I've got quite a few of these Pacifics and also Mikados; some RSO - Yugoslavia and some Mehano - Slovenia depending on their age. I've done a lot of cosmetic work on the shells and little on the mechanisms. They're really easy to take apart but a booger to reassemble. Thanks for the great video showing how reasonably simple it is to replace the motor if need be and of course if you can find a suitable replacement.
I bought one (Rock Island) with a similar motor issue from my local hobby store, and it was traced to the commutator not being cleaned. It still runs to this day with the original motor
I've got two of the Mehano Mikado's. One is the famous #4501 Southern Crescent and the other is an L&N Mikado. Both are smokers and I changed out the incandescent lighting to LED lighting. I've got several Mantua Pacifice (4-6-2) which I changed all the magnets in the open frame (Pittman) motors to rare earth magnets. It made a HUGE difference in current draw and now they will "creep" around the tracks. Cheers from eastern TN
I fixed two of those for my uncle recently. The brushes and springs fail and let out the magic smoke. I put in a new can motor from ebay. Not bad engines but motors are 50/50 failure rate
I don't unfortunately, but I do have another one of these videos coming up soon that I hope will help. My apologies--I'm learning what does and doesn't help people as I go, so I'll remember this for the future.
I got this same model 4-6-2 #2904. IN mid 1990's the motor was burned out only after a month or two. I replaced it with a 5-pole can motor and it is as noisy as ever. I can't seem to quiet it down. Now it sounds like the motor shaft and gear is slipping. I don't know what to do.
@@DoctorHobby I actually used super glue to reattach the motor's flywheel to the shaft. That seem to have been the issue. As for the noise, it has quiet down a bit after some running time and oiling. I made a video for Father's Day Special and installed a LED light. Runs better.
The thing about IHC models is that before anyone wants to put a decoder in them, make sure you do a motor stall test first to make sure it does not pull more than a certain number of AMPs. Last time, my local club tested out an IHC Premier 2-10-2 and it pulled 3A during a stall, which out club had to sell off since they did not want to do a motor replacement job. The reason why you want to test how much a motor is pulling in AMPs, is because most decoders are between 1-2A. Exceeding beyond that window will burn your decoder if a short happens, especially through the motor. Very important to consider!
Fun fact: This pacific locomotive was originally a Lifelike tooling in the 1970s before AHM acquired the tooling and then IHC took over the tooling before the locomotive was discontinued in 2005 or 2007 (?)
I generally take them out if they're the older kind.. otherwise I don't mess with them directly unless I really have to. There is a video coming up of me messing with one, however..
Thank you! I needed to see how to reassemble my IHC Pacific after a repair. Slowing down your video helped me out.
I've got quite a few of these Pacifics and also Mikados; some RSO - Yugoslavia and some Mehano - Slovenia depending on their age. I've done a lot of cosmetic work on the shells and little on the mechanisms. They're really easy to take apart but a booger to reassemble. Thanks for the great video showing how reasonably simple it is to replace the motor if need be and of course if you can find a suitable replacement.
I bought one (Rock Island) with a similar motor issue from my local hobby store, and it was traced to the commutator not being cleaned. It still runs to this day with the original motor
I've got two of the Mehano Mikado's. One is the famous #4501 Southern Crescent and the other is an L&N Mikado. Both are smokers and I changed out the incandescent lighting to LED lighting. I've got several Mantua Pacifice (4-6-2) which I changed all the magnets in the open frame (Pittman) motors to rare earth magnets. It made a HUGE difference in current draw and now they will "creep" around the tracks. Cheers from eastern TN
I tough I have two new of those but motor sparks same as yours I changed motors too, since those work smooth thanks for sharing!
I fixed two of those for my uncle recently. The brushes and springs fail and let out the magic smoke. I put in a new can motor from ebay. Not bad engines but motors are 50/50 failure rate
I wish the reassembly part was not sped up. Do you have a video of reassembly at regular speed so I can see the process?
Thanks 9:54
I don't unfortunately, but I do have another one of these videos coming up soon that I hope will help. My apologies--I'm learning what does and doesn't help people as I go, so I'll remember this for the future.
I literally got the same model as you and it’s having the same problems, what’s a good replacement motor for it?
I got this same model 4-6-2 #2904. IN mid 1990's the motor was burned out only after a month or two. I replaced it with a 5-pole can motor and it is as noisy as ever. I can't seem to quiet it down. Now it sounds like the motor shaft and gear is slipping. I don't know what to do.
You can actually use a specific adhesive to re-attach the worm gear to the shaft if you're sure that's what's going on
@@DoctorHobby I actually used super glue to reattach the motor's flywheel to the shaft. That seem to have been the issue. As for the noise, it has quiet down a bit after some running time and oiling. I made a video for Father's Day Special and installed a LED light. Runs better.
The thing about IHC models is that before anyone wants to put a decoder in them, make sure you do a motor stall test first to make sure it does not pull more than a certain number of AMPs. Last time, my local club tested out an IHC Premier 2-10-2 and it pulled 3A during a stall, which out club had to sell off since they did not want to do a motor replacement job. The reason why you want to test how much a motor is pulling in AMPs, is because most decoders are between 1-2A. Exceeding beyond that window will burn your decoder if a short happens, especially through the motor. Very important to consider!
Yea. a three pole motor, I believe.I have a couple of my dads & really need a motor upgrade in them as they dont run at slow speeds.
Yeah.. At stock they're a bit hesitant... Still fun, though
I've got a AHM Canadian Pacific 4-6-2 it runs very well but the motor hums at low power
That’s pretty typical for these. Hope you’re enjoying it!
@@DoctorHobbyI love it despite the motor humming at low power and was worth buying
If I'm not mistaken I think it's an ihc/mehano ahm locomotive instead of a rivarossi
Fun fact:
This pacific locomotive was originally a Lifelike tooling in the 1970s before AHM acquired the tooling and then IHC took over the tooling before the locomotive was discontinued in 2005 or 2007 (?)
Oh, you're right; it is!
@@nathanchan4653 yeah I saw a video about that
My Southern railway Ahm has to pull twelve cars because the real PS-4 pull same amount at 90 miles an hour.
Do you typically mess with smoke units or install them ?
I generally take them out if they're the older kind.. otherwise I don't mess with them directly unless I really have to. There is a video coming up of me messing with one, however..
Nice fix and I like the consist.
Thank you so much! I'm just glad it didn't melt the locomoitive, iteself!
I can imagine it’s difficult to take apart especially put back together, but that’s why I stopped by your video.
That’s the Thing About Model Railroading Buying A Bunch of Engines check them Out and Working on them learn to Fixing or Modifying them.
Indeed! Keeps the mind fresh, I think!
Get a Box Of Rolling Stock And a ton of Engines then start working on them.
That Looks Like the Engine I am Lookin for.
They turn up once and awhile on eBay and other online markets. I hope you're able to find yours soon!
I have 3, one non-powered, 2 that run. Want to buy them? I sell engines on offer up, at reasonable prices.
Maybe you should have used an Athearn motor in it? (just joking)
That's another IHC/Mahano loco, not classic AHM.
I have two of those. Ahm's. ATSF and UP.
They pull well. Even up my helix.