Great video and Brian has been preaching this for years. Ninety percent of my pads I use are waffle pads and the purple wool. Otherwise I just wet sand! Thank you for all of your work put into videos!
Very cool. My guess was the wool pad, because I was paying attention in the Apex detail Brian class. Brian.....I just used my rotor for a paint correction last Saturday, and I think I'm getting the hang of it better. Thank you!
When you hear that sound of the surface vibrating. It’s because the thing that is vibrating is the tool, which in turn transfers that vibration to the panel. There are two major concerns about that kind of noise when doing this job. First, that means that SOMETHING is slipping and grabbing in quick succession, which means that the coefficient of friction isn’t remotely uniform across the face of the pad, so add product but only enough to cover the pad UNIFORMLY, and only a moderate film thickness; not just a glaze, and not like icing on a cake. This vibration tends to accentuate the problem rather than fix it. For every little bounce, the product is being bunched into smaller and smaller sections, which means some parts of the surface are receiving more dangerous impacts than necessary, and the other panel that came on the car pump
The Lake country hybrid wool are my favourites! Just bought and tried the waffle pad. Liked it much more than flat foam and didn’t like microfibre other than the urifibre pad.
@@johnp8120 Yeah I didn't know that either. Several years ago I had bought some wool pads and didn't own a rotary. I could not figure out why I was hardly getting any correction with my DA and wool. Bought a rotary and now rotary with wool is my fav combo, super fast with heavy duty correction.
Great video Brian. Thanks for video may i ask what is the difference between blue hybrid wool pad & purple foamed wool pad Before I buy one of these because I'm just a poor person.
I'm new to buffing my car. I want a pad to use to apply wax (waffle, flat-foam, small dimple or microfiber bonnet). Then, I want to know if I can use a pad to remove the wax or do that by hand? Once all the wax is removed, do I then use a wool to dry polish the car?
Keep in mind when the clear gets hot....it swells...hiding imperfections. So keep the area within 20 degrees of the rest of the panel you are working on.
Why did you change polishers for the wool pad . Polishers also generate a lot of heat so to go from the hot and well worked DA to the cool and unused rotary gave the wool pad the advantage .
It can exceed 200 degrees. But keep in mind the panel is reacting to the heat as a whole.....not one little concentrated area within the panel during correction.
Exactly my argument. If a guy parks a car behind a wall in the cool shade but there is a small gap in the wall, which allows a strip of baking sun to hit a small section of the paint, does this area of paint fail prematurely? Of course it doesn't.
You’re leaving out a variable and so did they. The clear coat certainly softens, but there is no outside influence on where that coat goes. If you were to take a microfiber towel, dry, and run the paint across from where the sun was not hitting it to where it was some 20-80 degrees hotter, you’d notice that the hot clear would have a little more “grab”, and with a bit more pressure you’d start moving that coat around a bit, making imperfections which are exactly the opposite of what we want. My point is that left alone, even hot, it won’t ruin it. But if you are doing too aggressive of correction on that blazing hot clear coat, you could ruin that coat, easily. I’ve applied heat to a run which had not cured on a nearly horizontal surface and watched it slip away into uniformity. On a vertical surface, if it’s not dry ENOUGH, it will tend to drip with a finer sag. Allow it dry just a little after flash off, and that drip will be more uniform across the width of the run.
Old cars have different material clear coat and can take heat, new vehicles do not, heat will damage the clear coat quick. As he recommends, just a little more than the rest of the panel.
I watch your videos all the time. In the case of this video, it's a little misleading in that the wool pad was used on a rotary which only spins. A dual action will create more heat since it's moving in two different ways at the same time. I would love to see the same test done using a DA compatible wool pad such as the DIY Detail one on the same dual action polisher. It would also be great to see how the throw of the machine affects the temps. Perhaps try an 8mm, 15mm and a 21mm with the same pad.
Na if you think about the pattern of the random orbital is just that, random, the oscillation means that the pad doesent touch the same area as often as a rotary which has a consistent pattern and higher speed over said area. Also a rotary rotates hence rpm matters. A random orbital is not, and we dont use rpm moren than on the drive shaft. The actual free spinning oscillation frequency is then much less and also depends on pad, pressure etc variables. You transfer much more energy through a rotary. Test, take a da crank it up to max, hold it in one spot, take a rotary same pad and do the same...i promise you that if the pad survives the clear will smoke from the rotary first. 😅 I guess this is why Brian made his point, eg the wool runs coolest even though the rotary is more "aggressive".
For a paint enhancement or very minor correction on black paint with old thin soft clearcoat (2007 Acura MDX), should I try a finish wool pad (like a Lake Country purple wool) because they run cooler? I've always used light polishing/finishing foam or Urofiber 50/50. Naturally a test spot would apply here but just wondering if I should buy one of these wool pads or not. TIA!
@@apexdetail85 whenever I watch your videos it’s always a class session I take seriously. Til this day one of my deep interior cleaners is 1oz of Cold water Tide, 1oz Oxyclean, 1oz Super Clean and 1oz of Dawn. It’s frickken fantastic. As always thank you Brian for sharing your knowledge. Glad to say I’m one of your virtual pupils 🫡
So im not denying that too much heat is bad and cooler is better. But, i think as detailers we over complicate things at times. Im not saying go out and allow the paint to get scorching, but when was the last time you saw paint fail because somebody got the paint warm (not scorching) during normal buffing? Id be willing to put money on the fact that if you left that panel out around that back of the shop for the next 10 years and then inspected it, the areas where you used the 'hottest' foam pad would look no different to the area that you used the cooler running wool pad. In my opinion (for what its worth), all these pads and levels of heat are just as safe as each other and none are going to cause any kind of premature failure. My favourite pads are the Lake country CCS pads. I dont know, i just find they run smoother and feel nicer. I also quite like the Flexipads hex groove pads
@apexdetail85 Ad hominem replies are not smart. Don't ever take your car out in the baking sun if you're that scared of a foam pad, creating a moderate temporary warming of the paint.
I was watching this video with my gf. She says to be "hunny, the pads you use the most are the two hottest. You might want to fix that." Once again the boss is right.
Heres what you didnt tell people. 1. this will only occur more with a rotary which is what your using. 2. When you move that slow and go back over the same exact path then yeah its going to get hot. 3. Most people are using a DA for whole car polishing which creates less heat 4. Wool pads are the Most aggressive PERIOD. So your little tests arent real life situations.
Maybe don’t set such a bad example by setting ANYTHING, much less the heavy tool, on the surface you are working on. Maybe have a table or another flat surface that holds things(rhymes with cable) to keep them within reach. Maybe a slightly faster sweep across a section.
Maybe don’t set such a bad example by setting ANYTHING, much less the heavy tool, on the surface you are working on. Maybe have a table or another flat surface that holds things(rhymes with cable) to keep them within reach. Maybe a slightly faster sweep across a section.
What are your favorite pads?
Wool and 50/50 euro pads
Rupes yellow wool!
Uro fiber 50/50
All great choices!!👍🏻
koch line of pads work well.
Great video and Brian has been preaching this for years. Ninety percent of my pads I use are waffle pads and the purple wool. Otherwise I just wet sand! Thank you for all of your work put into videos!
Great test! Maybe should have kept it consistent and used the wool pad on the DA.
Excellent video for a topic and discussion Brian. I’m a fan of the lake country dimple pads .
Great video Brian, I keep a spray bottle of clean water handy, especially for the cutting phase.
Excellent, helpful video. Thanks Brian!
Very cool. My guess was the wool pad, because I was paying attention in the Apex detail Brian class.
Brian.....I just used my rotor for a paint correction last Saturday, and I think I'm getting the hang of it better. Thank you!
Yes! Cheers!
Very informative video Brian and it goes to show the rotary is a perfectly good machine in the right hands 👍
It sure is!
Very interesting and informative video Brian!
When you hear that sound of the surface vibrating. It’s because the thing that is vibrating is the tool, which in turn transfers that vibration to the panel. There are two major concerns about that kind of noise when doing this job. First, that means that SOMETHING is slipping and grabbing in quick succession, which means that the coefficient of friction isn’t remotely uniform across the face of the pad, so add product but only enough to cover the pad UNIFORMLY, and only a moderate film thickness; not just a glaze, and not like icing on a cake. This vibration tends to accentuate the problem rather than fix it. For every little bounce, the product is being bunched into smaller and smaller sections, which means some parts of the surface are receiving more dangerous impacts than necessary, and the other panel that came on the car pump
Interface pad some cases density can also effect temp. The worst is trying to knock clear down in HUMIDITY. 😊 9:46
This was very informative Brian! Thank you so very much!!
The Lake country hybrid wool are my favourites! Just bought and tried the waffle pad. Liked it much more than flat foam and didn’t like microfibre other than the urifibre pad.
Nice video Brian. This is good info.
Glad to see you still putting out content 🔥🔥🔥
I am just getting started!!😁👍🏻
Would love to see you discussion with DIY detail about not using a wool pad with a DA???
Nice video, Brian.
The lineup is what I expected. As more and more rotary Information is being shared it seems like it’s not so scary
It is not scarry....it is fun to work with.
Another informative video Brian 👊🏼Great information ✊
Do you have an updated link list for the pads you used in this demo?
Why did you switch to a rotory for the wool pad?
Wool pads should only be run on a rotary. On a DA....it is a waste of time.
@apexdetail85 Thank you for the information, I didn't know that, I've never used wool pads, and this is good to know.
@@johnp8120 Yeah I didn't know that either. Several years ago I had bought some wool pads and didn't own a rotary. I could not figure out why I was hardly getting any correction with my DA and wool. Bought a rotary and now rotary with wool is my fav combo, super fast with heavy duty correction.
Great video thanks . What type of pad and Polish with DA polisher and speed to Jewel polish paint highest gloss can get on new car
Great video Brian. Thanks for video may i ask what is the difference between blue hybrid wool pad & purple foamed wool pad Before I buy one of these because I'm just a poor person.
Very great advice!! Thanks Brian! 👍🏼🇨🇦
I'm new to buffing my car. I want a pad to use to apply wax (waffle, flat-foam, small dimple or microfiber bonnet). Then, I want to know if I can use a pad to remove the wax or do that by hand? Once all the wax is removed, do I then use a wool to dry polish the car?
Very good video.
Almost all factual.
Does pad temperature equate to the degree of cut? In your test was it possible to see which pad gave the best level of correction?
Keep in mind when the clear gets hot....it swells...hiding imperfections. So keep the area within 20 degrees of the rest of the panel you are working on.
Hi Brian, was your posted answer intended for another question?
Very informative video! Thank you
Why did you change polishers for the wool pad . Polishers also generate a lot of heat so to go from the hot and well worked DA to the cool and unused rotary gave the wool pad the advantage .
How hot does the paint surface get if the vehicle is in the sun for say 20 minutes?
It can exceed 200 degrees. But keep in mind the panel is reacting to the heat as a whole.....not one little concentrated area within the panel during correction.
Exactly my argument. If a guy parks a car behind a wall in the cool shade but there is a small gap in the wall, which allows a strip of baking sun to hit a small section of the paint, does this area of paint fail prematurely? Of course it doesn't.
You’re leaving out a variable and so did they. The clear coat certainly softens, but there is no outside influence on where that coat goes. If you were to take a microfiber towel, dry, and run the paint across from where the sun was not hitting it to where it was some 20-80 degrees hotter, you’d notice that the hot clear would have a little more “grab”, and with a bit more pressure you’d start moving that coat around a bit, making imperfections which are exactly the opposite of what we want. My point is that left alone, even hot, it won’t ruin it. But if you are doing too aggressive of correction on that blazing hot clear coat, you could ruin that coat, easily. I’ve applied heat to a run which had not cured on a nearly horizontal surface and watched it slip away into uniformity. On a vertical surface, if it’s not dry ENOUGH, it will tend to drip with a finer sag. Allow it dry just a little after flash off, and that drip will be more uniform across the width of the run.
What's with the heat concerns? You know how hot that clear coat gets in the blazing summer heat in full sun? Especially in the desert.
Great video
Thanks!
What about the low nap wool pads?
I just corrected a green BMW i4 m50 with Oberk Sole and a Orange LC CCs pad. BMW paint is fairly easy to correct
What’s that dewalt tool called? Great vid
Another awesome video brother
Thanks again!
What about your urofiber 50/50 pad?
Hmm why changed the polisher for the wool pad at the end? That might have some impacts on the results
Wool should only be used on a rotary.
What is the ideal temp? Does cooler mean better or consistent mean better? At what heat point do the pads lose their effectiveness?
Keep the area you are working in within 20 degrees of the rest of the panel.
Old cars have different material clear coat and can take heat, new vehicles do not, heat will damage the clear coat quick. As he recommends, just a little more than the rest of the panel.
Euro fiber. Great video learned alot
Glad it was helpful!
I watch your videos all the time. In the case of this video, it's a little misleading in that the wool pad was used on a rotary which only spins. A dual action will create more heat since it's moving in two different ways at the same time. I would love to see the same test done using a DA compatible wool pad such as the DIY Detail one on the same dual action polisher. It would also be great to see how the throw of the machine affects the temps. Perhaps try an 8mm, 15mm and a 21mm with the same pad.
Wool on a DA is useless. To utilyse the wool fibers to the fullest.....put is on a rotary polisher. Give that dual action a break good sir.
@@apexdetail85the short nap purple foamed wool work fantastic on a DA. Same goes for any short nap wool.
that’s a strange comment Brian? surely either use all on a rotary or d.a?
Na if you think about the pattern of the random orbital is just that, random, the oscillation means that the pad doesent touch the same area as often as a rotary which has a consistent pattern and higher speed over said area. Also a rotary rotates hence rpm matters. A random orbital is not, and we dont use rpm moren than on the drive shaft. The actual free spinning oscillation frequency is then much less and also depends on pad, pressure etc variables. You transfer much more energy through a rotary. Test, take a da crank it up to max, hold it in one spot, take a rotary same pad and do the same...i promise you that if the pad survives the clear will smoke from the rotary first. 😅 I guess this is why Brian made his point, eg the wool runs coolest even though the rotary is more "aggressive".
Amazing video and content good friend
How do you like using the dewalt 20v polisher?
For a paint enhancement or very minor correction on black paint with old thin soft clearcoat (2007 Acura MDX), should I try a finish wool pad (like a Lake Country purple wool) because they run cooler? I've always used light polishing/finishing foam or Urofiber 50/50. Naturally a test spot would apply here but just wondering if I should buy one of these wool pads or not. TIA!
Yes....always the least aggressive method first. Step up from there.
Great demonstration of how the scary big bad rotary and wool combo isn’t so scary after all 🍻🍻🍻🍻
Waffle pad made my TCP global? Trying to find reputable reviews on the pad quality.
Nice tutorial
Thank you! Cheers!
Badass lookn color on that bmw
It’s different… that is for sure!
This is truly good TV😃👌
B what do you think about sanding past 3000 grit? Going to 4k or 5k? Waste of time, or useful?
Do what ever you want buddy…
3k grit is easily polished out…I personally stop there.
Purple foamed wool is the best cutting pad ever.
Agreed.
Wool will run the coolest I believe
Bingo!
@@apexdetail85 whenever I watch your videos it’s always a class session I take seriously. Til this day one of my deep interior cleaners is 1oz of Cold water Tide, 1oz Oxyclean, 1oz Super Clean and 1oz of Dawn. It’s frickken fantastic. As always thank you Brian for sharing your knowledge. Glad to say I’m one of your virtual pupils 🫡
So im not denying that too much heat is bad and cooler is better. But, i think as detailers we over complicate things at times. Im not saying go out and allow the paint to get scorching, but when was the last time you saw paint fail because somebody got the paint warm (not scorching) during normal buffing? Id be willing to put money on the fact that if you left that panel out around that back of the shop for the next 10 years and then inspected it, the areas where you used the 'hottest' foam pad would look no different to the area that you used the cooler running wool pad. In my opinion (for what its worth), all these pads and levels of heat are just as safe as each other and none are going to cause any kind of premature failure. My favourite pads are the Lake country CCS pads. I dont know, i just find they run smoother and feel nicer. I also quite like the Flexipads hex groove pads
I just have to say this....work on modern water based clear more and more then get back to me.
@apexdetail85 Ad hominem replies are not smart. Don't ever take your car out in the baking sun if you're that scared of a foam pad, creating a moderate temporary warming of the paint.
Wool hands down
I was watching this video with my gf. She says to be "hunny, the pads you use the most are the two hottest. You might want to fix that."
Once again the boss is right.
I like the DIY red pad and there yellow pad
Heres what you didnt tell people. 1. this will only occur more with a rotary which is what your using.
2. When you move that slow and go back over the same exact path then yeah its going to get hot.
3. Most people are using a DA for whole car polishing which creates less heat
4. Wool pads are the Most aggressive PERIOD.
So your little tests arent real life situations.
Not a great video. I just bought a brand new rotor buffer. I do not know about the patch. It’s good to cut out a memo. Great video.
Safest? I’m all ears already.
Maybe don’t set such a bad example by setting ANYTHING, much less the heavy tool, on the surface you are working on. Maybe have a table or another flat surface that holds things(rhymes with cable) to keep them within reach. Maybe a slightly faster sweep across a section.
waffle pad is my guess
Everybody is using Polish pads
Im using German pads
Dewalt 💀
First!!!!
Great video
Maybe don’t set such a bad example by setting ANYTHING, much less the heavy tool, on the surface you are working on. Maybe have a table or another flat surface that holds things(rhymes with cable) to keep them within reach. Maybe a slightly faster sweep across a section.