This is everything my dad never did with me that I now have to teach myself. I watch them in my ambulance in between calls. Thank you to you and your wife for your time and effort!
Yeah; I remember in the '80s they used to just tear all that stuff off as soon as it made trouble for the smooth operation. Emissions tests weren't laws yet, and the vehicles weren't beholden to standards. But they knew the day was coming and were trying to get ahead by making vehicles respectable before it got too demanding and expensive to develop engines that pollute less. But people considered all that stuff as just inhibiting junk and made engines run badly. When I saw that quad spark plug I immediately thought do a compression test. They were probably trying to avoid a ring job. PVC valves were a lot easier and cheaper on these years. There's no excuse for blowing your gaskets out over that little part. Great nostalgia here going over this van. I love this restore!
I have the exact same van. Im going to replace my quadra jet, probably pop off my valve covers since it looks easier than i was imagining.Thank you. didnt know i didnt need all those vac hoses.
I learned a great trick for fasteners that have to go under the vehicle in the road spray, and are going to be heat cycled: As long as it's not super strength sensitive, just find Brass nuts. They will never freeze to your bolts, hold well, and aren't all that expensive. I worried about them maybe vibrating loose, so I just double nutted each of the joints on my exhaust hangers and the clamps with brass. Worked great, and here in Canada replacing exhausts happens on the regular tbh.
I appreciate the content you’re posting. However, I have a couple of questions: 1) Why did you buy an additional water gauge when the factory provided you with an oil and water gauge? Wouldn’t it be easier (and cleaner looking) to reconnect the oil and water gauge in the instrument panel and get rid of the external gauges and the “electrical spaghetti” that would come with it? 2). Wouldn’t it be easier remove and replace the inline fuel filter around the frame rail on the (typically) drivers side? It has sitting for 5 years. Safe to assume that it hasn’t been replaced. Keep up the great work though. I’m enjoying what I’m seeing!
do the manifold gaskets and no cork gaskets on the flats use permatex and water pump and heater core , check leak down and compression test before doing anything. on my 6th van build , only g series and or vandura van ,bus , cutaway . etc . happy wrenching
This may be different for your engine, but I have an 87 g20 van with the first generation of TBI fuel injection. I had a cracked exhaust manifold, and decided to take the opportunity to install headers, instead of brazing it up. Anyway, the point is that on my engine there is no gasket between the manifold and the block, it's just a very nicely machined metal to metal mating surface. I was surprised, but I checked with the wise old parts guy at my local auto parts place and he said there are no gaskets there. I suspect yours might be the same. In case you are curios, I would not suggest getting the headers, the manifolds actually flow well enough to support well over 300horses, the main restriction in the exhaust system is the absolutely awful Y pipe that Chevrolet installed, so if you replace the exhaust (and you will have to soon enough) just get a kit of 2 1/4" and either go dual of get a high flow Y pipe. Summit or Jegs has lots. The main reason I dislike the headers is actually just that they were not available stainless or ceramic, and despite paying to have them ceramic coated they are already rusting, mind you they were cheaper than getting the old manifold brazed up and reconditioned....
Hey, I was wondering what the computer does on your model year? I don't think they had ECU ignition did they? is it just a transmission controller? The next year, in 87, they switched to TBI, and its a huge pain in the ass as you have to actually burn new Chips and slot them in if you do much in the way of modification. But that commuter may not do much in the way of engine stuff at all....
Please please please get back to this comment, that wire behind your carburetor, it’s unplugged on my van and I can’t for the life of me find where the other end goes
Honestly I’m not sure myself but I know Hanes manual have wiring diagrams or you can wire in a new wire and tie it into the wiper motor with its own fuse
This is everything my dad never did with me that I now have to teach myself. I watch them in my ambulance in between calls. Thank you to you and your wife for your time and effort!
Yeah; I remember in the '80s they used to just tear all that stuff off as soon as it made trouble for the smooth operation. Emissions tests weren't laws yet, and the vehicles weren't beholden to standards. But they knew the day was coming and were trying to get ahead by making vehicles respectable before it got too demanding and expensive to develop engines that pollute less. But people considered all that stuff as just inhibiting junk and made engines run badly.
When I saw that quad spark plug I immediately thought do a compression test. They were probably trying to avoid a ring job. PVC valves were a lot easier and cheaper on these years. There's no excuse for blowing your gaskets out over that little part. Great nostalgia here going over this van. I love this restore!
I have the exact same van. Im going to replace my quadra jet, probably pop off my valve covers since it looks easier than i was imagining.Thank you. didnt know i didnt need all those vac hoses.
I learned a great trick for fasteners that have to go under the vehicle in the road spray, and are going to be heat cycled: As long as it's not super strength sensitive, just find Brass nuts. They will never freeze to your bolts, hold well, and aren't all that expensive. I worried about them maybe vibrating loose, so I just double nutted each of the joints on my exhaust hangers and the clamps with brass. Worked great, and here in Canada replacing exhausts happens on the regular tbh.
I appreciate the content you’re posting. However, I have a couple of questions:
1) Why did you buy an additional water gauge when the factory provided you with an oil and water gauge? Wouldn’t it be easier (and cleaner looking) to reconnect the oil and water gauge in the instrument panel and get rid of the external gauges and the “electrical spaghetti” that would come with it?
2). Wouldn’t it be easier remove and replace the inline fuel filter around the frame rail on the (typically) drivers side? It has sitting for 5 years. Safe to assume that it hasn’t been replaced.
Keep up the great work though. I’m enjoying what I’m seeing!
Clean work man, looks and sounds much better!
Bro! Yes!!! I like how knowledgeable you are, very helpful. Thank you.
Nice video. Tanks 😊
I just did that last year with my 79 g2o. wish I can send u pics lol
good job brother. looks nice af
Thanks for the encouragement
I just removed the air pump tube's from my 85 GMC. All 6 of the tubes unscrewed from the manifold. I couldn't believe it.
Awesome trick getting that broken bolt out 😮👍
do the manifold gaskets and no cork gaskets on the flats use permatex and water pump and heater core , check leak down and compression test before doing anything. on my 6th van build , only g series and or vandura van ,bus , cutaway . etc . happy wrenching
chevyvan great~~! i'm healing for your video.
This may be different for your engine, but I have an 87 g20 van with the first generation of TBI fuel injection. I had a cracked exhaust manifold, and decided to take the opportunity to install headers, instead of brazing it up.
Anyway, the point is that on my engine there is no gasket between the manifold and the block, it's just a very nicely machined metal to metal mating surface. I was surprised, but I checked with the wise old parts guy at my local auto parts place and he said there are no gaskets there. I suspect yours might be the same.
In case you are curios, I would not suggest getting the headers, the manifolds actually flow well enough to support well over 300horses, the main restriction in the exhaust system is the absolutely awful Y pipe that Chevrolet installed, so if you replace the exhaust (and you will have to soon enough) just get a kit of 2 1/4" and either go dual of get a high flow Y pipe. Summit or Jegs has lots.
The main reason I dislike the headers is actually just that they were not available stainless or ceramic, and despite paying to have them ceramic coated they are already rusting, mind you they were cheaper than getting the old manifold brazed up and reconditioned....
Hey, I was wondering what the computer does on your model year? I don't think they had ECU ignition did they? is it just a transmission controller? The next year, in 87, they switched to TBI, and its a huge pain in the ass as you have to actually burn new Chips and slot them in if you do much in the way of modification. But that commuter may not do much in the way of engine stuff at all....
Superrrrr helpful dude, thank you!
So what's that little plug wires on the side you said be careful with, I can't figure out what mine is. Got a 85 g30
40:46 what size did u switch it too?
Believe it to be a 650cfm wdlebrock
@@thatguysgarage323 the bolt for the carb air filter,
brother
Need refs of carburetor and parts
That was a great trick thanks I'll keep that in mind
Be careful with that style fuel filter there a fire Hazzard should have bought a plastic clamp on style 😮
Those filters are bad news. They eventually leak
Please please please get back to this comment, that wire behind your carburetor, it’s unplugged on my van and I can’t for the life of me find where the other end goes
Honestly I’m not sure myself but I know Hanes manual have wiring diagrams or you can wire in a new wire and tie it into the wiper motor with its own fuse