Cool! Great fix, Jason. Car runs and sounds so fricken good! Looking at a 2012 GT w/22,000 miles, one owner. Tempting, but kinda pricey. Thanks for the video!
Yeah, the 5.0L is one of the best sounding engines I've ever heard. Mod motors have always sounded great, but this one as at the top of the heap. I don't think you would regret the purchase. The Boss wasn't cheap, but I don't regret it in the least, it's an amazing car
@@316Autosthanks for the video. Do you know any rebuild kit making the MT82 beefy? Or any rebuilding kit out there your recommend? Unfortunately, the car is overseas.
@@goofylevitates8853 My contingency plan was swapping in a TR6060 or T56, but Calimer builds some gnarly MT82's, so I am sure you can find a decent stage 2 or 3 kit out there, I just don't know enough about them to make a recommendation.
@@316Autos in your opinion what is better the T56 or TR6060 in terms of preformannce? And what is best when it comes to dollar value? Does such swap for 2014 Ford mustang gt needs anything else other than the gearbox unit ? The car has about 600-700 whp. And gear issue isn't fun 😢
@@goofylevitates8853 The 6060 and the T56 are basically the same transmission. The 6060 being a little stronger. If you get a 6060 out of a GT500, it's basically a bolt in. Clutch and driveshaft might be different.
2019 gt aluminator 5.0L engine n/a 12:1 Calimer mt-82d stage2 cyro treated mirco polish with carbon synchro rings billet forks Mantic 9000 clutch MGW spec 2 short shifter boobma transmission mount MMR pulse ring DSS drive line G force half shafts FPH differential Steeda differential brace BMR drive shaft guard BMR stop the hop kit and k brace smooth as butter and rock solid 😊
I was just driving my 16 GT and went to shift from 2nd to 3rd and it got stuck in 2nd, the shifter moves freely with little resistance but it won't engage any other gear. Any ideas? Haven't gotten it apart yet
The NVH was Horrible.. I pulled that Insert right back out.. OMG it was bad.. I left the Steeda Body Mount bracket in but that's it.. If you don't want your car to shake at 2500 RPM and make noise don't do it.. Your shift knob feel's like holding on too a running lawn mower..
Hi again, can you please help me!!! 😢😭😭 I have a automatic 1989 Ford Crown Victoria LTD 5.0 302, I have the EFI version if that matters. I need a fuel pump and assembly but every single one on every site Ford included has parts MISSING. Which specific complements should I absolutely be getting? I have the pump that goes in the tank. For example there are assemblies that have no fuel pressure sensor, wiring harness, sending unit etc. They are all missing something.
That's a weird one. I would get one with the sending unit for sure, because that is your gas gauge, or look for a used assembly and just change the pump portion.
@@briizcustoms9543 I don't think it's going to do much good for me to see pics. The must haves are going to be the strainer, harness, pump, and sending unit. If it has a pressure sensor, it's going to need it, but it sounds odd for something that old to have one. Finding this stuff new is the tricky part, I've found threads going back 10 years of people trying to find the sending units with no luck.
Sold the car, but in the months that I had it, I would say the shifts were 75-80% better. It never gave the lockout in the 6-6700 RPM range, but would occasionally give trouble above that. The clutch is the surefire, 100% fix for it. The steeda insert is 555-4037, the barton mount is item 27306 on American Muscle website.
@@316Autos Thx for the feedback. I’ve got two buddies of mine, one went with just the MGW shifter, and the other one went with a Barton shifter plus Blowfish bracket - both 100% eliminated lockout up to 7500 rpm shifts with their 2012/2013 Bosses. No clutch change from stock. Just another couple of data points for us.
@@lglturbo No problem. Yeah, that's why I always go with the easier and cheaper option first. Better to spend $125 and an hour of your time, and even if it doesn't fix it, you have much crisper shifts. In my case, like 2 times out of 20, it would be harder to shift at super high RPM.
@@316Autos I forgot if you had a Boss or not. My Boss redlines at 7500 rpm. I short shift it between 6500 and 7000 rpm and usually don’t get a lockout. I’m wondering if your two fixes would eliminate the lockout at 7500. Is your application a 7500 rpm redline?
@@lglturbo Yeah, mine was a Boss. Anything over 6K was giving me trouble. Then with this stuff all of the 6-7K RPM problems were fixed, but right around that 7-7.5KRPM mark, it would occasionally not want to go into gear.
I tryed everything. Swapping the clutch fixet it. It may get better with heavy duty braided clutcj line and or aftermarket shifter. I like the Barton.@@edwinseymour1487
@@316Autos Trying to find a side mirror and an entire intake housing. Also wondering what cars are compatible as I may be able to just get one of those?
Cool! Great fix, Jason. Car runs and sounds so fricken good! Looking at a 2012 GT w/22,000 miles, one owner. Tempting, but kinda pricey. Thanks for the video!
Yeah, the 5.0L is one of the best sounding engines I've ever heard. Mod motors have always sounded great, but this one as at the top of the heap. I don't think you would regret the purchase. The Boss wasn't cheap, but I don't regret it in the least, it's an amazing car
@@316Autosthanks for the video. Do you know any rebuild kit making the MT82 beefy? Or any rebuilding kit out there your recommend?
Unfortunately, the car is overseas.
@@goofylevitates8853 My contingency plan was swapping in a TR6060 or T56, but Calimer builds some gnarly MT82's, so I am sure you can find a decent stage 2 or 3 kit out there, I just don't know enough about them to make a recommendation.
@@316Autos in your opinion what is better the T56 or TR6060 in terms of preformannce? And what is best when it comes to dollar value? Does such swap for 2014 Ford mustang gt needs anything else other than the gearbox unit ?
The car has about 600-700 whp. And gear issue isn't fun 😢
@@goofylevitates8853 The 6060 and the T56 are basically the same transmission. The 6060 being a little stronger. If you get a 6060 out of a GT500, it's basically a bolt in. Clutch and driveshaft might be different.
2019 gt aluminator 5.0L engine n/a 12:1 Calimer mt-82d stage2 cyro treated mirco polish with carbon synchro rings billet forks Mantic 9000 clutch MGW spec 2 short shifter boobma transmission mount MMR pulse ring DSS drive line G force half shafts FPH differential Steeda differential brace BMR drive shaft guard BMR stop the hop kit and k brace smooth as butter and rock solid 😊
Hahahaha "Hide and seek world champion!!" That right there was enough to get me to subscribe!!
I was just driving my 16 GT and went to shift from 2nd to 3rd and it got stuck in 2nd, the shifter moves freely with little resistance but it won't engage any other gear. Any ideas? Haven't gotten it apart yet
Did u fix it?? That's what happened to mee
The NVH was Horrible.. I pulled that Insert right back out.. OMG it was bad.. I left the Steeda Body Mount bracket in but that's it.. If you don't want your car to shake at 2500 RPM and make noise don't do it.. Your shift knob feel's like holding on too a running lawn mower..
That wasn't my experience at all. Are your motor mounts OK?
Either one do the insert or the transmission mount don't have both or you will have a racing car symphony 😂
Any update on a new clutch kit after this video? Anything else asides from a clutch kit and these mods?
I sold the car. The GM of my local ford dealership wound up buying it and I haven't heard any complaints from him.
Hi again, can you please help me!!! 😢😭😭 I have a automatic 1989 Ford Crown Victoria LTD 5.0 302, I have the EFI version if that matters. I need a fuel pump and assembly but every single one on every site Ford included has parts MISSING. Which specific complements should I absolutely be getting? I have the pump that goes in the tank.
For example there are assemblies that have no fuel pressure sensor, wiring harness, sending unit etc. They are all missing something.
That's a weird one. I would get one with the sending unit for sure, because that is your gas gauge, or look for a used assembly and just change the pump portion.
@@316Autos I would like to get a brand new everything. Do you have an email or something I can send you pictures of it to?
@@briizcustoms9543 I don't think it's going to do much good for me to see pics. The must haves are going to be the strainer, harness, pump, and sending unit. If it has a pressure sensor, it's going to need it, but it sounds odd for something that old to have one. Finding this stuff new is the tricky part, I've found threads going back 10 years of people trying to find the sending units with no luck.
@@316Autos The autozone guy said the same thing for the fuel pressure
@@316Autos What does a sending unit do?
Can you give update on lockouts that you’re experiencing now. Also, what are the part numbers for the Barton bracket and Steeda bushing you used? Thx!
Sold the car, but in the months that I had it, I would say the shifts were 75-80% better. It never gave the lockout in the 6-6700 RPM range, but would occasionally give trouble above that. The clutch is the surefire, 100% fix for it. The steeda insert is 555-4037, the barton mount is item 27306 on American Muscle website.
@@316Autos Thx for the feedback. I’ve got two buddies of mine, one went with just the MGW shifter, and the other one went with a Barton shifter plus Blowfish bracket - both 100% eliminated lockout up to 7500 rpm shifts with their 2012/2013 Bosses. No clutch change from stock. Just another couple of data points for us.
@@lglturbo No problem. Yeah, that's why I always go with the easier and cheaper option first. Better to spend $125 and an hour of your time, and even if it doesn't fix it, you have much crisper shifts. In my case, like 2 times out of 20, it would be harder to shift at super high RPM.
@@316Autos I forgot if you had a Boss or not. My Boss redlines at 7500 rpm. I short shift it between 6500 and 7000 rpm and usually don’t get a lockout. I’m wondering if your two fixes would eliminate the lockout at 7500. Is your application a 7500 rpm redline?
@@lglturbo Yeah, mine was a Boss. Anything over 6K was giving me trouble. Then with this stuff all of the 6-7K RPM problems were fixed, but right around that 7-7.5KRPM mark, it would occasionally not want to go into gear.
1 month update? Any lockout ghost come back?
I've gotten one or two locked out around 7K RPM, but overall much improved. I figure a clutch will finish out the job.
It's the clutch! The OEM geometry is wrong. Any aftermarket clutch will solve the problem.
Do you know of one that’s not to costly but recommend?
I tryed everything. Swapping the clutch fixet it. It may get better with heavy duty braided clutcj line and or aftermarket shifter. I like the Barton.@@edwinseymour1487
Do you know about 1989 Crown Victoria LTD?
Panther platform, 5.0L AOD trans. Never had one specifically, but I will do my best to answer any questions. Whats the problem?
@@316Autos Trying to find a side mirror and an entire intake housing. Also wondering what cars are compatible as I may be able to just get one of those?
@@briizcustoms9543 Check car-part.com. Should be able to find what you need and all of the cross reference.
You shifted at normal shift points …..
I shifted at 6500 and 7000RPM, far from normal, and it wasn't shifting at all in those ranges before.