The warm up regulator controls/changes the fuel control pressure. Specifically it controls the fuel pressure as the car warms up. It has an a bimetal spring in it which opens and closes the valve in it based on temp. So as the engine warms up the control pressure increases to its normal operating pressure.
And that is the gas that goes back to the gas tank correct? When the engine is cold less gas goes back to the gas tank creating more pressure in the CIS, then as the engine warms up more gas goes back to the gas tank lowering the pressure in the CIS. Is this correct? Just trying to learn this system to fix mine
@@ProblemSolverGarage Its confusing because the control pressure is NOT the same thing as the fuel pressure going to the injectors....it actually has the opposite effect. The lower the control pressure means the richer the mixture because the control pressure is what provides the resistance on the metering plate. As the car warms up the control pressure rises adding more resistance to the metering plate and leaning out the mixture. Here's a great video explaining CIS ua-cam.com/video/a4fJAfXYxWk/v-deo.html ....that warmup regulator section starts here ua-cam.com/video/a4fJAfXYxWk/v-deo.html?t=787
I know this is a little late... but that plastic cap is really only for dust. You want the interior of the regulator to be at normal atmospheric pressure so your comment of it being a 'breather' is correct.
Wow, I really wish I had seen this video before I spent hours trying to remove mine earlier this year on my 89 cabriolet. The allen bolts were also stripped so I just blasted the screens with carb cleaner and reconnected the fuel lines. Didn't know how small the openings were inside. Never thought to use a 10mm extractor. Guess I will try again this winter! Looking at the link to the ebay store for the repair kit I see several that look like the kit you used but couldn't find one referencing that part number specifically. They look to be the same but curious if you had a link or their part number of the same one you purchased. There also looks like there is a larger orange o-ring that may go around the wiring plug connector. Did you decide try installing that?
HI. I was striping the WUR and the pin fell down and never found again. do you know if this pin can be purchased along with a kit?, or maybe, you could tell the lenght of it?. Thanks in advance
Hi, great videos. Would you say that a super high running engine (3000 RPM) right after the start is caused by a failure in the WUR? After several minutes the engine runs normal. Thanks for any advice.
@@ShinyFastLoud Thanks! I've used ones from other vendors but decided to get one from Germany since he includes all the hardware that they don't, and the price is about the same. This time I'm working on an '87 Mk 2 .
Those kits are stupidly expensive for what is basically a few bolts and o rings. Unfortunately they don't include the bit that actually fails.. the bi-metalic strip.
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Thank you for posting this , I am striping down and repairing the WUR on my vehicle , it 's a great help to see someone else doing it.
Good luck!
What does the warm-up regulator do exactly? Please and thank you
The warm up regulator controls/changes the fuel control pressure. Specifically it controls the fuel pressure as the car warms up. It has an a bimetal spring in it which opens and closes the valve in it based on temp. So as the engine warms up the control pressure increases to its normal operating pressure.
And that is the gas that goes back to the gas tank correct?
When the engine is cold less gas goes back to the gas tank creating more pressure in the CIS, then as the engine warms up more gas goes back to the gas tank lowering the pressure in the CIS.
Is this correct? Just trying to learn this system to fix mine
Cold engine needs more gasoline to run properly, warm engine needs less gasoline to run properly, this is the only way it makes sense to me
Let me know what you think and if you knew the answer
@@ProblemSolverGarage Its confusing because the control pressure is NOT the same thing as the fuel pressure going to the injectors....it actually has the opposite effect. The lower the control pressure means the richer the mixture because the control pressure is what provides the resistance on the metering plate. As the car warms up the control pressure rises adding more resistance to the metering plate and leaning out the mixture. Here's a great video explaining CIS ua-cam.com/video/a4fJAfXYxWk/v-deo.html ....that warmup regulator section starts here ua-cam.com/video/a4fJAfXYxWk/v-deo.html?t=787
I know this is a little late... but that plastic cap is really only for dust. You want the interior of the regulator to be at normal atmospheric pressure so your comment of it being a 'breather' is correct.
Thank you
Thanks Bud. Our 87 Cabriolet is having some cold run issues at start up. Sounds like this may be the issue.
Good luck. I have another video coming out soon showing a loose ground causing idle issues with the cabby as well.
What about the metallic strip with resistor? Mine ohm’ed out bad. Have a link to replacement for my 87 golf?
Very nice valves cover ))
Thank you very much!
Wow, I really wish I had seen this video before I spent hours trying to remove mine earlier this year on my 89 cabriolet. The allen bolts were also stripped so I just blasted the screens with carb cleaner and reconnected the fuel lines. Didn't know how small the openings were inside. Never thought to use a 10mm extractor. Guess I will try again this winter! Looking at the link to the ebay store for the repair kit I see several that look like the kit you used but couldn't find one referencing that part number specifically. They look to be the same but curious if you had a link or their part number of the same one you purchased. There also looks like there is a larger orange o-ring that may go around the wiring plug connector. Did you decide try installing that?
Message the eBay seller and tell him exactly what you have. He has the correct kit.
Interesting vid mate. But did you make part 2 yet ? Cant find it on your channel.
ua-cam.com/video/cfDmCpjE6A0/v-deo.html
thanks
HI. I was striping the WUR and the pin fell down and never found again. do you know if this pin can be purchased along with a kit?, or maybe, you could tell the lenght of it?.
Thanks in advance
Maybe reach out to k-jet.biz/ or salvox.com/
Hi, great videos. Would you say that a super high running engine (3000 RPM) right after the start is caused by a failure in the WUR? After several minutes the engine runs normal. Thanks for any advice.
That could be caused by the Auxillary Air Valve being stuck open.
I'm trying to take mine of on a mk1 gti. It's on the block but I don't see bolts holding it on?? I took thr fuel lines off and it won't come off
Should be the two bolts. One on each side
@@ShinyFastLoud yeah that's the issue, I don't see the 2 bolts and I've looked all over it lol
@@juanirving276 Yours is probably like mine: it has short 5mm Allen bolts, accessed through the holes. PITA, but doable.
Do you know which part # WUR kit you bought. There are a few on that ebay store 0:29
I looked at the number on my WUR and contacted the seller and told him what I had.
How long did the shipping take from Germany for the kit?
Just a few days
@@ShinyFastLoud Thanks! I've used ones from other vendors but decided to get one from Germany since he includes all the hardware that they don't, and the price is about the same. This time I'm working on an '87 Mk 2 .
Everything that's old which is everything lmao
It is
Those kits are stupidly expensive for what is basically a few bolts and o rings. Unfortunately they don't include the bit that actually fails.. the bi-metalic strip.
Have you seen the process for the replacement WUR?