Thanks for the video, brought a second hand 562 at auction a while back, never seemed to have much power in the top end, pulled the carby off after watching your vid, that little filter was not just blocked it was full to the top. When i put it back on it was running so rich i had to do 2 resets before it started to run right.
I usually never comment, but I would like to say that this is one of the best repair videos out there for me. Not skipping any steps and explaining what you are doing :)!
I had exactly the same thing happen to my 550XP Mk2 only 2-3mths. back. Didn’t ask for a warranty work but before I dropped it off for repair. I made sure it wasn’t the plug, checked the fuel tank filter, checked for debris in the tank, air filter and pulled the muffler to check the pot+piston. I’ve only ever run my saws on Aspen but perhaps I’ve not been as careful as maybe when refuelling. Sure I clean the cap before extracting it from the tank and try to ensure no debris or water residue enters the tank when filling. Even brush off my sleeves & gloves before extracting the cap. Apparently the gauze filter had a gel like blockage. Looked good until held up to the light. So they cleaned it & blew it out and all is now well. It was a relatively inexpensive repair and didn’t take long.
@@TheGreasyShopRagthat's an interesting theory. I put a new blue fuel filter on my 2022 545 mark II after experiencing similar issues but not as dramatic. It actually seems worse now. I even took it to the dealer and had it reflashed. That seemed to make it worse yet. I tried running a few tanks of gas through it so it could recalibrate with no positive results. The saw only has 22 hours. If the fuel filters are breaking down then this would make sense. Now I definitely will have to take the carb off and see if this is what's going on.
You know there are TWO reasons this is an excellent video. First because of the "how to" nature pulling a carb and putting it back on type thing. But second might not be intentional, certainly not obvious to some but stands out to me is...Autotunes are just chainsaws. The carbs are just carbs. Point that ALL things that go wrong with a saw like that isn't some ""Autotune" problem They are going to have the SAME type of things go wrong as ANY other saw and the repairs should be approached as you did....like any other saw. Just with a few more wires.
Thanks, and I'm glad you pointed that out. I don't write a script for these videos. I think about what I might say during editing and hopefully remember when it comes time to record. I wanted to make that a point of this video but must have forgot. One thing I don't like about this video is the black stuff in the screen. As pointed out by a commenter, it looks like it could be from a deteriorating fuel line but the saw is so new I didn't feel this was the case. I've seen broken down fuel line in screens and it wasn't this smooth. Dunno for sure.
Thanks for the video. I bought a 550 mk2 a few years ago, hardly used it, seems solid enough but not much torque & leaks bar oil from day one, I hope to give it more of a go over Christmas but so far not that impressed.
The 550 is more of a light weight high speed saw and doesn't have a lot of torque. Are you comparing it to bigger saws or do you think this one actually has a problem?
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm comparing it to both bigger and smaller saws, my first saw is a Husky 440, great because it's so light & able to use it all day, the 550 doesn't seem to have any more torque than the 440 plus it's a bit heavier, so probably not much point keeping it, but like I said I'll give it another go. Because the 440 has a 16" bar I got a 20" with the 550, not so much for bigger wood but for longer reach, the 20" bar came with tiny oil holes which I drilled out to 4mm same as the 440 bar, the oiler seems inconsistent, I took the saw back but was assured all was ok, it leaks oil when not being used making a puddle every day until the tank is empty, as does my Husky 5m electric pole saw, seems to be a new Husky thing, my 395 doesn't leak a drop. At the moment the 550 is on the back burner until after Christmas.
Good video ..think my 462cm is in need of carborater clean...likes to run lean so have to recalibration it alot ..the 500i just eats gas it's incredible how much it eats.so on removals I tend to grab 462 wich has carborater and sounds superior way chainsaw should .with bark box ..the best saw and tool I've ever bought and what i started my buisness with is echo 2511t..cleared out 6 acres and lake sides with it still going strong 💪 5 years later.6 pounds and cuts 70 percent of most tree jobs before needing big saws .modified of course ..stock is just to restrict ed ..all the epa lies ..to control the consumers
@@TheGreasyShopRag it gets used the most the 500i is still new and 661 is is just heavy for me right now have hurt back.had a 562 but it weighed the same as 462 and made no sense to not use72cc versus 59.i did like air filtration better on these stihl saws I will not run those stock filters saws are expensive in tree work. I use green oil air filters from redbeard and Westcoast they last much longer in between cleanings. Just great how they seal with hose clamps.realy like the mechanic videos as I've had to learn anyways being solo operator mostly ..to find help is harder then pulling teeth it's terrible thanks for the tip
So you're saying that all that black crap in the micro screen is stuff that passed through the fuel filter? No possibility that this could be from the inside of the fuel line, it is black? Awesome video, the things that make you go hmmm!
Husqvarna does have good airfilters..stihl all mine newer versions it's 200 bucks aftermarket filters and parts are a must to have them filter and run long-term..oil airfilter s are a must. And aftermarket suspension buffers.and like any saw a better exhaust. Aftermarket muffler..Husqvarna makes it difficult but are now available. Thanks to interweb
Hi great video congratulations, I have a 545 mark I which does not get current to the spark plug, do you have any suggestions, something to check. Thank you
If there ever was a time I wanted close-up video, this was it, especially on carb repair. @5:20 it looked you put a new something in the carb after you cleaned it out and started to re-assemble, or did you actually put same parts back in?
Very nice video with clear instructions on how to work on the carb. Just came in from the shop trying to get my 550 XPG to work again. It just stopped this weekend and the issue seems to be something in the carb. All fuel lines are fine what i can see and the bulb fills up but cant get the fuel to the cylinders. I took the carb apart and noticed the mesh-filter was clogged up, try to clean it as much as i could but still no fuel to the cylinder. Do you have any guess? Thanks and sorry for the "english", from sweden.
If you've been through the carb and feel everything is right then you must consider how air flows through your engine. If the exhaust is plugged then air can't escape...meaning no air can come in. Another scenario might be a bad crank seal or other air leak. If when the piston goes up its pulling air through a leak rather than through the carb you'd have the problem you describe. If it were on my bench I'd perform a pressure/vaccuum test.
The 550 XP M2 I have has an oiling issue, the volume coming out seems good but running down the side of the saw. I saw a video of a gentleman who goes by iron horse who actually used a Dremel to make a deeper channel for the oil to flow through to get to the chain. Have you ever come across this situation or recommendations. Thank you.
I've heard of the mod where the oil hole is opened up but have never done it. Before you try it make sure the mounting surface of the bar is clean and smooth. If the bar doesn't fit flat against a smooth case then oil will drip.
Examine the aluminum surface of the saw in that area. If it has pitting (fairly common) then that provides a channel for the oil to flow through. My fix for this is cleaning the surface really well and applying light coats of Threebond 1184 or similar to the surface while in an horizontal orientation, allow to dry well, apply thin coat of oil to prevent sticking. Check to make sure you haven’t obstructed the oil port with the sealant. The force of attaching the bar nuts will level out the sealant further but checking with a straight edge isn’t a bad idea. This procedure has worked for me at least three times so far.
This is great, thank you so much! I also have a 550 XP that will not run and I am figuring to try the repair that you perform above, micro screen in carb. replacement. My 550 is much older and has a lot more use on it. So if I do go ahead and take all the above apart what else should I replace while I have it apart and is there a kit I should get first for all those parts? Thank you again, so helpful!
The early 550s went through a lot of carb changes to try to get things right. There is most likely a newer version available for your saw but they are not cheap and you need a dealer to program it. You can certainly open it up carefully and inspect the micro screen. If you need a carb kit they might all use the same part number but I'm not certain because this is the first model I remember seeing the spiral wound metal metering diaphragm in. Whatever you do with the carb, when you're done use the blue fuel filter. It is specially designed for auto tune saws.
Great video! I have 550Xp mark 1 and after i start is running, but if i want to accelerate fast when is cold Is doing the same like in video presented.....i accelerate slowly few times and after no problems occur ... she accelerate fast without sluggish. What can be and what i can do in case is need it.Thank youuuuuu!!!!
Let the saw idle and warm up for a minute or two. Its not a good idea to be revving and working a cold engine because different parts heat up (and expand) at different rates. If it works correctly when warm then there is nothing to do but let it warm up.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thank you so much for fast answer! I know is not ok to run cold and usually i run without to accelerate for 30 sec /1 min depending how cold is ...but i was worried a bit when i saw stops when accelerate !....Now i am very happy and i want to wish you all the best !!!!
Thanks for the great video! I have 550XP for a repair, as it wasn't running smoothly. When I took apart the carb, the membranes felt stiff and the gaskets were falling apart so I replaced them. Now after putting the saw back together I can't start it as the fuel won't get to the cylinder. The fuel filter seems fine and I've also changed the primer bulb. The fuel seems to get through the carb but not out of it. Do you got any idea what might be the problem? Could it be the autotune thingy? Thanks for help
Start with the simple stuff. Is the carb physically sealed to the intake boot? is the ring that holds the intake shape in place? are the fuel lines on correctly? The primer should be pulling through that 'S" hose on top. If none of these then open the carb back up for another look.
As usual, great video and it's helpful to see a pro assess and efficiently work on a saw. That saw looked almost new and off the shelf. Changing the subject, do you know why the Husqvarna engineers added the purge/priming bulb to their newer saw lineup? I ain't complaining, sometimes I wish my 372 and 390 had'em.
Two advantages that come to mind are less pulls for initial prime and warm start improvements. If you purge the hot fuel out of the carb and introduce some of the cooler fuel from the tank then vapor lock is less of an issue. Too many people blame the saw instead of following the instructions in the owners manual.
Found your channel . Can you tell me why the 550 mark 1 had hot restart issues or what was changed in mark 2. Even with opening the covers and eliminating the primer we still have problems. I'm talking about the jonsered version.
@@paulborden2544 For hot restart try setting the choke then returning it to run position. No decomp, pull till starts. It will start at fast idle till you hit the trigger. If the saw is really hot and vapor lock is possible, use the primer first to get some of that cooler fuel in tank up into the carb. Everyone that ever complained to me about hot starts and then tried this method has had success.
I got a 550 mark 2 that has a problem whit vacuum in the gas tank in the winter time. Not realy a big problem but kindo enoying. Do you have a quic fix?
Looking inside the tank for water and sediment is part of my normal routine. I doubt I forgot to do that so it might have been edited out. I also install the blue fuel filters on Autotune saws per Husky service bulletin B1210024B-07 but its possible this footage was taken before I was aware of that recomendation.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Aha! A service bulletin! So the microns must be different. I guess I’ll do some more digging to try and find out specs on that one as well as others available so I have a better handle on this type of filter.
It's definitely a design flaw to put a fuel screen in the carburetor that is finer than the fuel filter in the tank! I've heard you make comments that the factory fuel filters are, shall we say, defective. So how is that not the manufacturers fault? Or am I confused, and these customers are, in fact, changing them to aftermarket filters.
They improved on a product that wasn't defective. Honestly, I think the bulk of the problems are fuel quality, not debris the filter cant catch. Scum build up on that screen is the biggest culprit.
@@ItsTrollen I totally missed the fact that this is a 550 video. The early models had carb problems and they updated that carb many times to fix that idle issue. Unfortunatley new carbs are not cheap.
Hi Scott- im a UK cutter & i made the mistake of running E10 (10% ethanol)fuel through my 550mk2 to which it cut out & was difficult to start!! I just managed to finish the day with the fuel but i ditched the E10 for E5 the next day & no further problems!!
Is it essential that you have to put the blue filter in to have more filtering? Is the 572 the same type of filter need very interesting Scott. Thank you very much I am.
Customer failed to mention they accidentally put bar oil in fuel tank , and then a shade tree fixit guy rinsed it out changed the filter with the wrong one, charged customer $75 and saw only ran for a day before the black goo in the fuel lines clogged up carb. Hope you charged him $100 for being dumb and trying to get off on the cheap for his own boo-boo!
I've flushed a lot of bar oil out of fuel tanks. Nobody ever got charged $75 for such a simple task. Most of the videos you'll see here are under a half hour labor before I start editing. I could buy a yaght if I charged a premium for stupidity. Thanks for watching!
😂 warranty..only companies I've seen honor thar are echo and of course fiskars wich a simple picture and no question s asked.from fiskars ..local echo dealer has great warranty. We're as my sthil husky dealer no such thing .especially on top handle saws ..1000 bucks for 201t cm ..3 month warranty one year on big saws .if not for it being best supplier around and 5 minutes away..wouldn't buy anything there.they quit selling the mark 2 t540 gas saw because everyone came back. But stihl warranty is a fairytale. 😂
Thanks for the video, brought a second hand 562 at auction a while back, never seemed to have much power in the top end, pulled the carby off after watching your vid, that little filter was not just blocked it was full to the top. When i put it back on it was running so rich i had to do 2 resets before it started to run right.
Yikes. Good job with that repair!
I usually never comment, but I would like to say that this is one of the best repair videos out there for me. Not skipping any steps and explaining what you are doing :)!
I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thanks for watching!
00:25 “Yeah, they’re not supposed to do that.” 😂😂😂
I had exactly the same thing happen to my 550XP Mk2 only 2-3mths. back. Didn’t ask for a warranty work but before I dropped it off for repair. I made sure it wasn’t the plug, checked the fuel tank filter, checked for debris in the tank, air filter and pulled the muffler to check the pot+piston.
I’ve only ever run my saws on Aspen but perhaps I’ve not been as careful as maybe when refuelling. Sure I clean the cap before extracting it from the tank and try to ensure no debris or water residue enters the tank when filling. Even brush off my sleeves & gloves before extracting the cap.
Apparently the gauze filter had a gel like blockage. Looked good until held up to the light. So they cleaned it & blew it out and all is now well. It was a relatively inexpensive repair and didn’t take long.
I wish I knew exactly what that gel like scum is. Some have suggested its plastic breaking down in the fuel filter.
@@TheGreasyShopRagthat's an interesting theory. I put a new blue fuel filter on my 2022 545 mark II after experiencing similar issues but not as dramatic. It actually seems worse now. I even took it to the dealer and had it reflashed. That seemed to make it worse yet. I tried running a few tanks of gas through it so it could recalibrate with no positive results. The saw only has 22 hours. If the fuel filters are breaking down then this would make sense. Now I definitely will have to take the carb off and see if this is what's going on.
@@jakeblaha9233 I'm curious too. Maybe its a totally different problem that progressively getting worse.
thanks again for saving me time and money. The name of your shop reminds me not to ball up oil soaked rags and leave them in wood chips in full sun.
Thanks for watching!
You know there are TWO reasons this is an excellent video. First because of the "how to" nature pulling a carb and putting it back on type thing. But second might not be intentional, certainly not obvious to some but stands out to me is...Autotunes are just chainsaws. The carbs are just carbs. Point that ALL things that go wrong with a saw like that isn't some ""Autotune" problem They are going to have the SAME type of things go wrong as ANY other saw and the repairs should be approached as you did....like any other saw. Just with a few more wires.
Thanks, and I'm glad you pointed that out. I don't write a script for these videos. I think about what I might say during editing and hopefully remember when it comes time to record. I wanted to make that a point of this video but must have forgot. One thing I don't like about this video is the black stuff in the screen. As pointed out by a commenter, it looks like it could be from a deteriorating fuel line but the saw is so new I didn't feel this was the case. I've seen broken down fuel line in screens and it wasn't this smooth. Dunno for sure.
Really good point! 🙏🔧👍
Thanks for the video. I bought a 550 mk2 a few years ago, hardly used it, seems solid enough but not much torque & leaks bar oil from day one, I hope to give it more of a go over Christmas but so far not that impressed.
The 550 is more of a light weight high speed saw and doesn't have a lot of torque. Are you comparing it to bigger saws or do you think this one actually has a problem?
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm comparing it to both bigger and smaller saws, my first saw is a Husky 440, great because it's so light & able to use it all day, the 550 doesn't seem to have any more torque than the 440 plus it's a bit heavier, so probably not much point keeping it, but like I said I'll give it another go. Because the 440 has a 16" bar I got a 20" with the 550, not so much for bigger wood but for longer reach, the 20" bar came with tiny oil holes which I drilled out to 4mm same as the 440 bar, the oiler seems inconsistent, I took the saw back but was assured all was ok, it leaks oil when not being used making a puddle every day until the tank is empty, as does my Husky 5m electric pole saw, seems to be a new Husky thing, my 395 doesn't leak a drop. At the moment the 550 is on the back burner until after Christmas.
@@alanwatts9232 Ya it sounds like that saw has issues. That 550 should feel strong compared to the 440.
Pretty Good Running Saw 😀
Good video ..think my 462cm is in need of carborater clean...likes to run lean so have to recalibration it alot ..the 500i just eats gas it's incredible how much it eats.so on removals I tend to grab 462 wich has carborater and sounds superior way chainsaw should .with bark box ..the best saw and tool I've ever bought and what i started my buisness with is echo 2511t..cleared out 6 acres and lake sides with it still going strong 💪 5 years later.6 pounds and cuts 70 percent of most tree jobs before needing big saws .modified of course ..stock is just to restrict ed ..all the epa lies ..to control the consumers
If the 462 keeps running lean you might want to pressure test it and make sure you don't have an air leak.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thsnk u ..was thinking of it.about 2 years old mtronic
@@TheGreasyShopRag it gets used the most the 500i is still new and 661 is is just heavy for me right now have hurt back.had a 562 but it weighed the same as 462 and made no sense to not use72cc versus 59.i did like air filtration better on these stihl saws I will not run those stock filters saws are expensive in tree work. I use green oil air filters from redbeard and Westcoast they last much longer in between cleanings. Just great how they seal with hose clamps.realy like the mechanic videos as I've had to learn anyways being solo operator mostly ..to find help is harder then pulling teeth it's terrible thanks for the tip
@@Sethhaun78 Finding good help is a challenge for sure. Good luck.
nice video just got a 550xp-g mk 2 this morning
Its a nice saw and I've heard the heated handles work quite well.
They do :)
Ethanol damage to the fuel hose? It looks very similar to the same problem I've fixed on old outboard motors
You may be right and if so I'll be making another video :-)
Probably motor oil. Still know guys that use car oil for gas and bar. Great video
So you're saying that all that black crap in the micro screen is stuff that passed through the fuel filter? No possibility that this could be from the inside of the fuel line, it is black? Awesome video, the things that make you go hmmm!
You're right, it could be from the fuel hose. I'm saying I don't know for sure.
Maybe ethanol eating at the fuel line and or gaskets
Husqvarna does have good airfilters..stihl all mine newer versions it's 200 bucks aftermarket filters and parts are a must to have them filter and run long-term..oil airfilter s are a must. And aftermarket suspension buffers.and like any saw a better exhaust. Aftermarket muffler..Husqvarna makes it difficult but are now available. Thanks to interweb
The internet has certainly changed everything.
Hi great video congratulations, I have a 545 mark I which does not get current to the spark plug, do you have any suggestions, something to check. Thank you
If there ever was a time I wanted close-up video, this was it, especially on carb repair. @5:20 it looked you put a new something in the carb after you cleaned it out and started to re-assemble, or did you actually put same parts back in?
I replaced the micro screen and nothing else.
Very nice video with clear instructions on how to work on the carb. Just came in from the shop trying to get my 550 XPG to work again. It just stopped this weekend and the issue seems to be something in the carb. All fuel lines are fine what i can see and the bulb fills up but cant get the fuel to the cylinders. I took the carb apart and noticed the mesh-filter was clogged up, try to clean it as much as i could but still no fuel to the cylinder. Do you have any guess? Thanks and sorry for the "english", from sweden.
If you've been through the carb and feel everything is right then you must consider how air flows through your engine. If the exhaust is plugged then air can't escape...meaning no air can come in. Another scenario might be a bad crank seal or other air leak. If when the piston goes up its pulling air through a leak rather than through the carb you'd have the problem you describe. If it were on my bench I'd perform a pressure/vaccuum test.
The 550 XP M2 I have has an oiling issue, the volume coming out seems good but running down the side of the saw. I saw a video of a gentleman who goes by iron horse who actually used a Dremel to make a deeper channel for the oil to flow through to get to the chain. Have you ever come across this situation or recommendations. Thank you.
I've heard of the mod where the oil hole is opened up but have never done it. Before you try it make sure the mounting surface of the bar is clean and smooth. If the bar doesn't fit flat against a smooth case then oil will drip.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thank you, I'll let you you know how it goes.
Examine the aluminum surface of the saw in that area. If it has pitting (fairly common) then that provides a channel for the oil to flow through. My fix for this is cleaning the surface really well and applying light coats of Threebond 1184 or similar to the surface while in an horizontal orientation, allow to dry well, apply thin coat of oil to prevent sticking. Check to make sure you haven’t obstructed the oil port with the sealant. The force of attaching the bar nuts will level out the sealant further but checking with a straight edge isn’t a bad idea. This procedure has worked for me at least three times so far.
This is great, thank you so much! I also have a 550 XP that will not run and I am figuring to try the repair that you perform above, micro screen in carb. replacement. My 550 is much older and has a lot more use on it. So if I do go ahead and take all the above apart what else should I replace while I have it apart and is there a kit I should get first for all those parts? Thank you again, so helpful!
The early 550s went through a lot of carb changes to try to get things right. There is most likely a newer version available for your saw but they are not cheap and you need a dealer to program it. You can certainly open it up carefully and inspect the micro screen. If you need a carb kit they might all use the same part number but I'm not certain because this is the first model I remember seeing the spiral wound metal metering diaphragm in. Whatever you do with the carb, when you're done use the blue fuel filter. It is specially designed for auto tune saws.
Thank you again. Where is your shop? I am betting no where near Middlebury Vermont?@@TheGreasyShopRag
@@chriszeoli1824 Nope. We're in central Wisconsin.
Great video!
I have 550Xp mark 1 and after i start is running, but if i want to accelerate fast when is cold Is doing the same like in video presented.....i accelerate slowly few times and after no problems occur ... she accelerate fast without sluggish. What can be and what i can do in case is need it.Thank youuuuuu!!!!
Let the saw idle and warm up for a minute or two. Its not a good idea to be revving and working a cold engine because different parts heat up (and expand) at different rates. If it works correctly when warm then there is nothing to do but let it warm up.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thank you so much for fast answer! I know is not ok to run cold and usually i run without to accelerate for 30 sec /1 min depending how cold is ...but i was worried a bit when i saw stops when accelerate !....Now i am very happy and i want to wish you all the best !!!!
Who makes that awesome screwdriver at 6:10 ?? Thanks
It was a late night amazon purchase. It seems that unit is no longer available but there are a ton of similar chinese screwdrivers offered.
Thanks for the great video! I have 550XP for a repair, as it wasn't running smoothly. When I took apart the carb, the membranes felt stiff and the gaskets were falling apart so I replaced them. Now after putting the saw back together I can't start it as the fuel won't get to the cylinder. The fuel filter seems fine and I've also changed the primer bulb. The fuel seems to get through the carb but not out of it. Do you got any idea what might be the problem? Could it be the autotune thingy? Thanks for help
Start with the simple stuff. Is the carb physically sealed to the intake boot? is the ring that holds the intake shape in place? are the fuel lines on correctly? The primer should be pulling through that 'S" hose on top. If none of these then open the carb back up for another look.
As usual, great video and it's helpful to see a pro assess and efficiently work on a saw. That saw looked almost new and off the shelf.
Changing the subject, do you know why the Husqvarna engineers added the purge/priming bulb to their newer saw lineup? I ain't complaining, sometimes I wish my 372 and 390 had'em.
Two advantages that come to mind are less pulls for initial prime and warm start improvements. If you purge the hot fuel out of the carb and introduce some of the cooler fuel from the tank then vapor lock is less of an issue. Too many people blame the saw instead of following the instructions in the owners manual.
Thank you man, very helpful !!
Thanks for watching!
Found your channel . Can you tell me why the 550 mark 1 had hot restart issues or what was changed in mark 2. Even with opening the covers and eliminating the primer we still have problems. I'm talking about the jonsered version.
My first question to this complaint is to ask what your hot start procedure is?
@The Greasy Shop Rag no choke and pull. No pop after three then try choke.
Thanks will read later getting late. Just wondered if the mark one had issues that were fixable. What was changed on mark two. Thanks.
@@paulborden2544 For hot restart try setting the choke then returning it to run position. No decomp, pull till starts. It will start at fast idle till you hit the trigger. If the saw is really hot and vapor lock is possible, use the primer first to get some of that cooler fuel in tank up into the carb. Everyone that ever complained to me about hot starts and then tried this method has had success.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thanks.
I got a 550 mark 2 that has a problem whit vacuum in the gas tank in the winter time. Not realy a big problem but kindo enoying. Do you have a quic fix?
Replace the tank vent?
Do you dump the fuel to check tank, sediment,etc? How much labor time would you bill for this type of fix?
Looking inside the tank for water and sediment is part of my normal routine. I doubt I forgot to do that so it might have been edited out. I also install the blue fuel filters on Autotune saws per Husky service bulletin B1210024B-07 but its possible this footage was taken before I was aware of that recomendation.
@@TheGreasyShopRag
Do those filters differ in any significant way from any other filters - weight, micron, volume of element, etc?
@@Rein_Ciarfella I suspect micron. The bulletin wasn't specific but did say they were having problems with small particles getting through.
@@TheGreasyShopRag
Aha! A service bulletin! So the microns must be different. I guess I’ll do some more digging to try and find out specs on that one as well as others available so I have a better handle on this type of filter.
Thanks, got me running again!
Great!
Very good video.
Thanks for watching!
That fuel filter looked good (new?). Any chance that was changed because of the problem the customer was having?
Yes and thats a good point that I should discuss in a future video.
It's definitely a design flaw to put a fuel screen in the carburetor that is finer than the fuel filter in the tank! I've heard you make comments that the factory fuel filters are, shall we say, defective.
So how is that not the manufacturers fault?
Or am I confused, and these customers are, in fact, changing them to aftermarket filters.
They improved on a product that wasn't defective. Honestly, I think the bulk of the problems are fuel quality, not debris the filter cant catch. Scum build up on that screen is the biggest culprit.
What’s it mean if it barely idles and revs up bad ? What do I check
Start with the checks I showed in the video.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I believe it’s the carb it’s getting to much gas and the coil has some issues
@@ItsTrollen I totally missed the fact that this is a 550 video. The early models had carb problems and they updated that carb many times to fix that idle issue. Unfortunatley new carbs are not cheap.
is this dirty fuel storage or ethanol damage
I don't like the use of ethanol but I'm not quick to blame it when I'm not sure. For all I know it might be from a fuel additive.
Hi Scott- im a UK cutter & i made the mistake of running E10 (10% ethanol)fuel through my 550mk2 to which it cut out & was difficult to start!! I just managed to finish the day with the fuel but i ditched the E10 for E5 the next day & no further problems!!
@@marklobbett455 Ditch the E5 and let er rip!
I,ve started running husqvarna alkylate fuel in my saws
Is it essential that you have to put the blue filter in to have more filtering? Is the 572 the same type of filter need very interesting Scott. Thank you very much I am.
Ethanol fuel and or additives they using are chewing the fuel line up and sending it to the screen!
Darn that ethanol.
550 xp , wont start the mechanic sais bad electronics could it be?
Yes it could be but saying "bad electronics" is a broad statement. If thats all they said the what they meant was, "we don't know".
Customer failed to mention they accidentally put bar oil in fuel tank , and then a shade tree fixit guy rinsed it out changed the filter with the wrong one, charged customer $75 and saw only ran for a day before the black goo in the fuel lines clogged up carb. Hope you charged him $100 for being dumb and trying to get off on the cheap for his own boo-boo!
I've flushed a lot of bar oil out of fuel tanks. Nobody ever got charged $75 for such a simple task. Most of the videos you'll see here are under a half hour labor before I start editing. I could buy a yaght if I charged a premium for stupidity. Thanks for watching!
😂 warranty..only companies I've seen honor thar are echo and of course fiskars wich a simple picture and no question s asked.from fiskars ..local echo dealer has great warranty. We're as my sthil husky dealer no such thing .especially on top handle saws ..1000 bucks for 201t cm ..3 month warranty one year on big saws .if not for it being best supplier around and 5 minutes away..wouldn't buy anything there.they quit selling the mark 2 t540 gas saw because everyone came back. But stihl warranty is a fairytale. 😂
Lets hope the T540 mark III has a better track record than the mark II.