Think you answered your own question... a jamming servo will pull current like anything, probably pulling battery voltage down and hitting lipo cutoff on the esc. That or it's a bad sensor lead, both you could have sorted for a £...
Gav Iv had this problem and I found that it was overheating issues, larger tracks no problems at all but smaller indoor tracks same as what your having Iv now cut vent slots in the body’s to allow better air flow around the ESC and motor Could be worth a try
Bret from Texas here, I watch most of your videos but dont comment much, Just wanted to say thank you for all of your content. It truly makes me happy , so thank you
Reduce boost until you handle the car better. Indoor I go down to as low as 3-5 boost. Increase a bit if punch feels too low. Also go down in throttle control. Indoor 15-18 is plenty. Less is more and clean consistent racing is key.
can agree that my driving had improved as i got rid of both boost and turbo and can go on power sooner out of the corners and learn to carry more speed thru corners rather then depend on raw power on the straights.
The issue is likely the Savox servo. Lots of people have suffered with the same issue. Your esc wouldn't have a good enough BEC and the Savox is power hungry, causing the brown out. A cheap and easy fix is usually to install a power cap on the receiver. If you Google Savox power cap, you'll find something suitable. Better ESCs have a better BEC, and power cap not required.
Great vide, informative! You mentioned getting titanium screws, to save weight ? I remember way back when buggies where built for heavy NiMh batteries (like a Losi xxx cr), and when the LiPos where put in those cars they became very light. the weight loss made the buggy harder to setup and drive, It was less planted and setting up the shocks for that light weight was difficult. so we added led weights, the heavier the car, the easier it was to drive. So just saying, loosing weight is not always a good thing (close to 1700g was optimal for me and my 2wd buggy) sorry if i talk nonsense, keep up the good work !!
Gav, your driving has really improved since I last watched you! That looked pretty competitive, problems aside of course. It is so hard to stay completely zen calm & keep in the zone.
2 tooth change is huge. You typically want to adjust spur and pinion together for optimal results. I think dropping a tooth down to 24 would've been optimal, plenty of speed and still drivable.
For future, possible check motors temp. 10.5 3650kv is like the max motor limit on the Juststock ESC. Could have been in overheat protection. Try it in a say 13.5 in another car see if it happens again. (plus if it still works saved electronics for another. 🙂
I run the same setup in my Cougar and never had an issue. The B6.4 is way more efficient than the cougar and the motor was just about warm to the touch, nothing like cooking. Same for the ESC. The batteries are fine as I’m running the same packs in the races at the end with no issues
@@RCKickschannel gotcha just tossing an idea out. Motor might be cool. But the power its pulling through the esc the esc might be overheating internally? But as you mentioned trying the capacitors dont know if had on originally. Thatvintial help on the punch could help the esc also.
Hey Gav, loved the video, was good to see you got the issues sorted. One piece of advice I would really recommend is; Heats are not for racing the car in front of you. You are racing the clock and your own pace. Completely understand it is hard as sometimes the red mist appears. You will be faster overall by not racing for on track position in heats, also will take the pressure off you in those heats. Something I try to remind myself of when I'm racing. 😁
Your getting fast. You might not be the fastest, but unless your on that track a few times a week for three or four batteries, your not gunna be the top dog. But it's still a competition against yourself and that was always fun for me. As soon as I pushed too fast because I was loosing, I broke parts.
My guess is that you were hitting your low voltage cutoff on your old ESC and this caused the cutting out. It's worth reducing that from the stock setting or disabling for racing. Your new ESC has it disabled after looking at your screen shots. You can view the min voltage during a race using the data logger on your new ESC.
Consistency is the key in good lap times. Slow is Fast most times, eg where you have the technical part of the track nailed, by picking the best apex - which you can do when you have slight more time to think about addressing each turn. Lightening the car wont help that much, as many of the top drivers are ADDING weight for good balance - especially with carpet tracks. 1500g is usually the weight minimum for 2WD buggy races (sanctioned here in Australia). Try using a 2S1P battery - GensAce 130C - they are really good batteries, and keep the weight low in the car.
Great video you make a great race commentator. Rebecca always a great preamble and mojji's er, little feces, ah faces over the paint comment 😆 That servo looks like the problem with the electronics. If your not breaking things, your not racing. You know what cures oversteer? Practice practice practice!! C'mon let's see those battery packs screaming for mercy! Kyosho and those Optimal. It's great news but better news would be parts availability in north America. Tamiya USA have had me walking around grumbling non family friendly epitaphs. And Kyosho isn't much better. The struggle is real.
Nice work Gav. I still prefer the older style bodies over the cab forward, and the B6 looks so much better with the Cougar body on it. Great to see your progression, and more of Bec at the beginning of the videos please! Thanks.
It's urgent radio set up.Throw it out and get urself a futaba 4pm and up or a Santa mt-s,mt-5 and up..No shortcuts when it comes to transmitter and receiver game.....No Short cuts silly.Unless u want to beat on ur equipment, fighting for last place with that other guy with the car that constantly breaks.....ur choice
2 things I noticed with the electronics, 1. The Justock esc has a 11.5 motor limit and you were running a 10.5 motor, your c rating on your battery might not have had the voltage to push that motor. And 2. The Savox servos are synonymous for brownouts and a lot of times require an external cap pack to remedy that issue. And if you weren’t running a fan with that setup 10.5 indoor that could have been a heat issue. 10 laps of no airflow would 100% explain the power loss.
Gabon good running you have been proved a lot on a track is will help you in it will help you do a lot faster in a lot better in the we all from a driving rc buggy are fun to race 👍🏎️🇬🇧🇺🇲
Only got as far as 8 mins in. Have you checked the cells capacity when the car starts to act up? Sounds like something is drawing it down, most likely the servo.
Could it be the ESC reading the battery and lobo by accident then all the sudden realize that he got the boat that it needs and take I'm thinking that it's a sensor😮
Great racing Gav 👍 its a pain when you get gremlins. Mechanical is easy, you can see it 😂 i was wondering if it was getting to hot ? But the servo issue wouldnt be helping. Now get that A final win 😎
Gavin!!! I'm sorry!!! Your wife is soooo cute!!! Clicked immediately 😁...I'm sorry...sheesh..you did so well. You do know, that all the views shoot through the roof when she's on the thumb nails....so I know it's not just me..😊 you done good buddy. Track racing is very expensive. I had to get out of it. Just cost so much money each week. But I think we all have to do it for a bit.
Love the way the buggy looks. I'm newly reacquainted with rc cars & they've come a long way since the 80's 😂. Might be a weird question, but does that extra little wing on the front of racing buggies make a difference aerodynamically, or is it a requirement for racing?
The raving series is easily my personal favourite of your videos. Oh and the early how to videos that got me into the hobby. Great job Gav. Your racing is coming on!
Dearest Gav❣️ you should use Japanese quality and not ”the latest state of the art” electronics, it doesn’t work! Use Futaba or Kyosho Transmitters and receivers. They never fail ❤️
The car is way too powerful for that track. I can promise you'll go faster (over 5mins) with a slower motor or EPA of around 70%. You make up time through the corners not on the straights. Always adjust your speed for the track so you dont overrun corners. Indoor racing is about smoothness and carrying corner speed, most of the time slower is faster.
agree that slowing down the car for this track should improve the result and make it drivable in the corners. thinking of the stock drivers in 17.5 that thinks mod is to fast for their driving and precision is more in that class of racing.
Blimey gavin it’s a rocket ship, my advice would be to just calm down a bit, your in too much of a hurry to impress. Next time you race take some chewing gum with you as it works to chill yourself out before a big race.
The car didn’t like the vintage body.. please get it off me.. 😂 Savox servo is power hungry..it could be both bellcranks and steering rack are alum which could cause no flex and damage the servo..for now I only use the alum bellcranks. Maybe you should stop filming while racing.. it will be much faster with less mistake.. 😂 The steel bulkhead is better than the alum if you want more forward weight and steering.. Do you have link on the bullet connector grip? The 1up racing is too ex..
That whole drive into the wall without turning even though you can see it coming a mile off, is also my special maneuver.
Think you answered your own question... a jamming servo will pull current like anything, probably pulling battery voltage down and hitting lipo cutoff on the esc. That or it's a bad sensor lead, both you could have sorted for a £...
Gav Iv had this problem and I found that it was overheating issues, larger tracks no problems at all but smaller indoor tracks same as what your having
Iv now cut vent slots in the body’s to allow better air flow around the ESC and motor
Could be worth a try
Bret from Texas here, I watch most of your videos but dont comment much, Just wanted to say thank you for all of your content. It truly makes me happy , so thank you
That’s most kind Bret and thanks for watching 👍🏻👍🏻
Could it be a voltage issue?
The transponder, servo is sucking extra voltage that the esc is starving for voltage.
At least out of all the car problems,your rail slide is something Bashers and Skaters would be proud of.Keep on keeping on✌️
Reduce boost until you handle the car better. Indoor I go down to as low as 3-5 boost. Increase a bit if punch feels too low. Also go down in throttle control. Indoor 15-18 is plenty. Less is more and clean consistent racing is key.
can agree that my driving had improved as i got rid of both boost and turbo and can go on power sooner out of the corners and learn to carry more speed thru corners rather then depend on raw power on the straights.
The issue is likely the Savox servo. Lots of people have suffered with the same issue. Your esc wouldn't have a good enough BEC and the Savox is power hungry, causing the brown out. A cheap and easy fix is usually to install a power cap on the receiver. If you Google Savox power cap, you'll find something suitable. Better ESCs have a better BEC, and power cap not required.
I had problems like that and it was a bad solder joint
The final was awesome fun, but we all had our moments unfortunately.
Looking forward to next time!
Great vide, informative! You mentioned getting titanium screws, to save weight ? I remember way back when buggies where built for heavy NiMh batteries (like a Losi xxx cr), and when the LiPos where put in those cars they became very light. the weight loss made the buggy harder to setup and drive, It was less planted and setting up the shocks for that light weight was difficult. so we added led weights, the heavier the car, the easier it was to drive. So just saying, loosing weight is not always a good thing (close to 1700g was optimal for me and my 2wd buggy) sorry if i talk nonsense, keep up the good work !!
Those cars was built for the weight, todays cars isn't.
Yes of course, the cars of today are heavier, but loosing weight can make the harder to drive, depending on the track, weightloss etc
@@destormo I'd say todays cars are lighter. Brushless motors, esc's, LiPos, carbon fiber chassis, lighter receivers and servos.
the racing videos, that you and kev are making are great fun to watch! Cheers!
Another one coming soon
I’m thinking that the white body would be better just because it’s more visible than the darker one
and rothmans is a faster livery also.
how does it work if you get rid of that lunchbox of a controller and start to use wheel radio?
could that improve the driving?
Stick or trigger, whatever works best for you.
@@RCKickschannel im triggered 😆
I had the same problem on my team associated 6.2 with a hobbywing setup. i found that the sensor wire was my problem with the no throttle problem.
Gav, your driving has really improved since I last watched you! That looked pretty competitive, problems aside of course. It is so hard to stay completely zen calm & keep in the zone.
The backward cabs of the vintage buggies just look so much better
100% agree
also agree cab back looks better but cab forward is what works.
2 tooth change is huge. You typically want to adjust spur and pinion together for optimal results. I think dropping a tooth down to 24 would've been optimal, plenty of speed and still drivable.
"after 10 mins" sounds like overheating.. servo may or may not be the cause, just a seperate issue?
Great video Gavin, it seems that swapping the electronics helped with running continuesly all the time
Absolutely
For future, possible check motors temp. 10.5 3650kv is like the max motor limit on the Juststock ESC. Could have been in overheat protection. Try it in a say 13.5 in another car see if it happens again. (plus if it still works saved electronics for another. 🙂
I run the same setup in my Cougar and never had an issue. The B6.4 is way more efficient than the cougar and the motor was just about warm to the touch, nothing like cooking. Same for the ESC. The batteries are fine as I’m running the same packs in the races at the end with no issues
@@RCKickschannel gotcha just tossing an idea out. Motor might be cool. But the power its pulling through the esc the esc might be overheating internally? But as you mentioned trying the capacitors dont know if had on originally. Thatvintial help on the punch could help the esc also.
Hey Gav, loved the video, was good to see you got the issues sorted.
One piece of advice I would really recommend is; Heats are not for racing the car in front of you. You are racing the clock and your own pace. Completely understand it is hard as sometimes the red mist appears.
You will be faster overall by not racing for on track position in heats, also will take the pressure off you in those heats.
Something I try to remind myself of when I'm racing. 😁
100%
What Esc setting you got for boost and turbo?
Look at all those hi vis jackets! Nice reversing! BRCA fail-tastic Great looking track though.
Who are BRCA?
If you want better rotation out of your buggy, decrease your rear toe in.
Your getting fast. You might not be the fastest, but unless your on that track a few times a week for three or four batteries, your not gunna be the top dog. But it's still a competition against yourself and that was always fun for me. As soon as I pushed too fast because I was loosing, I broke parts.
My guess is that you were hitting your low voltage cutoff on your old ESC and this caused the cutting out. It's worth reducing that from the stock setting or disabling for racing. Your new ESC has it disabled after looking at your screen shots. You can view the min voltage during a race using the data logger on your new ESC.
Tried that, nope that was not it. Good point mind.
good to see im not the only one still using a stick radio
Consistency is the key in good lap times. Slow is Fast most times, eg where you have the technical part of the track nailed, by picking the best apex - which you can do when you have slight more time to think about addressing each turn. Lightening the car wont help that much, as many of the top drivers are ADDING weight for good balance - especially with carpet tracks. 1500g is usually the weight minimum for 2WD buggy races (sanctioned here in Australia). Try using a 2S1P battery - GensAce 130C - they are really good batteries, and keep the weight low in the car.
Great video you make a great race commentator. Rebecca always a great preamble and mojji's er, little feces, ah faces over the paint comment 😆
That servo looks like the problem with the electronics. If your not breaking things, your not racing. You know what cures oversteer? Practice practice practice!! C'mon let's see those battery packs screaming for mercy!
Kyosho and those Optimal. It's great news but better news would be parts availability in north America. Tamiya USA have had me walking around grumbling non family friendly epitaphs.
And Kyosho isn't much better. The struggle is real.
agrred if servo was locking up the gears it would draw massive amps from the reciever supply.
Nice work Gav. I still prefer the older style bodies over the cab forward, and the B6 looks so much better with the Cougar body on it. Great to see your progression, and more of Bec at the beginning of the videos please! Thanks.
It's urgent radio set up.Throw it out and get urself a futaba 4pm and up or a Santa mt-s,mt-5 and up..No shortcuts when it comes to transmitter and receiver game.....No Short cuts silly.Unless u want to beat on ur equipment, fighting for last place with that other guy with the car that constantly breaks.....ur choice
Really like the race footage and report great vid
2 things I noticed with the electronics, 1. The Justock esc has a 11.5 motor limit and you were running a 10.5 motor, your c rating on your battery might not have had the voltage to push that motor. And 2. The Savox servos are synonymous for brownouts and a lot of times require an external cap pack to remedy that issue. And if you weren’t running a fan with that setup 10.5 indoor that could have been a heat issue. 10 laps of no airflow would 100% explain the power loss.
I would say the servo is pulling a weak cell down in your pack and then taking you into lvc on the esc.
Ditch the savox servo
Gabon good running you have been proved a lot on a track is will help you in it will help you do a lot faster in a lot better in the we all from a driving rc buggy are fun to race 👍🏎️🇬🇧🇺🇲
Only got as far as 8 mins in. Have you checked the cells capacity when the car starts to act up? Sounds like something is drawing it down, most likely the servo.
Super vidéo 📼 😊
Try using your brakes to help shorten your jump length. Using brake while in the air brings the nose down.
I had exactly the same problem as this. Mine was the worn out lipo battery .
Nice Gavin nice racing now all you need to do is find and off road track and do some short course truck racing with the slash ❤
Yes that would be cool. Not much of that in the UK unfortunately
Great effort mate 👌
Thanks ✌️
Untested changes before final. Tsk Tsk. -U10
Could it be the ESC reading the battery and lobo by accident then all the sudden realize that he got the boat that it needs and take I'm thinking that it's a sensor😮
No clue yet, more work needed on the old WAC and motor
Anytime you have a problem & you're stumped, just blame it on Kevin. 😊
I knew I recognized that goatee. WHAT HAPPENED?!!!
RC kick in enjoying your videos thank you for making a 👍🔧
Great racing Gav 👍 its a pain when you get gremlins. Mechanical is easy, you can see it 😂 i was wondering if it was getting to hot ? But the servo issue wouldnt be helping. Now get that A final win 😎
Next target is to win a B final. After that come last in an A final lol.
@@RCKickschannel better to be last in the A than 1st in the B, big events are worse, i end up up D and E finals. But allways have fun 👍
Gavin, slower motor you WILL be faster !
I definitely had issues like this with a bad servo.
I like the older bodies as well
Gavin!!! I'm sorry!!! Your wife is soooo cute!!! Clicked immediately 😁...I'm sorry...sheesh..you did so well. You do know, that all the views shoot through the roof when she's on the thumb nails....so I know it's not just me..😊 you done good buddy. Track racing is very expensive. I had to get out of it. Just cost so much money each week. But I think we all have to do it for a bit.
Love the way the buggy looks. I'm newly reacquainted with rc cars & they've come a long way since the 80's 😂. Might be a weird question, but does that extra little wing on the front of racing buggies make a difference aerodynamically, or is it a requirement for racing?
Works on high speed open tracks more than what I race on
Stop using reverse on a race track. Reverse shouldn't even be enabled on the ESC when racing.
The raving series is easily my personal favourite of your videos. Oh and the early how to videos that got me into the hobby.
Great job Gav. Your racing is coming on!
Racing too 😂
Glad you like them!
Dearest Gav❣️ you should use Japanese quality and not ”the latest state of the art” electronics, it doesn’t work! Use Futaba or Kyosho Transmitters and receivers. They never fail ❤️
Could be motor, mine was doing same
Kevin Tolbert lol he seems to be everywhere
thanks for the vid.... subscribed
Welcome to RCKicks
The car is way too powerful for that track. I can promise you'll go faster (over 5mins) with a slower motor or EPA of around 70%. You make up time through the corners not on the straights. Always adjust your speed for the track so you dont overrun corners. Indoor racing is about smoothness and carrying corner speed, most of the time slower is faster.
agree that slowing down the car for this track should improve the result and make it drivable in the corners.
thinking of the stock drivers in 17.5 that thinks mod is to fast for their driving and precision is more in that class of racing.
So nearly a grand in upgrades so far ?
Over £1,000 in the car is bonkers really.
Blimey gavin it’s a rocket ship, my advice would be to just calm down a bit, your in too much of a hurry to impress. Next time you race take some chewing gum with you as it works to chill yourself out before a big race.
And you put your new ESC in backwards 😂
yep noticed that :)
The car didn’t like the vintage body.. please get it off me.. 😂 Savox servo is power hungry..it could be both bellcranks and steering rack are alum which could cause no flex and damage the servo..for now I only use the alum bellcranks.
Maybe you should stop filming while racing.. it will be much faster with less mistake.. 😂
The steel bulkhead is better than the alum if you want more forward weight and steering..
Do you have link on the bullet connector grip? The 1up racing is too ex..
easy answer- nope
😂❤️👍❣️
No point getting titanium screws other than bling
It saves a load of weight. I did it on my Cougar.
weight isn't an issue on a modern 2wd, keeping it on the ground is more important, hence all the brass weights. @@RCKickschannel