Window Sash Glazing, training video
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
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Download the book's chapter on glazing right now. 26 pages:
historichomewor...
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This is the full training video, showing all of every step and how to do it.
Excerpt from the book Save America's Windows
www.SaveAmerica...
Step 9c. Glaze.
Apply glazing putty to glazing rabbets as bedding. If working in a cold shop warm the putty slightly with a hot-air gun or infra-red lamp. Set the pane of glass in place and be sure the bottom edge of glass is actually resting on the neck of the lower glazing rabbet (for panes up to 18" wide). Jiggle the glass slightly so that it beds down into the putty, leaving about 1/16" of putty between the glass and the shoulder of the glazing rabbet, with some putty squeezing out all along the edges of the glass.
Apply and tool glazing putty in the form of a bevel to make a water-tight seal between the glass and the wood using the 3-step method: Place, Pack & Tool. Immediately "polish" outside of glass with whiting in a dry soft paint brush to clean oil from the putty off of glass and to "dust up" the surface of the putty. Flip the sash over and remove excess putty from interior joints and tool down to form water-tight seal at joint between the glass and the wood. "Polish" inside of glass with whiting. Set sash aside in correct vertical position to avoid settling of glass and distortion of beveled putty. Allow putty to cure and skin over for several days or a few weeks if possible, then the glazed sash is ready for painting.
Questions & comments on glazing? Meet us at the Forum:
saveamericaswin...
Workshops & training on window repair and maintenance:
www.historichom...
Thanks for watching!
--John
Brilliant! All the practical details (such as wiggling the glass & points) gained only by the thoughtful application of experience. Most instructors seem to lack one of the experience, the insight or the articulacy to convey all this. Thanks from England, where are to be found many, MANY windows needing this treatment, but where are also to be found legions of people lacking the skills or the patience. Now one fewer.
After years of messing around with the other retail brands of glazing putty I finally ordered a quart of Sarco Dual Glaze and man, the difference is night and day between the stiff stuff that’s hard to apply and tool, like Glazol, and the Sarco. The sarco is a dream to use to bed the sash with, and tool off evenly. I bought a nice stiff stainless steel putty knife too, though I prefer the bent ones for glazing.
If you’re messing with stiff Dap 33 or Glazol (which has been discontinued for two years now, so you’re buying old stock) and can’t get a nice putty line without tooling it 50 times, bite the bullet and get the Sarco. Crawfords in a pinch. Try a bent knife, too, for awkward positions.
Good tips. THanks!
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, one of the best DIY videos on UA-cam. Clear, concise and we'll produced.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I have one original wood window door left in my home that got broken and I am now confident after watching your demo to give a go. Man, I wish the previous owner of my house hadn't replaced all of the original windows. They truly were works of art. I wish I knew how to make them. I would replace all these awful looking vinyl ones I have. They look like cheap trailer windows, with white tape for mullions. lol We sure have lost our way.
John
Thanks for your excellent video. I have just successfully completed de-glazing, stripping and re-glazing my first window in our 1921 heritage bank property in country NSW Australia (an impressive 3.0m high double hung window) following the instructions in your video, which is full of helpful little hints and techniques to make a daunting job that much easier. I looked at a number of other videos before finding yours but none were as comprehensive or easy to follow as your excellent production. Now just 20 more windows to go (thankfully not all so large)! A little tip I have just today discovered for the first time re-glazer : don't leave your newly glazed windows resting on the floor to cure : mice like eating fresh putty!
+jareth cook , and thanks for your kind comments. I've never heard of mice eating putty before!
+John Leeke I am assuming it is the linseed oil that attracts them. All fixed now. Thanks again for your invaluable video. Now you are helping Save Australia's Windows as well!
Great video, I am replacing an old rotted window for my mum and your instructions will help me when I have to put the glass back in. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Dean. Australia.
+WestMelbourneIT Dean, I'm glad to help. --John
Thanks John - very clear video and instructions, and reasons for doing what you are doing.
Ingrid, after glazing wait until the putty has "skinned over" before painting. Different putties and different environments will have different skin over times, which can range from a few days to several weeks. Gently stroke the putty surface with a clean finger, if it feels oily it needs more time. If it feels dry it's ready to paint. If you are unsure, wait that much longer again. Also, when you are glazing, you can do a simple test: apply a few square inches of putty to a board, make it about as thick as your lines of glazing. Leave the test board next to your sashes as you wait for them to skin over. Then you can touch and poke at this test patch every few days to determine if the putty has skinned over. You can even make two or three test patches. Use one for touching and poking. When you think they have skinned over, you can try painting one patch to see what happens. If the skin of the putty wrinkles up, or something else goes wrong, wait for more skin over time, then try painting on the third patch. When everything goes well on the test patches, you know it's OK to paint the putty on your sashes.
More on glazing here:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10#p10
+John Leeke Ok, I will check in a few days (the sashes are indoors).
What a great and detailed training. You are a terrific instructor. Thank you for all the tips. I now can proceed with my project with a higher level of confidence....thank you so much...appreciate it!
You are welcome. Keep us posted on your work. For more on glazing check out the Discussion Forum over at the website:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=10
Thanks for taking time to explain in detail. I was having a tough time with the glazing pulling out with the knife. You explained what I was doing wrong.
Tim, you are welcome, glad I could help. Here is more on glazing:
historichomeworks.com/downloads/glazing-and-painting-wood-sashes/
A pleasure watching you work. Brings back a lot of memories of doing what you're doing. Since I have an old house, I still do some. I can no longer buy linseed putty where I live so am stuck with a DAP glazing compound which is "underwhelming" at best. I did concede to use an acrylic caulk as bedding putty. Have made a number of my own sash over the years. Always preferred to apply putty to wood primed with an oil based primer. I believe I still have a point gun, but the push points really save the bother of digging it out. I always liked the smell of linseed putty. Thanks for the video!
Frank, forget DAP, you can get real putty from Sarco: www.sarcoputty.com/ by the gallon or more.
If you need small amounts, get Sarco from Andy at:
Winn Mountain
, (603) 654-2115
John, you have presented an excellent training video. Thank you.
Dave, you are welcome. Keep us posted on your window work, right here, or over at the Save America's Windows Forum:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/index.php
SUPERB instructional video - thank you so much!
The very best!
Nancy, please give us a call, 207 773-2306
Excellent demonstration and very useful tips. Well done and thank you.
Thank you so much for this detailed demo!
You are welcome!
First of all THANK YOU so very much for this beautiful demo. I am replacing 9 small lights in an interior door, using stained glass. We hadn't watched the video until we had already put the points in. Is it absolutely necessary to use the bedding putty for an interior door with 8 x 6 inch panes?
You are okay with no bedding putty for an interior door.
Thanks for the video, well done from New Zealand.
Cody Freeman Thank you! Are there many people restoring old windows in New Zealand?
thanks for posting such a great video
Wish I'd seen this before I taught myself; took me three panes to get my hand in, but the other three look like yours :). Only another six panes to go!
And your last pane will be even better!
John, thanks for the video! I’m going to give it a try! I have 14 sashes (56 panes of glass total) that need to be reglazed. They are the ‘ol Andersen Pressure Seal units from the mid ‘50s.
I thought about replacing them with new windows, but the new stuff is plastic and lifeless. The original windows of mine are made from Ponderosa pine.
Ambrose, Those early Andersens are definitely worth saving. I have one in my house put in during the early '60s and it is still going strong, but I need to give it a coat of paint--imagine that, window paint that lasted half a century. Take care and work safe. --Johnnn
Some people don't put a small bead to set the glass in. They just set the glass against the wood and glaze once on top.
Yes, no bedding is common in the southeast, like the Carolinas and Virginia, also Texas, New Mexico and Arizona. Elsewhere it is often found on low-cost houses. Window industry trades manuals by the 1880s and 90s were calling for bedding the glass in putty for first-rate work. Today bedding the glass in putty or sealant is considered best practice.
@@johnleeke thank you. Yeah I decided to use a bedding and did 6 sashes today. I used DAP's water based glazing that comes in a caulk tube. It's really messy as it has the consistency of caulk and a huge pain in the butt but I used it because it can be painted in just 3 days. Maybe less as it's so hot right now.
In my home they did not bed the glass. Big mistake. In heavy wind storms the glass can crack especially once the glazing gets old.
Love the videos Mr. Leeke. I just did a few of my own windows, but only had access to Dap33 for putty. Hope it works as well as expected.
Great video!! Thanks for taking the time to make it. I have 84 sashes from an 1894 Victorian we are in process of redoing as part of a gut renovation. I noticed when you bed the glass there was a strip of glazing on the inside that is visible. How do you address the white glazing if you are staining the inside of your sashes? It seems like dark stain and white glazing might be unsightly. Especially in the areas where there is a void to fill.
I'll try this again. Didn't like my efforts last year and gave up. If only I had had whiting. Thank you so much about the special details on the angle. Where can one get whiting in the Chicago area?
Still confused about when it is ok to paint. How long after glazing?
Your putty has a smooth sheen to it in the video. Im using Sarco M and it looks a bit "dryer"? than yours. Is there a way to prep the putty before using it,,,or do you just grab a handful from the bucket and get to work? Thanks so much for the video, just started my first of 20 windows ! :) And am excited to restore as opposed to replace.
Brooke, If I recall correctly, I am using Sarco M in the video. Don't worry about the sheen of the putty. Putty with more oil may have more sheen. If your bucket or can of putty has been sitting around for a while oil may have risen to up to puddle on the top surface of the putty. If you see this, and you have a gallon or quart can you should scoop out all of the putty onto your bench and kneed that oil back into the putty until it is consistent, then put the putty back in the can leaving no air gaps. This can be extremely difficult and take a long time if you are working with a 5-gallon bucket of putty. With 5-gallons I scoop off the risen oil and save it in a jar, then go ahead and use putty out of the bucket. Towards the bottom 3 or 4" of the bucket the putty will be a little dry (this is where that risen oil came from), so I scoop out all the putty and kneed the oil back in, then put the putty back in the bucket. More on glazing and handling putty over at the Save America's Windows discussion Forum:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7#p10
take care and work safe,
John
Brooke Berger yes if it's woodsash windows add a little linseed oil
I wish I had seen this last year when I was reglazing my windows. This was awesome. Unfortunately, I learned a lot of this the hard way. I am wondering about the glazier's points. The bed that the glass rests on is so narrow that the metal on the points shows from the inside. I couldn't find any that had smaller rabbit ears (Is that what you called them?), so I took tin snips and cut off about 1/16 - 1/8" off the ears. Is there a better method? I don't think the original windows (ca. 1978) used the points as the panes fell out on their own with the decaying putty. Very frustrating.
Thanks again for an awesome tutorial!!!
I trim the rabbit ears with tin snips too. Diamond and triangle points are flat and can be wiggled in as far as needed without trimming. More here on points:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6
Thanks for this, I've got my sash out at the moment and wasn't sure about the bedding part, my sash has only got putty on three sides on the top edge the glass pushes into a slot, which I'm presuming you fill with the putty? The video gives me a bit more confidence tackling the job 👍
Yes you fill the gap with putty most top sash I’ve seen have the little gap for the glass to sit into
Thank you really comprehensive.
You are welcome!
my Sarco putty seems dry and when I work it, a little sticky.It sticks to my putty knife and I have been wearing nitrile gloves so my hands don't get goopy. how do I get my putty the consistency of yours? does it have to be super warm? is it not mixed up? it's in a very large container and I try to mix it but it's like stirring frozen ice cream. I have bought your book and it has been so helpful. Also where do I buy the whiting?
Putty Sticking to Knife: To prevent sticking clean your knife after each use. Remove any putty and clean off oily residue with a rag and a bit of turpentine or mineral spirits. When doing the final tooling you can dip your knife in turpentine, mineral spirits or boiled linseed oil that will act a lubricant, but this is not usually needed.
Mixing Putty: When you first open a can of putty there may be oil that has risen to the top. You have to mix the oil back into the putty. Scrape or pore this oil off into another container. Take all of the putty out of the can and put it on a smooth bench top. Flatten out the putty, spread some or all of the oil onto the middle of putty, then fold half the putty over onto itself, seal the putty to itself at the edges, fold the putty in half again, kneed the putty down flat again, and repeat folding and kneeding at least 15 times until the oil is mixed back into the putty. Pack the putty back into the can in 1" layers, excluding all air gaps as you go.
Handling Putty: Warm the putty up. Grab a wad of putty about half the size of your fist and kneed it in your hand to warm it up. If you are wearing gloves they may be keeping the putty from warming up. Keep you can of putty where it is warm, like on a sunny window stool, or next to (but not on top of) the radiator. You can also use a microwave oven, "nuking" it for just a few seconds, but DON'T USE A MICROWAVE THAT IS USED FOR FOOD !!! (POISONOUS VAPORS AND RESIDUES MAY BE LEFT IN THE OVEN)
Whiting Suppliers: Listed on page 153 in the Save America's Windows book, if you have the second edition, which was available after April, 2013. If you have an earlier edition suppliers are listed about half way down the first message in this discussion:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7
What brand of putty is that? How did you get it so dry? The Dap putty I used today was so wet, it stuck to my fingers, barely to the wood and was a royal pain to work with. Thinking I'll try the caulk putty next time.
Forget the putty that comes it the caulking tube, it's worse than Dap. If I recall correctly I was using Sarco Type M in the video. First pat a little whiting (dry white powder) onto your hands, which will keep the putty from sticking. Kneed this putty in your hand for five minutes and it works just like in the video. Type M is for use when glazing in the shop, not with the sash in the wall exposed to the weather. More on putty over at the Save America's Windows discussion forum: saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5224
How to build window easel
How to build a window easel: saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5217
I use a wooden stepladder as an easel with a couple of cabinet clamps on the legs to serve as a ledger. My space is limited and since I already own the ladder I decided not to build one.
I understand that the glazing has to be painted 1/16" to 1/8" onto the glass. For windows that are stained do they still need that paint or will staining the glaze and onto the glass work?
Usually the sash and putty need paint for best protection from the weather.
It's best practice to add dry pigment colors to the putty if the putty needs to have a color.
What kind of stain are you using? It might be incompatible with the putty, causing some problem, like wrinkling of the putty skin. Always do some testing on a preliminary window whenever you are using materials and methods you have never used before.
@@johnleeke woodrich penetrating stain that is a long oil alkyd. The windows have pegs and are the interior part of two windows.
@@supermetaltastic I am not familiar with that product. I suggest testing out this product for this use. Try it out on just one rail or stile, doing the complete process, then let it sit for a while and see what the results are.
Fantastic thanks so much
yer welcome
Took me ages to find a clip that shows this properly,..... you win... :-)
I shared it to a facebook group member who had asked me how it's done...
I have done this dozens of times over the years, it's quite fun actually. Sometimes when the trusty putty knife is missing, I'll even use a bread & butter knife, works a treat a... :-)
Was impressed to see you using whiting and a brush on the final cleaning, nice.... I had thought only us stained glassers knew that trick....
Anyway, well done dude, but, get a proper cameraman and some slick editing would make your tutorial pop.... :-)
Hi John
What group on facebook?
I agree, this work is fun, and so is sharing it.
I learned the whiting method from the stained glass folks and introduced it to the regular windows folks in the 1990s here in the USA. Now all the historic window specialists use it.
It's just me here, repairing windows and sharing what I have learned. I do the demonstrations, narrate, edit, and shoot my own video. It is what it is. I wish I had the money to hire a video production crew. Can you send a donation?
I suspect you're in the UK. I'm going to visit over there later this year, mostly Shropshire and Wales. Can you get me in touch with some window restoration specialists?
John Leeke Thanks for writing me John.... :-) I have a stained glass FB group I foundered and admin for, search "karal studio stained glass" on facebook.Ha, it makes sense that you picked up the whiting trick from stained glassers, smart man you are...
You obviously know your stuff, youtube can do with more craftsmen with cameras! so keep doing em dude. The camera I use for my youtubes is an HD still camera (that will capture video) only cost me $350 NZ new. Cheap cheap. I do all my own filming and edits, have a looksee (search youtube for "user karalnz") You know you can make a passive income doing this stuff a? I'm at around 250 a month now and growing..... :-)
John Alloway
Thanks for the video tips, I'll study your videos to see how I could improve. What are you doing to generate passive income? Is that advertising revenue or pay-per-view, right here on UA-cam?
John Leeke Morning John, when you allow youtube to overlay google ad's on your clips, you get paid for it.... :-) Check it out dude, it's well worth building it!
Nice job... thanks for the video.
Yer welcome!
Do I need to put sealant or anything under the pane of glass ( internal side? )
Make sure bare wood is primed with wood primer whether its been primed with wood primer, varnish or linseed oil before or not, the primer stops the wood from absorbing the oil from the putty drying it out cracking and falling off, finally paint it after three weeks to seal it in so it doesn't dry out.
Non drying sealant is used on the inside of double glazed windows using appropriate wood sealing primer for that sealer on the wood first, instructions usually on sealants in shop what they're used for and how to prepare to apply always take time to read instructions.
Remember reading about in a FineHomebuilding article once that recommended vinyl adhesive caulk to help bed the window, and then following up with glazing with linseed oil putty as shown in your video. The author's/tradesman's view was that bedding with caulk would seal better and prevent breakage of glass during installation. Also, have known folks like Duffy Hoffman to recommend it because "could lead to a better life for the glazing." Any thoughts on this?
There are many effective ways to glaze wooden sash. I often use a traditional method of bedding the glass pane in putty. You can see all the details of this in my book, Save America's Windows. Click on "show more" above and click on some of the links. The national Window Preservation Standards book details four different glazing methods, two include bedding in sealants. More on the Standards: www.WindowStandards.org.
Thank you!
Anet, you are welcome!
Thank you for a very thorough glazing lesson. I've learned quite a lot. I have a question about the putty knife. I have one from years ago that is double-ended - one end is a regular putty knife, the other end is V shaped with a groove where the 2 sides of the V come together. Is there anything to recommend the V end? It looks like it would give a good 45 degree angle to the glazing compound if one side is run along the mutton or sash and the other along the glass and would spill excess glazing through the groove. Any thoughts?
You are welcome!
The V end can help make a consistent angle, but it is seldom the correct angle needed. It usually produces an angle that allows a wide stripe of the putty to be seen from the inside of the sash. This may provide good performance of the line of putty to keep the weather and water out of the joint between the wood and the glass, but it is usually considered a very poor visual appearance to see the putty from the interior of the window. Perhaps this would be adequate for sash in a barn, but not adequate for sash in a front parlor of the main house.
Superb technical video and very helpful written answers to questions (below). I wish I'd found this video before watching the dozen or so previously. I now feel confident to go forth...
Unfortunately I can't find your book here in Sydney, Oz.
+Jean M , Jean, you can order the book over at the Save America's Windows website, and I'll personally ship a copy over to you:
saveamericaswindows.com/get-the-book/
Also, you can get more glazing info and ask any question at the Forum:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10#p10
+John Leeke Thank you very much for the offer but after puttying one tiny pane, I've decided that the task needs a professional.
John. how long do you need to wait for it to skin before painting with exterior paint?
+Tango Papa 36, 3 days to 3 weeks, depending on which putty and the environmental conditions in the shop or the weather outdoors. In this video I'm using Sarco MultiGlaze Type M, and it's in the heated shop, so it's about 5 days, or 3 days if I set a fan to blow on the stack of sashes. Other putties and other conditions will have different times to skin over. When in doubt, do a test sash, or a test line of putty to see how long it takes. See more on glazing and painting sash in the book: saveamericaswindows.com/get-the-book/
Does it matter if you do this from the inside or outside of the window frame? Or does it work either side you want to work on? Thanks!
In the video I've taken the sash out of the frame and am glazing it in the shop. If the sash is left in the frame in the wall, then glazing has to be done from the outside.
I wondered forever how they put those old points in. Problem with the new ones is, when your wood is 150 years old the wood is almost petrified. Then your pushing your points in , the glass cracks cause u have ti use so much pressure to get point to drive all the way.
Peter, rock the putty knife and point from side to side, which eases the point into the wood. You can use an angled putty knife so the force of driving the point is directly towards the wood and not angled down onto the glass as with a straight putty knife.
More over here at the Save America's Windows Forum:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7&p=5910#p5910
@@johnleeke Thanks John, I have done windows where the points go right in,no sweat . Was wondering if these cheap points are not as sharp. Therefore not going in easily. The angled putty knife sounds like a possibility. I tried a margin trowel but still hard. May take a razor knlfe and precut a slit. Trust me,,i wiggle the knife too. Just will not go to hilt. I may invest in that driver and the diamond type points. For those hard hard sashes.
Anyway,,thanks so much for writing back John. Take care.
@@peterford9369 , another thing to try is a Glazing Hammer, to tap the point further in
historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4173
@@johnleeke Hey John. Just ordered a point tool on Amazon. It looks like it'd be beneficial. Thought about a shooter, but didn't wanna spend 50 plus bucks right now. I was working on an oak cabinet door with glass panel. The oak was so hard i could barely get the points in,with fear of cracking the glass. Metal on glass is a no no, even as small as the non diamond shaped points. I may get a shooter just to save aggravation. Thanks again John
Fletcher makes a point tool that looks like a ball valve handle. It works well for pushing in #2 and #7 points. I use the #2 triangular points and like John said, rock back and forth rather than trying to push straight in.
type of glaztng putty u are using? how do u feel the Logan point drivers sold on amazon?
Greg, I'm using a traditional linseed oil putty in this video. Learn more about putties over at the Save America's Windows discussion forum:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5224
The Logan point drivers are made for picture framing work, not for window sash glazing. Learn about point drivers here:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6&p=9#p9
Great video. Thanks very much. Have an old Georgian house 1719 and needs a lot of attention. I'll need not to wash the windows for six months after reputtying? Is that right John?
Hey John, believe it or not, window glass really isn't that easy to come by where I live. Do you know of any sources that do business on-line? Many thanks!
Get my Save America's Windows book, it has a resources section that lists some suppliers of old wavy glass. saveamericaswindows.com/get-the-book/
Normal sash window glass was 3mm in the UK now they only make 4mm that doesn't balance with the window weights, but I use a local glass supplier that imports 3mm for green house glass.
Great video. I have 6 big windows to do. This will help me. I am not sure what the Whiting is? Where can I get this?
Hi Susie, Whiting is a dry white powder usually made of ground up limestone. Local paint stores used to carry whiting, but few do today. Sometimes local stained glass shop will sell you some out of their supply, especially if they have stained glass workshops and classes. The book, Save America's Windows, has a Suppliers Directory that lists online suppliers of whiting. Get your copy right over here:
saveamericaswindows.com/get-the-book/
Hey! Currently glazing windows for my greenhouse. I've learned baby powder works too, to remove the oils. Hope this helps you 🤗
What putty brand do you recommend?
Hi Tom, I don't make specific recommendations, but I can report that many historic window specialists use Sarco brand putties. You can get it directly from Sarco: www.sarcoputty.com/ by the gallon or more.
If you need small amounts, get Sarco putties from Andy at:
Winn Mountain
, (603) 654-2115. Please mention that you learned about it from me, John Leeke.
To learn more about putty and how to use it, download the book's chapter on glazing right now. 26 pages:
historichomeworks.com/downloads/glazing-and-painting-wood-sashes/
--John
In my area, Dap 33 and Glazol are all that's available, neither of which has really impressed me. Has anyone ever tried to use Sherwin-Williams' 66 glazing? My experiences with it are disastrous. It has the consistency of latex caulk. I'm about to completely de-glaze a window I just spent an hour trying to get looking nice with SW 66 and use Dap because it's actually the superior product in my case.
Consider Sarco DualGlaze or Sarco Type M. Here is more than you need to know about putty:
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5224
@@johnleeke I just started restoring a window in a friends house and got the Dual Glaze. I replaced a few individual panes a few years ago and used Crawford’s and it’s holding up very well, but the Sarco is a dream.
I settled on using Crawford’s a few years ago on mine after fighting with hardware store stuff. I no longer have to worry about redoing my windows thanks to the fire department and my neighbors burning stuff.
Ingrid, click on this link
saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10#p10
and scroll down about half way to see the "Polish the Glass" heading. There you'll find links to online suppliers for whiting. For local suppliers try stained glass shops, especially the ones that teach classes, they usually will sell whiting.
+John Leeke Thank you! I will look for it. Today, I used plaster of paris. I worked pretty well, but not the best thing to be inhaling for 25 more windows. Will find a stained glass place in Chicago.
I had great success today with my window after your tips.
An elderly gentleman who had been a glazier for over 50 years told me I could also use plaster of paris in lieu of whiting. That's what I've used ever since in my 40+ years of doing old windows, and it works great. It is also less expensive and more readily available. I also prefer the Sarco putties.
Oops, sorry. Correction to my previous post. I meant "muntins" not "muttons." Baaaaaaad mistake.
Excellent video. What is in the cup? Looks like you dip your knife before tooling but if you talked about this in the video I missed it.
Not sure what you are talking about, I don't dip the putty knife into anything in a cup before tooling. Some people dip their knife into linseed oil before tooling, but I've never done that because it's not necessary if you have a good tooling technique like I show in the video. That linseed oil dip would just slow me down could leave a mess of oil on the glass or face of the sash.
Rewatched and see I was wrong. There’s a cup bottom left and thought your knife looked wet. Anyway, thanks very much for the quick reply and useful information.
@@maascaleb That's the container for the whiting that I use later in the video. Thanks for the kind remarks and best of success with your windows.
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Too slow friend, your never make money at that speed.
This is a training video, the demonstration is slow so that trainees can easily study the techniques and follow along with their own work. Speed is learned once the basic techniques are mastered. I don't "make money," I do make good window work, and have been earning a living and supporting my family doing that for more than half a century.