Excellent video. How would the procedure differ if one did not want a glass / plexiglass cover? I assume it would the same, with the exception of the glass and felt on the 'rebate'..
Hi there, If you choose not to include a glazing, note that the enclosure will not be effective at buffering the environmental fluctuations as discussed in the video. If you want to display the work without the glazing, you will want to safely install the painting in the frame. It is important to provide a cushioned surface for the painting to sit on in order to ensure the painting surface is protected. If the rebate is not wide enough, adding a padded spacer will provide a secure surface for the painting to sit on. If the rebate is wide enough, you can place the padding directly on the rebate. Thanks for watching!
@@RCIPCHIN Thank you so much for the information. Maybe I just do not know where to look, but there is a scarcity of instructional videos on framing panel / masonite paintings. Most framing videos are for canvas paintings. Most videos about panel paintings basically only cover the 'floating frame' technique and gluing the panel to wood. I want neither of those options. The artist who cleaned the painting for me was adamant that it be displayed without glazing. Not sure why. Thanks again. Your videos and website information are excellent.
Hi there! CCI Note 10/8 Framing a Painting, explains how to frame a painting on canvas on a stretcher or strainer as well as on rigid supports. This note gives quite a bit of information on different aspects of framing and makes specific references to canvas paintings. You can find CCI Note 10/8 Framing a Painting here: www.canada.ca/en/conservation-institute/services/conservation-preservation-publications/canadian-conservation-institute-notes/framing-painting.html If you need more detailed or focused recommendations, you can send us an email at PCH.iccservices-cciservices.PCH@canada.ca.Thanks!
Thank you for your comment. Good catch on the flaw in the back mat. It’s true that the corners are slightly less than perfect - this sort of thing can happen when bevel cutting with a hand mat-cutter if the corners are slightly over- or under-cut, or if the blade on your mat cutting tool isn’t quite sharp enough. It’s also a reason a lot of fine art museums will employ a specialist for matting and framing - it’s an art form unto itself! As it is on the back of the frame, we did let this small imperfection pass this time. As for the spacer, it consists of thin wood strips joined together at the corners with glue and affixed in place with double-sided tape. We can assure you the spacer wood strips are cut to ensure a closed corner joint; we want a spacer that will be sound and even around the perimeters when looking at the framed painting. In the video, the polyethylene foam padding was already installed on the wood strips. The strips meet at the corners and cut in position to ensure the closest fit. What you may have seen at the corner is the meeting of the two polyethylene foam strips and not the wood strips themselves. The important thing is that when the painting is put in place under slight pressure, it will be on an uninterrupted cushioned surface of a stable material that will provide a consistent perimeter from the recto. We hope this clarified a few points!
Excellent video, very thorough.
Thank you for watching!
Excellent video. How would the procedure differ if one did not want a glass / plexiglass cover? I assume it would the same, with the exception of the glass and felt on the 'rebate'..
Hi there,
If you choose not to include a glazing, note that the enclosure will not be effective at buffering the environmental fluctuations as discussed in the video. If you want to display the work without the glazing, you will want to safely install the painting in the frame. It is important to provide a cushioned surface for the painting to sit on in order to ensure the painting surface is protected. If the rebate is not wide enough, adding a padded spacer will provide a secure surface for the painting to sit on. If the rebate is wide enough, you can place the padding directly on the rebate.
Thanks for watching!
@@RCIPCHIN Thank you so much for the information. Maybe I just do not know where to look, but there is a scarcity of instructional videos on framing panel / masonite paintings. Most framing videos are for canvas paintings. Most videos about panel paintings basically only cover the 'floating frame' technique and gluing the panel to wood. I want neither of those options. The artist who cleaned the painting for me was adamant that it be displayed without glazing. Not sure why. Thanks again. Your videos and website information are excellent.
What about canvas paintings?
Hi there!
CCI Note 10/8 Framing a Painting, explains how to frame a painting on canvas on a stretcher or strainer as well as on rigid supports. This note gives quite a bit of information on different aspects of framing and makes specific references to canvas paintings. You can find CCI Note 10/8 Framing a Painting here: www.canada.ca/en/conservation-institute/services/conservation-preservation-publications/canadian-conservation-institute-notes/framing-painting.html If you need more detailed or focused recommendations, you can send us an email at PCH.iccservices-cciservices.PCH@canada.ca.Thanks!
The matboard back featuring the labels has terribly sloppy cuts and the spacer inside the frame also looks badly joined together.
Thank you for your comment. Good catch on the flaw in the back mat. It’s true that the corners are slightly less than perfect - this sort of thing can happen when bevel cutting with a hand mat-cutter if the corners are slightly over- or under-cut, or if the blade on your mat cutting tool isn’t quite sharp enough. It’s also a reason a lot of fine art museums will employ a specialist for matting and framing - it’s an art form unto itself! As it is on the back of the frame, we did let this small imperfection pass this time. As for the spacer, it consists of thin wood strips joined together at the corners with glue and affixed in place with double-sided tape. We can assure you the spacer wood strips are cut to ensure a closed corner joint; we want a spacer that will be sound and even around the perimeters when looking at the framed painting. In the video, the polyethylene foam padding was already installed on the wood strips. The strips meet at the corners and cut in position to ensure the closest fit. What you may have seen at the corner is the meeting of the two polyethylene foam strips and not the wood strips themselves. The important thing is that when the painting is put in place under slight pressure, it will be on an uninterrupted cushioned surface of a stable material that will provide a consistent perimeter from the recto. We hope this clarified a few points!