Just spotted your man balancing that crank. He left a big metal shaving inside the wheel on the right hand side. It's going to make the balance off. Keep up the good work
1:40 Lee, you can't have 2 forms of wrist pin retention on a piston, either the rod must float on the pin, or the pin must be clamped by the rod. Using both is likely going to knock one of the clips out as you can't expect one of these vintage engines to have all the components running true as the crank rotates. Even if it doesn't pop some of the clips out it's likely to put some fore and aft thrust on the pistons as the crank rotates. Get those pin clips out of there.
@@billweston6579 Pin should never have more than about 0.005" end float between the clips or half that per side. There's no way that old engine is even halfway accurate, let alone tightening the rod pinch bolt with the rod perfectly centered. A broken pinch bolt is nothing more than a sign it was way overtightened.
It’s better practice to calculate the “ lobe centre “ by measuring the opening angle ( usually done at 1mm of valve lift ) , then the closing angle ( also 1mm lift ) , add 180 degrees , divide by 2 , then subtract the opening angle ( for inlet , because this references the result as an angle from tdc ) . The result ( in your case) should be 108 . It’s more important that the opening and closing happens at the right time , than measuring the actual highest lift . Cam grinds are seldom perfect, you could be opening and closing 5 degrees off and you would never know
That brings back memories of timing up cams on Suzuki racing engines did so many I could almost do it by eye.within 4 degrees. Also On Honda, Yams and Kwakas
Duplex cam gear set on a classic Mini, counter sink the back bolts, carefully shim both gears to teeth measures equivalent - and carry on with no rattle. 😎👍
I knocked the ceramic out of a sprk plug and welded a bolt in as a piston stop. Rounded the bolt end so it does not damage the piston. Rotate the engine in reverse rotation until it stops, note the degree wheel reading. Now rotate in the normal rotation until it stops and note the degree wheel reading again. Half way between is true TDC. Remove the piston stop and turn the engine to half way between the two stops and at the determined true TDC. Now the degree wheel can be zeroed.
Knocking the ceramic out can be tougher than it looks. If you cut around where the metal meets the porcelain it just falls out. A lathe is ideal, but you can use an angle grinder
@@Phantom-mk4kp Using a dial gauge to determine two points either side of TDC is perfectly accurate, sounds like you maybe don't have a lot of experience building engines?
Basically, you're wanting to determine the exact position of the crankshaft whilst the piston is all the way at the top of the bore (TDC) Top Dead Center. As the crank can move a few degrees either way, with the piston not moving much at all, you need to find the total degrees of rotation, one to the left, then one to the right, then divide by 2. Presto! You now have the crankshaft at TDC. The dwell is the time the piston isn't moving, but the crankshaft is making it's way past TDC.
My Dad had a Studebaker Commander have a gudgeon pin come loose and score the cylinder wall. Bored that one cylinder and put an oversize piston in. I do not know how long drove that car after that failure was repaired.
I got a question, when it came to the "harmonic balancer " could you have ground the flange instead of as many hole's? Great stuff, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Depending on year a 750 made up to 17bhp in standard form. In 1935 a guy called Murray Jamieson developed a supercharged DOHC competition engine based on the Austin 7 that made 90bhp, pretty incredible for the time.
What is the large extra stud in the 1275 next to the thermostat? Normally on a 11 bolt block, they are a bolt with a smaller diameter in that position. Will the rocket cover clear the stud and nut? Or is this an A+ thing over an older A series?
This might be a daft question having never used a balancer but how do you know if that knuckle shaft driving the crank is in iteslf true because if its not it will throw the readings out if its oscillating out of round if you see what I mean.Just curious .I have had a propshaft balanced before on a similar machine but rather than drill it a bit of weld was put on at specific points much like a lead weight is used on a wheel rim but even then how do you know the tooling driving it is true and balanced?
He cant weld to it because its cast iron, props are steel, he probably could not glue to it either cause cast iron has graphite, but he could weld to the clutch basket perhaps.
You'll find out by rotating an apparently balanced crank 180° and seeing if it stays in balance. The drive gear is close to the centre of rotation, and I'd guess the manufacturer balances them, but you can easily check at any time.
Would you ever call that type of timing pulley/ sprocket by its proper name !! they are called "adjustable".. Vernier pulleys/ sprockets are different!! they have two circles of holes with one number difference between them, when timed up a pin is fitted to the pair of holes that line up
Depends on how the cams are made. If ground from blanks they should be able to get the key/lobe alignment very close, often the cheaper performance cams are reground standard cams, and it's not always possible to get the correct profile and maintain the correct key alignment.
You’ve got to take into account tolerances. So the cam is timed against the crank, the crank has a slot, the slot fits a key way (which has a machine tolerance) the key pulls against a crank drive which in turn pulls the chain/belt (stretch) then pulls the cam gear which is on a slot plus the keyway on the cam. I bet I’d give you 100 goes to machine make the parts and you won’t get it bang on. So as it comes and it might be 2/3deg with all that considered is fantastic.
Please don't comment on things you don't understand. Small balancing holes in the periphery of a flywheel are perfectly fine, and they are typically balanced at the factory like this.
Sorry i dont get this fine balancing they dont do it when the thing is new plus other stuff spinning when its running will over ride the fine balancing anyway. Drilling clutch housings and flywheels you are playing with impending diaster. You can drill it out but you cant put it back
I find it amazing that armchair experts that clearly don't know what they are talking about are so keen to stick their oar in, when Lee has been successfully building engines for years. Rotating components ARE balanced at the factory, but on this older stuff typically not as accurately as you want. Bear in mind many of the engines that Barum works on will be used in competition, and will be revving higher (sometimes much higher) than they would from the factory. Drilling small balancing holes in the periphery of the flywheel is perfectly fine, again this is typically how it was done at the factory. The clutch housing is steel and doesn't have the brittle failure modes of cast iron or the amount of hoop stress as the flywheel.
Also the small hole he drilled in the flywheel was 180 degrees away from the first larger hole which goes to show he took too much meat off in the first place right?
If you are genuinely and sincerely fond of a colleague who you have known for some time do you really need to insert the word ‘mate’ into virtually every sentence when talking to them?
Just spotted your man balancing that crank. He left a big metal shaving inside the wheel on the right hand side. It's going to make the balance off.
Keep up the good work
I love how Isaac is a GOOD LISTENER. He'll learn a lot.
1:40 Lee, you can't have 2 forms of wrist pin retention on a piston, either the rod must float on the pin, or the pin must be clamped by the rod. Using both is likely going to knock one of the clips out as you can't expect one of these vintage engines to have all the components running true as the crank rotates. Even if it doesn't pop some of the clips out it's likely to put some fore and aft thrust on the pistons as the crank rotates. Get those pin clips out of there.
You can have both. As long as the pin can float between the two clips it will be fine. They are only there in case the pinch bolt breaks.
@@billweston6579 Pin should never have more than about 0.005" end float between the clips or half that per side. There's no way that old engine is even halfway accurate, let alone tightening the rod pinch bolt with the rod perfectly centered.
A broken pinch bolt is nothing more than a sign it was way overtightened.
It’s better practice to calculate the “ lobe centre “ by measuring the opening angle ( usually done at 1mm of valve lift ) , then the closing angle ( also 1mm lift ) , add 180 degrees , divide by 2 , then subtract the opening angle ( for inlet , because this references the result as an angle from tdc ) . The result ( in your case) should be 108 . It’s more important that the opening and closing happens at the right time , than measuring the actual highest lift . Cam grinds are seldom perfect, you could be opening and closing 5 degrees off and you would never know
Stopped a bit sudden 😂, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
That brings back memories of timing up cams on Suzuki racing engines did so many I could almost do it by eye.within 4 degrees. Also On Honda, Yams and Kwakas
Duplex cam gear set on a classic Mini, counter sink the back bolts, carefully shim both gears to teeth measures equivalent - and carry on with no rattle. 😎👍
good day to you wonderful to see an old engine which i am more familiar with thanks for the video
One hell of a block the old Austin! Good range of content today lads👍
I knocked the ceramic out of a sprk plug and welded a bolt in as a piston stop. Rounded the bolt end so it does not damage the piston. Rotate the engine in reverse rotation until it stops, note the degree wheel reading. Now rotate in the normal rotation until it stops and note the degree wheel reading again. Half way between is true TDC. Remove the piston stop and turn the engine to half way between the two stops and at the determined true TDC. Now the degree wheel can be zeroed.
But you're doing it the most accurate way, that wouldn't suit this bloke
@@Phantom-mk4kp😂
Knocking the ceramic out can be tougher than it looks. If you cut around where the metal meets the porcelain it just falls out. A lathe is ideal, but you can use an angle grinder
@@Phantom-mk4kp Using a dial gauge to determine two points either side of TDC is perfectly accurate, sounds like you maybe don't have a lot of experience building engines?
@@ferrumignis Not as good or as simple as a hard stop. Try using a DTI when the plugs are at an acute angle. Maybe t's you that has little experience
I am totally confused with the timing. . But excellent information.
Basically, you're wanting to determine the exact position of the crankshaft whilst the piston is all the way at the top of the bore (TDC) Top Dead Center. As the crank can move a few degrees either way, with the piston not moving much at all, you need to find the total degrees of rotation, one to the left, then one to the right, then divide by 2. Presto! You now have the crankshaft at TDC. The dwell is the time the piston isn't moving, but the crankshaft is making it's way past TDC.
I learned some thing cool today, thanx.
My Dad had a Studebaker Commander have a gudgeon pin come loose and score the cylinder wall. Bored that one cylinder and put an oversize piston in. I do not know how long drove that car after that failure was repaired.
I got a question, when it came to the "harmonic balancer " could you have ground the flange instead of as many hole's? Great stuff, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
If you trick up those Austin engines, they'll make almost 10hp
Depending on year a 750 made up to 17bhp in standard form. In 1935 a guy called Murray Jamieson developed a supercharged DOHC competition engine based on the Austin 7 that made 90bhp, pretty incredible for the time.
My first car was a Dyane 6 pushing a full 35 bhp, you could just leave the Austin 7 guys in the dust ...
12 to fifteenth thou Mini tappet clearance?
The Mini committee is still out.
I feel as if I am in Dowden machinery shop 1963, here
What is the large extra stud in the 1275 next to the thermostat? Normally on a 11 bolt block, they are a bolt with a smaller diameter in that position. Will the rocket cover clear the stud and nut? Or is this an A+ thing over an older A series?
This might be a daft question having never used a balancer but how do you know if that knuckle shaft driving the crank is in iteslf true because if its not it will throw the readings out if its oscillating out of round if you see what I mean.Just curious .I have had a propshaft balanced before on a similar machine but rather than drill it a bit of weld was put on at specific points much like a lead weight is used on a wheel rim but even then how do you know the tooling driving it is true and balanced?
He cant weld to it because its cast iron, props are steel, he probably could not glue to it either cause cast iron has graphite, but he could weld to the clutch basket perhaps.
You'll find out by rotating an apparently balanced crank 180° and seeing if it stays in balance. The drive gear is close to the centre of rotation, and I'd guess the manufacturer balances them, but you can easily check at any time.
👍👍
Would you ever call that type of timing pulley/ sprocket by its proper name !! they are called "adjustable".. Vernier pulleys/ sprockets are different!! they have two circles of holes with one number difference between them, when timed up a pin is fitted to the pair of holes that line up
Why can’t they make the cams so they fit and are timed on a standard cam pulley . Can they not machine then so they bolt straight up.
Depends on how the cams are made. If ground from blanks they should be able to get the key/lobe alignment very close, often the cheaper performance cams are reground standard cams, and it's not always possible to get the correct profile and maintain the correct key alignment.
You’ve got to take into account tolerances. So the cam is timed against the crank, the crank has a slot, the slot fits a key way (which has a machine tolerance) the key pulls against a crank drive which in turn pulls the chain/belt (stretch) then pulls the cam gear which is on a slot plus the keyway on the cam. I bet I’d give you 100 goes to machine make the parts and you won’t get it bang on. So as it comes and it might be 2/3deg with all that considered is fantastic.
The timing is out because you made crank TDC at 006 on the degree wheel. So 108 on the wheel is 102 true degrees, not what the cam requires.
Once he set the bendy pointer he would zero the degree wheel to that so instead of 6 it will be zero before he turns the 108
No, when he set the pointer at 6 degrees the crank was 6 degrees away from TDC so zero on the degree wheel is true TDC.
6 degrees was just a reference to find the true TDC. Obviously when you first fit the gauge to the crank, its not perfect, its just eyeballed close.
Please dont drill holes in flywheels.
Please don't comment on things you don't understand. Small balancing holes in the periphery of a flywheel are perfectly fine, and they are typically balanced at the factory like this.
Sorry i dont get this fine balancing they dont do it when the thing is new plus other stuff spinning when its running will over ride the fine balancing anyway. Drilling clutch housings and flywheels you are playing with impending diaster. You can drill it out but you cant put it back
I find it amazing that armchair experts that clearly don't know what they are talking about are so keen to stick their oar in, when Lee has been successfully building engines for years. Rotating components ARE balanced at the factory, but on this older stuff typically not as accurately as you want. Bear in mind many of the engines that Barum works on will be used in competition, and will be revving higher (sometimes much higher) than they would from the factory. Drilling small balancing holes in the periphery of the flywheel is perfectly fine, again this is typically how it was done at the factory. The clutch housing is steel and doesn't have the brittle failure modes of cast iron or the amount of hoop stress as the flywheel.
The better an engine balance the longer the life and less chance of something failing at higher revs
Do flywheels and clutch housings break often? I haven't seen any in for repair ...
Also the small hole he drilled in the flywheel was 180 degrees away from the first larger hole which goes to show he took too much meat off in the first place right?
@@ferrumignis It gives them a change from complaining about the weather ...
If you are genuinely and sincerely fond of a colleague who you have known for some time do you really need to insert the word ‘mate’ into virtually every sentence when talking to them?
😂😂😂
I use darling instead of mate.
No mate.