.
Maybe test this with 0,6mm nozzle and compare :)
Thanks for the tutorial but do you have an in depth review of the flowtech kit?
Great video! thanks
I planned on upgrading at the start, so I have the hotend and an extra 0.6 nozzle. I did ask microswiss if they would have hardened steel nozzles and was told eventually they would have other materials. Right now it is a moot point for me as I await some response from Creality support for a mostly dead K1 Max after it updated itself. Turns on, and that is all. I hope they can provide me with a replacement before the short return window closes. Looks like part of the mainboard died as it will not flash anything and the Ngenix Creality firmware recovery does not do anything.
I've put a few hundred print hours through my k1 max now and I absolutely love it. It has been printing polymax polycarbonate functional parts for me like it's nothing! Perfect first layers and superb dimensional accuracy. Haven't even considered and upgrades to it yet
that's awesome, good to hear. I have a K1 at home and I'm loving it also but I have only used PLA. I guess I should get to work using some other filaments. Are you still using a .4 nozzle? I switched to .6 and saw no quality difference at all. I like it a lot.
Is that .4 nozzle and what do you use for setting for the polymax i.e speed and temp for nozzle and bed
@@rlbrlb5109 40mm/s 270c 105c. 112% extrusion. Stock nozzle. No bed glue
If you think it prints good now, put the micro swiss in and you will have perfection.
How easy is it to swap out the nozzle once this is fitted? I don't fancy having to remove the LIDAR cable every time I want to change the nozzle.
Are you using orcasliser ? How did you setup to send directly to the k1?
I have the TriangleLab CHCB-OT on the K1 and it goes perfect also but I have to remove the nozzle to print with more technical filaments (that's my objective & the reason why I purschased it)... Does the Microswiss to be able to print with CF??? Because if it's true, I will purchase one and leave the other as spare.
no thermal paste on the copper insert?
Can a normal volcano nozzle work in the microswiss hot end?
So wait did it improve print quality?
Well done!
But Is there a Hardened Steel Nozzle for K1 (by Microswiss) for reinforced filament?
Ordered mine today
Hi everyone:) pid calibration this to 230c or 250c and use creality own silicone guard to make the air flow better. That black silicone just push the air down and yes happy 3d printting:)
It has its own nozzle? I can’t use a ruby or diamond nozzle correct?
In the market for another printer for my business. I print only tpu, and im in-between a K1 and Bambu Lab p1p. The extruder on the k1 seems better for tpu, and also upgradeable, but the print quality seems better on the p1p, especially 1st layer.. whats your thoughts?
5:13 really, that loose?!? Does screwing in the nozzle tighten things up?
Good Vid, but I was expecting to see the post-install one-handed nozzle swap, cheers!
This is an essential upgrade for the K1 series. The plated nozzle lays down layers perfectly. So much so I was able to stop using glue sticks. All of the little annoying defects in my prints are gone. It was like a night and day difference. My prints are literally perfect.
You recommend it? I'm getting my k1max in one week. Should I order this and install asap? Or see if it's needed
@@giinnoo08I’d also like to know if people really recommend this. I’m currently having random under extrusion and it’s destroying my prints. I’m considering this as an upgrade but would like to know if others have had an under extrusion issue?
no problems here. @@raymondmcgreal2635
This hotend is garbage. Get a Triangle Labs CHCB-OT with a Z+ nozzle. They're way better.
if you don't mind me asking - what printers do you actually keep around? i wont tell nobody
does it print carboon with the standard hotend from micro swiss?
Did you adjust any of your sliced settings for this. I installed one (after a nozzle sheered in the original) and have had really bad stringing on every print since. Running orca slicer with the default k1 max profiles. Have tried upping retraction distance, but I don’t know how far to go with it
Stringing = dial down the heat, possibly flowrate but heat first
I saw two other tutorials - no mention of titanium screws there. Is that a new addition?
As far as I know it has always been. It just launched so unless they had an immediate revision I am unaware of they should have all had them.
Looks like a specially-designed nozzle just for this hot end. I don't see a harden-steel version on the Micro Swiss website. What do you do for printing abrasive filaments?
It's called the Micro Swiss CM2™ Nozzle - for FlowTech™, and they are $23.75 each. "Micro Swiss CM2™ Nozzle is an ideal nozzle for all applications. Core of the nozzle is made of high-temperature Copper Chromium Zirconium and plated with an Electroless Nickel Plating. This special alloy retains its strength at much higher temperatures compared to a regular copper alloy. The tip of the nozzle is made of M2 Hardened High Speed Steel and coated with a special nonstick nano coating."
Can anyone tell me if they were able to print carbon fiber nylon with the .4mm nozzle with this hotend?
If i get the flowtech hotend, do i have to use the flowtech nozzles or can i use a diamond tipped one instead?
unfortunately no. the hot ends are designed differently.
Were did you get the print for the side filament please ?
Does this effexts the speeds ? And what are the benefits ?
I was wondering the same. Yes it gets more flow but in the end it doesn't seem to matter when printing. The only benefit I found is that this new nozzle is leak-proof.
does anybody know what is "lifetime" of these new nozzles?
I ran a flow test with the stock hotend with Polymaker Polyterra and it started skipped at 28,5 …
Is this the same for k1c?
What about thermal paste between the cooper sleeve and the heat sink?
No mention of needing it. It’s a mixed bag as far as printers/hotends that I have running with or without thermal paste.
@@ModBotArmyI'd be interested in what they would have to say about why the cooper coupler doesn't need thermal paste if they didnt provide any and don't reference it in their instructions should you get the opportunity to ask
RE removing the cables... cut the goop before you start wiggling - whoever plugged mine in at the factory had a heavy hand with the glue. I actually cracked the JST connector when mine finally came loose. It works, but I'm a little worried it's going to come loose at some point.
Same here. VERY difficult to get that plug out and a definitely cracked a chunk of it off. I had to meticulously cut the glue off. Obviously, this is on Creality and not Micro Swiss but it would be helpful for this tip to be in the video...
Understatement on the glue. I broke a peice of the connector trying to get it out
Dan the Man! Thank you for motioning PID calibration is not necessary with this new hot end... I wuz wondering why MicroSwiss's instructions left that part out... Now I know!
It was one of my first questions to them about the install 😂. Glad I included it 👍.
I just got these a week ago and they're already clogged, Sent Micro Swiss an email about it, Hope they can do something cause I paid 120$ with shipping
Any further issues?
Great guide, but you need to put some thermal paste on that copper insert before installing it into the heatsink. Without thermal paste there will be a huge loss of efficiency in the heat transfer between fhe hot end and the heatsink. This will lead to poor cooling control, and the risk of melting fillament before it enters the heating zone of the hot end. This can cause retraction issues, especially in softer fillaments.
Would you recommend it over a bambu lab machine? I have considered them or a voron 2.4. What should I do. I already have two ender 3 pros. Great video have a great day!
K1 can be had on sale as low as $350. I have 100+ hours fault free, couldn't be happier. I am still interested in Bambu's offerings, but I hear they may pack some of the new A1 tech into the P1, so I'll likely wait for a model refresh.
i just finished dissasembling the hotend and man that glue on the connectors are a huge pain! I have the flowtech in the main right now. wish they had a hardend steel nozzle will need to avoid CF and glow in the dark filaments till they release one. or until triagle labs or someone else makes a compatible nozzle.
Honstely the lidar is a waste of hotend space. you might at well remove it as it doesn't do anything yet unless you print from creatlity cloud
Be careful with glued plugs you can pull them off the board
Next up: changing long-threaded nozzles with power tools 😅 Is that like SuperVolcano length?
Lmao. This is not quite that long but yeah the super volcano may need a power tool 😂
I hate to see every 3D printer manufacturer making their own high flow nozzles for the new faster Klipper printers. Proprietary nozzle designs are not in the customer's best interest. Even worse, many companies offer only a brass 0.4 mm nozzle, even on their larger Max machines where a 0.6 mm would be better for most applications. If the Micro-Swiss hotend allows use of a standard set of quality Micro-Swiss nozzles, that would be worth the upgrade.
Increase the extruder temperature - NO, Buy a new extruder for $65 - YES!
for the cost and complexity, that bump in flow is abysmal.
Every single 3D printing channel is releasing paid advertising for this „upgrade“ that is essentially not even a real upgrade and is just overpriced. I say it out loud: this product and their marketing strategy straight sucks
Micro Swiss has been making quality upgrades for printers for many many years. Creality launched this printer and already had 2-3 extruder revisions and a hotend revision due to issues.
If you want to chance it with the stock hardware thats fine. You may have no issues. Some have experienced leaks and clogs already. $65 for a hotend is mid ranged price wise and less than most others.
If you are happy with the stock hotend thats great, but many would rather not chance it. The design on this setup removes the possibility of a heatbreak leak.
@@ModBotArmy Honestly, I‘d have that opinion too, if I was paid whatever they pay you for a review (I estimate a 4 to 5 figure amount). From our point of view, it’s just a part, that replaces another working part for no tangible reason. I‘m not mad at you for making a profit (in fact I support that!), I just feel like most 3d printing related channels are evolving into shills, because it pays best. That’s quite the opposite of what the 3d printing community should stand for.
I wish it was anywhere close to that amount. I have always pride myself on transparency with my audience. Any review I do covers good and bad. In some cases I look hard to find things to nitpick at because perfect does exist. This is not a review, it is an install video intended to help someone who purchases this hotend. Because of all this shill calling I am seeing more and more creators lean into it. In a sense I can understand it. If you are going to do your best to be fair and cover both sides but still be called a shill there is no winning. I have gotten this far by doing what I feel is right and trying to be as transparent as possible. The goal has always been to help others be it a tutorial or just sharing my experience. Largely I feel that is what we are doing and what I plan to continue doing. @@maximilianlindner
Cold nozzle swap. Worth it for that alone.
@@ModBotArmy Some people just don't understand the mod life! I guess he also hasn't had nightmares occur with hot swapping 😅 I personally thank you for this video, sponsored or not they trusted you with their product, you need to make money and we need good Intel from a reliable source. I don't get why everyone thinks everyone should just do these things for free but here we are! Thank you, and please any mods you test out that make the k1/k1 max let us know!
$65 for +3 mm3/s? Pfff...
The flow is just a bonus. The removal of leaks and ease of changing is what you are paying for. It’s a higher quality hotend.
Creality printers are disappointing, they just need lots of tweaks and upgrades, and this really sucks! I own Prusa MK3 and Bambu Lab A10 and the K1 Max is the one that asks constantly for my attention. This is just disappointing! Not to mention the money you constantly spend to upgrade
64$ not justified
Copper(!) thermal adaptor combined with aluminium (!) heatsink makes the worst possible galvanic pair which leads to further corrosion and decrease of effectiveness of heat transferring. Nice design choice, dumnuts.
My understanding would be that this only applies when current is present and would be accelerated in the presence of moisture. There would be no need for a zinc separation barrier between the dissimilar metals under normal heat cycling, as this application does not have any voltage passing through it. The only issues that might arise would be from the difference in expansion rates, but that seems unlikely with the miniscule rates of size/temp/cooling for this application.
@@notedmastrmind difference in electrochemical potential is a source of current. I may be wrong about the temperature though.