All I was asking is many people said the fire mark is on the right , I was saying it was on the left. But many said it was on the right. ( when using a timing light ).
you can play around with it, just dont go too far beyond factory specs otherwise you can cause detonation, playing around with it advancing timing generally pumps up low end and mid range power at the expense of higher end power, retarding timing extends the power more on top end but softens the low/mid, its like anything in tuning, you usually give up something somewhere to increase something else. Kitted bikes may also have swapped out the oem ignitions for something a bit smarter meaning theres a curve to it meaning you may have it advanced a few degrees lower down then it'll retard higher up meaning you get the best of both worlds.
I saw the cutout of your piston, in the video. The opening of the cylinder reveals it. Since I recently replaced the stock piston with an aftermarket one, it's clear the aftermarket pistons have a much smaller cutout in the piston skirt than the stock pistons. The stock piston's cutout is closer to the wrist pin and wider. I think that actually results in less restriction with the stock piston, so that the aftermarket piston restricts the performance, is this possible? Thanks for the content. Keep up the good work. בס'ד
So after some math I think the flywheels are not a perfect 360 circumference. The Diameter listed on all sites for this flywheel is 116mm. If you do the math it gives you 364.24mm as the circumference.
So I'm working on a za50, I can't get the timing below 23 degrees. I assume the plate needs to be cut to allow it to move to be able to get to 16 degrees?
Can wrong timing consums very quickly piston rings? My 50 cc after i replace rings it loses compression after i while and difficult to start lose power and dont keep idle I already tried different cilindar .. etc but same prob always
@@Corn-ped without rejecting means? Yes i have airfilter.. i have increased piston from 38mm standart to 39.5, i have both in same way done.. One is okay since long time.. the second is eating rings very fast and losing compression.. dont know why ..
I cut a rectangle out of my cylinder, that was the hardest step but now im that much closer to getting this thing running!
yeah it really helps you see what you are doing! Save the piece you cut out for later.
😂
Doing the Lord's work out here!
you too man!
@@Corn-ped ❤
great video. "how to use a piston micrometer" might be another good, quick video.
I got one of those!
All I was asking is many people said the fire mark is on the right , I was saying it was on the left. But many said it was on the right. ( when using a timing light ).
I have a pile of tools you can film! Ill leave them out in the alley.
ON MY WAY
Love it.... what about a kitted bike? Still 16mm btc?
I usually end up around 17-18mm on a kitted bike
@Corn-ped doin tha Lloyd's work overhere for us not so smrt folks! Thank yous!
you can play around with it, just dont go too far beyond factory specs otherwise you can cause detonation, playing around with it advancing timing generally pumps up low end and mid range power at the expense of higher end power, retarding timing extends the power more on top end but softens the low/mid, its like anything in tuning, you usually give up something somewhere to increase something else.
Kitted bikes may also have swapped out the oem ignitions for something a bit smarter meaning theres a curve to it meaning you may have it advanced a few degrees lower down then it'll retard higher up meaning you get the best of both worlds.
I saw the cutout of your piston, in the video. The opening of the cylinder reveals it. Since I recently replaced the stock piston with an aftermarket one, it's clear the aftermarket pistons have a much smaller cutout in the piston skirt than the stock pistons. The stock piston's cutout is closer to the wrist pin and wider. I think that actually results in less restriction with the stock piston, so that the aftermarket piston restricts the performance, is this possible?
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
What cut out are you referring to on the piston? If the skirt is longer on the intake side it can restrict performance.
Where do I buy that light bulb spark plug holder at?
So have one that has degrees? That one you show is unusable for me.
Just do the same thing but with degrees!
So after some math I think the flywheels are not a perfect 360 circumference. The Diameter listed on all sites for this flywheel is 116mm. If you do the math it gives you 364.24mm as the circumference.
Tho I would think that being 4.24mm off the total circumference would mean your only off by like 0.011mm which is negligible.
time to get out the string!
@@thunderlessemoto1209 yeah I have not measured yet. but it would be that far off.
So I'm working on a za50, I can't get the timing below 23 degrees. I assume the plate needs to be cut to allow it to move to be able to get to 16 degrees?
yeah either notch the stator plate or run it without a woodruff key.
@@Corn-ped thank you that what I thought. But it don't hurt to ask.
Can wrong timing consums very quickly piston rings?
My 50 cc after i replace rings it loses compression after i while and difficult to start lose power and dont keep idle
I already tried different cilindar .. etc but same prob always
Sounds like you have other issues. Do you have an air filter? Did you do performance modifications without rejecting?
@@Corn-ped without rejecting means?
Yes i have airfilter..
i have increased piston from 38mm standart to 39.5, i have both in same way done..
One is okay since long time.. the second is eating rings very fast and losing compression.. dont know why ..