HOW TO: COIL SPRING change/replacement, front coil, PEUGEOT 207
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 лип 2024
- Welcome to Piggypower... In this video a brief guide on removing and installing a FRONT coil spring on a Peugeot 207.
This specific 207 is a 1.4 16v petrol, but the basics apply to all models.
Any questions, please feel free to use the comments.
Please ensure you feel confident to complete this task safely, Piggypower takes no responsibility for any consequences from poor workmanship following this guide.
If you think you cannot do this job safely, take it to a professional.
Stay Safe.
Social media stuff:
/ piggypowerofficial
/ piggy.power - Авто та транспорт
Best video on UA-cam by far! Clear,well explained and edited. Thankyou.👍
Thanks, appreciate that! 👌🐷
Brilliant, great explanation, good lighting warnings of potential injurys, well done A+++
Thankyou 👌🐷
Just done this. The method works well, but its easy for the driveshaft to loosen, and spill a bit of gearbox oil. Have to stress that's not the end of the world, but you have to try and keep the drives haft pushed in of you can. A few things not covered in the video. On many 207s there is a hole on the rubber mount on top of the shock, that should be positioned in line with the hole on the car body mounting point which is pointing towards the engine. I used a small screwdriver poking though to align it. The other thing that REALLY flummoxed me was all sorts of clanging over bumps when I completed the job which I thought was a bad mounting bearing, as it really sounded like it was from the top of the car, then maybe bad strut, then bad spring. It was none of these things but I really thought the strut was jumping out the mount because of the noises over even the smallest bump. After days of messing about, changing the strut about 5 times, I finally found it was the swaybar/droplink. Unbelievable. Worth replacing it if at all suspect it's such a cheap but vital part.
It's quite common with most fwd vehicles for the driveshaft to pop out if you're not careful.
The hole/locating point is a good shout but you can't miss it. It's sort of self aligning.
The ARB link is a seperate issue. Yes related to suspension but I can't cover every suspension component in a video about one specific item... Or the video would be 5hrs long 🤣👍🐷
Glad you got it all fixed up 👍👍👍🐷
How much is reasonable to pay a garage to replace all 4 coil springs
Так тоже не придержал вал и вытекло масло,, терерь знаю уже,, что надо закрепить вал в коробке, так как нет там кольца и легко вал выходит,,
Thanks mate for the great vid and tips, i have just done it on my car without issues
Well done! Pat on the back and an ice lolly for you!
Great video piggy power, very nicely explained 👌👍😀
👌🐷💪
great !!! upload more peugeot 207 videos!
Do I have to 😂🙈
Great job 👍
Thankyou 👌
Just attempted this, for anyone trying this at home I would recommend getting a strut splitter as ours wouldn't budge with a hammer. I also couldn't get enough clearance between the hub and strut for it to come out, eventually I had to split the bottom ball joint and track rod end to and remove the hub. For reassembly, we had to use the strut splitter again as the whole weight of the car was not enough to re-seat the strut.
All in all, really good video, but far easier with a strut splitter and removal of bottom ball joint and track rod end :)
I have no idea what a strut splitter is... So assuming that in 15yrs I've never needed one 😂 I have seem people need to split the bottom ball joint to get the strut out but if you lever the lower arm down, it's always been possible. . Still super pleased to have feedback AND you here you managed it all without taking someone's face off with a spring 🙈😂👌🐷
@@PiggyPower A strut splitter is just a small set of jaws that opens the clamp on the hub, makes things dead easy. The car must have swam the channel a few times it was that corroded. Thought I would get away without using them on reassembly but it took the weight of the car and still wouldn't re-seat until I got the splitter out again (and that was with a new strut) 😂
@@halezy9681 ahh I see. Big hammer does the trick. Alternatively I just use a square drive 1/2" socket and insert in the slot and turn 45°
@@PiggyPower Sealy do a set of 1/2" strut splitters / leg prys, basically a wedge (sx034) but they're not as good as the jaws, which open up about 11mm. I've only had to use the splitters a few times but they are worth their weight in gold when dealing with aquatic cars.
Well explained video, PP 😀👍
Thanks Ian 😁👍
🐷💪
Love a piggy video! Always makes me want to get another pug
Just don't get a 207 👌😂
🐷💪
@@PiggyPower ....or a 307! What a bag of bobbins! No idea what 308 are like though.
The first 308... Just a 307 with styling changes. Not terrible. Just boring.
@@PiggyPower Reminds me of some guys in the comments of other car repair videos saying Volvos are old men's cars, and yet I am seeing more and more young guys doing restoration videos on them. Check out this girl who is defo not boring! ua-cam.com/channels/qLgN1y3Du5UPPALNmadLyA.htmlvideos
@@EgoShredder I liked the (rhr)16v diesel engine/box combination sadly the rest of the car was average
If anyone struggling to get it out the hub jack the strutt up with a peice of wood to compress the shock/spring
While I can't say this doesn't work nor that I've done it. I don't advise it due to the safety implications if something slips. I've seen pretty nasty injuries when they do
Great video ive just done this and was very helpful. Only problem i had the drive shaft came out slightly and lost some gearbox oil. So decided to drain and refill gearbox. I just pushed drive shaft back in but i could see a rubber seal. Should i have pushed the shaft further in just worried i haven't got shaft back in and may leak oil.
Hi there... Yes, classic newbie fail, don't worry, I've done it too! If it's not sealing...it will be leaking all the time, you'd notice immediately. So if it's not leaking everywhere... It's fine. Good to do a gearbox oil change once in a while, they often get overlooked. PSA choice is Total Gear 8. Has certain ingredients that no other oil has. 👍🐷💪
Thanks for the reply. No sign of a leak so hopefully ok. Yes i tried not to pull shaft out until i heard oil trickling out.🤦♂️
Well done. School fees. You'll know next time
I did same thing and
lost some oil :(
Do you remember how did you top it up?
And what type of gear oil you used ?
My car is 207 2008 1.6hdi
just went to take the strut out on my 207 1.6 hdi and the big nut holding the driveshaft in is a bit bigger, i measured it at 34.5mm with a calliper. not sure if its the original one or not.
Wont be 34.5mm. be a 35 👌
nice one
Thanks 🐷💪
Could you please tell us the mark of the coil spring that you used to ur car Peugeot 207? Because I have Peugeot 207 and I don't know which colis are compatible to my car..
Thanks ❤
Different manufacturers are available to different stores in different countries. Use a trustworthy local motor factors. Give them your registration. Pay them. Walk away happy. 👍🐖
Attempted this job today and all was going well until I tried to get the strut out of the hub. It was free to move around in there but the drive shaft was hitting the lower frame of the car and I couldn't get the hub down any further once the drive shaft hit this lower frame. I'd say I had 10 or 15 mm of the shock left in the hub at this point. I tried disconnecting the tie rod ends and I removed the lower ball joint nut and bolt but could not get the ball joint to split.
Bolt the hub up tight to the strut again and big lever bar on the lower arm, big smack with a hammer... She'll drop down
Thanks for the quick reply and on a Sunday too. Do you think once I separate the lower arm ball joint I will be able to remove the strut from the hub. Thanks again, great video and very informative.
@@mick111112 you'll be able to drop the hub off the strut... Giving you the same result. If you've not already, remove the brake caliper and disc as they double the wright of the hub and I don't wish you to damage them.
Thank you
Looks very similar to my 206. The brake caliper looks exact the same.
Similar yes. Not the same. Most calipers and fwd single wishnone McPherson strut setups look the same tbh
Nice job, but i had to remove ball joint to get strut out. Anyway nice video .
Shouldn't have to at all! There is plenty of space, just lever the arm down a little
I had the same issue as well
Hello!
I have a 2008 207 peugeot for which i changed the strut for 3 times in a couple of month at 2 mechanichs and also at the dealer. The issue is that the bearing on the strut makes squeeqing noises when the car handles potholes or speed bumps. What do you recomend to do, else than scrapping the car 😂?
Did any of them actually change the strut top bearing????
@@PiggyPower yes, i have the original peugeot ones plus 2 other sets (Sachs and oem made in france from the dealer) at home. Now on the car are SNR. I personaly watched the process and they changed them. I watched if the mounted them properly and they did. The problem started after i changed the shock absorbers but the noise is not commong from there. The 3rd mechanic greased the area where the bearing is in contact with the strut and this has worked for a couple of weeks but now , the noise is back.
Sure it's actually the struts? Not the ARB link bushes
@@PiggyPower yes, is the struts. I can hear the noise from up above and the noise appeared just after changing the shock absorbers. Can it be because of not using the recomended torque for the nuts?
No. Either the struts are faulty or it's something else by coincidence. Dry ARB bushes or droplinks. Can easily rule them out by disconnecting them. Short test drive. If it turns out to be the top mounts again, squeaky... Remove. Clean surfaces. Apply silicone spray lubricant and torque to spec.
I recently had the o/s track rod end changed and the n/s cv boot kit replaced on our 207. Since then when I'm maneuvering at slow speeds (especially when reversing) there's a terrible creaking noise which wasn't there before the work was done. Any ideas what could be causing it so I can go back to the garage and not sound clue less, thanks 👍👍
Don't worry if you sound clueless... The garage are the experts you are paying to help you... Explain the noise wasn't there before... And is now, in detail describe the noise and when it occurs. All the information you can provide makes their life easier... Plus garages hate being told what it is ... It's like being told how to do your job. That's my advice 👍😀🐷
@@PiggyPower Thank you. The work was done as the car had failed it's MOT on these items. I know that the labour charge was double what it should have been because 'bolts on lower arm and track rod end took longer than normal to remove'. I noticed the noise the very next day. I'd hate to think I'll be paying for something that has come about as a result of the work done (rushed). They are extremely busy and managed to somehow 'squeeze me in' the day after the MOT failure. Which I was grateful for.
Yeah it's got to be something they are willing to investigate. I'm surprised they charged so much more for a couple of tight bolts.
Hi - The replacement spring length on my 206 1.4L 2006 is 375mm - When buying a Spring compressor they often have a max extension length of 280mm - would this still be suitable?
You don't use the spring compressors on the entire length of the spring 😉
@@PiggyPower its just that in your video you said you only had a few threads at the top even after using full compression with your spring compressor and the coil springs are usually tall for the 207 front suspension. I think 375mm to 400mm long.
Yes. But you don't put the compressors on the top and bottom coils or you'd never get them out 😉
@@PiggyPower finished the job, I bought a set of heavy duty spring compressors with a locking brace so it cannot slip from amazon for 45 quid. You do need them at near maximum length of 28cm but they compress the spring well.
Is this procedure the same for a 206 1.4,thanks
Very similar
Do u have to take of centre hub nut
You don't HAVE to no. But if you're worried about pulling the shaft out the gearbox, it's a good idea to, then tap the CV joint through the hub. But if you're careful, no need.
When trying to refit the strut into the hub how do you prevent the hub from turning in when jacking it up, tried this and the strut keeps slipping out
Bit of technique. Not sure what you mean by turning .. but if it's turning, why is it then slipping out? Figure that out and stop whatever it is causing it to turn/slip. 👍👍 You're nearly there 👍🐷
thanks for the response , what I meant by turning in if you grabbed the disc one hand on the bottom and one hand onthe top and pulled with the bottom and pushed with the top the disc will angle inwards the more pressure is applied as its not fixed straight up and down. Hence slipping out as you jack up . regards @@PiggyPower
Get it sat on the edge. Push on the top of the hub/disc while gently jacking up under the ball joint 👍🐷
In the video there is missing bit with putting strut back in place. I've just done 207 from 2007 and without help of my mate it wouldn't be possible. Even when lower arm is pressed down there is still overlapping 2 inch of strut and hub, in this case I had to compress (jacking up) a little the strut assembly and luckily it went in.
More effort with taking balljoint out and would be easier job for one man.
There shouldn't be an issue there. Shouldn't need to do that on a 207 at all. I didn't remove anything and work alone, went in easily.
I just replaced my spring, but after refitting the strut, I realised the plastic clip was still attached to the end of my old spring.
Is the plastic clip essential, or can I do without?
The plastic clip?? Unsure what part you mean?
@@PiggyPower
The piece of plastic that you clip over the end of the spring before you seat the spring against the strut plate.It's a kind of shield that prevents metal to metal contact.
Is this the shape of the spring or a cup like shape? If it's a cup like shape, it's quite important.
@@PiggyPower It covers the first eight inches or so of the spring coil, the spring sits directly on this, and this sits on the strut plate.The plastic guard thingamajig.
Send me a picture on Instagram or Facebook 👍
Great video. Inspired me to do the same. However I am way much slower than you in it.
gauge
Take your time. Do it once and do it right and do it safe 👍🐷
@@PiggyPower I wanted to ask you how tight you compress the spring? 9:22 How far you drive that nut? ( I don't have torque gauge.)
@@gomla8187 if you can buy a torque gauge/wrench they are pretty inexpensive and you'll never regret it. Those nuts go "right" though. 75nm is about 75% as tight as most wheel nuts to give you a ROUGH idea
Thanks for your upload. I just wanted to ask how you didn't fuck the coil springs up(scratch them to the metal) with these spanners but then I saw the marks of the beast. This technique was sadly not possible for my 207 Peugeot (2006). Well I did get the spring out(because it was broken) but I couldn't get it in anymore with a new spring. My strut assembly looks a bit different too(strut diameter=51mm). Anyway still interesting. Thanks
Yeah it will mark them a little bit. But not drastically. I can't see why it wouldn't work for your 207? I've done a bunch of different 207s all the same method.
What engine is yours?
I guess im randomly asking but does anyone know of a method to get back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost my login password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Carl Joshua Instablaster =)
@Ephraim Zachariah thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Ephraim Zachariah it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account !
If only I'd seen your vid before taking my car in to
Citroens today for replacement spring as they are charging me over
£400 for one front spring . And it's taking them four day's. Silly me
Whaaaat?? Never change springs in singles either in honesty, professionals should know that.
It's about a 2hr job in total. 👍🐷
Good video, be careful that centre nut, holding the spring, if u tighten it down too much, the coils will be too close to each other once the car is on the deck, and knock. ....
I appreciate your comment but I hope no one follows your advice. The centre nut seats down against the top of the damper strut. The only thing that would happen if you continued to do that nut up (overtighten/overtorque) is stripped threads. The coils on almost every car do touch when the car is level and at rest and certainly touch when going over undulations in the road. If you have "knocking", it's something else worn or loose.
@@PiggyPower👍👍, definitely shouldn't touch, didn't say that.. check when vehicle is on the floor.. centre nut is torqued tp 60 tp 80 nm..
@@andyg817 correct. But the nut is not torqued against the resistance of the coil spring.
IF I'M NOT WRONG, but prove me please, i didn't have any space on the other side to pull the shock out without getting the axle out aswell :(
Just a wiggle and a dance. No need to remove the driveshaft for either side
@@PiggyPower thanks brav, ill try it the next time
Супер,,, шаровую совсем не снимали и шруз не вынимали,,, ваааав...
Indeed, no need to do those things 👍🐷
I always use copper grease on my reassembly 😮😮!!
On everything? Lol... Use it sparingly and only where needed 👍🐷
Click mechanic want £288 for that particular job
I'm sure they do... Life risk 😂🙈