Thank you for your video. I am engraving my daughters sweet 16 invitations and the engraving was so light, I couldnt read it and also not cutting deep enough plus burning the edges too much. Im going to give it another try. Im a newbie
Ok so, my issue is that i have a 20 0z black stainless yeti tumbler and settings are at 100 p, 70-80 s. The first line of engravements come out perfect but the bottom words set on the bottom are darkened. Look like a Carmel color? What is causing this. All settings are confirmed before framing and starting.
does the depth of cut and color chart at the end basically work for any material the same? such as painted tile compared to canvas or wood? only been at this about 1 week. thanks.
Hi! If I understand your question, yes. When you reduce your speed, true laser spends more time in any given area, therefore burning more and making it darker. And if power is increased, the amount of burning increases as well, also making it darker. Your average home laser doesn’t cut tile very deeply and won’t generally leave color on tile. But the depth will increase - but far more shallow overall than on wood or acrylic. If you haven’t already, join us in our Facebook group. Lots of great people there and we’d love to help you learn and grow. Https://facebook.com/groups/bigbluelaserdesigns/
What’s better for the laser? Having it a Lower setting for longer or having it at a higher setting for less time? Just trying to get the most out of my laser before it will need replacing. Cheers
I’ve heard that running at full power all the time will wear out a laser faster, but I’ve had lasers for 5+ years now and have found that the time saved running at higher power vs going lower power/slower is worth it to me. *If* it wears out the tube, I’ve made more than enough money with the time saved to buy the tube many times over.
I don’t understand your question, I don’t think. The manufacturer will tell you what the power is. And you can always look it up on their website using the model number if you don’t know.
Mark, you should do a P2 settings guide for substrates. I would pay for that. Listing the substrate and the setting you use. I know it would be a START but that's what scares most people for sure.
Happy to! I wouldn’t sell it, of course. It would be free. So far I’ve used the settings they have built in and they work great. I haven’t needed anything outside of that list yet.
Hi! Yes. What are you clicking after changing? If you’re clicking the back arrow, it won’t save it. Make your changes and click anywhere else outside the box.
Thank you! this really helped, I'm new to this and I'm starting to get a hang on it. Is this the same for engraving on acrylic, specifically clear acrylic, I have a 20w diode laser? Thanks for any advice!!
So recently I started playing with leatherette keychains and used my settings for leatherette but didn't take into consideration the size if the Keychain vs a tumbler or hat patch, and well it was a failure so I adjusted speed and power to get just right for the size of project, and we'll it kept failing to get thinner lines in the script (the whispy lines that some fancy looking scripts have ) and would not engrave them with out going way to deep on the main body of script. Any tips on how to get a good balance with thin and thicker lines on a graphic or font that you can't separate? The font I'm using is called "choppin script." My laser is a thunder nova 35 100w.
hi im engraving and in edges like it slow down and more power is apply, but in the middle it goes with speed and less power.. what is happening? hplz help
I am a newby on lasering. I laser Drinkware on a Boss 1630 , No issues lasering powder coated tumblers, but when I laser the leatherettes, lasering is very inconsistent. I will get 3 perfect then the next one will not laser properly and only laser 1/2 of the logo , we have narrowed it down to inconsistent leather and the tube maybe loosing power. I'm just confused why it will laser powder perfectly and not the leatherette. I was told to try different speed? sorry don't know how to change that and if it changes it for all of my saved logos. I don't know enough to do alot of changes. help don't want to spend alot of money on a new tube , if its not the issue.
I’d do some testing on some other material like some wood or MDF. Engrave several things on it to see what the results are. Are you using Lightburn or something else? I’m happy to help all I can. Feel free to message me at facebook.com/bigbluelaserdesigns or join my group at facebook.com/groups/bigbluelaserdesigns/ and post there. A bunch of us will jump in to try to help!
@@BigBlueLaserDesigns I don't know what lighburn is, I don't know enought to laser on anything else. a very beginner in this field, LOL I have a question, to lower the speed say its 25 do I go under 25? yes its a dumb question sorry thanks for answering me
Lightburn is a program that controls most lasers. If you’re not using Lightburn, then you’re using another program. Is it a proprietary Boss program of some sort? You can literally put another material in and use the same settings you use for the leather. Some 1/8” wood, for example. We don’t care if the settings are ideal. What we want to see is if the result is consistent across the engraving you do on it. Message me or post in my group and we will help you.
Lowering the speed under 25 would be typing in a number lower than 25. Have you made use of the training resources Boss provides on their website here? bosslaser.com/resources/
This has helped me immensely today! Thank you so much for this. I am new to using a laser and was not quite understanding what settings I needed to change to get the exact effect I am looking for. I totally appreciate that you put it in text along with describing it. Sometimes I need a visual like that for it to sink in!
I wish I found your video Day 2 of trying to learn my xTool laser as I'm a newbie. Someone finally took pity on me and provided a chart that's spot on with what you just covered. Great job!
I am still in the thinking mode as My Alpha will be here SOON and I am wanting to get good at inlays. "LIGHT-BULB" - As cut depth on the base needs to be dialed in, cutting the inlay portion is going to be tricky as when you use a backing tape, you want the wood inlay to cut, BUT, not the backing.... I am going to try the aluminum AC duct tape that will keep any intricate inlay pieces in place with the aluminum foil tape being a better laser "stopper" than relying on just a paper tape. As the AC tape is sticky as hell, maybe a layer or two of blue painters tape first, then the AC tape. You will still need to dial in the inlay cutting power/speed, but, by using the aluminum tape the cutting process will/should be more forgiving. OH, you were great in "National Treasure" :
Not sure I understand your questions about passes. If you use more than one pass, it’ll be a deeper cut. And you can always experiment with lower power and higher speed to not cut as deeply in a single pass and combine passes to equal what a single pass would normally be. Is that the direction you’re asking?
Thank you for your explanation (and all the others--you are so clear!). Assuming you're not at either extreme of power or speed, is there a preference for whether to adjust power or speed to change the depth or darkness?
I have a glowforge and just recently it has started what I call skipping when engraving. I am using the fonts available in glowforge and svgs I have lasered before and I am not getting clean lines, skipped areas in the fonts. Help plz
To troubleshoot we would need to have the file in question. You’re welcome to message me and we can try to work through what might be going on. Www.Facebook.Com/bigbluelaserdesigns
2 part question: 1. I’ve been playing around with settings for cutting some birch plywood 1/4” from HD, and notice that sometimes it won’t cut all the way through on all the pieces on my 12”x20” sheet I’ve cut. Settings are speed 130, full power. Would you suggest setting it up for another pass? 2. I’ve noticed a lot of char on the cut pieces I mentioned above, especially the outer edges and on the opposite side facing down on the crumb tray. I put masking paper on the cut side, but not on the side facing the crumb tray. Should I mask both sides?
Birch is quite often a pain to cut, so it’s not surprising that 130/full isn’t doing it all the time. Before I quit using Birch, I’d often be at 122-125/full, but that produced a much blacker edge, of course.
@@BigBlueLaserDesigns ok great. Since you’ve stopped using Birch, what are your top three materials that give you the least amount of trouble on the laser?
Thank you for your video. I am engraving my daughters sweet 16 invitations and the engraving was so light, I couldnt read it and also not cutting deep enough plus burning the edges too much. Im going to give it another try. Im a newbie
Happy to help if you need a hand. Feel free to message me on FB at facebook.com/bigbluelaserdesigns.
You have a great way of explaining things so they are easy to understand
I’m so glad I can help!
That was Awesome. Thank you for this Tip. Brand new to this and i needed an explanation about speed and power.
So glad I could help!
Thank-you sir, this was helpful to me today :D
great explanation
Thank you so much for this video!
Why do different fonts engrave differently on the same settings?!?! I’m going crazy trying to tweak it.
Ok so, my issue is that i have a 20 0z black stainless yeti tumbler and settings are at 100 p, 70-80 s. The first line of engravements come out perfect but the bottom words set on the bottom are darkened. Look like a Carmel color? What is causing this. All settings are confirmed before framing and starting.
does the depth of cut and color chart at the end basically work for any material the same? such as painted tile compared to canvas or wood? only been at this about 1 week. thanks.
Hi! If I understand your question, yes. When you reduce your speed, true laser spends more time in any given area, therefore burning more and making it darker. And if power is increased, the amount of burning increases as well, also making it darker.
Your average home laser doesn’t cut tile very deeply and won’t generally leave color on tile. But the depth will increase - but far more shallow overall than on wood or acrylic.
If you haven’t already, join us in our Facebook group. Lots of great people there and we’d love to help you learn and grow.
Https://facebook.com/groups/bigbluelaserdesigns/
Thank you. You answered my question on how to make engraving darker.
So I have a 5 W laser is the power is 90% max so does that mean I can go higher than 90% I’m new so I don’t know
What’s better for the laser? Having it a Lower setting for longer or having it at a higher setting for less time? Just trying to get the most out of my laser before it will need replacing. Cheers
I’ve heard that running at full power all the time will wear out a laser faster, but I’ve had lasers for 5+ years now and have found that the time saved running at higher power vs going lower power/slower is worth it to me. *If* it wears out the tube, I’ve made more than enough money with the time saved to buy the tube many times over.
you truly have the gift of being able to explain things in a very basic and understandable manner. Thanks for all you do for all of us learners!
My question is how do you determine the power of a laser? Is a number plus the word watts (20 watt laser), or 20 watt laser output power?
I don’t understand your question, I don’t think. The manufacturer will tell you what the power is. And you can always look it up on their website using the model number if you don’t know.
I have seen many videos but you have explained it in a simple and easy to understand. Thanks for your help.
Mark, you should do a P2 settings guide for substrates.
I would pay for that.
Listing the substrate and the setting you use.
I know it would be a START but that's what scares most people for sure.
Happy to! I wouldn’t sell it, of course. It would be free. So far I’ve used the settings they have built in and they work great. I haven’t needed anything outside of that list yet.
@@BigBlueLaserDesigns you rock
Just say “more shallow” 😉
Newbie here again. Any idea how to convert mm/m to mm/s regarding speed? (I'm assuming that's millimeter per minute v. millimeter per second.)
Each software should have that option built in. What are you using?
xTool Creative Space. I just found the answer: I divide the mm/m by 60 to convert to mm/s!
I am changing the settings for speed and precision but it is not saving it. Any thoughts?
Hi! Yes. What are you clicking after changing? If you’re clicking the back arrow, it won’t save it. Make your changes and click anywhere else outside the box.
WOW!!! Your explanation has made that so easy to understand. Thank you for taking the time to do these tutorials.
You’re welcome!
Thank you! this really helped, I'm new to this and I'm starting to get a hang on it. Is this the same for engraving on acrylic, specifically clear acrylic, I have a 20w diode laser? Thanks for any advice!!
Bro thank you so much I new to glowforge man thank you so much
May the Lord bless you and your family 💯🙏
Just sub
You are so welcome!
@@BigBlueLaserDesigns keep making videos bro you do a good job
So recently I started playing with leatherette keychains and used my settings for leatherette but didn't take into consideration the size if the Keychain vs a tumbler or hat patch, and well it was a failure so I adjusted speed and power to get just right for the size of project, and we'll it kept failing to get thinner lines in the script (the whispy lines that some fancy looking scripts have ) and would not engrave them with out going way to deep on the main body of script. Any tips on how to get a good balance with thin and thicker lines on a graphic or font that you can't separate? The font I'm using is called "choppin script." My laser is a thunder nova 35 100w.
hey, what this program called?
In the video I’m using the Glowforge website.
hi im engraving and in edges like it slow down and more power is apply, but in the middle it goes with speed and less power.. what is happening? hplz help
So if I were wanting a very dark but very shallow engraving, would a high power and high speed get me that ??
Thank you for explaining this.
So simple to the point thank you 🙏🏾 you’ve got a subscriber in this newbie! 👍🏾
I am a newby on lasering. I laser Drinkware on a Boss 1630 , No issues lasering powder coated tumblers, but when I laser the leatherettes, lasering is very inconsistent. I will get 3 perfect then the next one will not laser properly and only laser 1/2 of the logo , we have narrowed it down to inconsistent leather and the tube maybe loosing power. I'm just confused why it will laser powder perfectly and not the leatherette. I was told to try different speed? sorry don't know how to change that and if it changes it for all of my saved logos. I don't know enough to do alot of changes. help don't want to spend alot of money on a new tube , if its not the issue.
I’d do some testing on some other material like some wood or MDF. Engrave several things on it to see what the results are.
Are you using Lightburn or something else?
I’m happy to help all I can. Feel free to message me at facebook.com/bigbluelaserdesigns or join my group at facebook.com/groups/bigbluelaserdesigns/ and post there. A bunch of us will jump in to try to help!
@@BigBlueLaserDesigns I don't know what lighburn is, I don't know enought to laser on anything else. a very beginner in this field, LOL I have a question, to lower the speed say its 25 do I go under 25? yes its a dumb question sorry thanks for answering me
Lightburn is a program that controls most lasers. If you’re not using Lightburn, then you’re using another program. Is it a proprietary Boss program of some sort?
You can literally put another material in and use the same settings you use for the leather. Some 1/8” wood, for example. We don’t care if the settings are ideal. What we want to see is if the result is consistent across the engraving you do on it.
Message me or post in my group and we will help you.
Lowering the speed under 25 would be typing in a number lower than 25.
Have you made use of the training resources Boss provides on their website here?
bosslaser.com/resources/
@@BigBlueLaserDesigns thank you yes have been working with Boss Laser and checking and eliminating things to find out what's going on. thank you
This has helped me immensely today! Thank you so much for this. I am new to using a laser and was not quite understanding what settings I needed to change to get the exact effect I am looking for. I totally appreciate that you put it in text along with describing it. Sometimes I need a visual like that for it to sink in!
I am so glad I could help!
As a newbie I appreciate all of the guidance and help, thank you for making this so simple.
I just got the M1 xtool 10 w and you just saved me a ton of tears! Thank you!!!
I wish I found your video Day 2 of trying to learn my xTool laser as I'm a newbie. Someone finally took pity on me and provided a chart that's spot on with what you just covered. Great job!
Can you share the chart with me too?
I am still in the thinking mode as My Alpha will be here SOON and I am wanting to get good at inlays. "LIGHT-BULB" - As cut depth on the base needs to be dialed in, cutting the inlay portion is going to be tricky as when you use a backing tape, you want the wood inlay to cut, BUT, not the backing.... I am going to try the aluminum AC duct tape that will keep any intricate inlay pieces in place with the aluminum foil tape being a better laser "stopper" than relying on just a paper tape. As the AC tape is sticky as hell, maybe a layer or two of blue painters tape first, then the AC tape. You will still need to dial in the inlay cutting power/speed, but, by using the aluminum tape the cutting process will/should be more forgiving. OH, you were great in "National Treasure" :
Great Info... Can you explain.. the amount of passes? I've seen this setting on other videos... but not explained. Tks!
Not sure I understand your questions about passes.
If you use more than one pass, it’ll be a deeper cut. And you can always experiment with lower power and higher speed to not cut as deeply in a single pass and combine passes to equal what a single pass would normally be.
Is that the direction you’re asking?
very helpful, thank you!
Thank you for your explanation (and all the others--you are so clear!). Assuming you're not at either extreme of power or speed, is there a preference for whether to adjust power or speed to change the depth or darkness?
Nice and clear ! I wish i had a similar video for UV lasers
Yayee!!! This is so helpful, thank you so much
Thank you! So helpful and just what I needed! You explained it perfectly 🙌
So glad I could help!
Brilliant tutorial so easy to understand thank you . I don't have glowforge I have xtool M1 going to try some of the settings .
So glad it helped! The principles are the same for all lasers, so you’ll rock it now that you understand.
I am in my first week of using a laser xTool P2 and this really helped.
I’m so glad to hear that!
I have a glowforge and just recently it has started what I call skipping when engraving. I am using the fonts available in glowforge and svgs I have lasered before and I am not getting clean lines, skipped areas in the fonts. Help plz
To troubleshoot we would need to have the file in question. You’re welcome to message me and we can try to work through what might be going on. Www.Facebook.Com/bigbluelaserdesigns
@@BigBlueLaserDesigns tytyty so much and I did message you.
Thank you!
Thank you!
I love your tutorials. You so clear in explaining.
Thanks
2 part question:
1. I’ve been playing around with settings for cutting some birch plywood 1/4” from HD, and notice that sometimes it won’t cut all the way through on all the pieces on my 12”x20” sheet I’ve cut. Settings are speed 130, full power. Would you suggest setting it up for another pass?
2. I’ve noticed a lot of char on the cut pieces I mentioned above, especially the outer edges and on the opposite side facing down on the crumb tray. I put masking paper on the cut side, but not on the side facing the crumb tray. Should I mask both sides?
Birch is quite often a pain to cut, so it’s not surprising that 130/full isn’t doing it all the time. Before I quit using Birch, I’d often be at 122-125/full, but that produced a much blacker edge, of course.
When I mask, I always mask both sides. You’ll get flashback from the crumb tray on the back side, so the masking will catch that.
@@BigBlueLaserDesigns ok great. Since you’ve stopped using Birch, what are your top three materials that give you the least amount of trouble on the laser?
Thank you, just what I needed.
Im so glad I could help!
So excited to watch this. I need this info. Thanks so much
You're so welcome! Hope it helps! Message me at facebook.com/bigbluelaserdesigns or in my group if you need more help! --Mark