Looks like a really nice lead job. The factory used plastic at that particular joint which did bubble over the years. I don't think you would have a problem with vinyl over that repair as it is. If you were worried about it, you could use a skim coat of All Metal and it would be fine. The thing about working lead, which it looks like you figured out, is not overheating it. There's a real limited heat range to keep it in a "jelly' or clay like state after you get a nice tin coat down.
Hi Ric - can I use a picture from your video (12:15) in an upcoming rust repair video I am making - I will put a link and or card to your video as it's being shown. I'd like to use it to show that lap welding and tapping the seam down is the correct way to repair rust damage - as opposed to butt welding, grinding off all of the weld, and attempting to finish w/o filler. Thanks - Jerry
Absolutely, thank you for putting a link or card. Happy to help out in the restoration community to spread the knowledge. Looking forward to watching your video!
Worked at a radiator shop for a few years. The dude that did all the repairing & rodding never wore a respirator. There was a large hood that sucked air into it ferociously,but he was always enveloped in smoke because he was bending over the top of whatever he was repairing. Acid fumes & everything else that he hit with the torch he inhaled. He'd be hacking all day,spitting up what could only be lungs. He's dead now. 15 years is all it took before he could no longer breath.
At the start of the video I wondered how you used a whole container of butter that should last year, 4 or 5 years in The Body Shop eve😂ry day. Spread your butter around with a wet acid brush and put a thing coat on then. Apply your heat , it's not near as messy that butter will last years using it every day.
Excellent job in the B pillar!
Great technique 👍 I got one I need to do very helpful....
About 1967 i was in a body shop, and they were still using hot molten
Lead to fix body damage, its a lost art.
Looks like a really nice lead job. The factory used plastic at that particular joint which did bubble over the years. I don't think you would have a problem with vinyl over that repair as it is. If you were worried about it, you could use a skim coat of All Metal and it would be fine. The thing about working lead, which it looks like you figured out, is not overheating it. There's a real limited heat range to keep it in a "jelly' or clay like state after you get a nice tin coat down.
Hi Ric - can I use a picture from your video (12:15) in an upcoming rust repair video I am making - I will put a link and or card to your video as it's being shown. I'd like to use it to show that lap welding and tapping the seam down is the correct way to repair rust damage - as opposed to butt welding, grinding off all of the weld, and attempting to finish w/o filler. Thanks - Jerry
Absolutely, thank you for putting a link or card. Happy to help out in the restoration community to spread the knowledge. Looking forward to watching your video!
Worked at a radiator shop for a few years. The dude that did all the repairing & rodding never wore a respirator. There was a large hood that sucked air into it ferociously,but he was always enveloped in smoke because he was bending over the top of whatever he was repairing. Acid fumes & everything else that he hit with the torch he inhaled. He'd be hacking all day,spitting up what could only be lungs. He's dead now. 15 years is all it took before he could no longer breath.
Looks good
Is it necessary to tin the lead patch job?
Sweet video…
thanks for the tips! do you recommend doing this to small and tight areas that have pitting? for example window seal areas
What do you send it down with
Whats the name of your metal cleaner ?
I'd stay away from propane as it introduces moisture with the flame. I'm sure using water/baking soda negates my concerns about moisture though.
What is the purpose of the mason jar and ice cubes?
Fat man gasoline….
At the start of the video I wondered how you used a whole container of butter that should last year, 4 or 5 years in The Body Shop eve😂ry day. Spread your butter around with a wet acid brush and put a thing coat on then. Apply your heat , it's not near as messy that butter will last years using it every day.
Damn, talk about doing it right the first time. Sick of non-vinyl top cars having nothing but bondo covering shoddy half-fast work in this area.
Tap water around 7.6 ph adding baking soda makes this even higher which is great for neutralising the acid.
you cant just use acetylene alone. the black soot strings would get all over the surface
Propane is really oily .
How can you be a "car" guy and not know who Gene Winfield is?