You’re welcome. That’s is why I made the video! I looked everywhere for a great tutorial and couldn’t find one. I ended up with over 2 hours of footage I had to break down. I hope yours goes well.
This was great help. I had issues with axel bolts under motor. I ended up removing the motor to access the bolts. I was able to remove brake plate bolts without messing them up. Reconnecting the brake cable was the hardest thing I had to deal with. Cart brakes are much stronger and no noise.
I had two g29s I bought around same time. Second one was a good deal and couldn't pass it up. One had team axle and other was newer when the switched back to standard axle with drum brakes. Team axle definitely has better braking power with much less force being applied to pedal but I'm kinda glad I sold that one and kept newer drum brake model even if brakes aren't as good. Much simpler maintenance. I have such steep inclines here I really need front brakes as my rears.overheated a while back while going downhill with too heavy of a trailer. It could have ended badly as I was forced to exit driveway into main road at high rate of speed. Live and learn.
This helped me out alot. Thanks. Mine was making the same noise and I took apart and changed all disc's and plates and it's making the same noise. I'm stumped. All gears and bearings look good too. Not sure what to do now
@@TightWadDIY yes the same noise. This video did help me out to get it back together and I did use yamalube. I can only fit just over a quart in rear end. Used all new brake plates and discs
Thank you so much for this great step by step video! Help me out a lot! I am almost done. Just one question, that last plate if I don’t have a press would it make a difference if I don’t change it?
Thank you for this video, very much appreciated and the BEST video around for step by step. 2 Questions: #1 Question: Just want to get your advice, if I had noticed that the motor had been leaking oil for quite some time and I'm just getting around to fix it; I went ahead and followed your video and pulled the transaxle down; and the best I can tell is the the oil leak was from main/case seal; Is it normal wear & tear for that main seal to go bad? --- I removed the drain plug and NO oil came out. :(. #2 I supposed I'll have top OPEN Up the case so I can put in the new seal(?), I'll order and use the same seal you did. Thank you for any advice.
Good instructions thank you. Just refurbished my motor (brushes etc) and the brake may be next, after this video I know I can do it myself ! just one question, how much oil does it take please ? cheers Ian
Really appreciate this video. I was able to complete this process exactly like you did. However, although I do not hear the noise braking forward.. I do still hear the noise (minimal) when I brake going in reverse... any thoughts?
I figured it wasn’t good to have all of that powder in there. Wanted to ensure the best environment possible. I don’t know that it’s recommended by Yamaha but a lot of other users mentioned doing it.
I was going to take my 2013 G-29 Yamaha to shop but they can’t guarantee they can fix it or get parts so after this video I will try! My rearend grinds and cart doesn’t move. Do you have a video showing what the end of axle locks into inside the housing?
Great video. Thank you for doing it. One question? I have replaced the transaxle oil on my 2013 YRDA G29 cart as a maintaince service. (at 5 yrs) There was no noise or squeeks when applying the brakes before I changed the oil. Now with the new Yamalube oil, I get a slight chirp or squeek just before the cart comes to a stop at times. Your opinion? Should I not worry about it? or try changing the oil again? Thank's in advance. Jim......
I have a 2007 YDRE. It's not making noise while breaking, but it's making a grinding noise while coasting or once I reach top speed and it goes into regen mode. Thoughts?
If I'm not mistaken, these models have what's called an input shaft bumper. It's just a rubber cup that slides into the motor female spline shaft. They need to be replaced every 4-5 years so that (for what ever reason) it doesn't mess up the softer metal splines on the motor. Pull your motor and look very closely at the motor splines and you'll see some of the teeth will be worn. Hopefully you don't have to replace the input shaft.The noise your talking about was cured by installing a lesser priced rebuilt motor which included the bumper. PS, "they" don't just sell the armature alone.
So will you explain how you fit your impact driver down to a quarter inch drive? I bought the 3/8th impact driver in the link, but have no way to put my quarter inch drive 3/16 hex key into it…
Hi! I appreciate the video! I am replacing my brakes as well. I noticed when putting the friction disc and plates back in you used 5 discs and 4 plates? It is kind of sped up there so I’m not for sure. But my kit came with 5 plates. And you ended with friction disc and I keep ending with that last plate. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
Sorry I just now saw this comment. I put mine back exactly how it came off. Looks like I used 5 friction plates(with grooves) and 4 smooth ones. So start and end with a grooved.
The last plate (with the teeth on the axle) cannot be removed because the bearing is locking it on the axle. Any tips for removing it? It is not shown in the video
Hi, is there a way to change the input shaft without cracking open the cover? The last bearing on the input shaft is hitting a gear, and I can't get it out. I really dont want to crack open the Case.
I wasn't going to rebuild mine but after watching your step by step video I feel confident doing it thanks...Great video!
That’s great! You can do it!
This is so awesome! Thank you for putting this together! This is the only clear video online for this whole process. Very well done!
You’re welcome. That’s is why I made the video! I looked everywhere for a great tutorial and couldn’t find one. I ended up with over 2 hours of footage I had to break down. I hope yours goes well.
This was great help. I had issues with axel bolts under motor. I ended up removing the motor to access the bolts. I was able to remove brake plate bolts without messing them up. Reconnecting the brake cable was the hardest thing I had to deal with. Cart brakes are much stronger and no noise.
That’s great! I’m glad it worked for you too!
Best video… well explained… you made it look easy…plucking the courage to fix my cart… thanks
I couldn’t find a complete video so I did it myself!
Great video with great pictures and explanations. Thank you and you should be very proud of making such a good video. Thank you again.
I’m glad you found the video and that it was helpful.
Thanks a ton for this video! Just did mine using this as a guide and it was extremely helpful 👍🏼
Yes! I’m glad it helped someone. I couldn’t find a thorough video so that’s why I made one.
I had two g29s I bought around same time. Second one was a good deal and couldn't pass it up. One had team axle and other was newer when the switched back to standard axle with drum brakes. Team axle definitely has better braking power with much less force being applied to pedal but I'm kinda glad I sold that one and kept newer drum brake model even if brakes aren't as good. Much simpler maintenance. I have such steep inclines here I really need front brakes as my rears.overheated a while back while going downhill with too heavy of a trailer. It could have ended badly as I was forced to exit driveway into main road at high rate of speed. Live and learn.
Yikes! That could have been really bad.
@@TightWadDIY luckily its a rural county road but still...
@@truthhurts2149 I figured it was when you said you were pulling a trailer with a golf cart! The city folks wouldn’t know how to hook it up.
This helped me out alot. Thanks. Mine was making the same noise and I took apart and changed all disc's and plates and it's making the same noise. I'm stumped. All gears and bearings look good too. Not sure what to do now
It makes the same noise as mine when you are coming to a stop? Did you use the YamaLube? Are you sure you added the right anoint?
@@TightWadDIY yes the same noise. This video did help me out to get it back together and I did use yamalube. I can only fit just over a quart in rear end. Used all new brake plates and discs
@@TightWadDIY do you have any idea what else it could be?
@@khuber32 I really don’t know. I’m new to golf carts. I was shocked at how big of a job it was to replace the brakes!
Thank you so much for this great step by step video! Help me out a lot! I am almost done. Just one question, that last plate if I don’t have a press would it make a difference if I don’t change it?
I didn’t change mine and it worked fine.
Thank you for this video, very much appreciated and the BEST video around for step by step.
2 Questions:
#1 Question: Just want to get your advice, if I had noticed that the motor had been leaking oil for quite some time and I'm just getting around to fix it; I went ahead and followed your video and pulled the transaxle down; and the best I can tell is the the oil leak was from main/case seal; Is it normal wear & tear for that main seal to go bad? --- I removed the drain plug and NO oil came out. :(.
#2 I supposed I'll have top OPEN Up the case so I can put in the new seal(?), I'll order and use the same seal you did. Thank you for any advice.
I’d assume a new seal would solve the issue. It’s hard to say without seeing it though.
Fantastic video!
Thanks!
Good instructions thank you. Just refurbished my motor (brushes etc) and the brake may be next, after this video I know I can do it myself ! just one question, how much oil does it take please ? cheers Ian
Yes! I’m glad you feel empowered to get it done! Just fill it up. I think it was about 3/4 of a quart.
Really appreciate this video. I was able to complete this process exactly like you did. However, although I do not hear the noise braking forward.. I do still hear the noise (minimal) when I brake going in reverse... any thoughts?
Good clear vid! Thanks
You’re welcome! I really hope it helps others trying to do the same.
Huge help!
Great! It took a long time to record and edit the video so I’m happy to know it’s helping people.
I have to do the same repair. Do you still recommend the pad and plate kit?
This is awesome! What’s the purpose of blowing out the carbon in the motor? Is that a recommended maintenance item?
I figured it wasn’t good to have all of that powder in there. Wanted to ensure the best environment possible. I don’t know that it’s recommended by Yamaha but a lot of other users mentioned doing it.
I was going to take my 2013 G-29 Yamaha to shop but they can’t guarantee they can fix it or get parts so after this video I will try! My rearend grinds and cart doesn’t move. Do you have a video showing what the end of axle locks into inside the housing?
I do. Check out the other videos in this playlist.
Great video. Thank you for doing it.
One question? I have replaced the transaxle oil on my 2013 YRDA G29 cart as a maintaince service. (at 5 yrs) There was no noise or squeeks when applying the brakes before I changed the oil.
Now with the new Yamalube oil, I get a slight chirp or squeek just before the cart comes to a stop at times.
Your opinion? Should I not worry about it? or try changing the oil again?
Thank's in advance.
Jim......
Are you sure you added enough YamaLube? I had a hard time getting the correct amount in while it was on the cart.
How do you find the link to buy from golf cart garage?
I have a 2007 YDRE. It's not making noise while breaking, but it's making a grinding noise while coasting or once I reach top speed and it goes into regen mode. Thoughts?
Check the ball bearings on the axle.
If I'm not mistaken, these models have what's called an input shaft bumper. It's just a rubber cup that slides into the motor female spline shaft. They need to be replaced every 4-5 years so that (for what ever reason) it doesn't mess up the softer metal splines on the motor. Pull your motor and look very closely at the motor splines and you'll see some of the teeth will be worn. Hopefully you don't have to replace the input shaft.The noise your talking about was cured by installing a lesser priced rebuilt motor which included the bumper. PS, "they" don't just sell the armature alone.
The motor shaft slipping on the input shaft sound a whole heck of a lot like a bad bearing.
So will you explain how you fit your impact driver down to a quarter inch drive? I bought the 3/8th impact driver in the link, but have no way to put my quarter inch drive 3/16 hex key into it…
I used a reducer that I bought at Lowe’s.
Hi! I appreciate the video! I am replacing my brakes as well. I noticed when putting the friction disc and plates back in you used 5 discs and 4 plates? It is kind of sped up there so I’m not for sure. But my kit came with 5 plates. And you ended with friction disc and I keep ending with that last plate. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
Sorry I just now saw this comment. I put mine back exactly how it came off. Looks like I used 5 friction plates(with grooves) and 4 smooth ones. So start and end with a grooved.
The last plate (with the teeth on the axle) cannot be removed because the bearing is locking it on the axle. Any tips for removing it? It is not shown in the video
I ended up leaving that one on and it worked fine. You could have a machine shop use a press to take it off.
How do you attact those sockets to the craftmans impact screwdriver? Am i missing something? Thanks
The end pulls off of the impact. Took me a min to figure it out too.
Hi, is there a way to change the input shaft without cracking open the cover? The last bearing on the input shaft is hitting a gear, and I can't get it out. I really dont want to crack open the Case.
You shouldn’t need to. My left side shaft came out because the bearing blew out. See if this video helps: ua-cam.com/video/LosQfD41uYo/v-deo.html
Hi sir I cannot see the monitor screen
I’m not sure what you mean. The video is playing fine for me.
Instead of an "impact screwdriver"...couldnt you just use an "impact drll?
No. It wasn’t powerful enough.