I built my first rocket (an Estes X-Ray) back in 1969 at the age of 12. My Uncle was a Physics professor who had always encouraged me to be interested in the space program. Not much encouragement needed there in the 60's! I took all the paper route money I had earned as a substitute to buy the rocket and the launch base that used 8 D size batteries. I tried my first launch with my Uncle in attendance, the igniter didn't work, no matter what I tried. I was not one to cry but this brought me to tears. I wanted to do things the "right" way but never used that launch base again despite the cost. I went to lighting my rockets with fuses like my friends. Later in life when I picked up rocketry again (in the late 80's) I built my own launch controller with safety interlock, that uses a car battery. wanted to make sure there was enough current!!!!
The newer Estes igniters are VERY sensitive to voltage/current. I had enough trouble that I finally built my own launch controller that hooks to a car or motorcycle battery. No more problems. I’ve used it for 1/4A-T clear up through E9 engines. Thanks Tim for another great video. Can’t wait to meet you some day!
I agree completely, I now have a pyrotechnics controller that runs off 230v with an inverter and boat battery. Works every time and has 8 channels. Way overkill, absolutely.
Very helpful. My grandson in 5th grade has a rocket project and I had no idea how they worked. Now I'll be able to help him with a successful launch. Thanks.
Hi Tim. I just wanted you to know I think your website is great. I think your companie's great because you try to educate and not just sell. I am on the notification list for the Zepher and can't wait. It will be my first big rocket and after a long break from even low powered models. I do hope your suppliers get their act together. I went through the same issue in a retail hardware store about 20 years ago. You have a customer in me for life.
I'm one of those ancient Born-again rocketeers, (started in 1968) and I'm afraid I have to say that the old Estes igniters I used back in the '60s and '70s, were more reliable that the ones Estes is selling today. I also had a spool of nichrome wire, and could just cut off a three inch strip, and bend it to shape. I typically used a very small piece of parachute wadding as a plug to hold them in.
Glad you found them helpful. Don't feel being a beginner is bad. We all started there. But now you have us to guide you! We're in your corner rooting for you.
The videos from this channel are super helpful. One complaint, PLEASE keep the volume between the video and your intro at similar levels. I turn up my volume for Tim but the intro is much louder
To-Not silent majority- I assumed the 9 volt controller is the Quest controller which I have used with old Estes igniters. Just because you get a light (Estes) or buzzer (Quest) does not mean the battery is good, it is a continuity light/buzzer which tells you clip are hook up to leads. Maybe you battery was weak. The clips fall off continuously, which is why after a a few launches, squeeze the clips together insuring they mate, nice and flat. Use a used engine or tape to keep the rocket a few inches off the blast defector. Bend leads as Tim stated, also make a loop at each igniter end so the clips grabs 2 pieces of wire vs one. Estes clips are weak. Model rockets motors propellant is close to the nozzle so if you put igniter all the way in ...put the plug in it should make contact with propellant. Yeah you can test igniters in your garage, kinda of cool to see it burns....but of course you just wasted an igniter,
The still photo shown adds a key procedure not covered in the video: After the igniter and plug are properly installed, place 90 degree bends-in opposite directions-where both alligator clips attach. This moves the terminals further apart and greatly reduces the the chance of a short. It also seems to give better electrical contact so if you’re having problems launching, try this simple change and try again.
This is good advice! Bend that shiza upwards as much as you can to avoid launch pad contact, also I replaced my alligator clips with ones that have a shield around them.
Thanks for the great video, Tim. I'm having issues with the orange Estes launch controller...My daughter and I have tried a few times to get the igniter to light inside of the rocket on the launch pad with no luck. We took apart the controller to troubleshoot and everything appears to work as it should, including lighting the igniter at my workbench with the same new batteries that we used in the field. Took it to the field, installed correctly, and nada. take it out of the rocket, and the igniter works just fine. I made sure the clips weren't touching each other or the deflector plate. It's so simple, yet I feel so defeated! haha!
When you're out on the field, is the igniter being burned? You didn't say. If it is, then the igniter isn't in the motor all the way. If it isn't, then your igniter is probably being shorted out - such as the clips being touched together, or they are touching the metal blast deflector. Be meticulous about doing it right, even when you are absolute sure you are.
@@apogeerockets Thanks for the reply. No, the igniter isn't burning inside of the rocket, only when I take it out and test it in my hands. I'll make sure the clips aren't touching the launch pad, and I'll be replacing the batteries with non-generic versions.
I built the Estes Apolo 11 back in the mid 90's or so, I got that same launch system back then, insert that round stock like, Had problem at launch time & it was a faulty battery.
The plugs make the difference. The new igniters use a vegetable based element and not a pyrogen which makes them not considered hazmat for shipping. That is one reason why they are more sensitive and the colored plugs matter.
My son and I are brand new to model rockets. We tried to launch our first rocket yesterday but each attempt failed. I changed igniters, engines and double checked the light bulb "test' on the launch controller. Today I checked our controller with the 9 volt battery and it tested good according to the instructions. I had another controller that I had purchased separately and it took 5 AA batteries. After switching to the controller with the 5 AA batteries our rocket launched perfectly several times. Is it common for a controller to have a good battery and test properly but to not work for the ignter? Initially we thought the engines were bad because the rocket kit and engines and igniters were unopened Christmas gifts from a couple of years ago but today they worked fine with the other controller. The brand new engines and igniters I bought today still didn't work with the 9 volt controller. How common of a problem is this? Is there a better, stronger launch controller and are there more reliable igniters available? Being new to rockets my son and I appreciate your channel and have liked and subscribed. Thanks for all the info and instruction.
It is very common for cheap people that refuse to test their systems by actually "burning an igniter." If you don't push the button and actually see the igniter burning, you can't know if the system is actually working. Burn an igniter before you start.
@@apogeerockets It wasn't until we saw your video that we actually burned the igniters while they were not in the motors. We didn't even realize that we could/should burn the igniters when they weren't in the motors. Everything has worked out great and we are hooked on model rockets. Just wondering though, is it fairly common for a controller to light up in test mode but not be able to ignite the igniter? Thanks again for the great instruction. Best wishes.
@@notsosilentmajority1 It is VERY common to happen --- IF --- 1) If you have low batteries 2) If you have a bad igniter 3) If you have a defective controller with a loose circuit inside. Eliminate those three conditions, and you will NEVER have a controller not work when you push the button.
notsosilentmajority1 It pays to have a multimeter to test connections and battery voltage otherwise you’re just guessing. I just finished making my own launcher tonight with some cool switches and lights. I watched another video that said you need to be able to have about 6 watts and 2 amps available to send enough to an igniter. Well I put four CR123s in series for 12 volts and 1.5 amps. The igniters light instantly. After burning a few test ones I’ve lost about a volt from the batteries. They will recover a little bit over time. But I’d think a single 9v would weaken and become unreliable fairly quickly on its own for this purpose. They are cheaper compared to cr123s. I maybe should have just went with a pair of 9v. You want more than enough power, not the bare minimum.
You will only get the light on if you have a good igniter connected to the clips. That is the way you know it is a complete circuit and you're ready to launch.
Have some Estes Sonic series 2 igniters someone gave me, but they don't look like this. They must work differently, but not sure how. Wish they had covered high power igniters..
I had a situation recently where I could not get this one engine to fire. I swapped the igniter out twice, and each time the igniter went off, but the engine didn't. The igniter even melted the plug plastic a little. Another engine from that pack failed mid-flight, shooting flaming propellant out the top of the rocket, so I think it might have been a manufacturing defect.
Unfortunately, as I mentioned in the video, it is not a dud (manufacturing defect) motor. It will ignite if the igniter is installed correctly. I know that you believe you installed it correctly, and I'm not trying to say you didn't. But even seasoned rocketeers have mis-fires because something prevented the tip of the igniter from touching the black-powder inside the igniter. I know it is frustrating. That is why you have to be careful on how you install the igniter, and why I made this video. The motor cato-ing mid-flight could have been caused by a lot of factors. Usually not a manufacturing defect, but more likely a hairline crack in the propellant. There is no way to tell what went wrong. Just be careful handling the motors, so they aren't subject to shock (like dropping them on concrete), or temperature or humidity cycling. The big problem is that you don't know what gorillas handled the motors before you got them, so you don't know how they took care of them.
Good advice, next most important thing is that the launch pad rod sections transition smoothly and that the rocket guides themselves fit the launch guide rod with enough tolerance... Trust me. I've never burned a hole through my launch pad with a C6 motor...doh.
@@apogeerockets oh I see, but with core burning ones, like sugar rockets you gotta ignite them at the top? Kinda struggling with inserting a reliable ignition source to the top of the core.
I know three of three Estes controllers I have from China doesn’t work as they should. Build your own or do it old school American style or the kids will be disillusioned by an amazing hobby.
this video was extremely helpful, but please balance your audio. you don't need to have someone quietly speaking shortly before cutting to an incredibly loud intro. this video was made in 2019 by professionals. there are no excuses for this
@@apogeerockets if you balance the audio, fairly simple to do, you will see your videos travel the internet further and wider. I have videos on my professional page that went from low 10’’s to half a million views based largely on cleaning up the audio and cutting the small talk. My son and I love your videos. Thank you. “Please note that the equalizer button is placed below the video title on the UA-cam website. Simply click on the equalizer button to view the drop-down list.”
I built my first rocket (an Estes X-Ray) back in 1969 at the age of 12. My Uncle was a Physics professor who had always encouraged me to be interested in the space program. Not much encouragement needed there in the 60's! I took all the paper route money I had earned as a substitute to buy the rocket and the launch base that used 8 D size batteries. I tried my first launch with my Uncle in attendance, the igniter didn't work, no matter what I tried. I was not one to cry but this brought me to tears. I wanted to do things the "right" way but never used that launch base again despite the cost. I went to lighting my rockets with fuses like my friends. Later in life when I picked up rocketry again (in the late 80's) I built my own launch controller with safety interlock, that uses a car battery. wanted to make sure there was enough current!!!!
The newer Estes igniters are VERY sensitive to voltage/current. I had enough trouble that I finally built my own launch controller that hooks to a car or motorcycle battery. No more problems. I’ve used it for 1/4A-T clear up through E9 engines. Thanks Tim for another great video. Can’t wait to meet you some day!
I agree completely, I now have a pyrotechnics controller that runs off 230v with an inverter and boat battery. Works every time and has 8 channels. Way overkill, absolutely.
Very helpful. My grandson in 5th grade has a rocket project and I had no idea how they worked. Now I'll be able to help him with a successful launch. Thanks.
I'm happy the video did its job. Have a great time with your grandson. You're putting him on a very good career path if he sticks with it.
Hi Tim. I just wanted you to know I think your website is great. I think your companie's great because you try to educate and not just sell. I am on the notification list for the Zepher and can't wait. It will be my first big rocket and after a long break from even low powered models. I do hope your suppliers get their act together. I went through the same issue in a retail hardware store about 20 years ago. You have a customer in me for life.
I'm one of those ancient Born-again rocketeers, (started in 1968) and I'm afraid I have to say that the old Estes igniters I used back in the '60s and '70s, were more reliable that the ones Estes is selling today. I also had a spool of nichrome wire, and could just cut off a three inch strip, and bend it to shape. I typically used a very small piece of parachute wadding as a plug to hold them in.
I grew up in Saudi Arabia and supplies like igniters were not easy to get. We made our own as you did, nichrome wire.
Awesome thank you. Our first time with model rocketry and really appreciate the clear explanation.
I am a beginner. I really am impressed with the instructional video Apogee does! Really helpful:)
Glad you found them helpful. Don't feel being a beginner is bad. We all started there. But now you have us to guide you! We're in your corner rooting for you.
The videos from this channel are super helpful. One complaint, PLEASE keep the volume between the video and your intro at similar levels. I turn up my volume for Tim but the intro is much louder
Gregory Robben agreed
To-Not silent majority- I assumed the 9 volt controller is the Quest controller which I have used with old Estes igniters. Just because you get a light (Estes) or buzzer (Quest) does not mean the battery is good, it is a continuity light/buzzer which tells you clip are hook up to leads. Maybe you battery was weak. The clips fall off continuously, which is why after a a few launches, squeeze the clips together insuring they mate, nice and flat. Use a used engine or tape to keep the rocket a few inches off the blast defector. Bend leads as Tim stated, also make a loop at each igniter end so the clips grabs 2 pieces of wire vs one. Estes clips are weak. Model rockets motors propellant is close to the nozzle so if you put igniter all the way in ...put the plug in it should make contact with propellant. Yeah you can test igniters in your garage, kinda of cool to see it burns....but of course you just wasted an igniter,
The still photo shown adds a key procedure not covered in the video: After the igniter and plug are properly installed, place 90 degree bends-in opposite directions-where both alligator clips attach. This moves the terminals further apart and greatly reduces the the chance of a short.
It also seems to give better electrical contact so if you’re having problems launching, try this simple change and try again.
This is good advice! Bend that shiza upwards as much as you can to avoid launch pad contact, also I replaced my alligator clips with ones that have a shield around them.
we have one of those rockets and when we launched it it just frazzled but did not fire. are going to trie
again tomorrow. thank you
Thanks for the great video, Tim. I'm having issues with the orange Estes launch controller...My daughter and I have tried a few times to get the igniter to light inside of the rocket on the launch pad with no luck. We took apart the controller to troubleshoot and everything appears to work as it should, including lighting the igniter at my workbench with the same new batteries that we used in the field. Took it to the field, installed correctly, and nada. take it out of the rocket, and the igniter works just fine. I made sure the clips weren't touching each other or the deflector plate. It's so simple, yet I feel so defeated! haha!
When you're out on the field, is the igniter being burned? You didn't say. If it is, then the igniter isn't in the motor all the way. If it isn't, then your igniter is probably being shorted out - such as the clips being touched together, or they are touching the metal blast deflector. Be meticulous about doing it right, even when you are absolute sure you are.
@@apogeerockets Thanks for the reply. No, the igniter isn't burning inside of the rocket, only when I take it out and test it in my hands. I'll make sure the clips aren't touching the launch pad, and I'll be replacing the batteries with non-generic versions.
I built the Estes Apolo 11 back in the mid 90's or so, I got that same launch system back then, insert that round stock like, Had problem at launch time & it was a faulty battery.
Thank you for years I've been doing it wrong. Thank you for all the information I have become a better Rocketeer
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
This was very helpful!!! Thanks, Tim Van Milligan
GUYS !!!!! GUYS !!!!!! GUYS !!!!! IHave Been Shootinng Off Estes Rockets Since 1973 !!!! I am Third Time Rocketeer. Igniters are easy to make !!!
The plugs make the difference. The new igniters use a vegetable based element and not a pyrogen which makes them not considered hazmat for shipping. That is one reason why they are more sensitive and the colored plugs matter.
My son and I are brand new to model rockets. We tried to launch our first rocket yesterday but each attempt failed. I changed igniters, engines and double checked the light bulb "test' on the launch controller. Today I checked our controller with the 9 volt battery and it tested good according to the instructions. I had another controller that I had purchased separately and it took 5 AA batteries. After switching to the controller with the 5 AA batteries our rocket launched perfectly several times. Is it common for a controller to have a good battery and test properly but to not work for the ignter? Initially we thought the engines were bad because the rocket kit and engines and igniters were unopened Christmas gifts from a couple of years ago but today they worked fine with the other controller. The brand new engines and igniters I bought today still didn't work with the 9 volt controller. How common of a problem is this? Is there a better, stronger launch controller and are there more reliable igniters available? Being new to rockets my son and I appreciate your channel and have liked and subscribed. Thanks for all the info and instruction.
It is very common for cheap people that refuse to test their systems by actually "burning an igniter." If you don't push the button and actually see the igniter burning, you can't know if the system is actually working. Burn an igniter before you start.
@@apogeerockets
It wasn't until we saw your video that we actually burned the igniters while they were not in the motors. We didn't even realize that we could/should burn the igniters when they weren't in the motors. Everything has worked out great and we are hooked on model rockets. Just wondering though, is it fairly common for a controller to light up in test mode but not be able to ignite the igniter? Thanks again for the great instruction. Best wishes.
@@notsosilentmajority1 It is VERY common to happen --- IF --- 1) If you have low batteries 2) If you have a bad igniter 3) If you have a defective controller with a loose circuit inside. Eliminate those three conditions, and you will NEVER have a controller not work when you push the button.
@@apogeerockets
Thanks again. This is a great hobby that's fun for children and adults. We really appreciate all of your insight. Thank you.
notsosilentmajority1 It pays to have a multimeter to test connections and battery voltage otherwise you’re just guessing. I just finished making my own launcher tonight with some cool switches and lights. I watched another video that said you need to be able to have about 6 watts and 2 amps available to send enough to an igniter.
Well I put four CR123s in series for 12 volts and 1.5 amps. The igniters light instantly. After burning a few test ones I’ve lost about a volt from the batteries. They will recover a little bit over time. But I’d think a single 9v would weaken and become unreliable fairly quickly on its own for this purpose. They are cheaper compared to cr123s. I maybe should have just went with a pair of 9v. You want more than enough power, not the bare minimum.
When I place batteries in my control the light does not come on, does it Only turn on when I am plugged in on the igniters?
You will only get the light on if you have a good igniter connected to the clips. That is the way you know it is a complete circuit and you're ready to launch.
@@apogeerockets Oh ok, Cause I put in batteries and wanted to see if my controller worked. But I will have to wait to get my motors to try it. Thx
Thanks I'm heading back to the launch pad but first will test the igniter.
Have some Estes Sonic series 2 igniters someone gave me, but they don't look like this. They must work differently, but not sure how. Wish they had covered high power igniters..
You might want to watch this video on igniters: ua-cam.com/video/MRfcEB8q5pw/v-deo.html
I have 9volts going to my igniter and it won’t light only warm up
Extension chord,and jumper cable's !
I had a situation recently where I could not get this one engine to fire. I swapped the igniter out twice, and each time the igniter went off, but the engine didn't. The igniter even melted the plug plastic a little. Another engine from that pack failed mid-flight, shooting flaming propellant out the top of the rocket, so I think it might have been a manufacturing defect.
Unfortunately, as I mentioned in the video, it is not a dud (manufacturing defect) motor. It will ignite if the igniter is installed correctly. I know that you believe you installed it correctly, and I'm not trying to say you didn't. But even seasoned rocketeers have mis-fires because something prevented the tip of the igniter from touching the black-powder inside the igniter. I know it is frustrating. That is why you have to be careful on how you install the igniter, and why I made this video.
The motor cato-ing mid-flight could have been caused by a lot of factors. Usually not a manufacturing defect, but more likely a hairline crack in the propellant. There is no way to tell what went wrong. Just be careful handling the motors, so they aren't subject to shock (like dropping them on concrete), or temperature or humidity cycling. The big problem is that you don't know what gorillas handled the motors before you got them, so you don't know how they took care of them.
So i tried launching my first rocket today with no luck. I switched the generic AA batteries with Energizer AA's and that resolved my issues.
What is the voltage needed for the igniters? And do all rockets use the same igniters?
The one he used supplies 6V so its at least 6V
To answer your 2nd question, I believe so.
I was wondering you I could just use a fuse or A Electric Start against . A large Match Head? Any advice
The safety code for model rocketry prohibits fuses. see the nar.org website for the complete safety code.
Apogee Components thank you for the link
And you offer AMAZING VIDEOS
Please keep it up
HUGE MORALE BOOST
thanks! had trouble with my first launch this helps
Good advice, next most important thing is that the launch pad rod sections transition smoothly and that the rocket guides themselves fit the launch guide rod with enough tolerance... Trust me. I've never burned a hole through my launch pad with a C6 motor...doh.
I use a high cranking amp car battery!, 800 to 1000 cranking amps,or 800 cold cranking amps!
Brad Gustafson is that effortless ? Or is that 800 cranks
Never used a crank charger
My flashlights a press crank not a true crank
Yeah but how do I fix the controller if it doesn't get heated up
Better batteries.
Nice 4 square box cover for you’re base
What is the voltage of your battery? It is 9v, 12v or more?
For this controller, it is 6V.
Thank you… very helpful and clear
Great instructions!
can i also make tnt rockets ? or cruise missiles ? make a cruise missile tutorial pls !
The government would like to talk to you about your intentions of having a cruise missile.
Very Helpful. Nick Brown.
Thanks for watching!
Shouldn't the ignited ignite the top end of the engine?
Black powder engines are ignited at the bottom. they are end-burning motors, not core burning motors.
@@apogeerockets oh I see, but with core burning ones, like sugar rockets you gotta ignite them at the top?
Kinda struggling with inserting a reliable ignition source to the top of the core.
@@ValMephora See our website. We have lots of alternatives.
The ignitor is basically a fuse.
I know three of three Estes controllers I have from China doesn’t work as they should. Build your own or do it old school American style or the kids will be disillusioned by an amazing hobby.
The original price was $25.99 when it came out in 1989.
very cool
this video was extremely helpful, but please balance your audio. you don't need to have someone quietly speaking shortly before cutting to an incredibly loud intro. this video was made in 2019 by professionals. there are no excuses for this
Sorry. We are not professional video production people. Our specialty is model rockets.
@@apogeerockets if you balance the audio, fairly simple to do, you will see your videos travel the internet further and wider. I have videos on my professional page that went from low 10’’s to half a million views based largely on cleaning up the audio and cutting the small talk. My son and I love your videos. Thank you.
“Please note that the equalizer button is placed below the video title on the UA-cam website. Simply click on the equalizer button to view the drop-down list.”
@@CC-tm5hj Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't know there was a button on UA-cam for this type of thing.
SIR HOW TO MAKE ROCKET MOTOR 🥳
www.apogeerockets.com/Rocket-Books-Videos/Books/Experimental-Composite-Propellant
@@apogeerockets ok