Thanks for a great video. I just made myself a crosscut sled from some scrap plywood and had much better results than my first attempt at a tenon where I hogged out the excess sideways.
Thank you , good demo. I would love to be able to use dado blades , but unfortunately they are banned in Europe. We really are in the Nanny State , and it's a nightmare ! ! !
can a sliding compounding mitre saw be used (with a depth stop) to cut out the mortise in a 4inch square beam 1.5m long ? i need to make an accurate cross joint in two timbers, 90deg to eachother. if so, which sliding mitre saw and which blade is best ?
The position of the toggle clamp on this jig makes me queasy. Not sure it is the best recommendation to use that with your hand a couple of inches above a running blade as it would be quite easy for your hand to slip off.
Right! Pushing on a handle that snaps into place, with the running blade in the same direction you're pushing -- little more than an inch away? Super dangerous.
I have had very little luck cutting precise tenons or tongues with a dado set. I simply struggle to precisely set the depth, and I'm not sure my jobsite saw which lacks a depth lock of any kind doesn't walk itself down under the weight/vibration/stock pressure of the dado stack. Also, my fence leans slightly toward the blade, so the shoulders won't line up correctly if the stock isn't square. The solution to this is to use the narrow extension, or to use a stop on the miter gauge/sled instead.
I used the dado method for my tenons. However the shoulder come out uneven. One is longer than the other. I've checked my miter and fence for square. Still have the problem. Any idea as to the problem?
Not sure about what exact toggle clamp Chris used here. Here is a link to our toggle clamps though - www.rockler.com/hand-tools/clamps/toggle-clamps - Thanks!
Chris, I had always been warned: never use both the miter gauge and rip fence to make a cut on the table saw. Is this really okay to do for cutting tenons?
Love everything about this video but when adjusting the piece for the next cut stop the saw. Seems silly but when you’re reclamping the wood you’re too close to the spinning blade. Humble suggestion
It is not the most difficult cuts being made on a table saw but the most common, seemingly easy cuts where safety falls apart. The first rule of safety in a shop begins with a GOOD first aid kit on hand... The only 100% safe use of a table saw is to lower the blade below the table and pull the plug out of the wall...So lets get a little real here..Crap happens and no one is exempt.
When making through cuts, yes. But in this process there are no pieces are being removed from the stock, so there is no chance of them being caught between the blade and fence. You will see at 3:51 into the video when the pieces are fully removed, they are released freely to the left of the blade.
Link to your video trying to help people please. You think it's more common to cut tenons on an 8ft piece than an 18" piece? I would argue showing tenons on the 8ft piece is a "useless demonstration".
This guy is so professional, patient and precise. One of my favorites to learn from, a really good teacher.
thank you for your excellent teaching. No hype, no music, no machine noise = perfect.
I second that. The absence of music is a blessing.
Very good and detailed video for tenons!
Thanks for a great video. I just made myself a crosscut sled from some scrap plywood and had much better results than my first attempt at a tenon where I hogged out the excess sideways.
This video helped give me the confidence I needed prior to making tenon cuts. Thanks friend
Such a well structured video. Thanks for your efforts and the lesson 👍🏼
Thanks for watching! 🙌
Very good demonstration.
what about the mortises?
Thank you , good demo. I would love to be able to use dado blades , but unfortunately they are banned in Europe. We really are in the Nanny State , and it's a nightmare ! ! !
Thanks i just learned this today.
Thanks for watching!
can a sliding compounding mitre saw be used (with a depth stop) to cut out the mortise in a 4inch square beam 1.5m long ? i need to make an accurate cross joint in two timbers, 90deg to eachother. if so, which sliding mitre saw and which blade is best ?
The position of the toggle clamp on this jig makes me queasy. Not sure it is the best recommendation to use that with your hand a couple of inches above a running blade as it would be quite easy for your hand to slip off.
Saw that too. I definitely would have turned off the saw before adjusting the work piece.
Right! Pushing on a handle that snaps into place, with the running blade in the same direction you're pushing -- little more than an inch away? Super dangerous.
I have had very little luck cutting precise tenons or tongues with a dado set. I simply struggle to precisely set the depth, and I'm not sure my jobsite saw which lacks a depth lock of any kind doesn't walk itself down under the weight/vibration/stock pressure of the dado stack.
Also, my fence leans slightly toward the blade, so the shoulders won't line up correctly if the stock isn't square. The solution to this is to use the narrow extension, or to use a stop on the miter gauge/sled instead.
I used the dado method for my tenons. However the shoulder come out uneven. One is longer than the other. I've checked my miter and fence for square. Still have the problem. Any idea as to the problem?
Possible the wood is slipping along the fence when cutting. Maybe add some sandpaper strips on the fence to prevent from slipping.
Good idea. Thanks
Well done! Very helpful. Thanks
amazing
🙌
great video, thanks!
I know this video is old in 2024, but I’m wondering if I could get a part number/source for that large toggle clamp on the homemade jig. Thanks!
Not sure about what exact toggle clamp Chris used here. Here is a link to our toggle clamps though - www.rockler.com/hand-tools/clamps/toggle-clamps - Thanks!
Isn't against the safety rules to use the rip fence as a guide when cross cutting?
If you're making a through cut, yes. If not cutting all the way through the piece, as here, then it's perfectly fine.
Kevin Vernon thanks for the explanation!
The rip fence can be used, but will required more care with blade set-up.
This guy explains things very well. What's his name? Does he have his own channel?
Super!
🙌
thank you
Chris, I had always been warned: never use both the miter gauge and rip fence to make a cut on the table saw. Is this really okay to do for cutting tenons?
The only exception to that rule is when a cut is not through like here. Then it's okay to use both the miter gauge and the rip fence together.
@@kryptik0 Thanks! I learned something here.
Love everything about this video but when adjusting the piece for the next cut stop the saw. Seems silly but when you’re reclamping the wood you’re too close to the spinning blade. Humble suggestion
Great point!
It is not the most difficult cuts being made on a table saw but the most common, seemingly easy cuts where safety falls apart.
The first rule of safety in a shop begins with a GOOD first aid kit on hand... The only 100% safe use of a table saw is to lower the blade below the table and pull the plug out of the wall...So lets get a little real here..Crap happens and no one is exempt.
oops. you're not supposed to use a miter and a fence at the same time
When making through cuts, yes. But in this process there are no pieces are being removed from the stock, so there is no chance of them being caught between the blade and fence. You will see at 3:51 into the video when the pieces are fully removed, they are released freely to the left of the blade.
This is useless demonstrating tenons on an 18 inch board. People need to make them on 8 foot board ends- try showing how to do that.
it's really no different.
Link to your video trying to help people please. You think it's more common to cut tenons on an 8ft piece than an 18" piece? I would argue showing tenons on the 8ft piece is a "useless demonstration".
Go to 14:10 in this video for a tutorial on cutting tenons in long pieces. ua-cam.com/video/6Zd0VPqGIY0/v-deo.html