Damm they have a great football team and now they have the big machines for woodworking. And to think people say southerners are backwoods lol.. I guess my LSU tigers will have to just stay with our little board cutting . really love your video. Loved to see all that horsepower making that wood so beautiful..
Thanks for the video Robert. When flattening really warped wood like that I sometimes use a cedar shingle to shim the back corner up about half the rock to give me 3 point contact until it gets a little ways onto the outfeed table. Makes it a little more stable.
Question: On your planer beds do you find it necessary to wax it and if so what wax are you using ? Having trouble with my 16 inch planer from feeding straight. Thinking the bed needs wax but the SC Johnson wax I have seen on other videos is not available here.
Waxing should not be necessary to properly feed boards, only to protect from rust. Waxing, even if it works, would simply be hiding the symptom, instead of foxing the problem. 90% of issues with planers is due to the pressure bar, if it has one. Then, the height and downforce adjustment of the pressure rollers. Any furniture wax would work, or even Boeshield or similar. Do not use any car wax with silicone, as that causes the furniture finish or stain to speckle. Beeswax would work, also. If your rollers are urethane, they may need to be cleaned.
Do you normally run with or without the guard? Having never owned a jointer, I'm watching you and worried about catching the sweatshirt in the near side of the blade head.
I was wondering when someone would catch that, and it took about a year. No, we have a real nice guard, but removed it when we made this video the second time. When I made this video, I ran with the guard on and we couldn't see anything about how the machine was cutting. So we had no usable video and made a decision to remove the pork chop guard to see how the cutters were actually biting into the wood. We had to film parts of it a second time, and I thought I had put a disclaimer on the video such as "All guards are removed for film purposes" or something like that, but missed. This is one of the reasons filming is such a pain and time waster. The job went from an easy "Let's face these boards and move on" to "Well, we just wasted a lot of time setting up and narrating, and couldn't actually see anything, and now have to do it all over." Major waste of time. Good to hear from you.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama You did have the disclaimer in there, but was wondering if you really did keep it on when normally jointing boards like that. For example with my 1953 delta unisaw, I put the guard on once when I got it, then took it off for good because you can't see what you're doing with it on. I was wondering if your jointer was like that, or if you worked normally with the guard on, and you've been clear that you keep it on. I walk with Bob in Canada a lot, once or twice a week. You come up a lot as a good example of things in your discussions. Hope you're enjoying this time of year! Thanks Robert, Brad_bb
One more thing, in the video you're jointing short pieces. How often are you jointing 8ft boards? Is there a technique to holding and pushing them through to do it well. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 12" jointer. I have my first load of walnut back from the kiln and I would like to prep it so I can put it on my shelves, not so sell mind you, just for my use. You can tell me just try it and you'll figure it out, if that's the case. It won't offend me.
We face a lot of 8 foot boards, but if the bow is more than what can be removed and still make minimum thickness then we cut them in half. For example with an 8' board, at 15/16" thick, if the 8 foot bow is more than 1/8" then that much must be taken off each face to flatten it removing 1/4" total wood. That would cause the board to be less than 3/4" and so becomes unsellable. So we consider that with every board.
Yes, it's our third try to get one that can do what we want. All it takes is a checkbook. This Facer came from Italy, and is arguably one of the best on the market, very similar to the old pattern makers facer. Very accurate, very fas. We've run many hundred thousand board foot through it, never an issue.
I could tell you enjoy working with the big planer, the grin on your face was a giveaway! 😁 Enjoyed the video!
I love this kind of stuff. Big machines, big wood. lots of chips.
Wow, I need to start saving my pennies for a facer now, it would save a lot of boards!!!
Yes, we use it every day.
Damm they have a great football team and now they have the big machines for woodworking. And to think people say southerners are backwoods lol.. I guess my LSU tigers will have to just stay with our little board cutting . really love your video. Loved to see all that horsepower making that wood so beautiful..
Roll Tide! I like horsepower, it sounds cool. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video Robert. When flattening really warped wood like that I sometimes use a cedar shingle to shim the back corner up about half the rock to give me 3 point contact until it gets a little ways onto the outfeed table. Makes it a little more stable.
Great tip!
Excellent video!!! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Great video. Sure is nice having the right tool for the job. Yes I do it just like that.
Thanks 👍
Hobby place with 12K jointer. Interesting.
Right? We are just a little ol' hobby shop. :)
Nice machines you have there. Do you ever have time to do some wood working of your own?
Yes, but I just don't video it.
I for one would like to see some of your work. @@HobbyHardwoodAlabama
Future video idea: Discuss the waxed paint you use on the board ends, color code you use and how to determine where is required or not.
I like it, will will make a video about it soon.
Can you set up a feeder?
Had one, it fed great, but I couldn't get the level of flatness I wanted, so we went back to hand facing.
Cool hats! Are they special purpose?
Question: On your planer beds do you find it necessary to wax it and if so what wax are you using ? Having trouble with my 16 inch planer from feeding straight. Thinking the bed needs wax but the SC Johnson wax I have seen on other videos is not available here.
Waxing should not be necessary to properly feed boards, only to protect from rust. Waxing, even if it works, would simply be hiding the symptom, instead of foxing the problem. 90% of issues with planers is due to the pressure bar, if it has one. Then, the height and downforce adjustment of the pressure rollers.
Any furniture wax would work, or even Boeshield or similar. Do not use any car wax with silicone, as that causes the furniture finish or stain to speckle. Beeswax would work, also. If your rollers are urethane, they may need to be cleaned.
Do you normally run with or without the guard? Having never owned a jointer, I'm watching you and worried about catching the sweatshirt in the near side of the blade head.
I was wondering when someone would catch that, and it took about a year. No, we have a real nice guard, but removed it when we made this video the second time. When I made this video, I ran with the guard on and we couldn't see anything about how the machine was cutting. So we had no usable video and made a decision to remove the pork chop guard to see how the cutters were actually biting into the wood. We had to film parts of it a second time, and I thought I had put a disclaimer on the video such as "All guards are removed for film purposes" or something like that, but missed. This is one of the reasons filming is such a pain and time waster. The job went from an easy "Let's face these boards and move on" to "Well, we just wasted a lot of time setting up and narrating, and couldn't actually see anything, and now have to do it all over." Major waste of time. Good to hear from you.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama You did have the disclaimer in there, but was wondering if you really did keep it on when normally jointing boards like that. For example with my 1953 delta unisaw, I put the guard on once when I got it, then took it off for good because you can't see what you're doing with it on. I was wondering if your jointer was like that, or if you worked normally with the guard on, and you've been clear that you keep it on. I walk with Bob in Canada a lot, once or twice a week. You come up a lot as a good example of things in your discussions. Hope you're enjoying this time of year! Thanks Robert, Brad_bb
One more thing, in the video you're jointing short pieces. How often are you jointing 8ft boards? Is there a technique to holding and pushing them through to do it well. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 12" jointer. I have my first load of walnut back from the kiln and I would like to prep it so I can put it on my shelves, not so sell mind you, just for my use. You can tell me just try it and you'll figure it out, if that's the case. It won't offend me.
We face a lot of 8 foot boards, but if the bow is more than what can be removed and still make minimum thickness then we cut them in half. For example with an 8' board, at 15/16" thick, if the 8 foot bow is more than 1/8" then that much must be taken off each face to flatten it removing 1/4" total wood. That would cause the board to be less than 3/4" and so becomes unsellable. So we consider that with every board.
What brand is the facet?
It's a 20 inch SCMI with Xylent head, 8.5 hp.
Do you rent time on those planers and jointers? I live in your zip code.
No, sorry,
Most woodworkers would sell their children for a jointer like that!!!🤣🤣 nice having the right tools, isn't it?
Yes, it's our third try to get one that can do what we want. All it takes is a checkbook. This Facer came from Italy, and is arguably one of the best on the market, very similar to the old pattern makers facer. Very accurate, very fas. We've run many hundred thousand board foot through it, never an issue.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama I have a 16" old iron jointer with straight knives, wish it had spiral like all my other stuff.