When ever I see one of these vids about this roller , I suggest taking the rollers off and turning them around so that the shoulder is on the outside and that eliminates the work piece " walking " out to the side ... There is a hex head bolt in the way , but I simply remove that and put a round hear bolt in its place ... Mine has worked good for years ...
Ok, I definitely see your logic there. Personally I think I would still have the same issue. The entire unit as a whole just doesn't seem rigid enough. But I wouldn't be willing to say that with 100% certain until I tried what you suggested.
The reason its coming out of the rollers and twisted is you have filled the rollers wirh a taper on them, a peace of aluminium each side, much like soft jaws in a vice works fine
I've purchased a similar Ring Roller. The rolling wheels have a ridge on the outside face keeping the flat stock in perfect alignment. Must have been upgraded since no wobbles, no twists, ends meet up perfectly. It does however leave the last inch or so with no bend similar to your outfit.. Filing off the knurl on those wheels might be a good idea if your working with a finished metal like Copper, Brass or Stainless.
Thank you for this video! Is perfectly demonstrates an exact task I have at hand, and how poor the end result couold be after having to modify the tool beyond ability to return it.
A couple folks noted the wobbly wheel on the bottom next to the knob as the problem. I think taking off the knurl also made the stock want to wander out of alignment. Perhaps not going back and forth, but changing it end for end after each pass through would keep it straight, or determine why that one roller is so wobbly. But your video did answer a few question I had, where I intended to machine grooves in the rollers to conform to a particular shape, preformed tubular straight metal I wanted to bend into curves.
I bought a re badged variant of this roller, i like it, The knurl marks i get are only mill scale deep i found,I'm yet to produce a ring as bad as the one you show with it. I never adjust it while the materials in there but use it more like a pinch roller.
I like the video. It looks like the one of the rollers in wobbling (9 minutes is a good angle to see it). That may be why it's making it twisted and why it's not a consistent twist that's being made.
Man I just set mine up and made a 5inch ring out of 1 1/2 wide by 1/8 and it came out beautiful ,now grant I only keep rolling it in one direction but it worked dam good for the snowblower chute I'm making
He modified his Roller and that's why it didn't perform to his expectations. It rolls perfect every time for me. I'm rolling 10" metal planters. Next time, I think it would be easier to maybe put a cloth like microfiber on it so the knurl marks don't show, instead of ruining your new machine!!
Having used a proper vintage roller I can assure you that the way you 'feed' the roller will determine the final outcome, pulling the material to counter the twist is normal. Buying the bigger roller with adjustment both ends will help greatly as it counters the tendency of the wheels to splay apart.
I just ordered one for my shop but I'll only use it to make rings out of copper or brass rod/bars which is way under the "claimed" limits of this tool. after all it is a metal fabricating tool which involves a lot of hand shaping, twisting , fiddling with the workpiece to submit it to take the final shape.
If using solely the tool, most likely no. However, since you will have the ring already rolled to a close dimension. All that you will need to do is bend your ring by hand. It should maintain a decent shape. At the same time, however, that is a very very small circle. So it probably won't be easy. Good luck, and thank you for watching.
Woof, wish I'd watched before I bought D-= Giving this a shot with a few different sized and materials of round-stock. Honestly I'm just hoping it lets me get some interesting loops that I can use for making dream-catcher type art. Will report back if it proves useful. Thanks for the review and demo!
@jessemozingo1279 There seem to be mixed opinions about it. I think for rolling round stock it would work pretty well. But for flat stock it just didn't deliver the results I need.
Put an 80mm by 6mm length of flat stock with 2 holes drilled, the distance between roller 1 and 3, the bottom rollers, as long as the flat stock is bigger than the diameter of rollers 1 and 3 and with 8 to 10mm either side of the rollers, so it acts as an outside raised edge.Then extend the shafts in rollers 1 and 3 taking account of the extra length needed to hold the length of flat stock on the outside edge of the rollers. This now acts as a retaining edge meaning although your length of stock may wander, the furthest it will go is the outside edge and if you place it there initially, then it'll roll flat stock always straight, and if it wanders, then itll just go to the edge and then self correct its curve in the forward and back turning plane. The round stock to bend will automatically slide on rounded portion in the roller. Then at least when you flatten the knurled edges, you've solved the random sliding from right to left as you pass flat stock through
By altering the tool you've voided any warranty or returns on it depending on how nice your supplier is I'd doubt a return is possible, tool wheels are hardened to some degree, I'd have made or have made smooth replacement rollers for that tool
if the diameter is 4 then the radius is 2 (normally) 8:20. the ring won’t fit because your maths was incorrect. 2x 3.14 = 6.28 x 2 (assuming the radius is 2) so total length required is 12.26. but looking at the the tube I would say it’s 4” radius therefore the maths should be 2x 3.14 = 6.28 x 4 = 25.12” I have one of these and used it successfully for all sorts of rolling work on mild steel and non ferrous materials. It’s best to demonstrate something once you have given it a really test to give fair results. Removing the knurling was a mistake which is why the metal will not stay aligned while rolling. The knurling marks simply polish out in my experience.
You know, if you look at the roller axles carefully oj the video. onei can see that the axles are nor entirely parallel. A three-place end-cap will keep the axles aligned and also keep the steel flat from slipping out. In the very first piece you shaped, you could visually see the taper forming -- look at your own video.
I honestly think it's just a matter of tool quality. The problem is the 3rd adjustable roller you can see how it will twist when under pressure. I am fairly certain that if that would remain true it wouldn't be a problem. There's plenty of other companies out there that make ring rollers. But I think I'm probably just going to opt for a slip roller someday
@@steelforestweldingandforge ok here is an opinion/question for the price of the unit being less then 100 do you think its worth the money its being sold for and quality of it ??
@@clterry07 Sorry for the late reply. No honestly I don't. If this was going to be a visible part of my product I would be embarrassed to sell it to someone. And with the time that it takes to clean up and fine tune these rings, I honestly think it would be faster to hand forge them.
Ooof. Prolonged sustained use with material like that? No, I'm quite certain it would break. If for only a few bends for maybe one job? You could probably push your luck. But I wouldn't recommend it. What are you trying to do with the 3 eights rebar? I may be able to recommend an alternative.
Its slipping out because you ground the knurls off ! The knurl keeps it on straight track....there,s 2 reasons for the knurl you, may have ruined it now 👎🤔🤨
Not surprised it’s slipping out considering you ground off the grip. That’s also why it twisted. Moral of the story is don’t grind off the grip because they were there for a reason.
Am I the only one that doesn’t believe that pipe is 4” in diameter. There’s no way. Either he has some really tiny hands or the camera is all sorts of jacked up. Haha either way great video.
It it wants to slip out because of the damn third wheel bends all over the place LOL because it's a piece of shit stop buying shit from harbor freight problem solved
All right boys and girls lets all make the cat sound, very good boys and girls now how many fingers do we have on our hands - wrong CoyHunter37 we do not have 8 fingers we have 10. Very good boys and girls do we know what stranger danger means - - -
When ever I see one of these vids about this roller , I suggest taking the rollers off and turning them around so that the shoulder is on the outside and that eliminates the work piece " walking " out to the side ... There is a hex head bolt in the way , but I simply remove that and put a round hear bolt in its place ... Mine has worked good for years ...
Ok, I definitely see your logic there. Personally I think I would still have the same issue. The entire unit as a whole just doesn't seem rigid enough. But I wouldn't be willing to say that with 100% certain until I tried what you suggested.
The reason its coming out of the rollers and twisted is you have filled the rollers wirh a taper on them, a peace of aluminium each side, much like soft jaws in a vice works fine
Thats what I was thinking. Or possibly play in the shaft
I've purchased a similar Ring Roller. The rolling wheels have a ridge on the outside face keeping the flat stock in perfect alignment. Must have been upgraded since no wobbles, no twists, ends meet up perfectly. It does however leave the last inch or so with no bend similar to your outfit.. Filing off the knurl on those wheels might be a good idea if your working with a finished metal like Copper, Brass or Stainless.
Thank you for this video! Is perfectly demonstrates an exact task I have at hand, and how poor the end result couold be after having to modify the tool beyond ability to return it.
Glad I could help.
A couple folks noted the wobbly wheel on the bottom next to the knob as the problem. I think taking off the knurl also made the stock want to wander out of alignment. Perhaps not going back and forth, but changing it end for end after each pass through would keep it straight, or determine why that one roller is so wobbly. But your video did answer a few question I had, where I intended to machine grooves in the rollers to conform to a particular shape, preformed tubular straight metal I wanted to bend into curves.
I bought a re badged variant of this roller, i like it, The knurl marks i get are only mill scale deep i found,I'm yet to produce a ring as bad as the one you show with it.
I never adjust it while the materials in there but use it more like a pinch roller.
I like the video. It looks like the one of the rollers in wobbling (9 minutes is a good angle to see it). That may be why it's making it twisted and why it's not a consistent twist that's being made.
I came to the same conclusion myself. I knew what I was in for when I bought a cheap tool, but I didn't think it would be this bad.
Maybe you need to buy one with some knurling cut into the rollers. That might keep your metal from shifting around. 🤔
The tooling marks left behind by the knurling is not acceptable for the high quality parts and products I strive to provide.
Man I just set mine up and made a 5inch ring out of 1 1/2 wide by 1/8 and it came out beautiful ,now grant I only keep rolling it in one direction but it worked dam good for the snowblower chute I'm making
I'm glad it worked for you. And thank you for your opinion. It will help people decide whether or not this product is right for them.
He modified his Roller and that's why it didn't perform to his expectations. It rolls perfect every time for me. I'm rolling 10" metal planters. Next time, I think it would be easier to maybe put a cloth like microfiber on it so the knurl marks don't show, instead of ruining your new machine!!
@@jillybird4324 show me
Having used a proper vintage roller I can assure you that the way you 'feed' the roller will determine the final outcome, pulling the material to counter the twist is normal. Buying the bigger roller with adjustment both ends will help greatly as it counters the tendency of the wheels to splay apart.
I just ordered one for my shop but I'll only use it to make rings out of copper or brass rod/bars which is way under the "claimed" limits of this tool. after all it is a metal fabricating tool which involves a lot of hand shaping, twisting , fiddling with the workpiece to submit it to take the final shape.
It forms rings of stainless tubing without a hitch.
I just bought this tool but it only goes as far as 3inch circle angle
Is there any way to get the angle of 2.5 inch circle using this tool?
If using solely the tool, most likely no. However, since you will have the ring already rolled to a close dimension. All that you will need to do is bend your ring by hand. It should maintain a decent shape. At the same time, however, that is a very very small circle. So it probably won't be easy. Good luck, and thank you for watching.
Woof, wish I'd watched before I bought D-=
Giving this a shot with a few different sized and materials of round-stock. Honestly I'm just hoping it lets me get some interesting loops that I can use for making dream-catcher type art.
Will report back if it proves useful. Thanks for the review and demo!
@jessemozingo1279 There seem to be mixed opinions about it. I think for rolling round stock it would work pretty well. But for flat stock it just didn't deliver the results I need.
I’m wondering if removing the knurl was part of the problem with it twisting.
Of course it was! It wasn't doing that prior to him sanding them off. (2:27)
Put an 80mm by 6mm length of flat stock with 2 holes drilled, the distance between roller 1 and 3, the bottom rollers, as long as the flat stock is bigger than the diameter of rollers 1 and 3 and with 8 to 10mm either side of the rollers, so it acts as an outside raised edge.Then extend the shafts in rollers 1 and 3 taking account of the extra length needed to hold the length of flat stock on the outside edge of the rollers. This now acts as a retaining edge meaning although your length of stock may wander, the furthest it will go is the outside edge and if you place it there initially, then it'll roll flat stock always straight, and if it wanders, then itll just go to the edge and then self correct its curve in the forward and back turning plane. The round stock to bend will automatically slide on rounded portion in the roller. Then at least when you flatten the knurled edges, you've solved the random sliding from right to left as you pass flat stock through
Will this bend 1/2” rebar?
No, definitely not. 1/2" is in the realm of plate fabrication and definitely requires heavy duty machines if you want to bend them cold.
I see the roller that is attached to the tension adjuster flexes a bit. That is the reason the ends didn’t line up
yes
By altering the tool you've voided any warranty or returns on it depending on how nice your supplier is I'd doubt a return is possible, tool wheels are hardened to some degree, I'd have made or have made smooth replacement rollers for that tool
was it slipping out before you took down the knurling?
No. It wasn't
if the diameter is 4 then the radius is 2 (normally) 8:20. the ring won’t fit because your maths was incorrect. 2x 3.14 = 6.28 x 2 (assuming the radius is 2) so total length required is 12.26. but looking at the the tube I would say it’s 4” radius therefore the maths should be 2x 3.14 = 6.28 x 4 = 25.12”
I have one of these and used it successfully for all sorts of rolling work on mild steel and non ferrous materials. It’s best to demonstrate something once you have given it a really test to give fair results. Removing the knurling was a mistake which is why the metal will not stay aligned while rolling. The knurling marks simply polish out in my experience.
You know, if you look at the roller axles carefully oj the video. onei can see that the axles are nor entirely parallel. A three-place end-cap will keep the axles aligned and also keep the steel flat from slipping out. In the very first piece you shaped, you could visually see the taper forming -- look at your own video.
yes, I noticed that as well.
Super helpful, thanks for taking the time to make this video.
You're very welcome!
Great instructional video!
Thank you. Happy to hear you enjoyed it.
I have one of these and have exactly the same problems with twist and surfacing. Not sure of the solution.
I honestly think it's just a matter of tool quality. The problem is the 3rd adjustable roller you can see how it will twist when under pressure. I am fairly certain that if that would remain true it wouldn't be a problem. There's plenty of other companies out there that make ring rollers. But I think I'm probably just going to opt for a slip roller someday
So after grinding down the rollers you're contemplating returning it?.....
I feel bad for whoever buys it on the "AS IS table"
You usually don't suspect the previous owner took a belt sander to it.
@@1978garfield Yeah I'm one of those who gets as-is-ed
What is the next best tool. I need to do a inside radius of 55mm (2-1/8”)?
what is your material and how thick is it?
thanks for doing this video ...picking up one of these tomorrow
glad I could help!
@@steelforestweldingandforge ok here is an opinion/question for the price of the unit being less then 100 do you think its worth the money its being sold for and quality of it ??
@@clterry07 Sorry for the late reply. No honestly I don't. If this was going to be a visible part of my product I would be embarrassed to sell it to someone. And with the time that it takes to clean up and fine tune these rings, I honestly think it would be faster to hand forge them.
Would be nice if you had links to where to buy the products you are reviewing.
Great idea! I'll be sure to do that from here forward!
i know it says .25" max diameter but do you think i could fit 3/8 rebar into it?
Ooof. Prolonged sustained use with material like that? No, I'm quite certain it would break. If for only a few bends for maybe one job? You could probably push your luck. But I wouldn't recommend it. What are you trying to do with the 3 eights rebar? I may be able to recommend an alternative.
@@steelforestweldingandforge crab traps.
@@christianfilloux You might get lucky but I still think you're probably pushing that roller to its breaking point
@@steelforestweldingandforge i just bought a cheap flux core welder and will attempt to build one instead
@@christianfilloux awesome! Send us a video of your trap when it's done!
Howabout 10'lengths of rebar to make 4' firewood rings?
How thick is this rebar?
do you have a ring roller that you would recommend? I just joined your channel and have not had time yet to go thru your videos
Thank you for joining. No sorry, I do not. If I do buy a ring roller in the future it will probably be a slip roller.
Ok, thanks. Looking forward to learning!
the only problem you may have is you've modified the rollers!
yeah, had to though, they didn't function.
Its slipping out because you ground the knurls off ! The knurl keeps it on straight track....there,s 2 reasons for the knurl you, may have ruined it now 👎🤔🤨
I explain why I did this in the video.
Where did you get that steel cylinder?
scrap tubing from my prior employer
removing the knurling has affected the alignment hence the slipping when you roll
It was slipping before as well.
It would be cool to modify this thing to roll angle iron
ooof, that's a tall order. Angle iron is very rigid. I can almost guarantee this roller would break.
the problem is not the tool but the operator, to keep the twist out, alternate the edges that face the tool,
Show me
You messed up the rollers, one tip I have is to use a sewing tape measure to measure a round pipe
No, the rollers were messing my parts up.
Cool !!!
Part of this tool is made of plastic. Make the plastic pieces out of steel. That may help.
Also you can’t return something you damaged
Not surprised it’s slipping out considering you ground off the grip. That’s also why it twisted. Moral of the story is don’t grind off the grip because they were there for a reason.
They were slipping at the beginner the video as well. Tool modification is very common in the professional setting.
There steel is alot better and harder. I tried to turn down a heavy 3/4" dr socket with my old lathe and remove .125" good enough!
If you just keep the piece running through straight you wouldn’t have that problem.. there are mods to help
Do u live in toas nm
No, I live in the Madison, WI area.
Am I the only one that doesn’t believe that pipe is 4” in diameter. There’s no way. Either he has some really tiny hands or the camera is all sorts of jacked up. Haha either way great video.
Watch the vid again.....he did say 4" dia but corrected it to 4 " radius pretty fast....
I'd say the mods were a fail. No die marks but the product won't stay in anymore and twisted.
I agree 100%. Simply not the right tool for my needs.
Should have left the knurling alone
Knurling was causing issues, tool modifications and tweaks are very common in the professional world.
Your work is falling out because you took the knurling off 😂
nice review but your math scares me
Ruined the machine by filing.
It it wants to slip out because of the damn third wheel bends all over the place LOL because it's a piece of shit stop buying shit from harbor freight problem solved
yes, I'm aware. You get what you pay for. Some items from harbor freight are decent. Some are trash.
Operator error.
All right boys and girls lets all make the cat sound, very good boys and girls now how many fingers do we have on our hands - wrong CoyHunter37 we do not have 8 fingers we have 10. Very good boys and girls do we know what stranger danger means - - -
......Do you need some help? Should I call someone for you?
@@steelforestweldingandforge You're the best can you send us some cake and ice cream please
@@sasquachbigfoot9070 😂
Tooooooooo,much talking...
Noted.