In a system with no pressure, why use AN fittings when flat Corbin clamps are plenty? Plus, since you want vapors of oil, blow-by and moisture to condense into a liquid, you want a temperature drop. With an aluminum catch can over the exhaust, heat will quickly transfer into the can. It makes more sense to mount it in a cooler location after all there is plenty of PCV rated hose. The cooler location would allow higher thermal condensation of any liquid bearing vapor to fall into the can increasing its efficiency & producing much better results. It just seems strange to design & market a product and avoid proper placement. I would not install a remote oil filter adaptor and mount it to the dash! Think ahead as rear guys don’t read instructions. DK. ASE master tech since 78, retired.
The engines crankcase produces vapor of water, un-burn fuel, weak acids and carbon particulates. Mounting any catch can away from under hood / engine exhaust heat will help the cans media, cavities and surface area of contact, condense these vapors into a liquid. The length of hose in a quality kit will allow for better results. The addition of a 3rd fresh air line with one way check valves should be mounted directly in front of the throttle body. This ensures that a vacuum is present even during periods of WOT operation or towing. The engine is a vacuum pump, but behind the throttle valve, the intake reaches ambient air pressure. Only air source that is moving into the engine is in front of the throttle body and can be mounted on the bottom side. Without this, nothing goes into the catch can when blow by is at its worst. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
But at idle it has posative pressure right? So wouldn't a one way check valve cause an increase in posative pressure at the crank? It's 1.8 bar +P as is, and I've seen catch cans increasing +P to a level of 2.1-6.4. At 6.4 you're going to blow out seals like your rear main seal after a few months. I ordered a catch can with optional air intake. Been sitting on my workbench for 2 months. Still can't figure out if it's worth it. I have blowby for sure. I fixed half the blowby by replacing my valve covers with the new design that the GM TSB fixes but still can't figure out the best route and if I should use the air filter on the can. FYI the catch cans with the bronze filter are too restrictive, they tested way to high pressure of 6.2. Also the 3/8" line that comes with most cans is also too restrictive, I added 5/8" AN10 hose.
Catch cans are great, they definitely eliminate the blow by, however take caution in colder temps. I live in Colorado and my catch can freezes come winter time. The idea is to check it frequently, and always avoid idling the truck.🤙🏼
you still have two lines one from each valve cover going to the intake before the throttle body, you haven't fully solved the issue. you should probably bridge those two valve cover lines together , and also run them into a catch can and then run an out line from the catch can to pre throttle body. Reason being , when you only have a line going from PCV to the manifold , the manifold pressure drops under heavy throttle applications at the same time under heavy throttle crankcase pressure increases , the only way you will still have a vacuum is by running a line before the throttle body.
You are correct. They actually sell a catch can with an additional port so that you can account for WOT. This requires adding a bung which I didn't want to do. This system catches enough for my needs.
Your right I have watched this video and many others concerning PCV and catch cans and they are not consistent on there installation. On this vid his new system is not drawing air (vacuum) from the throttle intake or plenum, the hose is hooked up to the block valley plate not the Air intake, Press yes but not a vacuum. Im sure there will be press build up from the block , but is that the best way to route ?
@@williamhorvat8224 you'll just need a bracket that works. If you check on elites site they probably have one designed for your car. I know they did for the 5th gens
They tend to get clogged in my experience because of the condensation you get water mixing with the dirty oil and turning into kind of a sludge at the bottom. Have to wipe it out with a towel usually.
-- Honest question: Wouldn't it be simpler to just run an open hose off the head and let all that drool onto ground, and seal the manifold side of the PCV system?
Installed an Elite RX with clean side separator on my 17 High Country 6.2L since new. You wouldn't believe the crap that's in the can after 5000kms. Mixture of water, oil and sludge
Same on mine! Very glad I installed one. I think the water comes from condesation building up on the catch can from the temperature gradient differences in the winter with how cold the can is in comparison to the oil vapors.
I'm using mobil 1 extended performance and the mobile 1 filter. I have another video on how much mine captured. If you search through the videos you'll find it. It is under my 2014 Silverado playlist
Lay the hose out in the sun to warm it up on a hot day, slips right in the fitting. I always turn my hoses with the writing down or out of view. Not too crazy about blocking the dipstick or oil cap, but I am picky!
That's not a bad point. Still, it should be much cooler than the rest of the system so the oil and water should condense fairly well. It definitely catches a lot that is for sure. I just liked how clean the install was in this location.
No need for AN fittings on a vacuum line. I got a Air Oil Separator from Moroso for $144.00. Aluminum, brass fittings, drain valve, and stainless steel mounting brackets.
Good presentation. The music is annoying and distracting. It's a challenge to mute the video and read cc while watching the install. Thanks for the presentation.
I don't have the blow by anymore I had them update my Pistons and rings with the latest update in their oil consumption bulletin it doesn't smoke when I floor it no more and it doesn't use a drop of oil I am 30,000 plus miles since they rebuild it not a problem
There is one for 14 through 16 I believe it was for oil consumption I was using 3 quarts in a thousand miles I was using, My dealer didn't oil consumption test and found out that I needed new pistons and rings and they have an update in the parts they rebuilt the engine in the truck it took them 20 hours and I want to say they told me warranty paid cuz I had my powertrain warranty still $5,000 to do it
Awesome video! I am looking to add an E2000 series can to my 2018 Silverado 5.3. I am curious at how often are you having to empty the can? And with the oil collected, I am assuming you need to check your current oil levels and add back fresh oil to compensate for what is now waste oil?
Great job with the presentation! I own a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD gasser w/6.0L Vortec engine. This engine employs "Sequential Fuel Injection" compared to the 5.3L and 6.2L V8 EcoTec engines that use Direct Fuel Injection. I'm wondering whether my truck would benefit from a catch can. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the video sir, I just copied you and bought the same one. Question though, did you slide the hose over the first bump, or all the way over where the original hose snapped onto? I'm having a hard time sliding all the way down to base. This is the engine side of the hoses I'm talking about. Thanks again sir!
After installing the catch can, do you find you hear lots of air noise coming out of the crankcase into the can? It sounds like a vacuum leak. I don’t think it’s leaking, it just makes a lot of air noise which is fooling me for a bit of a rough idle.
Thanks for the feedback! I have a lot of videos for my truck coming! I have not had a problem with the AN fittings and I've been running this setup for about 8 months. They are a little hard to install the hose into but they look significantly better than barbed fittings.
I installed mine about 1,000 miles ago, and went to check it and had maybe only a spoonful. 2018 Sierra 6.2 with afm delete from 500 miles. Current miles is 26k, could it just not be using much oil. I also did the clean side separator as well.
awesome thanks man just curious why you left them still running to the intake i'm getting ready to do mine when i swap out my intake manifold for the 6.2 and 6.2 tbody i'll probably just either cap em off or pipe them together i'd like to cut out as much as i can from going to the intake since there isn't really any easy way to clean the valves
Nice tutorial video bro, I think I like your installation best, on the brake booster bolt! My question is, does the catch can help with rough engine idling? I have a 2015 Silverado crew cab 5.3 v8, and just a couple of months ago my engine started to have a rough idle, even after I had an oil change done by the dealer, I mentioned the idle problem to the service men and their reply was to have a chemical flush that would cost me an additional $300.00. In your opinion what would you recommend if you where in my shoes? Thanks in advance for your reply!!
@The Sundae Drive, I appreciate your quick response, I don't drive it much except to work, and maybe short trips on weekends with my wife. It has 26,600 miles, It threw up one code last year for a misfire code, and that was when I took it to the dealer, and they informed me that cylinder 4 spark plug wire came loose and as for any pending codes, there are none. I take it the dealer for regular routine maintenance, and always get a clean bill of engine performance, but it could run better in my opinion. Thanks again for your help! ;-)
I would check for pending codes. These trucks are known to have the high pressure fuel pump go bad which can cause a rough idle. Mine just went bad and I had idling issues.
@The Sundae Drive, Thanks a lot bro, gonna pull out my handheld scan tool and see what happens, I have an appointment to take her back to the dealer and trouble shoot this issue, while giving them a piece of my mind! I greatly appreciate your advice, and look forward to learning more things about my vehicle through your videos! Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@The Sundae Drive, there are no codes, but my tool does not allow me to do a live run scan, but maybe the dealer can find something. Did your truck have about the same mileage or more? When I find out what the problem was, I will most definitely post it on your page, Thanks for your help!!!
@@TheSundaeDrive thanks man! Love your videos everything is so easy to follow and you're very knowledgeable. I'm sure you've helped save people thousands of dollars 🤙
@@TheSundaeDrive it must be the clamps. I could slide the hose into the crank and other spot with the clamp on the end. Is the hose supposed to but up against the flange that's slightly larger than the tube, or go over that ? I'm gonna get some regulars hose clamps I think
It should not affect your warranty. But, your warranty can vary a lot based upon the dealer. They would have to trace an issue directly to the catch can to void any warranty. It is super easy to remove tho and it could not be detected that it was installed. You can check with your dealer to be sure
Not sure off-hand, just whatever was included with the kit. Elite would be able to answer that tho or might have it listed in the description of the part
Honestly, I am unsure. Diesel motors operate under much higher compression rates and having never owned a diesel I am leery to point you one way or the other. I would reach out to elite engineering directly and let us know what they say. Best of luck!
@The Sundae Drive, Well I am specifically referring to a (gas) engine, because I questioned the serviceman at the dealership I purchased my truck from, I told him." I would like to install a Oil catch can to prevent carbon buildup in my engine", and his reply was "it would void the warranty on my drivetrain", so I can only guess that it would apply to diesel engines also! If anything, I believe it is a scam to milk more money out of the car consumers, so that way the average (DIY) guy can't perform any maintenance on their vehicles, we will have to consort the dealership for any hick-up our cars and trucks may experience. This is just my opinion!!!
@@TheSundaeDrive good quality Billet aluminum has a 4 chamber diffuser system and everything is plug-and-play fittings clicks right into the OEM parts no push lock. They just uploaded a video a few days ago. Doing an install
If you scroll down in the description there is a link to the Elite Engineering Site that still works :) the top two links to articles about catch can function and benefits I just realized aren't working tho so thank you for catching that.
So question: I have a 2012 Sierra 5.3 and it consumes oil. I was told it’s due to the valve cover design and location of the PCV. Is that correct because it’s consumed oil since new? Will this help in cutting back all that oil being sucked into the inttake.
the pvc system there is an upgraded valve cover with a newer designed pvc port but that is only part of the problem. the other part is these engines are known for oil fouling plugs and other issues due to AFM VLOM. to truly fix it is to replace the AFM lifters and the VLOM.
With 50K on the truck I'd sure like to see your intake valves BEFORE the catch can install. Then after you run it for a few thousand miles take another shot of your valves to see the difference.
@@seanfrank4158 true. I didn't want to tear the motor down that far when doing the install but I'm getting ready to take the motor apart to delete the AFM system and I will be sure to film a catch can update video with the motor apart and see how it all looks.
Nice. I'm really looking forward to that. I just bought a '16 GMC Sierra 1500 with only 21000 kilometers (13000 miles) on it and I'm just learning a bit about these DI engines. I think these catch cans offer up a little bit of peace of mind and I'll likely be installing one on my 5.3 soon.
@@seanfrank4158 agreed! I'll be doing a full video guide on the AFM delete as well. That will hopefully be up and edited by the end of the year. Catch can video will be up sooner.
Technically, no mod is allowed to void a warranty unless they can prove the modification caused an issue. However, I. Practice, different dealers don't follow that rule. If in doubt. Just remove the catch can before taking it in for service. 5 minutes to uninstall and reinstall.
I do not think that it would. It is a dealer by dealer question tho. If you are concerned that it could, simply remove it and reinstall the factory connections. It is a 10 minute job and they would have no way of detecting that you had a can installed.
The Clean-side solution addresses that small amount of oil vapor that enters the intake air charge upstream of the throttle body during WOT operation when the intake manifold vacuum is not present. The Clean-side solution allows 100% MAF metered air entry while trapping the oil during wide open throttle operation and allowing it to return back into the valve cover as soon as the throttle is lifted. Hope this helps!
They changed the 5.3 alot my 2010 the alternator is on the drivers side and my water hose inlet is n the passanger side and pcv hose is in passanger side
@@TheSundaeDrive hi i want to buy that exact catch can for my 2015 silverado...so i was wondering where didi get it and what are the specofications...thanks
@@charitoledesma I believe the link for the catch can is down in the description of the video but it is any E2 catch can by elite engineering and I purchased it on their website
I put a catch can on every one of my vehicle's and will continue to do so but I also keep my vehicle's for a very long time so any bit of preventative maintenance or upgrades I can do it a plus to me (within reason of course lol)
Have you noticed any hissing sounds coming from the hoses since the installation? I checked both the hoses and none have any tears or holes and I don’t know what to do next? Any suggestions
I have the same setup in my camaro and it hisses as well. It is completely normal. Trying to track it down on my camaro drove me a little nuts at first but after inspecting everything I am pretty confident it is just the sound of the air moving through the catch can and the lines. I do not believe it is anything to be concerned with.
I had he same issue, noticed that the original hose is only 50 PSI and would also suck in and made the hissing noise. All I did was replace them with a stronger PSI rating I used 300 and my hoses don’t hiss or suck in no more
For direct injection motors unfortunately we disagree, it’s important because emissions regulations require the crankcase to vent back into the intake. Everyone knows it would be better to vent the crankcase to the atmosphere but that’s illegal and this is just a cheap solution by automakers without any regard for oil residue build up on the valves
The Sundae Drive I will agree. What you are concerned about is less of a problem than you think. Where I live and what the temps here are, winter for 4-5 months. It will cause more problems than provide any positive solutions.
THANK YOU! I've watched 20+ videos and NOONE is clear where the in/out goes.. THANKS!
In a system with no pressure, why use AN fittings when flat Corbin clamps are plenty? Plus, since you want vapors of oil, blow-by and moisture to condense into a liquid, you want a temperature drop. With an aluminum catch can over the exhaust, heat will quickly transfer into the can. It makes more sense to mount it in a cooler location after all there is plenty of PCV rated hose. The cooler location would allow higher thermal condensation of any liquid bearing vapor to fall into the can increasing its efficiency & producing much better results. It just seems strange to design & market a product and avoid proper placement. I would not install a remote oil filter adaptor and mount it to the dash! Think ahead as rear guys don’t read instructions.
DK. ASE master tech since 78, retired.
The engines crankcase produces vapor of water, un-burn fuel, weak acids and carbon particulates. Mounting any catch can away from under hood / engine exhaust heat will help the cans media, cavities and surface area of contact, condense these vapors into a liquid. The length of hose in a quality kit will allow for better results. The addition of a 3rd fresh air line with one way check valves should be mounted directly in front of the throttle body. This ensures that a vacuum is present even during periods of WOT operation or towing. The engine is a vacuum pump, but behind the throttle valve, the intake reaches ambient air pressure. Only air source that is moving into the engine is in front of the throttle body and can be mounted on the bottom side. Without this, nothing goes into the catch can when blow by is at its worst. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Can you make a video on it
A pcv valve lol
But at idle it has posative pressure right? So wouldn't a one way check valve cause an increase in posative pressure at the crank? It's 1.8 bar +P as is, and I've seen catch cans increasing +P to a level of 2.1-6.4. At 6.4 you're going to blow out seals like your rear main seal after a few months. I ordered a catch can with optional air intake. Been sitting on my workbench for 2 months. Still can't figure out if it's worth it. I have blowby for sure. I fixed half the blowby by replacing my valve covers with the new design that the GM TSB fixes but still can't figure out the best route and if I should use the air filter on the can. FYI the catch cans with the bronze filter are too restrictive, they tested way to high pressure of 6.2. Also the 3/8" line that comes with most cans is also too restrictive, I added 5/8" AN10 hose.
Catch cans are great, they definitely eliminate the blow by, however take caution in colder temps.
I live in Colorado and my catch can freezes come winter time. The idea is to check it frequently, and always avoid idling the truck.🤙🏼
Install next the radiator? Maybe that way it would thaw when you drive.
you still have two lines one from each valve cover going to the intake before the throttle body, you haven't fully solved the issue. you should probably bridge those two valve cover lines together , and also run them into a catch can and then run an out line from the catch can to pre throttle body. Reason being , when you only have a line going from PCV to the manifold , the manifold pressure drops under heavy throttle applications at the same time under heavy throttle crankcase pressure increases , the only way you will still have a vacuum is by running a line before the throttle body.
You are correct. They actually sell a catch can with an additional port so that you can account for WOT. This requires adding a bung which I didn't want to do. This system catches enough for my needs.
Your right I have watched this video and many others concerning PCV and catch cans and they are not consistent on there installation. On this vid his new system is not drawing air (vacuum) from the throttle intake or plenum, the hose is hooked up to the block valley plate not the Air intake, Press yes but not a vacuum. Im sure there will be press build up from the block , but is that the best way to route ?
@@TheSundaeDrive ,
Excellent catch can DIY install. 👍 Does this fit on a 2018-2020 Camaro ZL1 ?
@@williamhorvat8224 you'll just need a bracket that works. If you check on elites site they probably have one designed for your car. I know they did for the 5th gens
Suggest a drain petcock in the bottom for easier draining.
They tend to get clogged in my experience because of the condensation you get water mixing with the dirty oil and turning into kind of a sludge at the bottom. Have to wipe it out with a towel usually.
-- Honest question: Wouldn't it be simpler to just run an open hose off the head and let all that drool onto ground, and seal the manifold side of the PCV system?
I put one on my Silverado and it works great!!!!
Yes they do!
what size hose?
@@ZeroGoodGames I believe it was 3/8 ,id
Installed an Elite RX with clean side separator on my 17 High Country 6.2L since new. You wouldn't believe the crap that's in the can after 5000kms. Mixture of water, oil and sludge
Same on mine! Very glad I installed one. I think the water comes from condesation building up on the catch can from the temperature gradient differences in the winter with how cold the can is in comparison to the oil vapors.
The Sundae Drive Great answer and makes total sense when I think about it.
Yup. I was a little concerned when I first saw it too but then I thought about it a bit more and realized that was probably what was going on
The Sundae Drive Thank you let me know how it works for you. Also I use Amsoil Signature Series oil and filter and there PI treatment every 5000kms
I'm using mobil 1 extended performance and the mobile 1 filter. I have another video on how much mine captured. If you search through the videos you'll find it. It is under my 2014 Silverado playlist
Lay the hose out in the sun to warm it up on a hot day, slips right in the fitting. I always turn my hoses with the writing down or out of view. Not too crazy about blocking the dipstick or oil cap, but I am picky!
Nice, clean install. My only question is do you think it's too close to the exhaust manifold and the heat would affect it? Thanks
Thanks! I have ran this for well over a year and 40K miles with zero issues so I think it is far enough away
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks for getting back to me so soon!!
You got it! Best of luck!
I would think farther from heat would keep the can cooler and let the water and oil vapors condense.
That's not a bad point. Still, it should be much cooler than the rest of the system so the oil and water should condense fairly well. It definitely catches a lot that is for sure. I just liked how clean the install was in this location.
No need for AN fittings on a vacuum line. I got a Air Oil Separator from Moroso for $144.00. Aluminum, brass fittings, drain valve, and stainless steel mounting brackets.
+rudedogii Correct. It Is Simply For looks
Good presentation. The music is annoying and distracting. It's a challenge to mute the video and read cc while watching the install. Thanks for the presentation.
Nice.. thanks for sharing
No problem! Hope it helps
I don’t think you can anodize Brass
I believe the fittings are Aluminum
I don't have the blow by anymore I had them update my Pistons and rings with the latest update in their oil consumption bulletin it doesn't smoke when I floor it no more and it doesn't use a drop of oil I am 30,000 plus miles since they rebuild it not a problem
Which bulletin is that??
There is one for 14 through 16 I believe it was for oil consumption I was using 3 quarts in a thousand miles I was using, My dealer didn't oil consumption test and found out that I needed new pistons and rings and they have an update in the parts they rebuilt the engine in the truck it took them 20 hours and I want to say they told me warranty paid cuz I had my powertrain warranty still $5,000 to do it
Awesome video! I am looking to add an E2000 series can to my 2018 Silverado 5.3. I am curious at how often are you having to empty the can? And with the oil collected, I am assuming you need to check your current oil levels and add back fresh oil to compensate for what is now waste oil?
Great job with the presentation! I own a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD gasser w/6.0L Vortec engine. This engine employs "Sequential Fuel Injection" compared to the 5.3L and 6.2L V8 EcoTec engines that use Direct Fuel Injection. I'm wondering whether my truck would benefit from a catch can. Any thoughts?
Thanks! And yes it would, that is just a different form of direct injection
Thanks for the video sir, I just copied you and bought the same one. Question though, did you slide the hose over the first bump, or all the way over where the original hose snapped onto? I'm having a hard time sliding all the way down to base. This is the engine side of the hoses I'm talking about. Thanks again sir!
Glad the video helped! Not all the way over the original location but up to that point. I went out and double checked just to make sure :)
After installing the catch can, do you find you hear lots of air noise coming out of the crankcase into the can? It sounds like a vacuum leak. I don’t think it’s leaking, it just makes a lot of air noise which is fooling me for a bit of a rough idle.
Good video once again!!!!! New subscriber!!!!!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Did they include a gasket fir the can? They sent me a rubber ring and the thing doesn't even fit it lol
wow! good installation but i notice the AN fittings are inferior to the barbed fittings. That's not how real fittings work. I need one for my truck!
Thanks for the feedback! I have a lot of videos for my truck coming! I have not had a problem with the AN fittings and I've been running this setup for about 8 months. They are a little hard to install the hose into but they look significantly better than barbed fittings.
Real AN fittings are far superior to barbed fittings. AN fittings are the standard for any aircraft or helicopter fitting.
I installed mine about 1,000 miles ago, and went to check it and had maybe only a spoonful. 2018 Sierra 6.2 with afm delete from 500 miles. Current miles is 26k, could it just not be using much oil. I also did the clean side separator as well.
That seems right. You won't collect a ton over a 1000 miles unless there is something wrong.
If im running a vaccum pump delete , would I install a T tap from crackcase or into top pcv ?
When you installed it , did your oil gauge fluctuate when your driving ?
What do you use to clean your engine?
I just use a fuel system cleaner occasionally that is about it although I do plan to walnut blast.
Just curious wouldn't you want to route the lines coming off the valve covers to the catch can too?
Not necessary. I capture about 1 quart every 10K miles with the setup. Any other vapor is minimal at best
awesome thanks man just curious why you left them still running to the intake i'm getting ready to do mine when i swap out my intake manifold for the 6.2 and 6.2 tbody i'll probably just either cap em off or pipe them together i'd like to cut out as much as i can from going to the intake since there isn't really any easy way to clean the valves
Instead of installing a catch can, could I just block off those ports? I live in Florida. We don’t care about emissions.
Nice tutorial video bro, I think I like your installation best, on the brake booster bolt! My question is, does the catch can help with rough engine idling? I have a 2015 Silverado crew cab 5.3 v8, and just a couple of months ago my engine started to have a rough idle, even after I had an oil change done by the dealer, I mentioned the idle problem to the service men and their reply was to have a chemical flush that would cost me an additional $300.00. In your opinion what would you recommend if you where in my shoes? Thanks in advance for your reply!!
Thanks! Glad it helped you out! How many miles are on it? Has it thrown any codes or are there any pending codes?
@The Sundae Drive, I appreciate your quick response, I don't drive it much except to work, and maybe short trips on weekends with my wife. It has 26,600 miles, It threw up one code last year for a misfire code, and that was when I took it to the dealer, and they informed me that cylinder 4 spark plug wire came loose and as for any pending codes, there are none. I take it the dealer for regular routine maintenance, and always get a clean bill of engine performance, but it could run better in my opinion. Thanks again for your help! ;-)
I would check for pending codes. These trucks are known to have the high pressure fuel pump go bad which can cause a rough idle. Mine just went bad and I had idling issues.
@The Sundae Drive, Thanks a lot bro, gonna pull out my handheld scan tool and see what happens, I have an appointment to take her back to the dealer and trouble shoot this issue, while giving them a piece of my mind! I greatly appreciate your advice, and look forward to learning more things about my vehicle through your videos! Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@The Sundae Drive, there are no codes, but my tool does not allow me to do a live run scan, but maybe the dealer can find something. Did your truck have about the same mileage or more? When I find out what the problem was, I will most definitely post it on your page, Thanks for your help!!!
So we’re you put the catch can won’t it fill up faster.
can I do this on a 2008 gmc Sierra 5.3 flexfuel
Yes you can! Exact mounting and placement may be a little different but it will be very similar. Best of luck!
What is that neat tool you used for the hose clamps called?
Here you go: Hose Clamp Plier amzn.to/2Ek4fF2
@@TheSundaeDrive thanks man! Love your videos everything is so easy to follow and you're very knowledgeable. I'm sure you've helped save people thousands of dollars 🤙
@@Billy-hx3zi thanks for that! I hope so!
Vice grips lol
I have a engine light on now after install?
Check all your connections. I've had no problems. Either a loose hose or maybe you forgot to reconnect the MAF sensor?
@@TheSundaeDrive it must be the clamps. I could slide the hose into the crank and other spot with the clamp on the end.
Is the hose supposed to but up against the flange that's slightly larger than the tube, or go over that ?
I'm gonna get some regulars hose clamps I think
Send me an email to cliff@thesundaedrive.com and I'll send you some pics of mine
@@TheSundaeDrive just wrote you. I used the clamps that came with the kit
they offer a check valve as an option for these trucks. thoughts if its worth it or benefits?
Only if you forget to empty yours. Definetely get the larger E2 over the standard size.
Does this void warranty?
It should not affect your warranty. But, your warranty can vary a lot based upon the dealer. They would have to trace an issue directly to the catch can to void any warranty. It is super easy to remove tho and it could not be detected that it was installed. You can check with your dealer to be sure
What size hose did you use
Not sure off-hand, just whatever was included with the kit. Elite would be able to answer that tho or might have it listed in the description of the part
Would it work on the 2.8 diesel on a 16 canyon. Plus would it void the warranty ✌️👍🇨🇦
Honestly, I am unsure. Diesel motors operate under much higher compression rates and having never owned a diesel I am leery to point you one way or the other. I would reach out to elite engineering directly and let us know what they say. Best of luck!
@G K, Yes, I asked my dealership about installing an Oil Catch Can, and they told me it would void the warranty on my engine and transmission.
On a diesel or a gas motor?
The nice thing about a catch can is it can be quickly removed before trips to the dealer and they will be none the wiser 👍😉
@The Sundae Drive, Well I am specifically referring to a (gas) engine, because I questioned the serviceman at the dealership I purchased my truck from, I told him." I would like to install a Oil catch can to prevent carbon buildup in my engine", and his reply was "it would void the warranty on my drivetrain", so I can only guess that it would apply to diesel engines also! If anything, I believe it is a scam to milk more money out of the car consumers, so that way the average (DIY) guy can't perform any maintenance on their vehicles, we will have to consort the dealership for any hick-up our cars and trucks may experience. This is just my opinion!!!
what size hoses?
I m not 100% positive, I used what was included in the kit.
So the hose coming by from the valley cover goes to the taller inlet correct??
I need to know this as well. Website is no help.
Sorry for the delay, the center (taller) inlet goes to the throttle body area and the outside (shorter) outlet goes to the valley
I think Dalton Micheals has a good point,
UPR Products makes a better catch can for this truck
What makes it better?
@@TheSundaeDrive it's a complete plug-and-play design and covers the valve covers going into the air box. As well as the PCV system
I'll check it out. Thanks. How is the build quality?
@@TheSundaeDrive good quality Billet aluminum has a 4 chamber diffuser system and everything is plug-and-play fittings clicks right into the OEM parts no push lock. They just uploaded a video a few days ago. Doing an install
I'll check it out! Thanks for the tip!
Do you have a updated link for the catch can,I tried using it but it's not working or it was changed after posting
If you scroll down in the description there is a link to the Elite Engineering Site that still works :) the top two links to articles about catch can function and benefits I just realized aren't working tho so thank you for catching that.
So question: I have a 2012 Sierra 5.3 and it consumes oil. I was told it’s due to the valve cover design and location of the PCV. Is that correct because it’s consumed oil since new? Will this help in cutting back all that oil being sucked into the inttake.
It will definetely help with that! That is the main purpose of a catch can.
the pvc system there is an upgraded valve cover with a newer designed pvc port but that is only part of the problem. the other part is these engines are known for oil fouling plugs and other issues due to AFM VLOM. to truly fix it is to replace the AFM lifters and the VLOM.
@@TheSundaeDrive. No,,,the catch can will not help with oil consumption, it will simply stop it from going back into the engine.
why do you have to pay $$$ for a catch can? Wouldn't a remote oil filter in the same spot work just as well?
Think of a catch can as a remote oil filter - but you’re not filtering, you’re disposing the “contaminated” oil/water/gunk.
Does the catch can get in the way of the oil dipstick? Looks to me like it is.....
Nope! I haven't had any issues checking my oil.
With 50K on the truck I'd sure like to see your intake valves BEFORE the catch can install. Then after you run it for a few thousand miles take another shot of your valves to see the difference.
@@seanfrank4158 true. I didn't want to tear the motor down that far when doing the install but I'm getting ready to take the motor apart to delete the AFM system and I will be sure to film a catch can update video with the motor apart and see how it all looks.
Nice. I'm really looking forward to that. I just bought a '16 GMC Sierra 1500 with only 21000 kilometers (13000 miles) on it and I'm just learning a bit about these DI engines. I think these catch cans offer up a little bit of peace of mind and I'll likely be installing one on my 5.3 soon.
@@seanfrank4158 agreed! I'll be doing a full video guide on the AFM delete as well. That will hopefully be up and edited by the end of the year. Catch can video will be up sooner.
Does this void the warranty on the vehicle?
Technically, no mod is allowed to void a warranty unless they can prove the modification caused an issue. However, I. Practice, different dealers don't follow that rule. If in doubt. Just remove the catch can before taking it in for service. 5 minutes to uninstall and reinstall.
I just checked my 2015 Escalade 6.2, they change the in/out port to front very close.
Oh that's interesting. Do the 6.2 is configured a little differently?
@@TheSundaeDrive ua-cam.com/video/QdWftj-LaaU/v-deo.html this is a 6.2L
How does adding catch can effect warranty?
I do not think that it would. It is a dealer by dealer question tho. If you are concerned that it could, simply remove it and reinstall the factory connections. It is a 10 minute job and they would have no way of detecting that you had a can installed.
what is the clean side separator they offer? doesnt say what it does
The Clean-side solution addresses that small amount of oil vapor that enters the intake air charge upstream of the throttle body during WOT operation when the intake manifold vacuum is not present.
The Clean-side solution allows 100% MAF metered air entry while trapping the oil during wide open throttle operation and allowing it to return back into the valve cover as soon as the throttle is lifted.
Hope this helps!
The Sundae Drive thanks. they gave this as optional so i guess i’ll want this then. Thx again
They changed the 5.3 alot my 2010 the alternator is on the drivers side and my water hose inlet is n the passanger side and pcv hose is in passanger side
I gotcha. Interesting that that much changed on these motors
@@TheSundaeDrive hi i want to buy that exact catch can for my 2015 silverado...so i was wondering where didi get it and what are the specofications...thanks
@@charitoledesma I believe the link for the catch can is down in the description of the video but it is any E2 catch can by elite engineering and I purchased it on their website
@@TheSundaeDrive thanks for the response
So no need for a can on a 07 GMC Sierra 5.3L ?
I put a catch can on every one of my vehicle's and will continue to do so but I also keep my vehicle's for a very long time so any bit of preventative maintenance or upgrades I can do it a plus to me (within reason of course lol)
What size of hose is this thanks
3/8" I believe. That is the size listed on Elite Engineering's website.
“Go ahead” used 73 times!
Lol did you actually count? I need to get more creative with my word usage lol
Why don't vehicles come with this?
Extra money and it's not necessary for the vehicle to run. They don't make them to last hundred of thousands of miles.
Nice background music. Not.
I dont want to have to monitor this to empty when full, has anyone added a passive drain outlet. At the bottom of the cannister
Should be easy to do since it it aluminum. Just thread it. It might accumulate oil all over the stuff directly under the catch can though.
Kinda look like that dude Paul from Kentucky on 90 Day Fiancé
😂😂
Kinda does but way smarter. Guy from 90 day total idiot.
😂😂😂😂😏
Have you noticed any hissing sounds coming from the hoses since the installation? I checked both the hoses and none have any tears or holes and I don’t know what to do next? Any suggestions
I have the same setup in my camaro and it hisses as well. It is completely normal. Trying to track it down on my camaro drove me a little nuts at first but after inspecting everything I am pretty confident it is just the sound of the air moving through the catch can and the lines. I do not believe it is anything to be concerned with.
The Sundae Drive alright cool it was driving me crazy too thanks for the reply🤙🏽
Mine does it on both installments I did. One on my GMC Sierra and the other on my Chevrolet Traverse.
Chris Gutzman alright cool I already got used to the noise so I don’t even hear it anymore
I had he same issue, noticed that the original hose is only 50 PSI and would also suck in and made the hissing noise. All I did was replace them with a stronger PSI rating I used 300 and my hoses don’t hiss or suck in no more
People need to stop saying it's all oil
? You talking about what it catches? There's condensation in there too for sure. Or are you referring to something else?
@@TheSundaeDrive im saying people always say it's mostly oil it catches
I gotcha. It definitely catches some oil and it depends on the time of year how much condensation builds up inside
Go ahead and... 🤣
Lol yeah. Too many times.
Not necessary. It’s the old “if you build it” suckers will buy it.
For direct injection motors unfortunately we disagree, it’s important because emissions regulations require the crankcase to vent back into the intake.
Everyone knows it would be better to vent the crankcase to the atmosphere but that’s illegal and this is just a cheap solution by automakers without any regard for oil residue build up on the valves
The Sundae Drive I will agree. What you are concerned about is less of a problem than you think.
Where I live and what the temps here are, winter for 4-5 months. It will cause more problems than provide any positive solutions.
Always wonder why people put these on you absolutely do not need one.
Terrible.
We know :(
What is,?
Lol I have no idea. Just agreeing with the customer
I do have a chev Silverado 2014 . 4.3 L v 6. So where can I buy the right parts from my vehicle..thank you.
We purchased ours from elite engineering. You just may need different length lines that I did but the mounting should be the same