In my experience the best order of operations with Seki knives is pull all the screws, but leave all the pins in place. Press on the center of the lockbar (not at the Boye dent, but instead right at its pivot pin) to release the tension on its pivot pin, and push the pin out. Then the lockbar will release and fall free. At this point everything comes apart super easily (i.e. no stuck liners and no chance of damaged bronze washers). When reassembling, reverse the steps above, so everything is back together except for the lockbar and its pivot pin. Get the pin started through the first scale and liner, then push the lockbar in until the pin lines up and can be pressed through the lockbar.
It was such a rookie mistake! It’s been a long time since I’ve taken a seki apart and totally bumblefucked that. I used to have a technique more like what you’re describing. Luckily it’s actually has been insanely smooth and nice since I reassembled.
That's the way I do them too. It's the only way I've found that doesn't put a lot of pressure on the plastic around the spring either with only one side on.
For smaller Torx screws I picked up some Wiha drivers (T4-10) and for my larger sizes I have a Wera (T10-40) set. Not sure why I did that, but Its been > a year now and very happy with both.
I've looked at a the Wihas and Weras a couple of times but I keep backing out. What I have has been working well so far but I've been repairing our kids toys a lot lately so I probably will finally pick up a safety torx set from either company for that
Been waiting for you to do something like this!
In my experience the best order of operations with Seki knives is pull all the screws, but leave all the pins in place. Press on the center of the lockbar (not at the Boye dent, but instead right at its pivot pin) to release the tension on its pivot pin, and push the pin out. Then the lockbar will release and fall free. At this point everything comes apart super easily (i.e. no stuck liners and no chance of damaged bronze washers).
When reassembling, reverse the steps above, so everything is back together except for the lockbar and its pivot pin. Get the pin started through the first scale and liner, then push the lockbar in until the pin lines up and can be pressed through the lockbar.
It was such a rookie mistake! It’s been a long time since I’ve taken a seki apart and totally bumblefucked that. I used to have a technique more like what you’re describing.
Luckily it’s actually has been insanely smooth and nice since I reassembled.
@@EngineersPerspective701 good to hear! If you do irreparably damage a washer, don't hesitate to let me know. I can machine you a new one.
That's the way I do them too. It's the only way I've found that doesn't put a lot of pressure on the plastic around the spring either with only one side on.
For smaller Torx screws I picked up some Wiha drivers (T4-10) and for my larger sizes I have a Wera (T10-40) set. Not sure why I did that, but Its been > a year now and very happy with both.
I've looked at a the Wihas and Weras a couple of times but I keep backing out. What I have has been working well so far but I've been repairing our kids toys a lot lately so I probably will finally pick up a safety torx set from either company for that
Nooooo! Not the washer!!!!!!
No kidding! The action actually been extremely nice since I reassembled it so bullet dodged this time
Hey can you post a link for that lube?
Gunny glide
www.gritomatic.com/collections/knife-care/products/gunny-glide-graphene-lubricant
Been waiting for you to do something like this!
Too bad I bumblefucked right through it 😂