The video I wish I watched before buying a SHELIX

[@TheSnekkerShow]

After numerous questions and comments about amperage measurements and circuit breakers, I decided to disassemble the original circuit breaker from this planer and overload it with twice the rated amperage: ua-cam.com/video/24f-J0lVo-E/v-deo.html. Thanks for keeping me on my toes and challenging anything that doesn't sound right, it makes this channel a lot more interesting for all of us.
Fun fact: This video resulted in Byrd Tool Experts (a distributor of Byrd Tool Corp products) contacting me for an interview, which you can see here: byrdtoolexperts.com/the-snekker-show-interview
If you're looking for an installation video, your search is over: ua-cam.com/video/8J0rvBi8a0k/v-deo.html

[@Ritalie]

Sorry for being late to the party. So to clarify, are you certain that the amperage was 27 amps? and 31 amps for the different cutters?
Okay, I just found the video where you clarify and prove the amperage draw very clearly here: ua-cam.com/video/24f-J0lVo-E/v-deo.html at 21:00 minutes.
There is a tremendous load on a tool that has to remove that much material, versus a tiny 3/32" wide saw blade. I measured my Grizzly 1 1/2 horsepower, 17 amp, 120 volt table saw motor. The measured current was only 10 amps with no load on it.
This explains why I was able to use my table saw for hours at at time on really old knob and tube wiring in my old farm shop. The rating on the motor is obviously the "full load" current. My mind is blown, that a planer can draw 30 amps and be rated for 15 amps full load current.

[@richardseifried7574]

I bought a Shelix cutter head but haven't installed it yet. Do you know what is the torque spec for those little carbide knives?

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@@richardseifried7574 Covered at around 27 minutes into this video: ua-cam.com/video/8J0rvBi8a0k/v-deo.html

[@codacreator6162]

I’ll probably never install a Shelix in my DeWalt planer, but I learned a ton that I didn’t know about my planer just by watching. Thank you!

[@drboze6781]

8:15 - "Some people find that to be a huge pain in the neck." As a retired machinist, I laughed at this. I've routinely rotated inserts on facemills, some had up to 20 inserts. It only takes a few seconds for each one. Facemills, endmills, drills, etc. You just do it and get on with the job.

[@griffincouture7486]

As a Machinist by day and Furniture carpenter by night, this also made me laugh!

[@das250250]

Thumbs up because you invested in the video by buying two units ..got to admire anybody who puts skin in the game

[@bobcat3905]

Spiral cutters are a nice upgrade and offer a smoother cut, but are also known to require a little more power vs the three blade cutters due to the space in between the 3 blades allows for free spin on the cutter head whereas the spiral cutter blades are constantly engaged in the material thus requiring an added amount of draw on the Amps.

[@andrewouimette5389]

It's the same reason PWM (pulse width modulated) circuits draw less power. It's very fast on/off/on/off. Which is essentially what you get with the OEM knives.

[@JustinMurray170fin]

This guy is no stranger to logical reasoning
Oh, man do I ❤ his humour: "If I wanna run a ham sandwich through one of these, I'm gonna do that." 🤣
Great video - appreciate your diligence - Kudos.

[@diannadearborn1117]

As a retired test engineer I appreciate the thoughtfulness and thoroughness of your tests. Concerning the difference in amperage readings between the newer DW735 with the three blades vs. the elder with the Shelix heads: The difference might not all be in the type of heads betwixt the two machines.
Simply, the age disparity between the two machines might make up much of the differences in current draw per task. Bearing wear and tear, for one factor, might introduce enuf friction to cause much of the increased current required to do the same task as the newer machine. It would be most appropriate to compare the differences between the two heads (using your same methodology) on the same machine... either machine will do. That is to say: Either put the original cutter knives on the older machine and rerun the tests--OR--put the Shelix head into the newer machine and repeat.
This procedure ensures that there is only one variable in play between the A-B testing... only the cutter heads are different.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

This has been brought up a few times, and I haven't tested it yet, but I doubt that three years of hobby use would cause enough wear on the motor or bearings to account for such a large difference in power draw. Having said that, I've been wrong before, and I'm sure I'll be wrong again. If I ever switch back to the OEM knives, I'll try to remember to take some before and after measurements.

[@genebruce6321]

If the bearings caused that much extra draw, they would get pretty hot pretty quickly.

[@JonDunnmusician]

Well thought out

[@zokraft]

@@genebruce6321 the table might not be as smooth as in a new machine. Drive belts state and tension can also have something to do with power consumption.

[@cuebj]

In addition to comments already made, DeWalt might use a better quality motor. Who knows what component parts they source based on what's available at any time?

[@molhuwmartins9723]

We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.

[@philkipnis740]

Thank you for that important information. I'm planning on working in hardwoods. Currently I work in redwood mostly

[@JonDunnmusician]

Thank you for the update my planer just past a year in retrospect, beyond warranty- upon having it repaired the high-end technician recommended never getting the Shelix head due to the high heat created beside the plastic parts in the DeWalt planer- you're far far better to invest in a commercial planer using consistently @higher level

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@JonDunnmusician The planer has a thermal breaker in the front, which should shut down the motor before the heat levels get high enough to melt anything, regardless of cutterhead type.

[@cdawg9149]

Im more blown away at your testing than the actual planer differences

[@Thescribler]

i like this guy. he's doing some due diligence. respect.

[@GoodMorning-zh6le]

What really helps is how unusually comfortable this guys voice is lol, i went from- "wow 40+ min vid.." to" 👀.. oh its almost over.." 😂

[@ideaguyinks]

I have to say this is the most well thought out video I've watched in a long time. You paid attention to volume (most don't) and your process was spot on when comparing both units. I wish everyone could learn from you how to make a good informative video. Thanks for your time.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

I give your comment five stars, Mr. Critique. Don't watch my older stuff.

[@MrLonstar]

100% agree.
When I read I title, I thought - typical UA-cam click bait.
Then I saw it was 45 mins long. Thought - this could go either way.
Extremely good video. Explained what needed to be explained, could skip through what was blah blah to me, but all the way through it was informative and stayed on point. Thank you.
Extremely surprised on the amp draw. For me, it was jaw dropping. I'm in the process of refurbishing an older 12" jointer and swapped out the 4.5HP 3 phase motor for a Baldor 5HP single phase (230V). It's rated at 20 amps but planned on running 10 gauge wire for the outlet. Eventually the outlet will also power a [220v~240v] planer. After seeing this I think I'll go with 8 gauge from panel to outlet.

[@HoroRH]

Wow. This was the most comprehensive and analytical review of a home hobbiest product I’ve seen. Thx very much for an excellent vid.

[@advancednutritioninc908]

One more reason why the current is higher on the Shelix - is that there is overlap between the cutter head squares so as to not leave a line between them. So in effect you have more inches of knife edge hitting your board on each pass thus increasing the friction as the cutters pass across the board. Friction = Power draw! Based on everything you have said and what I understand I would still vote for the shelix every time! The sheer reduction of cutter head replacement and hassle it worth it! Thanks for the video! liked !!

[@trevorlambert4226]

The amount that overlaps will still only get cut once, despite being passed over by two different cutters. There might be a tiny amount of friction that the second cutter imparts as it grazes it, but I think that would be a negligible contribution to the current draw.

[@advancednutritioninc908]

@@trevorlambert4226 so you admit it would be a LITTLE more current. I am interested in your explanation for the additional current?

[@jeremymyers5643]

@@advancednutritioninc908 the surface area of the wood being cut is a fixed dimension,shouldn't matter if there is overlap in cutters as far as load is concerned.

[@advancednutritioninc908]

@@jeremymyers5643 You could be right, but I was thinking there could be more cutter area rubbing the wood if there was significant overlap. More friction, more drag, more motor current.

[@bartosullivan8050]

I think I purchased mine back in 08 and it still works well for my needs. I don't use it often, but I've run everything from Walnut to African Mahogany to Purple Heart, and even Ipe. It's a slow process, but the machine works. If I were to offer anyone advise it would be to take your time and enjoy the process. This thing is anything but fast. I run with the OEM Blades and trash them when they're done. Before this planer I had a 22,000 lb Oliver Stratoplane, that's a different story. I enjoyed your comparison. Extremely well done! Thank you.

[@sr5doug]

Years ago when I made roll top desks and other furniture for a living I had the pleasure of using a 52” planer with a whisper cut head which is real similar to the shelix. It was real quiet and very aggressive w no tear out. Could take off 1/2” at a time on 12” poplar.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Wow, I bet the lights in the surrounding neighborhood dimmed when you turned that on.

[@retiredusmc9090]

This is the most informative perspective on the Dewalt 735 planer I have seen yet. Thank you for being so thorough and covering info that most just overlook.

[@1S4Per]

Thanks for doing this video. I upgraded to a similar head (Lux), that's essentially the same as the Shelix. The end result is a much better finish, and the planer seems to have an easier time planing all boards vs the stock head. I don't doubt that the upgraded one takes more power, but while on my stock head I routinely blew a breaker, I haven't done so with this one yet. Expensive, but truly a great upgrade for the shop. Planing is now more of a pleasure vs nail biting anxiety time ;)

[@HoroRH]

Yes, it’s simply not intuitive to me that a cutter that more evenly distributes the load to the motor would ever draw more current than a cutter that essentially pulses the loading. The louder sound of the straight cutters should have been indicative enough. As a final test, because the results were not intuitive (and he actually seemed to make that point), I think he should/could have switched the cutters between the two machines to remove the two base machines as a source of variance. Although the planers were the same model, it’s not to say that the 2020 model could not have had internal improvements to the drive or the motor, eg.

[@jerrys576]

Great info on the OEM & Undersized cutters. Totally SHOCKED at the amp draw. Glad I have a new 20 amp line in the shop.

[@fiveoboy01]

Any tool will draw excessive current if you overload it, which was the case here. A full turn of the height adjustment handle is generally too much for any hardwood. I do 1/4 turn increments and 1/2 turn at the most.

[@ThomasLips]

I really appreciate you making this video. It answered a lot of questions. I recently bought the dewalt as my 25 year old delta was getting tired... or maybe I was getting tired of it 😉
I solved the tear out problem years ago by buying a thickness sander. I go to the sander with my material .0625" thicker than finished dimensions and take .015" per pass.
As a small furniture maker the extra effort guarantees me a perfect product with no tear out.
I subscribed to your channel after watching this first video... well done!!!

[@MattMadeIt123]

Why I like the Shelix... Better chip extraction. The Shelix creates smaller chips than straight knives that are easier to extract. Easy and quick to change to a new cutting edge. But most importantly is the vastly improved cut quality over straight knives especially on woods with difficult grain.

[@richardlug6139]

And there is why he is drawing more amps from the Sheila head it is doing more cutting/revolution thus smaller chips.

[@DIYerGuy]

This is a very interesting video and comparison especially because I'm also an electronics engineer. As was previously mentioned, there are issues with the differences in age of the bearings, wear-and-tear, etc with the older planer. How much of a difference, or to what extent those differences would have a direct correlation to amperage draw is hard to say. Since one machine is from 2017 and the other from 2020 (I think that's what you said), there would obviously be differences between the two machines in terms of "burn-in", meaning that all mechanical aspects of the system are more or less "settled" (though of course, nothing in a mechanical system is ever permanently settled). Another consideration would be the possible differences in the motor efficiency between the older machine and the newer one: I doubt DeWalt would be willing to provide any quantitative numbers on either machine's motors in terms of efficiency based on their respective serial numbers (which could be traced directly back to a production run, etc). If the newer machine's motor (and other machines going forward) reflects a slight design improvement that increases its efficiency to do work, how would anyone know, except DeWalt perhaps. Also, there may be some unknown "minor improvement" in some other parts of the the system that could yield less stress on the motors and so produce less current draw. Too many unknown variables. Since your first machine has been in use, it's probably not a good test candidate to use as a DUT (Device Under Test) in a comparison because of the previously mentioned use/wear-tear issues. It would be more accurate to make a comparison between two of the same model machines, from the same manufacturing runs - if that's even possible, which I doubt - that are newly purchased together, and from the same vendor. But there could still be a question on the efficiency of the motors between two of the same machine, so purchasing two new machines is not a perfect solution, not to mention a costly one. It would be less costly to simply swap blades, i.e. put the stock blades from the newer machine into the old machine and see what the results produce, and visa-versa, put the helix blades into the newer machine and see what that produces then compare the results. Though this was not exactly a scientifically accurate comparison, I still think the comparison was revealing enough and was a very interesting video. Thank you for taking the time and effort to do this. And I hope you find use for the 2nd planer! By the way I am thinking of purchasing the very same DeWalt planner so not only was your video interesting and informative, I learned that there are after-market Helix blades (who knew!) and a bit about the internals of that planner as well ! I look forward to some of your other videos !

[@JackWagonOne]

You and these videos are the primary reason I bought a SHELIX cutter head for my still new in box 735X! Thank you.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thanks for the feedback. It's good to hear it was useful.

[@fastbackmopar7223]

I tested my old 12" Delta 22-540 which is a typical 15 amp planer.
Start up current was just under 14 amps, and the no load running current was 6.7 amps. I ran an old 4"x 6" Hickory beam through it for the test.
Under full load, taking a 1/16 cut off the beam, the planer was pulling just under 10 amps, as one would expect given the fact that it's a 15 amp unit.

[@martymachowski2239]

Great answer to which Shelix to buy - the down sized or the OEM. You explained the challenges with the undersized version perfectly. Thank You!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

You're quite welcome.

[@Greybeardmedic]

Can't wait to see you run a ham sandwich through the planer. Its like Sweeps Week for UA-cam, come up with the most outrageous content possible in order to draw in viewers. Ham Sandwich please!

[@wendellcarver9857]

Great Video tutorial. One way to determine actual pull or difference would be to measure the wood thickness before & after each cut to make sure they're cutting the exact same thickness. Just a consideration

[@marknasia5293]

I love it, i explain to my wife on a regular basis i could use two planers. She isn’t biting yet, but i am coming up with new and creative ideas to justify having a second one :) I am enjoying the channel and puns. Thanks for taking the time to do this comparison on a serious note. I am in SE Asia and it is challenging to get the parts to show up, not to mention the mark up. So this information is welcomed and yes the original TR was much better than the newer one, although I didn’t mind watching the second TR. Quaid start the reactor… is priceless.

[@captain757747]

I thought about getting a helix cutter for my dewalt p[laner. I asked a dewalt service center rep if it really was as good as they claim. this is what he said " if you put that cutter on your machine then you void the warranty.'. He invited me into the back and showed me about a half dozen machines with burnt out motors. This planer is not made to handle the extra load one of these cutters puts on it. He said' if you have a belt driven machine like a jointer or a large size planer that is not a problem'. I stay with the standard blades.

[@kenrobbins1927]

I've had the same experience as far as circuit load. However, it was simple to manage; I just take smaller cuts. It cuts so much nicer, especially on figured grain, that it's no contest. The Shelix wins hands down, every time.........

[@mrpotat680]

what limit were you able to pull off per pass, at least a 16th right?

[@makapalatrace8385]

You’ve got me thinking bout my future shop wiring as much as blades.

[@independent900]

Excellent video. I am not generally interested in power consumption comparisons, because they are mostly focused on running cost. I was losing interest until I realized how the consumption compared to my breakers. THEN this became seriously interesting. Even after reading the comments here, I'm still confused about why the breaker didn't trip. The sizing differences of the spiral head was hugely non-intuitive, and I'm so glad you shed light on it. Thank you.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

The video I linked in the description does a pretty good job of demonstrating, but the short version is that most breakers trip because of heat, not a number. 15 amps for 30 minutes could generate more heat in the breaker than 30 amps for 1 minute.

[@espressomatic]

@@TheSnekkerShow Heat, consumption, time, breaker specs (reaction time, (slow vs. fast) etc.) See link below for some graphs and dead-simple examples.

[@odnanrf1]

The dance moves are funny, good example/ demo with blades and power outage.. thanks for the learning experience and fun !! :)

[@s9plus20]

Here is an idea: With the Shelix head one (or more) of the cutters is constantly in the wood. There is no work relief between cuts. With the straight knives one (admittedly big) cutter is in the wood then you have no cutter in the wood for 1/3 of a rotation. During that rotation there is relief from some of the work load, the head can gain speed before going into the next contact.

[@sandroreis5593]

i think you nailed it

[@capti443]

Excellent discussion! Well conceived, organized, thorough, and intelligently delivered. I installed a Shelix head on my 8” jointer and had planned to upgrade my DeWalt planer next. I already decided to go with the OEM size head and you confirmed my decision. I was thinking about your discussion of the warranty matter and I think that you also need to consider the entire drive train of the cleaner that is under higher stress which results in the motor drawing higher amps. So there’s more than just the motor in the thermal overload breaker to be considered I think.Thanks!!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Good to hear, thanks for the feedback.

[@396fab]

Glad I stumbled on this. Very interesting. Confirmed my thought that planers with helix cutters should be spun on minimally 240v induction motors. Been on the fence about this same Dewalt or just overhauling my very very old currently not working Powermatic 5hp planer and this demo tipped the scale. So, rolling up my sleeves and getting to work on the old planer.
Great work and information! Thank you.

[@ron.v]

Anyone ever tell you that you have a very professional voice? It is easy to listen to and could deliver radio or TV ads with as much professionalism as anyone.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thank you. I've heard that a couple of times, but mostly people just tell me I sound like Nick Offerman.

[@brianmonroe861]

I don’t mind removing the cutters. I would do that regardless. Thank you for this video. I went through 6 blades within a couple weeks. I don’t usually work with pine, but I have had a few customers who were wanting used lumber for their furniture. I always remove all nails, staples, and fasteners and run a strong neodymium magnet along the board prior to planing. However, I have been running into boards with aluminum nails. It is extremely frustrating.

[@claudebieniek7272]

I wrecked 2 bandsaw blades. So I bought a metal detector on Amazon, the same as the tsa use. Saved me a lot of money because I use a lot of reclaimed wood. Able to find many dinky pieces of steel.

[@brianfalls5894]

I sure appreciate you posting up this video. I was very much surprised. I would have expected the planer with the bigger, stock head to use more power than the planer with the smaller diameter Shelix head. Very interesting results for sure!

[@mikesanchez9654]

Perfect video!. . .I learned more from watching your video than watching 10 other UA-cam videos combined, on the same subject from other guys. I just bought the same DeWalt planer and Shelix cutter head (only had it 3 days now) and I work mostly with soft woods like Birch and Pine. The most interesting part of your video was the amp draw test - very interesting. Keep up the great videos!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@mikesanchez9654]

FYI: After watching your other video about countersinks, I too realized that for years I've been using the wrong bits. . .unbelievable! When you've been a "garage guy" like myself for over 30 years, and you think you're soooo smart - you learn something new. I love it!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@@mikesanchez9654 I'm reminded constantly how little I know. Keeps things exciting.

[@dennisfahlstrom7175]

VERY informative. I too upgraded to the Shellix but I did so on my 8” Grizzly joiner. The 16” Grizzly planer came with the Shellix but it also came with a 5 hp 220V motor. The Joiner came with a 3 hp 220 motor. I did find that the joiner loaded down more with the upgraded Shellix. The planer with the larger stock motor did not have any problems even with more aggressive depth settings.

[@jayrose9463]

Great job
I have a 735x on the way
Already had the spiral.
So I’m excited on the savings

[@jayrose9463]

Turns out I made that up. I bought this planer and a jointer.
Jointer was spiral
This is straight
Oh well

[@jamesramey3549]

Very informative, thank you for taking the time to run through all these tests for us.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

You're quite welcome.

[@allantreadwell1953]

Outstanding Video! You have made the decision to buy this machine with an OEM SHELIX cutterhead AND the standard three blade head EASY! This will be a portable upgrade (sort-of) from my 40 year old Foley-Belsaw 5HP 240 VAC monster! Thank you for your thoughtful and technically informative video.

[@TheFeralEngineer]

I have the 734. No option for smaller cutter, so I had to pull out all of the inserts. It's not the end of the world. I carefully used an impact driver and the screws came out easily. I also stuck a wixey dro on my lunchbox and it's an absolute dream to use now 👌
The movie reboot reference was great, btw 😆

[@dovgoldstein3755]

I'm just a hobby woodworker, so I'm curious about the cost and if you have advice for a new planer? Thx

[@tonychristney2728]

I wonder if the higher power draw and RPMs are possibly explained by the smaller diameter of the cutter. The smaller diameter will have a lower moment of inertia unless it is significantly heavier. It will also require more torque to provide the same force on the cutting surface. It would be interesting to repeat the test with the OEM diameter cutter.

[@eastcoast8435]

I agree... also where the amp meter didn't really change much when wood wasn't going through I suggest part of the difference may be manufacturing differences in the planers themselves or just age/wear. Sometimes manufacturers have to switch up suppliers, and there could be a 4-5amp difference between those motors. Wear and tear - sawdust and bearing age both in the motor and blade could well account for it as well. Even if it's a PITA, true test would be swapping the blades and running the test again...

[@thebobloblawshow8832]

FYI: I bought a metal detector wand. It’s about the size if a barbecue lighter. They’re about 60-80 dollars. But if you’re planning down old wood it’s a great investment.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

For some reason, that's one of those tools that I've always wanted, but just never bought. I used to use a lot of reclaimed wood, and was constantly hitting wire brads and staples. Probably would have paid for itself ten times by now.

[@thebobloblawshow8832]

@@TheSnekkerShow : for sure. The price I quoted was Canadian dollars. So it should cost at least 35% cheaper. This is not a regular metal detector. It is short range only. This is what you use to narrow down the area when your metal detector goes off. So when you use it you have to be close. Small sweeps, you’ll get the hang of it.

[@genebruce6321]

So the reason for the high current draw not tripping the breaker - they actually will trip, but it takes time. The board is through the planer before the trip time occurs. A 4x load will trip the breaker in about a second. A 15x load will trip the breaker really quickly. Breakers work through an element being heated by the current passing through them. After a certain temperature is reached - pop!
I had to go find a Square-D trip curve for a residential 20A breaker. I learned something new.

[@erfuellte-ehe]

I LOVE how you challenged the response on warranty. I am often frustrated with hotlines of large companies & the lack of transparency and personal responsibility. Definitly inspiring. You got yourself subscriber even just for that. ❤

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thanks for commenting, and welcome to the channel.

[@GuteisFinger]

Very thorough and enlightening comparison. The amp draws with the stock planer call the soundness of the entire design into question over the long haul. One point I think your viewers should consider is that the replacement heads give the manufacturer a reason to say "no" to warranty coverage, like the first response you got from Dewalt, which really was the same as the second. I think this would be especially true with the Shelix, given the fact that Dewalt probably has tested their amp draw as well. I could be wrong, but there is certainly an argument that the heads affect the motor because of the amp draw. This was the best video I'm aware of on this topic. Very much worth the remake. Thanks.

[@robot8371]

Took me a year to convince my wife that I needed this planer.
Wonder how my years it's going take to convince her I need the blade

[@deanmartin6052]

So...... hows it all going?

[@TheWadetube]

A true test of a planer is to run Osage Orange through it. Also known as Bodark it is a super hard yellow wood, prone to chipping due to it's wavy grain nature and hard fiber. I did two cutting boards today but still had to sand them down for almost an hour . Use a different color saw dust to rub into the chip outs to show it on camera with a single light source or the sun.

[@dtom1145]

Nice vid, good detail. I bought a set of carbide blades for my DW735 for a whole lot less than the Shelix (less than half) and they work great. I have had them for just over 3 years now and they still cut like new. I have run all hardwoods including some figured with no problems. I'm a serious woodworker and use the planer often.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

What brand did you get? I bought some carbide knives for my jointer a couple years ago, and they still nicked before too long. Otherwise they're still sharp, but I've been replacing one knife at a time with steel to get rid of the nicks. I mill my own lumber, so that might be part of the problem.

[@timkeepers3325]

Why on earth did you not give the product name??

[@bullwinkle7542]

What brand of carbide did you buy ? I am thinking of buying a planner

[@michaelluciano8283]

The machine has a 15 amp motor which is OK to connect on a 20amp circuit . Electric code allows up to a connected load of 16 amps on a 20 amp breaker. If you are pulling 25 to 30 amps the breaker would trip before you got a 3 foot board planed even on a light cut. Something is not correct.

[@michaelluciano8283]

@@MJ-nb1qn what else is involved. Inrush current is not a problem.

[@g.fortin3228]

I kinda wish you would have included light pass planing, like 1/3 turn of the wheel. I almost never take a full turn in one swipe when planing 5/4 stock and trying to keep the most thickness for the projects. Nice test though, especially the amp test. Wow.. had no idea I was drawing that much with it. My 20 amp breakers (new circuits) never blow.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Maybe something for a future video. I normally take light passes too, and have likewise never tripped the breaker in the panel. I've tripped breakers in the planer and in an extension cord reel, but not in the panel.

[@sonomafred]

Nice video, thanks! Regarding amperage draw, you may wish to measure the line voltage at your outlet. It can vary anywhere between 108v and as high as 127v depending on how far your house is from the utility company's point-of-connection transformer. With a higher voltage you can expect a lower amperage draw and, of course, vice versa. You may also want to check your breakers. You can almost arc weld with older Federal Pacific or Zinsco breakers and they won't trip, but most newer inverse time breakers will usually trip very quickly at amperage draws above 30 or 40 amps for 15 or 20 amp breakers respectively.

[@michaellacaria910]

Great video, very informative. I’m struggling with my delay 735, planing poplar that may not be very dry and getting a lot of tear out, raised chips all over the boards, while searching for some advice I came across your video and was impressed with your testing and meticulous explorations. The peak current readings are definitely an eye opener and although hard to believe, the meters don’t lie. I believe some people may be confused with your readings and why the panel circuit breaker didn’t pop. The short answer is because you’re measuring current spikes not nominal steady state current. Circuit breakers all have a delay before they break, the old round fuses were called time delay fuses, used mainly in motor applications like when furnace motor started. The inrush current of a light bulb is up to 15x more than it’s steady state current. Motors have even more inrush currents. So, during a stressful cutting cycle there may be multiple spikes but ever so brief that it doesn’t even trip the breakers. Which leads me to say that a current spike is not necessarily indicative of using more power for the whole cycle. A more indicative comparison I think is to compare the average power usage per cycle instead of the current spike. I’m sure you thought of this and may have even mentioned it and I missed it. Thought I’d add my comments even if it’s 3 yrs later after making this video.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

The steady state current under a heavy load was not much lower than the peaks.

[@briangc1972]

If your planer rate of feed is not adjustable, the increase in the amp test is partly because cutter edges pf the smaller diameter roller cutter is effectively traveling at a lower speed (FPM) and as a result is taking a larger bite per revolution, thus loading the cutting edge slightly more. Also, that style carbide cutter does not have the same type of razor edge as your standard planer blades; it is a slightly less sharp edge. If you run your finger along a planer knife edge length wise , it will cut you, those carbide inserts will not. Not a bad thing, but it answers the questions of why the motor sounds different and the amp draw is higher.

[@rueban96]

Excellent insight. I'd like to see the same test with the OEM diameter to match surface speed.

[@lockgessner]

I somewhat disagree with the sharpness comment, as a machinist I fully understand edge prep on carbide but cutters such as this or high positives for aluminum work and generally dead sharp. Carbide deff can be as sharp as steel its just not the norm for metal work.

[@intjonmiller]

@@lockgessner Can be, yes, but as a general rule carbide inserts aren't as sharp as high speed steel tooling. It's quite uncommon for them to be sharpened from the factory. Typically they are molded and sintered and the shrinkage during the sintering process is what passes for sharpening (reduces the radius of the edge). As many (notably Stefan Gotteswinter within the UA-cam / Instagram machinist community) have shown, you can sharpen your inserts to be every bit as sharp as high speed steel, but you have to actually sharpen them. Stefan built a low speed diamond lapping machine for that purpose. It is unlikely that anyone will be taking the time to sharpen all of their carbide inserts on all faces for a Shelix planer head.

[@andrewmartinek9135]

I think there may be one other reason for the amp draw. Earlier in the video he said that the smaller Helix roller causes the plainer roller to push down more. That could create enough resistance to cause the amps to increase. Also look at the amps when he turns the machine on. The Helix roller rest amps are lower compared to the original roller rest amps. Why is that? Or maybe I’m just talking out of my ass because I really don’t know.

[@alphazuluz]

I think you’re spot on. I think the sharpness is the more important factor, though. One is an actual knife, with a 25 degree (or so) cutting edge, while the other is a carbide cutter with a 60ish degree edge. That makes the carbide cutters FAR more durable, but they will not slice as well. It’s like trying to slice a tomato with a razor sharp axe vs a razor sharp kitchen knife. They will both cut it, but the thinner edge on the knife will do it with less effort.
If horsepower is not a concern, and you have a 10hp motor, who cares about a little more effort? But when you have a 1-2hp motor, it makes a difference.

[@smokefentanyl]

The best review and comparison I’ve seen on here! Great job dude thank you for taking the time and showing the difference in power draw as well as planning surface quality! I’ve been through 3 of these planers this past month, the first one made a crazy rattling / death bearing motor noise after a dozen cuts as well as constantly got stuck with pine and cedar ( both had a decent bit of knots, never took cuts deeper than 1/32 at a time ) . The second one was ok at first, then I had to plane 9 cedar deck boards that were 8’ long. They had a decent bit of knots all the way down the board, and would constantly get so stuck that I had to push them through by hand with insane amounts of force. I thought cedar was soft… I guess any knots and it’s a no go. The rollers wound up getting worn out unevenly and even with pine that had minimal knots, it would constantly get stuck! I have not had a single dewalt tool let me down as much as this one. I had to force the cedar boards through because I needed to get the job done for a client ( custom shutters for their house ) Otherwise I would have stopped right away. The only culprits I could think of is; knots, and maybe a slight cup on some of the boards. I check to make sure thickness was the same all the way down on all these boards, made sure they were clean, made sure my rollers were warm, etc etc. The only thing is that I didn’t wax the bed.. I’m on the third one now which I just got yesterday and I’m honestly at the point where if I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong I will give up and save my money to buy a bigger floor model planer. Any insight? Could it really be the knots + cupped wood? It’s cedar.. I thought that was softer wood, it did not have as many issues with pine although it did get stuck when planning wide (12”) boards. Please someone give me the rule of thumb on knots etc .. I’m bummed . These cost $800 in Canada.. not cheap especially for someone just starting to seriously get into this hobby while working for min wage. I’ve seen other videos where people plane wood with knots , and even in yours you managed to plane that small live edge piece which looked like it would be difficult, mine would just get stuck right away lol. Also it had a lot of snipe all down the board, and wouldn’t get stuck specifically where there’s knots, it was almost random and all down the board.. I hope this one works 😭😭 I even built a table for it already too..

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Knots are nothing but end grain, and I've planed entire end-grain cutting boards with no major issues aside from power consumption. I'm guessing, of course, but it sounds like it could have been a couple different things:
If boards are an uneven thickness, they can get stuck partway through. If that happens, turn the crank to raise the body until the board starts moving again. This happens to me all the time, especially when planing rough lumber right after jointing. Also, since wood moves more across the width than across the length, knots tend not to shrink as the board dries, and can protrude enough to make the board jam.
Deck lumber sometimes has a higher moisture content, especially if it was stored outside. Wet wood doesn't slide across the bed as easily as dry wood. Waxing the bed is very important. The same motor that turns the cutterhead also powers the impeller and the feed rollers. Too much drag on the bed will rob power from the other functions.

[@l.george7517]

Pine and cedar are soft and sappy. You are probally building up sap residue on your blades.

[@johndrennanjr594]

Thank You for posting this, I had no idea that to actually get the best job from this planer I should get the Shelix cutter head. Taking the cost of thos planer & get the best from it will cost an additional 500 dollars

[@TheSnekkerShow]

It's definitely a nice improvement, but I've owned thickness planers for more than 20 years before getting this. Don't rush the upgrade unless you're sure it's the right move for you.

[@jeefflanyt]

I just came across your video. I see it is almost two years old but just the same I am in the market for a planer and it was very insightful. I wish I had seen it sooner because I have several ham sandwiches that I want to plane and didn't know you could do that. Thanks so much for the help.

[@ferretfez6976]

I would have liked to have seen the draw on your old machine before you switched the blades but that said a VERY good video. Personally as I would not throw out the original blades if I upgraded it, if it went wrong and I needed to return it I would just put the original blades back in first.

[@gerardlunow567]

Pretty obvious you are not just a woodworker. Looks like engineering education. I am about to buy one and learned about Shelix. A good plane makes all of my hobby woodworking better. I am about to make perfect fitting kitchen drawers on roller bearing slides. Great video, unpretentious host with the intelligent thought behind it all. Very cool.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@gerardlunow567]

@@TheSnekkerShow I bought one yesterday and then was surprised how big the box was. I drove my car vs the Jeep. I'll build it in a wall rack so I can flip it up. When I picked the box up I realized how heavy it was. There are so many things I can use it for.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@@gerardlunow567 Congratulations, that's a nice addition. If you didn't get the extension tables, I'd recommend buying or building those to keep snipe to a minimum.

[@lloydlee6643]

Got my DeWalt 735 earlier in the week (6/2021)and called Byrd today to order my shelix OEM cutter head. Requests are so numerous that they can't get me an OEM until Sept/ Oct 2021. WOW

[@JeffyJeff01]

Great video, thanks for posting! You covered everything so thoroughly that my only comment (other than thanks) is about your trees. When you emptied you dust can I noticed one of your trees looked kinda stressed. Something you may not know is some kinds of wood sawdust can be acidic to the point of being alkaline. Some trees/shrubs are ok with this as far as the soil they are growing in, some aren't.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Good observation. My soil is acidic and inadequately organic, so the only survivors here do well in that environment.

[@scottbelt8642]

I have to admit that I am a little shocked at the amp ratings between the two. But not totally surprised. I recently installed the Byrd OEM and was wondering if I had done something wrong because it seemed like it was loading the motor more than stock. Now I see it is true. It is still a worthwhile upgrade and I have no regrets.

[@TrueGrantsta]

A fair power consumption test would have you swap the heads and re-run. That would eliminate differences caused by other differences in the machines.
It seems likely (to the point of obvious) that the additional roller force is adding friction between the wood and the bed, which causes the roller motor to work harder to maintain a constant feed speed. To confirm this hypothesis would require some method to ensure that roller pressure is the same in both tests.

[@jasonbarile2014]

Awesome explanation... just a couple months too late for me as I've already installed and used the smaller cutter head without realizing the implications of that choice. Thanks for all the great tips though!

[@alvinhall9116]

Very informative thank you!

[@blackhorse2947]

I added the same shelix head to my Dewalt DW735 a couple of years ago. Makes a very big difference.

[@JonDunnmusician]

Fascinating detailed video- just a heads up a year after buying my Dewlat planer the motor died smoke... end
It had carbide blades from infinity cutting tools and not too much use

[@TheSnekkerShow]

That's still under warranty. You should contact Dewalt.

[@musicbymark]

Thanks for the updated video and caution about undersized vs. OEM. BTW, great that you compost, but be sure to add lots of greens/grass clippings to offset all that sawdust (super high in carbon) :-)

[@jose83771]

If you think about power draw and amps pulled all equals to overload on motor and belt, so the wear and tear and all the parts will be more so most likely will get damaged faster than running the oem style

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Agreed, the more you use a tool or the harder you make it work, the faster the parts will wear out. The same could be said of planing oak compared to pine, or business use compared to hobby use.

[@briangc1972]

Your hack @14:00 of shimming the spring will raise the roller slightly, but it does not reduce the spring pressure against the roller and board. You are effectively preloading the spring, you are not reducing the pressure. The spring will exert the same pressure against the board.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

You're probably right. Over time the constant pressure might soften the springs a little, but I'm not sure how much. It's not a modification I plan on doing with mine.

[@themightyparthos]

The first day the wife and the kids are out of school and here I am watching a toy.. Err tool review video...
This stuff is like heroine to me as I now need another bump..
I also did not miss your complaint about having to get a redundant tool, Darn...
Well at least I know what will be my birthday wish this year.
Excellent video!

[@hemogoblin164]

Because your rollers are so tight on the Shelix non-oem, I think you need to test the draw on the oem Shelix. That extra draw is probably due to how much harder it needs to work to pull the board through.

[@Otto-W]

That's a thought I had as well.

[@matthewlugo6713]

44:34 - "i gotta figure out what to do with two planers,..." hahaha. first bad thought, Run them in tandem! Out of one and into the next! I or "rough" and fine cut machines, or this machine is for the mystery board with a nail
ock in it. Worse yet, set one 90 degrees rotated from the first and you can plane small stock without turning the,...

[@JonathanHOODLAWHood]

It's actually not a bad idea. Maybe have a short conveyor between the two machines, and plenty of shop space. Lol

[@savoielvis1]

I don t even have a planer, but i still watch the all video....nice job! thx!

[@SYKOK1LLER]

Got one coming tomorrow that I picked up for $450. If I ever get shelix the blade is going to nearly match the machine price. No rush for it at current prices.

[@woodworkingwithdjleblanc6380]

Ive had one of these planers for more than 15 years , always run it on a 15 amp circuit , run thousands of board feet of Oak , Hard maple , walnut and softwoods through it , and taken pretty heavy cuts , Ive run end grain cutting boards through it , I have never tripped the breaker on the machine or the one in the panel , I will put and amp meter on it to see what the inrush is and then monitor running current.
I don't use Dewalt blades , I found they dull too quick ,they don't last very long. Dull blades will still plane pretty good but make it work a lot harder , maybe that's the difference
well done video

[@jamesdeclan7538]

Well, I'm definitely getting the OEM. Thanks.

[@declaneric]

Glad I came across this video, you have a new subscriber now.
A couple of things I thought about:
1. The fact that your Shelix planer was old enough to be out of warranty could add to the amperage during your test. Older motor and older bearings could both cause the power draw to be higher than doing the same task on the new planer - ESPECIALLY because the Shelix removes any gaps in the cutting process, which brings me to
2. The original three blades are separated from each other, so there is relief in those gaps, however brief it may be. The Shelix is always in contact with the board at every moment in the cutting process, because of the spiral placement of the blades. That non-stop friction works the motor the entire time. That could be a contributor to the readings you got.
3. Another aspect of the warranty on equipment is a universal "umbrella" clause, which is "altering the equipment to any aspect outside of the manufacturer's specified design."
That's why you got a "yes" on the warranty void question, both quickly by the first person, and after some confirmation by the second service person.
The way DeWalt's lawyers would frame it would be this:
"The DeWalt DW735 Planer is designed, calculated, and tested to operate with DeWalt specific parts under specific conditions. Changing out parts or accessories to anything not specified, tested, and approved for use by DeWalt alters the configuration that has been guaranteed for operation by the company; the company cannot, and will not approve or guarantee, or be held responsible for, any failure of equipment that has been operated with any such alteration."
So even if someone at DeWalt told you that you could swap out parts yourself to whatever type of part you wanted to use, you would probably STILL run into issues with repair or replacement being covered under warranty. I haven't checked, but I wouldn't be surprised if Byrd has a disclaimer on their Shelix heads, warning consumers to check their warranty before installing their product, for that very reason.
Thank you for the thorough overview and tests, I appreciate the detail and professional approach to your video.

[@stevecuthbert8856]

Very thorough test. I was impressed by the noise reduction and surprised by the increased amp draw with the Shelix head. I had similar noise reduction when I installed a Shelix head in my Grizzly jointer. The quality of the cut is most of what I am interested in but the noise reduction is an added bonus to me. You've sold me on the Shelix and will be purchasing for my DW733. You've earned a new subscriber my friend.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thank you, and welcome to the channel.

[@gcreekinstruments9327]

Did you install on your DW733? What results on amp draw (stalling out) and quality of cut?
Jim Phillips

[@hjboots]

Thank you for being so thorough and it gave me alot to think about. I am in the process of buying a planer, Dewalt was my first choice and after watching the test i think Dewalt will be my choice because of your review. Still i`ll research further but you help me out with your testing. Again Thank you

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Glad it was helpful.

[@TrueGrantsta]

The idea about shimming the rubber rollers to rest higher (14:45), seems unlikely to succeed. This is because the problem isn't caused by where the roller sits in relation to the cutter head when the machine is -not in use-. When the machine is in use, the rollers still have to move to the same place relative to the frame to allow the cutter heads to touch the wood. Pre-compressing the roller springs with shims will do nothing to change the force those springs exert -when in use-.
There appears only 3 ways to reduce the roller head force:
1. Replace the springs with softer springs
2. Modify the machine so that the top of the springs somehow sit higher than they do currently (e.g., if there are shims on TOP of the roller springs: remove them)
3. Replace your undersized cutting roller with an OEM sized cutting roller.
IMO Shelix should not even be selling an undersized version because it creates so many problems, i can't see how anyone would ever willingly make that purchase if they knew the negative effects it would have on the rest of the machine.

[@markfrye9178]

Your thoroughness is amazing. Your delivery is quite good also I've watched both your videos on the Shelix cutters. I hope your channel grows and grows.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thank you for the kind feedback.

[@mrdddeeezzzweldor5039]

Great and comprehensive review of both setups. I know of only one friend who switched to a SHELIX and he had mixed emotions on the planing enhancement over the obvious cost and power requirement issues. Thanks for the review and technical details. Now to find a stock-like blade with more longevity than DeWalt OEM.

[@CSLFiero]

lol at the thought that came to your mind while watching the total recall remake was "I, as well, am a talentless hack"

[@dkdj5]

I would put the original cutter backing if you need put it in for repairs. For one it would keep them from hesitating working on it or warranting repairs. Secondly if they replace the whole unit due to needing excessive repairs then you would likely loose your cutter head.

[@connorlorenzo2162]

Sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!

[@marleycolin954]

@Connor Lorenzo Instablaster ;)

[@connorlorenzo2162]

@Marley Colin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.

[@connorlorenzo2162]

@Marley Colin it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !

[@marleycolin954]

@Connor Lorenzo You are welcome :)

[@EddyStyl3s]

I purchased a used Dewalt planer DW735 5 years ago for 450 with an extra set of blades. Did not spend any money on new blades or anything and sold it last week for 450. They do hold their value.

[@hasanzaidi6573]

Louis ck made it easy to understand the pros and cons of this upgrade, thanks!

[@joereynolds539]

Very well explained!! I also have the older model and have picked up several sets of blades on sale so I'll probly go through them before I upgrade to the Shelix!! Great video!!!

[@jayneal8293]

Very interesting and informative! Thanks for the video!

[@Metalbass10000]

After graduating from a 2 year Machine Tool Technics program (3.98 GPA👍🏼), I worked my way up from CNC machinist/operator, through tool/mold making, prototyping, programming, manufacturing process engineering, then into process management, and finally running the production and engineering in the machine shop, over about 12 years. So, I've become extremely familiar with carbide inserts, and what they can do vs what they shouldn't do. I wouldn't run my own shop without carbide inserted cutters.

[@toms4123]

One of the best reviews I have seen on YT. Factual, competent, detailed and objective. Thank you.

[@gregquante8864]

You’re the AVE of woodworking. Hope you’re not offended. Love the detailed analysis. I should say you’re the AVE without the F-bombs. Love the channel

[@petercyr]

Great comparison video. I recently bought one of these planers as I gear up my garage but haven't had a chance to use it yet. Pretty certain my garage is on 15amps at the moment and I've already blown the breaker combining a portable ceramic heater and a shopvac. It'll be interesting to see how long till I need to call an electrician over to upgrade my garage breakers.. I have a feeling its definitely not going to cut it as is.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Yeah, that will be close, especially if you want to capture the dust instead of breathing it. There are some clever designs for filter cabinets to eliminate the need for simultaneous dust collection, but an electrical upgrade is probably inevitable.

[@richardlug6139]

You will be doing more than upgrading your breakers. You will have to run heavier wire to the receptacle also.

[@shanegillespie6014]

Very nice and informative. I did not see the first video so I found this one much better. : )
I kick myself every time I use my Jet 15" for not going with a Shelix. It's going to get to a point that purchasing the Shelix will be cheaper than the wear and tear on my shoes.

[@shanegillespie6014]

So why does the spiral head pull more amps?

[@gregrosendahl7362]

Thanks for an excellent, in-depth video on this. I use that exact planer and have been using it for over 10 years with no trouble. I do have to agree with some of the comments though, in that something seems to be off in the amp conversion. I'm not an electrician, but it seems off.
I use my planer primarily for end-grain cutting boards and have to make shallow passes because it is asking a lot of that planer to do this. I ran 10 of them through it today (about an hour of planing) and it really draws down hard on that type of planing and gets the motor hot, yet the breaker never tripped. That wouldn't be possible if it was drawing 25 - 30 amps the whole time. Especially through an extension cord.

[@johnnorris1227]

Yeah I'm wondering if something isn't off with that line splitter that he used to seperate the hot wire so he could attach the amp clamp. The way to know for sure would be to eliminate that line splitter and put the amp clamp around the hot wire on that circuit where it comes out of the breaker.

[@ancienttom97]

Thanks for bringing up the question of the Shelix voiding the warranty. I just bought a 735 myself and was considering upgrading it to a Shelix. With an answer to this question coming from the manufacturer of NO, I would expect that they would reject any service under warranty if it had anything but the blades the unit was sold with in it. Your personal viewpoint that the Shelix did not cause the failure is conjecture and very bad advice to your subscribers. While I agree with you about it being like replacing tires on a new car, the manufacture could argue that putting square tires on your car is what caused the suspension to fail and the motor to burn out from too much load. You did demonstrated in your video that the Shelix cutter heads can put a considerably heavier load on the unit to the point of tripping it's breaker on the machine. While it might make sense that the breaker on the unit is there to protect the motor from an overload issue, you might consider that DeWalt's argument might be that the long term effect of using the Shelix can cause accumulative excessive heat buildup in the motor and undue stress on the internal parts that drive the cutting head by repeatedly resetting the breaker and continuing the cut. While we all know that this would be a "cop out" argument, even if they couldn't demonstrate a history of failures due to using the Shelix, it's an argument that you would loose. Therefore, I would worry about voiding the DeWalt warranty without a guarantee from Shelix that they would back up any claim of machine failure due to excessive stress to the DeWalt planer caused by their cutting heads. As for me, I think I'll wait until the DeWalt warranty runs out before I try the Shelix.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

I think I did a pretty good job of distinguishing between the facts and my interpretation of those facts. It's a very popular upgrade, and I would think that if it was killing planers and voiding warranties you might hear more about that online. Of course, everyone has to decide their own level of risk tolerance. I'm glad the information helped with your decision.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

for fucks sake, just put the old setup in there and lie about it. jesus mate, ive seen presidents escape with less scrutiny!

[@bingobango8777]

The instruction manual explicitly says helical cutter heads have not been tested and are not recommended.

[@TrippKnightly]

They should just ship the OEM-size 735 Shelix with the cutters detached. Less manufacturing cost, less install time for the user. I must be overlooking something.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

I asked about that, and the cutters need to be installed for balancing. It would definitely save some installation time if they were already off.

[@espressomatic]

I've got a brand-spanking new DW735 sitting in the back of my truck right now. I plan to put a helical head in it "just for the hell of it" but mainly to avoid any issues with end-grain and figured wood. If there's any issue that eventually needs to be taken care of by warranty, remove the helical head and install the original blades BEFORE taking it in for service. Simple. But you didn't hear that from me.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

You're right, and others have added some good reasons for doing that. For one, if the planer is defective, the service center probably isn't going to carefully remove your helical head and send it back to you.