A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO POLY SURFBOARD REPAIRS.
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- A small crack in your board is the perfect way to gain some skills in surfboard repairs without spending a fortune on things you really don't need and with little to no risk of doing long term damage to your board if things don't go as planned. Follow along to achieve a strong and tidy looking repair.
NOTE: IF YOUR BOARD IS EPS OR EPOXY, DO NOT USE POLY RESIN ON IT. --------------------------------------------
If you wanna check out memberships there is a ''join'' button on my channel or you can click this ere link - / @smallkinedings
Once you sign up, you'll wanna join this super secret members only facebook page - / 966305518417568
You'll get first look at new videos before they go public and we can go over your own repairs through that page as well.
There are always members only videos being posted up on youtube too which only you members will have access to.
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This is fantastic. I came here as a recommendation from your comment. It makes sense after watching this video, thanks so much. I'm getting some of this waxed resin for my next job. I wish i had found this before, my sandpaper disks are hating me for sanding laminating resin.
Glad to be of service! A little hack in the meantime until you can get your wax additive or sanding resin. Cover the resin you've already poured in masking tape. Real tight and real flat, to prevent the air reaching it. You might have to leave it on overnight as it's not a full proof solution but it should make what you've already poured a bit easier to sand in the meantime!
That was a great instruction vid, thanks for sharing
My pleasure!
First of all, I want to thank you for all the videos. Thanks to you, I learned how to repair my epoxy windsurf boards, and they are in very good condition. Secondly, I wanted to ask you: to repair the foam of a polyester board, do you also use expandable polyurethane?
My absolute pleasure, so glad to hear it’s been of help! Yup! So polyester is the resin and polyurethane is the foam type so you can use the expanding polyurethane (PU) in it as it’s the same material. Safe on both PU foam and EPS (expanded polystyrene).
New video is uploading as we speak! 🤙
Great video, thanks mate!
my pleasure! Glad you enjoyed!
Hey brother! absolutely outstanding videos, each and every time.. congrats! seriously, probably watched every ding repair video out there and none are clear and informational as yours:)
been goofing around with repairs for a while but the past year or so been trying to boost up my game- and would love your advice on what seems to be my Achilles heel-
I seem to have all steps pretty much nailed (although much more experience is required of course), all the way to the step where i have poured my hot coat and left with that nice shiny rectangle when its cured. Here, i seem to keep running into trouble- and no matter how carful and delicate i try to be, many times i end up with blemish/some visible marks where the outline edges where..
Watching a few of your vids, I would love if you could clarify the method you use to approach the hot coat sanding- do you first hit the harder edges (outline) with 120, and then go over the whole thing with 220, 300 etc- or do you first go over it all with 220, 300 etc until the edges eventually disappear? And, is there a difference if your doing poly/epoxy?
Also I tend to think part of the problem is in my sander- im using a single speed, 1200 rpm random orbital sander (with and without a velcrow softpad)- and in my mind a variable speed sander would make a difference here too- what do you think??
Thanx so much in advance and please keep up the great work!!!
Hey man, really appreciate the feedback and stoked you are stoked! I filmed some stuff today to try and help answer your questions when it comes to sanding as the answer in text might end up being a book!
The number one tip id say on text though is treat your sander like a planer when it comes to those edges. You wouldn't run a planer across that edge from high to low, you would go from end to end of the edge with your planer, half on the high (your new resin) and half on the low (the original glass of the board). This will help prevent over sanding the glass surrounding your repair. I normally start my final sands with 240 too, it allows me to remove all of my previous 120 scratches while gently sanding the repair to shape.
I will definitely try and get a video out this week though and we'll have a chat about final sanding techniques as you certainly aren't the only person to have asked about it!
@@smallkinedings thanx so much for responding, sounds fantastic!! can't wait for the new vids..:) will put into practice ASAP- great analogy with the planer, makes lots of sense. seriously bro super appreciated, keep it up and i am sure the sky is the limit for you!!
@@YonaMyers there's a new video for ya, hope it answers some questions!
bro, speechless..!! this video is EXACTLY what i was looking for, the ultimate instructional.. have gone through this topic endless times in my mind but never got this clear of an explanation! feeling reencouraged and cant wait to start putting things into practice. bless ya mate! staying tuned for the next episodes:) @@smallkinedings
@@YonaMyers unreal, stoked it makes sense and hope you can put it into practice!
Thanks for the video! It’s a little tough to tell but it seemed like the ding wasn’t deep enough to have damaged or compressed the foam. Would there be any issue if you had just went straight to glassing after the initial sand? Thanks again!
Certainly not a lot of foam damage. You need the pre fill of resin in order to give you your shape and a smooth surface to glass. Trying to glass straight over an uneven surface will result in brittle airbubbles which will fail pretty quickly, thats if you don't sand through then at the end and have to start again anyway
Thanks mate that is so helpful!! I want to start getting into board repair for my own boards.
What is the actual product name of those products? Like the waxing and sanding resin? And do you just get those from a normal hardware store?
Cheers!
Hey hey, my pleasure!
So the resin is a surboard specific Poly. The thing that turns laminating resin into sanding resin is called either ''waxed styrene'' or ''wax additive. You catalyst is called MEKP.
It's unlikely you'll find all of these at a hardware store. Better off looking for a specific resin/fibreglass specialist 🤙
dude, been thinking about filler. for a deep repair to replace foam, it makes sense. For a crease/buckle, not really, why not just begin laminating glass to the foam with enough layers to bring it up to surface?
if u apply a filler as I did, that is not really the way the board was built. So you get a layer of resin which is like a chunk between foam & cloth.
You could do that but your cloth would also end up as a chunk just as your filler and a layered chunk prone to air bubbles and delam at that. Foam is the better option if you’re going to pre fill something. You can always make it deeper too, to allow yourself a deeper/cleaner pour of foam as it is difficult to pour foam in a shallow area
HI,
i have a starter kit epoxy repair kit but it only has the plastic bubles and one kind of epoxy resin. how should i repair a big ding in the midle of the board.
plastic bubles, pour the epoxy resin with 2 cloth and sand. or should i get another epoxy that stays sticky for the next pour.
its the Ding All Epoxy repair kit super ultra clear
Gday partner,
So epoxy is a different beast. Epoxy won't remain tacky, it will cure dry and firm so it requires sanding after each step.
By plastic bubbles, do you mean micro balloons (like a white powder)?
@@smallkinedings yes the micro balloons. Thanks for your response !
I know what I want to ask. This crease was on
both sides of stringer. I have scuffed the area across the stringer, didn’t really want to take it down very far.
You don’t want to sand through to stringer, right?
That depends if the stringer is broken or not. If the stringer is damaged, especially on both sides you probably want to reinforce it. If it's not then yea, no need, just glass um!
Depending how the board was finished will depend if you need to expose the stringer in order to check for damage
@@smallkinedingsthx, stringer is fine & crease is about an inch away each side. Sanded by hand, cool to. see crease disappear. On other side of board had a straight crack, used a sander without a pad to get it down, also the 8 hole style, which I think grabbed glass and made the repair area a lil larger than I expected. So that’s my takeaway those pads might be okay lighter grit on sanding resin. Otherwise no hole discs, better. Working with what I had, not in a rush either.
more good stuff bro!
Shot bro!
What kind of soft pad are you using?
There's no brand name unfortunately but it's called a "soft foam interface pad". Should help you with your search 🤙
hey there, it got a little messy with filler stage, on my hands & getting it off the board around repair area didn’t get it all. Tip, just a matter of going through some sandpaper? Needs to be smooth before I lay cloth on it & laminate, right? Otherwise I’d be sanding off the fiberglass before I reach these bumps & basically sanding off part of my repair.
As long as you didn’t get any in your arm pit, you’re doing alright! Yea, your surface needs to be “flat” and even before glassing so as not to get air trapped beneath your cloth 🤙
@@smallkinedingsok, so of course in hindsight I could have worked to get resin off surrounding area before it cured. Is it now a matter of going through a lot of sandpaper to clean up, smooth out? Or do I mix a small batch of sanding res, would that help take it all down?
@@crypttonite if you did your filling in laminating resin then yea, brush s9me sanding resin over it and give everything a sand, including your spillage. The filling should have been dine with sanding resin though so you can shape it and prep it for cloth so either way, sanding stage comes next before lamination. Sand with 120 and it shouldn't take too long
@@smallkinedingscool appreciate it. I was going by joe roper’s repair. It’s possible his filler was a sand res, don’t think so. Will give them a call on it tho. He shaped it with the mixing stick & layed cloth on top, no sanding before laminating the cloth.
I could have started with the smaller fix to get a feel for materials.
Was off n running w an ounce of res mixed up.
Needed to keep it tidier, less res on tool, wipe tool off, be wearing something to wipe hands on.
Realizing it’s like baking or making mashed potatoes. Fun. More gratifying getting right, like hand sanding the crease away was great.
This video great too. Watching it multiple times to get the hang of all those tips.
Hi. Thanks for your video, really usefull.
Just to know how much do you sand for the prep? Only a few to allow the strat to hold ? the glass coat? or into the strat?
I am always confused to do it as flat as possible
And to blend it nicely..
Gday buddy,
Sorry I never saw your message. Essentially the shine is your guide. If you imagine that your paint and or resin won't stick to any shiny patch, so just sand until it's dull and there is no reflection of light
hi how to fix a twisted board
Straps, weights and time. Not easily done
Why do you use clear resin and choose not to use Q-cell in the mix? Because of the size of the ding? And I know you use foam for deep dings but in which case would you choose to use Q-cell for a repair? Thanks!
Purely for looks in this case. If the board is resin tinted, clear is going to look better than a white spot. If the ding is deep or large enough that weight will be a factor, then foam needs to be added. I only use qcell to skim replaced foam or if this board in the video was white I might use qcell in that case with this kind of repair
when creating a filler with cab o sil, if mixed with a lam res it won’t be sandable either unless a surfacing agent is added, right? So filler should be mixed with a sanding resin?
& by kick, do you mean the lam res is dry? but it remains tacky as you mention earlier.
I use laminating resin with my microballoons, no need to add a surfacing agent.
If I'm saying kicked in reference to the cloth I put over the repair then yes, it will be sticky still waiting for a resin coat.
@@smallkinedings thx, supplies I went with are uv lam res & a surfacing agent & cab o sil, also milled fibers. Anywho my repairs are a crease, crack on rail nearby, not sure if they occurred together.hand sanded it out, took a minute. I don’t have a backing pad. Getting one for sanding the patches & sand res.
A small crack that doesn’t catch an edge, sand res over for seal?
Having trouble with my " sanding resin" not kicking on the rails or underside of rail. Do you always have to stop in the middle of the rail and let cure, then flip and do the other side? Or maybe my sanding resin is not mixed properly ( purchased already mixed)
Sets but remains tacky. Flat surfaces seem to cure fine
O, that's odd. The reason I mask to halfway ish on the rail is so you're not losing resin and having to sand out drips due to gravity. Perhaps gravity is not allowing your wax to sit evenly on the surface of the resin, though I've never had this issue myself.
The only other thing that springs to mind is, are you doing a repair or building a board? If it's a repair, make sure that the board isn't epoxy resin over a PU blank (PE construction). I have had a couple of them that were not labeled as PE on the board and the poly resin could not cure properly over the epoxy, remaining sticky and with a bumpy texture on the surface.
Thanks for the reply,
It is odd and seems like the gravity issue because deck or bottom dings seem to dry normal.
I think I will try mixing my own sanding resin. Could be a new video idea?
Thanks, gonna subscribe and figure out this issue
do u re use chip brushes? does acetone soak work?
Hey hey, nah I don't re use them. I just try and coat multiple boards all together with one brush. Most guys who clean brushes have 3 pots of acetone. The first is to wash the brush in, this becomes dirty quickly, the second is to rinse in and the third is to keep the brush in until its next use. When your first pot is to gunky to use anymore it gets cleaned out and becomes your third pot with fresh acetone. What was the second pot now becomes your first and what was your third becomes your second. Hope that makes sense!!
@@smallkinedings ya, guess they are considered single use, still was thinking of how to get more use or yes, not go through a brush for a little patch. I see you used a stick & poured resin.
There’s a video with guy and acetone buckets. You are either using one item or the other, going through acetone to not waste brushes.
thx
@@crypttonite definitely a trade off. I go through a lot of brushes but I barely ever have to use acetone. Most guys who are re using brushes are using $100+ brushes for gloss coating new boards so those ones are well worth saving. I know a laminator up these ways who's had the same brush for over 10 years!
@@smallkinedingsseems a lil better to use less acetone, for the throw away brush.
you make the job look pretty smooth. I see where the 220 grit removed the 120 scratches. Then you jumped to 3 something & 3 wet. Is this going to remove all scuffs not related to the specific repair? Or do you have to hit each area with some 120/100 & work up?
Thinking this board should get an all over hot coat, may as well.
Think I will try to use brushes for sanding/hot coats.
Brooo Ive been wondering about sanding resin for so long, every time i google it it comes up with how to sand resin haha. Ive seen some resins called Gelcoat, is this the pre made sanding resin. Im from NZ too, you got any recommendations for wax additive?
Yea, can be tricky to find that info! I even had to educate chat GPT on the difference between sanding and laminating resins 😂 😂
Anyone who sells poly resin should have wax additive for you. Much like the catalysts, in my experience they're all the same stuff so no better brands than the others.
Gel goat is more for boats, trailers, caravans etc. It's a really thick poly resin that's usually white and it cures kinda like a hard rubber (or gel). It's good for boats because it has a little bit of give in it for when your boats tapping against a wharf or something but it's very thick and therefore heavy so not so great for surfboards
so in this vid your sanding resin is microballoons & they r a wax additive
Yea so I'm using a sanding resin instead of micro balloons. Sanding resin by definition has wax additive in it, otherwise it's a laminating resin. If I were using micro balloons, it's not necessary to add wax additive to the mix
@@smallkinedingsgotcha, i get it now. v good video
my filler definitely no longer tacky,
maybe go with added layer of glass in spots vs adding more filler resin.
for a small circle on deck, would it be okay to do as you did on the rail filling it in & sanding off excess, then laminate over that?
actually u answered that previously