How to Make and Fit a Hammer Handle
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2015
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A tutorial video detailing how to effectively custom make a hammer handle to fit your hammer!
Find out more: www.blacksmithingtools.co.uk
Nice video! One point I never see mentioned is the way the grain of the wood is oriented to the head. You have the wood grain running almost 90 degrees to the face of the hammer. An old carpenter pointed out to me that when that happens you have a higher chance of the wood splitting. The grain should run parallel to the cheeks of the hammer.
I may be misunderstanding but it sounds like the grain would basically be running sideways? I'm quite sure that would make a very weak handle. I had the grain in a wedge running sideways and when I tried to drive it, it split apart. I'm no expert though!
I've been very curious to know how this is done. Thank you for enlightening me! I have a couple hammer heads without handles and I'm looking forward to giving it a go
I have access to some good cedar branches that's dried. Would that work ok
Very interestedly put together and thoroughly enjoyed the easy flow to doing this job. Perfect!!
This appeared in my home feed...Your vids and editing have come along so so far!!!😃
Thanks for the tip about wedge,that was really helpful and great video Alec!
Thrilled to be of help Sir! :)
Having the drift used to make the hammer certainly helps! Great video.
Good bit there fellow smith. Appreciate youMentioning Daniel Steele and Brian B. You three are Great inspiration for even unsolder smiths. Thank you!
Alec, it's really nice to know there is someone else in the world who knows what a "kerf" is!
Nice work. I'm looking at buying that sander off eBay looks good. Another uk channel 👍🏼 subbed
After having watched several of your more recent videos, I thought I'd check out something older. Your current videos are so much better in terms of editing and engagement. Good job on making progress and putting your name out there across UA-cam.
awesome work Alec. im making a (gas) forge, wondering what your set up looks like. i could definitely use some pointer, expecially on the burners.
Very good video. this is one of those things that many don't know about. Especially fitting and wedges and the why of how it's done.
Thank you sir! I appreciate the comment! :)
such great production in your vids! :)
All I really need is a decent sander, and a better vice. I'm novice, but man! You, John, Roy, Thak, are amazing. Thank you for giving me that push. I literally just put the handle on my first forged hammer!
well done and straightforward, thanks
Thank you sir!
Cheers Al, knew you would have done a video for me 👊😁
An impressive video, I just given this onto a colleague who was doing a little bit evaluation on this. And he actually bought me breakfast because I discovered it for him.. smile. So let me reword that: Thnx for the deal with! But yeah Thnkx for spending the time to debate this, I really feel strongly about it and love studying extra on this topic. If attainable, as you turn out to be expertise, would you mind updating your youtube channel with extra details? Its extremely helpful for me. Massive thumb up for this video publish!
Fantastic! Cheers mate!
great video alec! cheers from Chile!
+Javier Crisosto Thank you Javier! :)
I'm saving up for one of your hammers. Good work m8
WEHOO! Thank you sir! I look forward to making you a hammer! :)
Alec... Nice! I really like your attention to detail and the thorough explanations. Nice camera work too. :-)
Questions for you (maybe it would make for a good video). I am wondering about the chimney you use on your coal forge.
1) What diameter pipe are you using?
2) Is it galvanized or stainless steel?
3) How far above the firepot does it sit?
4) How far above the roof line did you make it?
5) How well does it draw.. smokey on start up?
6) What did you use for a cap on it?
7) Is it hot to the touch when your forge is burning?
Thanks for the video..
Shad
+shadowcastre
12" galvanised spiral air ducting
14" above firepot
its about 3' above the roof
It doesn't draw as well as a super sucker but is absolutely more than adequate for a coke forge!
a roof cowl i had laying around!
yes it is hot to the touch!
Thank you for the questions and nice words :)
Thanks..
For those who came here for the same reason I did, he starts explaining and working on the kerf at almost exactly 2:30. I've learned that the kerf should be as narrow as is practical, which was the only piece of information I needed. You'd expect the 10,000 forums and articles on the subject of handles to mention that, but trust Alec to be the competent craftsman who thinks it might be important.
Also, @Alec Steele- why not use a coping saw for the job? Those blades are even thinner than hacksaw blades.
Hey I recommend buffing handles after charring then oil it leaves a nice finish and it doesn't blister your hands
burnish with another piece of wood....no oil.....just plain or burned
Hello, Alec. Which woods do you use on hammer handles?
very nice video! what was the Lenth of your handel? and do you change it depending on the weight of your hammer? also am terrible in inches...What's the stock in mm.
thanks and keep up the good work!
Hey Alec, thank you for the video. You always explain things in a concise yet thorough manner. I like how you stick to the facts without trying to push around all the voodoo BS crap that too many people get caught up on instead of learning a good foundation. Everything we do should make sense-I can tell you think that way, and it is nice. Cheers.
Hey Alec love your work going to make a hammer will a truck axle work it should harden nicely
+Danny Halsey truck axle will work great! It should be similar steel to 4140/4340
how does one go about radiusing the inside edge? thanks!
NICE JOB
Thank you sir!!!
Awesome video! :-)
Awesome 👍
Nice video Alec! What type of oil are you using and for what purpose?
Hey Perry! I am using vegetable oil as it is what I Have. The oil lubricates it so I can drive the wood in very far and get enough friction in the eye! It sounds counter intuitive! It also helps keep the wood in good shape and be less susceptible to loosening in different climates!
Thank YHVH you don't voiceover often, your energy and enthusiasm doesn't show up like it does when you're talking during filming, even if you do have to yell through your grinding mask!!!
Would dried cedar make a decent handle ? Thank you sir
What kind of sandpaper did you use on your belt?
I will again suggest updating these tutorial videos with your new fandangled cameras and vastly increased production value. Great work my friend.
What size/dimensions did you cut your original blank?
Nice! What type of oil do you use to apply to the edge, as well as applying to the charred handle as you mentioned. Is there a video or somewhere where I can find how to make the steel wedges? Thanks
You can use any oil you like that is safe for the skin! I use vegetable oil! there sadly is no wedge video yet!
Ok thanks. So the wedge is only a small taper and how do you make the cut in the center that I cave seen some have? I thought you said a hot cut, but I'm Not sure how that will work.
Thanks
I made a handle too but did not use Hickory and caused problems
How long should a handle be Alec???
Nice.
Thinks I'll send pics when I get done I've done a lot of blacksmithing first hammer made all of my tongs
+Danny Halsey awesome!
How can I char the handle if I don't have a blowtorch? And what kind of oil should I use after charting it?
*charring it
if you want too save your belts try using a belt cleaner they are pretty much a rubber block that unclogs the grit. I got one on amazon and love it.
+978mikeyg I appreciate the comment! I have heard about them but have never tried! I will see if I can give them to a go!
+Alec Steele Great work by the way!! The handle looks awesome charred gonna have to try it that sometime!
Hi Alec I've bought the rubber block thinking it was going to be a waste of money, the thing would get eaten in 10 seconds! but i was very impressed not only did it not wear much at all but gave new life to my belts, even old ones id thought of chucking out were revived lol . love your videos keep up the good work!!
Cool
6:15 with oil 😂
Noticed that clip spliced in. Looked for the comment, glad it was here! Good ear mate!
I’m cracking up over here!
Legit question, Steele mentions the belt clogging up on the wood. I don't own such a belt sander and was under the impression that you could clean out all types of sandpaper, is this not so for this type of sanding belts?
Nice edit at 6:10 LMAO!!!!!!!
new drinking game:
1: binge an hour's worth of Alec Steel vids
2: take a shot every time he mentions Brian Brazil.
3: get super drunk.
4. .... alcohol poisoning, probably??
5. focus on that and on getting your stomach pumped and on your impending hangover and hospital visit instead of on the mess your life has devolved into.
6. Rinse and repeat.
+cVictori Pahahahaha!!!😂😂😂😂
How do you get a handle off of you need to? Doesn't seem possible to get the wedge out...
Good explanation, but a bit more could be added about the timber... You want the end grain lines to run parallel to the cheeks (not the face) to maximize strength. Or another good method is to make it from a branch, with concentric end grain. It also helps to drill a hole to establish the bottom of you rip cut for the wedge, and then saw down to it. Harder to split it with that radius or "buttresses" from the hole. And, ideally there should be no significant grain runout (lines out of parallel), with the handles centerlines. As for shaping, a draw knife or carving knife is just as efficient as belt sander (if you're not making them all day), and has the bonus of leaving nice facets and a polished surface. And a rasp and file work wonders in any areas with difficult grain, and for final trimming of the tenon. Oh, and a wooden wedge works well (if you use a dense, but coarse grained, wood and know how align the grain properly, another subject), and can easily be drilled out and levered free, allowing reuse or disassembly.
Someone is full of themselves...
one tip, instead of resting the hammer on an anvil and driving in the handle like a pile driver. Put the hammer head on with hand tightness, then hold it off of any hard surfaces. Hold the hammer head facing the ground and strike the bottom of the handle. It'll drive the handle deep into the head and help you get a really tight solid fit.
I didn't hear you mention grain orientation. Which helps pevent splitting. Great videos though.
you need a Japanese pull saw
Whoa!! looking back! Lol
Can you make a New vídeo about this Topic, explain How to proper mesure proporcionali to every person
Japanese pull saw might be finer than a hack saw
6:10 With oil xD
why do we make the eye tapered, and not the same size?
So that the handle is able to be compressed into the eye from one direction, and so that a wedge can be fitted from the other, creating a mechanical obstruction for the head to not come off!
Ah that makes sense, only problem is that it seems difficult to make the drift the correct size and taper. Any tips?
Thanks and keep up the great work!
A Japanese style pull saw will make a perfectly straight cut, smoothly and easily.the saw's teeth have no set to them, so the kerf will be even more precise. (Even the big box stores usually carry some version of so pull saw.) Cheers!
Would you recommend the pull saw over a coping saw?
@@broderickelliott8527 A pull saw for straight precise cuts, and a coping saw for curves.
No draw knife?
spoke shave works well
A drawknife perhaps, that should work
Nice job Alec , you really need to start looking after your hands though . Barrier cream is cheap as chips and dermatitis is a bitch . I have 25-30 yrs working in scrap yards and learnt the hard way..... just washing your hands between jobs makes a big difference .
Have you thought of a coping saw instead of a hacksaw?
you should watch Wranglerstar channel on making handles...and he should watch yours on blacksmithing haha
now you only need to do it another 70 times
8m not bad with hammers but making a drift to make a hammer that excepts a store baught handle I'm not sure .thought about drifting threw an existing head
Your voice was so much deeper back then lol
Hey everyone, has anyone out there used a maple handle? I have a background in forestry and a friend working in the baseball industry produces 50% of his bats in maple. The grain orientation for strength is opposite of your standard handle (hickory) so l wonder if anyone has handled maple with that grain orientation? Granted, baseball players may be using maple for its rebound characteristics rather than its longevity!!$
is there any reason why you cant weld a metal hsndle on instead?
Honestly, my stock is always the wrong shape. I never have what i need, lol. I have 1.5" by 1.5" by 1' sections of walnut, but god i'd have to remove a 1 foot slab of half inch. I hate wasting material, since i am prone to making stupid mistakes, so i always end up fucking up large bits and having to redo things. I tried making a desk, and it ended up with a 1 inch warp in it. ONE INCH???? LIKE WHYYYY, I HAVE TO UNDO ALL THE SCREWS, PLANE THE SURFACES, MOCK GLUE IT UP, AND THEN REDRILL SCREW HOLES FOR IT
New Alec is much smoother and preferable
with oil!!
thinner neck = less vibration.....burnish bare with another handle....just suggesting....nice work either way....btw....its pronounced shampfer.....nice tip with the hacksaw.
It's good to see the woodprix has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
I check a lot of woodworking handbooks. These one from woodprix are the best.
Seems you need a band saw in your shop. It will speed up the removal of excess material from handle blanks and save your abrasives. I hope you are using hickory for your handle material.
very nice video! what was the Lenth of your handel? and do you change it depending on the weight of your hammer? also am terrible in inches...What's the stock in mm.
thanks and keep up the good work!