Faulty Model Train Autopsy | Can They Be Fixed?
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2024
- A fresh attempt at improving two notorious lemons of my train collection!
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0:00 Introduction
1:14 Adams Radial Intro
2:49 Oxford Autopsy
18:43 Oxford Testing
20:31 Large Prairie Intro
22:12 Hornby Autopsy
36:49 Hornby Testing
39:07 Conclusion - Авто та транспорт
Thanks Sam! my Adams Radial went belly up last year and I figured it was the motor, I remember you saying they were weak so I took it out and pulled the chassis around with another loco to see if there was any friction in the mechanism, even without the body on it rolled around OK, I even contacted Oxford to see if they had any replacement motors, I was begining to think it was just an expensive paperweight!
After watching this I figured what the hell, I went into the garage and stripped it apart and cleaned out the old grease and it's running as good as new.
Ahh sorry to hear that Alan - very common with those sadly! Great work though - at least it's better now!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam looks at anything Heljan, 'Yep faulty'
Lovely video Sam's Warwells
haha not anything, just most things to some extent, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Interesting Sam. At the moment, my Heljan Class 17 is my best running locomotive. It s perfect slow crawler every time
Thank you Sam. As an old mechanic, and a guy that used to repair HO, HON3 and T scale engines a long time ago, I really enjoyed this video. I used a needle oiler all the time. With regular straight 20 wt oil. Oh, way back when, I would purchase Atlas turntables, disassemble them, and use the can motors in locos. I anchored the motors down with early GE heat resistant silicon sealant. I'm sure there is better stuff today. Sorry for going on so.
Thanks very much Bruce - really appreciate your feedback and comments! I'll have to look into the silicon sealant - sounds like good stuff!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, I've recently had a revelation. I bought an ultrasonic cleaner for use with car gearbox internals and bicycle parts; it's great for those purposes, but then it dawned on me that I might be able to use it for model parts. For the large vehicles (cars and bikes) I use it with cleaning agents dissolved in water, but for models I tried it with both IPA and automotive brake cleaner because they dry off almost immediately. The results are fantastic - ten minutes is enough to remove almost any contamination, leaving components perfectly clean without any effort. I haven't tried it yet, (and if anyone does it will be 100% at their own risk) but there is a reasonable possibility that I could just drop a complete motor into the tank and let it be cleaned both internally and externally. So long as it is allowed to dry thoroughly there may well be no problem with this if you make sure that the bearings are lubricated again before running. I reckon that the very smallest of ultrasonic cleaner would be perfectly adequate if only used for models.
I use a small jewellery cleaner with ipa and it does the job very well an inexpensive too if anything seemed a bit dirty still a scrub with an old toothbrush and pop back in works a treat
You have proved that a good clean and lube will improve running.Showing how to take apart and of course put back together is a timesaver.Thanks Sam.
You normally seem to fix them pretty well Sam , so I’m gonna say yes you can XD
haha sort of - not a 100% success, but there is some improvement! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, I found this video last night and it's been really useful. I picked up an Oxford Adams tank from eBay as a non-runner last year. On arrival, it was completely dead, a bit of fiddling around and a clean-up did get it running - but barely. The loco would inch forward and backward and it could just about move one coach. I gave it another clean, check the chassis would roll, etc but no change in performance. I assumed the motor was kaput. Having watched this video I thought I'd give it one last go. I followed the strip down - I love the trap door - and removed all the original grease. I oiled up the mechanism and reassembled and hey-presto the engine is now flying around my layout pulling 6 coaches with ease. Just to note the torque on mine does seem to be pretty good, if put my finger infront of the loco I'm getting some good wheel spin. Many thanks for this video, it's saved a loco from the scrap heap!
I miss your old servicing videos, you should do more. Don’t remember seeing one for years so when did you release the one you mention at the start of the video.
Sure Rob - got much more like this coming this year! Here's the other one I did: ua-cam.com/video/yFeSnTvr0R0/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, two things to check magnets probably gone week you can get a machine on line to re- energizer the magnets. however far more likely is weak brush springs/ dirty commutator. Great video, stay safe.
Good ideas Richard - though these particular motors use neodymium magnets, so there's no chance of those growing weak over time. Could be onto something with the weak springs, though these motors are a bit of a devil to access... I haven't dared try it with these as of yet!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam you may be correct on the magnets not loosing power with age but that presupposes they had some go in them in the first place. you should be able to feel the poles as you rotate the arm, the more defined the better. if it turns with little in the way of definition three or 5 steps depending on number poles then the magnets are shot. looking at the crappy far east motor in these engines I would not be surprised.
Thanks for that, I've just recovered 2 Adams Radials that I bought cheap as poor runners and could never get going properly, one was worse than yours and the other about the same. Both gearboxes stuffed with that ghastly grease, both running very well now.
You should do a follow-up to this and see how they perform a while later, comparing the different lubricants. I'm surprised you've not tried WD40 :)
A small (cheap) ultrasonic cleaner can also be useful for cleaning intricate parts. I managed to revive the motor from my Bosch drill by ultrasonic cleaning. The brushes/commutator were dirty causing sparking. As a sealed unit I wasn't able to dismantle it, but it did have some ventilation slots in the motor casing which enabled the ultrasonic cleaner to do its job.
This can be a very satisfying part of the hobby, especially when you have bought a very cheap reject and fix it.
One dodgy swap meet trader sold me a dud. Discovered how to fix it easily. So enjoyed telling him at the next meet that he sold me a dud but I fixed it simply. Of course without telling him what fixed it when he asked.
This was a Stewart F7 A unit with a Kato drive. Nearly unknown to have a problem with such a high quality item.
My speed and amp draw testing showed it to be much slower and had much higher amp draw than the rest of my fleet of Kato F units.
Disassembly testing showed the motor only was fine. Turned out the universal shafts to the gear towers were different lengths slightly and meant for different ends of the loco. Once the shafts were in the correct ends the drivetrain no longer was jamming up. Result , a beautiful running loco as usual for these Kato drive locos at the pinnacle of good running.
Thanks a lot John - haha good story, very glad you told him so too... I once met a trader who wasn't happy at all when I found a fault in a model he'd sold me... gave me some cock-and-bull story about it! Wonder if it was the same one?! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains mine is in Australia.
Great video, Sam, as per usual, they both certainly seem a lot smoother running. Would be great to see you servicing a couple of diesels too...
Thanks so much! Got something along those lines coming up! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I actually think this is one of the most enjoyable parts of the hobby. Nothing beats the satisfaction of plonking down an old stinker on the track and see it purr!
Especially when you have bought a very cheap reject and fix it.
One dodgy swap meet trader sold me a dud. Discovered how to fix it easily. So enjoyed telling him at the next meet that he sold me a dud but I fixed it simply. Of course without telling him what fixed it when he asked.
I know your probably not going to see this comment, but I really liked this type of video as well as the one similar to this that you did on The LMS 10000 and Flying Scotsman. I also used to enjoy your servicing streams, and we haven’t seen a series of livestreams from you in ages generally speaking.
Saw two Adams in a model shop yesterday with a big discount. Was tempted as they looked lovely. Very glad to see this. Cheers!
What is important to me,is the details on the mechanism.If it has a flywheel,quality of motor,proper axle bearings,the weight,is it noisy,etc.This info is not usually given,so it nice to watch your informative videos.
Yeah I look out for those too - glad to hear the vids are of use!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
John here-I'm on the other side of the pond modeling in On30, but your videos are a real help, and just the idea of not being afraid to disassemble a loco is compelling. Now, if you would attempt a Bachmann On30 2-4-4-2.................Thanks for your video!
Hey Sam. Ive been enjoying your videos lately, great physics today. I have a video idea or layout addition, but I’d live to see you make a station on the layout.
Thanks so much!! That's a grand idea too - I'd love to try a station some time! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I'm really amazed by your electrical and mecanical skills young man ! For me, everything more complex to use than a screwdriver is beyond my abilities... Find the idea to check the lubricant requires some experience I clearly don't have, you teached me something today !
By the way, I have adopted the easy way to solve those problems on mine : I've bought the Hornby Adams Radial and I am waiting for the Dapol prairie... Anyway, it's a good thing to find simple but astute solutions to this problems. Even if the Hornby Prairie is clearly underpowered.
For my own, I had botched the insall of a DCC decoder in my B2 Peckett, the wiring is too flimsy and I cutted it off by trying to fit a decoder. I'm waiting for a wired decoder to solder in her, I have no other solution except sending it back to Hornby to get it repaired. For my Dapol B4, retrospectively, I am happy to have bought one with the decoder prefitted...
Thanks for the video !
Sam. Keep these coming as they give a good idea of the various mechanisms. In Australia you cant just send faulty ones back, you have to repair them yourself. I have a Hornby Castle, not that old with a cylinder block fouling the con rods. Turns out the cylinder block is in at least 5 parts to be assembled. Getting the parts in exact alignment is very tricky. Love you to do a strip down
Thanks so much Peter - ahh of course you can't, what a pain that must be for you!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Loved the video Sam can't wait for the next one have a good week
Thanks so much Seb - you too my friend! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Looks like another banger video has been given to us.
Thanks Sam.
haha thank you - hope you enjoy it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Fantastic video Sam - I really enjoy these servicing and repair videos. I've got an Oxford Rail Adams Radial that also runs fairly slow so (if I'm brave enough) I might follow what you did and see if it improves.
Thanks so much mate - yeah only go for it if you're confident... but you can take your time and do it at your leisure!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, Very interesting 'investigation' and your results speak for themselves. I have exactly the same engines. The Adams Radial ESU - DCC sound fitted had the 'incline' problem but the running is fine. The Large Prairie was another story fixing the bogie and pony trucks and also the keeper plate friction on the axels. It was dripping with oil but I didn't check the gear oiling and need to investigate as you showed. The pulling power and rail contact is related to the weight and the Prairie does benefit from adding some but doesn't fit the job as a shunter on my RR. Nice models but fragile & picky pullers. Thanks for showing the in-depth chirurgical improving works !
This is great! I missed the latest couple of vids so I’m here apologising! But this was really fun, great video!
That's okay mate - great to see you back again! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Glad to be back i can already tell I'll enjoy this.
Thanks Rex - hope you do mate! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thanks for this Sam, it has been a lifesaver! I went to Frome model shop, after they relaxed the lockdown rules; and they were selling their Oxford Rail's Adams locomotives off and so I bought a couple, EKR and the BR Early (only £50 each). Surprise surprise I got exactly the same problems you experienced, The EKR got really really hot and run really really slow, barley moving sometimes, the BR Early just ran very slow, it did not get hot. I have followed your video spending the whole morning doing this to my EKR. When I opened my EKR, it looked like the gears had been coated with trickle not lubricant and an excessive amount of it to boot. It took me an age to clean it all off everything, it was everywhere, and I mean everywhere! However, having cleaned it all off and given it a service, it now runs well in both directions, - hmmm how do you measure well? I am really pleased it does not get hot now and runs at a constant if a little slow speed in both directions. But if you give it anything to pull, it struggles and gets a bit warmer, as you say the motor does not seem to be up to the job, but it runs noticeably better than it did before in both directions. Now I just have to do it all again to my BR early version.
It's my pleasure Martin - yes so many of those Oxford tanks suffer from this, such a pain! Definitely far too much lubricant used - and it sure is a nuisance to clean it all off too... great to hear it's better now though!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thank you Sam for making this happen !
I think this is the best video you've done so far Sam.
It’s great you got those two working as they should Sam, it’s sad to see poor-running locos sitting on shelves or in boxes so this is great for people that own items like these. For me, I’m more of a diesel person but I’m thinking about purchasing a steam loco so thanks for sharing this video 🙃
Thanks mate- they're definitely a bit better anyway, if not perfect! Sounds good- hope you enjoy whatever you go for! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
hi sam,thank god i still have my Triang jinty and dock shunters that do not fail.keep up the good work
haha you're right - all these years on, and still going strong!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I reckon you should do another video upgrading the motors in these locos and see if they improve like you did with Smokey Joe. I liked this video seeing the mechanism in detail!
Sure - if I can ever find a suitable replacement, that'd be fantastic!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, I love all things Prairie, my Hornby large Prairie arrived and ran well odr seconds from new... until it threw a coupling rod! Poor build quality seems to be normal these days. Even my new and eagerly anticipated Dapol Mogul dropped it's underframe on the tender when running in.
Sams Mum : I keep getting metal flakes on my dishes?
Great video Sam. Knowing how to fix them will take so much frustration out of this hobby, especially at the cost of locos. You're the man Sam!!
haha!! And thanks mate, appreciate it!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hey Sam a very interesting tear down, my suggestion would be to see if you can find a way to recharge the motor magnets, this will improve power and reduce current consumption. Is there room to get a couple of tiny neo magnets in there?
Hey Mike - they already use neo magnets I believe - they definitely feel strong at any rate, and they act directly onto the armature!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Oh ok just an idea, does seem as if the motor is under powered, no hidden components in series with it are there?
Very interesting vid. Re. the Oxford Adams Radial I emailed their technical department a few weeks ago and was advised to clean the gear train. I have 2, one ran fine but the other was slow. After a clean as you have done it runs much better too - same issue with lack of viscosity. It would appear that the problem is something Oxford are aware of - they were very helpful.
Doctor Sam is in the house! I do like that Adams Radial. I have a Dapol Mogul on it's way to me. I'm so looking forward to adding it to my collection!
haha!! Yeah I do too... and enjoy the Mogul, truly excellent models those! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Always good when you can fix something yourself you get a good experience and a whole wealth of knowledge from doing this sort of stuff I find.
Thanks a lot David - that's it - always worth having a go.... unless it's new, then I'd say return it!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Another interesting and informative repair! You need to do more of these.
I have a brass hybrid Broadway Limited loco I bought for a fantastic price because it would not run. Turns out the lube had gone solid and after a nice clean it is now a nice runner.
Thanks so much - ooh very interesting - must have been a satisfying fix!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
An interesting exercise Sam, although why you should have to see such a thing on these newer models goodness only knows. Excellent as always...Bob
Brake down of model trains, fantastic, very detailed and informative
Nice work! It would be interesting to try swopping the motors - as you did to a different loco in a previous video
Hi Sam, thank you for a great video. I have a super slow running Oxford Dean , I will apply your wonderful knowledge to this loco, maybe it is just what it needs.
Thank you Sam
Kind regards Chris.
Some lovely tips and advice to fix ho locomotives, very useful!
Thanks a lot - that's good to hear! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video Sam. I really enjoyed watching you service these locos especially when I commented on a previous video as to whether you did or not. You certainly can teach us a lot. Now the next question is….. are you going to replace the motors on these and make them worthy to run on your layout. If you do I hope you show it as I would definitely love to see it.
I'm a newbie and my soldering has been described as a 'bobo' or 'a big ole 'scab'. You have inspired me to go dig in my hopeless loco.
Ahh you'll get better with practice - don't give up!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
As for the issue with the adams radial I had a similar problem with a 50+ year old full metal 2-8-2 mikado locomotive from mantua and the problem with the slowing down was due to a gear that was cracked for who knows how long that after it ran for a while before I knew what was wrong the gear would expand and thus stop the thing dead in its tracks even though it could pull 30+ box cars
Regarding the Adam's Radial tank engine, I purchased the same one ages ago but it hasn't been run much. I guess it will require a strip down and removal of old grease as i guess it will be pretty solid by now. Lubricant wise I know woodland scenics do a great range of gear grease for model locomotives.
Hi Sam, Great review, can't they just upgrade the motor, They charge enough money when you buy them , (Love the air line impression) All the Best Brian 🤗
Thanks Brian - yes I think that's what's needed... pity they don't use better ones!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I know this is years on but get a cheap thermal camera adapter for your phone. Its the absolute simplest way to troubleshoot anything on the power scales that these trains run at. If anything is binding or shorted it will show up clear as day.
Sam From a antique shop I got a really strange wagon that has chains in the middle It has the Couplings like your Mahno western train
great video. maybe you could explain the different parts of the motor / mechanism and what they are called. or a video showing the anatomy of common diesel and steam locos.
Thanks Tim - see this video, I did exactly that: ua-cam.com/video/Ud-_46Ki9Xw/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Found the Prairie strip down useful/interesting, didn't even know you could get into those gears and I'd had the bloody body off an hourish prior to lubricate it before running it in.
Always good to see old locos get restored!
Thanks Will! :D
my OO Gauge Terrier in the LBSC Livery had that same problem, my Dad had to clean off some of the gears, cause their was Way too much lubricant on the geartrain...
The livery is not the issue. The unstated make of the model is the issue.
Hi Sam
Great video, thank you.
My Large prairie has been bad from new. No pulling power and gradually gets slower and slower. I suspect the motor but have changed it with no real improvement, also the gearbox to worm drive is not particularly good... sadly as I love the model.
Very interesting. You certainly couldn't have done any more with them. But, honestly, an older model with an XO3 motor would haul 4 old coaches with sleeved wheels better than that. The magnets in then new motors look a bit undersized. Maybe that accounts for the lack of torque. I wonder if there is a high torque replacement out there. Beautiful looking models though 😊👍
More! More! Sam. I've just checked on other comments but no-one seems to pick up your disparaging remarks about the 'lead-free soldering Chinese people' - What do you recommend for solder? Leaded? Or is it just dry joint problems? Excellent video - I am truly delighted when there's a remarkable improvement! Roger King (below) must have read my future mind as I watched you cleaning those small parts. A few years ago and for just £20. I bought, from LIDL(!) a SilverCrest SUR 46 B1 Ultrasonic Cleaner - made by HOYER HANDEL GMBH. Kuhnehofe 5 D-22761. One is, I think, supposed to use "water for topping up lead-acid batteries" in it - there should be debate on this subject - I have thought of using such stuff as Meths, or White Spirit instead (Roger King has used IPA [isn't that Indian Pale Ale?!] and automotive brake cleaner) 3 push-button controls (Start, Set, Stop) and fitted small basket - probably takes about a cup - or less - whatever.
Hi Sam. I have some trains you might like for restoration! A class 67 in particular. Missing front bogie and a few other things. Was my childhood train. It’s a Wrexham & Shropshire edition :)
Great video, would love to see what happens if you fit a replacement motor.
Thank you! If I can ever find a good replacement, I'll sure do a video on it!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I ran my oxford radial tank the other day, seemed very slow. Needs a new DCC chip now, but that's a separate issue. So yeah, I'll be doing this fix soon. Probs fix my split chassis bachmann b1 at the same time, no idea why that suddenly cut out.
As for KR Models, my GT3 I took the front pony truck off so I could get at the screws to disconnect the lower front light (temporarily, as I'm gonna have to rewire the pcb in the tender to make it run off the 2nd function output so directional, as well as adding red lighting gel to it so its a rear marker light), reassembled it, screwed it tight, and it still turns very freely. So you must've reassembled it wrong when you disassembled it before first testing it. So in the future, maybe disassemble the loco to see what the mechanism is like after running in?
The cavity is for the decoder. As per the small box area in the sentinels, and bachmann did similar but also chose to fill the void with a weight for better DC performance. It's a shame the large prairie still runs badly. I'd only be tempted by one if they do it in GWR lined green with the BRITISH RAILWAYS lettering in the GWR font, as I have seen that done. I've got a SR malachite green terrier and a LNER apple green a1 and a LNER unlined black b16/3 with BRITISH RAILWAYS lettering (I'd love Mallard as E22 in post-war garter blue with that lettering as per the 1948 exchange trials), but no LMS or GWR examples yet.
Thanks for sharing - I think you should give me a little more credit than that though - I'm capable of re-fitting a front bogie properly... there's no doubt that my GT3 front bogie was faulty... how many different ways are there to screw down a screw?! At any rate, it dropped to pieces... I didn't take that apart anyway!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam. Great video, very informative. You stress the importance of good lube so can you please tell us what your recommended lube oil and grease is?
Awesome video sam
Great job. I would never have attempted that myself.
Great video, Sam. Good job.
Thanks Juan! :D
Interesting video sam thanks.
I think I mentioned this before but it seems that some British OO manufacturers seem to install those small, square motors that look like HO scale slot car motors in their locomotives, even the relatively large road engines. You don't see them in American HO locomotives, not even in small switchers/shunters. In N scale locomotives yes, but not in HO scale. Too much load for them. Those motors you examined aren't much bigger; so, to me, they could be a slow burnout risk trying to carry the heavier weight of an OO loco and their larger drive trains and pulling the weight of a consist.
If it is possible perhaps swap them out for larger motors?.
Hard to get the gears to mesh reliably with the common UK method used of the worm on the end of the motor shaft. Rare to see a gearbox with universal joint shaft to motor in steam UK models. That design allows easier motor swaps.
Sam's reviews useful in showing these poor hard to change motors with fixed mounting design.
I got my old model trains and coaches and whatnot back and has been great but I don’t have my controller so I’m just dusting and cleaning it all
So I don’t know what is faulty or not such as my class 390, 68 HST, 2 37s and some steam shunters
Have to wait till I get a chance to look in my nans attic
You have so much patience Sam
My Oxford Rail Adams radial tank I stripped it down and removed all the old grease and oil and cleaned all the parts put it back together and it worked a treat. I think the grease they used was too thick
Great to hear that - quite a lot of stories saying how well that worked! I wonder if I left mine too long, and they've sustained motor damage from the strain?
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
It's amazing what a good clean up of excess oil can achieve, even if it only solves part of the problem! What type of motor was in the second engine you investigated? 3 pole, 5 pole, coreless and would that have made any difference etc? Best, Pete.
It is actually Pete - even I was surprised how well this worked, at least with the Oxford loco. These both had 5 pole skew wound motors - appeared to be the same motor in each interestingly!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Flushing out a gear tower with solvent is a good method of freeing a sticky gear system. However, there's 'flushing' and there's flushing. The solvents don't work instantly on a lot of crud. They need time to dissolve what's in place. Then, you must begin to flush. That means successive dips, shakes, swishes, and then repeating in new solvent until the remnants of the offending material to be removed is truly gone. IOW, this, like many endeavours worth doing, takes TIME.
Awesome job. On a side note, will you be doing a review on the Caledonian 812 coming soon
Fascinating! I wonder what Hornby and Oxford Rail have to say about their defective motors?
Hi Sam, just rewatched this video. My local model shop is selling Oxfords Adams radial tanks for £50. Fully aware of the faults addressed I am still tempted but not 100% sure. Is your radial working well 3 months later after removing that old grease?
Im thinking this just in case I get one and it is the same. I’d like to know if it would possibly fix them for a long term or not.
Cheers
Matthew
Hello Sam, maybe You can improve the performance even more if You reduce the mechanical friction of the plastic gear wheels by honing their flat surfaces with 1500-2000 grid wet- paper on a flat surface?
Crackin video again sir! Anyway to change or upgrade the motor? It’s such a shame that 2 lovely looking loco’s have such issues..
Thanks so much - yeah a motor upgrade would be the only way to truly fix these I reckon!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Am I odd in preferring to fix up, make look good loco's etc than actually building up a layout? I am thoroughly enjoying rebuilding my very very early Triang DMU and still yet have to lay down a working set of tracks other than a test track I have in the kitchen lol Just finished getting the power bogie (thanks to John's superb videos for help) down to its knickers and really taking my time in getting it all right, normally I am a watch collector and restorer but I am loving these little engines :D
I don't think you're odd - that's by far my favourite aspect of the hobby too! Sounds fantastic - all the best with your restorations! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
does the worm drive in the Adams Radial have the same hex fit in the flywheel that it does in the hornby prairie? if not, could it be the same issue that the LMS 10000 had?
When I reviewed Sam' I give him a high score for value.Would I pay Bachmann money for one? Probably not, but at this level of detail I can highly recommend him.
haha that's very good to hear - I am pretty darn well detailed!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I'd love to see you work on that BT well tank that thing needs some serious work
haha it's actually not too bad - just very light and doesn't look good!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I use degreaser then re oil with 3 in 1 light machine oil
Hmmm, I wonder, what the serial batch number for the large prairie Sam? Some research Barrie Davies carried out on the S15s found that different batches could have the motor problems that made the s15 notorious, while others were perfect healthy runners. I wonder if the same is true here…
enjoyed watching. Wanted to see if the prairie can be improved. I am sticking with the older one. Would like to see what the new one runs like with a replacement motor. That screw holding the front bogie is a bad design. These locos can be described as a curates egg partly good partly bad. Thanks for showing. Regards Paul.
Thanks a lot Paul - might be best to stick with the older one - my old one is a much better runner than this!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I now know who to call when my trains don't work 😁👍
haha! I'll be happy to try and help if I can! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
A thought regarding the 'sticky grease' - maybe the manufacturer uses grease designed to be used in hotter countries than uk? Regardless, It looks like the motor must be at fault. The lack of friction once you had serviced the loco suggests it can't be anything else. They do look particularly cheap compared to the semi can or full can motors. My money is on the fixed magnets being weak like someone else suggested, or their size/ magnetic field not optimised to the armature? By the way, you don't really need to de solder the motor, you could either buy or make an adaptor that goes in place of the decoder blank/ suppressor board you remove for DCC operation and plug your adaptor in to the female/ chassis DCC socket pins 1 and 5. You can buy 8 pin dual in line headers online for pennies. Then you have a test harness for the future that you can use on all your 8 pin DCC locos and no fiddly soldering burned fingers or melted wire. The same idea would work for other decoder pin types. Finally since both Hornby and Oxford subcontract their manufacture I guess both these locos come from the same factory, hence the mechanism similarity.
Hi Sam, the other day I stumbled on a UA-cam channel called oobill, he specializes in repairing faulty locomotives and I noticed he uses a product called Electrical Contact Cleaner. It comes in a pressure pack can and has a long nozzle. It might be worth checking it out to see if it is worth using. I have not yet tried this product mainly because I have not had a locomotive that needs repairing. Cheers Greg
Thanks a lot for the comment Greg - yes I've bought some of that actually to test, not tried it so far though!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video Sam!
A question... Why do you check the gauge inside the wheel flanges?
The gauge is actually between the insides of the rails so don't you need to check the outside of the wheel flanges?
The wheel flanges could be different thicknesses on different locos.
(Or even different wheels on the same loco if they're really bad!)
Keep up the good work!
Thanks Eric - I measure the back to back (crucial for points, where most derailments happen), and then the thickness of the flange, to give me the front-to-back gauge... this is the most thorough I can be! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
hi i have an extremely old hornsby steam train, i,m trying to get it working. The motor is receiving power and is spinning well, everything has been oiled however neither the worm gear or wheels are turning. I have no idea how to fix this. Can anyone help?
Sam, what about the over hearing issues on the adams? And how long did you run it around before any issues arouse again since you done a lubricstant change? Please see this and let us know feedback on this issue.
I seem to remember that bad/weak magnets in a model motor can also cause poor running and excessive power-draw; have you ever checked if your models have ropey magnets?
New sams trains video lets gooo 😳
Thanks Sushi - enjoy it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
More technical side of the hobby dose make for a reasonable extension of the channel's scope in my opinion.
Afterall there were already videos on regauging and ... lets call it more creative projects with the underwater train, the supercharge train and alike.
The power of glue or as some manufacturers call it "lubricant".
that was oddly satisfying to watch. ..lol It's always good to periodically open them up and give them a good once over and cleaning. Maybe the factory grease they use is just a bit too thick and gums up too much dust and particles. Could be the plastic gears/teeth, or maybe dirt accumulation on the wheels reducing conductivity. Could a new "can" motor be fitted to these to make it run better.
Hey Sam, I recently bought the BR green Hornby prairie and my one runs fine. So I’m assuming maybe a bad batch is to blame with the fault on yours?
Glad to hear that - yes I am 90% convinced it's the motor to blame on mine!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Please make more of those type of videos.
Great work, I have a worse model than both of those, my Bachmann 57, it is the worst model I own, it refuses to pull a single coach, I have just left it in the box lol
Uh oh sorry to hear that Andy - I'll give that a wide berth then!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Interesting that the motors look exactly the same 🤔
Are they possibly made in the same factory?
Motors from the same parts bin?
As ever these instructional type videos are amazing
You should do more, it sounds like there are plenty of people who feel the same
Locos are a lot more complicated than the old Triang and Hornby Dunlop etc !
Keep it up Sam
I always watch your videos as they’re so varied and not too serious 😊
Most likely, remember Oxford Diecast and recently Oxford Rail have worked with hornby on supplying items like cars and buildings. I also noticed a few months ago that there was a special offer for the Oxford Rail Janus shunter on Hornby's posts.