How to: 550i Alternator Gasket Seal Replacement (BAD N62 Leak!)
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- Опубліковано 3 тра 2022
- Today we're replacing the alternator bracket seal/gasket, whatever you want to call it! This is a common leak point on the N62 motor, and being that it's located underneath the alternator, P/S pump, and engine mount, its a pain to replace. Luckily, you can change this seal without touching the subframe if you lift up motor from the side and remove the motor mount that way!
Alternator bracket seal (without oil cooler): 12317507807
Alternator bracket seal (with oil cooler): 12317507808
O-ring to Oil Thermostat: 11421702917
O-ring to Oil Lines: 17222245358
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Thanks for the video！ After having the gasket replaced, I want to add:
1. Some PS pumps have a 6mm hex bolt in the back holding it to the engine block, use an Allen key to remove it. (2008 550i）
2. There are two types(shapes) of alternator bracket gaskets for N62, make sure to order the right one for your engine.
3. Alternative bracket has 3 adjustable nuts on the front mounting points, these nuts are designed to press against the front of the engine block.
Use an 8mm Allen key to turn the nuts so they are tight against the block before insert the bolts to mount the Alternator bracket, otherwise you may risk cracking it.
4. The radiator fan tap on the driver side can be folded, making removal easier.
Your the only technician attempting to do this repair without dropping the subframe, huge thank you as a second year tech at a independent shop . Liked and subscribed
That's because it's not worth it to do without pulling the engine. N62 as several leak points, especially the rear water plate that requires engine out or transmission out.
For that reason we don't bandaid these engines. When they start leaking, pull the engine and *refresh/seal all of it*
That's what the professional shops do. Otherwise you will just be back to square one again with a new leak and a new leak and another new leak, and an irate customer.
Not mentioning the 6mm allen head bolt at the back of the steering pump is a major miss on this video. It will take you hours to figure this out and then decide if and how they need to lower the sub frame assembly just to see it.
I was able to get get mine out with a modified 6mm Allen key wrench; shortened to about 20mm at the working end to fit in the available space. Because of this bolt, reassembly will require the PS pump to be installed before the alternator.
Excellent instructions and straight to the point! Thank you so much.
Great job! looking forward to more N62 contents.
Great job Chris. Didn't know this was so time-consuming. Thanks for sharing. Dutch regards, Nico.
Great video, great description on video. Just love the workmanship!
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Thanks for the video between this video and a couple other it made me feel confident enough to attempt this job . Was able to complete the job successfully. I would say the hardest part was the motor mount bolts and the socket wanting to slip off when trying to torque them down. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and allowing me to absorb it and fix the car I didn’t have the money to fix at a shop.. for just over a hundred bucks by the time I bought the gasket fluids and a few tools. A lot of patients. Thanks again
how did you get the motor mount arm off?
Thanks for the video! Just did this job. Had to remove the power steering pump, extremely tight for space even with the pump removed. Most difficult part is the removal of the engine mount support bracket. Those 4 etorx bolts are a pita.
Great video, super helpful! I was able to rent the tools through Tony’s tool rental online. They saved me a ton of money and were very convenient!
Greetings from Northern Ireland my friend. I have just got the alternator bracket off. Is was quite a nasty oil leak. Thanks so much for your video I would not have been able to do this without your help! Only issue at the moment is that there are obviously two different bracket seals and unfortunately I have got the wrong one but am hoping to get back to it tomorrow and get this 650i back on the road. I have also followed your video on the valve cover seals and they are done; I have to say at this point I found the valve cover seals more difficult, though I do have access to a lift which definitely makes this job a lot easier.
Thanks for watching! I love to hear about people taking on challenges and improving their BMW's! Much appreciation
Great video on how to perform this maintenance. I just completed this on my E66 yesterday and do not envy you performing this on the ground. I have a 2 post lift and this still took me 6 hours but with all the cleaning and prep that should be expected. I did drop the subframe but having a lift it just makes sense. Just recently tirning 50, I cringe working on the ground, my body just hates me afterwards, haha. You video is great and will save someone 2500.00 from the dealer to replace a 7.00 seal. Makes sure you get the Uro Viton upgraded seal so you don't duplicate this work in another 50K.
Very bautiful BMW E60 550i 😍😍😍😍.Very good job.
just got my alternator bracket off over the course of about 2 weeks of slow work thanks to this video. The power steering bolt, oil cooler line bolt, and both top motor mount bracket bolts were the toughest bolts I've ever had to get out. Took some creativity, but it's finally out!
Now to clean and put it all back together...
Glad it helped, thanks for watching! Good luck on re-install :)
I'm doing it now. I have a 2010 550i with active drive. The power steering pump had a bolt at the back going into the block. What a pain. I'm still trying to figure out the motor mount. I can get the bolts out but who the hell knows how I'll ever be able to get them started again during re-assembly. I've rebuilt transmissions before. This is the biggest PITA I've ever worked on.
how did you get to the two back motor mount bolts?
@@elitejuan8979 you can use extensions through holes in the wheel well. It's a nightmare. Even with the alternator and power steering pump out the way they are tough to reach. It is doable. Good luck.
@@elitejuan8979 the back bottom is easy, just reach up from the bottom where the power steering pump is. the back top by the exhaust manifold is very tricky, i got it by reaching down from the top of the motor by the air intake and heater control valve, between the heat shielding and manifold. i used a combo of socket -> swivel -> 3" ext -> ratchet. the swivel was really only because you need like 4" to get the ratchet in the valley of the heat shield and exhaust manifold so you can actually break the bolt free
Nice job!
Just replaced mine, everything is super easy until you get to the last 3 bolts, there is literally no room. I went in through the wheel well with large wobble extensions and finally cracked them off (you may need a longer ratchet as these are on tight!). Absolute nightmare of a job and now I can't remember which bolt goes back where lol. I will use this video to backtrack my steps.
***** very good video!
Glad I found you! New sub here
Id just like to share that i had a significant amount of blue smoke. When i changed the valve cover gaskets, i took a syringe and filled it with Barrs Valve Seal conditioner, and poured it over each of the valve springs and let it sit over night. I did it one more time prior to putting the valve covers back on. I have not had blue smoke since.
same stuff as brake fluid
I cannot imagine how someone would do all that work and not replace every gasket and seal.
Whenever I see you work on the v8, I’m happy to have an i6 with lots of room.
Take it to a garage (regardless if Indy or authorised) to have it done and if you do not tell them to change it as well they usually won't. And if they have no O ring ready at hand then even if you told then and they know it - time is money so hop it back ono and off you go. Waiting for 2 O rings means time while putting it back as is means no time PLUS you'll be back soon for more work to pay more labour. That is one of many reasons I maintain everything I got myself. From car to house. It is way cheaper and of higher quality and even If I manage to damage something by accident then it is still cheaper as to have it done by someone. Yes there are good mechanics out there but I am not in the mood or even willing to A) search for them and B) to pay for something I can do myself.
Great video. Do the provided part numbers also fit 645 / *45engines?
Ill try to reach out this weekend.. E60 project...
Thanks!
Thanks so much Bob 🙏
Great video, Chris! Btw lucky you, seems like there's no bolt on the back of the steering pump! :)
Lmao I'm putting it together now and just saw that hole with no bolt! Gonna throw a bolt in there, someone was definitely in here before me!
Nice video. Can you link the o rings and gasket?
If you get a 1/4 hex ratchet with the 6mm bit it makes removing the 6mm bolt holding the power steering pump so much easier
Hello Great video. Was curious are the steps basically the same for a 2006 N64 650I ? Reading through the comments looks like the power steering pump has an extra blot that needs to be removed. Thanks a bunch!
I recently did this on my E53 X5. It took me around 3-4 days to complete. It’s definitely a PITA but not impossible. For me the hardest part was getting enough space between the front differential and rear alternator housing bolts.
I’m certainly not looking forward replacing the valve stem seals but it’s unavoidable on a high mileage car like mine.
Try that oil additive from liqui-moly, it helped my previous N62 tremendously!
@@TheBimmerBarn I added a can of it when I did the gaskets. I just need to drive the recommended 400-500 miles to see how good it works. so far it seems to be improving but it only smokes if I let it idle for an extended period of time and it clears up after a few seconds after driving off or a couple of revs.
Swap your thermostat out for a 90C one. Bmw runs these things at 100C for emissions purposes only. At 90C your gaskets, seals and plastic parts will last a lot longer. I've got 223k miles on mine, no smoke.
100C just cooks those valve stem seals and makes them brittle and they lose their seal.
Tah much for the video! Just bought a 2010 650 with 60k- with N62 of course, both valve covers very wet - don’t know if alternator bracket is leaking and vac pump too! What order would you suggest doing this work in? What should I look out for before starting - all pointers n suggestions most appreciated!
Do you need to do anything to the motor mount on the other side?
Any oil leaking from that timing cover bolt after completing this job?
What size torx are the two engine mount bolts
Is it the same for the 4.4l turbo engines? How long did it take u
Hay u are a great guy when it comes to the E60 550ci I have learned a lot from them I made the mistake of going anti clock wise with the main belt tensioner and broke the hole for the t60 torx so that's my fault but do you have any tips for removing the alternator I have been told I have to remove the top oil line and the electric fan but you appear to get it out side ways but I was told it is very tight and has to come out electronical connection first as my alternator is goosed Scottish word meaning broken any tips gratefully received basically the same car E63 650ci auto sport I am told same car as your 550ci just a different jacket T.I.A
This is easy a 2 day job and allow more than 12 hours if it's your first time getting in there. You also lose your coolant pulling off the Trans cooler. It took me 12 to get to the oil thermostat and back to good to go. So probably 16 hours to do the whole thing. Next time it'll be 12 now I know what I'm looking at and what to expect.
Do you think this method would work on the E66 (750li). By lifting only the one side up and getting that motor mount out. So I wouldnt have to drop the subframe?
I removed the alternator bracket and a steel round sleeve fell off and I have no idea where it goes. Any help 🙏
Great vid, how did u remove that last e12 bolt from motor mount bracket?
E12 socket > swivel adapter > 3/8 extension > ratchet. Definitely an awkward angle but you can make it work!
Hey i need the parts numbers for the seals on the oil pump hoses
hey any idea of the torque specs for the alternator bracket ??
Could you plz say how to fix PC on bmw 550i 2007
Thanks
My heart hurts because I actual have a 02 BMW 750 Li and I stripped two of the torx bolts.
Timing cover gasket have to change
How much does this job go at the dealership?
How about independent Mechanic estimate cost?
Thanks for the great video, doing this job now on a 2007 650I N62 engine. Question on the power steering pump. Are there any other bolts holding it on? I took the nut and the bolt off but can't get it to budge. It's hard to get a pry bar in there but wanted to ask before I pried it off. Thanks!
Not sure why my car was different, it's a 2007 650I but there was another bolt on the back of the power steering pump that I had to remove.
Having the same issue this morning…did you get it out…really not wanting to pry in it…thanks
@@briansnodgrass4264 See my reply above, I had a bolt further back that wasn't mentioned in the vid
My powering steering pump bracket broke on mine.. can anyone help? Finding the right one.. it’s a 2008 BMW 550i
Looks like some one needs to make a trip to harbor freight and get a parts washer. Awesome diy. I don't see what the big deal is. Dosent look any worse than vanos on an m62
The issue is the bolts on the backside of the alt bracket. There’s no room to get your hand to even start them or line a socket up. You need to take the tire off and pull the fender liners. Then you need to use like two feet of extensions on a ratchet and pray to Jesus you don’t strip them
Link on all the gaskets
Hey bro try not forget to do your coolant transfer pipe my car 150k got a leaks transfer pipe
All German Auto in Escondido sells an expandable pipe you can drop in from the top
Hey Chris my alternator bracket keeps breaking at the top of the bracket. What’s causing it to keep breaking? Any suggestions? 07 650i
There are 3 adjustable nuts on the bracket mounting points, turn them tight against the engine block with an 8mm allen key before inserting the bolts to mount the brocket.
Recently replaced the alternator gasket and valve cover gaskets somehow i ended up with a
E30 bolt laying around. Do you have any idea where it belongs? 05 545i model.
sorry i meant a E10 bolt
Hi
got a 540i with a blue smoke also.
They tell me to put oil adidtiv in thats gonne help it? Whatt can happen after to engine ?
Thanks
I'd recommend the same additive. It's not a fix, but can help prolong the life of your valve seals if they are causing your smoke issues. This is common on N62, but will happen on any high mileage motor. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Can you do this without taking up the engine?
Really good video, I subscribed!👍🏻👌
You have to lift up the engine because you need to remove the engine mount arm, which is on-top of the alternator plate. Hope that helps!
@@TheBimmerBarn Yeah I watched the video like 3 times😂
I Will change it on tuesday on my N62B48👍🏻
@@TheBimmerBarn thank you so much bro, you really helped me with this video. Really good DIY video.
Keep up!
What you think about OIL LEAK ADDITIVES for this problem?
Not sure if it would help here because of the oil pressure it's under. Generally those don't work I think and aren't good for the motor long term from my understanding.
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I have a 08 550i and my power steering pump had a bracket on the back of it yours must was taken off before
Likely the adaptive sway bars. Some cars have them some don’t. Huge pain in the ass if you do have them
yeah mine has adaptive sway bars. There's an extra bracket on the back of the power steering pump. It's not just the front nut and bolt. There's a 6mm hex on the back bracket into the side of the block that holds the steering pump on that needs to come out. What a PITA.
Great the video!, but something struck me as odd after you had removed the oil absorbing underbody paneling cover from the 3:00min Mark. On the E60 with N62 exists a front-end subframe reinforcement plate(pn/ 31116759878) that would need to be removed after the cover to get a better view of the Oil Pan. I don't know if you had skipped that part of removal in the video, but I didn't see it, I hope you have it. The service manual and part itself states that the vehicle should not be driven without this part reinstalled, it is structural. I want to bring this up as it is a safety issue. Cheers!
You're right! I just didn't film a clip of removing mine.
Is it easy to identify an alternator bracket gasket leaking when the car is on the lift? Or does it become a guessing game.
Fairly easy from under the car if the skid plate (if it has one) is removed and the engine cover he showed. The other common points of oil leak on this motor are in other areas.
What may trick you during inspection is that oil will leak down onto the cover and pool up and then leak out at some other point on the ground so the puddle under your car may not be near / or over the point of the actual leak. So it’s important to take the cover off and inspect closer.
Doing mine now. Trust me... you will see oil all over under that side of the engine and subframe.
Hey bro do u think it’s possible to swap the gasket without removing the bracket ? … also do u think the bracket leaks heavier onto the alternator or if the o-rings were bad on that oil inlet would that leak directly onto the alternator if they were bad ? I’m in my 3rd f’ing alternator going out from oil leaking onto it smh
Yeah that oil leak is going to keep destroying alternators, no I don't think you can fix it easier than this video, sadly. But let me know if you prove that wrong! It's a pain in the ass to change this gasket
and I'm only thinking of changing the rings
The bracket on back of the power steering pump wssup with that thing it dont wanna set
Wiggle it 😁
This video saved me a bunch of money, by reminding me to never buy a bmw,and I had an urge to buy 1.thank god i seen this video.
Stay broke then. Audi BMW and Mercedes are the best cars to drive. If you don’t maintain them or get one that was never maintained you are in for a treat. My 2001 Audi S4 has 190k miles. My buddies 550i has 250k on it runs like a champ. Work on it yourself or be rich enough to not care about repair/maintenance costs. Germans cars go higher mileage than every other car for a reason.
My n62 2008 550i has 271,000 miles and runs like a top... however it's getting this done tomorrow....pray for me. Anyone in their right mind would get rid of the car, so I'm doing the right thing and spending my savings on a 4$ gasket to be installed
@@dins.garage when I was a young fool,I was a german car fan new and used,i got older and wiser and chose to spend my time and money differently,German cars look good and fun to drive,well the manual ones are imo,but i would rather enjoy my lexus more,and work on it less.
Great Help. The seal from Hell.
Anyone from Florida that has done this job before?
Hey man I have a question and could really use your advice. I have a 2008 550i with a blown motor, it has been sitting for 2 years and 11 months as if right now. I have 2 options, option 1 is get rid of it and only get paid $500. The second option is to buy an engine and fix it myself. And I’m not sure what to do specially because the car has been sitting for such a long time and not sure what other problems might occur. What would you recommend?
The N62 is a heavy motor, and has so many connections and wires, the swap with take you days. And if you're putting a new motor in, might as well fully service it while it's out, which will take more money and time. Unless you have easy access to the tools and parts needed, I'd just get out of the car for 500 and let someone else deal with it 👍
If you have space part the car and sell it. You will not believe how expensive each individual part is.
Did you sell this car yet?
😊bro cir n62 and i live in a very hot country 5w 30 or 5w40 is better
I like thicker oil, I'd go for the 5w40 given a choice!
I’ve done this job twice, it still leaks both times. Then I went to the highest regard bmw shop within 50 miles and paid them 1,600 to fix it. Still fucking leaks
doing mine right now I see the drivers side timing cover is seeping above the alternator bracket....up above the head gasket. It could be your leak after fixing the alternator bracket seal.
Man, this service looks like a major pain.
This sounds like the move
the oil bmw uses is extremely poisonous.
worst job ever
The valley pan and water pipe on this motor are also a pain in the butt 😅