Best VANOS rebuild video ever!! Super useful to be able to see the full procedure, makes it much easier to undersrnad what's going on. 👍👍 excellent work, and thank you.
Many thanks for such great comments. Sorry it is 50 minutes long, but other VANOS videos I had seen were 3-4 minutes long and while giving good advice, never actually showed you the process in its entirety, so I thought I would show mine, warts and all.....I am still so embarrassed by the hash job I made of pressing the VANOS lip with the workbench moving around so much, the second one I did I had learnt the lesson and braced the work bench better. I hope it helps and good luck with your rebuild.
I also used a Besian kit, and the new teflon shield ring for the O-ring is impossibly large in size and very fragile..........stuffing it back into the correct position is a complete nightmare. The teflon ring gets damaged very easily trying to get the last section popped over the plastic ledge.
is the VANOS rebuild a "one-time" fix, as we are permanently deforming the timing wheel? In other words, can I redo this entire procedure after it already had it done before? Much appreciated.
Hey mate, I want to swap my old D1 for a L322 with Canó’s rattle for 1 second on start up. Can you just do the canons wothouth doing timing chain and everything?
If the rattle is only for a second or two on start up it could be nothing major aside from the non return valve behind the vanos solenoid not retaining oil in the system. You can do the vanos without doing the guides or replacing the chain, but you do need to time the engine and clamp the crank and cams from moving with the timing tools to get the vanos off and keep the engine timed. One of the biggest weakness of the M62 was the plastic chain guides I would very much advocate doing these or at least checking them on an unknown engine! Great cars and easy to work on but you do ideally need to use the timing tools.
If I rotated the gearset strongly I could just get a reading as soon as I relaxed pressure on turning the gearset continuity was lost. The reason for continuity testing is to ensure the gearset is rotated all the way in one direction on fitment and doing the timing chain timing. Aslong as you are confident you have it turned to the absolute maximum in the required direction, that should be OK...Continuity would be the gold standard, but not strictly, absolutely necessary as long as it is fully rotated in the required direction when setting the timing.
@@AntChesney Great video by the way. If not the best one out there. I am aware that the continuity test does not always show a short. I ask about the continuity on the pins because I believe the pressing of the vanos changes the position of the gear inside the vanos making it harder to contact the pins when retarding the center shaft. It's more of a theory but it would make sense being that when pressing the unit you are getting rid of the space between the plastic piece and the vanos wall which initially had a 9mm gap prior to the press.
Good Video, however wondering why you installed the new rings before crimping, as instructions state to press/crimp first to prevent damage to new seals. Also, not all units require pressing, only if the visible gap between the plastic ring and metal lip, perhaps why was so difficult to press. Finally, the fine people at Beisan kindly offered the suggestion of using an impact wrench for the final press!
I did it to the Beisan spec of 136N.m as you say, you then have to turn the bolt a further full turn...I kinda made a hash job of tightening this as the bench moved around so much...but I did the 136N.m and the full turn....on the second I had learnt my lesson and wasn't so ham-fisted at doing it. Yes it has to be sodding tight as what you are doing is re-folding the lip over to ensure the plastic ring is firmly seated and there is no leakage past the seals....you are basically folding a metal shape that is originally folded using a machine!
It didnt help the bench I was using kept moving about. The reason it needs to be so tight is because you are essentially trying to re-fold the lip of the VANOS unit to take up any space between the lip and the plastic ring to prevent any hydraulic leakage. The gauge of the material to be formed is quite thick hence the pressure required.
Best VANOS rebuild video ever!! Super useful to be able to see the full procedure, makes it much easier to undersrnad what's going on. 👍👍 excellent work, and thank you.
Many thanks for such great comments. Sorry it is 50 minutes long, but other VANOS videos I had seen were 3-4 minutes long and while giving good advice, never actually showed you the process in its entirety, so I thought I would show mine, warts and all.....I am still so embarrassed by the hash job I made of pressing the VANOS lip with the workbench moving around so much, the second one I did I had learnt the lesson and braced the work bench better. I hope it helps and good luck with your rebuild.
I also used a Besian kit, and the new teflon shield ring for the O-ring is impossibly large in size and very fragile..........stuffing it back into the correct position is a complete nightmare. The teflon ring gets damaged very easily trying to get the last section popped over the plastic ledge.
is the VANOS rebuild a "one-time" fix, as we are permanently deforming the timing wheel? In other words, can I redo this entire procedure after it already had it done before? Much appreciated.
We have done the same procedure and we lost connectivity on the pins after. Is that normal?
Both Teflon seals fell below the o ring and I had to break them to fish them out. Easy $40 down the drain
Hi would you do a rebuild service
Hey mate, I want to swap my old D1 for a L322 with Canó’s rattle for 1 second on start up. Can you just do the canons wothouth doing timing chain and everything?
If the rattle is only for a second or two on start up it could be nothing major aside from the non return valve behind the vanos solenoid not retaining oil in the system. You can do the vanos without doing the guides or replacing the chain, but you do need to time the engine and clamp the crank and cams from moving with the timing tools to get the vanos off and keep the engine timed. One of the biggest weakness of the M62 was the plastic chain guides I would very much advocate doing these or at least checking them on an unknown engine! Great cars and easy to work on but you do ideally need to use the timing tools.
Were you able to get a continuity reading off of any of the three pins after pressing the vanos?
If I rotated the gearset strongly I could just get a reading as soon as I relaxed pressure on turning the gearset continuity was lost. The reason for continuity testing is to ensure the gearset is rotated all the way in one direction on fitment and doing the timing chain timing. Aslong as you are confident you have it turned to the absolute maximum in the required direction, that should be OK...Continuity would be the gold standard, but not strictly, absolutely necessary as long as it is fully rotated in the required direction when setting the timing.
@@AntChesney Great video by the way. If not the best one out there. I am aware that the continuity test does not always show a short. I ask about the continuity on the pins because I believe the pressing of the vanos changes the position of the gear inside the vanos making it harder to contact the pins when retarding the center shaft. It's more of a theory but it would make sense being that when pressing the unit you are getting rid of the space between the plastic piece and the vanos wall which initially had a 9mm gap prior to the press.
Good Video, however wondering why you installed the new rings before crimping, as instructions state to press/crimp first to prevent damage to new seals. Also, not all units require pressing, only if the visible gap between the plastic ring and metal lip, perhaps why was so difficult to press. Finally, the fine people at Beisan kindly offered the suggestion of using an impact wrench for the final press!
Good video, although some bits could have been sped up such as cleaning just to make the video that bit shorter. Good job none-the-less
How much Nm you tight? I don't understand. Beissan give 136 Nm ;)
I did it to the Beisan spec of 136N.m as you say, you then have to turn the bolt a further full turn...I kinda made a hash job of tightening this as the bench moved around so much...but I did the 136N.m and the full turn....on the second I had learnt my lesson and wasn't so ham-fisted at doing it. Yes it has to be sodding tight as what you are doing is re-folding the lip over to ensure the plastic ring is firmly seated and there is no leakage past the seals....you are basically folding a metal shape that is originally folded using a machine!
@@AntChesney Tnx , useful video :) Do u have video after vanos repair ( engine sound) ?
How’s it holding up?
It runs very well. No issues at all right up until the point I scrapped it due to corrosion issues throught the monocoque to sub frame area.
Why does it have to be so tight jeeze 💀💀
It didnt help the bench I was using kept moving about. The reason it needs to be so tight is because you are essentially trying to re-fold the lip of the VANOS unit to take up any space between the lip and the plastic ring to prevent any hydraulic leakage. The gauge of the material to be formed is quite thick hence the pressure required.
Speak up!
Этот ремонт напрочь убивать ванос без возможности его отремонтировать
Как это лучше всего сделать?
Только не обжимать разрезать и менять уплотнения