Could be a bent or burnt valve, or leaking piston rings. Or hole in piston. If you can rent or buy a leakdown tester, it will tell you. I can explain how to use tester or search UA-cam for info.
Russell Price It would crank but not start. Ended up that the timing chain was stretched. Like I said in video, it had low compression, because chain was stretched causing cams to be retarded. But in this video I was just verifying to myself that it wasn’t burnt valves or something. Then I find the head gasket blown in video. She’s at the salvage yard now. Cost too much just in parts to be worth fixing.
I have a 02 Nissan sentra 1.8 heater is very weak even after it warms up some heat but not hot gauge always stays right in middle never over heats if I drive car heat blows hot/ normal but if I Rev the engine few times to between 2/3 rpms parked heat gets hot and stays. This all started when I noticed the heat was getting weak and I had a check engine light, that said thermostat / coolant temperature sensor code, thermostat has been replaced, but not coolant temperature sensor, I have tried burping the system many times and it does work all hoes get hot on car but next day or two back to very little heat again, there is no leaks, car runs and drives great with no problems, I was told there is a bolt above the thermostat housing called air relief valve that is a bolt that you can use to get air out of coolant system, but never tried it out yet. Sorry for the long story but I don't know how to fix the problem. Not sure if you have had this problem or not but any information would be appreciated. Thanks for your response
Russell Price If you have driven it several days it should have burped on its own. Sounds like heater core is plugged. You can remove the heater hoses at the engine if easily accessible. Take a garden hose and backflush the core through the hoses. If u don’t know which way is backwards then just flush it both directions. See if any nasty looking crud comes out when you first start to flush it. Then hook hoses back up and try the heater.
@@randytempleton5797 thanks for the information I have not tried flushing the heater core yet it's winter time here in Ohio but as soon as I can I will try it
![How To Perform a Compression Test - [EASY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3VmmL0YAO14/mqdefault.jpg)
Have the same car same prob
But mine is no compression on num 4 cylinder. So what is it?and no water in the oil
Could be a bent or burnt valve, or leaking piston rings. Or hole in piston. If you can rent or buy a leakdown tester, it will tell you. I can explain how to use tester or search UA-cam for info.
@@randytempleton5797 thanks
Why take it to the salvage yard? why not just replace the head gasket and timing chain? get a bunch more miles from it..
Gary Stratton The Parts alone would cost more than the car is worth. The head could have been cracked and that’s more money. Not worth fixing.
Hello what kind of problems were you having before you decide to do this test
Russell Price It would crank but not start. Ended up that the timing chain was stretched. Like I said in video, it had low compression, because chain was stretched causing cams to be retarded. But in this video I was just verifying to myself that it wasn’t burnt valves or something. Then I find the head gasket blown in video. She’s at the salvage yard now. Cost too much just in parts to be worth fixing.
I have a 02 Nissan sentra 1.8 heater is very weak even after it warms up some heat but not hot gauge always stays right in middle never over heats if I drive car heat blows hot/ normal but if I Rev the engine few times to between 2/3 rpms parked heat gets hot and stays. This all started when I noticed the heat was getting weak and I had a check engine light, that said thermostat / coolant temperature sensor code, thermostat has been replaced, but not coolant temperature sensor, I have tried burping the system many times and it does work all hoes get hot on car but next day or two back to very little heat again, there is no leaks, car runs and drives great with no problems, I was told there is a bolt above the thermostat housing called air relief valve that is a bolt that you can use to get air out of coolant system, but never tried it out yet. Sorry for the long story but I don't know how to fix the problem. Not sure if you have had this problem or not but any information would be appreciated. Thanks for your response
Russell Price If you have driven it several days it should have burped on its own. Sounds like heater core is plugged. You can remove the heater hoses at the engine if easily accessible. Take a garden hose and backflush the core through the hoses. If u don’t know which way is backwards then just flush it both directions. See if any nasty looking crud comes out when you first start to flush it. Then hook hoses back up and try the heater.
@@randytempleton5797 thanks for the information I have not tried flushing the heater core yet it's winter time here in Ohio but as soon as I can I will try it