The Motor looks like it ran lean which damage the piston . This could be due to incorrect map that was used ( according to me you where running the map for the smaller injectors and boost and installed the bigger charger with the new bigger injectors seeing if would run like that .) Did you do spark plug readings after the engine broke down ? The spark plugs should also give a good indication that the ski ran lean . Remember that the map must be adjusted according to a specific charger and injectors and fuel pressure . But just knowing your actual fuel pressure for starters is important . The stock pistons can handle 350 hp with ease and the stock Conrods as well . With high rpm ARP flywheel bolts is a must , basically anything above 8500 for safety . Stronger cam sprocket bolts are also recommended . If you could ask Jesus Garcia if he has a map available for your specific setup and ask him to make it a little bit richer with a bit less Timing to start off with that would be in his capability . Your setup would make 300 Hp and more easily . You must also confirm your actual fuel pressure . We use a fuel pressure regulator to know all the time what the pressures are . I personally ran a 260 XXX engine TEC 68/140 supercharger on my ski for many hours( stock pistons and rods just added arp flywheel bolts and stronger cam sprocket bolts ) . I eventually decided to go with a 3x 300 super charger and ski was a beast . Thank you for making your video I’m pleased to meet you . Unfortunately I wouldn’t recommend a SBT crate motor at all . I like your ski a lot it’s looking great . 😊 Thank you for watching my videos I’m happy that they where helpful . I would recommend a intake grate the 14/19 may be your next impeller . It is recommended 80 pound injectors but Jesus Garcia will or might have updates that works with that semens deka ecu . If your own block could be bored over size that would be an option . Otherwise source a cheap second hand oem motor and rebuild that . Use a 300hp head gasket too they seal better . I would recommend you speak with Armin at Riva Motorsports Pom Pampano Florida and you can say we recommended you . They could also help a lot for the right oem or Riva parts . I have still a seadoo 2004’ turbo ski built by seadoo centre originally and they used stock rods and pistons and valves where cut to lighten them and they used aluminium retainers believe it or not from rotax racing . The ski did 160km /h ( 100 mph ) and was quite strong . So the correct map for your setup is key. Please keep in touch we will help where we can 👍
Thanks man, I really appreciate the feedback on the issue with my ski. I am paying close attention to what you recommend for me to do. I think that is exactly what happened to the piston, because the ski ran great with lots of arm wrenching power with the X charger setup. It wasn't until I ran the X4 that it blew up. I guess I need to fine tune the air/fuel ratio and fuel map to get it together. I am at a sleight dilemma because I am not sure where to look to find a good working used 1503 motor. There are so many used 4 tec's on the internet. I know older worn out motors are susceptible to breaking timing chains under higher perfirmance setups, so that is a questionable thing. Thank you for warning me about SBT motors. I looked online and saw a few reviews that said beware of SBT because their motor internals could fail. I need to find a good condition used 4 tec hopefull the same year as my ski. What do you think about going with an open loop cooling system? I am fed up with my ski overheating and blowing coolant out of the bottle. I heard that open loop cooling is the way to go for higher power setups. What do you think? is open loop reliable? and does it work well with the 4-tec?
@@video1974 don’t go open loop . It is also problematic, so we use rotax racing complete water thermostat housing or rnd low temp thermostat that we glue and clamp with stainless clamp during installation ( otherwise the housing may pop open ) . I have built 9500 rpm seadoo motors with no issues like that. .
The Motor looks like it ran lean which damage the piston .
This could be due to incorrect map that was used ( according to me you where running the map for the smaller injectors and boost and installed the bigger charger with the new bigger injectors seeing if would run like that .)
Did you do spark plug readings after the engine broke down ? The spark plugs should also give a good indication that the ski ran lean .
Remember that the map must be adjusted according to a specific charger and injectors and fuel pressure .
But just knowing your actual fuel pressure for starters is important .
The stock pistons can handle 350 hp with ease and the stock Conrods as well . With high rpm ARP flywheel bolts is a must , basically anything above 8500 for safety . Stronger cam sprocket bolts are also recommended .
If you could ask Jesus Garcia if he has a map available for your specific setup and ask him to make it a little bit richer with a bit less Timing to start off with that would be in his capability . Your setup would make 300 Hp and more easily .
You must also confirm your actual fuel pressure . We use a fuel pressure regulator to know all the time what the pressures are .
I personally ran a 260 XXX engine TEC 68/140 supercharger on my ski for many hours( stock pistons and rods just added arp flywheel bolts and stronger cam sprocket bolts ) . I eventually decided to go with a 3x 300 super charger and ski was a beast .
Thank you for making your video I’m pleased to meet you .
Unfortunately I wouldn’t recommend a SBT crate motor at all . I like your ski a lot it’s looking great . 😊
Thank you for watching my videos I’m happy that they where helpful .
I would recommend a intake grate the 14/19 may be your next impeller .
It is recommended 80 pound injectors but Jesus Garcia will or might have updates that works with that semens deka ecu .
If your own block could be bored over size that would be an option . Otherwise source a cheap second hand oem motor and rebuild that . Use a 300hp head gasket too they seal better .
I would recommend you speak with Armin at Riva Motorsports Pom Pampano Florida and you can say we recommended you . They could also help a lot for the right oem or Riva parts .
I have still a seadoo 2004’ turbo ski built by seadoo centre originally and they used stock rods and pistons and valves where cut to lighten them and they used aluminium retainers believe it or not from rotax racing . The ski did 160km /h ( 100 mph ) and was quite strong .
So the correct map for your setup is key.
Please keep in touch we will help where we can 👍
Thanks man, I really appreciate the feedback on the issue with my ski. I am paying close attention to what you recommend for me to do. I think that is exactly what happened to the piston, because the ski ran great with lots of arm wrenching power with the X charger setup. It wasn't until I ran the X4 that it blew up. I guess I need to fine tune the air/fuel ratio and fuel map to get it together. I am at a sleight dilemma because I am not sure where to look to find a good working used 1503 motor. There are so many used 4 tec's on the internet. I know older worn out motors are susceptible to breaking timing chains under higher perfirmance setups, so that is a questionable thing. Thank you for warning me about SBT motors. I looked online and saw a few reviews that said beware of SBT because their motor internals could fail. I need to find a good condition used 4 tec hopefull the same year as my ski. What do you think about going with an open loop cooling system? I am fed up with my ski overheating and blowing coolant out of the bottle. I heard that open loop cooling is the way to go for higher power setups. What do you think? is open loop reliable? and does it work well with the 4-tec?
@@video1974 don’t go open loop . It is also problematic, so we use rotax racing complete water thermostat housing or rnd low temp thermostat that we glue and clamp with stainless clamp during installation ( otherwise the housing may pop open ) . I have built 9500 rpm seadoo motors with no issues like that. .
@@RedrockatOkay, I will stick with factory closed loop cooling. Thanks for the heads up on that.