This is the only start to end comprehensive dual power multiple battery video I can find. Didn’t answer all the little nuances for my build but great info!! Thanks
Thanks man I appreciate it. Sorry no demo in this video. There are some short clips in the videos after this one that show it. I don’t have great luck with these amps and switched to a Taramps HD8000
Nice build Boss and this video gives full information & I will use this as my build platform, can you explain why you don't do long runs of negative cables? Are there any benefits to running dual negative cables from the front to the back?
Thanks so much! This is the only clear video I could find after digging through the internet and you didn't waste a bunch of time explaining it.do you recommend tacking in an nvx isolator in the rear if I play for short periods with the engine off? Short as in less than 5 minutes.
Hi sir, quick question for you, what are the size of the fuse that u use between the front battery and the rear batteries? Also, why are you fusing the same run of cable at 2 different places? ( close to front and rear batteries )
I’m using 300 amp fuses with a 250 amp alternator. There’s a lot of vibration and body panels moving that wouldn’t normally move without a system like this so I use one at both ends of the charging lines mostly for extra protection.
You fuse at both ends to prevent fire lol. You want your fuses within 12' of the amps and batterys . The point is ... cables actually vibrate and move as amperage moves through them. Not only because its a " system like that" a 10ga wire on 200watts will do the same thing with literally no base lol. The fuse is to disconnect the battery in the event of a meltdown aka dead short. In reality if your alt at max does 250amp you should only have a 250amp fuse . Now the fuses to your amp can very but it is known fact that you need 100amp per 1000 real watts of fuse . So an amp that puts out 2k rms you need a 200amp fuse . 3k 300 and so on . The fuses to the amp not only protect the battery but your amplifier in case of dead short .
New sub to your channel here and i just wanted to stop by and say cool videos mate! There are a lot of diy car audio channels on yt but only a few of them are good and inperational. HArd to describe but i guess you know what i mean haha! Anyway, great work man! (Sorry for poor english, swedish guy here.)
+Rob Echo In my opinion fuses are more for protecting against a ground short (Jacket on power wire wears down and touch metal i.e. Running wire through firewall)
Is it okay in the long run to run an an OEM stock wet cell starter battery with an AGM (kenitic) in the back with isolator? I'm still doing my research and need to know if I will eventually need to get an AGM up front as well, as I've read you shouldn't really mix the 2 types of batteries.. Thx
Do you need to run the negative wires fro battery to battery or can you just ground them to the frame and just connect the positive wires to each battery and then to the amp?
@@AmplifiedCarAudio So if I have 2 batteries in trunk in parallel, its best to use sperate grounds and connect one ground from 1 battery to the next aswell?
Hi I’m running 3 batteries 2 under the hood one in the back of my suv. Right now I have positive to positive and both batteries grounded at different places for the two under the hood and the third battery ground to my seat. I have two fuses under the hood would I need another one to run power to my third battery or can I just jump it off my second fuse to run back to the third battery also would I need a inverter or anything? having power issues and I know I need a bigger alternator but have a big agm battery just laying around so trying to see if that would help
Definitely a good idea to have a third fuse for the run of cable going to the rear battery. The seatbelt may not be a good place for a ground because there’s paint on the bracket and then paint between the bracket and the floor of the vehicle so you may not be getting the greatest connection.
@@AmplifiedCarAudio ok gotcha I forgot to add that. Took my seats out sanded both sides then bolted back down. The two batteries under my hood are standard and one in car is agm. Would it be best to run in series or parallel
Not necessarily. An isolator would be used if you were going to be playing your system without your engine running. It would keep one battery from discharging so you could still start the vehicle.
+levelle partee They are shy high terminals. Hers a link to the ones I used rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292250417585 They will work with side posts you may have to drill out the mounting hole a little bit
so that ground where the spare tire used to go is actually a good ground? I was gonna use the spot on the unibody frame next to the exhaust hanger bolts
+iBamHard king The spare tire mount seems to be working for me. I have thought about running a couple more grounds to the same location you're talking about but on the driver side just to see if it makes a difference, a couple extra grounds never hurt. How many batteries will you be running.
AmplifiedCarAudio right now two kenectik 2400s and a Northstar 220. I'm going to attempt to do more grounds upfront tomorrow. then I'm going to try that spot u did as well in the back
The quick answer is yes. However it’s really going to depend on what you’re running for equipment. A 90 amp alternator or a 20 amp charger would also charge them. If you’re looking to run a “5000” watt Boss amp then you’ll be good. However if you’re looking to run 2 Crescendo 10k’s or something like that you’d need a bigger alt. and more batteries.
AmplifiedCarAudio well the car is a 05 magnum 5.7 wit a 160 amp alternator. I have a rockville db45 for my highs a hifonics brz 2400 for subs. Know for subs i currently have 2 15s cvx by kicker, but just today i ordered some 2 skar audio ddx 15s subs.also have connect a clarion equalizer a kicker crossover and a epicenter. For batteries i have a 2000 hc kinetik battery to start the car and 1800 kinetik as a secondary battery but was planning to put the stock battery back and my 2 kinetiks for the audio so that will be 3 batteries in total.
I did everything like u did . I got 1 Walmart battery upfront n 2 xs 750 in the rear (pos to pos) grounded to the chassis n a 0 gauge from my main batt to charge the rears. Also did the big 3 . But when all the bats are in my right blinker goes nuts u can hear the relay firing like a 100 times a sec n my voltage meter on the dash drops. So I ran the system on just my front batt n everything works great. What’s ur take on the situation?? Please help a bro out
Thanks for the vid! But how does the alternator sensing lead fit into all of this? How can the alternator be monitoring only one battery (under hood battery) and yet still charge additional batteries in the trunk which, under heavy load with music, will drain more quickly/at a different rate than the under hood battery? I should clarify: I want two batteries in the trunk and one under the hood, I want 3 separate charging cables at the alternator post, one for each battery. Thank you!
For my set up I have a 250 amp alternator and I’m using 1/0 cable which can carry I believe somewhere around 300 amps. My alternator connects to my front battery and from there runs to the back 3 batteries. Once the batteries are linked to each other you can almost think of them as 1 big battery. Now if you have an alternator that produces more then 300 amps or if you have more then one alternator then you would want multiple runs of 1/0. Now don’t get me wrong if you want to run all of that cable then you can do that it’s just not necessary.
@@AmplifiedCarAudio Thanks a bunch! I was just having a hard time wrapping my head around how the alternator senses all three batteries when only connected to the front battery with the Sensing lead but you're right, it's just one big battery when wired in parallel. My FSM for my car states not to charge the battery in excess of 50 amps. I was wondering what would happen if I ran three charging cables from the alt, one for each battery and the sensing lead only monitoring the front battery? The alt would only charge the rear batteries based on the charge status of the monitored, front battery.
i like the front battery cabling but you don't need to parallel more then 2 jumpers because they all run through each other like a chain. i one batter goes bad then it'll damage or little discharge from lead batter. more then two jumpers the bad badder will damage those jumped batters.
Are those 4 fuses 50 amp fuse? Because 4x50= 200amp. Alt is 250a. So 50 amp for car electronics. Did you know you perfectly matched?. You skipped that part.
Could have save yourself 10ft of wire had you ran it up the pass side and under . Seeing as you have a battery bank across the rear . It was completely pointless to cross over . All you did was add resistance and lower your amperage capability. Its also a good idea to ground your amps to the shortest possible point. And to the frame not a spare tire bolt that just runs through the body. I personally would have welded a ground bar to either side of the frame and ran my grounds . The way you wired your grounds and amps is why you have such high resistance.
This is the only start to end comprehensive dual power multiple battery video I can find. Didn’t answer all the little nuances for my build but great info!! Thanks
Thank you and you’re welcome I appreciate it
thanks for that when ruuning multiple batteies its important to understand safe ways to set up the system. keep up the explonations.
Very Awesome video. I've seen a few videos on multiple Batteries install. But this one is very informative. Both audibly and visually.
Thank you .
awesome man thank you very much you explained everything I was looking for this is very appreciated
+Michael Baker Hey no problem. Glad I could help
Hell yes!👍👍👍👍
Awesome video man. New subscriber!
That's a very nice setup only thing is i wish u could have dun a demo that would have been awesome 👍🏼👍🏼✌🏼💪🏼🔈💪🏼🔉💪🏼🔊
Thanks man I appreciate it. Sorry no demo in this video. There are some short clips in the videos after this one that show it. I don’t have great luck with these amps and switched to a Taramps HD8000
I thought the same thing....i watched 1000 videos and you sir, were the best one i watched even showed it to my kids bc im doing same set up style
How do you know what size fuse you need from first to second battery?
Nice build Boss and this video gives full information & I will use this as my build platform, can you explain why you don't do long runs of negative cables? Are there any benefits to running dual negative cables from the front to the back?
Do the amps ground have to be connected to the batteries. If it doesn't what's the difference
Thanks so much! This is the only clear video I could find after digging through the internet and you didn't waste a bunch of time explaining it.do you recommend tacking in an nvx isolator in the rear if I play for short periods with the engine off? Short as in less than 5 minutes.
Thanks man appreciate it. And isolator wouldn’t be a bad idea.
How would you work on the system, do you have to disconnect all the ground from the batteries just to add a new amp??
Do you run a iso with this as well
Having the smaller middle battery isn't making the larger batteries discharge?
Yes Sir , you sure did , thanks
Gotcha, thanks for the reply
+Rob Echo No problem. I hope I helped you out. Thanks for watching
Love it for 04 Mercedes with 2 batteries I wanted to install 3rd battery what do u suggest
Should I run my amp ground to my 2nd xs power battery that's in the back still having low voltage
What kind of battery do you have up front
Hi sir, quick question for you, what are the size of the fuse that u use between the front battery and the rear batteries? Also, why are you fusing the same run of cable at 2 different places? ( close to front and rear batteries )
I’m using 300 amp fuses with a 250 amp alternator. There’s a lot of vibration and body panels moving that wouldn’t normally move without a system like this so I use one at both ends of the charging lines mostly for extra protection.
You fuse at both ends to prevent fire lol. You want your fuses within 12' of the amps and batterys . The point is ... cables actually vibrate and move as amperage moves through them. Not only because its a " system like that" a 10ga wire on 200watts will do the same thing with literally no base lol. The fuse is to disconnect the battery in the event of a meltdown aka dead short. In reality if your alt at max does 250amp you should only have a 250amp fuse . Now the fuses to your amp can very but it is known fact that you need 100amp per 1000 real watts of fuse . So an amp that puts out 2k rms you need a 200amp fuse . 3k 300 and so on . The fuses to the amp not only protect the battery but your amplifier in case of dead short .
New sub to your channel here and i just wanted to stop by and say cool videos mate! There are a lot of diy car audio channels on yt but only a few of them are good and inperational. HArd to describe but i guess you know what i mean haha! Anyway, great work man! (Sorry for poor english, swedish guy here.)
+Niklas Ericson hey man thank you very much. I really appreciate that.
Very good video , but do you have a fuse in between your alternator and battery, if not , why not ?
+Rob Echo In my opinion fuses are more for protecting against a ground short (Jacket on power wire wears down and touch metal i.e. Running wire through firewall)
So i have 2 batteries in the back do i ground both batteries to the chassis?
Yes
Did you parallel wire your front battery to the batteries in the back?
Yes. They’re all run parallel
Is your starter battery an AGM or wet cell battery?
The battery in the video was a wet cell but was changed to a Kinetik not long after.
Is it okay in the long run to run an an OEM stock wet cell starter battery with an AGM (kenitic) in the back with isolator? I'm still doing my research and need to know if I will eventually need to get an AGM up front as well, as I've read you shouldn't really mix the 2 types of batteries.. Thx
What are the brand of the battery terminal connectors
Sky high car audio
Do you need to run the negative wires fro battery to battery or can you just ground them to the frame and just connect the positive wires to each battery and then to the amp?
* from
Technically you could do that but doing both would be best.
@@AmplifiedCarAudio So if I have 2 batteries in trunk in parallel, its best to use sperate grounds and connect one ground from 1 battery to the next aswell?
Yes in my opinion that would be the best way.
@@AmplifiedCarAudio thanks for answering question, it really helped
Fkng outstanding!👍👍👍
Hi I’m running 3 batteries 2 under the hood one in the back of my suv. Right now I have positive to positive and both batteries grounded at different places for the two under the hood and the third battery ground to my seat. I have two fuses under the hood would I need another one to run power to my third battery or can I just jump it off my second fuse to run back to the third battery also would I need a inverter or anything? having power issues and I know I need a bigger alternator but have a big agm battery just laying around so trying to see if that would help
Definitely a good idea to have a third fuse for the run of cable going to the rear battery. The seatbelt may not be a good place for a ground because there’s paint on the bracket and then paint between the bracket and the floor of the vehicle so you may not be getting the greatest connection.
@@AmplifiedCarAudio ok gotcha I forgot to add that. Took my seats out sanded both sides then bolted back down. The two batteries under my hood are standard and one in car is agm. Would it be best to run in series or parallel
Definitely parallel. If you run two 12V batteries in series, you’ll end up with 24 V.
You dont need a isolator for multiple battery setups do you?
Not necessarily. An isolator would be used if you were going to be playing your system without your engine running. It would keep one battery from discharging so you could still start the vehicle.
What kind of battery terminals are those. Do they make them for side post batteries
+levelle partee They are shy high terminals. Hers a link to the ones I used rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292250417585
They will work with side posts you may have to drill out the mounting hole a little bit
Thanks again
+levelle partee No problem you’re welcome
How many batteries for 5000 watts rms??? I’m having clipping issues
so that ground where the spare tire used to go is actually a good ground? I was gonna use the spot on the unibody frame next to the exhaust hanger bolts
+iBamHard king The spare tire mount seems to be working for me. I have thought about running a couple more grounds to the same location you're talking about but on the driver side just to see if it makes a difference, a couple extra grounds never hurt. How many batteries will you be running.
AmplifiedCarAudio right now two kenectik 2400s and a Northstar 220. I'm going to attempt to do more grounds upfront tomorrow. then I'm going to try that spot u did as well in the back
+iBamHard king Sweet. I hear those northstar batteries are awesome.
AmplifiedCarAudio they are. I should be shooting a new video of the new amp soon...crazy flex
+iBamHard king Sweet!!
so running a charge wire to your first battery and your last battery in the back want short out or mess up anything
+Bama Rogers no will be fine as long as you do positive to positive
Will a 160 amp alternator charge my starting battery and 2 kinetiks 2000hc?? Thanks in advance
The quick answer is yes. However it’s really going to depend on what you’re running for equipment. A 90 amp alternator or a 20 amp charger would also charge them. If you’re looking to run a “5000” watt Boss amp then you’ll be good. However if you’re looking to run 2 Crescendo 10k’s or something like that you’d need a bigger alt. and more batteries.
AmplifiedCarAudio well the car is a 05 magnum 5.7 wit a 160 amp alternator. I have a rockville db45 for my highs a hifonics brz 2400 for subs. Know for subs i currently have 2 15s cvx by kicker, but just today i ordered some 2 skar audio ddx 15s subs.also have connect a clarion equalizer a kicker crossover and a epicenter. For batteries i have a 2000 hc kinetik battery to start the car and 1800 kinetik as a secondary battery but was planning to put the stock battery back and my 2 kinetiks for the audio so that will be 3 batteries in total.
Hello,I know this video is old,but what sz.fuses did you use on ea.fuse holder!
For the main power wires going from the front to the back I’ve got 300 amp fuses in the front and back of each run
For the main power wires going from the front to the back I’ve got 300 amp fuses in the front and back of each run
Stage 3 wiring?
what size anl fusing for each run?
I used 300 amp fuses front and back
I did everything like u did . I got 1 Walmart battery upfront n 2 xs 750 in the rear (pos to pos) grounded to the chassis n a 0 gauge from my main batt to charge the rears. Also did the big 3 . But when all the bats are in my right blinker goes nuts u can hear the relay firing like a 100 times a sec n my voltage meter on the dash drops. So I ran the system on just my front batt n everything works great. What’s ur take on the situation?? Please help a bro out
That’s odd. Do you have a multimeter to check the voltage when they are all hooked up?
Wet cell and agm dont mix well in parallel
So it's not necessary to run a ground from front to back since the back batteries are grounded somewhere in the rear.
+Casey Perry For most applications that will work. You do want to make sure you have good grounds under the hood and all that stuff too.
Thanks for the vid! But how does the alternator sensing lead fit into all of this? How can the alternator be monitoring only one battery (under hood battery) and yet still charge additional batteries in the trunk which, under heavy load with music, will drain more quickly/at a different rate than the under hood battery? I should clarify: I want two batteries in the trunk and one under the hood, I want 3 separate charging cables at the alternator post, one for each battery. Thank you!
For my set up I have a 250 amp alternator and I’m using 1/0 cable which can carry I believe somewhere around 300 amps. My alternator connects to my front battery and from there runs to the back 3 batteries. Once the batteries are linked to each other you can almost think of them as 1 big battery. Now if you have an alternator that produces more then 300 amps or if you have more then one alternator then you would want multiple runs of 1/0. Now don’t get me wrong if you want to run all of that cable then you can do that it’s just not necessary.
@@AmplifiedCarAudio Thanks a bunch! I was just having a hard time wrapping my head around how the alternator senses all three batteries when only connected to the front battery with the Sensing lead but you're right, it's just one big battery when wired in parallel. My FSM for my car states not to charge the battery in excess of 50 amps. I was wondering what would happen if I ran three charging cables from the alt, one for each battery and the sensing lead only monitoring the front battery? The alt would only charge the rear batteries based on the charge status of the monitored, front battery.
@@CORZER0 can't you just run one power wire from alternator and then through the distribution block in the back of the car connect all the batteries?
There should be a fuse to each amplifier positive wire though. To protect the amp........
i like the front battery cabling but you don't need to parallel more then 2 jumpers because they all run through each other like a chain. i one batter goes bad then it'll damage or little discharge from lead batter. more then two jumpers the bad badder will damage those jumped batters.
What size fuses are you using
I’m using 300 amp fuses
Good shit..pprecaite it..needed this video..
I think you meant parallel because the way you have it wired is not in series
@amplifiedcaraudio ok thanks
+Bama Rogers No problem
So that mean you only use 1 alternator
Yes I only have 1 alternator
Are those 4 fuses 50 amp fuse? Because 4x50= 200amp. Alt is 250a. So 50 amp for car electronics. Did you know you perfectly matched?. You skipped that part.
I need help
Y not have the 2 tons from rite from the alt
+sleeper10s The post on the alternator isn't long enough and there's no room for a bus bar
U need a agm battery
Could have save yourself 10ft of wire had you ran it up the pass side and under . Seeing as you have a battery bank across the rear . It was completely pointless to cross over . All you did was add resistance and lower your amperage capability. Its also a good idea to ground your amps to the shortest possible point. And to the frame not a spare tire bolt that just runs through the body. I personally would have welded a ground bar to either side of the frame and ran my grounds . The way you wired your grounds and amps is why you have such high resistance.
what an absolute MESS
Thank you!!!
so running a charge wire to your first battery and your last battery in the back want short out or mess up anything
Who made the bracket for the alternator
Alternator bracket is factory