It's not difficult to add more solar later but a good rule is 2x as much solar as batteries, i.e. 200 watts of solar per 100 amp hours of batteries (useable). Roof mounted is great for setup and take down time, but means you'll always have to park in the sun. I recommend flexible panels (they're light and easy to store) and a 50 foot cable.
I had 5000 watts and all the bells and whistles and dumped it all. I now have 300 watts and it's more than enough. I run USB everything and get away with cheap truck batteries. 2 to be exact. It works all year round and I'm in Canada
Same here. Living in a northern area, with not that much sun, a 300 watt panel with a 100 A/h 12V battery is enough to be confortable. My fridge runs on LPG, my heating system, and water instant Heather too. All my lighting is LED. The less electricity, the less troubles...
Hope you don’t mind me asking- do you run a diesel heater with that? I’m curious, because I’d like to work online from my van in the U.K. through the winter. Everyone is saying I won’t have enough battery to keep the heater running.
Atop my minivan are two 100 watt solar panels keeping my EcoFlow Delta 2 (1000Wh capacity) topped up. I travel up and down mostly sunny California. With affordable DC-DC chargers solar is enhanced.
Please make a video with everything else you need for solar, like amps, spitters or connect a battery to your alternator cause all I know is connect a panel to a power jack
Your 2 to 1 solar to battery ratio just made it so much easier to understand. Thanks Bob. I think I would enjoy sitting around a fire chewing the fat with you.
I have two one hundred watt panels and two two hundred watt power stations, I can definitely fill a third one, and I should have a third. I😂grind coffee on alternating current, everything else is USB powered and very efficient.
I had 360watts of solar on roof and 100ah LFP battery for 3 yrs - had to be careful and plan out power usage - then upgrades to 1200 watts solar and 300AH LFP - Larger system makes life Easies - less planing -
This is good advise from Bob. I would add, that if you are east of the Mississippi you should plan to have enough battery to last 3 days and as much solar as you can carry. You may need to supplement your solar with a Generator in the winter, but this has worked for me. My Ambulance has 7.5 Kw h of battery and 1200 Watts of Solar, but I'm a heavy electrical user, 43" TV, College size Frig on AC and a PC running all the time. You can pre-plan all you want, but real world usage is very dependent on what appliances you use and how you use them.
I have a 200-watt solar panel on the roof of my SUV, connected to my Jackery Explorer 1000 (constantly), and I have a Bluetti 180P that I take into coffee shops, church, or AA meetings when the battery gets low because it only takes one hour to fully charge. I got my 200-watt Renogy solar panel for $229.00, and the Bluetti was $599.00 during Amazon Prime days. I already had the Jackery. Previously, I had the Harbor Freight 100-watt solar panel connected to the Jackery, and as good as it actually was, it was not enough to keep the Jackery fully powered. I have a fridge and fan constantly going and I make at least 2 pots of coffee every day and I cook with a rice cooker. But not daily because I love peanut butter sandwiches 😋 Thanks Bob 🎉
I'm form the UK & i would upgrade the solar panel on the roof to 300w 2x150w solar panel if i had an RV/campervan here, also i would like yourself have 2x Jackeries or Bluetti etc with one running lights maybe 2 light bulbs ie Standing camp lamps (Not from the RV itself as it saves the battery) and use the kettle & rice cooker/airfryer....other one to use for a small heater for a few hours (Not aircon), a 24"tv to watch for maybe 3hrs & to charge my phone/laptop just the once per day....those 2x portable power stations i would have a 150w solar panel in the window of my RV/campervan during the day,nite time i'd put them away. Does that make sense? I''ve been watching a lot ot videos & that would be me one day on a weekend trip or a 1 week trip.
Thanks for this video, Bob. I'm getting ready to convert an ambulance for myself and I've never done a solar system setup before. I tend to lean toward redundancy and overkill, so I have been questioning my own judgment. 😂 I really appreciate all of your great information.
I first put two Arco SM55 solar panels on my full-time RV around 1991. Over 30 years later, I have about 15 times the capacity of that first set. Just about anyone can learn how independent alternative-energy systems work and how to manage them, but there's nothing like experience. Just don't give up reading and watching the top sources like DIY Solar Power Forum and working with whatever you can put together. It is far easier and cheaper to do now than it was back in the day.
If you can put in a dual mppt/alternator charge controller it can really be a game changer when running minimal solar especially at night and cloudy days.
Since you run out of space before you can deal with the very worst weather anyway, if you are full time, you need a backup - either a generator or charging while driving or plug in somewhere (if you can afford that). So the equation really becomes how often do you use back-up charging vs how much solar and batteries. My sorta just feeling is that sizing solar and batteries for average days or something like that in the winter is probably good. I'd still fill the roof up though if you aren't using the space. Solar panels have become so affordable.
Bob: I'm so greatful I was a solar hobbiest, before I had to live in a van. All ready had all I needed, to (DIY) built it out. That's good advice for new folks, Thanks, and... 👍 Rock on 🙂.
Bob, we had 350 watts of solar on top and 4 lead acid batteries for 7 years! Same batteries! Finally pulled the trigger and went lithium (4-100amp) and upgraded solar to 1150 on top with a portable 400 watt panel Dec 2023. (1550 total now) We are LOVING life now with all this power and extra battery storage for us! Love your vids!
Can your setup power your RV air conditioner and occasional 120V appliances? I'm contemplating getting a gas generator to power my AC unit and 120V appliances.
Thanks again Bob. I have purchased a 40 YO 22' Class A. After shopping for a van in my area, Pierce Co WA, this motorhome became available in my area for 2K. I am going to strip out much of the old infrastructure and replace most of the wiring. This will take time but will hopefully allow me to get free by next summer. I'm on SS and predict that I will be investing in this rig for several years. Hope to meet you at this years RTR.
I converted my hiace van into a campervan and use it for camping/glamping. I put a 200AH battery in it, with two 160W solar panels on the roof. They generate a bit over 20A during the middle of a sunny day, so they take about 10 hours of midday sun to fully charge the battery, but the DC-DC charger can also pull 40A from the alternator when driving. This system is enough to power the ceiling fan all day and night, recharge all electronics, use a toaster for breakfast, run a 12v TV and 240V gaming console for hours a day, a 12v fridge, etc. but not enough to sustain if I use an induction cooker for dinner, in which case it is fine for a weekend, but not permanent living if using the induction cooker. Not really a big deal because gas stoves and gas is so cheap, it was more to be able to cook in the van without gassing myself with CO and benzene. I spent about AU$1800 (US$1200) for the battery, solar, dc-dc charger and 3k inverter. I think a bit more solar (like 400W instead of 320W) would be great, but there isn't really the space on the roof anyway.
I intend to camp not live in my minivan. Don't think I need solar. Do want a battery/power bank that can handle say... 3 days to a week of a 12v frig and my phone and maybe a USB fan and light. Guess I need to find the video about batteries not solar.
I've learned after 2 years on the road and constant upgrades, if you want to work out of your van full time laptop use with an additional monitor and a fridge...you'll need (1) 100 ah lithium, 30amp solar charger, 400 watts of rigid panels. Even with that, u may still need a generator for those cloudy weeks.
This is a very important video..ty for sharing this with all of us. This explains really good what people need to know before they spend their money on..ty very much..hello from Hillsdale Michigan
bob good video and yes too many people underestimate the weather and i deformably agree with you about having more battery storage worst case you can always start your vehicle or go for a drive you deformably cant rely on the weather
Am on a road trip up the west coast from Arizona to Washington, in a little Ford Transit Connect cargo van. Have a Bluetti AC 180 battery, charges off the car while I drive... have to remember to unplug it when I sleep, or the car battery is dead in the morning! But it is all I need, no solar. Easy to keep my phone, iPad, and laptop charged. Also to run a small 120V heater for a few minutes before bed. Having a great trip, but commited a Federal Crime in Yosemite, sleeping last night in a parking space outside the Eatery Cafe. They want you to pay $175 to stay in their campground... or $350 at the Lodge... or $800 at the Ahwanee Hotel. But Yosemite Valley is drop-dead beautiful. Saw lots of vans and Class Cs, plus a few larger Class As. The Bluetti changes your mindset. In mid-afternoon, I keep thinking 'where will I sleep tonight where I can plug in?' But you don't need to... the extension cord I brought goes unused. P.S. -- glad I brought a MicroStart jumpstarter. Forgot to unplug the Bluetti twice at night!
I have 600watts on the roof and I can put out 400watts folding panels on the ground, using 2 solar chargers. I can also charge from the alternator using 40A DC/DC but rarely need to. 400AH battery.
The cheapest entry level use is having a small enough panel to be portable fit in your windshield. One or two 12 volt of 50 watts or some of the new 100 watts are pretty small. Then you can use your car battery as an anchor when you are parked and just charge your lithium devices and backup batteries off the solar rigged to that. Only during daylight! Don't run down you starter battery! This also has the advantage of keeping your lead acid starter battery conditioned and you can always charge it up with a solar panel with clamps and a cheap pwm charge controller. You may need one of those new high volt usb c charging outlets they make for 12 volt to charge devices. You can run a 12 volt panel direct to one of those high volt usb C charging outlet designed for 12 volt, by passing the anchoring car lead acid, and charge directly through that, like to a car jumper battery that has two way usb c outlets (important feature to look for). Might take some rigging. I wouldn't charge direct to Apple products from that rig, however, just to the starter battery pack or other battery packs. The usb c port becomes part of the charge controller, so you don't need the pwm. It is also dangerous to jump to or from running modern vehicles these day with all their computers and fragile electronics, so a jumper pack is kind of a necessity these days and can also be used as a device and phone back up battery
What about charge controller size? I have 600 watts of folding solar panels and a 60 watt charge controller. I had a 30 watt controller with 300 watts of solar but when I added the second panel I saw a video saying that I should have a minimum of 60 watts in the controller. I hope that's correct because I hate to think that I spent money that I didn't have too. Great videos Bob. Hope to see you at the 2025 RTR. Safe travels to all!
600 watts ÷ 12volts = 50 amps. Go with at least a 60 amp charge controller or two 30 amp controllers. I have 800 watts ÷ 12volts = 66.67 amps running through four Renogy 30 amp charge controllers on my Promaster hightop.
in the next 12-24 months you will have a much better option than solar and batteries. size it for the weather? you need as much as you can do if you are doing south / summer because AC needs a lot of juice
The thing I learned early on was start with what you can afford and fit, but install with expandability in mind. I went with a deluxe 200w system from Renogy (lower learning curve), but I did have to start with a gel hybrid battery. Eventually I could afford replacing that with a 200ah LiFePo battery. That dance between how much solar generation vs battery can be challenging, especially when whether sunlight consistency is challenging. So, as you suggested, we're now on a 400w and 200ah lithium system. We have a 6x10 cargo trailer so that is the max 100w panels we can fit. If we needed to upgrade, we'd have to go with larger panels. Your explanation of the key factors was spot on. The rest of is it getting smart about when you use power--use higher consumption during optimal sun so that your panels are able to keep your battery charged. At night you know your fridge is still going to be running, and you'll be running lights. If your nights are still warm (we live in SW Texas, so nights are still hot here even in mid-October), then you'll be running your fan as well. So far, our 400w/200ah system is handling everything great. The only mistake we made was getting an underpowered Inverter. At only 1000w, it is NOT enough to handle even a 750w microwave because just to startup/cycle uses MORE than 1000w. Also, other minimal use appliances like hairdryers are hard to find below 1000w (we did find one). Since we're in a converted cargo trailer, it's not practical (though not impossible) to have our battery alternately charge from our tow vehicle. We have a small 1000w inverter generator that we can supplement either shore power or recharge our batter as needed. Bottom line: Your recommendations are solid. Buy what you can afford, but consider how you can expand your system. Upgrade as you go--as you use your system you'll discover what you can do without and what you can't.
Would also add that backup charging methods are well worth it. A dc to dc charger is great investment that produces power when the vehicle is running. I also have a Smart battery charger. For longer trips especially in the winter I add my small inverter generator.
I have 4 Battle Born 100ah batteries and I often charge them with my portable 200 solar panel... I only use it to power my 12volt refrigerator... How much you need is only dependent on how much you use...
I'm form the UK & i would upgrade my RV/camper van roof solar panel on the roof to 300w 2x150w, just for the fridge itself & heated shower x3 weekly. I'd def get 2x 100A batteries & those ECO-WORTHY cost £220 each (100A) Plus would have 2x Jackeries or Bluetti etc with one running lights maybe 2 light bulbs ie Standing camp lamps (Not from the RV itself as it saves the battery) and use the kettle 2x a day & rice cooker/airfryer 1x a day & a spare small heater for a good few hours. (Not aircon) Other powerstation be for a 24"tv to watch for maybe 4hrs & to charge my phone/laptop just the once per day....those 2x portable power stations i would have a 150w solar panel in the window of my RV/campervan during the day,nite time i'd put them away of course. Does that make sense? I''ve been watching a lot ot videos & that would be me one day if i wanted to but an RV.
I wish these videos would include the cost for having the solar mounted on the roof and all the connections needed. I have power stations and solar panels to charge them but they are plug-and-go, electrical dummy-proof but if I decide to go with rooftop, I need to budget for a lot more than just the panels and batteries. For those of us who aren't DIYers, it would be nice to have an idea of what having something like that installed and hooked up might be.
Cost me $2000 to have two 400 watt panels mounted on the roof of my 5x8 trailer. That included the panels, installation, wiring and internal lighting. I bought my Bluetti AC200Max separately
1620W on top my standard length Chevy Express 2500, 400Ah 24V LFP. Powers my 9000 BTU 22 seer mini split heat pump and Iceco 24V 75Q refrigerator/freezer just fine.
So many teardrop manufacturers offer a battery with a 100w panel and think that will power a fridge and other accessories. It’s why l chose to build my own system
I HAVE to remain near my docs in Eugene Or this winter. LOTS of rain/clouds. QUESTION: IYO...How well can solar possibly work in these conditions! LUCRETIA ❤
The energy audit as you mentioned is great. But, there is so many factors when it comes to solar that come in play. Hardware does matter as well. I had cheap china MPPT controllers and heck even PWM when I got started. Using Lead acid gulf cart 6v batts and later AGM and well it all pretty much sucked. I never had the power and batts always going bad. I have since moved up to LifePo4 batts and Victron Charge controllers. Night and day. I have the same panels making much more power and batts off the victron controllers are topped faster and allow much deeper discharge. I have one setup 50watt panel 30amp EcoWorthy batt and victron MPPT controller on it. And that runs USB fan all 24hrs a day. USB lights and a 5 port usb fast charger off it. This one little setup ROCKS for what it is now. I have much bigger setups just wanted to say what right equipment really does as well.
I had 30-100 watts for years with a Walmart battery and inverter. For phones and even an efficient fridge, 100 watts and harbor freight will do you south of Canadia. Ideally I'd go with 200 watts and a Costco deep cycle unless you're cooking with electric. Something important mentioned here was charge your battery from the alternator. Once I did this the solar became much less important. Y'all's be FREE!
Get what you need for the average days, but rather than spending a lot on extra batteries and solar panels to cover the bad days, keep a small gas or propane generator.
On this theme solar or wind or generator it's all power. The battery is the most portable quiet energy. What is the rule of thumb for 100 watts means how big of a battery do I need or 250 watts or 400 watts equal what size of battery or batteries.
Not all of them he's not but everyone is different. I'm in Canada and I find I have too much power for what I need. Been in this for 20 years. I have 300 watts on the roof and 200 amp/hrs of battery. Going back to a 1200 watt generator for back up. The generator will probably collect dust
well money can limit anything .. a single large panel, small inverter and deep cycle batt can keep your personal electronics going and can emergency jump your vehical, run low power led lighting etc ... if you want 'real' capacity though that can run fridges, tvs and pumps overnight, run a microwave heat water etc and basically be used in place of a generator or shore power, then the more the better - think ~10 large panels, a couple of 3000w+ pure sine inverters for redundancy if one goes out, and~8+ large hi-cap batts .. if you got money and space to set up a large system, its really cool, if not, put money towards a larger quiet generator, much more cost effective .. but again, a smaller solar system wont do much .. a panel or two, blah blah wont run much of anything that needs real power - led lighting, charge personal electronics, maybe run an rv pump sparingly
$2 per watt is not a bargain. Some less than $1 a watt. 1/2 kilowatt is the minimum requirement for all applications, including at least 300@ hr batteries.
Hi. looking into a van in the UK, 60A dc to Dc solar on roof and a 300ah 12v battery bank. That was until I found the 200ah b12V battery and fell in love. A little bigger but twice the capacity. Solar - Will be fitting as much as I can House panels sized to fit on the roof. When its flat or not sunny, I live in the UK! charge at an EV post or Engine by DC to DC or 240V Generator using the DC to DC and a server rack power supply and 30A Victron charger. Take care M..
Hi! Thank you for all the solar information! Has helped me immensely but i have a different question for you! After all this time do you still recommend joolca camping hot water heater? I'm one step into going off grid with my family of 5 but with 2 tenage girls a showr is a must for us! If not is there another hot water system you would recommend? Thanks!
That's probably a bit too much solar. The general rule is twice the Watts of solar as the Amp Hours of the batteries. You could go a little higher, like 500W for 200Ah but 600W would probably be a waste. Either that or get 300Ah of batteries. You'd probably be fine with 200Ah and 400W if you aren't using air conditioning for cooling (use a 12V electric throw for heat) or an Induction stovetop. If using an Induction stovetop I'd go the 600W 300Ah option, and if using air conditioning you'd need like at least 1000W and 500Ah.
I connected all my gadgets, turned on at the same time and saw the Wattmeter at home (with everything at home powered off) ... that yield 500w/h and so I went for 5 days of that :D hahaha
I don’t want to have to carry and drag huge portable solar panels around. I have a 5x8 off road trailer and bought a Bluetti AC200Max with 800 watt panels mounted permanently on the trailer’s roof. It works great and l can power my ICECO fridge, microwave, coffee maker, Zero Breeze AC, lights etc. It cost almost $4000 total (including installation and wiring, lighting, etc) but it makes camping so much more enjoyable and convenient, especially since l boondock all the time. My camping is done from April-October in the desert or Rocky Mountains.
Excellent information! Can you talk a bit more about matching panels to batteries? Wat sizes do panels come in? Is there a point where bigger isn't better?
Do you think an Anker SOLIX X1 could be a viable option if have the space in rig? Any input from anyone would be appreciated as I know this is for home application, but I just think that this option could be a game changer when it comes to having enough battery and capacity to pretty much run anything for days. Also, what would be needed outside of space as far as wiring and any other needs to make this efficient. Thanks in advance for any advice!
I've got an extended transit. About 6ftx11ft of roof space. Only fits 800w of panels. Plan on a bluetti 180P & 180T ( 2 removable batteries) for power😅 1800w, 1152 amp hrs, each. With 2, 100ah batteries as back up. Probably a lot more power than what I'll need. But, on a cloudy day, I'll only get 160w from the panels. And it's going to take 6 to 8 months to assemble all the equipment, because it's expensive.
I'm so glad my power needs are very low I'm on a tight budget because of my fixed income but I'm looking at a 100 watt solar panel kit with everything including the charger yes from harbor freight and one 200 amp hour lithium battery plus I'm upgrading the battery terminals and getting battery isolator so when I'm driving I could charge and let the solar panel take over when I'm parked I don't have a refrigerator or a laptop small 6 volt oscillating 12-volt fan couple LED lights some pretty lucky on saving power there but future plans I'm looking at at 200 to 300 w and upgrade to with a couple of 200 amp hour batteries
I would argue the opposite of having too much battery. As Long as your solar charge controller can handle what you are putting into it, it's better to have too much solar. Because on inclement/overcast days your solar panels can only produce so much. The excess power will admittedly be wasted on a normal sunny day, BUT when you over panel your system you will get more power in on those days where you really need it. If your two 300 watt panels (that produce about 550W combined on a good sunny day) might barely eek out 200W total on a crappy day. But if you over panel and have three 300 panels then (due to your charge controllers amperage limit) on a "normal" sunny day you will likely still only get about 550-575W. BUT those three panels on an overcast day might make about 300W total. Those bad weather days really make the difference and getting as many watts in on those inclement days are always more important than the full sun days.
You can buy a cheap solar panel and cheap pwm charge controller with built in usb ports and badda bing you don't need a battery. You can even get a solar usb power pack that is roughly the size of a smart phone. That's as cheap and compact as it gets.
I’d love to do 1000watts on my roof. But unless I put them on some sort of truss system to lift them over the top of the vents and sunroof bubble. Wife says that’s not gonna happen so I think about 800 will be my absolute top. That should keep my 2 280ah LiPo4 batteries charged.
It's not difficult to add more solar later but a good rule is 2x as much solar as batteries, i.e. 200 watts of solar per 100 amp hours of batteries (useable). Roof mounted is great for setup and take down time, but means you'll always have to park in the sun. I recommend flexible panels (they're light and easy to store) and a 50 foot cable.
I had 5000 watts and all the bells and whistles and dumped it all. I now have 300 watts and it's more than enough. I run USB everything and get away with cheap truck batteries. 2 to be exact. It works all year round and I'm in Canada
Same here. Living in a northern area, with not that much sun, a 300 watt panel with a 100 A/h 12V battery is enough to be confortable. My fridge runs on LPG, my heating system, and water instant Heather too. All my lighting is LED. The less electricity, the less troubles...
@xcx237 300watt invertor or solar panel. Im guessing 300watt invertor
Hope you don’t mind me asking- do you run a diesel heater with that? I’m curious, because I’d like to work online from my van in the U.K. through the winter. Everyone is saying I won’t have enough battery to keep the heater running.
Bob, your videos are always so down to earth and common sense. Thank you for all the time and effort that you take to make these videos for us. ❤️
This is Bob's best solar presentation yet.
Excellent advice. There is no many confusing factors, but you boiled it down to good recommendations.
Atop my minivan are two 100 watt solar panels keeping my EcoFlow Delta 2 (1000Wh capacity) topped up. I travel up and down mostly sunny California. With affordable DC-DC chargers solar is enhanced.
Bob, I love seeing Cody in the background. Makes me happy.
I was going to say the same thing. Cody seems to take the same walk behind Bob during the presentations. Very cute and it lets us know he is OK.
Please make a video with everything else you need for solar, like amps, spitters or connect a battery to your alternator cause all I know is connect a panel to a power jack
Yes please. I was hoping for a more inclusive cost for the two 100 w panels and the one battery for example.
Please keep giving us all of this information Bob. Thank you for what you do.
Your 2 to 1 solar to battery ratio just made it so much easier to understand.
Thanks Bob. I think I would enjoy sitting around a fire chewing the fat with you.
I have two one hundred watt panels and two two hundred watt power stations, I can definitely fill a third one, and I should have a third. I😂grind coffee on alternating current, everything else is USB powered and very efficient.
I had 360watts of solar on roof and 100ah LFP battery for 3 yrs - had to be careful and plan out power usage -
then upgrades to 1200 watts solar and 300AH LFP -
Larger system makes life Easies - less planing -
Bob I really enjoys your channel and I'm not even a nomad or own an RV but I learn so much here.
That's Bob, I really needed this video 😅
i wish he'd show us how to fit it too.
This is good advise from Bob. I would add, that if you are east of the Mississippi you should plan to have enough battery to last 3 days and as much solar as you can carry. You may need to supplement your solar with a Generator in the winter, but this has worked for me. My Ambulance has 7.5 Kw h of battery and 1200 Watts of Solar, but I'm a heavy electrical user, 43" TV, College size Frig on AC and a PC running all the time. You can pre-plan all you want, but real world usage is very dependent on what appliances you use and how you use them.
Great Information!! Please make video on portable vs mounted solar panels, Pros>Cons,
I have a 200-watt solar panel on the roof of my SUV, connected to my Jackery Explorer 1000 (constantly), and I have a Bluetti 180P that I take into coffee shops, church, or AA meetings when the battery gets low because it only takes one hour to fully charge. I got my 200-watt Renogy solar panel for $229.00, and the Bluetti was $599.00 during Amazon Prime days. I already had the Jackery. Previously, I had the Harbor Freight 100-watt solar panel connected to the Jackery, and as good as it actually was, it was not enough to keep the Jackery fully powered. I have a fridge and fan constantly going and I make at least 2 pots of coffee every day and I cook with a rice cooker. But not daily because I love peanut butter sandwiches 😋 Thanks Bob 🎉
Thanks for the specifics!
Charging your stuff in a AA meeting.
Two pots of coffee daily.
Bill W is smiling in heaven.
🥪🏆🤣
Me too I'll be showing up to na and aa w my bluetti! 😂❤
I'm form the UK & i would upgrade the solar panel on the roof to 300w 2x150w solar panel if i had an RV/campervan here, also i would like yourself have 2x Jackeries or Bluetti etc with one running lights maybe 2 light bulbs ie Standing camp lamps (Not from the RV itself as it saves the battery) and use the kettle & rice cooker/airfryer....other one to use for a small heater for a few hours (Not aircon), a 24"tv to watch for maybe 3hrs & to charge my phone/laptop just the once per day....those 2x portable power stations i would have a 150w solar panel in the window of my RV/campervan during the day,nite time i'd put them away. Does that make sense? I''ve been watching a lot ot videos & that would be me one day on a weekend trip or a 1 week trip.
I’m just beginning to look into solar and this was very helpful , thank you !
Thanks for this video, Bob. I'm getting ready to convert an ambulance for myself and I've never done a solar system setup before. I tend to lean toward redundancy and overkill, so I have been questioning my own judgment. 😂 I really appreciate all of your great information.
As always, Bob, thank you so much for all your information. It really helps!!!
I first put two Arco SM55 solar panels on my full-time RV around 1991. Over 30 years later, I have about 15 times the capacity of that first set. Just about anyone can learn how independent alternative-energy systems work and how to manage them, but there's nothing like experience. Just don't give up reading and watching the top sources like DIY Solar Power Forum and working with whatever you can put together. It is far easier and cheaper to do now than it was back in the day.
"Buy all u can afford"❤
If you can put in a dual mppt/alternator charge controller it can really be a game changer when running minimal solar especially at night and cloudy days.
Hey Bob! Always a thumbs up for your videos!!
very good info presented in a simple way - thank you
Since you run out of space before you can deal with the very worst weather anyway, if you are full time, you need a backup - either a generator or charging while driving or plug in somewhere (if you can afford that). So the equation really becomes how often do you use back-up charging vs how much solar and batteries. My sorta just feeling is that sizing solar and batteries for average days or something like that in the winter is probably good. I'd still fill the roof up though if you aren't using the space. Solar panels have become so affordable.
Thank you Bob for always sharing useful information. 💫 It's a fact - The more you know - The more you function!💯
We 💖 Bob
Bob: I'm so greatful I was a solar hobbiest, before I had to live in a van. All ready had all I needed, to (DIY) built it out.
That's good advice for new folks, Thanks, and...
👍 Rock on 🙂.
Very informative. Thanks!
Good solid information Bob. Thank you
Really appreciated this! Yes, solar can be overwhelming. But you make it look like something manageable to learn, and figure out for my needs. Thanks!
❤ love this channel
Bob, we had 350 watts of solar on top and 4 lead acid batteries for 7 years! Same batteries! Finally pulled the trigger and went lithium (4-100amp) and upgraded solar to 1150 on top with a portable 400 watt panel Dec 2023. (1550 total now) We are LOVING life now with all this power and extra battery storage for us! Love your vids!
Can your setup power your RV air conditioner and occasional 120V appliances?
I'm contemplating getting a gas generator to power my AC unit and 120V appliances.
Thanks again Bob. I have purchased a 40 YO 22' Class A. After shopping for a van in my area, Pierce Co WA, this motorhome became available in my area for 2K. I am going to strip out much of the old infrastructure and replace most of the wiring. This will take time but will hopefully allow me to get free by next summer. I'm on SS and predict that I will be investing in this rig for several years. Hope to meet you at this years RTR.
I was a little concerned when Cody disappeared behind a shrub around the 8 minute mark, then I remembered the video is edited so he's just fine🤗
Awesome as Always, Brother Bob!!!
Perfect, thank you!
I converted my hiace van into a campervan and use it for camping/glamping. I put a 200AH battery in it, with two 160W solar panels on the roof. They generate a bit over 20A during the middle of a sunny day, so they take about 10 hours of midday sun to fully charge the battery, but the DC-DC charger can also pull 40A from the alternator when driving.
This system is enough to power the ceiling fan all day and night, recharge all electronics, use a toaster for breakfast, run a 12v TV and 240V gaming console for hours a day, a 12v fridge, etc. but not enough to sustain if I use an induction cooker for dinner, in which case it is fine for a weekend, but not permanent living if using the induction cooker. Not really a big deal because gas stoves and gas is so cheap, it was more to be able to cook in the van without gassing myself with CO and benzene.
I spent about AU$1800 (US$1200) for the battery, solar, dc-dc charger and 3k inverter. I think a bit more solar (like 400W instead of 320W) would be great, but there isn't really the space on the roof anyway.
I intend to camp not live in my minivan. Don't think I need solar. Do want a battery/power bank that can handle say... 3 days to a week of a 12v frig and my phone and maybe a USB fan and light. Guess I need to find the video about batteries not solar.
Good info as always, thanks. I am building a system in my van with one of the 460 amp hour batteries and 585 in solar.
I've learned after 2 years on the road and constant upgrades, if you want to work out of your van full time laptop use with an additional monitor and a fridge...you'll need (1) 100 ah lithium, 30amp solar charger, 400 watts of rigid panels. Even with that, u may still need a generator for those cloudy weeks.
This is a very important video..ty for sharing this with all of us. This explains really good what people need to know before they spend their money on..ty very much..hello from Hillsdale Michigan
Great info Bob.
I keep tinkering with all the 12-volt accessories. And USB has many more. The more you know the further you'll go.
Always so informative thank you.
bob good video and yes too many people underestimate the weather and i deformably agree with you about having more battery storage
worst case you can always start your vehicle or go for a drive you deformably cant rely on the weather
Am on a road trip up the west coast from Arizona to Washington, in a little Ford Transit Connect cargo van. Have a Bluetti AC 180 battery, charges off the car while I drive... have to remember to unplug it when I sleep, or the car battery is dead in the morning! But it is all I need, no solar. Easy to keep my phone, iPad, and laptop charged. Also to run a small 120V heater for a few minutes before bed. Having a great trip, but commited a Federal Crime in Yosemite, sleeping last night in a parking space outside the Eatery Cafe. They want you to pay $175 to stay in their campground... or $350 at the Lodge... or $800 at the Ahwanee Hotel. But Yosemite Valley is drop-dead beautiful. Saw lots of vans and Class Cs, plus a few larger Class As.
The Bluetti changes your mindset. In mid-afternoon, I keep thinking 'where will I sleep tonight where I can plug in?' But you don't need to... the extension cord I brought goes unused.
P.S. -- glad I brought a MicroStart jumpstarter. Forgot to unplug the Bluetti twice at night!
I have 600watts on the roof and I can put out 400watts folding panels on the ground, using 2 solar chargers. I can also charge from the alternator using 40A DC/DC but rarely need to. 400AH battery.
Amazon 100AH Lithium battery with a BMS for $129
The cheapest entry level use is having a small enough panel to be portable fit in your windshield. One or two 12 volt of 50 watts or some of the new 100 watts are pretty small. Then you can use your car battery as an anchor when you are parked and just charge your lithium devices and backup batteries off the solar rigged to that. Only during daylight! Don't run down you starter battery! This also has the advantage of keeping your lead acid starter battery conditioned and you can always charge it up with a solar panel with clamps and a cheap pwm charge controller. You may need one of those new high volt usb c charging outlets they make for 12 volt to charge devices. You can run a 12 volt panel direct to one of those high volt usb C charging outlet designed for 12 volt, by passing the anchoring car lead acid, and charge directly through that, like to a car jumper battery that has two way usb c outlets (important feature to look for). Might take some rigging. I wouldn't charge direct to Apple products from that rig, however, just to the starter battery pack or other battery packs. The usb c port becomes part of the charge controller, so you don't need the pwm. It is also dangerous to jump to or from running modern vehicles these day with all their computers and fragile electronics, so a jumper pack is kind of a necessity these days and can also be used as a device and phone back up battery
Hello from Puerto Rico Bob and friends
What about charge controller size? I have 600 watts of folding solar panels and a 60 watt charge controller. I had a 30 watt controller with 300 watts of solar but when I added the second panel I saw a video saying that I should have a minimum of 60 watts in the controller. I hope that's correct because I hate to think that I spent money that I didn't have too.
Great videos Bob. Hope to see you at the 2025 RTR.
Safe travels to all!
600 watts ÷ 12volts = 50 amps. Go with at least a 60 amp charge controller or two 30 amp controllers.
I have 800 watts ÷ 12volts = 66.67 amps running through four Renogy 30 amp charge controllers on my Promaster hightop.
in the next 12-24 months you will have a much better option than solar and batteries. size it for the weather? you need as much as you can do if you are doing south / summer because AC needs a lot of juice
Great advice Bob! BTW blue is your best color 🤗🩷🚐
The thing I learned early on was start with what you can afford and fit, but install with expandability in mind. I went with a deluxe 200w system from Renogy (lower learning curve), but I did have to start with a gel hybrid battery. Eventually I could afford replacing that with a 200ah LiFePo battery. That dance between how much solar generation vs battery can be challenging, especially when whether sunlight consistency is challenging. So, as you suggested, we're now on a 400w and 200ah lithium system. We have a 6x10 cargo trailer so that is the max 100w panels we can fit. If we needed to upgrade, we'd have to go with larger panels. Your explanation of the key factors was spot on. The rest of is it getting smart about when you use power--use higher consumption during optimal sun so that your panels are able to keep your battery charged. At night you know your fridge is still going to be running, and you'll be running lights. If your nights are still warm (we live in SW Texas, so nights are still hot here even in mid-October), then you'll be running your fan as well. So far, our 400w/200ah system is handling everything great. The only mistake we made was getting an underpowered Inverter. At only 1000w, it is NOT enough to handle even a 750w microwave because just to startup/cycle uses MORE than 1000w. Also, other minimal use appliances like hairdryers are hard to find below 1000w (we did find one). Since we're in a converted cargo trailer, it's not practical (though not impossible) to have our battery alternately charge from our tow vehicle. We have a small 1000w inverter generator that we can supplement either shore power or recharge our batter as needed. Bottom line: Your recommendations are solid. Buy what you can afford, but consider how you can expand your system. Upgrade as you go--as you use your system you'll discover what you can do without and what you can't.
Would also add that backup charging methods are well worth it. A dc to dc charger is great investment that produces power when the vehicle is running. I also have a Smart battery charger. For longer trips especially in the winter I add my small inverter generator.
2:1 ratio - ex: 500AH of battery, 1000w of solar. Full time off grid and working full time. I am never stressed now for power.
I have 4 Battle Born 100ah batteries and I often charge them with my portable 200 solar panel... I only use it to power my 12volt refrigerator... How much you need is only dependent on how much you use...
400Ah and 1620W on my Chevy Express 2500.
Ugh 4k on 4 batteries...i 28kw for 4k@ZiggZagg11
@@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity perfect!
Thank you!
I'm form the UK & i would upgrade my RV/camper van roof solar panel on the roof to 300w 2x150w, just for the fridge itself & heated shower x3 weekly. I'd def get 2x 100A batteries & those ECO-WORTHY cost £220 each (100A) Plus would have 2x Jackeries or Bluetti etc with one running lights maybe 2 light bulbs ie Standing camp lamps (Not from the RV itself as it saves the battery) and use the kettle 2x a day & rice cooker/airfryer 1x a day & a spare small heater for a good few hours. (Not aircon) Other powerstation be for a 24"tv to watch for maybe 4hrs & to charge my phone/laptop just the once per day....those 2x portable power stations i would have a 150w solar panel in the window of my RV/campervan during the day,nite time i'd put them away of course. Does that make sense? I''ve been watching a lot ot videos & that would be me one day if i wanted to but an RV.
I wish these videos would include the cost for having the solar mounted on the roof and all the connections needed. I have power stations and solar panels to charge them but they are plug-and-go, electrical dummy-proof but if I decide to go with rooftop, I need to budget for a lot more than just the panels and batteries. For those of us who aren't DIYers, it would be nice to have an idea of what having something like that installed and hooked up might be.
Cost me $2000 to have two 400 watt panels mounted on the roof of my 5x8 trailer. That included the panels, installation, wiring and internal lighting. I bought my Bluetti AC200Max separately
Good info.
Cody gets beamed up by aliens at 10:53. Alien abduction caught on camera.
😂
Did I get anything out of this video? Yes, bushes make dogs disappear!😳 10:54
lol
1620W on top my standard length Chevy Express 2500, 400Ah 24V LFP. Powers my 9000 BTU 22 seer mini split heat pump and Iceco 24V 75Q refrigerator/freezer just fine.
So many teardrop manufacturers offer a battery with a 100w panel and think that will power a fridge and other accessories. It’s why l chose to build my own system
I HAVE to remain near my docs in Eugene Or this winter. LOTS of rain/clouds. QUESTION: IYO...How well can solar possibly work in these conditions! LUCRETIA ❤
New to the channel. Love it.
Thank you
depends on your needs and the type of rv/van you have there no answer
Good video 👍
Thank you. This was helpful. ❤
Eco flow has a plug and play drive charge for its battery that can also reverse charge😊
The energy audit as you mentioned is great. But, there is so many factors when it comes to solar that come in play. Hardware does matter as well. I had cheap china MPPT controllers and heck even PWM when I got started. Using Lead acid gulf cart 6v batts and later AGM and well it all pretty much sucked. I never had the power and batts always going bad. I have since moved up to LifePo4 batts and Victron Charge controllers. Night and day. I have the same panels making much more power and batts off the victron controllers are topped faster and allow much deeper discharge. I have one setup 50watt panel 30amp EcoWorthy batt and victron MPPT controller on it. And that runs USB fan all 24hrs a day. USB lights and a 5 port usb fast charger off it. This one little setup ROCKS for what it is now. I have much bigger setups just wanted to say what right equipment really does as well.
Thanks!
Thank you Bob! You're awesome ❤
You also have to see how much your device Bluetti, jackery,if your useing that type is compatible with.
I had 30-100 watts for years with a Walmart battery and inverter. For phones and even an efficient fridge, 100 watts and harbor freight will do you south of Canadia. Ideally I'd go with 200 watts and a Costco deep cycle unless you're cooking with electric.
Something important mentioned here was charge your battery from the alternator. Once I did this the solar became much less important.
Y'all's be FREE!
PS. REGIGGERED NEW FAV WORD ITS ACTUALLY AN OFFICIAL WORD!
Get what you need for the average days, but rather than spending a lot on extra batteries and solar panels to cover the bad days, keep a small gas or propane generator.
On this theme solar or wind or generator it's all power. The battery is the most portable quiet energy. What is the rule of thumb for 100 watts means how big of a battery do I need or 250 watts or 400 watts equal what size of battery or batteries.
Do as Bob says👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸Hes right on these recommendations
Not all of them he's not but everyone is different. I'm in Canada and I find I have too much power for what I need. Been in this for 20 years. I have 300 watts on the roof and 200 amp/hrs of battery. Going back to a 1200 watt generator for back up. The generator will probably collect dust
well money can limit anything .. a single large panel, small inverter and deep cycle batt can keep your personal electronics going and can emergency jump your vehical, run low power led lighting etc ... if you want 'real' capacity though that can run fridges, tvs and pumps overnight, run a microwave heat water etc and basically be used in place of a generator or shore power, then the more the better - think ~10 large panels, a couple of 3000w+ pure sine inverters for redundancy if one goes out, and~8+ large hi-cap batts .. if you got money and space to set up a large system, its really cool, if not, put money towards a larger quiet generator, much more cost effective .. but again, a smaller solar system wont do much .. a panel or two, blah blah wont run much of anything that needs real power - led lighting, charge personal electronics, maybe run an rv pump sparingly
$2 per watt is not a bargain. Some less than $1 a watt. 1/2 kilowatt is the minimum requirement for all applications, including
at least 300@ hr batteries.
Hi. looking into a van in the UK, 60A dc to Dc solar on roof and a 300ah 12v battery bank. That was until I found the 200ah b12V battery and fell in love. A little bigger but twice the capacity. Solar - Will be fitting as much as I can House panels sized to fit on the roof. When its flat or not sunny, I live in the UK! charge at an EV post or Engine by DC to DC or 240V Generator using the DC to DC and a server rack power supply and 30A Victron charger.
Take care M..
Hi! Thank you for all the solar information! Has helped me immensely but i have a different question for you! After all this time do you still recommend joolca camping hot water heater? I'm one step into going off grid with my family of 5 but with 2 tenage girls a showr is a must for us! If not is there another hot water system you would recommend? Thanks!
I plan 600 watts solar. Two lithium 100 watts each. Mostly in a California.
That's probably a bit too much solar. The general rule is twice the Watts of solar as the Amp Hours of the batteries. You could go a little higher, like 500W for 200Ah but 600W would probably be a waste. Either that or get 300Ah of batteries.
You'd probably be fine with 200Ah and 400W if you aren't using air conditioning for cooling (use a 12V electric throw for heat) or an Induction stovetop. If using an Induction stovetop I'd go the 600W 300Ah option, and if using air conditioning you'd need like at least 1000W and 500Ah.
So when I first started solar panels were rare and super expensive so I had none and lived just fine. So how much do you "need" is NONE
Exactly. Simple is better.
I connected all my gadgets, turned on at the same time and saw the Wattmeter at home (with everything at home powered off) ... that yield 500w/h and so I went for 5 days of that :D hahaha
I don’t want to have to carry and drag huge portable solar panels around. I have a 5x8 off road trailer and bought a Bluetti AC200Max with 800 watt panels mounted permanently on the trailer’s roof.
It works great and l can power my ICECO fridge, microwave, coffee maker, Zero Breeze AC, lights etc. It cost almost $4000 total (including installation and wiring, lighting, etc) but it makes camping so much more enjoyable and convenient, especially since l boondock all the time. My camping is done from April-October in the desert or Rocky Mountains.
Thaaaaanks :)
Excellent information! Can you talk a bit more about matching panels to batteries? Wat sizes do panels come in? Is there a point where bigger isn't better?
Do you think an Anker SOLIX X1 could be a viable option if have the space in rig? Any input from anyone would be appreciated as I know this is for home application, but I just think that this option could be a game changer when it comes to having enough battery and capacity to pretty much run anything for days. Also, what would be needed outside of space as far as wiring and any other needs to make this efficient. Thanks in advance for any advice!
Harbor Freight 100 watt panels for around 115 bucks
I've got an extended transit. About 6ftx11ft of roof space. Only fits 800w of panels. Plan on a bluetti 180P & 180T ( 2 removable batteries) for power😅 1800w, 1152 amp hrs, each. With 2, 100ah batteries as back up. Probably a lot more power than what I'll need. But, on a cloudy day, I'll only get 160w from the panels. And it's going to take 6 to 8 months to assemble all the equipment, because it's expensive.
If I eliminate the fridge it will make power requirements less than half
I'm so glad my power needs are very low I'm on a tight budget because of my fixed income but I'm looking at a 100 watt solar panel kit with everything including the charger yes from harbor freight and one 200 amp hour lithium battery plus I'm upgrading the battery terminals and getting battery isolator so when I'm driving I could charge and let the solar panel take over when I'm parked I don't have a refrigerator or a laptop small 6 volt oscillating 12-volt fan couple LED lights some pretty lucky on saving power there but future plans I'm looking at at 200 to 300 w and upgrade to with a couple of 200 amp hour batteries
Seems to me a small Yamaha generator or similar can make your battery system able to deal with anything when the weather turns
You're right..generators are a good solution. Just be aware of the downside.
Eco-worthy has a 150ah for $300.
I would argue the opposite of having too much battery.
As Long as your solar charge controller can handle what you are putting into it, it's better to have too much solar.
Because on inclement/overcast days your solar panels can only produce so much.
The excess power will admittedly be wasted on a normal sunny day, BUT when you over panel your system you will get more power in on those days where you really need it.
If your two 300 watt panels (that produce about 550W combined on a good sunny day) might barely eek out 200W total on a crappy day.
But if you over panel and have three 300 panels then (due to your charge controllers amperage limit) on a "normal" sunny day you will likely still only get about 550-575W.
BUT those three panels on an overcast day might make about 300W total.
Those bad weather days really make the difference and getting as many watts in on those inclement days are always more important than the full sun days.
Blessing
You can buy a cheap solar panel and cheap pwm charge controller with built in usb ports and badda bing you don't need a battery. You can even get a solar usb power pack that is roughly the size of a smart phone. That's as cheap and compact as it gets.
There's a good source of used solar in Arizona called SanTan Solar and they're in Gilbert.
My first question was “what do I want run off the solar?” Then looked at the costs, my budget, and made trade offs from there.
Solar is great, but if you move around every other day look into dc to dc charger + small solar system to give you back up.
I’d love to do 1000watts on my roof. But unless I put them on some sort of truss system to lift them over the top of the vents and sunroof bubble. Wife says that’s not gonna happen so I think about 800 will be my absolute top.
That should keep my 2 280ah LiPo4 batteries charged.