Forging Square Corners with Becky Schimpff: National Curriculum Level II

What's necessary in forging the frame of the Level II Grille? The ability to forge square corners! Follow along as National Curriculum Instructor Becky Schimpff covers the ins and outs of forging square corners. Errors and troubleshooting are also covered.
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[@JGilbertMetal]

Regarding your question at 34:17 using an oxy acetylene torch I've found that I can get pretty precise heat that often doesn't require quenching. However you won't get quite the same "sharp" line between heated and non heated parts of the bar as one does with quenching a part heated up in the forge. It is also a bit more difficult to get the entire bar heated up evenly particularly with larger stock, since the torch can only heat from one side at a time. With a little practice and planning, I've found I can get wonderful speed and accuracy when using both methods in tandem. Less downtime waiting for the forge.

[@peterengelbert1006]

Well done Becky! So few discuss post-bend upset. It makes more sense to me. Thanks again for the lecture, :)

[@Klavno]

Great vid and inspiring. Thanks. I'd like to add a few ideas. I learned these from Francis Whitaker, so He gets full credit.
Using a forge or using a torch isn't mutually exclusive. Use them both. My first bend is done out of the forge and with both bending forks and scrolling wrench in the vice. Then the torch becomes a localized heat where needed. Minimize the length of your initial heat, but don't dwell on it. It will cool down quickly and not be a problem so Its not critical. My bending forks and scrolling wrench are done as a set and are made"just a little bigger" than dimension. Think a bakers pinch of salt bigger. Lets use half square. So the forks are just a little more than half. This means that you can make your initial bend as tight as possible and this means less work.
Layout: put your center punch mark on the inside surface, not the top or bottom. Its easy to see and will disappear when done. And its just right on the money when its dead center in the bend all the time. I always forge my right angle bends to dimension. Its great layout and is actually much faster. And no chalk marks on the anvil are needed. For example, we are using half square. Mark your center as above. No choose an arbitrary length, say 4". Add half the thickness to both sides of your center punch mark and make a mark(center punch, scribe, file mark) 4-1/4" each side of center. Done. I use a 6' metal folding ruler and it lives in my back pocket. An easy reach and a quick measure on both legs to see where my upset is. No disappearing chalk or trips to the measurement on the anvil. Massive heat saving deal.
Forging: Most important is whilst doing your upsetting lay your work on your anvil and set your thickness to 1/2". Part of your upset will go where needed, but a substantial amount will be lost back to length. Let it go proud until your measured length hits 4" and the outside edge is approaching an edge, not rounded. Now go to the face of the anvil and use your cross peen to move that upset wild material to the far edge. Following the formula(add half the thickness to each side of the center punch), you will need every bit for a good upset right angle bend!
With these additions, you should, with due diligence, torch and forge be able to make these in 3 heats. When you are hot 2-3 and comfortably 3-5 heats. When you get to this point, its an economically viable detail.
Thanks, hope this is appropriate.

[@Klavno]

Typo correct under forging: Most important is do not lay your work on the face of your anvil anf forge to 1/2" thick! Sorry about that

[@owenjmolloy]

Hello & Love, from Dublin Ireland.
X

[@ForgingAheadArtisanBlacksmith]

If I am making just 1 square corner on a bar I prefer doing it on the anvil, that being said I see now that if I need 2 or more square corners on the same bar the vise technique is invaluable. What I haven't done yet is the pre-upset square corner, I haven't had need for the strength but I do like the aesthetics of it. I have done square corners in both Acetylene and Induction heater, both are the best options for square corners because of the isolation's you get in the heat, with that in mind you still need to quench because you heat soaks up into the metal with time and each additional heat. On my channel I show a square corner where I use the induction heater to isolate the heat it is my favorite option tho I understand most will not have this option available to I do recommend the Acetylene torch. Thank you for explaining the way to measure the stock to keep the corner where you need it.

[@marioamor5982]

What is the right steel for this project?