I liked the end where you gave a recap of the project. You explained how you would have like to have seen completed over how it was actually done. All the while you were very candid and aware that at the end of the day the customer wanted it their way and you provided what they wanted. That, sir, is a professional people should be proud to work with, well done!
For the last week I took my tub out and was trying to installed a shower. Am very grateful for your video that showed me what to do. Actually you were the only video that I had found in reference to me need. Thanks you sooooo much.
Thank you for that...actually there are a lot of videos on UA-cam on how to convert tub to shower, but not a lot where you have to suffer through 40 minutes of talking, LOL ! Thanks for your patience ;-)
My husband and I are getting prepared to update a 1973 bathroom. I have been doing the research and came upon your tutorial about the conversion (which is what we want to do). I was so impressed by your thorough explanation of each step of the process I called my husband and urged him to view it also. So many things to know. The part about cutting the small "X" for the drain was brilliant. You know your stuff and I am happy to have viewed it. We have subscribed and will take a look at the others you have done. I wish you were closer to Columbus, Ms. so you could do our update.
GREAT video. I want to do my own shower and this is exactly what I needed. Still kinda scared because I've never done one, but I think you will be my guide and mentor for my DIY shower. I will finish watching all your videos before I start. Thanks for your videos.
This is great!!!! I'm trying to decide if I should change a tub to a walk in shower in my small 1960's MB en suite and this has helped me a great deal to make that decision!!!!
Well let me tell ya - I'm in the middle of remodeling my bathroom and had no clue what to due with the cast iron tub. So I watched one of your videos on that subject, and got hooked on watching some of the others. I like your input and videos so consider me subscribed. Thanks for the help bro.
Thanks so much for your videos. There are quit a few out there, but none as detailed explanation to their methods are your videos. My shower is an exact duplicate as this one. I now feel comfortable with the work and necessary procedures.
Thank you for the informative video. The wife and I are in the process of starting a project like this and this video really helps me figure out all that needs to be done. I greatly appreciate your high standard shown in this video. Your tips and tricks will be used in my project. Once again, thank you very much!!!
It's all good. You do good work for sure. There's always room for improvements especially when there are new codes and technologies coming around the corner. Keep up the good work. Keep giving up good contractors a good name. Cheers!!!
Thank you for sharing your video's with us, they are very much appreciated. I love the way you work, it's so nice watching a job being done properly. When I go home I'm going to try and do my bathroom on my own, your video has given me inspiration. Once again, thank you xx
I am in process of pulling out our tub and putting the same thing in. I see you kept pretty much the drain in the same place where the tub was. I was thinking the drain has to be in the middle of the shower? I am glad I watched and it doesnt...that saves alot of work.
Nice video. I am currently working on a project identical to to this. Just wanted to add that cutting the pvc pipe below grade in a confined space is easily accomplished with mason string. Align the string with the pvc pipe, and keep it level by using a screw driver or some horizontal bar with a smooth surface so that at you cut the pvc pipe the string remains level, this is critical so that the cut of the pipe is level, smooth, not rough and uneven. This is a two person task as one person will need to be on their knees holding down the screw driver with their hands in the hole while the person stands directly above the hole and starts to slide the mason line back and forth to create the cutting action, Just a couple points on the mason line, it is very strong and does not break, it's the same stuff the brick layers use to create. Straight line. Secondly do not stop cutting once you begin otherwise the string may fuse to the pipe. Thirdly, long strokes will help so that the heat dissapates while cutting, otherwise you run the risk of melting the string into the pipe. With regard to setting the drain flange, the caulk is recommended by Oatey in their video, and I don't see how it can hurt, however, by not using it, I can see where water penetration is possible if the drain backs up and you're standing in ankle deep water in the shower. Additionally, I recommend that everyone test the weep holes so that you can be certain that the rubber liner has not obstructed the weep holes. I initially installed the liner and clamped together the drain, and then when I went to test weep holes, they would not drain. The cause was the rubber liner was not cut back to the circumference of the drain and obstructed the weep holes. To test, get a cup of water and a straw. Place a little water in the straw and put in the weep holes. You should see it drainimmediately into the drain. Once you do this, you'll understand the importance of the weep holes. Anyway I just wanted to add my experience of a couple of gotchas that might help someone out. With regard to using the red guard all the way to the drain, I can not see any reason why you would not red guard all the way to the drain, I'm sure it's not for cost, so what would be the downside of coating the entire surface.
Outstanding video. I told my wife and son when I'm done I'm going to email this guy and thank him. I really appreciate it. It helped so much. Our shower came out great and the glass will be delivered on Tuesday.
Great video - explained very well - wish you had included some of the tiling but I got the idea. I like it - nice work! Sounds like you need to invent a one piece preformed curb cover so you don't need to nail through the liner although the water stop paint likely works fine.
+NutmegThumper Thanks for the comment. Actually there are "foam" curbs out there, I think Kerdi has one...guess I'm old school, would rather build it and Redgard it, still waterproof but more sturdy.
+Kevin Smith I'm not into the "science" of the products, lots of opinions and forums that discuss ( and argue ) the points. My feel is water will never see ANY of the thinset so it doesn't matter. But I use Home Depots brand Versabond.
Good Instructional video. Thanks. You had said you didn't know what plumber was thinking sticking the capped copper pipes up. The capped copper pipes sticking up are water hammer arrestors.
Great video, we are getting ready to do this type of a project in our guest bath. Your video shows the amount of work and care it requires to do a good job. Wish your company was close. I would totally contract this project out to your company.
You should get yourself an inside cutter. It attaches to a drill and cuts from the inside out. Awesome tool. Just be careful to tighten your Chuck on your drill. Also, those fittings are 90's not 45's.
Great video for me because all things mention are what is in my bathroom; the space between tub and toilet, and you have the same tub drain system I'm having to deal with too. 1975 house on a slab/with the whole for the p- trap, and the wired mud walls that is tiled, however; I will only chip off the old shower tiles from the mud walls and after the tub removal, my plan is to even-up the missing walls were the tub was with 1/2" or 1/4" backer board then seal it up with TEC Skill Set Membrane (Redgard). So your video for me is all in all right on time for my project I already started. I'm also using your other video on "How to build a shower nook". Thanks and keep-up the good work and advise. I will recommend you and your company (videos included) You saved the day on that drain problem (p-trap) that brought me here to UA-cam.
this bathroom is about the same size as mine. thank you for the information. I will definitely be referencing this video when I start on my project In a few months
i watched a lot of videos doing this work and I like your techniques, especially how you wrap the corners of your liner. Your approach should be code. Keep up the good work. I wish you were in New York so that I could train under you. I wished you would have showed the details of you pouring the mortar and sand mix, slopping it to the drain. Anyway, you are on the money!
+William Russell Moore Thank you so much for the kind words, much appreciated ;-) I'll keep in mind the mud pouring process and make a video of that soon.
I'm changing my tub to a full shower. Every plumber that I've had over for an estimate on switching the drain has been outrageous in their pricing. And I swear, the floor is open and ready to go, there's nothing to do except cut off the tub drain, add the new upsize connecting pipe where one end is 1.5" and the other is 2", and install the new drain. Your video shows how to do it and it looks simple (well except you had to cut cement, and I don't). I wish I could attach a picture so you can see how easy these pipes are to get to. I think the job is too small for them and theyre trying to convince me that it's an "all day job", just to make a buck!! I'd do myself, but I'm leary of doing something wrong. Sigh . . . But thank you for showing how it's done! They can't fool me!
This small bathroom is a lot like mine. I was wanting to just make the whole thing shower like with toilet sink inside it. I'm just an old bachelor, and have an elderly mother who can't get in and out of the tub. It would make clean up a breeze. Toilet, shower, and sink could just be hosed down. This would be a great help because of her incontinence. I don't really know what to do about water proofing the toilet.
Thank you so much for posting this video. This is pretty close to exactly what I am facing. I appreciate that like me, you try to make a bulletproof installation. If you were Dallas based, I would simply hire you to do the work if you wanted it. I don't know who in Dallas I would trust with this, so at least for now, I am going to attempt it.
Nice job. Just not crazy about the tile lay out on the back wall. In one corner you start with a full 18 x18 and the adjacent corner looks like a 6 x18. Would have looked more symmetrical if each corner had a 12 x 18. Otherwise, great video, really informative.
1) do i have to do a pre slope? 2) would it be fine to use the dry pack for both the pre slope and the actual pan 3) do i need to make all side of the curb touch... or leave a gap between the three pieces of durock? fantastic video by the way... you're the only vid i found that shows it over a basement type floor. and the only one to explain what the heck to do with the curb . lol
1) Pre-slope is code now in a lot of areas 2) Yes...but for the pan, I don't, I feel better having a wetter texture. 3) It almost doesn't matter since the gap will be filled with thinset anyway, but I always Redgard my curb on all 3 sides, so it's a moot issue. Thanks for the kind words ! Much appreciated ;-)
good info.... I plan on having this done to our bathroom but wonder how much is a reasonable price for a job like this. Shower and tiled including td he floor
sorry but I have an issue with a few things. 1) transitioning a 2" drain to a 1.5" drain is against code and can risk drainage issues. 2) Covering any joints is troublesome to me, I usually lay down a floorboard one cement board and pour a new cement bed on top that way if they want to re do the shower for what ever reason they still have access to the drain. 3) The liner should be higher about 10-12" for added prevention of leaking on the inside of the shower. However good on ya for using PT wood and wrapping the liner all the way around the curb. Also good on ya for mentioning sloppy corners. A nice tight corner means less chance of water getting in. I like how you don't cut more than you need for the flange glad you mentioned that.
Thanks for the comment. 1) You're right that the drain line for the shower & p-trap should be 2'', past the trap it's ok to be 1 1/2'', but in this case it was nearly impossible to transition the trap ( under grade level ), but it does drain fine...and a low flow shower head insures no back-up issues. I personally stayed at this house & used that shower for over a week with no issues. Also code varies. 2) Great idea on the board idea, I guess someone will have lots of fun with a jackhammer in 20 years ! LOL ! 3) Code says liner should be a min 4-6inches above mudbed, I have 4'' here...would I want more ? Maybe, but I never go 10-12 as you suggest, I believe the 3 coats of Redgard will prevent my walls from ever seeing water, let alone the liner. And thanks for the compliments on the other issues. Sorry you had to suffer through 45 minutes of me talking, brave guy !!
dsfs Can you explain the alternative to covering up the drain hole with cement? Do you lay plywood on top of the slab, then cementboard, and attach the drain to a cutout in the plywood/cementboard? Does code allow that type of construction? I've only seen showers constructed with cement surrounding the drain.
Thanks for sharing this project and all the details I haven't heard from other videos (i.e. nailing the curb vs. glue). Seeing this really makes me re-think if I want to take on my DIY project, which it looks like a similarly aged home (1953). Is there a way to find out if there is concrete under the tub before I tear it out? I plan to replace the tile on the wall and floor regardless, will that reveal enough to know what's under the tub?
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but the capped lines look like homemade hammer stops to stop the pipes from banging when you close the water valves.
What an EXCELLENT well explained video!!!! Do you find any problems using the 2 inch drain on the reduced drain. Back in the day, I doubt most houses had big drains. We live in North Texas and are shopping for a plumber/remodeler to do exactly this type job. Can you give an estimate on what this type job would cost? We have discussed moving the drain more centered as you said. But in North Texas every house has foundation problems due to the clay soil and I don't really want to punch any un-necessary access points into the slab. But by far, your video is THE BEST!!! I like you explain the "pre-slope" process of the pan. I think it's important process to do! Thank you for posting!!!
+trailertrashtc You are not allowed to put a shower pan on an 1 1/2" drain anywhere in the United States let alone stack elbows like that. The trap has to be straight under the drain of the shower pan or that is what we call a running trap and is illegal and will cause problems.
+MrSturgy1 This job was done nearly 3 years ago...for friends of mine. From day one to today the shower has been used & never any problems as you say there will be. The trap and pipe is 1 1/2'' under the slab so changing it to 2'' is impossible. Water flow ( from when it was a tub ) is a LOT higher GPM then the new water saver head has now so there is less water going into drain, code or not it works. As to your statement " Trap needs to be directly under drain " is false, trap can be anywhere prior to transition to main. I'm allowing this one comment, the other two you posted are redundant and I don't like trolls on my channel.
MrSturgy1 you sir are incorrect. While in some cities possibility there may be a code for shower/tub drain size, all preexisting homes will have either-or and in this particular instance the house originally had a 1.5" drain that has served a tub being filled and then drained all at once and now has a new shower with an up to date shower valve and head that will only produce a fraction of the water that filling the tub did. And your comment about the P-trap is incorrect also. I actually took the time to look up the information before i ended up making a idiotic comment about something that i didnt know what I was talking about and only assumed i did. However... there is no code for the distance of the P-trap from the drain. In fact where im from in the Southeastern US, there isnt even a requirement to have one under a sink or tub/shower. Its purpose is only for oder retention and not actually required to be directly under the drain. The reason it's "usually" directly underneath is because its quite often 2-3 pieces and it makes it easy to get because its purpose doubles as a clean out. Having it a couple feet away from the sink or tub/shower makes no difference what so ever.
And also having it a couple feet away from the drain doesn't cause any problems as long as its positioned in an upright manner with the actual p below the level of the rest of the drain. Its not like the trap is half way across the yard or something. I could see a problem then but not in this case
Treated wood tends to twist and crack as it dries out causing tiles to crack. Use untreated 2x4's; however, if you are using untreated lumber on a slab, you need to isolate it from the slab to prevent moisture migration (use a moisture barrier between the lumber and the slab). In most locations, it is a code violation to install untreated lumber in direct contact with concrete because the moisture from the concrete will rot the lumber. That being said, I think a concrete curb is best.
Its true enough that PT wood does twist and warp. However... not once its nailed down flat on a floor three pieces thick and the nails/screews are placed that close together and also wrapped with two layers of Duraroc and mudded over with thinset. If you were attempting to use PT lumber to frame with in which case it only gets nailed/screewed roughly every 16" or so and with it only being used one stick at a time it will definitely try to crawl back to the woods. His curbs are built and prepped better than ive ever seen. Being a pro tile installer myself, i always build a 4"×5" form and pour my curbs. Even when on a wood foundation, i line the bottom of my form with 30lb felt and apply liquid nail underneath the felt before pouring and then once cured attach 1"×1" angle brackets to the floor inside the shower and on the inside of the curb which gets mudded over on the first pour of the concrete on the shower floor. And i still lay my vinyl pan over the curb all the way to the floor on the outside but i fold my pan and lay it on the outside floor about a 1/2" just for the purpose of having a place to nail it and then i morter over the curb when i do inside the shower and then finally i use a waterproofing membrane over everything with exception of the shower floor. I also agree that i dont see the point in waterproofing the shower floor and I dont know exactly what, but theres something about the idea of doing it that tells me it shouldn't be done. I dont know if its the possibility of a mold/mildew issue if water happened to get between the tile and liner or what but something just doesn't feel right about it.
great job! thanks! very helpful....I'm wondering is with the shower pan you poured, have you ever used the small black stones set on their side into the thin-set for the floor of the shower....??? A friend has his set up this way and says he gets a foot massage out of the floor each and every shower....seems like a great idea...ever done one of those???
@ Karen M Huestis....UA-cam not allowing me to respond directly to your comment, so maybe you'll see this. If your house has a basement or a crawlspace....or if the bathroom is upstairs, you have no concrete under the tub. But if your bathroom is in your basement OR if you have no crawlspace ( like a ranch style house ) then you have a slab constructed house...in which case there is concrete under your tub.
Your video is great and have watched several times and decided to take on our project as a DIY. We have removed the cast iron tub and ready to convert to the walkin shower. We have rebuilt the plywood floor for a solid flat surface and now ready to build the shower pan. We are confused as to whether or not we need to pour concrete ( as you do on the video) on the plywood before installing shower pan material, then another layer on top of shower pan material as you do in your video for the slope. Why can we not put the shower pan material on the plywood floor and save a layer of concrete/mortar?
Thanks Steve for the comment. In this video I poured concrete on the floor to get the drain to par with the concrete subfloor, since you have a WOOD subfloor, there's no need for that step....however, the correct method nowdays is to pack in sandmix ( available at Home Depot ) to form a pre-slope on the wood subfloor, let it dry, then install pan liner and then pour sandmix into the pan & taper to the drain flange. I'm not a huge fan of the process for various reasons, but that's how it's supposed to be done. There's a kit called Pitch Perfect for the DIY'er which is a good product to make it easier.
I've a few concerns about this. Penetrating the curb and vinyl liner (with nail or screw) any where in the "wet area" can lead to eventual swelling of the lumber curb, which will then crack the grout, allowing even more water to accelerate deterioration. Twenty-something years ago, I came-up with the method of making a one-piece galvanized metal-lath (upside-down) "U" (channel) which lays full-length over the curb/liner. Be careful that the metal does not quite touch the liner on the bottom/inside of curb. When you do your cement/sand mix layer on liner, it grabs/holds the bottom of the lath on inside of curb. The next day, you can then nail/screw the metal lath at the bottom OUTSIDE of curb only. You then pack/coat the metal lath with good thinset/tile mud and the next day when that is dry, it is very strong and tile ready. You could also coat the lath with a portland/sand mix with some liquid bonder admix. No penetrations in wet-area. I also recommend having the liner come-up on wall a few inches higher when possible. Using Redgard over greenboard is questionable. Why won't moisture enter the greenboard from the bottom edge, even if you tried coating it? It won't stick so great there. Plus, Redgard is prone to peeling-off of a smooth semi-slick surface like drywall/greenboard.
+terebrate Thanks for your input, sounds like a great way of building a cub ! However, tile & grout done improperly water still gets in it and absorbs moisture, ruins the floor under, water drips into kitchen ceiling. To your comment of swelling wood...water will never see the wood, so can't swell...and never had those issues, besides the pan liner acts as an uncoupling membrane so the transfer is impossible. To the greenboard comment, Redgard will not "peel" off if you don't pull it off...after applying it you tile it, so a moot issue. The walls could be ANYTHING, but whatever is used is still porous and will take in water if topical membrane isn't on it, so cardboard could be used.
You have great videos! two questions: 1. Do you bring down the greenboard right to the floor of shower so its resting on top of your membrane? 2. Is the Regard the only thing you use to seal that space? You use any fiberglass felt along with Redard?
Any wallboard, no matter what it is, should never be set on the membrane ( in the pan ). Redgard is all I use, you CAN use fiberglass tape in corners, but redgard is felxible.
StarrTile So how much is the gap between greenboard and the finished pitch floor (this is what I meant not membrane)? So you just seal the very bottom of greenboard that meets with floor with redgard? trying to understand how the bottom finishes. thank you for your help
Marc Jr Some will put the wallboard to 1/2" of floor so the floor tile slides under it....I fill the gap ( if any ) with thin-set and when Redgarding the walls & corners, I Redgard the area too, out from wall on floor about 3-4 inches
Nice job! But the requirements say that the durock goes down first then the mud job floor goes down. That the mud job floor should hold the durock and the screws should be 8 inches from the ground.
Your comment appreciated. However, codes vary depending on city/state you're in. Cement board would do nothing on a cement floor, and screws are high enough up as to never see water...Redgard will ensure that too ;-)
My bathroom consist of a large tub along with tile surrounding all the way up to the ceiling. Im thinking of of removing the tub,and then adding tile that either matches or goes hand in hand with the current tile currently place. Adding a stud at the bottom for a dam,then perhaps using mosaic tile for that part.Along with hardibacker for the flooring along with tile I would hate to remove everything completly,the tile above the tub now is nice tile.Ever seen this done? I would of course keep all handles and drainage as is. Ive never seen sheetrock used in showers,only durock btw.
To answer your question, a transition to another tile & using a "border" mosaic or something to define the difference is done sometimes, yes...depends on if you are ok with that look...I've done it a few times, looks ok. Doesn't matter the backerboard, using a topical membrane like Redgard is MORE important than what wallboard is used...I could use CARDBOARD on a shower wall if sealed properly.
Oh ok gotcha.Yea thats what I'll do.Cheaper too. As far as the shower pan,I've seen some built,but I think it would be better to buy one constructed already.Any thoughts on this?
There is no "insulating material"....a pan liner is set, then the pan is poured with sand topping mix, sloped to drain, after dried out the tile is installed.
Answer me this I am starting a bathroom demo I have that same tile house built in 1965 do I have to gut the whole shower cause my air register is on the outside wall of my standing shower.im thinking like Mike Holmes would take it all down
Hey I was wondering if you can help with a question I have. I have a laundry room with a toilet and sink. I want to add a shower to complete the bathroom. The only thing that stops me is that I don't want to break any concrete to set the p trap. Would it be possible to raise the shower floor using that sanded mortar you used? If so how high would it have to be raised so the ptrap would function properly. If not are their alternatives to the p trap?
iilover doe Yes you could build the shower up off the ground ( step up shower ) with a clearance of 10''-12'' for the p-trap....or whatever the measurement is from drain cap to end of the trap. But honestly cutting the concrete the typical 6'' to the grade ( dirt ) is easier, a concrete saw & jackhammer rented from Home Depot will be $100 and take just an hour or so.
GREAT Video....I wouldn't hesitate to DIY one :) However...there is always that design question about 1 small tile strip vs 2 smaller strips. And where to locate the odd strip. I don't know if it was purposeful to put curb 2" piece on Right and on the Left on the back wall....probably should have been same side(??) ....but the design question I have.. ( or it is STRICTLY a matter of taste??) Should the 2' strip have been on the left or right all together? The controls and shower head look so nice on the right, withOUT that busy little strip!! But when you walk in the Bathroom, for me, that strip on the left kinda sticks out. AGAIN, Beautiful job. Million tomes better than anything I could do :(
Did you pre-slope the floor before putting in the vinyl liner? Also, that vanity top is probably Corian or some other engineered solid surface, I have one just like it. Easy to maintain, just scratches some what easily.
The shower pan I am building is going to be in the 5+ X 3.5 ish range. The 5x6 Oatey liner I see everywhere is going to be a stretch to get 6" at each end. Do you have any thoughts on seaming 2 of them together. I've seen a 5x10 advertised so I am leaning at ordering one of those and trimming excess. But back to seaming, have you used the Oatey cement to put 2 pieces together? Would the Redgard you use hold to the liner as added protection?
+Glock Shooter Redgard will not hold the liner, the glue ( Oatey cement ) is what you need. It's like contact cement, spread it on both sections at least 4'', let dry, then place them together with some weight. It does work but gives you a thicker liner where you glue them. Home Depot carries 5foot in a roll so get 6 feet or more, the width will be 5feet so plenty to cover over curb & go up other wall 6-8 inches.
Ive always been told to put concrete board on the walls but you used sheetrock. You being the professional here-could you tell me why you used sheetrock instead? It seems like you get a smoother finish wall to wall using sheetrock which would make it easier to tile.
Allow me to explain about wallboard. I use Greenboard in my showers, basically sheetrock with a chemical to prevent mold & mildew...it is a no no to use gypsum in a wet area because mold/mildew feed off of it. HOWEVER, with a topical membrane, in this case Redgard ( 2 coats minimum ) I preclude water from ever getting to the board, then trowling out thinset on the walls, using a large tile, sealing the grout, the entire process insures waterproofing of any wall board you use. It could be hardi, durock, wonderboard, or an 8 inch thick concrete wall, in EVERY case you use a topical membrane, so what difference does it make what the board is ? Cardboard would work if it was stiff enough to set on the studs.
+Robert S. JR. Many would say YES....though they can't explain why if a topical membrane is being used. The real answer ( that all want to hear ) is don't use greenboard in a shower, the reality is I can use cardboard and paint it with Redgard, no water will get to it ;-)
Didn't get to see the niche get made and would like to know. Looks like you cut out a section of the center stud right? Then make the outline with 2 by 4s. Do you think the plastic moisture/vapor barriers are necessary before the cement backers? I don't think you used them here. Thanks!
Yes, I always start in middle of back wall, cut out stud & nail in 2x4s to create niche. After wall board is attached to entire area, I redgard all walls at least twice, niche gets 3 coats, will not leak. As a rule, no plastic barrier needed if using a topical water sealer.
That turned out really nice. I'm curious about doing this on a first level (meaning with a basement below). I haven't found any videos that show this process without digging out concrete. Is the process the same, or is additional support in the basement required?
Mr. Doyle, I have a question...I have been told by more than one contractor that they use sand for the pre-slope. What is your opinion on this method? Have you seen this before? I live in South Florida in a single family single level home with a concrete slab. By the way, your videos are amazing. Thanks.
+omarperez101 A pre-slope is formed with SAND TOPPING MIX, not sand...topping mix is the same make up as your pan. My opinion is a pre-slope isn't needed ( see : Shower Pre Slope Explained on UA-cam ). And thanks for the compliment, much appreciated ;-)
+omarperez101 Mr Doyle, I am having trouble with my youtube account so this post may appear more than once and I apologize, but I have a question. I put up a vapor sheild (6 mil clear plastic sheeting) behind the Durock for a shower I am doing. When I went to buy Redgard I found out I should not do both. Should I a) tear down the Durock and vapor sheild and start over, b) use the Redgard as is, or c) leave it alone and not use Redgard? Thanks. Omar
+Omar Perez The reason to NOT do vapor & Redgard is if water gets in between it can possibly create a "mold sandwich"...however, with proper tiling, grouting, sealing of walls, water should never get in between. So the answer could be either A B or C, depends on how confidant you are doing the proper steps to insure water never see's the walls. Having said that, my belief is that Redgard trumps a moisture barrier ( plastic sheeting ) so I would be inclined to do A
Why not use durarock instead of green board. Also Ive done curbs without screwing thru liner. one way is to put board before you set mortar, that holds the bottom also use liquid nails plus some carfuly predrilled screws from top to edge of side (this only works with 1/2 hardibacker). Other way is to make curb out of concrete.
thanks. Will pick up some sand mix at HD. Been watching some other you tube videos and see that they are putting down a black roofing mtl & wire mesh to the plywood prior to pouring which seems proper...would you agree? Also, as you did, we changed out drain to 2" but left it at approx. location as the existing tub drain, so we have approx. 5 ft from rear wall of stall to front drain. I've heard 1/4" slope per foot which in our case would be over 1"...this sounds extreme? I would think 1/2" slope would be more than sufficient. Last question, do you also slope the first layer or only layer on top of vinyl pan?
I don't understand, tar paper & wire is put where ? Before the liner ? Inside of it ? I wouldn't do either, no point. All you need to do is make sure the plywood subfloor is solid....if it's 1/4'' or 3/8'' I would shore it up with 3/4'' or at least put down 1/2'' backerboard 1st....then set the pre-slope, set liner and pour the pan. And yes, 1/4'' per foot is proper slope for drain ( and pan mud btw ).
StarrTile thanks again for your prompt response. They stapled the paper & wire to the plywood before the liner saying the paper was required so plywood did not absorb the water from mortar. The wire was used to "hold" the mortar. Our floor is solid.
Steve Cooper When your curb is set, and you do the pre-slope, putting the sandmix on the plywood is fine, it should not be runny...it should be clumpy so the moisture content is not enough to cause issues, however, I can see where some ppl will feel better putting tar paper down 1st, though I don't feel the wire mesh is needed...doesn't hurt, but not needed. Just be sure NO PART of that wire is near the surface, since you can cut the liner when you install it.
Awesome video. Thanks. Saw green board used down to the pan for the walls. Is there an advantage to using the durock/wonderboard instead of green board?
I use Greenboard by default...a gypsum based product which mold can live off if it gets wet, but the idea is to waterproof so it see's no moisture. Other backers like Hardi, Wonderboard, and Durock will not get soggy if exposed to water, but then you waterproof those too and all will get mold if wet. There is however a gypsum product for wet areas called DensShield which is pre-waterproofed, basically sheetrock with Redgard on it. So it blows the whole theory of NOT using gypsum in a shower ;-)
I was hoping you could assist me with info on what my options are for installing a curbless shower. Currently the 32"x60'" space is occupied with a fiberglass shower/tub insert with a typical (8" from side wall?) drain off to one side. It is in a concrete slab foundation. It we want to go curbless, how would we lower the drain enough to achieve an ADA accessible , roll in type shower? And if possible should we move the drain more towards the center of the 60" span? Thanks for your consideration
I'm sorry, never built a curbless shower, though seen them ( always on a slab ). My feeling is those slabs in the shower are tapered when they pour them, allowing for proper slope...in which case it wouldn't matter where the drain was, I would probably center it though. Otherwise you'll need to pour some ( sandmix concrete ) at the entrance from left to right about 4-5'' wide and at least a few inches high, like a speed bump...and since a pan liner will not work, Redgard the entire floor about 3 times. Hope that helped !
What would be an estimated cost to pay someone like yourself to switch out a tub for a shower like you have done here (just the tub / shower part exactly like you have it). Also we have a finished basement under our bathroom, will any of this work require the basement ceiling to be replaced?
No your basement ceiling would not need to be replaced... and I could not possibly tell you a price on doing a tub to shower conversion, there are way too many factors to consider as each project is different. But you can count on 2 to 4k.
Yes you start from where the dirt ends, usually your foundation is about 3 to 5 inches thick, you would pour that amount of concrete all around the drain so that it's flush with the rest of the floor
Are you in Florida?? We are doing this kind of conversion and would like to do much of work ourselves.. but wondering if this work is to code; how close you are to our area ;) and if close, whether we could get estimate for some of the prep work with pipes / plumbing. Getting nervous about timeline with guests coming for Christmas. Fantastic video. Just not sure husband will want to do the copper pipes, moving over.
just cerious my mom wants to get rid of the the bath tub and put just a shower in what is cheaper buying the shower installation kit or do the way you did it in this video?
I would like to do a shower but my wife don't like the wall tile. I guess cleaning the grout after some time. what type of tile would you recommend for the shower pan floor. And also is there a way that i could do with out the wall tile? maybe using fiberglass or some type of PVC back splash. IM JUST LOOKING FOR IDEAS. and i see you know your stuff man..
Can i just use green board like you use baker board and keep it a inch or two from the pan or is it just better to use baker board.I have done some tile work but i do it for myself, just trying to do things right the first time. I never heard of redgard but now i do thanks to your videos..
Mr. Doyle, I put up a vapor sheild (6 mil clear plastic sheeting) behind the Durock for a shower I am doing. When I went to buy Redgard I found out I should not do both. Should I a) tear down the Durock and vapor sheild and start over, b) use the Redgard as is, or c) leave it alone and not use Redgard? Thanks. Omar
Good evening! I have a tub and shower combo! I am thinking of doing the work myself! I have a question regarding the pan. My sub floor is concrete...so, when I take out the tub and locate the drain, and put in the new drain; if the flange is even with the concrete (sub floor), after dry installing it, do I have to put down a concrete bed or just put the pan liner in and tighten down the flange and screw in the drain? Then afterwards put the mortar on top of the pan liner and slop it to the drain?
Thanks for the message. Although I'm never opposed to homeowners doing their own work, you may consider contracting out some of the more difficult phases of a conversion...getting it wrong at step 3 or 4 would not be good by step 6 or 7. In regard to your questions, you don't need a concrete bed if the flange is flush with the floor, you do however need to fill in the "box" where the drain is with concrete...to the bottom flange of drain ( the part with 4 bolt holes ). After drying out, the pan liner goes on top, then the other part of drain is bolted to it with 3rd part of drain screwed down to height you need before pouring the mortar.....mortar is sloped from walls to drain at about 1/4'' per foot and should leave a gap of about 1/2'' below drain cap for thinset & tile.
StarrTile Thank you for the video first. Secondly, I thank you for making my life much easier! I will contract out the plumbing part for the fixture and the sweating of the copper, and lastly, after I do all demolition work can you give me and estimate on how much a plumber should be charging to put in a new fixture? Thanks again, and great video and instructions.
Great attention to detail and well explained, nice to see guys out there taking pride in their work. Have you come across a system for shower pans like the one "TheTileShop.com" sells? If so what are your thoughts please? It's basically and supposedly a fool-proof plastic "quick pitch" pan system and shower curb system. I'm thinking of using it as a DIYer. Great video and tips, thanks.
First off, thanks so much for the kind words ;-) . I'm familiar with the Tile Shop, it's a great store with a good ( but expensive ) selection. I also know the Quick Pitch system you refer to....although I would never use it because of time stipulations I'm under, for a DIY'er I think it's an excellent product, makes it easy for almost anyone to do their own pan & curb if instructions are followed.
"I would never use Hardibacker". I am considering doing this very job in my own 60x30 tub area. I was considering Hardiboard. Why should I not use 1/2 inch Hardiboard as the tile backer?
another great video, thank you. BTW.. you're either not married or you wife has short hair. Pop up stoppers are awesome until you have to unclog them every second day.
Great job .Question, by the drain what do I do with the opening that exposes the pipe down to the p trap? Do I fill it with cement up to the shower floor? how do I support the base and pipe? Thanks
Hernando Acosta On a slab as this is, the drain/ptrap is covered in cement. On a wood floor the cut out section for the drain does the support, and pipe strap under floor.
StarrTile Thank you Sir, I can now complete the job I started -thus saving the money I do not have. Your reply is and answered prayer. I questioned others but no one knew Including a student plumber. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR SKILLS.
+Sandra Possin I use Polyblend, Home Depots product, but normally use an admix instead of water, makes it stronger. I don't think it's redundant to use epoxy grout, it prevents water getting to the Redgard & Liner
hi. i just bought a home with a senior's walk-in tub. do you have any idea how much it would cost to remove it and replace with anything? house is on slab, is in an exterior wall, built in 1978. thank you for any advice or thoughts.
Too many details need to be known, no way to give ANY kind of definite price...even if I did it would be my price, not another guys. But budget for $2500-$4000 total cost.
thank you. by watching your video i was able to see the complexity involved...the drain location, the wall damages, the water pipes. yikes. and i live in southern california..so add a surcharge.
Hi. Great video. I have a bathroom that is identical to the one in the video and I'm in the process of getting quotes from various people. Any way you could tell me realistically how much a renovation like this should cost me? I know they say it depends on the area I'm in (San Antonio, TX) and what I want the end result to be. I got a quote from Rebath and seemed like a lot to me, so just want to know what I should expect. Thanks!
***** Denshield is an ok product, but cost more...and my customer pays the cost & is given a choice, but it is still gypsum board regardless with a coating on it to prevent water penetration. As does Redgard, 2-3 coats on ANY surface and water will not go through. Use Durock, Redgard, use Hardi, Redgard, use 8inch concrete walls, USE REDGARD....understand now ? It doesn't matter the wallboard, tile will never touch it, and water will never see it... topical membrane prevents water penetration. FYI, I don't use regular sheetrock, I use greenboard, but I could use CARDBOARD ( reference my video "Regard on Cardboard" ) or Google Redgard to find it.
*IF THIS WAS HELPFUL PLEASE CONTRIBUTE TO ME PATREON OR PAYPAL..THANK YOU !*
www.patreon.com/starrtile for Patreon or StarrTile@yahoo.com for PayPal
I liked the end where you gave a recap of the project. You explained how you would have like to have seen completed over how it was actually done. All the while you were very candid and aware that at the end of the day the customer wanted it their way and you provided what they wanted. That, sir, is a professional people should be proud to work with, well done!
For the last week I took my tub out and was trying to installed a shower. Am very grateful for your video that showed me what to do. Actually you were the only video that I had found in reference to me need. Thanks you sooooo much.
Thank you for that...actually there are a lot of videos on UA-cam on how to convert tub to shower, but not a lot where you have to suffer through 40 minutes of talking, LOL ! Thanks for your patience ;-)
My husband and I are getting prepared to update a 1973 bathroom. I have been doing the research and came upon your tutorial about the conversion (which is what we want to do). I was so impressed by your thorough explanation of each step of the process I called my husband and urged him to view it also. So many things to know. The part about cutting the small "X" for the drain was brilliant. You know your stuff and I am happy to have viewed it. We have subscribed and will take a look at the others you have done. I wish you were closer to Columbus, Ms. so you could do our update.
+Lee B Thank you so much for the kind words, much appreciated ;-)
GREAT video. I want to do my own shower and this is exactly what I needed. Still kinda scared because I've never done one, but I think you will be my guide and mentor for my DIY shower. I will finish watching all your videos before I start. Thanks for your videos.
This video has been VERY helpful, you cover everything! My husband and I thank you!
+Michelle K And thank YOU for watching :-)
thank you...my husband and I are about to try and do this to our bathroom...you explained things very well. greatly appreciated.
You're most welcome & thanks for watching
Kemberly Scheck how did it go?
This is great!!!! I'm trying to decide if I should change a tub to a walk in shower in my small 1960's MB en suite and this has helped me a great deal to make that decision!!!!
Well let me tell ya - I'm in the middle of remodeling my bathroom and had no clue what to due with the cast iron tub. So I watched one of your videos on that subject, and got hooked on watching some of the others. I like your input and videos so consider me subscribed. Thanks for the help bro.
Thanks so much for your videos. There are quit a few out there, but none as detailed explanation to their methods are your videos. My shower is an exact duplicate as this one. I now feel comfortable with the work and necessary procedures.
Thank you for the compliment, much appreciated and good luck on your project
Thank you for the informative video. The wife and I are in the process of starting a project like this and this video really helps me figure out all that needs to be done. I greatly appreciate your high standard shown in this video. Your tips and tricks will be used in my project. Once again, thank you very much!!!
I appreciate the kind words & compliment ! Good luck on your project, and thanks for suffering through my 40 minutes of yacking ;-)
It's all good. You do good work for sure. There's always room for improvements especially when there are new codes and technologies coming around the corner. Keep up the good work. Keep giving up good contractors a good name. Cheers!!!
Thank you for sharing your video's with us, they are very much appreciated. I love the way you work, it's so nice watching a job being done properly. When I go home I'm going to try and do my bathroom on my own, your video has given me inspiration. Once again, thank you xx
Thank you for the kind words...good luck on your project !
I am in process of pulling out our tub and putting the same thing in. I see you kept pretty much the drain in the same place where the tub was. I was thinking the drain has to be in the middle of the shower? I am glad I watched and it doesnt...that saves alot of work.
You can use a dremel tool with a 1 1/2 in cut off wheel to cut the pipe.
Nice video. I am currently working on a project identical to to this. Just wanted to add that cutting the pvc pipe below grade in a confined space is easily accomplished with mason string. Align the string with the pvc pipe, and keep it level by using a screw driver or some horizontal bar with a smooth surface so that at you cut the pvc pipe the string remains level, this is critical so that the cut of the pipe is level, smooth, not rough and uneven. This is a two person task as one person will need to be on their knees holding down the screw driver with their hands in the hole while the person stands directly above the hole and starts to slide the mason line back and forth to create the cutting action, Just a couple points on the mason line, it is very strong and does not break, it's the same stuff the brick layers use to create. Straight line. Secondly do not stop cutting once you begin otherwise the string may fuse to the pipe. Thirdly, long strokes will help so that the heat dissapates while cutting, otherwise you run the risk of melting the string into the pipe. With regard to setting the drain flange, the caulk is recommended by Oatey in their video, and I don't see how it can hurt, however, by not using it, I can see where water penetration is possible if the drain backs up and you're standing in ankle deep water in the shower. Additionally, I recommend that everyone test the weep holes so that you can be certain that the rubber liner has not obstructed the weep holes. I initially installed the liner and clamped together the drain, and then when I went to test weep holes, they would not drain. The cause was the rubber liner was not cut back to the circumference of the drain and obstructed the weep holes. To test, get a cup of water and a straw. Place a little water in the straw and put in the weep holes. You should see it drainimmediately into the drain. Once you do this, you'll understand the importance of the weep holes. Anyway I just wanted to add my experience of a couple of gotchas that might help someone out. With regard to using the red guard all the way to the drain, I can not see any reason why you would not red guard all the way to the drain, I'm sure it's not for cost, so what would be the downside of coating the entire surface.
That's a lot for taking the time to make your video!! It's really helped.
Woolburr You're welcome & thanks ;-)
Outstanding video. I told my wife and son when I'm done I'm going to email this guy and thank him. I really appreciate it. It helped so much. Our shower came out great and the glass will be delivered on Tuesday.
Thanks Dan ;-)
Great video - explained very well - wish you had included some of the tiling but I got the idea. I like it - nice work! Sounds like you need to invent a one piece preformed curb cover so you don't need to nail through the liner although the water stop paint likely works fine.
+NutmegThumper Thanks for the comment. Actually there are "foam" curbs out there, I think Kerdi has one...guess I'm old school, would rather build it and Redgard it, still waterproof but more sturdy.
Hey excellent job. I want to know if you used modified or unmodified thinset to butter the shower curb that you built?
+Kevin Smith I'm not into the "science" of the products, lots of opinions and forums that discuss ( and argue ) the points. My feel is water will never see ANY of the thinset so it doesn't matter. But I use Home Depots brand Versabond.
Good Instructional video. Thanks. You had said you didn't know what plumber was thinking sticking the capped copper pipes up. The capped copper pipes sticking up are water hammer arrestors.
+septicpro1 well could be.... makes for less noise and faster hot-water?
Great video, we are getting ready to do this type of a project in our guest bath. Your video shows the amount of work and care it requires to do a good job. Wish your company was close. I would totally contract this project out to your company.
You should get yourself an inside cutter. It attaches to a drill and cuts from the inside out. Awesome tool. Just be careful to tighten your Chuck on your drill. Also, those fittings are 90's not 45's.
Great video for me because all things mention are what is in my bathroom; the space between tub and toilet, and you have the same tub drain system I'm having to deal with too. 1975 house on a slab/with the whole for the p- trap, and the wired mud walls that is tiled, however; I will only chip off the old shower tiles from the mud walls and after the tub removal, my plan is to even-up the missing walls were the tub was with 1/2" or 1/4" backer board then seal it up with TEC Skill Set Membrane (Redgard). So your video for me is all in all right on time for my project I already started. I'm also using your other video on "How to build a shower nook". Thanks and keep-up the good work and advise. I will recommend you and your company (videos included) You saved the day on that drain problem (p-trap) that brought me here to UA-cam.
Great Job!! i will be using your video as reference when I start to do my project. Again Great Job!!
this bathroom is about the same size as mine. thank you for the information. I will definitely be referencing this video when I start on my project In a few months
i watched a lot of videos doing this work and I like your techniques, especially how you wrap the corners of your liner. Your approach should be code. Keep up the good work. I wish you were in New York so that I could train under you. I wished you would have showed the details of you pouring the mortar and sand mix, slopping it to the drain. Anyway, you are on the money!
+William Russell Moore Thank you so much for the kind words, much appreciated ;-)
I'll keep in mind the mud pouring process and make a video of that soon.
I'm changing my tub to a full shower. Every plumber that I've had over for an estimate on switching the drain has been outrageous in their pricing. And I swear, the floor is open and ready to go, there's nothing to do except cut off the tub drain, add the new upsize connecting pipe where one end is 1.5" and the other is 2", and install the new drain. Your video shows how to do it and it looks simple (well except you had to cut cement, and I don't). I wish I could attach a picture so you can see how easy these pipes are to get to. I think the job is too small for them and theyre trying to convince me that it's an "all day job", just to make a buck!! I'd do myself, but I'm leary of doing something wrong. Sigh . . .
But thank you for showing how it's done! They can't fool me!
+mel408 Plumbers make 6 figures and thieves ( in my humble opinion ).
This small bathroom is a lot like mine. I was wanting to just make the whole thing shower like with toilet sink inside it. I'm just an old bachelor, and have an elderly mother who can't get in and out of the tub. It would make clean up a breeze. Toilet, shower, and sink could just be hosed down. This would be a great help because of her incontinence. I don't really know what to do about water proofing the toilet.
Thank you so much for posting this video. This is pretty close to exactly what I am facing. I appreciate that like me, you try to make a bulletproof installation. If you were Dallas based, I would simply hire you to do the work if you wanted it. I don't know who in Dallas I would trust with this, so at least for now, I am going to attempt it.
It would have been nice to see the "complete" removal of tile and tub.
Nice job. Just not crazy about the tile lay out on the back wall. In one corner you start with a full 18 x18 and the adjacent corner looks like a 6 x18. Would have looked more symmetrical if each corner had a 12 x 18. Otherwise, great video, really informative.
1) do i have to do a pre slope?
2) would it be fine to use the dry pack for both the pre slope and the actual pan
3) do i need to make all side of the curb touch... or leave a gap between the three pieces of durock?
fantastic video by the way... you're the only vid i found that shows it over a basement type floor. and the only one to explain what the heck to do with the curb . lol
1) Pre-slope is code now in a lot of areas
2) Yes...but for the pan, I don't, I feel better having a wetter texture.
3) It almost doesn't matter since the gap will be filled with thinset anyway, but I always Redgard my curb on all 3 sides, so it's a moot issue.
Thanks for the kind words ! Much appreciated ;-)
Good Job My friend and thanks to let us know all this steps
good info....
I plan on having this done to our bathroom but wonder how much is a reasonable price for a job like this. Shower and tiled including td he floor
+BigSounds Hard to say, too much not known on specifics as well as your area...but plan on spending about $4000-$5000 for materials & labor.
Very seldom do I commemt but that shower looks really nice. I really like that niche
+Tug_Slug Thank you ;-)
Great video and information. It's great to see a job well done. Wish you were in Las Vegas, I would surely hire you. Thanks again.
Thank you Jim, compliment appreciated...and would LOVE to work out in Vegas ;-)
sorry but I have an issue with a few things. 1) transitioning a 2" drain to a 1.5" drain is against code and can risk drainage issues. 2) Covering any joints is troublesome to me, I usually lay down a floorboard one cement board and pour a new cement bed on top that way if they want to re do the shower for what ever reason they still have access to the drain. 3) The liner should be higher about 10-12" for added prevention of leaking on the inside of the shower. However good on ya for using PT wood and wrapping the liner all the way around the curb. Also good on ya for mentioning sloppy corners. A nice tight corner means less chance of water getting in. I like how you don't cut more than you need for the flange glad you mentioned that.
Thanks for the comment. 1) You're right that the drain line for the shower & p-trap should be 2'', past the trap it's ok to be 1 1/2'', but in this case it was nearly impossible to transition the trap ( under grade level ), but it does drain fine...and a low flow shower head insures no back-up issues. I personally stayed at this house & used that shower for over a week with no issues. Also code varies. 2) Great idea on the board idea, I guess someone will have lots of fun with a jackhammer in 20 years ! LOL ! 3) Code says liner should be a min 4-6inches above mudbed, I have 4'' here...would I want more ? Maybe, but I never go 10-12 as you suggest, I believe the 3 coats of Redgard will prevent my walls from ever seeing water, let alone the liner.
And thanks for the compliments on the other issues. Sorry you had to suffer through 45 minutes of me talking, brave guy !!
dsfs Can you explain the alternative to covering up the drain hole with cement? Do you lay plywood on top of the slab, then cementboard, and attach the drain to a cutout in the plywood/cementboard? Does code allow that type of construction? I've only seen showers constructed with cement surrounding the drain.
Thanks for sharing this project and all the details I haven't heard from other videos (i.e. nailing the curb vs. glue). Seeing this really makes me re-think if I want to take on my DIY project, which it looks like a similarly aged home (1953). Is there a way to find out if there is concrete under the tub before I tear it out? I plan to replace the tile on the wall and floor regardless, will that reveal enough to know what's under the tub?
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but the capped lines look like homemade hammer stops to stop the pipes from banging when you close the water valves.
Yes it has been mentioned, and yes you are probably correct
What an EXCELLENT well explained video!!!! Do you find any problems using the 2 inch drain on the reduced drain. Back in the day, I doubt most houses had big drains. We live in North Texas and are shopping for a plumber/remodeler to do exactly this type job. Can you give an estimate on what this type job would cost? We have discussed moving the drain more centered as you said. But in North Texas every house has foundation problems due to the clay soil and I don't really want to punch any un-necessary access points into the slab. But by far, your video is THE BEST!!! I like you explain the "pre-slope" process of the pan. I think it's important process to do! Thank you for posting!!!
+trailertrashtc I don't know what guys charge where you are....I would assume higher than I do, but expect about $2500-$3500 labor.
+trailertrashtc You are not allowed to put a shower pan on an 1 1/2" drain anywhere in the United States let alone stack elbows like that. The trap has to be straight under the drain of the shower pan or that is what we call a running trap and is illegal and will cause problems.
+MrSturgy1 This job was done nearly 3 years ago...for friends of mine. From day one to today the shower has been used & never any problems as you say there will be. The trap and pipe is 1 1/2'' under the slab so changing it to 2'' is impossible. Water flow ( from when it was a tub ) is a LOT higher GPM then the new water saver head has now so there is less water going into drain, code or not it works. As to your statement " Trap needs to be directly under drain " is false, trap can be anywhere prior to transition to main.
I'm allowing this one comment, the other two you posted are redundant and I don't like trolls on my channel.
MrSturgy1 you sir are incorrect. While in some cities possibility there may be a code for shower/tub drain size, all preexisting homes will have either-or and in this particular instance the house originally had a 1.5" drain that has served a tub being filled and then drained all at once and now has a new shower with an up to date shower valve and head that will only produce a fraction of the water that filling the tub did. And your comment about the P-trap is incorrect also. I actually took the time to look up the information before i ended up making a idiotic comment about something that i didnt know what I was talking about and only assumed i did. However... there is no code for the distance of the P-trap from the drain. In fact where im from in the Southeastern US, there isnt even a requirement to have one under a sink or tub/shower. Its purpose is only for oder retention and not actually required to be directly under the drain. The reason it's "usually" directly underneath is because its quite often 2-3 pieces and it makes it easy to get because its purpose doubles as a clean out. Having it a couple feet away from the sink or tub/shower makes no difference what so ever.
And also having it a couple feet away from the drain doesn't cause any problems as long as its positioned in an upright manner with the actual p below the level of the rest of the drain. Its not like the trap is half way across the yard or something. I could see a problem then but not in this case
Treated wood tends to twist and crack as it dries out causing tiles to crack. Use untreated 2x4's; however, if you are using untreated lumber on a slab, you need to isolate it from the slab to prevent moisture migration (use a moisture barrier between the lumber and the slab). In most locations, it is a code violation to install untreated lumber in direct contact with concrete because the moisture from the concrete will rot the lumber. That being said, I think a concrete curb is best.
Its true enough that PT wood does twist and warp. However... not once its nailed down flat on a floor three pieces thick and the nails/screews are placed that close together and also wrapped with two layers of Duraroc and mudded over with thinset. If you were attempting to use PT lumber to frame with in which case it only gets nailed/screewed roughly every 16" or so and with it only being used one stick at a time it will definitely try to crawl back to the woods. His curbs are built and prepped better than ive ever seen. Being a pro tile installer myself, i always build a 4"×5" form and pour my curbs. Even when on a wood foundation, i line the bottom of my form with 30lb felt and apply liquid nail underneath the felt before pouring and then once cured attach 1"×1" angle brackets to the floor inside the shower and on the inside of the curb which gets mudded over on the first pour of the concrete on the shower floor. And i still lay my vinyl pan over the curb all the way to the floor on the outside but i fold my pan and lay it on the outside floor about a 1/2" just for the purpose of having a place to nail it and then i morter over the curb when i do inside the shower and then finally i use a waterproofing membrane over everything with exception of the shower floor. I also agree that i dont see the point in waterproofing the shower floor and I dont know exactly what, but theres something about the idea of doing it that tells me it shouldn't be done. I dont know if its the possibility of a mold/mildew issue if water happened to get between the tile and liner or what but something just doesn't feel right about it.
Not to mention that all floor plates in a slab house are pt wood
Exactly right. Some even go as far as using green plate for a botom plate
Thanks for making this video! This same project is in my future!
great job! thanks! very helpful....I'm wondering is with the shower pan you poured, have you ever used the small black stones set on their side into the thin-set for the floor of the shower....??? A friend has his set up this way and says he gets a foot massage out of the floor each and every shower....seems like a great idea...ever done one of those???
Yes, the stone is called River Rock, set it as a shower floor a few times.
@ Karen M Huestis....UA-cam not allowing me to respond directly to your comment, so maybe you'll see this. If your house has a basement or a crawlspace....or if the bathroom is upstairs, you have no concrete under the tub. But if your bathroom is in your basement OR if you have no crawlspace ( like a ranch style house ) then you have a slab constructed house...in which case there is concrete under your tub.
Your video is great and have watched several times and decided to take on our project as a DIY. We have removed the cast iron tub and ready to convert to the walkin shower. We have rebuilt the plywood floor for a solid flat surface and now ready to build the shower pan. We are confused as to whether or not we need to pour concrete ( as you do on the video) on the plywood before installing shower pan material, then another layer on top of shower pan material as you do in your video for the slope. Why can we not put the shower pan material on the plywood floor and save a layer of concrete/mortar?
Thanks Steve for the comment. In this video I poured concrete on the floor to get the drain to par with the concrete subfloor, since you have a WOOD subfloor, there's no need for that step....however, the correct method nowdays is to pack in sandmix ( available at Home Depot ) to form a pre-slope on the wood subfloor, let it dry, then install pan liner and then pour sandmix into the pan & taper to the drain flange. I'm not a huge fan of the process for various reasons, but that's how it's supposed to be done. There's a kit called Pitch Perfect for the DIY'er which is a good product to make it easier.
I've a few concerns about this. Penetrating the curb and vinyl liner (with nail or screw) any where in the "wet area" can lead to eventual swelling of the lumber curb, which will then crack the grout, allowing even more water to accelerate deterioration. Twenty-something years ago, I came-up with the method of making a one-piece galvanized metal-lath (upside-down) "U" (channel) which lays full-length over the curb/liner. Be careful that the metal does not quite touch the liner on the bottom/inside of curb. When you do your cement/sand mix layer on liner, it grabs/holds the bottom of the lath on inside of curb. The next day, you can then nail/screw the metal lath at the bottom OUTSIDE of curb only. You then pack/coat the metal lath with good thinset/tile mud and the next day when that is dry, it is very strong and tile ready. You could also coat the lath with a portland/sand mix with some liquid bonder admix. No penetrations in wet-area. I also recommend having the liner come-up on wall a few inches higher when possible.
Using Redgard over greenboard is questionable. Why won't moisture enter the greenboard from the bottom edge, even if you tried coating it? It won't stick so great there. Plus, Redgard is prone to peeling-off of a smooth semi-slick surface like drywall/greenboard.
+terebrate Thanks for your input, sounds like a great way of building a cub ! However, tile & grout done improperly water still gets in it and absorbs moisture, ruins the floor under, water drips into kitchen ceiling. To your comment of swelling wood...water will never see the wood, so can't swell...and never had those issues, besides the pan liner acts as an uncoupling membrane so the transfer is impossible.
To the greenboard comment, Redgard will not "peel" off if you don't pull it off...after applying it you tile it, so a moot issue. The walls could be ANYTHING, but whatever is used is still porous and will take in water if topical membrane isn't on it, so cardboard could be used.
Would it be okay to waterproof the ceiling as well, like if I was going to tile the ceiling?
Of course, can't do any harm, but then why not install a fan in there...a more practical approach.
You have great videos! two questions:
1. Do you bring down the greenboard right to the floor of shower so its resting on top of your membrane?
2. Is the Regard the only thing you use to seal that space? You use any fiberglass felt along with Redard?
Any wallboard, no matter what it is, should never be set on the membrane ( in the pan ).
Redgard is all I use, you CAN use fiberglass tape in corners, but redgard is felxible.
StarrTile So how much is the gap between greenboard and the finished pitch floor (this is what I meant not membrane)? So you just seal the very bottom of greenboard that meets with floor with redgard? trying to understand how the bottom finishes. thank you for your help
Marc Jr Some will put the wallboard to 1/2" of floor so the floor tile slides under it....I fill the gap ( if any ) with thin-set and when Redgarding the walls & corners, I Redgard the area too, out from wall on floor about 3-4 inches
StarrTile your the BEST thanks Bob!
Do you have to pre slope on a concrete slab before putting on the mebrane?
Awesome job! Great video!!!! Very educational!
The capped lines are there to aid in water hammer prevention.
Nice video! You are very thorough.
+Rouse MKG Thank you ;-)
Nice job! But the requirements say that the durock goes down first then the mud job floor goes down. That the mud job floor should hold the durock and the screws should be 8 inches from the ground.
Your comment appreciated. However, codes vary depending on city/state you're in. Cement board would do nothing on a cement floor, and screws are high enough up as to never see water...Redgard will ensure that too ;-)
My bathroom consist of a large tub along with tile surrounding all the way up to the ceiling. Im thinking of of removing the tub,and then adding tile that either matches or goes hand in hand with the current tile currently place. Adding a stud at the bottom for a dam,then perhaps using mosaic tile for that part.Along with hardibacker for the flooring along with tile I would hate to remove everything completly,the tile above the tub now is nice tile.Ever seen this done? I would of course keep all handles and drainage as is.
Ive never seen sheetrock used in showers,only durock btw.
To answer your question, a transition to another tile & using a "border" mosaic or something to define the difference is done sometimes, yes...depends on if you are ok with that look...I've done it a few times, looks ok. Doesn't matter the backerboard, using a topical membrane like Redgard is MORE important than what wallboard is used...I could use CARDBOARD on a shower wall if sealed properly.
Oh ok gotcha.Yea thats what I'll do.Cheaper too. As far as the shower pan,I've seen some built,but I think it would be better to buy one constructed already.Any thoughts on this?
Jay mans I think the pre-fab pans are great for a DIY'r...makes it simple.
Alright cool. Hopefully I'll find one in that size.Thanks for the input!
cool video, and like your descriptions as you go; is great
can you please share the name of the insulation material you used between concrete and the tile? Great video thanks for sharing
There is no "insulating material"....a pan liner is set, then the pan is poured with sand topping mix, sloped to drain, after dried out the tile is installed.
Answer me this I am starting a bathroom demo I have that same tile house built in 1965 do I have to gut the whole shower cause my air register is on the outside wall of my standing shower.im thinking like Mike Holmes would take it all down
***** Take out walls....when you put wallboard back it will be fine, just be careful
Hey I was wondering if you can help with a question I have. I have a laundry room with a toilet and sink. I want to add a shower to complete the bathroom. The only thing that stops me is that I don't want to break any concrete to set the p trap. Would it be possible to raise the shower floor using that sanded mortar you used? If so how high would it have to be raised so the ptrap would function properly. If not are their alternatives to the p trap?
iilover doe Yes you could build the shower up off the ground ( step up shower ) with a clearance of 10''-12'' for the p-trap....or whatever the measurement is from drain cap to end of the trap. But honestly cutting the concrete the typical 6'' to the grade ( dirt ) is easier, a concrete saw & jackhammer rented from Home Depot will be $100 and take just an hour or so.
GREAT Video....I wouldn't hesitate to DIY one :)
However...there is always that design question about 1 small tile strip vs 2 smaller strips.
And where to locate the odd strip. I don't know if it was purposeful to put curb 2" piece on Right
and on the Left on the back wall....probably should have been same side(??)
....but the design question I have.. ( or it is STRICTLY a matter of taste??) Should the 2' strip have been on the left or
right all together? The controls and shower head look so nice on the right, withOUT that busy little strip!!
But when you walk in the Bathroom, for me, that strip on the left kinda sticks out.
AGAIN, Beautiful job. Million tomes better than anything I could do :(
Did you pre-slope the floor before putting in the vinyl liner? Also, that vanity top is probably Corian or some other engineered solid surface, I have one just like it. Easy to maintain, just scratches some what easily.
Hello, great video! it was very descriptive. Do you know if there is a way to turn what appears to be a capped off shower into a salon sink?
+ItalNation Sure, easy to do.
The shower pan I am building is going to be in the 5+ X 3.5 ish range. The 5x6 Oatey liner I see everywhere is going to be a stretch to get 6" at each end. Do you have any thoughts on seaming 2 of them together. I've seen a 5x10 advertised so I am leaning at ordering one of those and trimming excess. But back to seaming, have you used the Oatey cement to put 2 pieces together? Would the Redgard you use hold to the liner as added protection?
+Glock Shooter Redgard will not hold the liner, the glue ( Oatey cement ) is what you need. It's like contact cement, spread it on both sections at least 4'', let dry, then place them together with some weight. It does work but gives you a thicker liner where you glue them. Home Depot carries 5foot in a roll so get 6 feet or more, the width will be 5feet so plenty to cover over curb & go up other wall 6-8 inches.
Ive always been told to put concrete board on the walls but you used sheetrock. You being the professional here-could you tell me why you used sheetrock instead? It seems like you get a smoother finish wall to wall using sheetrock which would make it easier to tile.
Allow me to explain about wallboard. I use Greenboard in my showers, basically sheetrock with a chemical to prevent mold & mildew...it is a no no to use gypsum in a wet area because mold/mildew feed off of it. HOWEVER, with a topical membrane, in this case Redgard ( 2 coats minimum ) I preclude water from ever getting to the board, then trowling out thinset on the walls, using a large tile, sealing the grout, the entire process insures waterproofing of any wall board you use. It could be hardi, durock, wonderboard, or an 8 inch thick concrete wall, in EVERY case you use a topical membrane, so what difference does it make what the board is ? Cardboard would work if it was stiff enough to set on the studs.
i enjoyed watching that video. Thank you! i will be following your page.
+tonenj09 Thank you ;-)
Nice job and video. Would you recommend using Durock or other cement backing board instead of greenboard for the shower walls?
+Robert S. JR. Many would say YES....though they can't explain why if a topical membrane is being used.
The real answer ( that all want to hear ) is don't use greenboard in a shower, the reality is I can use cardboard and paint it with Redgard, no water will get to it ;-)
Didn't get to see the niche get made and would like to know. Looks like you cut out a section of the center stud right? Then make the outline with 2 by 4s. Do you think the plastic moisture/vapor barriers are necessary before the cement backers? I don't think you used them here. Thanks!
Yes, I always start in middle of back wall, cut out stud & nail in 2x4s to create niche. After wall board is attached to entire area, I redgard all walls at least twice, niche gets 3 coats, will not leak. As a rule, no plastic barrier needed if using a topical water sealer.
That turned out really nice. I'm curious about doing this on a first level (meaning with a basement below). I haven't found any videos that show this process without digging out concrete. Is the process the same, or is additional support in the basement required?
Mr. Doyle, I have a question...I have been told by more than one contractor that they use sand for the pre-slope. What is your opinion on this method? Have you seen this before? I live in South Florida in a single family single level home with a concrete slab. By the way, your videos are amazing. Thanks.
+omarperez101 A pre-slope is formed with SAND TOPPING MIX, not sand...topping mix is the same make up as your pan. My opinion is a pre-slope isn't needed ( see : Shower Pre Slope Explained on UA-cam ).
And thanks for the compliment, much appreciated ;-)
+omarperez101 Mr Doyle, I am having trouble with my youtube account so this post may appear more than once and I apologize, but I have a question. I put up a vapor sheild (6 mil clear plastic sheeting) behind the Durock for a shower I am doing. When I went to buy Redgard I found out I should not do both. Should I a) tear down the Durock and vapor sheild and start over, b) use the Redgard as is, or c) leave it alone and not use Redgard? Thanks. Omar
+Omar Perez The reason to NOT do vapor & Redgard is if water gets in between it can possibly create a "mold sandwich"...however, with proper tiling, grouting, sealing of walls, water should never get in between. So the answer could be either A B or C, depends on how confidant you are doing the proper steps to insure water never see's the walls.
Having said that, my belief is that Redgard trumps a moisture barrier ( plastic sheeting ) so I would be inclined to do A
Yeah i have a block house built in 59 and have a bathroom very similar to some you have worked on
Why not use durarock instead of green board.
Also Ive done curbs without screwing thru liner. one way is to put board before you set mortar, that holds the bottom also use liquid nails plus some carfuly predrilled screws from top to edge of side (this only works with 1/2 hardibacker).
Other way is to make curb out of concrete.
thanks. Will pick up some sand mix at HD. Been watching some other you tube videos and see that they are putting down a black roofing mtl & wire mesh to the plywood prior to pouring which seems proper...would you agree? Also, as you did, we changed out drain to 2" but left it at approx. location as the existing tub drain, so we have approx. 5 ft from rear wall of stall to front drain. I've heard 1/4" slope per foot which in our case would be over 1"...this sounds extreme? I would think 1/2" slope would be more than sufficient. Last question, do you also slope the first layer or only layer on top of vinyl pan?
I don't understand, tar paper & wire is put where ? Before the liner ? Inside of it ? I wouldn't do either, no point. All you need to do is make sure the plywood subfloor is solid....if it's 1/4'' or 3/8'' I would shore it up with 3/4'' or at least put down 1/2'' backerboard 1st....then set the pre-slope, set liner and pour the pan. And yes, 1/4'' per foot is proper slope for drain ( and pan mud btw ).
StarrTile thanks again for your prompt response. They stapled the paper & wire to the plywood before the liner saying the paper was required so plywood did not absorb the water from mortar. The wire was used to "hold" the mortar. Our floor is solid.
Steve Cooper When your curb is set, and you do the pre-slope, putting the sandmix on the plywood is fine, it should not be runny...it should be clumpy so the moisture content is not enough to cause issues, however, I can see where some ppl will feel better putting tar paper down 1st, though I don't feel the wire mesh is needed...doesn't hurt, but not needed. Just be sure NO PART of that wire is near the surface, since you can cut the liner when you install it.
Awesome video. Thanks. Saw green board used down to the pan for the walls. Is there an advantage to using the durock/wonderboard instead of green board?
I use Greenboard by default...a gypsum based product which mold can live off if it gets wet, but the idea is to waterproof so it see's no moisture. Other backers like Hardi, Wonderboard, and Durock will not get soggy if exposed to water, but then you waterproof those too and all will get mold if wet.
There is however a gypsum product for wet areas called DensShield which is pre-waterproofed, basically sheetrock with Redgard on it. So it blows the whole theory of NOT using gypsum in a shower ;-)
I was hoping you could assist me with info on what my options are for installing a curbless shower.
Currently the 32"x60'" space is occupied with a fiberglass shower/tub insert with a typical (8" from side wall?) drain off to one side. It is in a concrete slab foundation. It we want to go curbless, how would we lower the drain enough to achieve an ADA accessible , roll in type shower? And if possible should we move the drain more towards the center of the 60" span? Thanks for your consideration
I'm sorry, never built a curbless shower, though seen them ( always on a slab ). My feeling is those slabs in the shower are tapered when they pour them, allowing for proper slope...in which case it wouldn't matter where the drain was, I would probably center it though. Otherwise you'll need to pour some ( sandmix concrete ) at the entrance from left to right about 4-5'' wide and at least a few inches high, like a speed bump...and since a pan liner will not work, Redgard the entire floor about 3 times.
Hope that helped !
thanks for sharing your video.if my bathroom is upstairs would it be more difficult?
No, actually it's MUCH easier upstairs.
ok thanks alot
What would be an estimated cost to pay someone like yourself to switch out a tub for a shower like you have done here (just the tub / shower part exactly like you have it). Also we have a finished basement under our bathroom, will any of this work require the basement ceiling to be replaced?
No your basement ceiling would not need to be replaced... and I could not possibly tell you a price on doing a tub to shower conversion, there are way too many factors to consider as each project is different. But you can count on 2 to 4k.
how did you fill in the hole around the drain
Concrete
so just straight up concrete over the dirt. does it completely encase the pvc drain line. thank you for your help I'm a complete noob at this.
Yes you start from where the dirt ends, usually your foundation is about 3 to 5 inches thick, you would pour that amount of concrete all around the drain so that it's flush with the rest of the floor
hey friend,good work, if my cocreete subfloor its a little rough !do I need to poor some sand and cement to make it smooth before I lay my membrane?
Are you in Florida?? We are doing this kind of conversion and would like to do much of work ourselves.. but wondering if this work is to code; how close you are to our area ;) and if close, whether we could get estimate for some of the prep work with pipes / plumbing. Getting nervous about timeline with guests coming for Christmas. Fantastic video. Just not sure husband will want to do the copper pipes, moving over.
No I'm not in Fla., I traveled there to do this job. And I'm booked up through New Years right now.
just cerious my mom wants to get rid of the the bath tub and put just a shower in what is cheaper buying the shower installation kit or do the way you did it in this video?
Obviously the kit is cheaper than how I do it, but will it last ?? Prob not...better to do it right once & spend a little more
I would like to do a shower but my wife don't like the wall tile. I guess cleaning the grout after some time.
what type of tile would you recommend for the shower pan floor. And also is there a way that i could do with out the wall tile?
maybe using fiberglass or some type of PVC back splash. IM JUST LOOKING FOR IDEAS. and i see you know your stuff man..
A 2x2 on a mat or single 4x4 tile on the floor...the walls need tile, perhaps a laminated fiberglass panel, buy why ???
Can i just use green board like you use baker board and keep it a inch or two from the pan or is it just better to use baker board.I have done some tile work but i do it for myself, just trying to do things right the first time. I never heard of redgard but now i do thanks to your videos..
Yes you can use anything IF YOU waterproof it.
Mr. Doyle, I put up a vapor sheild (6 mil clear plastic sheeting) behind the Durock for a shower I am doing. When I went to buy Redgard I found out I should not do both. Should I a) tear down the Durock and vapor sheild and start over, b) use the Redgard as is, or c) leave it alone and not use Redgard? Thanks. Omar
+Omar Perez Using both is NOT a good idea, but I'm sure it's past too late now.
Good evening! I have a tub and shower combo! I am thinking of doing the work myself! I have a question regarding the pan. My sub floor is concrete...so, when I take out the tub and locate the drain, and put in the new drain; if the flange is even with the concrete (sub floor), after dry installing it, do I have to put down a concrete bed or just put the pan liner in and tighten down the flange and screw in the drain? Then afterwards put the mortar on top of the pan liner and slop it to the drain?
Thanks for the message. Although I'm never opposed to homeowners doing their own work, you may consider contracting out some of the more difficult phases of a conversion...getting it wrong at step 3 or 4 would not be good by step 6 or 7. In regard to your questions, you don't need a concrete bed if the flange is flush with the floor, you do however need to fill in the "box" where the drain is with concrete...to the bottom flange of drain ( the part with 4 bolt holes ). After drying out, the pan liner goes on top, then the other part of drain is bolted to it with 3rd part of drain screwed down to height you need before pouring the mortar.....mortar is sloped from walls to drain at about 1/4'' per foot and should leave a gap of about 1/2'' below drain cap for thinset & tile.
StarrTile Thank you for the video first. Secondly, I thank you for making my life much easier! I will contract out the plumbing part for the fixture and the sweating of the copper, and lastly, after I do all demolition work can you give me and estimate on how much a plumber should be charging to put in a new fixture? Thanks again, and great video and instructions.
Leonard Johnson Depends on some variables, but count on about $300-$400...really shouldn't be that much, but ya know plumbers making 6 figures a year
StarrTile Thank you Sir! You have been a big help!
Have you tried using an oscillating tool with a bent adapter to cut the drain? Might be a little easier to fit in there and work with?
This video old..since then I bought one 👍
How much does aomething like this cost? Parts-wise? I need to try and change my aging mother's bathtub to something a bit safer for her to shower in.
I agree with others. Great video. Maybe a new calling.
Great attention to detail and well explained, nice to see guys out there taking pride in their work. Have you come across a system for shower pans like the one "TheTileShop.com" sells? If so what are your thoughts please? It's basically and supposedly a fool-proof plastic "quick pitch" pan system and shower curb system. I'm thinking of using it as a DIYer. Great video and tips, thanks.
First off, thanks so much for the kind words ;-) . I'm familiar with the Tile Shop, it's a great store with a good ( but expensive ) selection. I also know the Quick Pitch system you refer to....although I would never use it because of time stipulations I'm under, for a DIY'er I think it's an excellent product, makes it easy for almost anyone to do their own pan & curb if instructions are followed.
StarrTile Thanks for the quick response and your opinion.
I had a question about the hole where the drain is. Would it be ok to fill that with sand rather than concrete?
"I would never use Hardibacker".
I am considering doing this very job in my own 60x30 tub area. I was considering Hardiboard. Why should I not use 1/2 inch Hardiboard as the tile backer?
When you built up the initial floor before the shower pan, was there any type of slope? or is that slab perfectly level?
+Johnny C I think this one ended up with a slope because of the build up I had to do.
Love your videos!
another great video, thank you. BTW.. you're either not married or you wife has short hair. Pop up stoppers are awesome until you have to unclog them every second day.
Do you do anything different for a metal framed house, all I've seem are wood framed , do you still put in your wood along the bottom in a metal house
terry wagner I most likely would try to, haven't done a metal framed shower yet...thankfully
Great job .Question, by the drain what do I do with the opening that exposes the pipe down to the p trap? Do I fill it with cement up to the shower floor? how do I support the base and pipe? Thanks
Hernando Acosta On a slab as this is, the drain/ptrap is covered in cement. On a wood floor the cut out section for the drain does the support, and pipe strap under floor.
StarrTile Thank you Sir, I can now complete the job I started -thus saving the money I do not have. Your reply is and answered prayer. I questioned others but no one knew Including a student plumber. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR SKILLS.
thanks
Beautiful Job omg!
Thanks !
Great detailed awesome pase explanation. You are great dude. Thanks!
how did you fill the hole around the drain before laying the cement? or did you just fill it in with cement?
Not sure I understand...the square where the drain used to be got filled with cement, yes..
Curious as to what kind of grout you use? I'm wondering if the use of the PVC liner and Redgard will be redundant with an epoxy grout?
+Sandra Possin I use Polyblend, Home Depots product, but normally use an admix instead of water, makes it stronger. I don't think it's redundant to use epoxy grout, it prevents water getting to the Redgard & Liner
hi. i just bought a home with a senior's walk-in tub. do you have any idea how much it would cost to remove it and replace with anything? house is on slab, is in an exterior wall, built in 1978. thank you for any advice or thoughts.
Too many details need to be known, no way to give ANY kind of definite price...even if I did it would be my price, not another guys. But budget for $2500-$4000 total cost.
thank you. by watching your video i was able to see the complexity
involved...the drain location, the wall damages, the water pipes. yikes. and i live in southern california..so add a surcharge.
Are you pouring cement because it’s on a slab? Would you still pour concrete if there were a basement below?
Hi. Great video. I have a bathroom that is identical to the one in the video and I'm in the process of getting quotes from various people. Any way you could tell me realistically how much a renovation like this should cost me? I know they say it depends on the area I'm in (San Antonio, TX) and what I want the end result to be. I got a quote from Rebath and seemed like a lot to me, so just want to know what I should expect. Thanks!
Cost is hard to determine since most of it is labor and that's too subjective...but FINISHED job, all material & labor about $2000 to $3500
StarrTile Thanks Bob. That's just what I was wondered as well. I'm going to do this as well. Excellent vid.
Cheers!
I would love to do this but I'm so scared I'm gonna mess it up. I wish u could do it for me.:/ how much did it cost?
Hard to tell you cost, as I've no idea what was spent on tile, fixture, etc....bldg. material is about $400 and labor is about $2000
Thnx4yer video. Why wouldn't you go with dura rock on the walls instead of sheet rock?
Durock bow's between the studs, so I prefer something more rigid.
***** Denshield is an ok product, but cost more...and my customer pays the cost & is given a choice, but it is still gypsum board regardless with a coating on it to prevent water penetration. As does Redgard, 2-3 coats on ANY surface and water will not go through. Use Durock, Redgard, use Hardi, Redgard, use 8inch concrete walls, USE REDGARD....understand now ? It doesn't matter the wallboard, tile will never touch it, and water will never see it... topical membrane prevents water penetration. FYI, I don't use regular sheetrock, I use greenboard, but I could use CARDBOARD ( reference my video "Regard on Cardboard" ) or Google Redgard to find it.