Great video. I would advice everyone to grab your favorite drink, breath and invest 9 min. It is worth your time. I get ADHD when i work on my w123 and skip through videos and then turn back to them and find the answer.
Excellent explanation and overveiw to a common problem. Thanks. In my case I used a normally open electrical solenoid that energises when you turn the ignition on to remove vacuum to the shuttle. It Would be wonderful if someone or yourself can invent a method to repair the individual components as they are getting very difficult to source now. Keep up the videos
Only accurate to specialized for me but I know when somebody presents a solid presentation too bad I am not smart enough to follow but I love these cars I'm hoping to find one
You could just use an electric solenoid to replace the vacuum shut-off valve. Depending on what type of solenoid you have, you'd have to connect one terminal to line 15 and the other to ground. Line 15, IIRC, is live in the START and ON positions.
You could indeed but that adds complexity that isn't required of course. On my own diesels I prefer as little dependence on electricity as possible and could effectively start and drive one of them without a battery if I have someone to tow start me. Thats the biggest appeal of them for me, simplicity.
Mine won't turn off when cold but if you give the throttle a rev it then turns off. Been like this for ages but now when cold I also get the hard brake. Should I try replacing the new shut off valve which I have first or does it sound like the pump diaphragm? Many thanks
i am currently suffering such an issue, there is some oil in the vacuum lines and the engine won't shut off. i already replaced the membrane and seals. but the problem is still there. i think i will replace the shutoff valve next hoping that will be the main problem
@@oldmercguy they feel good, vacuum valve has been replaced like I said. I removed the oil from the lines and now the engine shuts off again. My theory is that there was still some oil in the brake booster from the broken vacuum valve before. (I drove about 50 km with the broken pump). Now i am trying to find the vacuum leak in the door locks :)
@@MarcS4R I thought that was the case but I blocked off just the green air line from the ignition the I gained 100% of my doors and shut off back, I’m going to convert my climate control to manual
Every time I watch one of these videos I just want a diesel W123 more and more
You wiuld not regret it! Still miss my 240d!
just get one, great cars!
Great video. I would advice everyone to grab your favorite drink, breath and invest 9 min. It is worth your time. I get ADHD when i work on my w123 and skip through videos and then turn back to them and find the answer.
Thank you!
Very informative
Excellent explanation and overveiw to a common problem. Thanks. In my case I used a normally open electrical solenoid that energises when you turn the ignition on to remove vacuum to the shuttle. It Would be wonderful if someone or yourself can invent a method to repair the individual components as they are getting very difficult to source now. Keep up the videos
The only car in the world that doesn't want to stop: as long as you have fuel oil, air and compression it will run! :))))
Gracias, from Uruguay.
Your channel is awesome, the videos are straight to the point and very informative, thanks a lot :)
Thank you, I'm glad they are useful.
Only accurate to specialized for me but I know when somebody presents a solid presentation too bad I am not smart enough to follow but I love these cars
I'm hoping to find one
My climate control system was pissing out air
What is this part called ? I’m having to manually close it it stays open I’m guessing
You could just use an electric solenoid to replace the vacuum shut-off valve. Depending on what type of solenoid you have, you'd have to connect one terminal to line 15 and the other to ground. Line 15, IIRC, is live in the START and ON positions.
You could indeed but that adds complexity that isn't required of course. On my own diesels I prefer as little dependence on electricity as possible and could effectively start and drive one of them without a battery if I have someone to tow start me. Thats the biggest appeal of them for me, simplicity.
Mine won't turn off when cold but if you give the throttle a rev it then turns off. Been like this for ages but now when cold I also get the hard brake. Should I try replacing the new shut off valve which I have first or does it sound like the pump diaphragm? Many thanks
By virtue of the brake being hard, the pump diaphragm is the most likely suspect.
Thanks for sharing.
Great info. Tks.
how are people reaching the 4 bolts on the bracket when the injection pump is still mounted?
On the shut-off valve? Easily accessible
i am currently suffering such an issue, there is some oil in the vacuum lines and the engine won't shut off. i already replaced the membrane and seals. but the problem is still there. i think i will replace the shutoff valve next hoping that will be the main problem
How do your brakes feel? The oil in the vacuum pipe could also be brake fluid if your booster is on the way out.
@@oldmercguy they feel good, vacuum valve has been replaced like I said. I removed the oil from the lines and now the engine shuts off again. My theory is that there was still some oil in the brake booster from the broken vacuum valve before. (I drove about 50 km with the broken pump). Now i am trying to find the vacuum leak in the door locks :)
My problem laid in the vacuum climate control system
i fixed mine it was in the driver door @@Aaronhouston33
@@MarcS4R I thought that was the case but I blocked off just the green air line from the ignition the I gained 100% of my doors and shut off back, I’m going to convert my climate control to manual