You know what? I love this. I feel its so doable for me, AND you showed me how crucial it is to have a simple (and possibly double sided) shooting board. I now feel confident in making both. Gracias.
@@imadethischannel Ha! I made 2 bench hooks/ shooting boards this weekend, and I made your magnetic saw guide, just a lot longer (12"). I used the small shooting board today (so useful!), and I'll use the larger ones tomorrow on a big project. Thank you for the inspiration and guide :)
What wood species are you using in this project? The reddish one looks similar to some tropical wood species found in and near Indonesian islands. The difference I see in appearance might even be down to differences in video versus naked eye. Certain tropical woods can be polished almost like stones and you can't quite appreciate it without seeing the results with the naked eye.
So I have been using my 14" long magnetic saw guide, made out of teak, for 2 days. I was cutting 5cm/ 2" thick wood, that was 12"/ 30cm long. My Japanese saw is only 265cm long, and the usable length is less than that. I found that the saw got chewed up by the teeth quite quickly, as I had to come in from both sides, and it really affected the 90deg cutting ability. It got ugly, which I couldnt afford. Thinking how to adapt it: make a thicker fence like you did, and shave off the chewed off parts with a plane until its straight again until the sacrificial fence is all used up, then start again? Or do you think adding a thin strip of metal on the cutting face of the saw guide will do the trick?
The way I deal with it is trying to hold the saw as straight as possible in the beginning so that only a narrow strip near the bottom of the guide is chewed up by the set of the teeth. This way, you always keep enough un-marred reference surface on the guide. I wouldn’t have es metal because it may damage the saw. I have seen people use strips of plastic but in my opinion that is the same effect as letting a thin strip of wood be worn away. You still have to be careful in keeping the saw parallel.
@@imadethischannel You're right of course, the answer is relatively simple. I guess after a day of picking up and shaping lumber, my delicacy leaves the building and I just want to get things done. I did notice that I could use the saw with just 2 fingers yesterday, and though it cut slower (groan), it still worked. I was thinking of using aluminium which is soft enough to give warning of errant cuts but not damage teeth too much. On the other hand, might as well use a sacrificial fence and use stronger/more magnets for when there is a lot of heavy cutting to do. Cutting small, thin stock like most people do in cities, is easy with the guide. Timber framing is a different kettle of fish for straight cuts with a Japanese saw. It requires skill and careful dedication to be straight and accurate to the mm.
Yes, the drill press was a lucky find. I don’t know if there is a special name. It is hard to find information on them. I think mine was made in the 1930ies by a company called Ixion in Germany.
Thanks for watching! If you would like to support my channel and watch all my videos without ads, please check out my Patreon page: www.patreon.com/imadethischannel
I made a guide of my own recently and cannot get straight cuts with it and I can't figure out why! It's square, straight, flat and I'm using a ryoba as well, yet towards the end of the cut the saw veers off track some. I was testing on a 2x4, do you think thats too thick for a guide to be accurate the whole cut?
Hey, I think in principle the thicker the material the more difficult it is to make a straight cut. Is your inaccuracy systematically always in the same direction? Then it might be a problem with your jig. But you also have to make sure that you are pulling the saw with as little deflection from the line of cut as possible. When you make a deep cut, the cut itself becomes the guide.
@@imadethischannel thanks for replying! You were right, it was the jig, my jig is made differently, I added a backer to it so I could clamp it to my workpiece, think of it like an L shape, but the backer is only 1-1.5" wide, and when I clamped it would very slightly alter the angle of the front by pulling the jig towards the clamp. So to avoid this, I clamp from the side and that maintains the perpendicular angle! I also swapped to a back saw to ensure there was no flex in the saw plate if I add too much pressure
Ah good point! The plywood is cut off the first few times I used this bench hook. Now there’s a very small gap. Even if I cut off a little bit it doesn‘t matter because the plane‘s blade doesn‘t go all the way to the edge. So it will always be at a right angle.
It was made by a company called Ixion in Germany, probably in the 1930s. I made a video about it when I got it: m.ua-cam.com/video/bLpGtnz4YFU/v-deo.html
Hello I Made This If you don’t have this book it about jigs and fixtures using magnetic strips: Woodworking Joinery by Hand: Innovative Techniques Using Japanese Saws and Jigs Paperback - January 17, 2023 by Toyohisa Sugita (Author) Be Well and thanks for sharing
Nice Job. I Love your drill press.
You know what? I love this. I feel its so doable for me, AND you showed me how crucial it is to have a simple (and possibly double sided) shooting board. I now feel confident in making both. Gracias.
Yes, do it!
@@imadethischannel Ha! I made 2 bench hooks/ shooting boards this weekend, and I made your magnetic saw guide, just a lot longer (12"). I used the small shooting board today (so useful!), and I'll use the larger ones tomorrow on a big project. Thank you for the inspiration and guide :)
Elegant use of basic tools. No noisy machine sound.
Thanks!
I love your working methodology, simpilicity of projects and silence of videos. Also, your video edit is fantastic. Keep what and how you do.
Thanks!
So good...I want one of those drill presses now!!
Haha, thanks! Yes, they’re nice.
This is where you end up!
it's the best.
Really good the way you hid the magnets.like the drill press.
Thanks! And yes, the drill press is a lot of fun!
Great little jig. Simple, but effective. Good job!
Thanks!
Thanks! Made one after watching this video. Nice drill press btw😀
Great! Thanks, the drill press is one of my favourites as well.
How nice! Beautiful and useful! 👍🏻 Thank You! 😊
Thanks for watching!
Perfekt! Und Version 2 kommt mit Winkeleinstellung? ;-)
Haha, vielleicht!
Very cool project!!!
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up for your channel
Great, thanks!
@@imadethischannel You're welcome!!
What wood species are you using in this project? The reddish one looks similar to some tropical wood species found in and near Indonesian islands. The difference I see in appearance might even be down to differences in video versus naked eye. Certain tropical woods can be polished almost like stones and you can't quite appreciate it without seeing the results with the naked eye.
Hey, thanks for watching! The reddish one I think is sapele. The lighter one is beech.
Brilliant jig, dude! Beautiful work! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks again! Stay safe with your family, as well!
LOVE the hand crank drill press! Where did you get it?
I bought it from a local classifieds site. The thing is really great. I can absolutely recommend it!
So I have been using my 14" long magnetic saw guide, made out of teak, for 2 days. I was cutting 5cm/ 2" thick wood, that was 12"/ 30cm long. My Japanese saw is only 265cm long, and the usable length is less than that.
I found that the saw got chewed up by the teeth quite quickly, as I had to come in from both sides, and it really affected the 90deg cutting ability. It got ugly, which I couldnt afford.
Thinking how to adapt it: make a thicker fence like you did, and shave off the chewed off parts with a plane until its straight again until the sacrificial fence is all used up, then start again?
Or do you think adding a thin strip of metal on the cutting face of the saw guide will do the trick?
The way I deal with it is trying to hold the saw as straight as possible in the beginning so that only a narrow strip near the bottom of the guide is chewed up by the set of the teeth. This way, you always keep enough un-marred reference surface on the guide.
I wouldn’t have es metal because it may damage the saw. I have seen people use strips of plastic but in my opinion that is the same effect as letting a thin strip of wood be worn away. You still have to be careful in keeping the saw parallel.
@@imadethischannel You're right of course, the answer is relatively simple. I guess after a day of picking up and shaping lumber, my delicacy leaves the building and I just want to get things done. I did notice that I could use the saw with just 2 fingers yesterday, and though it cut slower (groan), it still worked. I was thinking of using aluminium which is soft enough to give warning of errant cuts but not damage teeth too much. On the other hand, might as well use a sacrificial fence and use stronger/more magnets for when there is a lot of heavy cutting to do. Cutting small, thin stock like most people do in cities, is easy with the guide. Timber framing is a different kettle of fish for straight cuts with a Japanese saw. It requires skill and careful dedication to be straight and accurate to the mm.
Where did you get that drill press
I got it from a local classifieds site in Germany.
Brilliant! 👌🏼
Soon a rip-off on AliExpress 😑
Haha, probably from plastic, though!
@@imadethischannel …plastic for sure with that typical strong smell .. 🤤
That’s a really cool drill press? Does it have a special name?
Yes, the drill press was a lucky find. I don’t know if there is a special name. It is hard to find information on them. I think mine was made in the 1930ies by a company called Ixion in Germany.
It’s so simple! 🤦🏻♂️ Why didn’t I think of that?!
Thanks for watching! If you would like to support my channel and watch all my videos without ads, please check out my Patreon page:
www.patreon.com/imadethischannel
Great idea!!
Thanks!
Where did you get the hand cracked drill?
I was lucky and got it from a local classifieds site in Germany.
I made a guide of my own recently and cannot get straight cuts with it and I can't figure out why! It's square, straight, flat and I'm using a ryoba as well, yet towards the end of the cut the saw veers off track some. I was testing on a 2x4, do you think thats too thick for a guide to be accurate the whole cut?
Hey, I think in principle the thicker the material the more difficult it is to make a straight cut. Is your inaccuracy systematically always in the same direction? Then it might be a problem with your jig. But you also have to make sure that you are pulling the saw with as little deflection from the line of cut as possible. When you make a deep cut, the cut itself becomes the guide.
@@imadethischannel thanks for replying! You were right, it was the jig, my jig is made differently, I added a backer to it so I could clamp it to my workpiece, think of it like an L shape, but the backer is only 1-1.5" wide, and when I clamped it would very slightly alter the angle of the front by pulling the jig towards the clamp. So to avoid this, I clamp from the side and that maintains the perpendicular angle! I also swapped to a back saw to ensure there was no flex in the saw plate if I add too much pressure
Great! It’s learning by trial an error :)
Its a very good idea...
Thanks!
AWESOME!!!👍👍👍
Super vidéo ! C'est très reposant de te regarder travailler 🤗. J'adore tes vidéos merci
Thanks!
Great work! We want more videos!! :D
Thanks, more videos are coming!
Very nice
Thanks!
Nice your drill
Please make video Drill Press
Yes, the drill press is great! I made a short video about it:
ua-cam.com/video/bLpGtnz4YFU/v-deo.html
How you plan with your plane, not damaging the platform, sir? 🤔
Hey, I‘m not sure what you mean.
I mean, the plane blade cuts off excess wood on parts, but does not damage the plywood stand
Ah good point! The plywood is cut off the first few times I used this bench hook. Now there’s a very small gap. Even if I cut off a little bit it doesn‘t matter because the plane‘s blade doesn‘t go all the way to the edge. So it will always be at a right angle.
@@imadethischannel Thanks! 🌿🌿🌿
what is the drill press?
It was made by a company called Ixion in Germany, probably in the 1930s. I made a video about it when I got it: m.ua-cam.com/video/bLpGtnz4YFU/v-deo.html
👍
Hello I Made This
If you don’t have this book it about jigs and fixtures using magnetic strips:
Woodworking Joinery by Hand: Innovative Techniques Using Japanese Saws and Jigs Paperback - January 17, 2023
by Toyohisa Sugita (Author)
Be Well and thanks for sharing
Hey, thanks for watching! The book sounds interesting. I‘ll check it out!
The piece of wood at 4:34 and 4:40 are not the same piece of wood.
True, well spotted :) I messed it up and started again.
Sweet!😁🛫
Thanks!
Try Renaissance Wax instead
What’s that? Will it make the thing even more old fashioned?
Just wooow, want want want, mom, buy! 🥹
Haha, I guess mom will have to make one for you…
@@imadethischannel for sure, BY HERSELF